5
THE MORNING ASTORIAH, ASTORIA, OREGON.
SUNDAV, MAY I 1909.
LATEST FASHIONS
FOR THE WOMEN
NEW YORK, May 1. The latest
arrivals among the spring and sum
mer models from Taris show a re
tmrkablc lack of unanimity amon
the treat dictators of fashion. There
is bo longer one autocrat who dictate
to the whole world of fashion, In
stead of one dictator f fashin '.here
re now ten or more and every one
f them seems to have ideas and
tastes different from those of his'ri
vats. The result of this diversity of
iaeas is extremely bewildering for the
flowers of fashion.
While one great house has gone
ver to mediaevalism and sends oit
noyen age models, another famous
maker pins his faith to Louis XV.
line, and still others remain true to
Directotre and Ejnpire lines. Eery
woman may choose what best suits
her taste and figure, without fear of
fceing out of style. She may wear
ler waist line just under her bust,
tightly above the normal waistlin.
at the round normal waistline, at the
natural line on the sides and bacV
bat tunning sharply down in front or
dropped below the natural line all the
way around, in true moyen age fash
ion. But, after all the princess model
may be cinsidered the reigning one
this season. The Princess frock of
today, however, is not the tight fitting
straight lines onepiece frock of form
er days- It is only semi-fitted, and
while it may suggest waist curves. i
does not define them. Many of these
models have girdle or belt effects at
the sides with straight front and back
and there are others in which onlv
the front panel carries ont the long
Enes of the Princess idea while a
waistband, of some sort appears ii
side and back.
This idea has, however, been so
snuch in vogue for several seasons
past that even an added straightness
f silhouette will not give it on air
of novelty, and the fashionable mak
ers turn out tneir smartest princess
models with unbroken lines from bust
to skirt hem. or if a tunic enters into
the scheme, from bust to runic edge.
Gnimpe and sleeves in the smart
est imported models are of net,
matching the linen material of the
dress m color. There is this seaso.i
a decided fancy for trimming colored
linen with soutache embroidery of
white rather than of self color, and in
such a case a little of the fine white
braiding may finish the top of the
eolored net collar and the cuffs, even
a touch of white next the face being
more becoming than a color. . Se!t
olored braiding is still used on many
f the linen models, but there is some
thing very cool and summery in the
effect of the white tipon the light on
, pleats, the breast pocket and plain
(French back, while the front tuckinq
nd fitted backs of other familiar
styles are still favored. It is in the
sleeves that the greatest changes
.'have been made, and though not near
ly so close as those of dressier waisK
the lleevcs of the favored shirt waist
decidedly close fitting. Tin
linens so lovely as those offered now. 'en(,rn,00sy nigh ,tocli, are as0 giv
and the shops show any numoer oting way ,0 ,arge txtent ,0 sti,T
handsome linen frocks in these "ML .linen collars and turn-down ones ol
beautiful yellow tones, often wih ,ineni muj,in an(, embroidf ry, whjch
white embroidery for ornamentation n m0$t btcomillg t0 a youthful
Linen coats are furnished with some tnroat,
of the Princess models and the one-1 Everywhere these stylish waists
piece models whose bodice and skirt give d.ijghtfui hints to the expert
are cut separately and then joined. neejie.woman, for hand-embroideries
These later models are simpler of hanJ.rn tuck, and jrawn ,hrMj,
achievement than the true Princess distingujsheti the majority. Indeed
and a safer venture for the average the gir, handy ,t her -searaM will
dressmaker. In linen and, indeed, in dwtUi you might M in ,he $hir,
all the season's materials one finds waUt paradise this ,umm, white
this version of the one piece frock those unacquai,e(t wi, the gentle
with or without an accompanying coa. art of ,he netJle wi have ,0 sUn,,
Soutaching and other hand em- .,. the oates.
broidery are the favored trimmings, , Whi,e ,;nen parasots are particuar.
though occasionally one finds a very ,y ,vcly this stason and ,he buon'.
chic little frock which, aside from hoIed edgf newef ,han ,he hem.
guimpe and sleeves, has no tnmminjr stitehed finish. The latter is more
other than bias bands and buttons. ; servjceable, but all idea of practicality
The long, straight line is usually em- vanishel where one JM1 any,hing Sj
phasixed by an embro.dered jdajnty as the latest arrivals in line.i
panel of some sort, but the embrotd- parasok A particuiarly fetching
ery. may run down the sides rather ,. , h - ,
the fashionable shops had the modish
than the front.
Large, loose separate coats are
made of white serge and are comfort
able things to throw on over the sum
mer frock where additional warmth
is needed and elegance is out of place.
One of the most attractive models
shown in the- shops was an ample
coat with raglan shoulders and a
seam up the middle of the bias back.
It buttoned down the front with large
white pearl buttons, had a shawl col
lar which ran down in a point in the
middle back, and the sleeves were
wide and open, the bottom of each
turned up six or eight inches and but
toned to the sleeve with big pearl
buttons. The coat was unlined and
even the collar was self-faced.
Big white serge capes too are of
fered in the cloak departments and
are made with clinging shoulder lines
and very ample flare and witti or with
out satin-lined hoods. One of these
capes is a most useful possession for
summer wear and the price is not
necessarily high, for . many of the
capes are unlined, and even when
there is a lining of soft satin, the
price, as a rule, is not exorbitant. It
is always a great deal less than the
cost of a big coat of the same quality-
The plain, stylish shirt waist, with
the coat and skirt gown which goes
with it, represents the acme for com
fort and practical wear, and in the
wardrobe of the summer girl will be
seen a number of models, the mater
ials in these ranging from board-Hke
linens to the finest textures.
The body portion of the practical
shirt waists differs very little from
those of former seasons. Many mod
els show the old Gibson shoulder
buttonholed edge. About a quarter
of a yard above these scallops were
eyelets set wide apart through which
was run a pale blue ribbon that ended
at one side with a large chou of loops.
Another stunning linen sunshade wa.
of green, ornamented in the sami
fashion with white ribbon and a but
tonholed edge done in white cotton
A cosy-looking garment for present
wear is a neglige made from challie
in a Persian patern. There are pleats
on the shoulders which afford ample
fullness down the front of the skirt,
and the neck square Dutch- This U
finished with a fold of albatross in a
plain color outlined with a fancy
braid. The same trimming is seen on
the front edge of the gown and as t
border to full, loose sleeves. Th
waist is defined by a loose sash of the
goods. Combination colors of pin.;,
light blue and lavender may be used.
Some of the smartest reception and
theater gowns for Spring are combin
ations of. crepe meteor and soutache
braid.
WORTH REMEMBERING.
CHICAGO. May l.-The battle of
Manila Bay in which Admiral Dewey
annihilated the Spanish fleet under
Montejo, will be celebrated tonight
at the annual banquet of Camp Luzon
Army of the Philippines. Colonel
George F. Chase, Inspector General,
U- S- A., will act as toastmaster, and
General P. J. H. Farell, Commander-in-Chief
Army of the Philippines,
will preside. ,
IN FASHION'S REALM.
Ittoman Silk a Popular Material,
t-'oulard to Bt Much Worn.
Fvr ovotilttjf omix ottoman llk 1
id tvtisUiCrubl- tills m'tistm. . Even
Iho tnilon liiive ftuployod It with good
effwt In orvr.jHuetkm with trttmnlnirq
of hovy iMMwrnontwitt. On milt of
dr)t blue 8or;, braidings and folds of
ottoumn silk In the same tone or black
an utilised effectively,
Foulnrd silk Is xulne to be a favorite
material for summer dresses. Many
of these new dottlira have borders,
and there t.i a return to the small
floral aud gemnetrli ill patterns. Ben
galine silk lit a light wel tht Is another
farorlt. Crape effevts In cheaper
At the Footwear Center
111
I I OF ASTORIA
tia3
I YOUR VACATIONS
NOW at Our Expense
A CHOICE OF FOUR
FREE
TKMF
4 MODISH DUUKTOIim OIT-COAT 37,
SaMJtT 4373.
grade fabrics as well as In those ot
blxu pric are displayed In the shops
nt this enrly date.
Tlie sninrt directoire continue I
amuiiK tlie new utwU'U lmne Fuxliioit
has deblgued t lib spring. If the pat
tern in followed e.MU tly even an amr
tetir dressmaker will huve no trouble
lu turni:;K out a satisfactory suit.
JUDIC CHOI.LKT.
Are displayed all the seasonable spring and sum
mer styles of smartest ready-to-wear shoes produc
ed this season. They embody all the new and
distinctive style features found in the the expensive
custom models and afford you the same fit as a
made to measure shoe.
Our new Oxfords are built on special oxford lasts,
giving them the famous ankle fit and feet-hug-characteristics.
MOST STYLES $3.50
C. V. BROWN
THE FAMILY SHOEMAN
its
tered some queer obstacles in rate
adjustments from the West The
Eastern and Western railroads have
at last agreed to "break" the wool
rates at Chicago, making rates in
from the West and out to the Eatt
instead of through rates which now
CHICAGO, May 1. In the effort Uxint from the producing centers to
to establish Chicago as a great wool the Eastern markets.
market, the promoters have encoun- This action has been taken despite
NEW WOOL CENTER.
Chicago Trying To Break In On The
Market.
i!,'V"f''i '"iVl
IS OFFERED YOU
ALASKA-
YUKON EXPOSITION
SEATTLE ?Songe
YELLOWSTONE NATIONAL PARK
YOSEMITE VALLEY
LAKE TAHOE
ALL YOUR EXPENSES PAID
IF YOU HAVE FRIENDS IN THE EAST WHO WANT
TO VISIT ee PACIFIC COAST WE CAN ARRANGE IT
This
s
Your
Opportunity
For Complete In- f Tr5"7l riiV Roonl l6 F,0d
formation Address Vj vll JLO KZ I 11 dV U JL VI VXX Bldg., San Francisco
vy " .r.f i it.' i' i i' i ii i
L III f t 44
t
the protest of the Eastern wool buy
DENTIST!
ers, for It is in accord with the new
rate makinir orinciule the railroad 1
are trying to establish, which is thit ; Tf (r Ta4K
of "breakina" the rates at imoort.nl 1 L'' 1 vFUl I KXWl
centers. From the wool producing
sections of the West, however, the'
rates are in need of ironiim out. !
From parts of Utah, for example, It i II tlo not put it off, ait they will
has been discovered that it is cheaper .only get worse. We are sped al
to back-haul wool nearly 1100 miles' in painless dentistry. AH our
to Los Angeles snd then re-ship from
there to the Eastern markets, than it
is to ship direct from Utah. The rail
road excuse for this is that water
competition affects the transcontin
ental rates, thereby making a much
lower wool rate from Los Angeles .0
the East than pertains from point
1000 miles inland.
Need Attention?
work is gnnrntitecd tcu years.
TEETH
i
i
, 1 V
I
2420
Paris Pattern No. 2420. All Seams Allowed.
Flowered dimity or one of the new dot embroidered Swiss materials is
pretty and cool looking and make up into delightful little dressing sacks.
The fullness of the front of the one illustrated is caught into narrow tucks,
stitched to nearly the bust line; those in the back being stitched to the
waist line and forming a box-plait. The belt, trimming band and cuffs are
of a contrasting material and shade, and the sack may be developed with
good effect in any material from lawn to silk. The pattern is in four size.4
32, 36, 40 and 44 inches, bust measure. For 36 bust the dressing sack
requires 3 1-4 yards of material 27 inches wide, 2 3-8 yards 36 inches
wide or 2 yards 42 inches wide; as illustrated, 1 yard of cotrasting ma
terial 20 inches wide. Price of pattern, 10 cents.
HOTEL8.
The Cornelius
"The House of Welcome"
Corner Park and Alder,
PORTLAND, OREGON
A' hotel where the North
west people will find a hearty
welcome and receive
Courteous Treatment
at moderate prices.
Our free Omnibus meet
all trains. ;
Under management of N. K. Clark
C W. CORNELIUS. Proprietor.
TRANSPORTATION.
-.4 J
OUR PRICES
Silver Fillings 50c up
Gold Fillings $1.00 up
22-Karat Cold Crowns IM
Enamel Crown tSM
We make specialty of platework
aud chage only fto.oo for the best
rubber plate. . ,
Painless Extraction, 50c
Office Hours: 8:30 a. ra. to 6 p. as.;
Sunday, 10 a. m to 12 ra.; Evening
Work by Appointment. Lady attendant.
ii
MEDICAL.
The ft" Line
Steamer - Lurline
Night Boat for Portland an
Way Landings.
Leaves Astoria dally except Smday
at 7 p. ra.
Leaves Portland Dally Except S4ay
at 7 a, j.
Landing Astoria Flavel Wharf
Landing Portland Foot Taylor I
J, J. DAY, Agent
Phone Main 270s
(3h
t
r
Unprecedented
Successes of
1. 1 Cff II
THI GBIA1
CEENISI DOCrtl
V ifrf Who ii know
'xTrjif'? ,hrougkot.tb.
-fi J United States rx
account of his wo-
derful cures. No poisons or drag)
used. He guarantees to cure catarrh
asthma, lung and throat trouble
rheumatism, nervousness, stomach,
liver and kidney, female complaints,
and all chronic diseases.
SUCCESSFUL HOMI TtJEATmiTT,
If you cannot call write for symp
toms blank and circular, inclosing 4
cents in stamps.
THE C. GIK W0 MEDICIH1 CO.
1621 First St., Corner Morrison
PORTLAND, OREGON
riease mention the Aitorlan. ' '