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THE DAILY COOS BAY TIMES, MARSHFIELD, OREGON, SUNDAY, OCTOBER 13, 1907.
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ttcr by A. C. Richards, General Freight Agent of Guyaquil and Quito Railway, to his Son.
Hulgra June 2B0G
Dear little Mankln:
When I started on my trip to
Quito Juno 9th. I took along a
scratch pad bo as to make memos of
all the strange things 1 saw, so as to
Do able to write and tell my boy
all about It, and I also make
memos on the same pad covering a
report I had to' make to the manage
ment. Well after 1 had made my re
port, which was nine pages long,
I tore up the memos, forgetting that
the most important part of the
ivhole business, outside of my ex
pense account, had yet to come, I. e.,
my report to you, so I will havo to
trust to memory to not miss tho
many strange, queer and odd things
I saw and experienced. I left Hur
grla, at mll0 73 from Duran, which
place, Duran, you know Is across
tho Guayas river from Guayaqulll
Tind the terminus of tho railroad, at
1:30 In the afternoon and arrived
at Cajabamba, Mile 131 from Duran
-two hours late or at 7:22 instead
of 5:22. Mr. Cash of tho Andean
Trading Co. was good enough to
meet mo at the train and I went to
Ills tent for tho night, or such part
of it as was left before the Raplda,
stage started in the morning, he had
supper all ready, but as tho train
urew had asked me to eat with them
at Colta, only three miles from
Cajabamba, and by the way Is the
liighest place on the now operated
lino being 10,815 feat above sea
level, I was not hungry, particularly
as now is the quail season and we
and Bomo delicious broiled quails,
there was no toast or small "bot"
however. Mr. Henderson, our gen
oral manager, and Mr. Forrester,
secretary to Major Herman, wore
-with Mr. Cash, as they were there
to meet tho president of the repub
lic, General Alfaro, who was, with
his party, occupying the private car,
Elizabeth, which Is named after
Major Herman's wire there enroute
-with his daughters to Guayaquil to
meet Mrs. Alfaro, who since tho late
unpleasantness tho revolution
which put General Alfaro again in
power, has been living In Panama,
I went around to the stage office and
deposited my ticket, which cost
sucre 10.00 as I was only going, in
the Raplda, as far as Ambato, 30
miles from Cajabamba, as from
there I was going to Quito, by easy
stages, so as to study tho country
with tho Inca Co's. paymaster, you
know that the Inca Co. Is building
tho road for the Guayaquil & Quito
Hy. Co. Well I saw tho Chltro and
gave him a sucre, which is the same
as 50 cents in gold, so wo would not
forget to call me, like the May
Queen, "good and early" and ho
sure did It, as at 3:45 he was knock
ing at tho door, or rather the fly,
of tho tent my but It was dark and
cold you see Cajabamba is only
277 feet lower than Colta: I man
aged to get a lamp lit and dressed
and Mr. Henderson and Cash woke
up and said good bye, Forrester
had been reading half tho night so
did not wake up. It was awful dark
and I hollered at Ramon, Mr. Cash's
boy nnd ho got a lantern and wo
walked around to whoro the stage
starts and found three or four al
ready there, we managed to get tho
proprietor of tho hotol(?) if one
can call It by that namo up, and wo
got a drink of mnyorca and a cup of
coffeo and at 4:15 were on the road,
I hardly mean on tho road, as wo
seldom touched tho earth, but wo
started C lnsido sitting opposite each
other and I in front with tho driver
and tho herder. I wished a thous
and times that you and your mama
wore along, as you would have en
joyed It greatly and sho would havo
screamed all tho time and helped
tho mules along. Thoro were six
mules nnd in tho 30 miles wo
changd flvo times. Tho way they
herded those mules was a caution.
Don't think that thoy drovo thorn
lor thoy did not. Tho steeper tho
hill and faster wo wont tho mules
Imd 40 Just fly to keep out of tho
way uf tho coach so, It would not
run over thorn. I don't mean that
thoy walked. I don't mean that
thoy trotted. I don't mean that
thoy ran. I do mean that they ran
away. Tho brako nnd the reins
woro ornmnontB and not for use.
Doth mon had long whips, ono for
tho lenders nnd a shorter ono for
tho wheelers, nnd they for the 30
miles kopt thonibolvos and the mules
wnrm by tho most vlolont exorcise
In tho wny of honoring, whistling
and whipping tho imilOB. Curses
did not count. Tho sharper tho
curvo tho fnstor thoy tried to round
It. Thoro woro two mules on tho
polo and when it was light onough
to soo, I found that tho mules nt
encli side of tho 'polo had no brldlos
on, only traces and u ropo collar.
Thoy being tied by tho neck to each
of tho polo mules. Now thoro was
ono curious thing with all that fast
driving, I mean herding, wo only
bumped twice all tho way to Am
bato. The mules seemed to know
the road, which by the way was a
very good one, and could on a dead
run miss all the chuck holes. A little
after 5 day broke and before us to
tho left was Chlmborazo In all its
glory. Tho sun tipped its summit
of snow and that sight alono com
pensated for the cold and tho
thought that at any moment some
thing might hnppen.
You know that Chlmborazo 1b
nearly 22,000 feet high. Tho high
est extinct volcano on earth. Tho
snow line extended half way to its
base and I wish that I had the flow
of language of Maurice Hewlett or
that of McCauley that I might tell
you of its beauty. It Btands out all
alone a sentinel over a great plain
silent, grand, beautiful, to its left,
east, I mean right not loft, is Sana
cajas Pass the highest point on the
surveyed lino of the road from
Duran to Quito, 11,800 feet high
and on the edge of tho plain
was the second stage stand, very ap
propriately named Siberia. Tho road
Carretera which runs from Alausa
88 miles from Duran to Quito, 287
miles as surveyed, la paved In many
places and the pass Is 8 miles long
and paved and the way wo ' flew
ovor that part of the road was a
caution. Tho Carretera was built
by President Garcia Moreno in the
70's and Is suro a monument to his
enterprise, as It averages about 10
meters wide the whole way and Is
a very good road Indeed. There is
a saying, and wo found it a true
ono, that ono is never out of sight
of human beings on the Carretera.
It is simply lined all day long with
Arrieros and their principal occu
pation seems to be, aside from
reaching their destinations, to keep
out of the way of the Raplda and
tho "automobiles. As soon as they
saw us coming they commenced to
hustle their mules and burros off to
ono side of the road and as we were
at what seemed to me to bo at the
rate of 45 miles an hour. Very
often we camo w'thln an aco of
running into some animal or other.
Once we did run into a man on
horseback but never stopped to see
whether he was hurt or not. From
Sanacajas pass wo could see the
snow capped Alter, a volcano that
the crater has seemingly blown out
of and left lovely Antlsana, and on
a very clear day one can see Sangay
and every now and then tho smoke
that bursts from the crater every 15
minutes.
Well we got to Ambato at about
10:30 and I took my grip and said
good byo to tho very nice and con
gonlal people who were my fellow
passengers. Ono of them was a
young officer and he had como from
Guayaquil and had on cana pants,
you know ono could not call tnem
trousers, as thoy evidently cost less
than sucre 4.00. He was laughing
about their thinness and said next
time he camo ho would put on all
tho clothes ho had, and I don't
reckon they would keep him
warm as tho ofllcers-tho Equadorean
army don't got much pay and I am
told not very regularly at that. I
took my telescope, that Japanese
ono that your mamma let me get
away from Durango with, to tno
headquarters of tho engineers and
was kindly welcomed. We made
such quick time that they did not
expect us for an hour or more so
wore not at tho stage stand to meet
us.
Wo all went around to tho Italian
hotol and had a very good dinner
nnd I went to see an old friend of
mine Sr. Lafltto, a Frenchman, who
has a flour mill and Is rich and lias
lived In Equndor for 3G years, but
who is soon going with his family
back to Franco to bring them up
and to end his days. I wns asked
by Mons. Lafltte to dinnor hut we
decided to start and mako Sau
MIguol, where tho engineers have
another house, that night and wo
did. Wo had a buckboard which
made us sort of homesick for
Arizona and I could not but romem
ber tho trip your mamma and I took
In ono 'befroo you camo
on earth, through Arizona and tlio
many and kind people wo met on
tho trip. I found very soon that
oiuig Mr. Rnkor, tho paymaster,
had imbibed tho same way of
driving ns tho stago pcoplo nnd
u'wny wo went just as fast ns tho
inulou could run, not gallop mind
vou but run. You know that tho
Carretera follows a basin, ns it
were between tho oastern and wcat-
ora Cordilleras. Tho valley Is about
live miles wldo and has throo com
paratively low passes In it from
Cajabamba to Quito. First Sana
cajas, then Cotopaxl nnd then Santa
Rosa and a curious thing Is that
onch pass or basin sends Its waters
to the Atlantic and to tho Pacific.
That of Sanacajas to tho Pacific
nnd Cotopaxl to the Atlantic by way
of the Amazon and Santa Rosa to
tho Pacific. The two engineers who
make their headquarters at San
Miguel we had left at Ambato bo
we had their rooms and a very good
dinner and breakfast. They claim
to have the very best cook of any
of the engineers and it was real
good. Wo changed mules at San
Miguel and off we started. It was
good and cold, at about 7 a. m.
We soon got to Latacunga, the cap
ital of the Province of Tungurara,
and stopped ,a little while as I want
od to see about some building stone
which ultimately, I hope, will give
tho railroad a considerable freight
movement to the coast. These
towns jare (all about tho same,
Latacunga Is all built of stone, a
pumice, and If they kept tho place
clean would not be unattractive,
but they don't. Dirt seems to bo
second nature. Art has done
nothing, while naturo has unsur
passed herself. The road from Lat
acunga to Manchachl, another town
of about 20,000, is splendid and it
was on this stretch that we had our
only trouble. The -brenst Btrap of
the nigh mule broke and the gentle
man started off, going If possible
faster than we were driving him.
Wo Anally got them stopped and I
got out and caught him by the head.
Baker got at the head of the off
mule. He said that he would get
a piece of ropo that I had tied my
telescope on with and the moment
he let go of the bridle off went the
two mules with the neck yoke
dragging on the ground and dragging
mo as well, bo I had to let go and
off they went with the buckboard
and my valise on the dead run, but
within 100 yards they collided with
a telegraph pole and skinned them
selves from tho buckboard and away
they went. You know that I have
said that ono is never out of sight
of someone on the Carretera so in
a few minutes along comes a na
tive boy leading them back. Two
traces were broken, and both neck
yokes. The hooks had pulled out
of the singletrees but fortunately
there was a relay station. Baker
changed mules three times be
tween Ambato and Quito. Quito
was only about a mile and a half
away so we hired the boy with his
companion, to push the buckboard
to the station and we led tho mules.
My contract with Baker, based on
a telegram, received In response to
my request that he wait at Ambato
for me, was that I was to buy all
the drinks on the road. So right
along side of the relay station was
a sort of cantlna or tledahone, that
Is not the way to spell that, and
there happened to be just four bot
tles of Guayaquil beer in stock
which we immediately preemptied
at one sucre per. Well wo got the
young lady who was looking after
the relay station and whos0 folks
were away at another hacienda, to
get us something to eat and after
that wo bought a rope and used
the one I had and finally patched
up the affair and started. Wo soon
camo to Cotopaxl Pass but it was
cloudy and wo could not seo Coto
paxl, the highest active volcano in
tho world, and which was oft to
our left 19,013 feet high. It rained
and sleeted on us while crossing
tho pass but wo both had coats and
Baker had a rubber ponce to put
over our legs. Wo soon got to
Machnchi, a dirty looking place,
and still had about an hour and a
half before dark. Baker said the
next place was Tambillo nnd that he
did not know what kind of a hotel
they had there. I said "Well we
can't do much worse than here, so
lets go on," and on wo wont in the
rain. It was an hour and a half
nftcr dnrk when wo got to Tambillo
but wo did not slacken the pace any.
Wo went on a dead run all the way
and finally drew up In front of tho
Grando Hotel Victoria. Wo had a
relay of mules at Tambillo and as
wo passed the statlonon the way to
tho hotel wo hollered at the keeper
and he came along and took tho
mules out. Ho had n tlmo getting
them unhitched ns tho harness and
singletrees and neck yoko were all
tied up In all mnnner of knots. ,1
wont Into tho place and asked If
wo could stop all night and a very
pretty nnd bright eyed young lady,
Miss Izulla Montalvo. of course I
did not know her namo then, said
"Yes." "C:ih wo get something to
drink?" "Yes." "Can wo get
something to eat?" "Yes." So I
hollered to Hi'ker who was still
helping tho station man unharness,
that wo woro all right and sure
onough it proved to bo about tho
very best hotel on tho whole road.
Wo had a delicious supper, us sup
pers go down this way, and good
bods with clean sheets and for a
(Continued on page 6)
The Steamer
M. F. PLANT
Plniit sails Saturday from Marshfield. . . -
No rescrvutlo n will bo held nftcr tho nrrlvnl of
ship unless ticket Is bought.
RS DOWAent
MARSHFIELD, : : : : OREGON
Portland & Coos Bay S S Line
BREAKWATER
Sails for Portland and Astoria every Thursday.
C. F. McColIum, Agt.
Phone Main 34
A. St. Dock
CURREN BROTHERS
CONTRACTORS
All Kinds of Work Done
PHONES 543, 146 and 271
North Bend, Oregon
California and Oregon Coast Steamship Company.
Steamer Alliance
B. W. OLSON, MnsUr.
Soils from Portland Saturdays, 8 p. m.
Sails from Coos Bay Tuesdays, at service of tide.
P. P. Banmgartner, Agt. L. W, Shaw, Agt.
Couch St. Dook. Portland, Ore, Marahueld, Ore., Phone 441.
WHY DO PEOPLE BUY IN
BECAUSE
It is choice inside residence property, lots 50x100
with alleys, is well sheltered with a good bay view and
prices of lots are reasonable. For particulars see
TITLE GUARANTEE & ABSTRACT CO.
Henry Sengstacken, Managor.
Wood Electric Fixtures
It lins .become necessary to
havo wood electric light fixtures
in order to have your apartment
in harmony.
AVlicn your interior furnish-
ings nil arc made to match the
effect is immense.
Wo make them with any fin-
ish, color, and can glvo you any
stylo or fittings you wish.
The best homes nr now being
planned with tho wood electric
light fixtures as they nro as
cheap nnd safe and results are
ns desired, besides no pollshlngs
to do ns on tho metal.
You will do well to seo ns or
make inquiry of your electric
. supply houso for plans nnd
prices.
AVo do nil classes of special
order work aud repairing.
.
Coos Bay Furniture Co.
North Bend, Oregon.
r,iriiiiiiil,ll MH!'mwm,l"lrmnrrmrrFaismmrmmimTjTTwjtrmt'm,
H
BBSS?
The PARKER FOUNTAIN PEN
IS UNDOUBTEDLY THE BEST PEN MADE
T. HOWARD, Sole Agent, North Front Sf Marshfield
Announcement
AVo wish to announce that our
Marshfield plant with all now
Improved machinery Is now
ready for business, and that wo
are in a position to give you
prompt, as well as the very best
possible service.
There's no economy In try
ing to do work by hand that
can be better done by machin
ery. "Blue Monday" with Its
steam, soap suds and hot stovo
nuisances can bo avoided, and
you can save money by sending
tho family washing to ub.
Phono 571 today. Our wagon
will call.
COOS BAY STEAM LAUNDRY
Marshfield nnd North Uciid.
Flanagan &. Bennett Bank
MARSHFIELD. OREOON.
Capital Subscribed 130,000
Capital Paid Up J 10,000
DodiYlded Profits JM.OOfl
Don a general banking bualneta and draws
ou tba Bank ot California. Han Kranclio
CallL, Klrst Natlcnal Bank Portland Or., Mrt
National Bank. Roeobllrg, Or., Hanover Nr.
tlonal Bank, New York, N. M. Kotuchlld &
Bon, London, England.
Also sell change on nearly all the prlndnal
cities of Europe. v
Accounts kept subject to check, sale dopoilt
lock boxes for rent at S cents a month or
5. a year.
INTEREST PAID ON TIME DEPOSITS
GOW WHY
Always has on hand
a good stock of t
General Merchandise
AT PRICES THE CHEAPEST
All Kinds of
Groceries and Clothing
COOS BAY TRANSFER & STORAGE
COMPANY.
II. C. Breckenridgc,
C. II. Walters.
All kinds of Transfering and Job
bing. Prices reasonable and
Goods handled with care.
Phone G61.
nnCB'3jatl"jj 7 ")"-""J"j"'
CAB CALL SERVICE
AT ANY HOUR
GOOD HEARSE and VEHICLES.
IIEISNER, MILLER & CO.
Livery, Feed nnd Salo Stable
Third and A Sts. Phono, 1201
Marshfield.
Kwwmuwmstt:
AH Parts of (he World 1
We use the necessary
facilities for sending
money to all parts of
the world, and without
danger or loss. .. .
fIRST NATIONAL BANK OF
I COOS BAY, Marshfield, Ore.
mjmtmnmtttnm
McPherson Ginser Co.
Wholesale liquor dealers
Cigars and saloon sup
plies. ealifonria Wines a Specialty
Front St., Marshfield
BLACKSMITH
4th and E St.
G. E. NOAH
G. 15. Noah has just opened a first
class blacksmith 6hop at corner of
Fourth and E streets, South Mnrsh
lipid. Patronage of public respect
fully solicited. Horseshoeing a spe
cialty.
A Af Tl RMITU. Afpnt. For
Charles A. Stevens
CLOAK AND SCIT HOUSE
CHICAGO
Cor. FIrt & B St. Marshfield