Women, Churches, Books,
Schools and Features
SECTION FIVE
VOL. XLI i'OKTLAXD. OREGON, SUNDAY MORNING. DECE31ISEK 17, 1922 ' ' NO. 51
I . ' ' " ' : .
GAY AND ELABORATE FROCKS APPEAR FOR THE DEBUTANTES
Favored Afternoon, Dinner and Informal Evening Dress Is of Velvet Black Dresses Are Brightened by Touches of Gold or Silver or by Dash of Color in Girdle Ornament and Earrings Match Costume in Color
THE smart set reserves Decem
ber for its young- folks. The
debs make their bow early in
the month and the holiday season
around Christmas is the gala time
of the children and of the boys and
girls home from school and college.
Of course other important social
doings occur in December, but it is
really the young folks' month and
many are the plans for gaieties that
serve mostly youth.
Not that matrons and mothers and
brides and girls in their second sea
son do not have to have stunning
clothes, too, to attend the various
coming out teas and dances and
d'nners given to the debutantes; but
It is the debs who are star perform
ers and who know that all the
gaiety has been planned for their
cake. The opera has had its open
ing night and is in full swing. The
horse show has taken place. No
vember weddings are out of the way.
Invitations for all the big affa'rs
before Christmas are out and each
day of early December launches
several new debutantes into the
whirl of social gaiety. Tou see their
pictures in the morning newspaper
Miss So and So, daughter of Mrs.
Bo and So, introduced to society yes
terday afternoon. And every para
graph of the kind means a coming
out reception followed by a dance
and then a series of dinners and
dances given for the young aspirant
to social honors. And all this means
clothes oh dear, yes! Clothes and
clothes and clothes a veritable
trousseau of wraps and f-illeurs and
hats, of dance frocks, slippers and
fans, of velvet and crepe afternoon
frocks, of furs and handbags and
what not for every occasion from
an informal luncheon of 12 or so;
or a little matinee party of eight, to
somebody'u ,huge dance or the
opera in the evening. And this
round of gaiety every day and every
evening means numerous changes of
costume.
The favored afternoon frock, din
ner frock and Informal (evening
frock this season is of velvet. Day
time velvet frocks of black or very
dark brown; velvet dresses for eve
ning wear in lovely shades of sil
ver gray, flame, rose and blue. Most
debutantes wear all the black they
can. It is their grown-up preroga
tive and well they know how black
sets off their girlish freshness! Be
sides it is extremely fashionable.
Though it was prophesied last spring
that black was on the wane and that
Paris would lave do more of it,
black frocks, suits and wraps con
tinue to be In evidence at every
fashionable gathering.
Black velvet dresses for debu
tantes, however, are usually bright
ened in some way by touches of gold
or silver or by a dash of color in
girdle ornament and the debutante
carefully matches her Inevitable
earrings to the dash of color in her
costume. Whoever else leaves her
earrings at home, the debutante
never does. A charming black velvet
afternoon frock for a young girl
has a straight, rather clinging lit
tle bodice with snug sleeves to the
wrist and a circular skirt is at
tached to a low waistline. This wide,
circular skirt Is faced at the hem
with white satin and at the girdle
is a huge "flower" made of white
fur. A small black velvet hat with
a strip of white fur nestling in the
turned-up brim goes with this cos
tume and a long string of carved
white beads give the completing
note of white.
Many ot tne brown velvet after
noon dresses tor" debutantes have
deep berthas of cream lace to the
elbow. This is a style that Is for
youth only and fond grandmammas
are donating their stock of price
less old lace for the berthas of deb
granddaughters this season. Most
of the velvet frocks worn by very
young woman have long close
eleeves to the wrist, or no sleeves
at all; and the neckline Is rounded
or boat-shaped. Several velvet
dresses have been noted .with a
button-down-ihe-back effect, par
ticularly when a deep lace bertha
was attached to the neckline.
The very prettiest tallleurs are
worn by the debutantes for these
gay and charming suits are to be
had only in the 34 and 36 sizes In
the misses' department. They are
smart and Parisian with their oddly
shaped sleeves, draped skirts,
lappedacross jackets and Interesting
trimmings of braid, fluting and fur.
A suit of the sort is of black wool
rep, the huge sleeves almost cov
ered with scrolls of gray silk braid
and there are flutings of the rep
on sleeve and collar, the collar turn
ing back to show a- fluted white fac
ing. The jacket laps to the left
hip and fastens with a metal clasp
and the skirt drapery laps also and
makes a graceful cascade below the
jacket-clasp.
saost of these pretty little debu
tante tailleurs are in the three-piece
style, with a blouse or tunlo at
tached to the skirt, and if the suit
was only a skirt and jacket model
its purchaser makes haste to have a
blouse Incorporated with it, for any
tailored skirt coming up over a
blouse and suggesting a normal or
bigher than normal waistline Is
hopelessly old-fashioned.
Therefore the tub waist and the
lace waist are occupying a place of
obllvio.. this season. Nobody wears
a lace waist that tucks under her
skirt and nobody wears a tub shirt
waist except with a spcrt suit on
the golf links.
A young woman looking for "a
neat, simple little serge dress for
mornings" complained , the other
day, "there simply are no plain blue
serge dresses this year; they all
tave white or gray or tan facings
or some kind of fancy braided yokes
or sleeves that will soil immediately
and they are cut in the most fancy
ways." This is tr'ie. it is all ut
Impossible now to pick up a simple
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and serviceable blue serge frock and
one wonders how the business girl
manages. The latest addition to blue
serge trotter frocks Is a Jenny in
novation. She puts tall white linen
cuffs (way above the elbow) -on the
long sleeves of navy serge frocks,
and embroiders the linen cuffs with
dark blue. .Fortunately these cuffs
are detachable and may be sent to
the cleaners not waBhed, for they
are bound all around with the serge.
Very charming for the young
women are monogram frocks of
blue or tan wool jersey, and .some
of these frocks are of white or pale
gray flannel. . A pleated skirt is
dropped below the very low sash
that loops at one side, and the long
waisted bodice hast dainty turned
back cuffs and collar: and the
wearer's monogram embroidered on
a breast pocket. -
Simple hats accompanied by dash
ing earrings are affected by debu
tantes of this season. And the.
younger the maid the bigger the
ear drops! The hat pictured (2798)
is of cocoa brown duvetyn with a
trimming of the material in shirred
puffs. The brim has a flexible roll
and the soft crown of duvetyn Is
punched in Softly also the whole
hat 'with its puffed trimming has a
soft outline. The earrings are of
topaz with the yellowish lights that
harmonize with a brown hat.
Any age can wear dashing shapes
in millinery, but only youth may
dare dashing colors. This (2760)
winter hat for a debutante la of
brown velvet and the big bow is of
flame-colored satin ribbon with
fringes of flame ostrich finishing
off the ribbon ends. The bow is
gracefully arranged, with soft loops
drawn obliquely downward from a
high-placed knot.
Almost every debutante is a sym
phony in gray in one of her winter
costumes and nobody looks lovelier
in gray than the fresh young girl
The frock pictured (2651) is part of
a three-piece suit the jacket, not
in the picture, loose and clasped at
one hip with a steel ornament and
trimmed with gray fox. The skirt
of the fr'ock, like the jacket, is of
cinder-gray duvetyn and the at
tached blouse is of gray crepe with
embroidery in self tone and silver
thread. The straight skirt Is grace
fully lifted at one hip to make a
soft drapery. - .
Even though this suit (1818) is
black trimmed with -gray and som
ber in tone, it is suitable for youth
because of its dashing style. It
comes from Agnes and is a typical
French tallleur in its distinction
and chic. Jacket and skirt are of
black wool rep. with elaborate em
broidery of silver gray braid on the
sleeves and a trimming of fluting
made of the rep on sleeve and col
lar. The collar is faced with white
satin, also fluted.
The cunningest kit ever for an
overnight guest who is not sup
posed to have with her sewing Im
plements, yet may want to take
folds of fabric that droop over the
upper arm, doing away with the
conspicuously bare effect of former
seasons.
Every woman wears a head-dress
of some sort, from a smart Spanish
comb or a bandeau of little roses
to a glittering affair of metal and
lewels. Gloves are worn, or not
worn, as one pleases, but earrings
and a fan are part of every opera
costume.
This is the season when the
happy folk who have open fire
places are in f their element. Tou
can hear them mention casually in
the presence of poor apartment
house dwellers: "Yes, the mornings
are crisp but we light a woodfire
In the dining room." Or, "The open
fire in our living-room gives just
enough heat to be pleasant after
dinner evenings." People who sac
rifice the comfort, the charm and
the "atmosphere" of open fireplaces
in order to have steam heated
apartments mostly without . even
mantlepieces, to say nothing of
porches, pantries or other good old
home comforts have to pretend
they prefer the sizzle of a steam
radiator to the snap of leaping
flames on the hearth; but the lucky
possessor of a fireplace should
make the very most of it at this
season.
The fireplace is the very heart of
the hpme, nd through long years
of life the man or woman who as
a child played on the hearth-rug
before an open fire, or toasted
chestnuts or popped corn or hung
up Christmas stockings at the fire
side, carries those memories in
heart as the dearest and most vivid
memories of home. Do not neglect
your privilege if your- home boasts
a fireplace even if the steam ra
diators give plenty of heat. Have
the hearthstone bright and shining,
the andirons gleaming and the fire
snapping and crackling when the
children and the men folks get home
at dusk. i
A man sitting before an open fire
with pipe and tobacco near by and
the poker and tongs handy to re
adjust fallen logs is usually in an
expansive and . mellow mood; and
the very sight of the cheery fire
when he comes in tired after a day's
work gives him a thrilling reminder
about "what a comfortable place
home Is best place in the world!"
A hundred dollars spent for and-
. irons, tongs, bellows, fender and
neck Is coming In and is frequently some short logs is' well expended
seen at the opera. Though most and will hold the family together
evening gowns are without sleeves better than the handsomest velvet
there "is usually a filmy drapery, or pbrtieres or lace window draperies.
Prdbloms f DresmakmX
' bij Madam RicKdr
PNION Or, Dee 8- Dear Madam The fastening can still be at the side
Rlchet: Picas choose for me a pattern an(j with the button trim, as shown,
bv which I may bo able to make over a -.m ,,i iiv Tmit
beaded blue satlo- The dresa Is mado the plan will work out nicely. Your
with a drop skirt, sham and two apron- seam of joining should be made at a
like pieces for the oversklrt, both nav- j waistline as shown In the front
lly beaded and entirely separate from
each other The waist consists of two panel's bottom line. The set-in will
straight pieces dropping from the should- no detract the slightest from the
YXVulPXeZKZtTJ style ' the frock. With the high
beaded to resemble the skirt. The sleeves neck now lined in sketch, it will be
are moderately large and flare at the an eaay matter to cut down,
i i h,v are nliehtly beaded.
The color is lighter than navy and the
satin la of heavy quality.
- I also have a black taffeta that I
should be glad to be able to use, but
cannot as it now is. The skirt can prob
ably be used as -it Is. It is made of two
straight lengths trimmed with bands of
tucking appnea in P""'lB:n.i" fZr Vack "hop for one. Could you give the name
too small: is made on a lining, tne nacK " wh .mi v
a plain blouse effect, the front a "
basque made by gathering a center piece model from
cording"" This is plain black taffeta and Polly H. For the Bport type of
probably can be matched easily. coat such as you would wear for the
ab'ourio'o'pound-my everyday need. I would suggest that
40, waist 31, hips 41. I am 40 years of you use either the camel's hair, vi-
ag. . , , cuna or the marleen cloth, the latter
a bit more dressy but still very
lours truiy, good lor tne tauorea lines, aii ma
Madam Rlchet: I am in need of a good
everyday sport coat and something that
haa style as well. Please suggest a mod
el and the materials that are right for
that kind of a coat. T see so many
good looking ones on other people but
cannot seem to get the style when I
tailor who will copy
fashion book? Tours in
POLLY H.
GRACE SMITH.
Elite Styles for January there is
GJtACE SMITH, Union, Or. The Bnown a page of coats well suited to
nvodel I. have in mind will work your desires, I feel sure. On page 5,
out stunningly for your blue satin. thfl garment numbered 4896 D. is
If you will see the January Elite yery aUractjve ana should you wish
styles on Page 25, No. 4999 D.. you tne strictiy tailored collar rather
will readily see what a wonderful than tne one juat numbered, the
srown you can have by combining mj(jdie figure will afford that line. -
your satin with a midnight blue vel- Tne garment "filled" usually looks
vet, using the latter for the skirt better, than when held up before us
and diamond motifs and using one of or wnen on the model, who is usually
the beaded aurons for the velvet row. natlesa arid surrounded by the racks
The other apron will help in making or cases 0f apparel and therefore can
the sash Trim with a fur Danomg
in the mole or the sealskin. This is
quite the most interesting frock in
line combination values that I could
suggest.
not give the "atmosphere" which ac
companies the wearer on the street
with the proper setting. Then, too,
it would seem a human trait to like
what the "other fellow' has just a
Match your tafreta and follow the llttie mjte more, and so. kind reader.
lines of the blouse in the same issue, g0 on witn your shopping and I am
page 13, No. 4923. The tucked motif gure that ln the st0cks of our suit
can be used in the blouse front as departments you will find what you
you have sketched and I would have wjsn and Portland has some splendid
tne bindings of the rich red duvetyn, si,ops where the type of coat you
also the buttons. This will make an wlsn Is carrierj, some of the English
attractive one-piece dress which can imported. I cannot mention specifi-
be made in that line without really caIly the names of these places.
joining. If you cannoi ooiaiii mo
pattern book in your city send for
one, as the models selected are
perfect for your -make overs."
PORTLAND, Or., Dec. 4. Dear Mad
am Richet: I have a dark blue whipcord
suit, rather an old style, which I would
like to make into a one-piece dress. The
skirt ifl ln four pieces, the front and
back are wide witn a narrow gore on
ASTORIA, Or., Dec 13. Dear Madam:
Please tell me which will be better for
office wear, a trlcotine or serge? Which
will wrinkle least where one must ait
for hours at a time? Also please suggest
the best material for underwear, such as
combinations, camisoles, etc. We lost al
most all our clothes in the fire and the
things 1 buy now must be ready made
and ordered by mall.
My daughter is 12 years old and will.
either side ' As the skirt is long and has for tne present, nave to nave an an-
a good hem 1 tried to raise it and take round dress. What would you advise
out the: side gores, but that does not me to get for her? This, too. must be
leave quite enough fullness through the ready made. Many thanks, L. H. P. .
hips. 1 . Mrs. I H. P Astoria, Or From
, ' ;,'.-. The- jacaet in a iuhui oiic xuc
season ' more brilliant than ; they1 or -, diamond ' ornaments. ; Many em- is- a seam under the , .tltcBed-oa fold in personal experience I have
have been forbears. Silver is .pre-', erald green .wraps , are- noted,and - ft? IjT! tK&U h" S- .t"'" "Sv
eminent but: gold Is gaining -in dis-, red. velvet wraps are- tremendously landing fur one. but I do not care for ooe l Bnlne ' ' f. , ;
Hunt Inn T ril... . 0 i trnvonM amarf J 1 . i ' it. - ca.., uua lmo bu. e, h.i.j j iu uj,
made of silver "or gold' cloth with
slippers "and. stockings to match, ! bouffant:
:t ' 1 am 5 feet 9 mcnea tan, o years oia cav fnr thA HorirA that Ita wAnrlnp
Debutantes "are; wearing" ' sauoy' .a weigh 110 pounds. .My color is not . ,
f ho-. very good. I have dark curly hair and qu"-y. wuen goua i" so-
blue eyes. Thank you for your help. li-cted, Is Iron clad. The braid
. Mria. r: u. v.
frocks . of .shot . taffeta.
a tons, safety pins, thimble. ' darning1 around "the' edge 4 and -under the and a silver or-gold bandeau .In the, made - with extended . hlpllne ; and
stitch in glove or lace collar, is in cotton and ' so on: ! Each spool . of r leaves' .a .1 g-atnered .'lace : frill. The hair. - - A, queen of Sheba , could -be-- many cunning puffings and flutings.
the disguise of a colorful bouquet .thread or silk is tucked in a bag- of ' scissors slip "through loops on the no more gorgeously arrayed! ,' Net and, tulle frocks do not seem to
one of those prim early Victorian corresponding shade and the needles stem of the bouquet and the stem Next Ho glittering - costumes .of : be the mode this winter. ;
nosegays that have massed posies have a flat case to themselves. . is ' made of green .. velvet . wound silver ..or'gold. statuesque gowns'of ," The opera, decolletage la not ex-
a..nni4A V... n I . .... V . , .... ... . .. . . . . . . ' .
uj urn vt aw paper.-:. . The little bags are made ortaffeta" arouua wire. , -t ., o ,
1M P"es in tne guest room bou- in various shades cornflower blue.' , V -f.-w.?: f Tit They have little trimming save for. tne bateau line in front descending hip there can be a set-In panel of
quet are really little plump bags of delphinium blue, fuchsia,-rose. morn- - Metal brocades,-' silver and gold one, gleaming ' girdle -ornament of lower at the back. ' A ahoulder-atrap black' satin, the upper portion laid
colorful silk, each bag containing tng glory, violet, heliotrope.' daffo-, trimmings ' and tlssr.esr wcven- of crystal and rhinestones.- . " on one shoulder and drapery on the In tucks Your sleeves can be made
some needful for the stitch In time dil, primrose and other flower tints. metal thread :tiake h- costun - Mldd oaged matrons art king to' other bJ a classic .effect 'to the' a bit more closely fitted and the
nook and eyes, snappers, glove but- Stiff green - velvet leaves . are -set worn-rat metropolitan opera tiiw black, .velvet, .with.ropes. of -pearls, simple- crepe gowns.. .The: square buttons of black crochet or 'satin.
tr,mmed dresses are "very suitable
; Mrs.i,F: C. D. In the Elite for Jan- (cr the office and give one the ap-
uary there is shown a very effective pearance of being well "groomed."
frock, page 48, No. 6131 D. Use this For the easily tu&bed garments
for the general line and that there thnrn in - the nnne-AA. which. nn
clinging.crepe fabrics -are favored, treme this "year.: Many gowns havavmay be sufficient fullness over the ycu perhaps know, comes in manv
hades. The hemstitched styles are
good and rather seem to go with
this fabric. ,.
For your daughter there will be
iCoacluded on Pag J.