TTir 5 mm unnsdl .
Wnai JFfloweirs
If thcBo brilliant sunshiny days continue flower-be-decked
hats will soon pome from th-Mr resting place amid
crushed tissue paper, and the purk and avenue will ba
filled with fair creatures" who could not wait until Easter
week (n don bewitching headgear.
Bewitching la the word to ba uaed for the exquisite
hats and bonnets which hnva been brought from for
eign thor to atliai r lovely malda and mntrona from
thulr Lenten meditation. Never were hat ao lovely
ns those thnt ar now being exposed for feminine eysa
to bus, and later In tha bob son will be worn to charm
masculine hearts. No matter whether a maid b
blonde or brunette or ft mixed betwecen, tha mllllnnre
have thoughtfully considered hrr coloring. For tha
fair girl there la that blue, which la ao United with vio
let na to partako strongly of the purple, while the deafl
iru fit lim ifi'i run urn win iiik it it'll ii. r iiraui; VI Miw
dark-eyed maid. For the lovely young creature who
Is neither blnnde nor brunette, yet who la Just ft
fnlr ns he:- other slstcra, there Is but tereup thnt tender
spring shnde that Is o pretty on chestnut holr.
It la In black and yellow rough atraw that a lovely
round hat la made. It la not intended for such formal
occaalona aa teaa or reception, but will be worn when
out In the forenoon upon, walk or shopping expedition.
The crown la of black, and either edge of the yellow
rim haa Just a suggestion of the black upon It. This
yellow rim la also flecked with black upon It. the atraw
roaett that la saucily perched at the left of the front.
About the arown on the right side la velvet In the two
tones, and thla hangs In many loops off from the back.
In the flneat of black chip Is an exquisite hat, which
EiiieMiff: ;ffies'Newl Parisian Sttvfe s
twlei. mm wm&wm ww JlON
An Eaatertide Dream. , vf I riowera and Feather.
Bit of Lee and Tail.
would be sombre, were not the rim faced with many folds
of roae pink mallne. Two Ion ostrich plume weep
either aide of this hat and hang afar off from the back
of It.
Out of mallne a charming round turban Is fashionable.
The back of this Is unrelieved with color, and the mallne
ha been ao stiffened that even April dampness will not
change Its form. This tmnie Is worn 11 wee hit over the
forehead and three buckles, mndo of black, rough straw,
ornament the left side.
In two tones of bio Is a pretty round hat. There
Is little to this hat other thnn the alternate braids of
straw that give It the dual tone. The hat Is round and
A FarsHte la Paria
hs a rolling brim. The blue haa the purplish hue In tho
darkest shade, and that of the violet in the fainter one.
At the right of the front are two perky wing that are In
the earns coloring aa the straw, and theaa are held ln
place with a handsome rhlne alone ornament.
In whit straw of a tine weave la a lovely hat that
Is gently sprinkled with fair Marguerite and howy
black-eyed Busans. The hat haa the scooped rim and la
worn well off the face. It I trimmed with a moussellne
de sole scarf of an Ivory tint and will see light whan tha
day are warmer.
To be worn In the evening I the daintiest of trlngleaa
bonnet. It I made merely of double roaette of tulle,
held together with a lovely pearl buckle. Out of one of
the mallne roaette Is a black aigrette, and tha hair must
be thick, fluffy and lovely, not to apoll tha artistic effect
of the Parisian bit of millinery. In rlo atraw la a pretty
morning hat. The effect la the aver popular and becom
ing one of black and white. The atraw I black, trimmed
with three narrow ruffles of white velvet, and each of
these in turn is edged with black.
Spring Silk
Suits for
Shirr Waist
tfyiia 4y crji.j tfpJGftss.
Shopping or Travel.
Newest Model of Summer Silk Shirtwaist Inits.
Alwaya ready, and alwaya stylish and
dreaay are tha pretty spring silk shirt
walat auits. They ara the most comfort
able suits in the world for shopping. They
are light and cool and have no train to be
held up out of the dirt and duet all day,
which task becomes very tiresome after
spending an hour or two traveling In and
out of the different shops and especially
so when one get caught in a rain atorm.
An exceptionally pretty style, shown In
the picture, I made of black and whit
shepherd's plaid. The aklrt Is a plain
gored skirt, cut walking length, trimmed
with stitched bands of the same material
and bluck and white silk danglers.
There are three of the stitched bands
Just below the belt, about an inch wide,
which produces a Bort of yoke effect, lack
ing about four Inches of meeting In the
front of the skirt. The ends of each strap
are cut to a point and ornamented with a
mixed black and white silk dangler.
Each aeam la laid In a narrow plait,
which I atitched down to a Utile below
the knee and there left to flare at the
bottom. The narrow hem Is atitched with
three rows of machine stitching, regular
tailor tyle.
The waist la laid in solid tucks, which
are brought In together at the waist line
with plain bishop sleeves. The stock U
exceptionally pretty. It haa a turnover
of the silk and a scarf which reaches
to the waist line. It Is knotted at the
throat and pulled through a crocheted
ring, then under "V" shaped straps of the
silk, with the long- pointed ends left to
hang to the watat line.
These atrap are ornamented with tho
Ilk dangler, corresponding with the
skirt stitched belt of same.
Another black and white taffeta suit Is
shown, but this haa a tiny little check and
la piped with fold of bright red peau d
ole.
The aklrt Is cut similar to the (hep
herd plaid, with the yoke effect of the
atitched band, but In this case each band
la piped In the red peau de sole and
stitched In red. On the end of earh hand
Is a bright red aatln button. The skirt
Just clear the floor, both hack and front.
The walat has a yoke which very much
resembles a wide collar. It Is narrowed
in at the waJat line and trimmed with six
of the red satin buttons and piped with.
tne red peau ae sole.
The stuck ha a turnover piped In the
red with a pointed tab In front, with one
button on the end.
The sleeve haa two tuck runnlna
lengthwise, which complete the fullness
desired for the bishop effect, with a plain
euir.
These suits ara also shown In the
changeable taffeta ahades.
One shown In the picture Is of change
able blue taffeta. The aklrt la cut with
a graduated flounce, each flounce being
lV'd with white silk and stltrhed with
throe row of white stitching. The seam
are all tailor-stitched in white silk.
The frunt of the walat is laid In four
wide box plaits, which are piped to cor
respond with the flounce and brought In
at the waist line, this gives the much de
sired broad shoulder effect. The back fits
tight with two tucks on each side, which
taper In at the walat line.
The collar baa a turnover with two cir
cular tabs in front.
The cuff is cut with "two tabs at the
back, which are fastened onto the puff.
Another very serviceable suit Is or plain
black taffeta stitched In white silk. Nar
row atitched bands of tha taffeta are put
on In a sort of lattice work around tho
hips. The bottom of the aklrt Is finished
with a plain hem. The walat is laid In
narrow tucks running lengthwise, which
are atitched In white to correspond with
the skirt Bishop sleeve with three tucks
to the elbow and fan cuff stitched In
white.
The atock haa a scarf of the silk, which
Is brought into a smart knot with long
ends.
An effective design la also shown of In
visible striped blue taffeta-
Tho skirt Is plain gored, with bias bands
of the taffeta running tha length of ejch
seam, being nmshed at tne bottom with
so u are patches of the silk.
The waist has two wiae dox plaits on
each side of the opening, and one which
conceals the button and button hole. On
the center plait are three of the 'square
which are sirt in the center witn a nar
row blaa band of the allk woven through.
Plain stock and btahnp Sleeve.
These suits make the most serviceable
knockabout" costumes and at the same
time have a chic appearance.
TA'kCMJi OtOVtC
to W
7 5Ry n
1 w - M m S . 1 I
I
STYLE.
BROAD T&4
J
.rrv
AT rue Hurr
AND UHfT
NEC
Little Hints from
the Exhibition of
the Dressmak
ers' Protect
ive Association,
Smokele Combnation.
The epace above the Are bed should be
devoted entirely to the completion of
combustion before the gases comeTn con
tact with any cooling surface. The com
bustion lti your gas Jet or lamp flame Is
complete and perfect. Hold a test tube
of water In the flame and note the Im
mediate deposition of unconsumed fuel
upon it. Hold a coil of wire about a can
dle flame and watch It go out These ex
periments were once known to most of
us, vet we placidly aet our horizontal
tubular 28 Inches above the grate and
wonder why we get smoke. And as
though that was not bad enough, we have
in the wonderful. Btrides of progress of
the past decade, built water-tube boilers
In which the gases and flame rise from
the grate and plunge immediately through
a high bank of tubes. I am informed by
a maker of both horlxontal and vertical
ier-tube boners tnat tne lormer, wun
te Are directly below In the tubes, is
more eincient ior nw im
ter. with an exterior rumace. ior son
coal. The r'eason are not hard to find. '
We are told that radiation Is the moat ef
ficient method of transmitting heat;
hence, the advantage of the hotzontai
boiler with tho tubes directly over the tire.
With hard coal having a short flame,
combustion Is practically completed be
fore reaching the cool tubes, Hut with
soft coal, more Is lost in the horlsontal
boiler ' by the dampening of the flame
Sni.i,inS hv X.eV radiatinn" t than mft(le in the efficiency of the boiler
i. f lo.drt h H. T P'ant' 1 ftm not ""aware that this state-
tube aurface. If a furnace could be de-I ,, K, A,anto h Q,i
vlRerf in which the advantage of direct
radiation could be retained while the
gaaes were kept from contact with all
cooling surfaces until combustion waa
complete, we would make a long stride In
advance. B. 8. Farwell, in The Engineer
ing Magaalna for March.
Steam Boiler Economy.
The principle affecting the economy of
steam boilers are so simple and well rec
ognised It aeems almost Incredible that we
have not made more progress than w
have during the past century. Notwith
standing all the elaborate experiment
and Investigations of our scientific men,
we (till hang the kettle on the crane, so
to apeak, and let It absorb what heat It
can before the gases go up the big chimney.
tor a number ot years no advance has
Kient will be disputed bv Inventors and
other Interested parties; nor do I wish to
be understood to say that some of these
so-called improvements are not correct
In principle, and more or leas ao In ap
plication. I am speaking of the general
practice of the day. We still, after many
years and the introduction of expensive
equipment, find our boiler plant running
on 79 per cent efficiency, what becomee
of the other 30 per cent, and how can "It
be saved? About 1 per cent la In the ash,
t per cent Is radiated, and 23 per cent goes
up the chimney for one cause or another.
From a scientific standpoint. It la easy to
see how to remedy tho first two items.
E. S. Farwell in the Engineering Maga
alne for March. I
A Tear'a Tobacco Bill In America.
The trust has gone Into the manufacture
of cigars. It has been In business less
than two years and during the past
twelve months It produced about a billion
cigars. Aa the total production of the
country is approximately aeven billions
this represents a very fair amount of
business for an Infant concern. This
has been a period of remarkable expan
sion In the cigar trade, however, and the
production of the American Cigar Com
pany represents Just about the Increase
for the year, so that the new enterprise
has not Interfered seriously with the in
dependent manufacturers.
The epormous extent of the tobacco
business In America may be realised from
the fact that seven billion cigars, three
billion cigarettes, and two hundred and
eighty million pounds of manufactured
tobacco and fifteen million pounds of stuff
are produced every year. The retail value
of all the smoking and chewing tobacco,
In its various forms, approaches $500,000,
000 annually. It is indeed a business of
royal proportions, and It control Is
worth fighting for-March'e Leslie's.
Many little hint of the new modea of
the season may be obtained from the
study of the models exhibited at the
Dressmakers' Convention In Masonic
Hall, New York.
A glance at the display shows that ruffs
will be all the style this spring. These
ruffs or neck dressings come In plain
black or white or In the two colors. They
can be obtained In the shops or made at
home from a few yards of the material.
One noted waa the new tabs worn on
the belts. They can easily be placed on
last year's belt. The new hats show a
preponderance of lace and feathers.
One of the most striking designs re
ceived was from a Denver dressmaker.
This gown was made of biscuit-colored
crash, flecked In black silk French knots,
trimmed with a loose, coarse linen lace
Insertion, which very much resembles the
Russian drawn work so popular this sea
son.
The skirt Is gored with a flounce built
with tucks, one overlapping tho other,
with two vests of the lace. The slip skirt
is made of the same color taffeta silk,
with the haircloth In circular flounce.
The corsage is bloused, with tucks and
insertion.
The guimpe is made of allover coarse
lace, trimmed with narrow ribbon. The
coat Is made of the same material.
"Monte Carlo" shape, with percallne with
tucks, with tha material cut In shapes or
namented by fancy buttons.
Judging from the display, the morning
costume i composed of a plain skirt fit
ting well around the hip without being
tight, and cut In blaa with a oenter seam.
The blouse corsage Is cut similarly and
fastened under a very wide pleat in
front. A narrow waistband, collar and
wristlets In dark and blue green velvet
stitched all over, complete the costume.
Gray dresses are much in favor for aft
ernoon wear. An especially pretty gown
In this color shown was in cloth trimmed
with white guipure and with a band of
gray velvet around the bottom of the
skirt; yet another was embroidered over
orange, the collar, in cloth, being also of
this color. Orange is very much in evi
dence just now.
The very latest creations In evening
dresses appear to be composed entirely
of a series of skirts in mousseilne, placed
one over the other. In different colors,
such as blue, rose, yellow and Nile-green.
The corsage unites with the skirt, which
is cut very narrow and tight on the hips
and extremely wide at the bottom.
Hats worn by members are made of
shaded straws, running from the dark to
the very light. This color scheme dla-
fdays a rich red, from deep claret and
iright cerise to the softest pastel pink
and rose, all on the same hat; black
shading off Into gray and white Is another
combination that Is very fashionable
and very refined. Green and blue will be
fair rivals te an unusually large nambe
of white straw hats this summer, and th
richest tones of amber and orange, shad
lng off to a pale yellow.
Turning
Commerce)
the World's
Weitward.
The European mall and passengers al
ready go from London to Eastern Aln
by way of Canada, because it I shorter
and there la a laving of ten day In time.
The limit Imposed on cheap freight traf
fic from Europe to Asia are: The toll
through the Buei Canal, the slie of the
ships that can pass the Sue Canal, the
cost of coal along the route, and. tb dis
tance. Tolls may be abolished, but this la not
likely; it will take years to deepen the
canal, even If thla project should be ad
vocated; the cost of coal along; the route,
as well aa the distance, will always be a
serious drawback. There la abundant and
cheaD coal in Great Britain, on the At
lantic seaboard, on Puget Sound, and all
along the line of the Northern roads, and
there are an unlimited number of empty
freight cars west-bound. By building the
largest ships in the world, even though
they run under the more expensive Amer
ican register, by filling the west-bound,
cars at a rate little more than the cost
of handling, Mr. Hill know that ne can
turn the export trade with Western
Asia from Its three-hundred-vear old wav
past India to the direct Paclflo sea route
past Alaska. Harrington Emerson, la Th
Engineering Magaalna for Marco.
3
Stat
ttte
mnim
Sural
met
(Snr
'After all. what girl doesn't almost live
In a ahlrtwalst (luring mo j miuu.
wavs ao cool and comfortable, and this
m.x,t. .nf iinatfi nr a no elauomtelv
trimmed that they can easily be' won, for
dressy occasions. ,
The design In wnah mlk wa sis ire
as dainty and pretty na can ue.
are so Inexpensive that we can all have
at least one. and the girl who is handy
with her needle and. haa a fair Idea of
dressmaking can make herself one or
these waists with very Httlo trouble, as
they are unlinea and fit loosely.
A very pretty wash waiet that is shown
Is made of, wash China silk. It Is much
on the order of the piain shirtwaist, with
a wide box plait of cluny Insertion, with
cuffs and collar to match. One or two
rows of shirring at the shoulder seam.
ThroWv plenty of fullness Into the bust
The elbeves are bishop, with wide cuffs.
Another of these thin, breey waists I
made of the same material. , the ' entire
waist being; a creation of narrow tucka
and insertion both back and front Th
insertion is so arranged aav ton effect a
rather pointed yoke. The sleeves are
aiso trimmed witn the ?Iace inser
tion from shoulder to elbow, where
the bishops puff commence and end In
a wide ruff of the insertion and tucka.
This walat worn with a pretty whita
broadcloth or etamine aklrt and a large
picture hat would make a very stylish
costume, i ; " V
' A very attractive design la alao shown
In this wash- material. It la tucked In
squares In the center of which are lace
medallions.' - ...... . -
fiix of these medallions are arranged
7
traveling; In summer. It is cool and doss)
not. show the soli uastly.
I A very pretty design la shown of tais
' iiiaierim mmmea wun pais oiu rau ae
sole. The front of this walat 1- of solid
tucks, each tuck being sketched with
light blue silk and piped with the peau
de sole. It Is closed in front with a
wide box plait stitched and piped
with the blue with light blue hand
crocheted buttons. The back has a
box plait down the center, with two small
tucks running lengthwise on earh side.
Each shoulder seam has a strap, which is
cut to a point at one end, running from .
neckband to just a little over the shoul
der, on the end of which is one of the
crocheted buttons.
The cuff and collar . are of the plain
pongee, with a pointed turnover Of the
pale blue peau de sole.
Another walat for spring wear Is
made of turquols blue litcinne, trim ,
med with ecru lace medallion. A sort .
ot a yoke 14 formed of inverted plait.
The medalllona are arranged down the -front
three on each side.
Th ilMva im muds bluhoB. with an tXfra
full Dull and one medallion on each sleeve,
The collar la laid in tucks, with a medal
lion on each id.
Thau ailili ara. tit eaiirm. man Ovtt
a llnlnr. and while DOSiiblv a 'little too -
warm' for summer, are very comfortable
for early spring wear . . i
Th plain cotton waist of last iso
mer must give way to. the more
orate one this year. The tailor-mud -white
cotton cheviot walat wl.l aiy
i . fWinnlAi. at fniirA. for whiit I
prettier than till Mverit ws)t wora " i