i. J.,'..', '.. : V.;,.; i '....,... n ". r?"' TOE OKEGOX DAILT JOlinXAL, V POItTLANfl. i SATURDAY! EVENING MAT 30, : 1903i " .-r TD TDTTT3Vli71 fl A ti T v. ll H IT) . ,Tm T f p I J I JW I ,.f I I ilr- LI s A k ' ' II li If in! .1 ':.iy ;-. Wi III J LA i V V A V 7 v . . i 1 - 1 T "i ' '-:-' - : v,-; look her daughter to the family ph dun. Tlu girl wan suffering from what to known hh "general lowness." There wan nothing munh the mattei with her. but she was pale And listless, iintl did not rare about eating or doing iinyt hlng. The doctor, after due conHiilt.it Ion. prescribed fm her a. glass of claret A PERFECT FORM ... ml- FOR EVERY WOMAN The perfertly formed woman Is, hap pily, becoming more and mote rnmmuii. You may see her In our street walklnfr. In larrlaRen, gonvnert gorgeously, and In (ho Fhops behind the counters aa wi ll ;ix before tlinm. But she should, become more common still. I hold that every woman can ap- , pear at least to have the requisites; of a perfect figure, says the president of the I ssmakcrs- Association of America. Tijtse requisites may be briefly sum msrlaod ns a chest broad and deep, a buht fv1! and low. a stomach flat and ii n noticeable, a back straight autl curved slightly t the'walst. In a well-formed worrtnn tntue things are 'natural, or at least they hcome natural as she learns how to wallt how to hold herself and how to corset fcerself. An AnaljriU by anSxpart of Scanty. r Of course, sorr. women, endowed with sensible mothers, lrn to do these tilings hi their childhood, t'hey are taught to walk, to hold their heJs up and their shoulders back. They Ir.rn almost in tuitively to step on the balls of their fet Instead of on the heels, and tn breathe deeply, so that their diaphragms become strong and capable of expand ing to the fullest extent. However, we havet among us many women who Wave learned how to hoW themselves, and by the. force of their example they arc gathering recruits day by day. until, an I said at the beginning of this article, the perfectly formed wo man Is becoming more and more com mon. But she shdnld be universal. Xrtrj Woman Today Should Kavt an Attractive Flg-ara, Today every woman may have a good figure If only she buys the right corset and learns how to put It on properly. Teople are frequently surprised to hear me make this assertion, but I have so often proved It true that I shall continue to make it with absolute faith. When 1 am asked to remedy a bad fig ure I begin by advising the straight front corset, but I warn my customer that that Is only the beginning. What she can buy for 13 or more or less will furnish her with only the foundation of wlmt I really, call her future succcsa. The rest of It she must work for. I can leave her cheH free with a per fect fitting corset: I can raise her stom ech so that It will apparently disap pear; I can lace her corset so that It will be loose over the diaphragm and tight at the waist.' but all this Is only half the battle that must be waged to gnln a perfect figure. Hav ing purchased the right corsM. she should learn how to wnlk and stand In It; she should try to lengthen her lines by drawing herself up out of It at the top; she should be careful never to allow herself to droop; she should alwayp hold her stomach and eh(4st up. The most perfect straight-front onrfcet In the world will not do these things for a woman. It will only make them pos sible for her as the old-fashioned tight laced, curved corset made them impos sible The Cori ml it Relation to Moderj B canty. The object of the new corset has been to give her perfect freedom of the dia phragm by leaving the body from the waist up absolutely unfettered. Hut If she does not avail herself of -this free dom; It is-ff absolutory tm- wtn -possess It. For the first lime in the hls- j tory of the corset a woman may breathe i i:s deep, as long and as much as she ' pleases. She may take In all the fresh nlr ' she can hold, and what I mist earnestly I recommend to her Is to do.lt. I I fT I f" f f f g i Kxcrctse every day your breathing fJ rV Z3ll I mSLmEZ. ri ' T f" 0 Iwers. lor they will give you full, high chests. Stand on one foot and sv.itig the Oood living Is favorable to good I three times a day with her meals. The I other back and forth In order to attain THE TIMID GIRL FINDS A HUSBAND WITH EASE There Is--no lou()( abitut this the kmi who. snrioKH ami jumps on a chair at sight of a mouse because he is j-eally afraid has n long start of all other girl In the no e for the Ideal husband. She needs a protector, and Isn t afraid to admit it; the !dal bus band la, first of all. a protector. Be ing a manly man, he cannot endure a mannish woman; she appears to need no protection, and, therefore, he can't love her. The right kind of a man doesn't want 10 marry a woman wim can get off a car while It (a moving or out-maneuvre a bull In a meadow, or one who will live In a haunted house without flinch ing. Timidity Is a, virtue, when you are a woman and single Man Is like a great oak. and he wants woman to be the Ivy that clings to htm. That la right and proper. As the years go on Ivy and oak become us one. and not all the tempests In 4 lie world can sep arate them. A man loves to go out 'and play foot hall, and fight, and hunt wild beasts. He doesn't want to he tied for life to a woman who can il the same. She must be hid opposite His pleasure Is her weakness, Just as her pleasure in the aurety of his protecting strength. -When you go to the seaside and creep to the water's edge and put one toe Into the great ocean, don't ever think that a man derplses you for It. True, he may give more attention to the girl who plunges In and ewtms out .for half a mile. That's because she's an ex ception. Men like to look at "excep tions, " but they marry the women who are Just women. Probably the "excep tion" will come out of her bathing ma chine with a severe looking short skirt, a fearless expression and a great stride like a grenadier. But what Is she. In a man's eyes, to you, with' your little patent leather shoes and your frills and ribbons and trinkets. He likes to stare at her with a sort of admiration, but he wants to love you. Men are always talking of the silly things women do. of their little vani ties, and their Insatiable love of dress. Hut not because they dislike women j who do silly things and are vain. There I Is no man worth speaking of who wouldn't have his wife deck herself In bows and frills and do sjlly things sometimes. He married her because uch things were pleasant to him. Just as men do every day and always will do. ... GIRL OF 1903 BRIGHT FLOW NOW IN VOGUE merry pace In the matter of fashlonablp wedding garments. It 'may be accepted as a. fact that the gown of the past consisted almost entirely of a creation of white satin built along lines that might be said to be primly and even In no time-honored essential has fash ion worked such radical changes as In the bridal bouquet. No typical bridal blossoms now exist. It is not even nee "isnry that those used should be white. The milliners and fashion designers if twenty years ago would have stood gliast at the Idea of anything but irange blossoms, or similar symbols of mrlty and simplicity being used for " irlde's bouquet. The girl of today who inds a touch of yellow becoming orders narguerltes for her ceremonial adorn ment, or a bride may have violets or inle pink azaleas, sweet peas or any ither flowers she prefers. And where the all-white bouquet is used It Is de !red that It be as novel In charac 'er and formation, as possible. The long bouquet to lie worn tipon the m. the sectional bouquet and the hnwer bouquet are three forms to which an Infinite variety can be Im parted, according to the sort'of flowers mploycd. The gardenia, one of the j whitest and most dellclously scented, of flowesie, 'Is ,iw much In vogue In j combination with roses and azaleas. Of the shower bouquet the violet takes pre-eminence hecauKe of the flno pliability of the blossoms, and thelt iAUl llnnau Vttlft I,, I Iia full numhnr of three thousand arc required for u ' that the wedding gown be of pure white The summer, girl of 1903 will Out rival all other summer girls "of the past. Kach new gown now on display tells Its own story of novelty and charm, and though lace, wnbrolderies., shlrrlngs and many fancy' .stitches are seen In the majority of the frocks, yet each Is so' distinctive In design that in no way does If resemble the other. There is quite as mnvh a fad for deep Cream color and black this year as there Is for black and white, and one of the smartest of the summer frocks Is made of cream color ' Hnen embroidered In black and trimmed with lace Insets. A specially new feature of the gown Is that Its black embroid ery takes the form of seqTilns,' so that the gown has the effect of being flecked with sequins. Jioth the skirt and the waist are trimmed with wkte bands of oluny lace, embroidered with black French knots. A black taffeta belt and necktie aid In giving a Smart effect to the gown. The belt Is In the form of a girdle end Is finished at the back .with loop ends. The necktie Is drawn through the lace of the bodice In such a wa that It has the effect of s puff at the top with a long- end." This gown, like many another of the summer frocks. Is made with s shoulder cape. These shoulder capes vary greatly In design, some follow tha sailor collar shitpe and others look like a deep cape and have s pronounced sloping effect over the shoulders. The quaint gowns, which are a de- June bride this year promises ft) set a rl'lN Mature of the summer modes, MERRY PACE OF THE JUNE BRIDE Bridal fashions are changing, and the Fhow this sloping shoulder cape in one form or another. A picturesque gown of p.inree In its natural color combined with wide Insertions of cluny lace has the bodlct. made with a deep shoulder cape, which Is not only tucked and em severely plain. As a result fashionable i roldered w-itk white silk French knots, gowns have nearly always looked strik ingly and It mlgpt be said even pain fully alike. It Is different today, for there Is a decided Individual preference and consequent diversity of style that Is most pleasing. Precise stiff effects are no longer the vogue. The modish young woman about to be married selects her bridal robe with quite the same sang frold as if she were purchasing a summer frock of less Importance. As a rule, they are soft, graceful, airy, filmy affairs, that these June brides will wear. t White silk mull, chiffon, vftile and or gandie, with their pleasing shlrrlngs. lace Inserts and trimmings galore, take the place of satin or heavy corded white silk. Bridal robes have never been so grace fully soft and becoming as they are this year, though varying greatly in, de sign, fabric and trimmings to suit ho lirlde: However, fashions still demand shower bouquet, the drooping pendants of which shall almost touch the hem of he bouquet holder's (town us' she bears It along. It takes ."00 sprays of lily of the valley to, fashion a bouquet of requisite proportions. Double white lolets are much used. LIVING WELL BRINGS looks. Women who, live well remain young much longer than those who do not. They have brighter eyes, clearer king and. flrmei .jnuscles ... . T"" The depression of the muscles causes wrinkles, those dread enemies of beauty. Henoe every woman should eat to keep the muscles firm and full. Overeating Is not advocated, because, that Is a source of facial and bodily disfigurement. Just as gluttony Is. rela tively, a source of disease. Hut one ahould have not only a wholesome, but lso an abundant diet. If youth and .beauty sre to be retained. If girls would take more milk thotr kins would grow velvety, and resemble more the peaches-nnd-cream complex ion that every one of them would so dearly love to possess. To make per manent flesh drink milk, cream and eecoa. One of the fads of the, fashionable girl Is to take quantities of hot milk. Which she asserts produces wonderful results In maintaining and restoring a perfect skin. Hot milk, Judiciously taken, is nour ishing and stimulating. If taken at night a glasa of hot milk Is refreshing mother was somewhat deaf, but uppar- i spring and balance. Put one foot hack ttitly l.nrd all lie nr. id. and bore off her I while you keep the other In front of you daughter determined to carry out the j a a brace and tlujn balance your body prescription t the letter. Ton The balls and toes of both feet. In 10 days they were back again, and . These are simple exerclHes. but they the girl looked like a different crea- are very important to the woman who ture. She was rosy-cheeked, smiling wishes to attain a perfect figure. In fact. I have set them down as golden rub s to be given out with each straight front corset that Is sold. For years the tight curved corset con tracted the diaphragm so that the air could not descend Into the "body as deeply as nature designed, fvow, really, td( the first time In the chronicles of beauty, the lungs may be properly nour ished If women will only practice breath ing and raising the whole diaphragm out of the corset alld the picture of health The doctor congratulated himself upon the keen Insight he bad displayed III his diagnosis of the case. "I am glad to sec that your daughter 1? so much better." he said. "Yes.'' exclaimed the excited and grateful mother, "thanks to you. doc tor. She has had .lust what yon ordered. Kin- has eaten carrots three times a dty since we were here, and sometimes off loner, and once or twice uncooked -and now look at her!" Katinir at night. If Judiciously done, will improve the complexion. It Is particularly good for thin people. Although the demand made upon the system is naturally much U-r than during the waking hours, there" Is n wasting away of tissues In sleep con-si'-qib nl upon the suspension of nutri ment for main- hours. People who take a nlht supper are quite apt to do It Is no small accomplishment to fashion these ceremonial bouquets cor rectly, and give them Just the air of ;arc.lesB- f?actnes desirable, and that member of the florist's staff who has the surest instinct for bouquet building has abundant work In the weddfng sea son and Is allowed full liberty In the choosing of the Powers to be used. In a certain prominent shop a woman is entrusted with this delicate mission, a,nl she devotes much time, when off duty, to experimenting with new combina tions of flowers and new effects In for mation, anil the character of foliage that will brs show off the flowers. The swinsbnla. a small white flower mwlt like the sweet pea In shape, but having more (lusters to each stem. Is coming tnte rivalry with the better known blossoms. Expert growers are developing small flowers of little known varieties In white and the paler color on purpose to provide novelty (and dis tinction to fie bridal bouquet. And tin most exquisitely fine ferns are sought afler for ;i . green foil to the blos soms. The designer and malter of bridal tiouqiiets often glX'eS suggestions that are profitable to the patron willing to be guided by her. For Instance, if a bride of plump proportions and rosy and pus and forr Considered a necessary bane of woman's existence. To he beautiful she seemed to think she must be fetttered by bands and buttons and skirts. She use 1 to boast that she never untied her corset strings from year's end to year's end; that her waist used to measure Just the vame. no matter if she Increased in weight or not. Tin' old-fashion, d way of attaining this result was to contract the chest push it up. while the stomach fell med a little shelf The Poetry In a Modern Corset. Nowadays if a woman has an;- Idea of what's, good for her she changes her corsets as she develops, and she Is proud yf her development. It Is a fact that the women of this year have outgrown the ; cm set that was fashioned for last year. They have lengthened their lines, so ' lh;,t I liiu vfiunn'u ,nrat lc ntia ineVi u n,t For li;ilf : century scientists ami , . , - , ,, .... a quarter higher In the bust than It statisticians have agreed that the tnar- . U..,M , ,,,ft2, Thl. women rP natter In rlcj Mate Is more healthful than that ,. stoni.ichs and their backs are more of spinster-hood or 'b.trheloThnorl: Ntto"' curvel. ' The corset is made iooser be comes a student of statistics -Frederic!; low thf waist line in the back. These I,. Hoffman, writing in the .J.ondon ; measurements show that the American Spectator who ((includes that widows i V om.i :'s figure lias improved. The cor am! widowers represent the least set of 1 ! o :? Is better than that of 1!)U2 f lii-alt liv class of human helncs. because it follows her changes. A bowl of oatmeal gruel can be recommended as an excellent thing, also hot' broth, or almost any other llcht food. nd sleep-Inducing, and sleep Is the j surreptitiously, as If they were doing great aid to the preservation of youth i something which was not quite proper fid good looks. from a hvgienic point of view, and Msny people complain that they can- probably they are indulging In un not drink milk without being distressed : wholc.om.'. heavy food. by It. The reason is t lint they drink it too fast. At least four minutes should be occupied in drinking a glass of milk. Plenty of good, cool butter Is one of the most valuable of foods It is only When fat is fried and changed into fatty rds that it- becomes harmful to digestion and to the beaut v of the kin. " Sugar" Is nr-excellent food, provided ft s-piire. It Is rnstlr dickered and absorbed. ' and under certain e).-, uni stances, it niav be converted into fat Sugars one of t'he best foods for producing muscle; Indeed, it- is .tin principal.' If not the only Dm I llnfr rnnilpiiann hnft A leanlnir til- Artificial dress was for a long time j warflf, a8.,;;.,s ,. Iong Btemmed lllllcs for her altar flowers, the bouquet de signer will advise roses or small fea tured blossoms as best suited to her style. Then when the tall, stately girl comes in to decide on her bridal flowers she will lie recommended to choose gar denias, Dallas or other beauties most appropriate to her type. . UNHE-ALTHY WIDOWS The sectio ;.il bouquet fashioned In graceful profusion of separately tied and apportioned groups of flowers Is much used by brides who wish to dis tribute souvenirs- of their bouquets to their neddliii: attendants. The num ber of separate bunches that make up the whole is arranged to correspond With the number of melds in the bridal train. The -shower bouquet formed of i myriad knots of flowers tied tn with Coating - ribbons, loop upon loop, is meant to be cut Into snips and, flung broadcast among the guests, If the bride so desires, .. ...... . .. Mr. Hoffman hfrsox Jiis conclusions on of the census returns muscular activity It. is. tie-"- for.- excellent food or rather an .-idlum-l to an analysis tlie regular dw-t. in producing tr.uscl.-. 'Msnn II and 4nc of tin- moit difficult f-.rn"- of nourishment to go without. To hiiv a i bar. fair oniriiI it la absolute' v nec-ssa-v to drli;k mue'i WBter. Moderate drlnkitr. with tin tnc-ii is recommend- ii Hp.lf a fcrlass of vv.-te;- s'-oalil be tipped In the course. of r.o h mv.l pro vided, of course, that other h-'v, rajres At-e not taken at tlr- same tim--. Tlvs1: with one glassful between im-aN. or.--at, r.lght. and oi,e before br-akf.:t. . eh"ttM be taken daily. Tltft mii'-li unit nn.l r. ; ! l.lp-1,1, oned foods, are bad for. the skin ,Pste in any form, an' veal, .must be avoided.. . 'Other artlcu-s of di-t which som tlnuHf1 irlve trouble are mutton, cheese, ."touts.! and hium-is 8'ieM fi-h lobsters. ! ! And ovf teis arc somet Invs of .4i,tand made a ,-lmiiar troublesome in their rff-cts and should i came to the eonciusjgju that "bur-nclm-be- avoided. . life is i;-,orc dust rjicl i ye to ma b-s - ha;i WpA wondrrfui thing t" clear the com- -the most enw hop-some trade or the -.plexlou la an .Anion, but out of fsiccf ; most unsanitary residence." f to one's friends t?icv sre often mi) im- All these authoriticr agree that wiiil possible diet, hut carrots 'a re Jltst as i the unmarried state is bad for'b.illi . fo4 as. or better thsiV. onions. v . j sexes'. It is wors for men than U': . ' Not long ajgu ah anxious mother j women. Chnroh Fawn Shop. ruder th" eaves of Trinity Church in PorUon is a most Interesting pawn shop, which flourishes despite the fact that it is the cheapest one In tbo world, the only one conducted by a church The American b-nuty, in her search and the only one that Is run solely upon f for beauty, lias become more and more (inds that the mortality of unfettered. For Instance, slit,- adopted the slni;b- of both sces is higher thin the short skirt, and when she found that that of the married, al ail periods of ! it frequently Impeded her walk byx-llng i philanthropic basis. Four per cent, a year is its rate. Frum a tool to a Jewel, and from a bit of silver plate to a salarv. can go to the Trinity life, ex'opt in ic carp ,,f women be- ing abopt her she demanded something j chapel pan nshopTind raise money for I we-n the-ages of fifteen and f ort y-fnu r. that would h-iivo her completely free, i an emergency. This shop Is open every The mortality of widows at arcs under As a consequence of this .demand a new day but .Sunday, twia hours dally, from siiv -liv greater than that of the witrd-ib-f y ing skirt slviped liken lily has! II to 1." The shop consists'of a little in-,-:( of both sexes :;t all periods of been invented It looks very much' like j room that Is almost barrn, save' for life . an ordinary shirt, but underneath th--re small bookcase, a desk, a chair and a As between single males and females is a. band of haircloth about - sev'en settee. Miss Mitchell Is. In charge of ! is found that the highest rate, of Inches . wide 'that holds the-skirt down.lt. This shop was started, during an and nut. away from the limbs. j extremely hard winter a number of I only sp.ak of t.iis skirt to show that j years ago. when there was great suf as a woman advances toward comfort in j ferlng arnnTig PJoston's poor. It was the vintloii keeps pace with her. The new i idea of several prominent members of corset leaves her free, and whatever j Trinity ("imrch to ad vane the money small depressions it may have created I to opeu and carry on the business fmlJl invention lias filled out with ruffles and ' It was self supporting. It has. however. mortality exists anions the former at all ago--, and as between willows and wlduvera.. 'agnln. the males bavr- the worst of it. Analvsis of the census returns also shows that the death rale from con sumption is lower . for t lie married of both sexes than for the unmarried, ami draperies. that fewer married men than harhel-, .s a ors' commit suicide. have fcroc yars ago a resist ra nev?r reached this basis. It has been matter of fact, of all the women I ton years In existence. Persomr-who seen the Americans are the best I patronise It are almost invariably those rar general formed, but even they must I usuajly be i who hav e known better days. During "'! sis and pu In shape, a-nd when irregularities oc- severe .winters workmen Often procure cur they mitFt-be orsetieres. lied out by skillful I money or tlveir tools. It Is seldom that more than ten dollars has been loaned on any one object Nothing less than a .month's interest Is' accepted.. Like nil daces of the klid. It has a Marconi v-as torn In Bologna, but Florence may claim his schoolboy yea.s, and the lady wh6 taught .him to drawer full of unclaimed articles, but read lives to tell how she punished hiin the nifmher la. small compared to' that j fur being naughty at hfs lessons.' " - of other .shops-. ... .' , ' , v. '. ;; -.- . ' c !-:-- - - ..' -. . and that for a church wedding or even a large formal home wedding, high neck and long sleeves should he worn, though for less formal affairs It is equally good taste to have elbow sleeves with droop ing puff, and the bodice with a colar less neck that displays the throat. A string of pearls is generally worn with this costume, and the lower part of the arm Is covered by a white glove that reaches to the elbow. Two of the most popular trimmings of the new fluffy wedding-gown re-hce Insets and applique, and In effect the" are most bewitching. 4 gown ordered by a New York June bride is a white silk mull, over white chiffon and taffeta, and Is made with double skirt effect. It '-'-Is trimmed with antique lace, ar ranged as a garniture and edged with white silk fringe. The upper . portion, of the skirt was made with a hip yoke, outlined with rows of lace shirring and the bodice with belero effect, showed the shlrrfng and the lace with Its bor der and dainty silk fringe. " Flower-shaped Inserts form" a faTry llke trimming for a great number of the June wedding gowns. There nre airy, white chiffon robes made over white silk, scattered with full-blown roses, effective sprays of lilacs and ar tistic-looking lace orchids. Sometimes the lace flower has the effect of being caught to the filmy material by a bow knot of lace, which Is also Introduced as an Insert and. like, tho flower, has the fabric cut away beneath. , The embroidered Wedding robe is also a new fashion this season. In white silk mull, It is exquisite with an em broidered design ofwhlte silk orange blossoms, daisies or dainty sprays of forget-me-nots. The looks of a pretty girl may be made to .look anything but pretty on her wedding day if her bridal veil Is arranged In an unbecoming manner. The looks of many an otherwise beautiful young bride has been spoiled by the flat arrangement of her veil at the head To avotd this unbecoming effect, the tulle may be plaited or gathered over a small wire frame," and fastened at the side with tiny white buckles, or with any delicate white flower, orange blossoms, white violets or lilies of the valley being the ones usually preferred. The veil Itself is this year a charming accessory to the wedding robe, there being no set conventional rule to be fol lowed tn Its draping. Many brides will, of course, wear the' family heirloom veil, and it Is n pretty custom, but the bride with a bran-new veil choses tulle In stead of the heavier lace. This mate rial gives the airy, fairy touch to The costume that .Is .so nxtK'lJ..SQUgnt. after.. The velis are unusually long this year, the square effect Seemtng to be pre ferred to 'the round. They are finished with a narrow applique of. some deli cate lace, or witrTn., deep hem. The fact that most of the June brides will be married In gowns of sheer ma terial, does not mean that the white satin gown wdll not be worn at all. for this would not be true, as soft liberty satin will be the material used by many, and Is extremely fashionable. The up-to-date bride's trousseau this year costs a small fortune. Even a man can realize that without seeing the bills. It Isn't because there are so many more gowns than formerly, but because of the many expensive trim mings that are necessary to make each gown all that it should be from the standpoint of the swell young woman. The style, material and make of the golng-away gown Is In direct contrast to what. It used to be. It wmild be hard to pick out a bridal couple on five honeymoon trip If one depended upon the gown to announce It; In reality. It Is purposely designed to dleguiije this fact as much as possible. The skirt is made short enough to Just miss the ground, and tho losuimn consists of Jacket and sklrt.ls to be worn with simple blouses. ' Aii effective and smart -traveilng gown for a bride Is a sheperd's plaid, In black and white. It Is trimmed wRh silver buttons and white. havy lace at the neck and -cuffs.' Both ,the skirt and kwi t are plaite! nnd fastened at 'the walst-1 line with a patent, leather or stitched silk belt. The skit f Is a walking length, with u, three-quarter Jcpgth coat. but trimmed with a dep band of lace Insertion. ' The skirt of this particular f rock Is an excellent model to copy, as" It com bines so much that Is new and mo,dlsh. It Is made to cling closely over the hip, while Just above the knees a devp band of shirring is Introduced headed with lace Insertions. Below the shir ring the pongee hangs loose nnd full. Not only the front of the skirt but the front of the bodice Is trimmed with a stole panel of cluny -lace which Is especially becoming to the woman who Is no longer slender and willowy. That the shirred gown will be more and more the vogue as the season .ad vances is evident from the fact of the Increasing vnrfety of gowns now en display that introduce shirring In one wav nr nn'fither. i An extremely original gown Is the sblrrei -duress fmck. It goes without savin t It will only be worn by the t ill, si- nder girl, and yet is one. of the v-'-rv ivwest of the advanced mofles Though It Is princess In effect, yet the klrt end wnlst are made separately. The Fklrt is shirred from the waist-line ovfr the hips and the bodice is shirred from the waist line to lust below the bust In such e war that the line of separation Is disguised. The upper nnrt of the waist Is shirred, and the Imvp 1s shirred near the shoulder and near the elbow. This style of gown is mii d tin In mnnv mflterbus-nnr? 1s ex in-iiiplv nrettv in foulard., trimmed with narrow hands of lace insertion for morning wear It Is also effective In one of the new mercerized canvases which. .have a corded effect.. There s no longr sny doubt that the summer girt of fashion -will be pre eminently tho white girl. As nrf outing girl she will appear most frequently in suits of wh te butenrr s iinen or piqur. She will have a number of dresses nd.---white, -etwmlne. -wh-U-evMle, B))6 white crepe de chine and her smartest wraps, whether they are cape or eont, Will be Invariably white. A new type of gown for the summer girl at the sea shore Is of coarse white etnmine. w th lust a toucn oi em hroldei-v done In the Turkish colors. red. vellow and green. The gown is made with a long skirt, the upper por Hon arranged In groups " Of vertlc.nl plaits and the lower part loose, full r.nd flowing. The bodice is the new eollnrles style, and It is worn with a black taffeta tie nnd belt with sasn ends. The embroidery, which gives the: very hew touch to this smart look ing black and white gown is Introduced on the collar, cuffs and also on the f-klrt. where. tho plaits spread out into fullness. Of course the summer girl has many coats. Some are practical and some are not. and the fact is that the. pret ir her wrans the less practical they are. One of the newest coats des-igned. for her special use is of white broad cloth, hemstitched and braldedr and made with white lace sleeves. The summer girl does not worry her head about how perishable It Is; she Just admires the way she looks when wear ing 1t. It Is r short, loese-flttlng coat, and bands hand-wrought Persian embroidery add to its charm. There Is something new In hats for the summer girl. too. The scoop hat Is the latest -It is prettier and more coquettish than It sounds. Its special feature is the underbrlm . trimming. The imt flts.j!l0se!y .to. the. head, at.the back, but n front the( jjrlm- protudes in a rather "astonishing Way. and flares sufficiently to display , Its elaborate trimming. , It Is on this trimming that the be coming effect of the hat depends. Coarse struw hats have the under-brlm softened by folds of foamy mallne. with trailing vines of leaves and roses to glvfl the'eorrect touch 'of color. Others Bhowjthe protruding brim faced with medallions of lace, threaded with black velvet ribbons, which sre ar ranged In nrtistic shapes, so that the: effect Is a lace medallion, threaded with velvet ribbon, alternating with velvet appllqtted flower. BEAUTY. OF ARMS Without prefty'srtns no woman cart expect to make herself thoroughly at tractive, jt is not alone In evening dres, that ,tbe woman with beautiful arms looks , well. There ,1a , something about a pretty, arm that makes itself attractive and noticeable through tho dress. And It is possible to tell at a first fiance whether a woman can wear evening, dress to good advantage or not. A big, plump arm is not the thing, peaking from a standpoint of beauty. In a tight sleeve It suggests a sau sage. In a buggy sleeve it is too big to be pretty and out of all tirrtnnr. tlon. In ii phoulder trai it even wnnn rftp ihn it h.,ii.t.... i more apparent. " t""7, io nrmi snouuiriio covered with a layer of firm white flesh. They should be smooth, and their ex terior should not be very hairy or mot tled. They should be strong, and their grace Bhould suggest a hidden power. They should not look soft and flabby. The girl -whose arms are too stout must train off the flesh. She must usa them vigorously, and must go through with arm exercises that will make them slender. If the right exercise are employed the arms will suddenly grow small, ap parently shrinking day by day. But as they lessen in else, their strength in creases, and they become prettier for their lack of flesh. The girl whose arms are too thin must work in a contrary direction. Women who typewrite Incessantly and who otherwise must use their arms, ar often troubled with bony elbows, and it is for them that a sermon on arm development must be preached. The arms must be rubbed nightly with hot oil, of a kind that will sink Into the flesh. The best oil for this purpose is melted cold cream. This can massaged Into the akin In such a w that it will reach the tissues and absorbed by them, thus plumping out the arms. The arms fatten ' up so readily that the patient is in danger of getting them too plump. She must stop at Just the right time. Her wrists must taper, and the danger Is that they will forget to do so when once they get to putting on fat. Lines that look as though a thread were tied around tho arm will appear, and the wrists win crease and roll like the wrists of a baby, and in a grown person this cannot be called attractive. se beTm )UtS YOUTHFUL COUPLE One of the. most youthful couples ever -married In New York will have their wedding on June 10 at the Church of the Incarnation. The bride Is Miss Louise White, the daughter of Mr. and Mrs. John Jay White. Rhp is In short dresses and is at school. Her mother was a very popular belle some years ago when she was Miss Hoffman. The bridegroom Is Walter Suydam. who is a little over eighteen years old: He Is the eldest son of Mr. and Mrs. Walter Suydam, who are representatives of the old Putcfr families of this city. The engagement was announced n year ago, but everything possible was done to postpone the wedding until the young man at least should be of age. But th young people are very much In love Indeed, and so the marriage will be' one of the affairs of late June. Thl Is the second boy and girl wed dnlg In society this year. The other was that of Beekman Lorlllard. a son of Mr. and Mrs. Iouls Lorlllard. who "was a little older, but who marrlecT"' a young girl from Washington still at school. It. Is said that on her bridal trip she appeared before her new relatives with her hair up In a braid and In ahd-t dresses. ... She- and ner young, husband live at Ashevllle and she took quite a conspicuous 'part in the recent bazaar hold there" by Mrs.' Geo'rge'V'ahderblltr HINTS ON LINGERIE As a rule yokes are very shallow and circular. .And the new nightgowns show the yoke In the back, that is. the em broidery that runs around the front is carried also around the back. Of course. In the fine French underwear, thjs em broidery Is done by hand right onthe sheer fine muslin. But manufacturers have Imported small squares and oval of, fine, exquisite embroidery and set them Into Amerlcani-made . garments, which permits the woman of limited means to secure some exceedingly dainty underwear at moderate cost. Nightgowns for summer, as a rule. have low, round necks and short sleeves. The sleeves are . almost as 1 pretty as tnose on dresses.- j ney are nntsnea wun the graceful handkerchief points, and are dlstractlngly alluring. A corset cover comes for wear with summers blouses whlcn has three shaped ruffles across the bust to help give a pretty figure. The ruffles run from armhole to armhole, dropping a little In front- Starched, they give a graceful fullness to the waist. The ruf fles can also be bought separately at tached to a skeleton waist a thing of tapes and. strings that slips on over the arms and Is held in place about the waist. Thus One set does for many cor- set covers. Baseballl Sunday, May SI. Twenty-fourth and Vaughn streets. Schlllers vs. Oregon City. Oame called 3 p. m. 25 Der cent of proceeds are to be de voted' to --Benjamin E. - Thompson, the- bllnd letter-earrier; Tickets for sale at Schlllers" Cigar Stores, Third and Morrison, Fourth and Washington. 8lth and Washington. FADS AND FANCIES OF DAINTY WOMEN Women'now have a fad for dainty gar. dentng tools. Some of the spoon-shaped trowels have porcelain handles.- others are finished In burnished nickel end top per. Tools made to order bear the own ers' monogram ' or have some simple ornamentation on that part of the blade where It Joins the handle or as a flnUh to the handle itself Pruning knives of fine metal are mounted., with Ivory handles In quaint Japanese patterns. The watering pots are most attractive.' They have ornamental Jets, and the sides and half-covers of the Jars are decorated with garland of flowers. -V : . . , - . -y . . . : - . . .