The Oregon daily journal. (Portland, Or.) 1902-1972, November 07, 1902, Page 11, Image 11

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    Fil'8Tn THE STYLE TMB'"SBRSE
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'mi. - i ill' . . -"w-'iw. if ii ii if . ' ill
! f X t .'A I iklrU wer the order of th day. the very wide variety, eUtched to just above th f W ? IX ' U it fi -
f i : V. More fulneee around the bottom li the first essen- knee, from where they form a wide flare. Another M -' W ?'' " i V i BB '
1 -1 tUI and an Immaculate fit over the hlpe the second. model haa a yoke that etroulate an apron front and . ( N; Jy ht t- i X"
' V .1 EattMy new nttiioda'ee iwttUif r brausht Into ' tHmmt irlth buttow-r s y XX I S X , U - . ilQ -
' J'5l play to lve that neceeaary fulneee that U consld- The rest of the skirt te et on to this ith a head- V-., fi ,A - 1 1 , ID I '
t ' "I ered Quite IndUpensable. , In of tiny pinch tucks. C, y -v- ill ' fill
V I In summer frocks It waa easily aecured by thickly " The three tier skirt Is ahown in a model of dark I ' f , il I
";(.'- 1 tucked or fathered material, numberless frills, etc.. blue sere: each tier has a group of four wide tucke II . .' i , X t "B ," ,' '
!. I k.. ...nk imnn.aihu wUK h.' h t th KnttniTi and -th Icirt II made to tr&ln both II I I . I . V It i 3 II 11,
III ill materials, thus the necessity of the difference in cut. back and front. Pimk snd Gray. ' Dflf '',. Uj ) l I
f 1 1 - -, v -w..- I Not only In cut do skirU show a difference, but A novel effect Is liven a dinner dregs of pale blue . A . , v . ,t ,, t. II ! iVv 1 X:Ur
..- , n -jB0 a8 to ..trlmmina'. for they are more trimmed and creDe by havlm the entire skirt tucked iensrthwlne: . "ol r TK" "??aei is dox piauea, mo maienu u (I te..
Palo bine taeked crepe.
skirts were the order of the day.
More fulness around the bottom Is the first essen
tial and an Immaculate fit over the hips the second.
Entirely new methods of cuttUif are brought Into
play to viva that necessary fulness that Is consid
ered Quite Indispensable. , ;
In summer frocks It waa easily secured by thickly
tucked or fathered material, numberless f tills, etc.,
but such methods are Impossible with the ' heavier
materials, thus the necessity of the difference in cut.
Not only In cut do skirts show a difference, but
also as to .rimming, for they are more trimmed and
decorated than for several seasons back.
One, of the smart new models is of silver grray
broadcloth, wlh a fitted yoke, having tucks running
crosswise. The rest of the skirt Is arranged Into deep
TUB maktar.;-)f aUrta.-. nowadays recuilres more .talde Plaits that fiarr slightly i the bottom
thought and consideration than when plain is dark green ladlev' cloth and the box plaits are of
the very wide variety, stitched to Just above the
knee, from where they form a wide flare. Another
model haa a yoke that simulates an apron front and
Is trimmed with buttons.
The rest of the skirt Is set on to this Tlth a head
ing of tiny pinch tucks.
" The three tier skirt Is ahown in a model of dark
blue serge; each tier bas a group of four wide tucks
at the bottom, and the skirt is made to train both
back and front.
A novel effect Is given a dinner dress of pale blue
crepe by having the entire skirt tucked lengthwise;
three wide bands of cording are Ret on this at Inter
vals, thus giving a very odd effect.
The waist is made on tig? same lines, and has a
wide .collar of lace with Van .Dyke points extending
The sleeves are tucked top and bottom, leaving
Another pretty model is box plaited; the material
wide puffs at the elbow.
A pretty afreet gown of dark red cloth has the
skirt side plaited, and patterns of lace set down each
side of the front breadth.
Cbe watet- c7ss'sVcr & vest' of riiil ia&S
with medallions of the same.
Dark red clotfe, wit laee.
f lie sleeves are- tight-fitting, with puff f-4ae at
the bottom.
HE WAS HOT AW
AHQEL UNAWARES.
' They teQ a good story at the Authors'
Club la New York on Mr. Will N. Harben
Whllft, fct trial !. T- rio kVtla
summer a letter .came from a stranger in
Aiianta to say mat ne had read Mr. war
ben's Abner Daniel, and liked it so well
that be bad set his heart on having the
author of the book, dine with him at the
quaint betel described in Abner Daniel
as the "Johnston House. In Dalton
The strangar s letter referred In easy
terms or ma "am frionrin" .irw riuinit pi
Harris and Prank L. Stanton, and said
he would not be satisfied until he alsr
knew the creator of Abner Daniel. H
was willing to make the trip from Atlanta.
Harben hesitated over the unusual pro-
loepltality of a Southerner, and the in
evitable tenderness of reeling of an autnoi
towards an admirer of his work, he an
swered that h haDtiencd to ba llvln
at the hotel in question, and that, he would
meet the stranger only on condition that
he would be the author's guest.- The
Invitation was accepted by telegraph,
he hour for the dinner arrived, but no
a-uest appeared. That night about II
o'clock the town marshal called and
informed Mr. Harben that a rather seedy,
looking friend of his was locked up In the
calaboose. The man had arrived In far
from sober condition and had proceeded
to make things lively in the town, de
claring that he waa the author's chum
and was going to collaborate with htm
In a new book. The denouement was
that Mr. Harben not only settled the
stranger's fine, but, In order- to rid him
self of ' an embarrassing Incumbrance,
paid the exuberant visitors way back to
Atlanta. Mr. Harben is now shy of un
known admirers.
A New Bird Story.
A party "of summer visitors at Eiberon;
"N. J., were one day very much surprised
at the sagnolty of a flock of fiih hawks.
One of thefo birds, being mlstuk.n for a
barnvard" robber, was shot at wbllo perch
ing on the tt-p branch of a tree. The ball
truck the bird in his whin, and Iw drop
ped, flutterintr and screeching from bouah
to bough, until he contrived to rlutch at
a strong forked brsnoh nnj restud there.
AH day long hu sat, uttering plorcinit
screams, and the nvxt marniu was found
to nave gathered around him a large
circle of hawks, porbably his relatives and
friend?, who seemed to be holdlnqr a oounr
ell. Wach- In turn chattered busily, a If
while their wounded brother aeemed to
listen eagerly and now and .then put in a
word. The 'approach Of human . beings
produced great consternation among the
1 l.(r Kut thai, AKA nol Hu i.aul snd.A.
pert the dUsabled one. The sportsman
came again, Into the orchard With the in
tention of putting an end to th pour
creature's misery; but be was easily per
suaded to wait and see what tne birds
would do. , An Immediate result of the
meeting was th feeding of the prisoner,
several members of -the rescuing party
, flying to the ocean and returning with
fish In their claws. It was easily seen,
. however, that the nearness of the tree
to the housa and the lowness of the
branches on which the wounded- bird
crouched caused the greatest anxiety, and
even after the invalid's nunyer was sat
isfied, the other birds kept flying away In
parties. While ethers still perched on the
trees and seemed to be awa'tins; the mei-
' senger's retrurA.lt wafso evident that some
.plan had been made that a number of la
dles brought their needlework out into the
orchard and stayed waiting to see what
was going to be done. The hawks were
very quiet all dey, except that the suf
fer v uttered an occasional hound as it
moved uneasily on its leafy bed. while the
.watchers replied in low soot bins; tones,
p.s If with words of pity or .encourage
ment. Toward sunset a single nuwk ap
peared on the scone, then another and an
other; a chattering began, and the excite,
ment Inert tsed as the messen'nrs bent re.
turning in tiya and threes. The wounded
bird raised Itself as much as possible
from "the branch, and seemed Joyfully ex
pectant. : while the others new around it
gaily. Soon, a loud flapping overhead was
heard, a flock of hawks appeared, and
in their midst a giant hawk a bird much
larger ana stronger tnan a y or tne real.
For a few moments It perched upon the
tonmost branch of the tree, then started
up again and began circling about, coming
lower, nearer to us wounded brother, un
til, suddenly swooping, It grasped the lat
ter in its claws, and raising him gently
from the bough, soared away with him
triumphantly. The other hawks followed,
leaving the spectators overwhelmed with
astonishment. They did not doubt that
the hawk was being carried to soma safe,
retired spot, where ha eould be fed and
w14e- trBiat- hhr wound healea:-"---'.-
, Face Book the Jle west Fad. -
Quite t ha latest idea la to have a face
bcok. Instead of the old style album.
. collection of drawing paper sheet, are
bound together, and the . friends of the
book owner, are expeoted to do Che rest,
A book i sometimes made or heavy,
ooarse white linen, and in a desirable
and durable style, with the cover of
brilliant crimson, deep blue or yellow
iinsn. If a clever sketch drawn In black
is put on It, so much the better. Here
are lines that may be written in fancy
tetters neiow tne sketch:
" 'TIs a face book rare,
And, friends, I dara.
To trace its pages o'er;
With What fa In
Their minds to limn.
However, it may bore."
It la the proper caper to introduce the
book at 5 o clock teas and Sunday even
ing suppers. In it each guest is asked to
draw a head of some sort girl, man,
child or animal. It does not in the least
matter If thsy cannot draw at all. They
maidthsirJieat- -or , worst ...
Usually the worst Is very desirable, be
cause it makes a laugh. The amateur
artists must sign their names, or Write
Jlnes descriptive of their efforts. The
protests against tnus commuting them
selves are sometlmse loud and deep( M
attention should be paid to them.
The most amusing pages In the face
book are ant to be the on in whnh
detached human featuree are drawn. For
instance, . were may re a nose done by
one friend, and an ear by another. Just
the tip end or the dimpled thin by a tnira,
or the sketch of a hand. It is a good
plan to have the pages with these odds
and ends of features sketched in without
autographs.
A good line at the head of the page
would be, "By their works ye shall know
them." These are the guessing leaves
of the book, and many a jolly hour may
be passed by visitors who try to guess
the- namtuf of the artists. Some women
insist that musical friends shall express
a sentiment by means- of a bar of musio.
The selection of a bar Is made from a
popular song, and the first word of the
tine is written over the Initial note, while
the last one appears atme the closing
one.
This helps out th' guewer wlio cannot
read music, but who is familiar with
Utm songs of the day. Other fsce book
"wnesfe. wWh original minds, insist tht
only flowers or plants or trees be drawn
on th pRrs. A glance at ome of these
makes w5Jorider ip-un hxrr f ores
In flowers Is appreciated Color appears
to be the chief point that appeals to the
average eye, sr.d form to a little or no
place at ail In It.
The face book need never be complete,
for each evening that a woman entertains
a fresh leaf may be added.
SERIOUS MAKING 07 A NOVEL.
Margaret Horton Potter, author of the
new novel Istar of Babylon, just published
by the Harpers, can testify to the labor
Involved in writing a novel like Istar. In
the first place, It was quite seven years
ago that the theme occurred to her. It
was at a Thomas concert and a symph
onic poem, "Istar," by the original and
imaginative French composer, Vincent
d'Indy, was played. Immediately upon
reaching horns Miss Poter wrote the Pro
logue, almost exactly as It stands to-day.
She began that same year to build up the
theme nn J to reiiil for the story. In 1800
she worked about two hours a - day
through six or eight months, reading and
studying for it. Book I. was written in
Egypt and Sicily, and the main part of
the story at Lake Geneva last summer.
She spent three days at Sellnunte the old
Bellnous. In Sicily last year, studying the
;t6"f the int town, but sh has not
been to the site of Babylon, ad bas been
reported. Most of the MS. of Istar was
rewritten three times. In London, In 1901,
Miss Potter met Dr. Wallia Budge, the
President of the British Museum, who
gave her the freedom of the library there,
and also sent her a list of books which
he thought might be useful. Miss Potter
says that the Assyrian and Babylonish
exhibits, however, were of the most value
to her; and in the book of Istar most of
the small articles Jewelry, knives, dishes,
etc. he actually saw In the collection
at the museum, or found described in
various catalogues of articles found in
the mounds.
A BIT OF FRENCH LIFE.
A country teeming with age: a popula
tion with many unlaue custom, d&tintr
back as tar in the lapse of time as the
churches themselves, where the town
crier is almost a daily occurrence, with
his rat-a-tap-tap on his old snare drum,
and his sonorous voice droning a pro
clamation of the ma Ire. Listen with me
to one I heard: "The ma ire had heard
with regret that the children of the vil
lage have been disturbing the birds' nests
in the trees; and if these acts "are, not
discontinued,- he will hold the parents
responsible, ' and ' fine them heavily."
Strange, odd it all is, but how Interest
ing.
One lives well here: not arand rooms
and bath, to be sure, por at room and
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Tan silk and embroidery.,
Never have the gow-ns been more elabor
ate than they are at present, and some of
tne new mooes almost defy description.
The extremely long skirt remains . the
leading new features, and this can cert
talnly be Said to be graceful, even if it is
Inconvenient and eumbarseme.
One of the pretty new models Is of tan
silk, having the skirt made with the cir
cular graduated flounce, headed with -a
wide band of lace and embroidery trim
ming at the top; mid-way up the skirt Is
anotner nana oi tne same trimming.
Brown corduroy.
The waist, is made with a bolero of lace
and embroidery .opening over a vest of
cream silk and chiffon. The sleeves are
of the lace, which end it) a wide fall at
the wrist
A ' Very smart street costume of dark
brown corduroy has plain straight skirt
of medium length, made with the Inverted
box plait st the beck.
- The coat is made with a blouse front,
and' has the small fitted skirt at the. bot
tom. - .s -Mrt and the shawl caUar are
edged wiui narrow white silk braid. Th
ux-l
t. j IS M ft . .. ; - v.- ii - ' A It ' '! "4 I s.: r,- ' , -a, SB
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White lace and yellow silk.
coat fastens down the froht with a dou
ble row of whlu peaH buttons. The
sleeves are plain, with turn-back cuffs
trimmed with braid. .
Avery handsome evening gowffof lace
is made up over p.iie yelloir silk and lib
erty gauxe. The skirt Is made very fluffy
at the bottom, wuh ruffles of the liberty
Xause edged with :iny white baby velvet,
large pattern of ihe lace forms an apron
effect on the front of the aklrt. that tap
ers around to the imfk. The waist -has a
wide sailor-collar rfrect of the lace over
Green ailk and black laee.
acrprdion-plaited liberty gauze. "The
sleeves are tight-fitting to the- elbow,
where they end in wide falls of lace.
The hst to be worn with this la of white
tucked liberty gauze with two large white
plumes starting at the frtmt and -extend.-,
lug around to the back.
A veryi pretty dinner gown Is of soft pale
green silk over a foundation of white; the
skirt is made with a deep flounce edged at
the bottom with a narrow band of black
lace, the. top being edged With a design of
the same luce in a wider pattern.
x - v. ... - ZL. ' : ..
I Hh I- LUI: I V- B0A I l ib OSTRICH FEATHER
' Pale bine erepe de chine.
The waist has a shawl collar heavily
appllqued with the lace opening over a
vest Of tucked silk: the sleeve extend to
the elbow, where they end In double lace
edged ruffles.
nAiHrtherhandflome dinner gown in pale
blue crepe de chine. -The skirt has a deep
plaiting at the bottom and is arranged In
to tucks that point toward the seam down
the center of the front. The waist is ar
ranged. Into box plaits extaoding from a
yoke of Irish lace. The sleeves are wide
flowing affairs extending to the elbow.
bath prioes, for six francs a day will
foot ths bill for everything, including
wine; but we get the very best of food
at the cafes, or at the Hotel du Coq, at
Montigny, where we dine In one of the
pretty little arbors In the garden, and
forget all about the rush and struggle
for existence we have ever present with
us at horns. It Is not only a rest and a
relief, but an inspiration. Charles B.
Wells, in Four-Track News.
OnlV a Woman's Heart. .
Only a woman's heart whereon
Vou have trod In your careless haste,
A thing at best that was easy wen;
. What matter how drear a, -waste
Her life may be in the future years, .
What matters it? Do you start? .
It is only the sound of dropping tears.
As wrung from a women's heart
'TIs of little worth, fnr It" cost you naught
But a honeyed word and a smHe;
Waa the fault not hers if abe blindly
thought
, - You were truer than truth the while
What If the seeds of a lifelong woe,
From its broken shrine upstart;
What does it matter to you? Tou know
It is only a woman Heart.
Only a heart to be thrown away.
With the restlessness of a boy.
Who, careless of pleasure and weary of
Play.
Would throw down, a broken toy.
The world Is fair and ths world Is wide.
And there's more in Its busy mart;
Conscience, you know, you have put
aside; .
It Is, only a woman's heart.
But powerless Is ynu$ boasted will .
TO vanquish the ghost of sin;
It has spoken oft .and It whispers still
Your soul's dark chambers In;
In the drama of life full well you know
You have acted the villain's part
For you struck a hard, a cruel blow.
And it fell on a woman's heart
Only a woman's heart, oh, well!
'TIS little, l trow, to yon.
Whether that heart was as false as hell,
rti am heaven itfielf am true:
You may hug the thought to your selfish
heart
That vnu'rw skilled In deceotion s art.
But I brand you thief for the peace and
You stole from a woman's heart.
", ,The Songs.
1 wonder In what distant place
Sweet "Arnile' Kooney" stIH Is heard. .
Where "Da4y Woti" hae hid her face.
Where "Uoris" tetl of hope deferred? ... .
If still some tndr o-hord -4s Und .
Bi "Henrleotia," Withe and Kay.
Win never ait-a fel demurred?
Where are the songs of yes.erday?
If, In some dusky, moonllghit space,
"O Prumlte Me" Is gently purred
By some old tabby, whose embrace."
Waa never akl a heart to gird?
Anl. with barbaric accent Slurred,
In tome strains country, fVir away.
If "Tommy Atkin'a" cause l spurred?
Where are the songs of yesterday .
And where Itvea in its ancient grace.
"Iva'a Ola Sweot Song." by Time us
blurred?
Where does ;"Ben Boh" his thoughts retrace
To feed on sorrow's whey anj curd?
Does "Only Me" atll beg a word,
ilaa "Oolden Har" yet turned to gray.
Does "Majftcy" mourn her vanished bird?
Where ara the songs of yesterday?
ENVOY.
Princes, wnone loyalty baa erred '
To these, who wore In turn th bay
The aad, the Joyful, the absurd
Where are tha aonts of yesterday?
The Xweky Engagement Ring.
The telitalre he gave tier- 1 :
And which aha proudly wore
- AW through llwtemimr'i (learning
Cpon her hand no store. -
They're married now, taV Jewel
. Delights her not, poor sou) I , ,
'Tit gonsi but thsy have parebased
A waaon lod of east.
15 THE
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