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About The Sunday Oregonian. (Portland, Ore.) 1881-current | View Entire Issue (Dec. 31, 1922)
list Women, Churches, Books and Special Features SECTION FIVE tarn VOL. XLI :L" PORTLAND, OREGON, SUNDAY MORNING. DECEMBER 31, 1922 ' ' : NO. 53 SUPERB FURS GREET FIRST REAL COLD WEATHER OF WINTER Short Jackets Luxury Since They Are Good for One Season Only Irregular Hem Line Seen on Wraps Caracul and Broadtail at Height of Fashion Handsome Coat of Persian Lamb Has Straight Lines FUR coats and wraps made their bow on schedule time in spite of the lingering days of Indian fsmmer that seemed determined to crowd winter over the December borlzon. Horse show week is the conventional time for donning furs In New York, and who that has a gorgeous new fur coat is going: to put off wearing- it just because the temperature refuses to come down? So during the last week of Novem ber one saw beautiful mink and eeal and mole wraps hanging from the shoulders of melted-looking women, the linings of the wraps very evi dent because of thrown-back coat fronts. But with December furs became established as a comfortable and proper protection from bleak and chill, if not freezing, weather and of course fortunate women living northward and westward of the me tropolis can enjoy their furs with out physical discomfort long before New York can. And this year the big fur coats are bigger and warmer than ever. For one thing, .they are longer (since skirts are longer), and for another, they have huge sleeves and sometimes collars that are al most capes of peltry. Black Furs Are Fashionable. Women who think and rightly that there is nothing so smart and conservatively distinguished as a broadtail coat, are pleased this sea son because broadtail and the other black pelts are high in fashion's favor. Black caracul coats are ap pearing after several years of obliv ion, and Persian lamb with soft silky pelt that closely resembles broadtail is very good style. A handsome coat of this fine soft Per sian lamb has straight lines, big, flowing sleeves, a cut steel clasp at the low waistline closing, and collar and cuffs of black fox a beautiful and distinguished coat indeed. And with a most stunning lining of dull gold silk splashed over with enor mous black chrysanthemums, whose long stems trail up and down to make irregular stripes of black on the gold background. Some of the black coats have gray fur trimming, as gray fox on black broadtail coats and gray squirrel on caracul coats.- Gray fox is a mag nificent fur; and by the yard fur trimming costs forty or fifty dollars. So if you plan to purchase a simple yet smart gray cloth coat and put yards and yards of gray fox around the circular edge and on sleeves and collar just consider what that trim ming is going to cost you at J40 the yard! One woman bought such a coat and then went to purchase the fox fur, and in the end she had to put skunk on her gray coat, since the longed-for fox was quite beyond her means. Wraps SIidw Fur In. Patterns, Garments made of small animal skins show elaborate patterns wrought with the tiny pelts used in stripes, checks and mosaic effects. Mink skins are placed up-and-down in a coat and across, in horizontal striping in cuffs and deep border at the foot. Ermine skins are sewed together to give a ribbed or narrow striped effect across a whole eve ning wrap. A handsome moleskin wrap has panels at the sides falling below the coat's edge, giving the fashionable irregular hemline. This coat has a long-waisted upper part divided from the paneled skirt by a cut steel girdle with steel band tas sels. The flowing sleeves have cuffs of the moleskin, but the coat has ar enormous choker of white fox. Coiitrant in TriunniiiK Shown. The handsomest sealskin coats are untrlmmed, the magnificence of the seal pelt igiving all the distinction necessary; and mink wraps are usually untrimmed, for mink is most beautiful all by itself. But most other fur coats and wraps have trimming of contrasting fur, and frequently the fur goes all around the edge, which' is often circular or flaring in cut. and down the front of the garment in a broad panel. Many a winter fur wrap owes Its price rather to its extravagant fur trimming than to its own peltry. Kolinsky is favored as a trimming for curacul and Persian lamb coats. Kolinsky is used, also, on seal coats, and some seal coats have gray-fox collars. Monkey fur appears here and there on winter wraps and one inter esting wrap of moleskin has a mon key fur collar not a particularly beautiful combination but a very smart one, according to Madame Mode's idea this winter. This mole skin wrap, which comes from a very authoritative Fifth avenue furrier, seems to be in eight separate and distinct panels, each pointing down ward In a deep scallop at the edge and tapering toward the shoulder line. The eight tapering panels form a circular cape and slashes between the front panels permit the arms to come through. From the same fur rier comes a magnificent mink cape with irregular hemline, a cape that spread out measures five yards around the edge, and the edge has minic tails closely set together in a thick fringe. Women Prefer Dark Fur Wrapea. For evening wear there are a few gorgeous wraps of ermine and chin chilla, but only plutocrats can afford these. The average woman prefers a fur wrap that will do duty, both afternoon and evening over formal frocks, and for day wear has a jaunty fur coat in shorter lenjeth. One ermine wrap lined with black chiffon velvet may be turned inside out for afternoon -and the big er mine collar trims both sides effec tively; but most afternoon-evening fur wraps are of mink, sealskin or moleskin. Any woman who wears an ample and long wrap of chin- . chilla is followed with admiring and envious feminine eyes, for these chinchilla evening wraps are even more rare and distinguished than ermine wraps. Jhe flapper, who simply must have i I ( - , 4 1 I ; V 1 - ' X , - -; . i; yy ' 1 i - . is i,-. x A i fy- x l-:nX f fi I i -I i - -'V i r fMw M I r - - v' n s - , " . - KivVt vlw, . ,f OM i, III4 - I ' " - 7 x -xc?v 1 v a 4 x I , , I r . - : -7 : s-I 1 , - J t , V I "v. ' V;":v" lit ' v i ' T' ' . r;,9-T v...,-: 5-' .. . t v-- , v S ' v something unusual and outrageous to deck her person ought to be wholly satisfied with a wildcat sport coat. . Wildcat is extremely popular in Paris for sport wraps, but in spite of its lurid name is a quieter look ing pelt than leepard. Perhaps the most lurid sport wrap of the winter is a leopard coat on wrap lines, with broad bands of flame-colored fox making a collar and front panel, and deep cuffs on the loose sleeves. Very short fur jackets and very long fur coats are fashionable this season, and the women who had three-quarter coats last winter to wear with short-skirted frocks are chagrined because the three-quarter fur coat looks awkward over a long, limp skirt. Many women who own handsome coats In this length are having them cut off and lapped across and made into chic little jac quettes. But she who must buy her fur coat for several seasons is wary of those cute short jacquettes, which will probably be of no use another year, and are paying .an extra U00 to procure a longer coat whose style season will not be so brief. Smartness Requires For Collar. Whatever material your winter coat is made of, the coat must have ana a draped effect rather than never go out of fashion, no matter use or gift use. See that the Ma- phm B wardrobe for me. I am going to 6, No 4896-D This is in a lighter be lovely with the dress. The but a huge, muffling fur collar if it is alKght, coat silhouette are wnat the fRfl of - mom6nt may be. deira patterns you buy are done on Florida for the winter, and I want to weight of the camers hair cloth. The tons- at the waist line 1 would have .I'l.r:6?- STtim"a" Tt, fT pure, linen-that the best Madeira SVlTc "t nxodel of dress appears in the same of the combining material. r r' u an? lub iur uiumuug ttuuea ait$rwara. . ... iiere Us.M a collar of gray fox, one of the most costly furs and one oi me most Decoming, also. The big fox collar has been added to a-coat of sealskin, but would be equally stunning on a coat of caracul or of gray velour or other coating fabric, With the soft gray fox collar a vel- vet hat in fuchsia shade is wonder- fully effective. The feathery quality of -monkey fur is "made the most of this year and this fur is used lavishly in win- ter fashion to trim picture hats and elaborate frocks. The restaurant hat jshown here f34231 is rf hrnwn vol. vet and brown net and a fringe of monkey fur falls all around the brim from a rolled twist of velvet that encircles the low crown, A flat, ' 'I'...,."- - 'Wh soft bow of the velvet trims the hat at one side. ' Striking indeed and : particularly stunning for a youthful wearer is this wrap (2676) of spotted leopard arith lk . . . with red fox on -the wide sleeves owA -.:-...! - a ' i 1 1 , V 8 8 all the way to the hem. - The loose- wraP lines with enormous sleeves Txr.r..!r:;.::. oiuuua caumauuu U - x i .i. " '"'" au me. grace ana elegance of an evening wrap. me new tur wraps are longer, since . frocks are longer, . and most wraps-have enormous collars that muffle throat and shoulders. The mink wrap pictured here (9276) is one of the handsomest models of the winter and shows the variation in arrangement of Delta that is a tea., ture this season. - The wrap has loose straight lines, yet suggests graceful drapery when the arms are raised. Mink is especially fashion- able now because of the favor for, brown tones In mslnmpa - . Madeira embroidered linens, as displayed in some shops at sur- pri&iagiy low price, are not always. genuine Madeira pieces and it is well, to know real Madeira .work when you see it. There is a beauty and d, , afcout Made!ra 1jnena . ,.. that make these linens always treas- . nred hp!nntHnc nf tht hnutcwiffl J ' 77 a ' who appreciates their value; ana the simple, graceful Madeira patterns a, wand of Madeira. bv , women ' in nnrn hnnoa TVia ntnulr 4a " brought to them and called for when """"" ' finished. - The material is taken out """' vommcomtiii ol a season by representatives of various - em- broidery firms, and ' the stamped P'eces are distributed to the women whose deft fingers convert the plain linen into ' articles 'of exquisite beauty. The Madeira woman works with a very short needle and she never uses" an embroidery hoop. She never works by artificial light. There are long, long hours of daylight at her disposal and she sits outside her hut o-BtUnn- full iilianlirnnf thB clear light and soft air. For em- broidering your exquisite 18-inch centerpiece she gets about 60 cents, But to b.er the 6fl cents ls an excel- 34Z3- lent price, for living expenses are cheap and her wants are few. Real Madeira embroidery , usually is done in linen, but not always, and here is the word of warning.. You . " may get, at a bargain price, genu- , . . . ... me maaetra embroidery, out not me linen which makes your handsome embroidery worth buying for home arma tm.tto,a Bla8t ana sta.mp an( cu- u jn0 centerDieceS, dOilles and other articles for distribution among the embroiderers, and not on tne lesa desirable "union" distributed i few em- among the natives by broldery concerns, m 'm , One simply "must wear low shoes md slippers this winter to be in mode. High shoes may be com- fortable, but they are not smart and give the wearer that look of. middle- age, preferring comfort to style, that the youthful woman and the would-be youthful woman carefully ovoid. : Still, one does not want to freeze; and there are a good many women who are so uncomfortably chilly in thin siik. stockings in freezinE wea- i i ,, . ' , . ... , ' ' i .k i . in pockets and gathered In the back. It ther that they really suffer, striving hose will keep you! Cut the toes ls B4 inches wide and 36 Inches long and to be smart. That is, they did suf- from the 'stockings that are to be has three-Inch hem. The ooat Is 28 Inches fer last winter. This year relief , donned underneath, so that y Jit which .id'UitS has been provided for them in the slippers may not pinch or feel tight, j nave been wondering if it would be way of diaphanous wool stockings, and fasten the garter clasps through possible to make It over as the other so gauay-and soft that the whole both stockings at the top. Old tVTTonT stocking, can be drawn through a white silk stockings will do well i am 19 years old, 5 feet 844 Inches finger, ring, yet cosily warm when for the purpose or you can wear tall and slender Have medium brown , . . , . . , , . , . - hair and dark blue eyes. Not much color, the sheer, flesh-tinted wool hose are black ones. But avoid tint in . but ls my own. what T nave. Tnanklne onned under,silk stockings. -These hosiery except the palest flesh tint, you, I am. sincerely. BABE, under-stockings of sheer wool cost There is a new silk stocking for Babe. Recut your Jacket after a tidy price about 4 a .pair but which you can buy new feet when tn6 sketch No. 2 and have machine they are worth it, in saving doctors' the original stocking foot has worn embroidered in the silver and black bills and the suffering attendant on out. All you have to do is to cut or n an allover iralded design, colds in the head or other disorders ' off the original foot along a line using- for the latter the black sou- that come from getting ' chilled indicated in the -weave and sew on f ache. The gray duvetyn doe for through. the. new 'foot, which is exactly the thecollarand the set-on deep cuffs If you .cannot afford a pair of right shape to fit the specially-made wiI1 add much to the appearance of these flesh-colored - wool under- stocking. Tou can buy extra feet your dreBs. From the sketch made . . when you purchase your stockings , r . ,a . .... , stockings, try wearing two pairs of you can nave the stockings re- in No'. 1 1 would 8ay that tha lap Silk stockings; you will be surprised footed for you when they begin to over 0331 06 Produced because of the to find how warm two pairs of silk wear out. fullness in the coat front, but if not -- .then cut the collar of duvetyn with Pf (Moms of by -MadamRicHer SALEM, Or., Dso. 27. Dear Madam Rlchet: - I am a elrl 16 years of age, J .fee f llllf1' bJT? "5" Jr,?w Ey 'in nav&nce. inc r iAft.irr-r.it. rpHE FLAPPER, Salem, Of. If J you are going to Florida for . . the w'nter and you wish to be "fashionably, then, kind reader, you must cast aside tne flapper type. you sign yourself to be and become the more classic and long-sklHed fcelne- with a coil rather than a bob cemg, wltn a con ratner man a ood and graceful carriage rather than tne athlete's stride. However, keep some of that fine wholesome energy for the golf course, the tennis '.ourt and the beach sports. A good looking dress for the trav- vlfncr vnn will do WOUld be One of green, smoked gray of the darker smoke, or a fawn in a poirei. twill with the black bindings of sat.n or troadclota. and the good looking col- 2676- ?x?e& govs' . Dr GsmakinX lar and cuff set of the organdy folds, ..,. tl,, , ,,. coat seen in the January Elite cage p u no. ms.. A stunning frock for the afternoon will be found on page 20, No. 4967-D, same issue. The matelasse will be , ... . even more popular this spring han the fall or winter has made it and such a gown will meet the tea hour and the informal d;aner with perfect correctness and style. A light gray with the black and silver ill the matelasse portion will be attractive aDO seasoname. A cnarming ainner frock will be seen in the Designer lor December, page 77, No. 410T A black satin back crepe with the cloth of silver for the facing and the all-OVer Steel beading for the design would work out stunningly, This type will be good in tha com- '''X season. i or tue evening sown or tne dance frcck there is a fetching model shown in the Fashionable Dress for December, page 37, No. 2426. if you are sufficiently slender to wear this type I am sure that you will like it ii a lovely light blue taffeta with the silver and the pink flowers as a trimming. A cape suitable for the evening and the dinner hour will ba found in the Butterick quarterly of winter, page 5, No. 40-09. The black satin is always good looking and the crepe romaine has much style as well. For the bathing suit theie is the taffeta with the pleated skirt and the short sleeves with generous armhole that you shall have room for the swimming. Another month will picture more definitely the sport clothes Rnd aa a foreword in material I can say that the crepes in all varieties will be very popular. Two stunning sport ' blouses appear in the January Elite page 13, No. 4923 and No. 4925. These in the heavy linens or the crepe will be very attractive. The sccond pamed in a white with the green striping would seem unusually smart Kindly let me know if I can be of further help to you. PORTLAND, Or.. Dee. 20. Dear Ma dam Rlchet: I am to be maid of honor at a formal church wedding to be held at noon. I have a sleeveless crepe ro maine sown for the occasion and thought when I bought it that I could match it In some suitable material to have tempo rary sleeves, but find I am unable to do so. As sleeveless gowns are now worn at morning and afternoon functions, I am wondering If it would be permis sible to wear this sleeveless gown with very long gloves at the wedding. The bride's gown has short sleeves. Could you please let me know as soon as possible, as the wedding is to be la the near future. Yours very truly, A. G. R. A. G. R. With the gown you have why not add the lace sleeva in the flowing style, which is stunningly graceful, and then the lace can. al wnys be used for a blouse or fcarf afterward when the sleeves have served their mission. It would hardly look' well for you to be more "bride like" than the bride, and the sleeve less gown with the long g'.oves wjuld certainly make you so appear. You do not mention the shade of y.'ur gown and so I cannot say 3ust which color of lace to use. I hope the frock Is a cream-white and that you can use the same shade of lace. If colored, then a silver lace will be lovely. If I can be of further aid in making the event as 'ar as you are enrolled more perfest, let me hear from you. The winter quar terly of the McCali3, page 3, No. , 287.1, will give an example of the sleeve I have in mind, and if too long, you can be the judge of where you wish the length to terminate, PORTLAND, Or., Dec 19. Dear Ma dam Rlchet: I have a suit like sample. I wish to make it into a three-piece suit, leaving coat just as It is. My skirt is 56 inches wide and is torn across top like picture; 1 Inches below waist line. What kind of goods and color would be best to combine with it? and please suggest a nice way of making It. I have light brown hair, light brown eyes. 5 feet 5 inches tall, 41 inch bust, 42 inch hips, weigh IRS pounds, fair com plexion. 32 years old. How should I trim? DORIS V. How very fortunate for you that the long bloused line is still In . style and the tear in your skirt just where it is, for the model as shown in the Butterwick winter quarterly, page 16, No. 3923, will solve happily and stylishly your problem. With, jour blue broadcloth use either the matelasse or the figured canton, blending the latter in a color com bination well linked to the shade of your material. If in a matelasse, then the dark blue with the silver threading. The joining of the skirt and blouse will be lower than hown in picture, but that will not matter In the least with the present line 6tyle. - . Dear Madam Rlchet: I am at a loss to decide what to do with a dark blue trl cotine suit, box back, two years old, which is In good condition, but needs a change. The skirt is plain two-piece, set- a squared line of generous width at the bottom, which will hide the ex tra which you may have to add to gain the "to the side line." The tight sleeves are not at all incor rect and the cuff as suggested will add real 6tyle to the garment. A gray hat with the bit of hand work in the black or the dark blue will Madam Richet : I ' have 2 S i crepe de chine 33 inches wide, like tha sample enclosed. Please plan a dress for me, telling what color, etc., to combine witn it , ao not want a ..fU8sy.. dresa but one suitable for much afternoon wear. I am not an accomplished dress- ls aifflctilt to make. I prefer McCall or Pictorial patterns. 1 am 27 years old, weight 152 height 5 teet g inches, brown hair and eyes, pienty of color. Thanking you in ad vance. INTERESTED. Interested, Junction City, Or.. The crepe you send is very pretty in shade but rather thin In quality, and so 'I, would advise you to use the brown for the blouse with a darker shade of the same family for the skirt, beading the side front with, the steel and copper beads, the lat- (Coiiiuded on Fage 6.)