The Oregon daily journal., June 20, 1903, Page 5, Image 5

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TOE : OKEGOy DAILY - jQUKyAL; ;rOKTLAyDt SATTTItDAY EVENING; JUXE 20. 1903.-
I r- ,-
SIMPLE
FROCKS
may be corny
Some Plain Garments Are of
Greater . Value Than Those
With Many frills and Furbe
lows.-
Lace and Ooenwork Is in Much
Demand This Season in the
Making of the Well Gowned
Woman.
Under the head of "lropl frocks"
re Included many of the most costly
owns in the fashionable woman ward
rob, the term almple being apparently
only used because the gowns are not
quite so elaborate In effect and the
material of which they are composed
Is of a more Inexpensive quality, but
the wary woman always avoids the
"simple little frock" when there Is any
necessity for economy, no matter how
simple it may seem to be. r
, This season there Is a erase for shep
herd plaid checks and plaids In all
colore, but especially black and white
of wash material, cloth or silk foulard.
or taffeta, and many simple frockr
re made in the shepherd s, plaid, snd
really are what they pretend to be, for
there Is no over elaboration ' of trim
ming ".. and.lhe design la'Jil ways, oir J
plain lines as possible. . Gowns with
waists, Instead of skirts and coats, to
be worn with shirt-waists, are most
charming in their black and white check
patterns. A dainty little frock has the
skirt with marty lines of narrow tucks
around the sides and back; but the
front breadth la left plain. The, waist
la In fine tucks to match the skirt, but
with a broad, plain band down the
ront. Bias bands of pale blue taffeta
trim (he waist, each band finished at
etther edge with narrow wMte and black
tJJ. braid, and the bands so put on as to
, rive almost the appearance of a pointed
yoke, or cape collar.
In black and white check wool ma
. terlal Is a costume, as shown In Ulus
tratlonr which has many novel features
about It and "which can be copied In
silk or linen to look well. Arranging
th .material .so that aome of lhe checks
, or plaids give the effect of qelng on the
bias often makes a gown look much
smarter than when an elaborate put-
tern of braiding Is used. Another sim
pie or effective trimming Is very nar
row pipings of white or black to out
line the plaits, whether fide or box
plaits are chosen as being smartest
Another odd style of trimming Is seen
In the straps of black and white silk
or satin, very narrow and on the bins.
o arranged as to look like loops for
the fancy black and white button that
hold down the plaits at the top of the
skirt. Still another design Is the one
which Is In bias tucks over the entire
Kowp, both waist -aid skirt, and with
only deep luce collar and cuffs to break
the monotony of the black and white.
Such gowns as these are to be had at a
wide range of prices, but none of them
can be called really cheap unless they
Can be found (ready made.
All black gowns made up over white
linings form an excellent opportunity
to show off fine lace, or openwork em
broidery, for the fad is to have the em
broidery put on the white linings; panels
of white are seen around the foot of the
Skirt, the skirt slashed to show the
. white, but the edges held together as
ft band of lace or ornaments of black
passementerie or ornaments on the lace.
Made on simple lines, in so far tha-t
the lines are long and unbroken, is a
most costly gown of embroidered orepe
0e chine, the embroidery done In heavi
est silk, with large eyelet holes," through
which shows the white lining. Large
flowers of embroidered chiffon are also
ftppllqued on the crepo de chine, which
Is then cut away underneath, again
showing the lining through the chiffon
bower. Bands of Jet embroidered lace
re also used In this style of gown,
end openwork Jet ornaments are often
put on instead of lace. Fringe is also
used with this style of trimming, and
In different widths. If the skirt is cut
n overskirt design, as are so many,
hen there I a deep silk fringe which
t falls over the ruffle of point d'esprit
r emhroldered crepe de chine that fin
ish the white silk underskirt. It Is
not usual to have any contrasts of color
n such a gown, but if the all-black
and white are unbecoming, then some,
rnrlous end striking: contrast of orange,
Shaded green, pink or mauve in changea
ble taffeta Is to be seen in the belt of
some odd-shaped bow is In the front
of the waist, never on the skirt. That
Is allowed to remain" all black or black
and white.
There is nothing more charming for
summer than full white gowns, no mat-
ter what may be the material, and yet
tho thin transparent fabrics seem the
Woft guitabfc' fbrwarih wwiiner. Wtiii1
muslin frocks trimmed with lace are
Great tern vail iSli
On Sept
our present
1st we move to 291 Morrison St.;.
stock must be sold out at once:
come early and get the bargains.
All our new up-to-date goods at 25 per cent
reduction; all sizes and widths. See windows
for big values.
1,200 pairs
LADIES' OXFORDS
PAIR
Odds and Ends.
2,135 pairs
Ladies Lace SHOES
me
PAIR
Tan and Black.
3,560 pairs
Men's Lace or Congress
75c
PAIR
Broken Lots.
4,185 pairs
MEN'S LACE SHOES
11
O
PAIR
Tan and Black.
At
WOBXJ ft KIITOBTOV.
The Empire, Starting Monday.
CHILDREN ON THE
THEATRICAL STAGE
Henry Irving Says , They Are
Happy and Healthy and
Morally Safe,
this season the daintiest things Imagina
ble, and under the head of muslin are
many materials In the batiste and grass
cloth order. SHk mull Is also dainty
snd looks well trimmed with lace; In
deed, there seems to be no end to 'the
amount of lace that can be used on a
white muslin frock made In the pres
ent styles. All the new waists are
made without collars, but rather low
In the' neck, but apart from that, and
tha difference in sleeves, are quite on
the lines of last year's fashions. But,
then, a white muslin frock Is supposed
to remain In style for two or three
seasons at least. All lace-trlmmed
frocks have the material cut away un
derneath, and this necessitates a dainty
underskirt, but lawn Is quite as smart
as silk for this purpose and- really
looks lighter and cooler, but there must
a many flounces or ruffles edged with
ee on the underskirt to hold out the
gown.
ENGLISHMAN'S PBOFHECT.
The late Sir Walter Besant In his his
tory of London quotes the followinftj-es
markable, prophecy' made by an English
man, Col. George Hanger, In 1798:
"Should I live." wrote, "to a good
old age I am confident that I shall hear
of the northern and southern powers of
'America waging war with each other,
when one party i will solicit assistance
from France, the other from Great
Britain. 1
"It will then depend on the judg
ment of those men who at that period
may be at the head of the French and
British councils whether or not they
will interfere In American disputes. In
my humble opinion it would be better
for both countries to let them settle
the matter, among themselves.
"I will be so bold as to offer another
opinion:. We should give up Canada
and Nova Scotia to the Americans, pro
vided we could, make this sacrifice the"
foundation of an alliance offensive and
defensive with the .United States. Then
we never should be obliged to send the
i prime of the British Army to die In the
West Indian Inlands.' '
' .' "I. anxiously hope and trust that I
hall live- to see the day when an ah
. I lance, offensive and defensive, will b$
formed between the two countries, as
Great. Britain and America . may to
' gether defy. thvjunlted,ower of teIU
Europe. ,
8ir Henry Irving has given utterance
to some sensible and pertinent opinions
concerning the employment of children
on the stage. In 1894 the British Par
liament passed a law. stlimar to the one
In force In this country, making the
employing of children on the stage de
pendent on the obtaining of a license,
granted by the courts on receiving suf
ficient proof that the child Is In good
health. The law has proved satisfactory
to all concerned, but recently some eager
reformer Introduced a bill In the House
of Commons forbidding the .employing
of children "in any occupation between
the hours of 9 o'clock In the evening
and S o'clock In the morning." The
theatrical managers of London, seeing
he passage of such a bill meant the
banishment of all children from the
stage, appealed to the Standing Com
mittee on Trade, to whom the bill was
referred, and asked that amendments
be made so that the provisions of the
existing act might be retained. The com
mittee rejected this appeal and reported
the bill favorably to the House of Com
mons, where it will De discussed onu
put? to vote.
Tho theatre managers of London held
a meeting on May 15 at Drury Lane
Theatre to protest agalnst.the passage
of the new bill; Sir HeniM Irving pre
sided, and In the course of the meeting
delivered an nddress which contained
among other forcible statements, the
following:
Not. Monstrous.
"I see that Mr. W. T? Russell said It
was monstrous that children of 7 and 8
years should appear on the stage for the
amusement of the public. What Is really
monstrous it that a rooted -hostility to
t tygjjhe'atre and a grosw Ignorance of
so cheerful, so beneficially earned by the
small breadwinners. Against such blun
dering legislation we enter an emphatic
protest. It will do no manner of good
to the children; It cannot give them any
opportunities of education they do not
already possess. So far from securing
to them a measure of comfort and hap
piness it will destroy both, and Instead
of protecting their tender age against
hardships, It will deprive many of them
of the only friends they have In the
world. To such children the theatre
Is truly a home, a school and a benevo
lent institution all In one, and the meas
ure which deprives It of that character
will certainly be the most egregious and
callous piece of folly that ever called
Itself an act of Parliament.
A Fine Lot of 1,490 Pairs
If rAlK
1
Ladies' and Men's Shoes, values to $4.00.
Sale Begins
Monday at 1 p. m.
THE ART OF JOLLYING
It ought to be called "The Divine Art
of Jollying."
There are all. kinds of Jolliers and they
all perform a useful work. Men do
their best when they are being Jollied
along. The Jollier does service to hu
manity every time he Jollies.
Of all the Jolliers the doctor is easily
the mostsuccessful. Jollying Is part of
his business. He Jollies sick people
well.
There are physicians who declare that
hypnotism is no Inconsiderable part of a
doctor's stock In trade. The first duty
of a physician is to make his patient be
lieve that he Is getting well. Then he
gets well.
The learned gentlemen may call this
hypnotism If they please. I prefer to
call It Jollying.
AN IRISHMAN'S MISTAKE
lleatrlcaTTonditfons should" be permitted
to distort the Judgment , of , a Parlia
mentary committee. We; who are fa
miliar with those conditions, know that
a theatre bears no resemblance to a
factory. Child life In a theatre Is not
child labor. In a theatre children are
not sweated; they are petted. Life for
them Is both an education and a recrea
tion. To Mr. Russell it is a shocking
thing for a child of 7 to be a fairy In
Shakespeare; but the child of 7 would
not exchange that dream of Joy for
all the gloomy pleasures that appeal to
Mr. Russell.
"Moreover, to many a child that fairy
land Is the beginning of a professional
career. I need not . give to you the
names of all the grfat artists who have
been born on the stage, cradled on the
stage, who shocked the-T. W. Russells
of an earlier day by presenting to a
delighted public the spectacle of lrre
sponslole childhood tripping gayly On
the boards. Ask Marie Wilton. Madge
Robertson and Ellen Terry whether they
had a terrible time during their Infant
apprenticeship wheJrtier they yearned
. T . ,11... . . , , .1 1. ...... , n
ior a reraeus iik mi. ojuhuiiiubi i
ave these like Andromedas from a
dragon of a stagemanager!
What Great Artiste Say.
These great artists will tell you that
Jhey trace back to their earliest years
the Impressions wnicn nave Deen most
valuable to their artistic development.
Not that this alone would not be a suf
ficient argument for the employment of
children in theatres if that employment
Interfered in any degree with their gen
eral education if it stunted their physi
cal growth, if it cast the gloom of un
congenial and unhealthy toll upon their
young souls.
"But everybody who has had any
knowledge of the theatre, and whose
mind Is free from canl and intolerance
knows that the employment of children
produces none of thes dire reaults. The
bill before Parliament gnoree the real
issue; it proceeds upon. the assumption
that a' child of 7 or 8 suffers positive
harm from wort In a theatre, whereas
any experience shows the reverse to be
the truth. And if, for the sake of a cast
iron uniformity, thlssabsurd interdict
la put tipon sUch- employment," . a large
number of poor little .children-" will "be
cut off from the. chief Jdy of their lives
itreet. and many a humble home will be
Lord Snook' regiment wai ordered to
India; but before he went he gave
orders to a local builder to erect a wall
around a certain ruined castle on his
Irish estate, which was being picked to
pieces by excursionists.
Then he went to India, feeling that,
whatever happened, his ruin at least was
secure.
, After long years he returned, and lo,
the wall stood as he had ordered it, but
the historic castle had vanished even as
"Where, oh. where is my beautiful
ruin?" he demanded of the man to whom
he had Intrusted the contract.
"What!" cried that worthy, "do ye
mane that tumbled-down shanty that
used to be here? Sure, I pulled it down
and built the wall wid the bricks."
MAMS S1HIOE C
253 MORRISON ST.,
Near THIRD
THE SHEPERDESS
AND OTHER HATS
May Be It Is Not the Hat That
Makes the Girl, but She
Knows What She Wants Just
the Same,
Picture Flowers and Ostrich
Plumes Are the Favorite
Trimmings The All-White"
Hat With a I ouch ot Color,
Perhaps It Is not the hat that makes
the girl, but the summer girl knows ttfat
she owes much to her hat. The fashion
able girl of today requires a whole col
lection of hats for her summer cam
paign. Her hats must harmonize with
her gowns and suit the occasion. The
lnannroDrlata.Jiat, the hat which . Ja out
COWARDLY BRAVE MEN
It is related of a Missouri engineer at
Atchison that he does not hesitate to
drive his machine at full speed through
the blackest storm at night with wash
outs all around him, but that he Is afraid
to go home alone In the dark. If some
one is not at the round house to go with
him Tio sits there till daylight. It Is
the old story of every man having his
own peculiar fears. Thero Is in Topeka
a doctor who will cut a man to pieces
ana smile the while. He Is an old sol
dier and often faced the cannon's mouth.
But he will betray the most abject ter
ror if one of the harmless little elm
tree worms happens to drop, on hs per
son..
'rr f Impoverished fey the lota of the salaries
A LESSON IN PUNCTUATION
A Philadelphia school girl said to her
father the other night:
f "Daddy, I've got a sentence I'd like
to have you punctuate. You know
something about punctuation, don't
you?" v i
"Yes, a little," said her cautious par
ent, as he 4kbk the slip of paper she
handed him.
This Is what he read:.
"A $5 bill flew around the corner."
He studied it carefully and finally
said:
"Well, I'd simply put a period after
it, like this.:'
"I wouldn't" said the high school girl.
Id make a dash after it. .
rOTTBX ZHTO SZXTXOB.
Queen of Xlver Boats Opens Season
Saturday, fun 07.
Those who are preparing to spend the
season at North Beach or make a trip
down the Columbia will be Interested in
Knowing that the T. J. Potter, the pop
ular rlver steamer, makes her first trip
Saturday, Jnne 27. 1 For particulars ask
at O. R. A JN. city ticket office. Third
and Washington streets.
place at a certain function, plainly " Wis
the story that us wearer is not xne
fashionable young woman that she pre
tends to be.
Though she must fliave In her collec
tion of hats for the vacation time wear
many which are of the tailor-made,
readv-to-wear sort, suitable to wear
with her shirt-waist suits and her ath
letic costumes, yet it is the picture hat
she will have In the greatest variety.
It Is the picture hat she will wear be
fore she leaves town, driving in the
park In the afternoon, and at the garden
party In tho evening, and later when sho
has left the hot town behind her and is
In; the country, at the sea or In tho
mountains it is the big, dashing picture
hat she will wear when ph wishes to
lookj her most effective.
In these picture hats flowers and os
trich plumes are the favorite trimmings.
The Cavalier, Gainsborough and th3
Sheperdess Bhapes are all favorite mod
els. The all-white hat, with Just a
touch of color under the brim. Is especi
ally in vogue. Many of these hats show
the conspicuously high crown and one
long, sweeping ostrich plume as their
onlv trimming. It Is the way tnis os
trlch plume is arranged that gives the
hai its distinctive toucn or siyie. unce
unon a time there was but little varia
tlon In the way a feather trimmed a hat,
while today it almost seems as if no two
feathers were arranged alike
Many of tho picture hats show very
effective underbrlm trimmings. Some
times the brim, is a mass of Tolas oc
foamv tulle, appllqued with lace designs,
which not infrequently are hand
nainted. and then again a wreath of
flowers may trim the tulle. For ex
ample, a hat of faint sea green mallne
recently lmportea was inmmea wun
one sweeping sea, green ostrich plume
The front' of the flaring brim was
mass of he green tulle, while tucked
in close to the hair at the left side was
a wreath of pink roses nilea in wun
blue forget-me-nots. -The effect was
odd and decidedly pretty. The black
hat which fits In close to the hair at
the back but flares in a pronounced way
in v front Is a favorite model. " The
crown is either covered by a cluster of
ostrich tfp orby a mass of full btown
silk petaled roses.- A new Idea Is to
have coming out from the side' of the
crown a full feathery ialgref".
Another fashionable nUllnery fancy
Is to trim one of the large picture
shapes with two kinds of flowers. An
odd fashion Is to introduce a touch of
black In a very light picture hat, by tho
flowers. A white chip picture hat
which shows the brim drooping in front
but flaring well at the left side is
trimmed with pink roses straight acros.4
the hat and followed in the same line
as the roses are black volvet daisies
This hat Is one of the most striking
models of the season. Sometimes
touch of black Is Introduced by merely
one big black rose or by a small black
ostrich tip, which is quite as apt to be
Introduced in a hat of white roses and
green leaves as In a hat of white lace
and tulle.
Mauve Is a fashionable shade in milli
nery Just now and Is the successor of
red, which was so much the inodo
throughout the spring. With the ma
jority of these hats this year the hair
Is dressed low on the neck, and many of
the smart girls of fashion are wearing
the old-fashioned hair net .
The summer girl Is still buying gowns,
and an idea of hers Just now is to have
her hat In some way show that It was
made to be worn with the gown she
wishes to wear It with. It Is not neces
sary that It should exactly match the
frock, but that merely there should be
something In the hat which Is reflected
In the dress. A new gown of pongee
trimmed with ecru Irish crochet lace is
worn with a hat trimmed with the same
WThlaafUouIaXvCava-,! of . pais
blue pongee. Kach gore of the skirt is
Outlined with black embroidered French
knots. The dainty lace trimmed
bodice has a deep pale blue sIlK
girdle, which tends to emphasise
the new figure, the French curve.
which all the girls are so anxious
to have this season. The French curvo
is accomplished by a simple little appli
ance which, has a really miraculons way
of adding length to the waist line and
making the gown hang as It should. An
other feature of this waist is the pretty
wav lrt which pale blue satin liberty
ribbon Is threaded through the lace, be-
ng knotted here and there and ending
m front Of the two dangling ends, lhe
French knots which trim the skirts of
this gown are also used to decorate the
Ittle turnover collar and to trim me
cuff.
Lace mlts are the proper thing to
wear with a frock of this sort, and the
hat is of ecru Irish lace and baby blue
tulle. It is a becoming shape with a
low. broad crown and the brim flaring,
Off the face. Under the brim and tucked
close to the hair nt the left side is :i
bunch of tiny rosebuds, which look at
If the were tied to the hat- with pale
blue ribbons.
ire
MADE BY THE
BEST WORKMEN
FROM THE
BEST MATERIAL
With the
BEST MACHINERY
WXIXIAMS OH "AXTTOS."
"Well, suh." said Brother Williams,
"dls yer automobyou business is gettin'
'ter be do ruination rr de country! I
never see de like sence tie day I raise en
bo'n. Folks dat a .few years back wus
satisfied ter go ter town ifi a ox-cart, en
wouldn't so much ex look at a railroad
train. Is now runnin' races ter see who'll
striko de hereafter fust In a automob
you: Hit s come tor de pass aai w en a
man falls out wid his mother-in-law ho
makes her a present er one er dem. en de
nex' thing she knows, she dunno nuthtn'!
En w'en Mi po' relations comes to spend
de summer wid him, all he got to do Is
give "em one ride, en they don't Come
back no mo" fer Christmas: Hit's my
opinion dat de automobyou Is doin' mo'
ter thin out de human race dan all de
rheumatism en doctors In de country."
HOT LAKE,
FleiscKner, Mayer-
..teonle cnTitemplatlng a visit to. Hot
Lake shoul 1 -notify the management at
least one day in advance, ' The new bath-
nonee Is completed.' Rates 111.50 to
$1S 50. Including batha. - -
mo.
MAKERS
i 1 l n
MS I -