ft
cimf, .Oregon daily jotnra'Ai;; fortla3Td, Wednesday irvxyry g, December 24, 1902.
AN AMERICAN GIRL'S r
TRAVELS THROUGH
She Has Encounters With the Tipping System
J , Which Are Not All Pleasant.
Bjr xiriam KioaelaoB.
It was rather an inglorious exit that
we mad from Belgium. Much to our
surprise, for we. were leaving with that
Wholly unfounded feeling of having been
exceedingly generous in the matter of
tip.
The enjoyable sensation of having
been munificent is apt to afflict Amer
icana who, for the first time, meet the
Wholesale tipping system of the Con
tinent, and abide by its dread unwrit
ten law. As a matter of fact though,
this self-gratulatlon Is only another ab
surdity .of the untraveled. The man
you tip is not grateful to you, for the
lmple reason that he feels that he has
received only what Is his due.
The man you forget to tip bates ..you.
Hot only for being stingy, but because
you have .in your purse money that is
rightfully his. The gratuity in Europe
is one of the Ironies of existence. It
Is not a gratuity, by any means. Mor
ally, you owe the surplus which the
tippee expects. If the tipper gives him
large piece of money to change he re
tains not only the price of his service,
but his tip as well a large tip, if you
look Innocent and lamb-like; the regula
tion amount, if you are a native and
know Just what the appropriate
amount is.
Types for Everybody.
But even that varies. Sometimes a
porter will double up with gratitude for,
six American cents. At others he will
look scornfully at the pieces in his hand
and express himself in a foreign ton
gue with an accent that makes you feel
there could be no more thoroughly de
testable, contemptible cheat in a trav
eling world than just your own self.
At times like,, this my sister and I
learned to throw ourselves upon the
mercy of the outraged one. "Mow
much should I give?" Nora would
hasten to ask, ( rather than suffer that
impression of 'our unspeakable mean
ness to continue. And it must be ad
mitted that the cabman or porter or
guide helped himself rather temperately
from the handful of email pieces she
o trustfully and apologetically held
out.
' After att. Don and Donna Quixotes are
Safest and hnpplest at home. If you' In
tend to reform the tipping system of
Europe, you will do It most comfortably
and quite as effectively from America,
where". Incidentally, the custom is not
unknown. And over here the sums In
volved are so small (when translated
out of the seemingly large coins of the
Continent Into plnin Amerlcnn pennies)
that it isn't really worth while making
the usual, large and altogether futile
American protest.
As to our particular encounter with
the tip rnmpant, it was this way: We
had "feed" the portler of our botel a
magnificent individual, a combination
of clerk, steward and first lieutenant to
the proprietor, with brnss enough on his
coat and cap to provide for any general
in our army, except Corbin; a man who
could direct you in four different lan- J
guages ana see you 10 your can me
with the ..air of a prince anu military
attache combined we "had'"" bestowed
' upon this gentleman Just eighty cents.
As ha wished us a pleasant Journey,
we concluded that the tip was satts
facto'ry. The - bead walterB-sdoubtltiS.
some itftllan count in distress, so grace
ful and distinguished a ii-rtilcman lie
seemed got nearly 75 cents, the change
from our bill. The chambermaid, our
OREGOJN
JTEW OOOK, ZAST SIDE
., ., .. -rw -
mew nsxasfr OASS
?"'v .if zt;&r.
When New L,lne Is Completed
the New Freight Cars Will
Be Put On.
own Jlttlo waiter, the porter, the boots
they all got diminishing but appropriate
sums. And they were happy and pleased,
every individual of them, because they
turned back into the hotel corridor
tafter holding us up In true highway
man style as we passed through) with
that unmistakable, appearance of satis
faction which one learns to look for.
At the station we had the pleasure of
receiving the thanks of the bus con
ductor for a small appreciation of the
elegance with which he sits upon his
coachman's seat. And the green
aproned porter who lifted our luggage
down was also gracious enough to ac
cept a few cents. This bestowal of
largeness so affected Nora and me that
we went on our way with all the self
satisfaction , of the parvenue and even
the old noblesse couldn't equal that.
We were called to earth uy a pro
longed and sibilant "as sit, s st sat."
It was unpleasant, but it couldn't be dl
mum1 tnwirri mrh' dreneroua and ODen-
" .. - - - v . i
kondwi tmirlata ourselves. We t
(..u.u -
-..I. ..A am 1ifHlw InH i T.irpnt when
lum buou uii ' ... ....... .. . .
the noise was repeated. It was ma
licious this time, and furious. It had
temper In it and disgust and authorita
tive questioning.
Sadness at the Last.
"What the custom-of-the-country-ln-the-matter-of-emphatie-wordlng
do you
mean by such conduct?" Its hissing
demand scented to say. "What unusual
and unaccountable and altogether Impos
sible sort of human being can you be?
Can it be that you are so ignorant or
so imbecile or so depraved and hishop
orable as to Ignore your obligations?
S st stt."
We turned and found the railway por
ter, with a green apron, of course, and
a face that was exploding with wrath
and the effort to hiss loud enough to
attract our attention. It was too true.
We had forgotten him. We had been
so pridefully taken up with the paying
of "gratuities" that we had overlooked
the one obligation that was legally due.
We paid it, and got into the train
crestfallen.
Two circumstances make Amsterdam
dear to the visitor it is not The Hague,
and It Is the professor of Rembrandt's
"Night. Watch." . , ,,
The Hague is a sort of a big village,
dully aristocratic, peopled by men und
women who might be country coubIiis
of the gay, elegant Hruxellols. Am
sterdam Is a city, owning one of the
finest museums in Kurope, as well as
two almost perfect private collections
of paintings. It Is busy and business
like, determinedly modern and ambi
tious. At the Hague the cunals are
stagnant and malodorous. Amsterdam
keeps her waterways, within their flue
quays, clean and clear by a Herculean
labor, truly Dutch in its persevering
overcoming of difficulties.
Cities Not All Olton.
As In the great Rembrandt picture,
looked at through a InnK line of arched
corridors it is as finely pluccd as It
def.erves to bo It seems to beXwtmmlnK
lu a golden hase. The yelhVw light used
bo lavishly gives It the effect of b'-ing
bathed in sunshine. It lltn't really a
night watch at all, but a (turning out of
the guard under the last, diffused rays
of the Betting sun.
How wonderfully the Dutch painted
portraits'?" That' HTlfIHy'"t6 'VIA' il. t1fii;tTKWg Wortfi img-tit, Hirt?"iflSeH'-?tatf'
of litllu things is a3 characteristic of
them In their galleries as in the building;
and maintaining of dikes. If Rem-
MADISOH - iTBEET 8BXSOB,
. ,...x-. -.. . . .. ..
stahsaju quaoe. .
WATER
brandt had not outdone them all In bis
Syndic's Portrait, there - would have j
been half a dosen others to claim pre-
eminence. It is only in the lack of that
beautiful, tricky, ' sensational use - of
light and shade, and in the perfected,
definiteness, the quality of endowing his
subjects with, fullest Individuality, that
the master painter outranks all other
masters. j
I don't And Holland's cities so ag-'
gressively clean as I expected. Parts
of Delft and of The Hague Itself rival
American towns In their untidiness.
And Holland Is gifted with a versatility
in the art of bad smelling that defies
description. A flat, lovely, smelly
country It is, with a dank richness
In both soil and atmosphere. Our first
(nasal) Impression of it we got at
Schiedam, where the fields are spotted
with buckets filled with an unsavory
mixture from which the cows and pigs
feed. But we had to- hold -our- breath
while we gased entranced at Dordrecht
from the bridge end not because the
famous view which artists love to paint
was so beautiful. Providence, - of
course, has mercifully denied to the
Hollanders. a sense of smell. They ad
mit with a pained accent, as oT some
forgotten and forgiven sin, that once
their country was slightly malarial.
But now? Impossible.
It's a loyal, lovable little nation, that
speaks a tongue like the crash of
broken brown crockery. Dutch1 Is a
tongue that one ought really to have
no ear acquaintance with, unless one is
tone deaf. Nor can an English-speaking
person take eye copnlzance of It, even
in signs and on shops and railway cars,
without feeling that lie Is suffering
from a prolonged nightmare In smoth
ered German. And to Bpeak ltr ! No,
only a Dutchman could do so gutters! a
thing and retain a throat and Jaw un
injured to afterward toll the tale of how
it felt. But you'd sooner get a Hallan
der to believe that Wilhelmlna'a hus
band abuses the little nation's beloved
little queen a report which he abso
lutely denies than to admit that Dutch
is not the moot fluent, expressive, grace
ful and musical of living languages.
We visited the palace in Amsterdam.
' JsuX w -Ui& JUth-. bfHWl ,lP,Uie,
woods near The Hague, a palacette,
with a beautiful Japanese and a Chl
neseroom, and tile circular Orange' Baal,
aflame with paintings of tile Rubens
school, and some really fine pieces of
statuary and carvings, gifts to Wll
helmina from other kings and queens.
Hut this little country place of Hol
land's Queen was so very unpalatial,
such a burgeois little residence, that
we yearned, like true Americans, for
something really regal. And we were
fitly punished for such a yearning.
The Amsterdam was such a shabby
palace, with audi unholy combinations
of color! If Wllhelmlna were anything
but a pretty, gracious figurehead she'd
exercise the feminine prerogative of
matching her carpets and her hangings.
Hard to Pronounce.
And nearly everything swathed In
cloth, nevertheless, a corner of which
tha .guida lifts .gingerly to give you a
peep at the glories it (mercifully) hides.
There's the plcayunlsh Dutch spirit of
r. i . i . j v. . v. v . ' v ' ia.iv , vi u . .J "v. v.. . . v .
t, ,-i, ? .mi v....... t h I
, 1 Will lll.i ll ,1WV . 1 .
( ... .. i .. v. . i . 1 . j .
economy for you, which covers every
a florin for the exquisite delight of 1
gnzlng at linen coverings, earp.ets can-
vassed. chandeliers encased, linnglngs
PORTLAND, OREGON,
Operating One of the Most Complete
Railway Systems of the Northwest
- . ' :
Cars"of-This Line Traverse
a Beautiful Country.
PORTLAND to CANEMAH
A Distance of About 15 Miles.
PORTLAND to LENTZ
A Distance of Five Miles.
THREE DIVISIONS:
Oregon City Division. Mt. Scott Division.
Spriigwater Division.
TO THE 3PRINGWATER POWER
JiOUSE STATION WILL BE OPEN
ED ABOUT JUNE 1st, 1903.
This line extends over a beautifa! country, and from Portland to Lentz
Gresham, Eagle Creek, Currlnsville, and from there two miles East of
Springwater.
A RIDE OF 40 MILES
sewed p, all in one orgle of desolate
brown Holland.
We went down to Scheveningen for a
day. -Don't attempt to pronounce it
We did, using all the Yi" and "ch's"
and "k's" in our vocabulary. But after
all our attempts, strivings. It was hu
miliating to see the pitying smile with
which the Hollanders of our acquain
tance would excla(p. "Oh, Schevenin
gen," with a simply Indescribable
scrunch of consonant.
This is Hollands Newport, an entranc
ing mixture of era and shore, a com
bination of fashlonnhl watering place,
a forest and ft Ashing village. This lest
is perched up hiRh Ix-hlnd the dunes
and, away from the curluus eyes of the
gay world which r. jgg in Schevenin
gen during the .Summer. Here the
Wives of the fishi riru n still wear the
old costumes and tin- sabots, the short
blaak or blue aklit. round and full, the
'kerchief, acroee the bosom and the
close, round skull-cap of brass or gold,
sometimes, with the white cap over It.
They are busy, buy women, with high
colored complexions, sharp-pointed fea
tures and i clear, straight-seeing eyes,
but their daughters have exquisite skins
and eyes, and, a poise of Bhouders and
head that the belk-s down at Schevenin
gen must envy.
The Beal New .Woman.
The villas at 8'iirvlngen are ideally
placed and planned with an art special
ised to producing just this effect of
tasteful, simple mm fort. There is a re
freshing absence ln-n- of ihe monstrous
summer hotel. Its place la taken by a
few rather pretentious places down by
the station, but re al Scheveningen dwells
In exquisitely comfortable, light, tem
porary homes, with no elegance except
that tasteful combination of piazzas,
.curtains, glass, light tables and beauti
fully shaded grounds, brilliant with ge
raniums and begonias in these gardens
in the evening the limits gleam, while
one catches Just a tiimpse through the
shrubbery of the family dining out of
doors.
The woman of the Continent is the
real new woman, though she is not
aware of It. She pushes vegetable
carts With her partner, the dog. She
works in the" Hen: Iff"" We ' 'pWr?f tfHei
figure looking pltllnlly helpless and hu
man in the midst of the vast space she
has to clear. She carries brushwood
upon her hend. pa. ked so high and so
heavy that her whole frame is bowed
down with It. la the name way, she
looks like a small moving haystack as
she totters across the Held. She pulls
up gangplanks nions tie- lakes and hauls
the passengers' 1'iKKage about. Shet Is
never too old nor to young to work, and
her right to work no one dreams of
questioning..
Still, It Is fine to see what helpmeets
these Holland wonn n are. One morn
ing on the great docks we watched the
boats come: in to spend Sunday in Am
sterdam. Clean, tidy, well built craft
loese are, long and roomy, yet often
they are manned only by the family, the
father "poling'' his way in as the
bridge Is lifted, pushing with ail the
strength of his two ajms of Iron his
boat from one side or the other, while
at the wheel, fair and buxom and ca
pable, stands mevrouw. Mer ears alert
t her- hVsw7t!'X" ?BrKis4st ler. -y
divided between the safeguarding of her
floating house (fnd care for the baby In
his homelike little rocking-horse at her
POWER
elbow. ' Rer washing, done last night,
till hangs high and dry on the lines
across the deck, Her two eldest are
brave Jn clean calicoes and shining Sab
bath morning faces. The little cabin's
window is gay with a curtain edged
with crocheted lace of her own making.
The potted plants 'on the sill are thriv
ing and blooming, and the cat and the
dog lie in amiable company at the
baby's feet. What American woman,
living in a boarding house and belong
ing to half a doten women's clubs, could
look upon the picture without envy?
But real-Holland is not at The Hague,
where in the -old Oefangenpoort there Is
a really edifying collection of instru
ments of . torture; nor at Amsterdam,
where the eld ladles still occasionally
wear the quaint, old, close-fitting gold
cap and set a dowdy, little, black
American bonnet on top of It, and rak
lshly to one side; nor at Delft, where
the Princes of Orange He burled be
neath tasteless, stiff monuments. In
churches from which Calvinism has
washed away every trace ot Poplshly
beautlful ' stained windows, stone carv
ing, brasses and gorgeous frescoes; nor
at Scheveningen, where the Dutch aris
tocracy is as beautiful and as finely
costumed as It knows how to be which
Isn't very beautiful or very fine.
Oa to Marken.
Real Holland has retreated up north.
The towns are sophisticated and dull
hued, with the adoption of the universal
shirtwaist and skirt, and its mate, the
coat and trousers. But In the coun
try ! ' A significant pause always fol
lowed this promise, when we inquired
for the real Dutchness of the Dutch. So
we believed and sailed for Marken.
You go by canal to the Island of
Marken, returning by the Zuyder Zee.
We stop first at Broek Im Waterland,
an exquisitely Dutch little village, its
streets looking as though Just swept and
washed clean In expectance of visitors.
Immaculate little houses border the
winding street, whose fair, round, indi
vidual cobbles might be counted. Right
through the town the whole ship's load
of us marches 'to the model dairy. We
are expected. An old woman with lace
cap, sabots and empty milk-cans yoked
rrr?r 'tOtrhrcr Wr'iKsfnJ' Ifr- front at'
the door of the dairy, ready to submit
to snapshots, at half a florin a shot. In
the front room a thrifty Dutch lady Is
selling milk In tiny glasses at 10 cents
a glass. In the corridor souvenir postal
cards are on sale, and In the parlor be
yond, with Its little bed built In the
wall, you are Invited to purchase
brasses, costumes. Delft ware, cheeses,
chairs anything.
We-have arrived. Marken has met us
and we are its.
Here beauty and beggary are at their
height. The tiny1 Island Is most pic
turesque, the begging at Its funniest.
Children in the old costumes are wait
ing for you at the water's edge. They
are a riot of figured cretonne, gtrdled
and laced In the back, of heavy Dutch
waists above, big-skirted little bodies,
their sabots clattering, and a curl that
looks like homemade and underdone mo
lasses candy hinging down on either
818 of a high-colored face, -whiSe1- -a
fringe of hair In front, Ilka a coarse
thatch, square-put and sticking . out
fltWte-'JsV bfswp v jthe yftsfl, , , cons de Ur
them to their entire and obvious satis
faction.' But they are ugly, these little show
AND
LINE
peasants, with an ugliness that is
heightened by their bright colors and
their evident dressed-up feeling. They
have freckles such ,as only the unhin
dered sun and wind tan etch, and which
the fog has "fixed" indelibly. Their
teeth are out, or crqoked when thev are
In. They are near to Nature, indeed, but
Nature bedizened with conscious and
uncouth adornment
But the Marken man Is still a Joy.
He is a sight for gods and women to
laugh at He wears bloomers, of course,
but such bloomers! They are made of
thick woolen material, heavily pleated
around the waist, the bulge below the
hips giving a bow-legged beauty that is
artistically circular. And he wears
them hlpless being that ho is drag
ging half a foot down from a reasonable
waist line, exposing to the public view
about 10 Inches of bright red flannel un
dershirt. For his heavy blouse, fas
tened at the neck by two bright brass
buttons, ivaches only a comparative dis
tance beltfw his mighty shoulders. His
stockings are coarse-ribbed and heavy,
and his sabots are simply huge. When
one adds a small, soft felt hat and tiny
gold earrings, and Imagines all this on
a staid, dignified gentleman of about 60,
who walks as prosperous, self-respecting
gentlemen of 50 are apt to, without the
slightest comprehension of the funny
figure he makes the sight is worth go
ing to Marken to see.
They say that still . farther north
there Is an Island in Holland In which
real old Dutch customs prevail. But
the ordinary traveler will never get
there. He must content himself with
admiring modern Holland's untiring In
dustry, thrift and enlightenment. Old
Holland lives most faithfully, and is
most easily attainable, in the pictures
of the Dutch artists.
A BEAR HUNT
IN THE SOUTH
What President Wen! :tq ( Louis
iana to take Part in.
The recent trip of President Roosovelt
to the Mississippi lowlands shows that
the' method of hunting black bears In
Southern Bwamps has not altered a par
ticle In a hundred years. Somebody liv
ing down there once found out the best
way In which to get them und the South
erner Is wiso enough to know that there
is no sciittu in trying to improve the
best.
Then, as now, the bear Was hunted with
a huge pack of nondescript dogs, con
taining pretty nearly every known breed,
mixtures of all the broods arid some
breeds unknown. The planters and other
Mississippi residents did thuir best for
the President and that ho did not get
tinythlnc was due wholly to bad luck.
Tli bears ar there, t he hones, the men.
the swamps and several hundred thou
sand of the dogs,
..Mm- lot,,u4a-, V.ttJMPk.Vi -rtft,
iAHilslana or lower Alabama want to go
bear hunting they hjCgin us . a general
thing to talk about It six weeks before
matt,
RAILWAY
V ' w - s fr fir " ' A a A n n 4. 1
BBOF AUEBTOH AT ITEM DOCK, EAST SIDE MABISOS ST. BBXDQH.
i vv Yiyw py?;l: 1 ' 'wit: y
-'vV ' ,'v'" - -
- - r. V
anrw iaxTaotrsst isast bibb
T'-r.w . .... i ... f, - j . '.
OBSERVATION OARS FOR
SUMMER TRAVELLING.
handthe Southerner always likes to talk
a hunting trip over before he starts; ho
gets almost as much enjoyment out of
the preliminary talk as out of the hunt;
and, as he Is never In a hurry about ny
Hhlng, he talks lowly and at length. .
The long talk ended, arrangements for
the chase begin with the parlies -to It
stealing every stray dog the can lay
their hands on within a month. These
dogs are shut up in a pen on some plan
tation and get well acquainted with one
another, as torn ears testify when they
are let out. " , ;;' '
Dogs of every conceivable shape and-
color are prisoners, and of all sizes from,
the little nee, which runs along lnld
of the dooryurd fence and barks at small i
boys, to the heavy-headed, heavy-lidded
cross between a mastiff and a deerhound. .:
Sometimes U' lucky man picks up the
Product of u Newfoundland sire and ' -dachshund
mother, and the product to
welcomed by all as a mascot.
Southerners p-eparlng for a bear hunt
will steal any kkid of a dog except a
hound, which shows blood, or a,blrd dog.
Those two varieties are sacred and not :
to be sent against a bear to be smashed
up.
A I.I, KINDS OF DOGS.
Dog appearances are deceitful. Oe : "
casloi ally a svlendld specimen, with
bull or terrier strain, will turn tall and
run like a streak at first sight of a bear;
while a miserable, half-starved, droop- '
tailed, slinking brute, a mixture between
a cur and a spits poodle, will fight like '
a drunken devil, sailing straight in. wit ft
abject tall defiantly rigid and ears lal
buck, fastening a hold on the bear and v
endurlng a death hug without a whim '
tier.
Almost all these dogs have nose .
rough to follow a bear scent, which. In
the slushy, watery soil of the swamp, Is ;
strong. They are taken from a big wagon i
when camp is reached, and they stay
thero because they know that it is the '
only place within 20 miles where they
are likely to get anything to eat. .
It is their business when the trail la
found the next day to stay on It and run
it out and bring the , bear to bay, and
rwy must b-gwod ewgh fighters to j
k'-ep the bear at bay until the hunters
guided (irst by the. sounds of their bark- '
ing, anil then by the sounds of the con
tlict, upprooeh near nough to shoot. . i
To tho credit of these nondescripts It ,
must Ijo said that, while every pack con
tains a few defaulters, most of them go
In as if they liked it and are knocked,
right and left with smashed ribs or'
ripped sides, rolling over and over In the
ooze and bloody from nose to tall-root,,
but getting up and going In again if
they are strong enough. Some great
fights happen under these circumstances'
lights wild enough and savage enough -to
make the men with the guns stand
still and watch with staring eyes" until..'
pity tor the dogs compels them to shoot.-
There are plenty of bears in the Sotnjh-'"
ern swamps and a hunt down there W
probably the noisiest thing in the world "
except a Soclalist-ljtibor convention. It.
Is full of hard riding and hilarity, mud.
aim 'Mobrt."strtHltf ffsenW-KlW-sottiWan."-healthy
fatigue. ; :
for ".".OflT roubles. " This would be dead
easy If the company would take his notes, "
. if (? -
. i . '
icadisov-stkset b&tdgs.
CO