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About The Sunday Oregonian. (Portland, Ore.) 1881-current | View Entire Issue (Oct. 8, 1922)
' 4 THE SUNDAY OREGONIAX, PORTLAND, OCTOBER 8, 1923 FROCKS FOR AUTUMN WEAR DISTINCTIVE AND MODISH IN DESIGN AND TRIMMINGS Fur Used With Braid and Rosette Effects Upon Street Costumes, While Silhouette With Long Skirt and Low Waistline Bring Forward Larger -Hats for Ordinary Occasions. ". " -! if yfr', I P p " -. J 1 " I fc I rT -" ' v - . I ' ' ' ' 1 "V'""0""""""' r-'- t i, - T;'' , : ' JfefLl ' , ; &ftr dps . I ' ' J A c-' 1 "wiS J? joy, 13 I 4W 1 ' .' , , , , ,' 1 m , s f ? ; :-. : ,t- ( . .. ' " V' ' u ' I It i II b ' V HA ; 4fTKc SI! f A ;M ff f i rr I 7 7ZO, Wool .Troff-J- 1 LANV1N Is putting tiny beads of ermine in toe effect of braid ing on jackets of black, street ults. Similar bands of gray monkey fur are used by French couturiers for edging collars, pock eta and the lapped front of jacket and skirt. Sometimes the banding of monkey fur is wound round and round into a rosette motif. Cheruit shows a. fondness for gold embroidery and gold cloth applique on afternoon frocks of soft fabrics. The gold touches are used on black, brown and dark red frocks. Much brilliant red in clear tones is used by Paris dressmakers this season. There are brilliant red eve ning frocks, soft, deep red tailleurs with squirrel for trimming and rich red frocks for indoor affairs in the afternoon. Ao effective afternoon frock from Paris is of oriental blue crep with round neckline, low waistline and skirt almost to the instep. Down each side of the costume from shoulder to hem run bands of silver braid leaves. They panel the bodice at back and front from shoulder to j vast line and a single panl runs 1 down the side of the skirt. Back and front draperies of the skirt make graceful cascades alongside the sil ver leaf panel. The changed silhouette with long skirt and very low waistline is bringing forward larger hats for street and dress wear and their vogue will endure until the moment of big. muffling coat collars. The large hat Is charming with a frock or tailored suit, but only a long throated woman can wear a big hat with a big coat collar. .... Simple enough, but obviously of the latest mode, is this (1696) early autumn street frock from Jenny. It is ot wool rep in dark blue a shade to which Jenny is partial and skirt, graceful drapery, sleeve and neck line are bordered with a black cire braid having a glittering celophan strand in its weave. Note in the re flection that shows the back of the costume how the skirt drapery and bodice fasten down one side of the back. A belt of leather in bright colors accentuates the low waist line. , ... . More and more women are select ing frocks rattier than suits ioi This new autumn wrap of black orepe mongol has a new drapery, ef fected by gathers placed in a ver tical line at the back of the shoul der, and the garment' wraps most gracefully about its wearer, as you see. Flounces of black monkey fur trim the lower edge of the wrap, which is long enough to cover the frock, everi when crossed and draped upward over the arms, as the picture (1916) shows it. A small monkey fur collar outlines the neck opening. ... early autumn street wear, leaving the suit for later purchase when one may contemplate a warmer model that will go through the win ter. The little tailored frock for street wear, however, is made of a wool material and is very simple and very smart and fresh in style, conveying the idea of newness and readiness for the changed season, and most women wear with it a small neck scarf of marten this year. The frock pictured (1720) is of brown wool rep, with narrow folds of the fabric braided to make shoulder, sleeve and belt ornaments. ... There is something depressing about a clock; Uiat stands dead and silent on a mantel and how many such clocks do you see? Hand t soma and ornamental timepieces i that fail to do the only thins that Is required of a clock tell the hours. Clocks are not ornaments and the timeless clock whose day is over had much better be sold for iunk or packed away in the attic for -future generations to resurrect and have put In order because of its quaint and ancient style, than kept forever in a room to grive a melan choly and exasperating: effect. For it is always exasperating; to glance -t a timepiece that does not go. Tne family may be used to It but guests always feel antagonistic toward that useless ornament; Much better to have a single graceful vase on the living: room mantel than a clock that does not tell time. If your old clock is dear to you througrh years of association have it put in order. An expert clock mender can usually maxe a ciock gro, no matter how old It is. The more dif ficulty its ancient works present the more interested he will be. That old swinging: clock, for instance, that ticks without a pendulum with a sort of pivotal" motion, face, and ell moving back and forth, you will te surprised to find the old clock mender knows all about its intricate centrifugal movement and has seen just such clocks in France or Switz erland. The voice of a cjock is an almost human thing. One misses it sorely when it ceases. Some people are superstltuous about the stopping of a clock that has ticked away for years. At any rate it is much pleas anter to have a clock ticking and striking the hours than to have it stand, dead and silent, posing as a mere ornament. . Now is the time to plan your winter frocks; 4.0 look about- and, find out what the smart fabrics and colors are to be and to decide which fabrics will best carry out the lines you like in autumn' modes. The wise woman makes herself fa miliar with new materials as well as with, new lines and silhouettes, and it pays to haunt the dress-goods counter these early fall days, when all the new fabrics are displayed with special prominence. " Great vogue is promised to the English fur cloths which used to he called "fur fabrics," and were con sidered rather a. cheap makeshift for people who could not afford real fur. But fur cloths as they are now called have been taken up by fash ion and by the best dressmakers of Paris and are made into suits, wraps and jaunty short coats, trimmed with real fur collars and panels. The fur cloths come in broadtail, baby, lamb and caracul effects and you may have them in white, black, gray and a black and gray melange. The wool jacquards are rich and beautiful and a new melange (or mixed color) duvetyn will make stunning formal tailleurs. For sport wear there are soft camelshair tweeds and. plaid velours de laine, the latter in large squares made up of fine lines. The Rodler materials from France are very distinguished and will be made up in frocks, wraps and suits. Crepe faille is a lovely frock fabric that promises to supersede satin for winter afternoon costumes, and crossbar dropstitch velours will take graceful lines in draped frocks. Vel vet is so soft and supple now that it drapes like chiffon and the long, slim velvet frocks of this season are going to be most becoming to all figures. HUBBAHU, Or. Dear Mis. Tinitle: I am a constant reader of your columns and use so many or your recipe, and ret o much rood information it is the first thins I look at when I eet the naoer. I have never written you before, but would like to ask you lor a recipe for China noodles and chop suey, also chili con came, Alexlcan style, and hot ta males. M. I. R. T. ruu will not have the skill nor Jl the patience to make real Chinese noodles, but you might try the following: imitation: White Noodles i egrgr-whites, un beaten, 1 teaspoon salt, fine white flour to roll. Sift the flour grad ually into the eg-gr-whites, stirring- and kneading until you have a smooth, flexible paste. Roll as thin as possible (but without breaking) until you can almost see through it. Let dry about 20 minutes, then roll up and cut into very' thin, narrow ribbons. Toss carefully to separate and let dry a little. Drop into hot soup stock or Failed water and cook until tender. Then draw and serve with any preferred sauce or savory meat and vegetable mixture, or fry in butter or bacon fat and serve with various savory mixtures as preferred. Finely chopped fried onions and ham makes a good com bination with fried noodles. Serve very hot with Chinese soy. Noodles also may be served in any way suitable for macaroni or spa ghetti. Chop suey is a general name like "pie." Below is a recipe for one of many varieties. The soy cannot be prepared at home. It is made from soy beans by a process of fermenta tion. Your best plan would be to buy It from a Chinese grocery. A very mild, well-ripened mushroom or walnut catsup might be substi tuted, but neither of these would be as good as soy, and they would take six months to prepare. Chop Suey No. 1 One small chick en, -pound lean pork cut in small strips, lhi inches Ions', H cup shred ded celery, onion shredded, 6 Chi nese dried mushrooms soaked in water and shredded, 6 water chest nuts cut thin, -pound wheat sprouts or bean sprouts, green pepper shredded, a small piece of ginger root. Boil the chicken until tender. Remove all the meat and cut in long, narrow pieces. Return the bones and skin to the broth and boil down until -you have one cup of very strong broth when strained. Fry the thin shreds of pork until brown, then add the other ingred- ents and fry slightly, then add broth. Simmer until cooked through and season well, using a little salt and about one tablespoon each gu yow and soy (both obtainable from Chinese provision shops). Serve with rice or Chinese noodles and a bottle of soy. Bamboo shoots often are used in chop suey. Hot Tamales Boil one pound lean fresh pork or veal or a small fowl until tender. Remove skin and bones and shred the meat coarsely. Scald 14 cups white cornmeal in enough of the meat broth to make a stiff mush, adding salt to taste and one tablespoon oil or lard. Fry the meat slightly in two or three tablespoons "chill color (given below), then Bkim out -and add one . tablespoon floor, salt and chili powder to taste and enough of the broth to make a very thick sauce with the meat. Add also one dozen stoned ripe olives (or stuffed olives) and a sliced hard boiled egg. Have ready five dozen or more selected dry corn husks, soaked in warm water until pliable, and trimmed Into uniform lengths. Gather a bunch of eight or ten husks and tie at one end. Make the meat mixture into two-inch oblong rolls, place a tablespoon of mush on a husk and cover with another husk. Put layers of mush between the other inner husk (with or without a little Mexican chili, Colorado chili or chili and tomato sauce), and roll otter, busks over. tying firmly, at TELEPHONE LADY IS LATEST FAD FOR MILADY'S BOUDOIR Attractive Baskets Instead of Bags Now Used to Hold Knitting or Needlework, Though Change la Gradual. - rCL r , iiiiii a .-r-:.- -'e. : :4 Asin? Sxr frerr SHE POSBS in the boudoir among all the other fascinating, frivo lous belongings and hides away the prosaic telephone instrument which one must have, of course, to get in touch with one's friends, an'd call up box offices for matinee seats, nd make engagements for tea and so on; but which is far too business--lke in appearance to mate with charming furnishings of a boudoir. Attractive baskets are used now to hold knitting or needlework in stead of the capacious reticules that were in vogue a season or two ago. The changu has been gradual; the silk or cretonne bag was superseded by a straw bag that hung over the arm, and presently the straw bag became a bona fid basket. These fancy work baskets come In various snapes and sizes, quite large for the sweater you are making, and rather tiny for embroidered doilies or nap- each end. Steam or boll about two hours. Chili color (for frying meat for Mexican stews, etc.) Shred and beat one pound beef suet ir. a frying pan with one chopped onion, three sweet red peppers, chopped, a clove of garlic If liked and one-fourth teaspoon of cayenne (or more or less to tasft). Try out the fat without burning. Strain and store the flavored fat in a small Jar. Chili con came is a very vary'ng kind of brown stew of pork, beef, chicken or mutton with red beans and a flavoring of differ-.nt com binations of Spanish peppers and garlic with or without onions and tomatoes. A typical detailed recipe was given recently. If you will write again I will repeat it when the time limit expires. FOSSIL. Or. Dear Jlios Tingle: Will you please five me. in The Oreffonian. a recipe for ripe tomato catsup, also for baked green peppers, stuffed. Thanking yoa. MRS. C. D. B. I hope you saw the recipes for to mato catsup which have appeared since your letter was written. Stuffed peppers may be prepared In an almost unlimited variety of ways. The first thing to determine is whether they are to be served as a main dish or as a "meat accom paniment." In the former case the "foundation" might be some cooked starchy material such as rice, chopped potatoes, macaroni or bread crumbs; or a "succulent" cooked chopped vegetable might be used as foundation, such as cabbage, onion, celery or carrots, either alone or In combination. Besides the "founda tion material" there would be a little butter or bacon fat and any preferred seasoning material such as onion Juice, chopped parsley, to mato catsup, etc., with pepper and salt to taste. On any preferred meat or poultry stuffing- might be baked In peppers to serve as "meat accompaniment-" If the peppers are to be served as a main dish they may be filled with either fresh or cooked meat finely minced and combined with a little cooked starchy material, such as rice or bread crumbs and seasoning to taste; or cooked flaked fish might be used; or for a vegetarian main dish the filling might be any good nut loaf or bean loaf mixture, or macaroni and cheese, or maca roni Italian or Spanish. From this you see how you may arrange a filling to suit yourself; but it is rather hard for me to guess Just which of all the possible recipes you might happen to prefer. Before stuffing, boil the peppers a few minutes to remove the acrid taste, or put them for a few minutes into a very hot oven or dip quickly in and out of hot, deep fat. By the two latter methods it is possible to remove the tough, thin outer skin before baking. Of course, the seeds the veins should be removed before the peppers are filled, and it is a wise precaution to taste a very tiny morsel of each pepper before filling, to insure that no hot one is acci dentally included. After filling the pepper, tops may be replaced or the filling may be covered with buttered crumbs. Place the prepared peppers in a baking tin with a little stock or water and melted butter or bacon f for basting.- Cook until tender, basting occasionally to prevent drying out. Serve with meat gravy if Intended as a meat accompani ment. If served as a main dish use brown sauce or tomato sauce or any V. Tl.'i, HWA kins you propose to hem. The bas kets are in most lovely color schemes and are trimmed with beads or with little silk flowers or fruit in blended shades of rose, olive, du Barry blue and mauve; or in gay new-art ef fects of bright orange, scarlet and ;-.llow! Two baskets are pictured And a smart little leather case con taining sets of knitting and crochet needles and tatting implements. . The telephone lady has a bisque bead and shoulders but from the waist down she is mostly silken pet tfcoats which stand out in quaint, voluminous fashion to hide the tele phone beneath. But in a Jiffy she can be lifted off, by the head, like a teacosy from a teapot, when one needs to chat over the phone. The fetching telephone lady In the pic Lure wears a gown of taffeta silk in a gorgeous fuchsia pink shade and her scarf and the trimmings on her klrt are of gold lace. preferred variety of Spanish or Cre ole sauce. The recipe given above for stuffed green tomatoes might be adapted for fresh green sweet peppers and may serve as a guide In making something to suit yourself. Dear Miss Tingle: I am a crest ad mirer of your column and have ao many good dishes that 1 call Miss Tingle's spe cial. Would you be so kind as to publish your recipe for green tomato conserve? I made it last year, but have mislaid th. recipe. A FAITHFUL, READER. I am glad to hear that you find this column useful, but as there is no special conserve recipe that I cliiim as "mine." I am unable to identify the particular one you want without some description. Probably you would like a tomato conserve made by the usual general "type" formula as follows: Tomato (or any other) conserve Five pounds sliced tomatoes (or any ether suitable foundation fruit), five pounds sugar, juice and grated rind of one or two lemons (as pre ferred), one pound oranges, two to four according to size, one or two pounds seeded or seedless raisins (or sliced figs, one-half to one pound nut meats. Elice the oranges in shreds as thin as possible, or remove and chop the peel and sllc the pulp separately as preferred. In any case the peel should be cooked until tender (either alone or with the foundation fruits), before the sugar is added. Cook until the founda tlrn fruit is tender and the raisins nicely "plumped." then add the sugar and cook until the Juice jells or wrinkles when dropped on a cool plate. Add the nuts Just be fore removing from the fire. Or the nuts may be omitted, as many people greatly dislike nuts in eon serves. Seal and store like Jelly. This will serve In answer to a number of requests for peach, prune, pear, apple or other conserves. Any of these fruits or a mixture of them may be used Instead of toma toes as "foundation fruit" and fin iehed by the above general propor tion ana metnoa. The following is given In reply to a recent request: .Dried apples (Mrsw P.) Use rood, firm, perfectly sound apples. Pare. Why Have Gray HairorDandruff? Nourishln will reator your hlr t ortjxin-i color whether black brown er blond. Removes 5vndruff. Prernts falling hair and . promote- Ita arrow th. Cleanse the acalp. Harm lea and pleaa- ant to ue- No longer la It neceasarr for you to hare gray hair which haadlca.p you socially and in business. Nourishine Positively Not a Dye Nourishine la a real tonle which feeds and nourishes th hair, thus restoring it to its original rftaiity. It la used and indorsed br thousands of men and women. As a dandruff remover aion It is worth many times the price askad. On botU usually ia effective. Sold by Owl rru company. Stout. ! Lyona Drug company. 4 downtown atorea, Meier A Frank and other drug sad dept. i stores at iua per bot-u. as. . sr. MONutKun nhe CORSET ofttieHOUR Reduces Reshapes Rejuvenates with Comfort 13 Models -v6S2to.T35 '1' THAN A BRAx ; tVif-adrus ana to guarantees for every mdrvidi. 22 MODELS DYE FADED CURTAINSSKIRT , SWEATER, DRESS OR COAT IN "DIAMOND DYES" Each package of "Diamond Dyes'' contains directions so simple any woman can dye or tint her old. worn, faded things new. Kven If he has never dyed before, she can put a rich, fadeless color into shabby skirts, dresses, waists, coats, stork ing. yweatr. coverings. Arm- core and cut Into eighths, or rore with an apple corer and cut Into rings one-eighth Inch thick, utlng a vesretable silcer. Drop 'nto salt (rater, using two and one-half table spoons salt to one gallon water to prevent discoloration. Dry with a clean cloth, then dry them, begin ning at about 110 degrees Fahren heit, raising very slowly to 150. The truit should be leathery and elastic when dried, not hard or moist. Leave spread out two V three days after drying, stirring occasionally. Clears Skin of Pimples Remarkable Action of Stuart Cat cinra Wafer In Bidding Face of Pirn plea. Boils, Bash, Blotches, Etc. Ten know what a tlnv Pinch of saleratus does when added to miia and acid. It stops curdling, and this Is comparatively me same in r-ie7.n- that takes place when you add calcium sulfide to th blood. It is a refining Influence. Calcium is h nrlnrln.1 aaenCV in FtUSTt B .!- cium Wafers and exerts a peculiar stimulus to skin repair. rimplea. blackheads and other such evidence of localised skin -liiBrlhns ar replaced with new material am i-nn the akin renews itself with firmer, healthier tissue. This makes th beautiful complexion so much ad mired. No use to hide plmpies with cream and lotions. These blem ishes either come from within or become localized ir tne caicium in fluence is lacking and they keep coming until such an Influence as Calcium IS SUPPIiea 7 n ui'iuu. Let nature clear your akin through t,. influence of Stuart's Calcium Wafers which you can obtain In any drug store at so cents a oox. j nes wonder wafer are used by thou mmnAm nf women who hav learned from experience their remarkable influence to max tne ma ful and keep It so. Adv. Dandruff Soon Ruins the Hair Oirls If yon want plenty of thick, beautiful, glossy, silky hair, do by all means get rid of dandruff, for it will starve your hair and ruia it if you don't. It doesn't do much goed t try to brush or wash it out. Th only ajur way to get rid of dandruff la to dis solve it. then you destroy It en tirely. T do this, get about four ounces of ordinary liquid arvon; ap ply. It at night when retiring; us enough to moisten th scalp and rub it in gently with the finger tips. By morning most, if sot all. of your dandruff will b gen, and thre or four mor applications will completely dlssolv and antlraly de stroy every lngl sign and trac of It. Ton will find, too. that all Itching and digging of th scalp will top, and your hair will look and feel a hundred times batter. Tou can get liquid arvon at any drug a tor. It is Inexpensive and four ouncii I all you will need, no matter bow mneh dandruff you hav. Thla slm- ola rasiedy nTr faU4v-a.4s ' - rC irT 7b r-3 TESTED FOR MANY YEARS TIHAS BROUGHT TO MILLIONS OT VJOMEN n perlea. hanfflnsa. tvi)tluni: Hur Diamond Dyes no other kind the perfect home dyeing is guaranteed. Jut tell your drusslsi hthr the material you wlh t' dre U wool or ailk. or, whether It la linen, cl tee. or mixed goods. Diamond !- never trel mn.t fad r,r r'th Av This Is called "rondltlonlnr In pasteboard Kegea or Tarf " ir bt a Easy to Buy When yoa buy chO dren' underwear, yoa will choose R. A. as soon as you see it and ' feel its warm, durable fabric R. A. i cat to fit th ' bodies of children, with out the usual blading or bunching. The teat ia -tr fall, thm aearna as strong as tb fabric itself. The button boles are specially devtsod to keep the garment corel bat toned. Unions, Shirts and pents and waist suits all bettar than the best yoa bars seen and will wear a yeas' longer than ordinary uav deTwear with careful wsaa inf. Th Mine tmporW cjoaBtr ia shown la all styiea aad sxzea op to extra oat aisca, in R. A. rnaka lor women. "And ret the price of U, A. is modcrstaT Ask the salescM for S. X will more thaapayyosi fci sanisisction. X C ROULETTE ft SCOT ' HAGIJLJTOWK. KTX APPLY SULPHUR TO HEAL UPYOUR SKIM Broken Out FVIo sad IteUag Eczema Helped Over Right. For unsightly kta (eruptions. r- or blotch a ea fe. nark, arm r body, yon &o not have te wait for rllf from torture or embarrass mant, Selars a not4 akla spawiai- 1st- Apply a little nth-eiuiphsrr and Improvement shows seat Sr. Eteeaua of tt germ Sestrwylsg properties, nothing baa vr bak found to tak th r'ac of this aul obur preparation. Th moment Ta apply it healing begin. Only thoe who hav ha4 uns.aatly akla Iron blea can know th delight this Mea-tho-Suipbur brings l'n fori. itching ecsema Is dr'4 right up tit a small Jar of Howie Msnih- Sulphur from any gooii drneat bb4 aae It UX co.4 , A4t - rweax In