THE SUNDAY OREGONIAN , POKTLAJfD, DECEMBER 10, 1923
HIGH-STOCK COLLAR IS SMART
FOR INDIFFERENT TO COMFORT
Tall Waistcoat for Wear Over Blouse With Tailored Street Jacket
- Is Slipped Over Shoulders.
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THE hi&h ctock collar is unques
tionably smart, and French
women who do not care so
much for comfort as for chic are
going in enthusiastically for these
choker effects. American women
refuse to have high, close collars on
their frocks and blouses, but occa
sionally one may be extremely a la
mode In a high-collared waistcoat
which may be taken off when one
is tired of being trussed up about
the throat.
A tall collared waistcoat for wear
over,, your blouse, with your tailored
street jacket, is pictured. You slip
It over your shoulders, fasten up
the smart, snug collar and tie the
eash ends at the back and there
you are. The waistcoat is made of
black silk and wool material faced
with white satin and has tiny amber
PrbblQitis f DrsmakinX
; by .MadamRiclver
(Continued From First Page.)
used in another dress. In model
No. 2 I would have the couar and
sleeve facing of a figured canton
crepe.
Your serge can be lengthened by
adding a cuff Df the same black
n.atching, or let down from the
waist adding a blouse in a figured
material such as shown in the model
No. 3923, page 16, same issue above
mentioned.
PORTLAND, Or., Nov. 13. Dear
Madam Richet: What kind and color
of goods would you advise to make up
with enclosed sample? 1 have a dress
of it now, but want to make it over.
There will be only enough for a skirt.
I am 13 years old. Thanking you, I am,
HIGH SCHOOL SOPHOMORE.
High School Sophmore In the
winter quarterly of the Butterick
issue there is just the dress for you.
I am sure that "out of the wreck"
tnere will be enough material to
make the straps as shown, letting
them trim the blouse of warm sand
which Is so attractive in combina
tion with a bottle green mummy
cloth such as yours. The front of
your blouse and the back as well
should be run with the matching
green worsted. Either a jersey cloth
or a canton will be correct for the
blouse.
WOODBURN, Or., Nov. 14. Dear
Madam Richet: Will you please tell me
what colors to use in working the en
closed motif on natural linen ? It is to
be a centerpiece a yard square. I thank
you very much. LILLIAN.
Lillian, Woodburn, Or. The body
of the peacock in an emerald green,
the legs in brown and the tail in
royal blue, lighter green and gold
with the tall tips in red. The center
figure should be worked out in the
same scheme as well as the tiny
ones. The design is most interesting
and I am sure that it w ill be beauti
ful when in colors. Be sure that the
materials with which you work are
not too heavy, as so much of the
daint'ness of the design is lost when
too weighted.
Dear Madam Richet: I have a dress
I want to make over. The skirt is
rather narrow at the bottom, 60 inches
around, and the sleeves are too tight.
There is a long, loose pane! in trie back
from the neck down to the bottom of
skirt, it is 11 inches wide. I would like
io combine it wiTh some other material
as I haven't enough material to make
ftl&ttvea, 1 am, 20 years, old, have dark
buttons. Metal rings in copper
shade are sewed, on like beads m a
band trimming.
Odd designs and bright colors are
so smart now that merely graceful
and dainty room belongings seem
to lack something. Even book
covers now are printed in "new
art" designs that are gay and
charming without the least relation
to the story they enfold. For the
dresser are these cheerful little
ornament that are not old-fashioned
soft-hed pink or blue in tone, but
a modern conglomeration of the
gayest, brightest colors that some
how blend into attractive harmony.
The perfume bottle, shaped some
thing like a diminutive Indian club,
has a black top and a white middle
and the green perfume shows
through yellow glass dashed with
gold. The powder box is covered
with silk that has black, blue and
yellow printings on the ground.
hair and gray eyes, some color; am 5
feet inches tall and weigh 125
pounds. Please help me out with this
problem. I prefer the McCall patterns.
Thanking you for any help you can give
me, ANXIOUS WIFE.
An Anxious Wife, Vancouver,
Wash. Your problem can be easily
solved if you will turn to the au
tumn quarterly of the issue you
mention, page 15, No. 2710. Com
bine your blue French serge with
a canton crepe or satin in the same
shade, embroidering the serge in a
taupe rope silk, following the de
lightful pattern pictured on the
model. The neck has a fitted band
which will be effective in your case
with your height. I would em
broider the serge following the line
of that band rather than the latter
named, for you can wear the bolder
and broader line. The panel at the
back of your dress should make
good in the role of "piece" maker
in making wider the sleeves anu
the band of new material will .add a
pleasing finish with hand work
above.
PORTLAND, Or., Nov.-22. Dear Mad
am Richet: Please plan a dark blue wool
dress, either Poiret twill or ratine. Sug
gest pattern and trimming. Am 48 years
old. weight 155. Hair medium brown,
sprinkled very little with gray. Have
blue eyes. Am 5 feet 8 inches tali;
chest 38, waist 28. hips 44. I want some
thing distinctive for afternoon and street
wear. Thanking you. sincerely,
MRS. Q. R. B.
Mrs. G. R. B. You are tall and
though rather generous in the hip
line I am sure that the stunning
model I have in mind will appeal
to you for the braided strip will
"cut" the width. In the combination
have the Poiret twill or gaberdine,
the facings of red duvetyn and the
braiding of black soutache. Wear a
stunning cut jet buckle. The frock
will please you, I feel sure, and will
be found in the Style for December,
page iy, No. s-6002.
Madam Richet: Please plan combina
tions for dresses which will be proper to
wear in the alternoon. doner and at
dancing party, quite formal. I know the
lines I want but the combinations are
my problems and I am sure that you can
help me as you have so many others.
Gratefully yours, OUT-OF-TOWN.
Out-of-Town You omitted a very
important list which gives your
colorings, proportions, age and
weight. Color values and weight
kav much, to do, yes, all to 40
with the figure upon which they
are to be worn. And so rearrange
the color scheme if what I suggest
does not suit you.
For the afternoon dress one of
smoked gray broadcloth with the ;
tab trimming for the collar, sleeve I
trim and two front panels and the j
one at center back, using the red ,
iridescent beads and the lacquered
rings in the same match as the
beads. The beading should be in
the solid line work.
A wonderful combination for the
dinner gown will he found in yel
low or fuchsia chiffon with the
pearl bead trimming.
The evening gown of panne in a
lapis lazuli blue draped and caught
at the hip line with a stunning
buckle of silver of cut steel makes
for grace and distinction.
I shall take the liberty o adding
the combination for the evening
wrap to be worn with the latter two
gowns. One of satin cloth in a
burnt orange shade, the exagger
ated mandarin sleeves embroidered
in the metallic embroideries.
CRESWELIi, Or., Nov. 2a Dear
Madam Richet: I am inclosing samples
of material and sketches of the coat and
dress I wish, to combine. Do you think
they would make too heavy a dress?
Kindly suggest a pattern. Would like to
make so I could wear In the spring with
my fur. I am 5 feet 7 inches tall, dark
brown eyes, black hair turning gray,
weigh 165 pounds, 44 years of age. I
would be grateful to nave you plan a
black silk canton crepe for me, making
It ud with some color. Please answer in
The Sunday1 Oregonlan. Thanking you in
advance, ckjj.hwiul.1j.
Creswell, Creswell, Or. "With the
delightful height you enjoy you can
wear well the dress as, shown in the
Butterick winter quarterly on page
24, No. 3571. The blouse of plush
would be very attractive embroid
ered in the silver metaline in the
machine-made design. In addition
to the model's line I would have a
strap of the plush trimming, the
left front evde also embroidered.
The rever and cuffs will be most
effective in the plain plush, letting
the embroidered blouse and sleeve
produce the contrast. A broadcloth
would combine with the piled ma
terial better than the twill you in
close as sample, but the latter is
not at all out of place.
PORTLAND. Or., Nov. 20. Madam
Kichet: I have two yards of 40-inch ma
terial like inclosed sample. What could
I get to combine with it for an informal
evenine dress suitable tm wear In a small
town? Am 6 feet 7 inches tall, weight
145 pounds, bust 36 Inches, waist 26
inches, hips 39 inches, age 24. Have
brown hair and blue eyes and rather
fair skin. MRS. HARTLEY.
Mrs. Hartley With the salmon
shade of India crepe I can "Bee" for
you such a charming frock. The
blouse or cream crepe de chine, also
the panels beaded in the salmon
corai beads. The model shown in
the Pictorial's winter quarterly will 1
work as well as the all-over pat
tern for the beading. See page 31,
No. 1362. Join the skirt and blouse
under the strips of the two mater
ials which have been braided into a
stunning girdle. A lovely flower of
the silver placed at the left side
will add much to the "chic" touch
which I am sure you desire having.
This combination will be beautiful
and twill serve the occasions at
which one wears the informal eve
ning gown.
It is always a pleasure to welcome
readers of this column.
Dear Madam Richet: Have 4 yards
of inclosed sample, 36 inches wide, of
which I wish to make best dress for
school parties, also Sunday wear, for my
14 - year - old daughter. Height 5 feet
weight 110 pounds, dark hair and eyes,
rosy cheeks: wears hair bobbed. Will
wear with this navy-blue wrap, felt hat
matching taffeta's shade.
Please plan me a dress that will give
slender lines, as she is small frame,
rather plump. MOTHER.
Mother With rosy cheeks I would
like to "see" a trimming of emerald
green taffeta for the flowers, which
line in length of the side of model
No. 4013, page 54, Butterick Quar
terly for winter. The sleeves can
be made longer. Should this style
be more dressy than you desire,
then will you kindly see in the same
Issue on page 56, No. '3741, which
with the green pipings will be most
attractive and the collar and cuffs
of green. The little applique trim
done in the orange, green and old
blue. Th'-s is always a splendid
type for a stout girl.
LAKEVIEW. Or. Madam Richet: Will
you suggest style for dress like Inclosed
serge? Have 1-3 yard duvetyn like
sample. Is it suitable to use for trim-
mine or vestee for serge? Desire con
servative dress for general wear without
embroidery or beading. Am 5 feet Z inch,
45 years of age, brown hair slightly
srray. blue eyes, poor color, round face,
weight about 85 pounds. Prefer some sort
of collar and not very low In neck.
Kindly answer in Sunday Oregonian if
possible. MRS. G. H. H.
Mrs. G. H. H., iakeview, Or.-
The tan duvetyn you inclose as a
possible trimming for the lovely
blue serge, would be in perfect taste
had you good color, but I think the
tan rather deflective t -id would
suggest & rich red pepper tliade of
duvetyn, using it, for the collar and
Bkirt trim after the model shown
on page 87, No. 1383, December Pic
torial Review. The collar will af
ford a very pretty trim and the
i shape is good. The vest I would
have of the serge.
LA GRANDE, Or., Nov. 21. Dear Mad
am Richet: This morning I wrote you and
was in such a hurry I forgot to give you
sample or tell what kind of goods it
was. Had 1 tola tne name or tne gooas
it would not have been so bad, so I am
inclosing this sample and when you an
swer please let me know if applique or
beading will be preferable, and what
colors. I Inclosed a stamped envelope in
my other letter for a speedy reply and
greatly oblige. MKa. u. f. L.
La Grande, Or.
Mrs. C. P. D., La Grande, Or.
Your silk poplin of taupe shade can
be made up very prettily and will
look well with the iridescent beads
in the rich red coloring. The black
rope silk can be combined, using
much the same design as shown on
the model I would like to have you
follow, which will be seen on page
19, No. 3722, Butterick Winter Quar
terly. .The black rope silk can be
used for the line work between the
flowers.
Nov. 20. Dear Madam Richet:' I made
over a dress with the long bodice, slight
ly fitted, coming down to hip line. It
had pleated skirt which I changed to
plain skirt, having three plaits on each
side. The dress hangs perfectly while
I am standing still, but when walking
and when Bitting down the dress creeps
up in front. I am so disappointed at
the way it acts after the great amount
of time I have spent making it over. Can
you suggest a remedy? I shall be very
grateful for an early reply. Thanking
you, MRS. M. K. S.
Mrs. M. K. S. Tour skirt must be
too narrow In the back and a "pull"
thus caused when walking or sitting.
Also a skirt will often "hike up"
when sitting- where a skimped front
is used. Try putting more fullness
toward the back and have an inset
of harmonizing material as side
panels which with proper adjust
ment In gathers or pleats should
eliminate the problem you now have.
PORTLAND. Dear Madam Ricfcet: I
have three yards of black canton crepe
for a dress. Please suggest a nice way to
make it, with perhaps black lace for
panels or trimming. What shall I have
for a touch of color to brighten it?
Am S years. 112 pounds, 5 feet 1 inch
tall, 36-inch bust, 26-inch waist, dark
brown eyes and brown fluffy hair, clear
complexion with some color, lour help
will - be greatly appreciated by a girl
alone. Thanking .you, I am, your sin
cerely. PATIENCE COLBY. .
Patience Colby. For a dress
which will be different and cer-Uinly-
.very artistic X would hve
EDGINGS FOR VARIOUS USES
MAY BE MADE ATTRACTIVE
Most Women Enjoy Having Bit of Fancy Work on Hand, to Which
Odd Minutes May Be Devoted.
; Ml. 2 ifc ir !
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il
J2..TATTIN&
l& C
BY CLOTIi.DE.
EDGINGS that may be used for
towel ends, pillow cases, aprons
or other articles are welcome to
most women who enjoy having some
thing in fancy work that may be
worked on at odd minutes. And the
two shown here are most attractive.
One is tatting used in combination
with coronation braid and the other
is crocheted in ricrac.
The coronation braid edging is
made as forlows: Ring, 2 double
stitches, picot, 2 double sitches
join space between two sections of
braid; 2 double stitches, picot, 2
double stitches, close double stitches,
3 double stitches, picot ring, 2
double stitches, join last picot of
last ring, 2 double stitches, skip
next space of braid and join next
one; 2 double stitches, picot, 2
double stitches, close.
Chain 3 double stitches, picot, 3
double stitches (ring, 2 double
Btitohe3
join last ring, 3 double
stitches, skip next space of braid
and join next 1, 2 double stitches,
picot, 3 double stitches, close. Chain
3 double stitches, picot, 3 double
stitches), twice.
Ring, 3 double stitches, join last
ring, 2 double stitches, skip 7 spaces
of braid and join 8th space; t
double stitches, picot, 2 double
stitches, close. Repeat from begin
ning for the required length.
Second row Ring, 2 double
stitches, picot, 2 double stitches,
join first loop of braid, 2 double
stitches, picot. , 2 double stitches,
close.
Chain 3 double stitches, picot,
double stitches, ring, 2 double
stitches, 2 double stitches, join next
loop of braid, 2 double stitches,
picot, 2 double stitches, close.
Chain 3 double stitches, picot, 3
you see the model on page 26, No.
2373 in the Fashionable Dress for
December. I hope that the canton
crepe is wide, at least 40 inches.
Your sleeve should be as long as
the one illustrated to look correct
and balance with the bertha worn,
which for this last named and the
sleeve frills I would have of th
silver lace or net, the handwork
and the little drops which fall over
the skirt frill of cherry red. This
with the silver and the black can
ton will be a welcome and fetching
touch. Indeed, should you not hav-e I
sufficient material the entire g-irdU
can be of the crushed cherry velvet
I cannot think of a prettier type of
frc-ck for the kind of dress you re
quire and I do hope that you will
like it and enjoy it.
SUMNER. Wash., Nov. 20. Dear
Madam Richet: I have a ekirt like the
in-closed sample, never worn, as nothing
afiftmR tn lonk Inst Hpht with it What
Kina ana color or waist could I wear
with it? Or what could I combine with
it and make a gown? The skirt is two
straight pieces, 36 inches long and the
same in width. I am 35 years old, 5 feet
3 inches tali and weigh 160, have dark
hair and eyes and not much color. Please
answer in The Sunday Oregonian. Sin
cerely yoilrs, POOR TASTE.
Poor Taste, Sumner, Wash. The
plum blue satin which you send is
so pretty and will combine beauti
fully with a figured crepe de chine
or figured canton. With the skirt
so narrow I would have the inset
panels at the sides with a sligrhtly
g-athered top. The blouse made
after the charming type shown in
the Butterick winter quarterly, page
16, No. 3923. The amount of ma
terial taken off the top of skirt will
make the cuffs and collar at least
for the outside with the facing- of
the crepe. The panel should begin
at the higher cross line of skirt. Be
sure that the material chosen for
the combing portion of dress has
the gold, terra cotta, silver gray,
black and green in the figure, all
of which will blend well with your
material.
TOLEDO, Or., Nov. 19. Dear Madam
Richet: would like your advice about
a dress for church and party wear.
What kind of cloth would be suitable for
this wear? I am 12 years old, weigh
about 155 pounds and am 5 feet 2
inches tall. I am fair, have light hair
and blue gray eyes. JANET BLACK.
Janet Black, Toledo, Or. A dress
which you would, as a rule, wear to
a party would not be suitable for
the church and so the church dress
must be made to meet the need of a
"half-way" party frock. For the
material of your dress would you
not like to" have a dark blue crepe
de chine and made after the pretty
style pictured in the Butterick win
ter quarterly, page 41, No. 4065. The
model shows a combination of fab
rics, but I would have all the same
embroidering, the straps in the old
blue, black, cherry or orchid rope
silks with a touch of the silver
metaline thread here and there. The
straps, which are an exaggerated
curx, snouia aiso be. embroidered,
PORTLAND, Nov. 24. Dear Madam
Richet: My daughter has an old rose
crepe de chine dress, plain gathered
ekirt and one-piece waist. Is there any
darker color I could dye it and change
the patter a little? It has short sleeves.
Would a bertha collar and larger sleeves
and sash of some other color be all
right? She is 15 years o!d, height about
5 feet 5 inches, weight 130 pounds, brown
hair, blue eyes. Also have 2 yards like
sample for myself I would like to make
a serai-evening dress. I am 5 feet 3
inches, 120 pounds, dark hair, age 42
years. What material shouid I use with
it? Thank you MRS. D. M. P.
Airs. D. M. P. While the bertha
is a vey pretty style I would not
care for it on one as stout as your
daughter, for from the proportion
you -give she would seem rather
plump. And so. kind reader, I
shall ask you to consider the model
as saown in the Designer for De
cember, page 77, No. 4043. You do
not mention your daughter's color
ing in face, but if she can wear the
copper brown I would- dye the rose
that shade and trim with the ecru
.... .. tr . '
1 - A
OMBINED WITH CORONATION BRAIO
double stitches, ring, 2 double
stitches, join last ring, 2 double
stitches, join next loop of braid, '2
double Batches, picot, " 2 double
stitches, close.
Chain 2 double stitches, make loop
of 2 sections of braid, join chain I
double stitch. Make another loop
of 2 sections of braid, join and
chain, 1 double stitch. Join next
loop. Chain 2 double stitches." Re
peat from beginning of row.
Third row Join thread to tne
first of the 3 loops of braid at the
bottom of the design. Chain 2, picot,
2 double stitches between. Join
the next loop. Chain 2, picot, 2
double stitches between. Join next
loop. Repeat chain and Join first
loop of next group of 3 loops. Re
peat from the beginning of the row.
The one with the ricrac braid Is
made as follows:
Join the thread at a point of the
braid. Chain 6, join between points
of braid with double Btitch. Chain 6,
Join next point of braid. Chain 5,
turn and join center stitch of last
chain. Chain 5, join center of stitch
of first chain. Chain 5, join first
point of braid. Turn, 1 double over
chain, 6 treble over same chain, 1
double over same chain. Double over
next chain, 3 treble, chain 3, 3 treble,
1 double over same chain, 1 double,
6 treble, 1 double over next chain.
Join point of braid. Repeat. Sec
ond side of braid: First row Join
thread at top of 1st point, chain 6,
join with double between points,
chain 6, join at tip of next point. Re
peat across.
Second row Chain 9 and turn and
join next point of braid. Repeat
across.
Third row Chain 5, turn and
treble in 3d, stitch of chain of last
ro-w chain, 2 treble in third Btitch
from last one. Repeat across.
or gold lace. Should the skirt be
very wide take out a portion and
add a cascade ripple to the left side
of sirirt. Unless the sleeves are
very short I would keep them as
they are. You will readily see the
advantage of this line for your girl
and how even more attractive than
the bertha it Is.
You do not mention the width of
your material, but if a 40-in h width
you can follow the stunning design
shown in the December pictorial,
page 86, No. 1193. Add the long or
three-quarter bell sleeve, also
higher neck. Should the silver lace
and cloth seem too dressy for just
what you have in mind then match
your satin of midnight blue for the
under body and have the blouse of
the pray radium lace. The silver
ribbon or the light gray and an ef
fective steel buckle will mafte the
girdlf a thing of beauty and inter-
I t Tjine the skirt drane with the
I e8Z' lne SKiri arape Willi tHO
Oliver uiuiu ui jiiu,t,uuni& iub ouauo
jf la"-e use.
Madam Richet: I have a six-gored
skirt of serge in burgundy shade, in per
fectly good condition. Could I get some
thing to combine with it to make one-
piece dress and how shall 1 make it : Am
rather short. Have navy-blue jersey
dress with loner over-blouse, the front
of blouse has a few moth holes in it but
the rest of goods is in good condition.
The skirt is part sham. Will you please
suggest some way of making a aress
for my 13-year-old- daughter? What
would go well with it.
Thanking you for past suggestions,
MRS. O. A. C.
Mrs. O. A. C. It is' difficult to say
just how long a reader must wait
for her answer for all depends upon
the number "tthe-ad of ycu," and how
much space is given the column.
However we are rather well "caught
up" and I don't think that you will
have much waiting.
For your serge Burgundy would
you not like the skirt used in panel
effect and the underdrop or tne
black satin or even better the can
ton if you are very stout. Then have
the blouse of the new material em
broidered in a striped pattern or an
allover, using the black ribbon and
the silver thread for the design.
You can have it stamped arid do by
hand or have the machine embroider
which is very attractive. In the De
cember Designer you will find on
Page 78, No. 4057, a pleasing mode
to copy. The gores will permit of
the sleeve of Burgunay for their
portion called for. The girdle should
be a twisted combination of the
satin and the material.
For your daughter's dress which
you would make from your blue
jersey, I would suggest the type
hown in the Butterick quarterly.
page 55, No. 3656. Perhaps you will
have enough in the -sham to make
the skirt (you did not mention its
depth) and if not, the tunic can be
pieced for the ekirt and that seam
covered with a pretty strip of
worsteds in a running etitch band
desig-n. The looped strips should be
embroidered in the same manner and
have the waist of warm sand jersey
made after the pattern shown. For
the color scheme of your worsteds
have the royal blue, red, brown and
black. The little flower at the left
side can be carried out in a cro
cheted effect. This will be a very
attractive and youthful dress, and
well worth the labor.
HARTLAND, Wash., Kov. , 22. Dear
Madam Richet: I have suit of jersey
same as sample inclosed which I would
like to make into a one-piece dress for
service. There is Quite a lot of material
but the jacket has two eeams in front.
I am quite short and stout, medium com
plexion, about middle aged. The collar
and cuffs are of a lighter shade. Would
appreciate your suggestion. I take the
Designer: I also have a serge like
sample inclosed, would like to make over
in a dressy style; have considerable ma
terial but pretty much cut up as the
skirt had straight plaited panels in front
and back. , A CONSTANT READER.
A Constant Reader, Hartland,
Wash. You do not mention the
width of skirt nor if you wish to
widen it. Also the type of jacket.
and inasmuch as the jersey suits
usually have the tuxedo jacket, i.
shall give you two models from
which to make your choice, or you
might like to combine the two. In
the December Designer you will I
find on page 78, No. 4034. Join your
skirt and jacket at a rather low
waist line and have an inset -of
brown moire, also the collar.
Should the seams in the jacket be
there to give a more closely fitted
line, then let them out and have an
inset of the moire wherever the
seam occurs. This will give a
straighter line and length to you as
the width is being broken. Wear
vestee of tucked cream batiste.
And then on page 32, No. 3902; will
show you a smart line where the
joining seam can be made, under the
belt and the vest continued below
the belt line, thus eliminating the
need of piecing. The collar of good
length and Hue can be made of the
moire, also the cuffs. The vest of
the jacket's skirt.
With your Burgundy shade of
serge I can certainly see a very at
tractive afternoon .and Informal
evening frock. With the amount
of material in your skirt I would
suggest the draped type even
though the seams of piecing be
there, as well pressed joinings are
not at all out of place in a scheme
such as this. For the blouse a
matching lace In the radium variety
of weave and finish, made over a
body lining of silver cloth or silver
shade crepe de chine. The cascade
of the skirt can be lined with the
same material as you use for the
under lining. A very pleasing
model and good for the stout figure
because of the long line drape which
finds a' definite line at the waist.
November Designer, page 78, 4021.
The longer sleeve will be better
for you, aa it, too, will adi length.
Dear Madam Richet: I have a brown
velvet dress I wish to remodel.. It is
made two-piece skirt, eton jacket effect
with brown silk sash, black fringe on the
ends. What color and kind of goods
would yo,u advise me to use, also pat
tern? Would like to use sash again. Am
5 feet 8 inches tall, light hair and blue
eyes, weight 110 pounds, some color. 1
years old. Thanking you in advance for
any suggestions you can give me.
Mamma has a dress like inclosed
sample. What kind of goods is it and is
it of such a queer design as not to be
used for a dress now? It is 40-inch
length, 90 Inches around bottom of
skirt, natural waist line and short sleeves
trimmed In plain Wue silk. Of what use
can 1 put it to?
J. M., Lexington, Or.
J. M. Lexington, Or. It Is always
a keen pleasure to aid the young
woman or your years in her prob
lems and, believing that you are
equal to the task, I am going to
have you copy in part and change in
part a very suitable model for the
making over of your brown velvet
In the winter quarterly of th Pic
torial Review you will find on page
9, No. 1265, the pattern upon whose
main line your dress can be made.
The front opening of your jacket
will have to be vested, bringing it
only as far as the free line at the
front with the picoted edge. For
that vest and the crushed belt be
low I would have you select a. lovely
brocaded crepe with the rich blues,
henna, golds and black. With your
jacket's line the side opening as
shown under the arm can be elim
inated. Use your sash for the sides
which form the tied ends, remoding
the fringe and finishing with a band
of the brocaded crepe. You will re
quire a yard of the new material.
The dress I would open at the
shoulder and under arm, as this
fastening will permit a neater finish
for the vest, or better than the front
inset. Your skirt will be quite cor
rect as it is and the sash wtll trim
it sufficiently. If I can be of fur
ther help do not hesitate to write.
The sample you enclose from the
material you would use for your
mother's dress resembles the old
wash foulard prints and will make
up n-'cely for a house dress or for
an all-day meeting at the church
where everybody brings her own
lunch and comes orepared to sew as
well. With so much material in the
skirt, I would recut it, using the
leftover portion for the reverg and
vest of the blouse. The sleeves can
stay as they are with the exception
of the silk, which I would remove
and trim in a basket weave of the
matching blue moire ribbon, three-
quarter inch width. The top of
vest should be so trimmed, llKewise
the top of the ribbon panels. The
picture will portray in detail this
effective trimming. Same issue as
mentioned for your frock, page 38,
No. ,1209. If you cannot obtain
these patterns in your town, send to
Portland, where any of the service
bureau departments of the larger
department stores will be glad to
secure same for you.
PORTLAND, Nov. 17. Dear Madam
Richet: Like many others I am coming
to you for kind advice. I have a suit
like sample inclosed. Skirt 33 inches
long, 1 inches wide at bottom in four
pieces. Jacket 27 Inches long and very
full, being box plaited. Do you see a
dress for me of it? If possible mention
pattern and answer in Sunday Oregonian.-
I am 25 years old, 5 feet 2 inches tall,
bust 32 inches, waist 25 inches, hips 32
inches, weigh 113 pounds, brown hair,
dark blue eyes, very fair skin, not much
color.
I will be temally grateful to you for
any advice. Yours truly.
LAZi .NANCE."
Lazy Nance. I should say that
you are a very fortunate person in
having1 the suit you wish remodeled,
as the color is one bt the very best
shades this season; in fact, all tans
and Drowns are gooa, ana at tne
present "hour"; tomorrow it may be
something else. New York is clad
in brown. Now for the pattern
which I would have you follow I
shall ask you to see the November
Elite, page 25. No. 4474D. Have the
A TRUE STORY OF A YOUNG GIRL
BY EXID
"Oh, Mother!" exclaimed Gladys,
"my back aches so that I don't feel
like doing anything but lie down I
tire so easily."
Mrs. B. looked grave when she
noticed how pale the girl was. "We
will consult Dr. H.," she said, 'and
she informed him by phone that they
would soon be at his office.
The good old man asked many
questions, then said: "Tour daugh
ter is just emerging into woman
hood, what she needs is a tonic to
tone up her nerves, to get rid of
that tired feeling, and correct ir
regularities and suppression or other
feminine disorders. No wonder she
is all run down. Now Rknow of a
wonderful remedy which I am glad
to recommend, for I know it is
harmless and purely vegetable. Dr.
Pierce's Favorite Prescription, It is
a splendid tonic for women and acts
directly upon the organs that char
acterize the sex. What your daugh
I1WL0'5 BOWELS
WITH CftUFORNIA FIG SYRUP"
MOTHER! Even Bilious, Upset, Tongue-Coated Children
Love this Pleasant Harmless Laxative
A teaspoonful of "California Fig
Syrup" now will thoroughly clean
the little bowels and in a few hours
you have a well, playful child again.
Even if cross, feverish, constipated,
or full of cold, children love its
"fruity" taste, and mothers can rest
easy because it never fails to work
all the souring food and nasty bile
pleated panels of the shade or two
darker canton crepe and the design
carried out in the picoted strips of
the canton. The sleeves are kimono,
bat he. general line of yours can
be trimmed In much the same man
ner. The amount of material in
such a jacket as yours should recut
to splendid advantage. This is a
most attractive frock and you will
feel not as you sign yourself, but
very "peppy," in the possession of
such a dress, which will prove
fetching and serviceable. Should
the stores be out of the number
stated I am sure that a trip to our
splendid library will reward you in
full measure.
CANTON CITY, Or., Nov. IT. Bear
Madam Richet: Is material like sample
Inclosed fashionable now? I have an
old-fashioned coat made of it and would
like to have it remodeled for an elderly
woman whose weight is about 17 pounds.
Please suggest a style to be worn with
the new long, draped dresses. Very truly,
B. B. S.
E. B. S., Canyon City. You are
indeed fortunate to have the fur-r-inth
whioh is oarticularly good
this season. Had I the sketch of
coat which you .wish to remodel and
the height of person lor wnom in
tended I could better plan the lines
most suited. However, there is a
model shown in the winter quar
j terly of the Pictorial Review, page
51, No. 1136, which is stunning on a
tall figure wearing- draped type of
skirt. The collar can be ao maae as
to fasten in choker style when de
sired. Another type of coat and
splendid in line will be found in the
Butterick Quarterly for winter,
Gray Faded
Hair Restored
Dandruff Gone!
Without ths use of dyes thousands ot
men and women have restored the origi
nal color ol their hair, whether black,
brown or blond, in a natural, harmless
and pleasant manner with Nourishine a
real tonic which feeds and nourishes the
hair, thus restoring it to its original
vitality and color. , It unfailingly re
moves dandruff, promotes hair growth
and prevents .t falling. Cleanses the
scalp. One bottle usually Is effective.
As a dandruff remover alone It is worth
many times the price asked. Be gray
no longer. No matter what yon have
tried Try Nourishine. Price $1.25 pet
bottle, at Stout-Lyons Drug company
4 downtown stores and other drug and
department stores. Adv.
Nourishine Is Not a Dye
MORRISOV.
ter should do is to keep in the open
air as much as possible, go to bed
early, and she will sy.rely get sound
refreshing sleep if she takes the
Favorite Prescription, according to
directiens. for it contains the ex
tract of wonderful herbs which are
good for the nerves and women's
ills, that were long known to tne
Indians."
The anxious mother followed his
suggestions and in a few weeks
her daughter showed marked im
provement and soon was a happy,
healthy girl, joining in ail tne atn
letic games of her companions, and
Mrs. B. says it is all owing to Dr,
Pierce's Favorite Prescription, which
is "worth its weight in gold."
All druggists sell the Favorite
Prescription in liquid or tablet form
or send 10 cents for trial sample to
Dr. Pierce's Invalids' Hotel, '665
Main St., Buffalo, N. Y., and write
for free jnedical advice--Adv,
rig-ht out of the stomach and bowels
without griping- or upsetting the
child.
Tell your druggist you want only
the genuine- "California Fig Syrup"
which has directions for babies and
children of all ages printed on the
bottle. Mother, you must say "Cali
fornia." Refuse any Imitation. Adv.
page 49, No. 4054 or No. 3952, with
the added skirt of black broadcloth.
In my opinion the last named and
found on same page will make the
most attractive wrap.
Stop Eating Meat for a While
If Your Bladder Is
Troubling You.
When you wake up with backache
and dull misery in the kidney re
gion it may mean you have been
eating too' much meat, says a well- ,
known authority. An- excess of "
meat may form uric acid, which
overworks the kidneys in their ef
fort to filter it from the blood and
tbey become sort o paralyzed and
loegy. When your kidneys get
sluggish and clog you must relievo
them, like you relieve your bowels,
removing all the body's urinous 1
waste, else you have backache, sick: .
headache, dizzy spells; your stom
ach sours, tongue is coated, and
when the weather is bad you have
rheumatic twinges. The urine is
cloudy, full of sediment, channels
often get sore, water scalds and you
are obliged to seek relief two or
three times during the night.
Either- consult a good, reliable
physician at once or get from your
pharmacist about four ounces of Jad .
Sits; take a tablespoonful in a
glass of water before breakfast for a
few days and your kidneys may then v
act fine. This famous salts is made
from the acid of grapes and lemon
juice, combined with lithia, and haa
been used for generations to clean '
and stimulate sluggish kidneys, also
to neutralize acids in the urine so it
no longer irritates, thus often end
ing bladder weakness.
Jad Salts is inexpensive, cannot
injure and makes a delightful ef- .
fervescent lithia-water drink. Drink
lots of soft water. Adv.
PUT CREAM IN NOSE
AND STOP CATARRH
Tells How To Open Clogged Nog.
trils and End Head-Colds.
You feel fine in a few moments.
Your cold in head or catarrh will".
be gone. Your clogged nostrils will
open. The air passages of your
head will clear and you can breathe
freely. No more dullness, headache;
no hawking, snuffling, mucous dis
charges or dryness; no struggling :
for breath at night.
Tell your druggist you want a .
small bottle of Ely's Cream Balm. .
Apply a little of this fragrant, an
tiseptic cream in your nostrils, let
it penetrate through every air pass- "
age of the head; soothe and heal'
the swollen, inflamed mucous mem
brane, and relief comes instantly.
It is just what every cold and
catarrh sufferer needs. Don't stay
stuffed-up and miserable. Adv.
FIERY, ITCHY ECZEMA
HEALED RIGHT UP BY
Any breaking out of the skin, even
fiery, itching eczema, can be quickly .
overcome by applying a little Men-.
tho-Sulphur, says a noted skin sDe- .
cialist. Because of its germ dcatruy- -ing
properties, this sulphur prepa-
ration Instantly brings ease from
skin irritation, soothes and heals
the eczema right up and leaves the
skin clear and smooth.
It seldom fails to relieve the tor- .
ment and disfigurement. Sufferers
from skin trouble should get a little
jar of Rowles Mentho-Sulphur from
any good druggist and use it like a
cold cream. Adv.
PILES
CAN BE
CURED
Xt you suffer from itching, bleeding or ,
protruding- Plies, no matter how bad, yoti ,
can be quickly cured iiy the remarkable
discovery of Kuro Pile Remedy. To
prove this I will send you a regular $2.00
treatment on 10 Days' Free Trial. If it
cures seiid $2.00 -otherwise you owt
nothiCff. Just write Mr. W. R. Darling
tor., 334 Kuro Bldgr., Kansas City. Mo., ,
and I will send you my generous trial
treatment absolutely FRSE and postsald, ',
IfUIl 103.ol