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About The Sunday Oregonian. (Portland, Ore.) 1881-current | View Entire Issue (Oct. 8, 1922)
7 strange capital of the past, inex plicable and impressively beautiful. Who were those people? We call them Nahoas. But when did they flourish? Where did they come from, and why did they vanish so .mysteriously? Some of the his torians believe, and Mr. Gamio shares this theory, t!hat in remote times the region of San Juan Teotihuacan was inhabited by peoples of the Otomi race, whose cultural type we now term archaic That there were two epochs is clear enough. The excavations have disclosed the remains of two cities, plainly divided, one built over the other. They follow a natural pat tern of development; the first city was massive, simple, with a power ful art of sculpture. The second had CRAZE FOR WEARING EARRINGS IS REVIVED IN ALL BARBARIC GLORY BY 1922 WOMAN To Be Picturesque Above Everything Else Is Aim of Modern Beauty Longi Graceful Lines in Clothing Are Becoming Popular Personality Is Demonstrated. THE SUNDAY OREGONIAX, PORTLAND, OCTOBER 8, 1922 r ST ANTOINETTE DONSTKUJY. NEW YORK. (Special Corr rpondence.) At last we have the answer as to the why of u ear from a strictly ornamental pjolnt of view. A straight beauty feature it could not be called, ex cept la rare cases. Women, sensing thim tally, .have shown the discre tion long" associated with wisdom, and kept them earcnuffed and fore Ibansred, eo that their shell-like properties have given, them little or no concern. Now cometh the earring craze. And It one may Judse from tho rapid contagion of the fad before the sea son in out a pair of ears from which suspends no coral rosebud, carved lade of filagreed metal of antique design Is going to blush for seeming nudity. This fashion, aa old as the ages. Is revived in all Its barbaric lory. Fashion Decrees the Plctaresqne. To 'be picturesque above every thing else is the aim of today's beauty. The present day fashion in smart dressing is not the straight and sports type of frock, but toe appealing long graceful line, soft jnaterialed with picturesque trim ming. Historically correct, then, is the complimentary picturesque ear ring. Altogether an exquisite relief from the militant maid of another day not so far removed. Observing the ultra modern beauty from the crossroads of wealth and its imitators, the ear ring is no longer an article of jew elry, but an article of dress to con form to the other articles of dress, making a grand total of personality, for into the bobbing trinkets may b3 chosen a distinct and extremely Interesting personality. They Lend That Subtle Sfote. Their becoming quality is no neg ligible quantity. There is a subtle something about the modem fashion which requires the ear to b pressed into service as the means to an end of this added ornamentation. But to acquire this appealing, pic turesque, drooping, and alluring ef fect, the earrings cannot be chosen willy-nilly. No, rumor hath it that in some cases the earrings are the pivot upon which swings the design of the gown, the coiffure, and tho chapeau. One pair of earrinrs may not be allotted to any old gown or frock hanging in the closet. They are too much the center of attrac tion for that. Ban Them With Sport Clothes. They cannot be worn with port clothes without looking quite ridicu- I lous. Add them to your long lined, low waisted, long skirted crepe frock and if smartly chosen, you ac quire that individual touch which raises you out of the ranks of the commonplace. Earrings will emphasize a typo distinctly your own, providing you exercise as much individuality in their choice as you have in building up the characteristics which make you a woman apart. There are laws of design which must be conformed to in relation to the shape of the face, however. Some women are born with an 'nherent knowledge of these fundamentals. Others are not. Thus pre born tragedies in the way of decorating ears with the wrong ornaments and faces with earring designs that are all out of proportion. Selection Is Generous. It is almost impossible to say what style of earring is best suited to this and that type of fice. Kut Jewelers seem to have made provi sion for every imaginabio type, so wide and varied is the selection. Nor could one, for that matter, be deci sive about a hat or frock for certain measurements and features. It is something to be studied -jut by the individual. But there are a few gen eral observations which may htlp. The long, slender face, tay. with round and looped earrings would be saved a sharpening of the contour which the opposite character -:f ear rings would provoke. The round, full fae?, on the othtr hand, would present a more pleas inir rOTitoiir with the flnnsriiiv-r. Ions: ornamentations. Especially If the neck is slender these earrings meet with utmost success. For the piquant face, small in all its proportions, the earring fitted close is likely to be most fetching. In the concentrated space she may have quite a varied arrangement of color and stone. When worn with hats, ag.iin line may be considered to the grreates glory of the face. Some of the loner and drooping varieties of earrings will make the large hat a tMng of beauty and distinctiveness. For the turban the close fitting earrings would follow better the laws of. de sign. Tip at Least Mast Show. Because of the prevalence of the earring the coiffure threatens an extreme simplicity. As the winter season comes on with its more for mal dress and more elaborate ear decoration, it is predicted that the extremely simple coiffure and cor respondingly simple draping of the frock, will be the distinctive fash'on note. And as a consequence the ears will protrude somewhat upon the horizon because the tip ot the car, at least, must be shown to produce the most fascinating effect. The most popular type of earrings so far seems to be the tasseled, drooping ones. Some of them are frightfully expensive and others, good looking as can be, surprisingly inexpensive. Rare stones and beau tiful ones, jewelers tell me. heir looms and discarded stones oi beauty, are being fushed to shops to be reset for ear ornaments. Jade Generally Becoming;. The colors are brilliant and beau tiful and with a costume of neutral color may provide that smart dash, the meaning of which we women understand if the other halves don't. But there a word of caution. The brilliant colors may swing cruelly against a complexion which has lost its youthful bloom or exaggerate the faded tone of the eye grown bit dull and weary keeping up with the procession. There are minor chords, not sad ones, by a long odds, for such to suspend from ear lobes. .fla.de, which is perhaps more uni versally becoming than any other single color, has a tremendous fol lowing. Coral for the brunette is shown in the most lovely workman ship. Carved white jade, somewhat of a luxury, is becoming to almost every type of woman. Carved and filigreed metal designs, some fan tastic, some simple, and some me dium, are there on the tray to lure" us on to hope or destruction, how ever our choice strikes its associate face. Jet and crystal, emeralds and pearls hold forth temptation for those with the precious stone pock etbooks, designs so lovely that but to look upon and admire were joy enough. But. the main point of earring shopping is not to buy a pair of earrings, but to buy a note of in dividuality conforming to your dress, the shape of your face, and of a color that flatters. Don't purchase them in fear and trembling. Take your time about it Then when the deed is done, throw your chin a little higher to give more swing and poise,- if they be danglers, and send up a prayer of thanksgiving that it's rings for your ears and not for your nose you have to choose. PYRAMIDS IN MEXICO HOLD RELICS OF LOST PEOPLES Ancient Structures Rivaling Ruins of Old World, Give Evidence of Cultured Races, Origin and Fate of Which Remain in Mystery. I KATHBRINB ANN PORTER. In Christian Science Monitor. N MEXICAN, mythology there is a lively account of how the gods met in council and decided that their newly-made world was per fect except for the lack of light, and therefore they must create a sun and a moon. Two of them voluntarily offered themselves to the ritual by fire, and emerged immediately, first one, and then the other, as sun and moon. lighting the universe. This episode occurred, they say, at Teatihuacan, in the valley of Anahuac, now the valley of Mexico; and certainly there stand today, in this very spot, the two splendid temples built in honor of those two valorous deities. Compared with the other ruins of old Mexico, these are virtually un known. The Maya temples were crumbling when the Spaniards found them, but they were never covered over with earth. The mys tical city of Tula had fallen into the twilight of legend long before the Aztecs came to found the city of Tenochtitlan. "Of late there is even tentative speculation that this Teotlmuacan is identical with that lost city, said to have been built by the Toltecs. "Place of theGods." But the word Toltec means lit erally "builder," and is the descrip tion of an art epoch, not the name of a race. ... So the question remains archaeologically almost where it was before the discovery of this city of Teotihuacan, which is a Nahoa word signifying "The Place ot the Gods." These Nahoas, it is now believed by many scholars. were the tribe that brought ancient Mexican civilization to the higher flower of its culture, thereafter to be gradually absorbed by the more aggressive and war-like Aztec Let it be understood that I cannot, after so short a period of study, ad-1 vance the ideas of any certain g-ronp. or present theories of my own on this amazingly complicated and difficult subject. I wish merely to give a simple outline of later results of research, for the most part being carried on by Mexican historians and archaelogogists. The temples now uncovered and in process of restoration in San Juan Teotihuacan, commonly called the "Pyramides," are the most fas cinating of all the Mexican ruins, not only in themselves but because they are the core of a city literally unknown until a few years ago, and totally unaccounted' for in all Mex ican legend and history. It stands now, partially uncovered and darkly splendid, dominating a wide, deep fruitful valley, gracious as of old, wrapped within itself, keeping a curious secret to which we have not yet found the key. Mysterious Race Vanishes. The results of renewed research have far outrun the hopes of even the enthusiastic workers them selves. Here, within less than 30 miles from the present capital, they have unearthed the throne city of the ancient Nahoas, and presently we have there before us a silent more color, but was less painstak ing, less sincere, not so sharply de fined. Both Cities of Beanty. Both cities were beautiful. There was freedom enough for all the graces of wide streets and spacious gardens and houses. The valley is like an enormous bowl rimmed with mountains. On the ribrth the now extinct volcano, the Cerro Gordo, shut off the winter winds. The lava that formed and cooled on the sides of this mountain was used by the people in building the entire city. A wide quarry at the foot of the moun tain furnished the huge blocks of gray and reddish stone for the Pyramids. The black, flint-like vol canic glass, called obsidian, was used almost exclusively for the making of knives, razors, arrow heads, and tools for sculpture. Both cities came to an end by agencies unknown, in spite of many venturesome theories. But here tney are, buried at two levels. xnese vanished builders knew the secret of harmony, of symmetry, not only in planning a city, but in building it up as a natural spontaneous part of the landscape. Their architecture was in perfect accord with the line of mountains, with the very forms of trees and cacti. The pyramid of the sun dominates the whole, a sol itary brooding thing, rising splen didly at ,the foot of the volcano. From the top of this pyramid tne city plan becomes clear. The lines are often mere raised veins in the earth,' marking the streets and the walls of the houses. A few feet under the earth is the pavement, bared here and there, disclosing a perfectly-smooth surface of large squares of artificial stone, or ce ment. This belonged to tne second city. Near the pyramid of the sun is the pyramid of the moon, newly un covered, of smaller size and import ance because the second of the two gods. We see near by the begin nings of the .work on the temple or Tlaloc, god of water, and a whole cityful of mounds hardly touched as yet, each one concealing a smaller shrine. Scholars Admit Ignorance. Across the wide irrigation canal, standing alone in a glory second only to the pyramid of the sun, the square terraces of yuetzacoan s second temple appear in the lunpid air like two huge solid blocks of stone. Back of it, almost over whelming it, is a ponderous, shape less mound. Within lies, only half explored, the most mysterious of all the discoveries of Teotihuacan, the most difficult to decipher. This structure is sometimes called the temple of the God of the Winds, but Quetzalcoatl has many names and many legends. It is the stronghold of the great Mexican diety, Quetzalcoatl. Through the narrow, deep passageways winds the endless body of the plumed ser pent, the writing line broken now by an upreared head, fanged and flattened, or an altar stone in the form of an owl's head. The signifi cance of this owl, the exact mean ing of this serpent are .unknown. Attempts have been made to explain them after the same principles or symbolism of the Greeks, of the Romans, of the Egyptians, and of the Chinese. But the scholars at work here say, "We are not sure of anything' Vhere this temple is con cerned." Which is probably the beginning of knowledge. . i t All Our Exclusive French Room , ATTERN HATS y4 Off MONDAY AND TUESDAY ONLY No Exchanges umit 4k r?i t-rfS3s. No Layaways Good Advice Come Early J MASONS OFFER LOANS Sons and Daughters of Members to Be Financed in College. OREGON AGRICULTURAL COL LEGE. Corva-lLis, Or., Oct. 7. (Spe cial.) Soius and daugtitera of Ma sons in. need of financial assistance to attend college may obtain loans from the grand lodge- of . Oregon, Ancient Order Free and ' Acce-p-ted Masons, it was announced to stu dents of the Oregon Agricultural college today. The loan fund is part of the- edu cational fund of thei grand lodge of Oregon, consisting $4000, divided equally between this college and the University of Oregon. Loans will be made to needy sons and daughters of Masons a.nd Masonic students only. Interest at 4 per cent s charged and instalment methods of payment a.re permitted. Applicants must get pTelim-in-ary application blanks through Lr. L M. Atrwood, chairman of the com mittee -on the student loan fund, t Poincare's Murder Planned by German Plotters. England Takes Great Care t Protect French Premier. LONDON, Oct. 7. cautions taken -All the pre to guard the crowned heads who from time to time have visited London paled into insignificance compared with those taken to protect the French premier while here recently to do his best to try to make Germany pay up. It is said they were due to the discov ery, before he left Paris, that he had been marked down for murder by j the German plotters who killed Dr. Rathenau. Nearly 100 detectives were de tailed to guard M. Poincare, includ ing 30 sent over by the Paris Surete, the equivalent-of London's Scotland Yard. Day and night ceaseless watch was kept over him. The hotel at which he stopped was surrounded by police. Several detectives were stationed at the hotel as guests, the better to look out for any suspicious characters who might try to ap proach him. Even the preparation of his meals was superintended by chefs who were brought over from Paris. When the time came to leave the hotel each morning for the confer ence at Downing street, he was ac companied downstairs from his suite he never used the elevator by as many as eight or more detectives, who surrounded him and escorted him to his motor car. He was sim ply rushed into the automobile and at once the streets through which he was to Journey were cleared as if by magic and speed limitations were ignored. During the French premier's stay detectives scoured Soho and other haunts of anarchists or communists, listening and searching for any word or move that might denote a conspiracy against M. Pofrtonre safety. Perhaps he himself had nothing to do with It, but such ex traordinary precautions certainly conveyed the impression that while In London he was In deadly fear of his life. Three Women Seek Plmxn. HONOLULU, T. H.. Oct. -7. When President Harding on September IS signed the message amending the organization act of Hawaii to re move the disqualification of Hawaii women to hold elective office three women Immediately filed petition for nominations in the primary elc t Ion. They mre Mr. Anna K Woolsey, Mm Nrllt CartnmUh aJM Mrs. Roaall Kelilnnl. Tli firl Honolulu wmran, th con1 Hi! resident and ti third In Kf Kauai. fCuhlN-r-Secd (HI I'roritJiMe. Scientific Ami tran An oil similar to I'n'! i traded from thw arl f tutbi tree and th realdti url an fod1rr A mill has bn t ur in Malai and small ronalu nmertia hnvr sold In Kurop at aood prirr tnd"i present cond it Ion rn t M r nbbt plantations seed far thlw iij ! Boy Scouts Run Traffic. HONOLULU. T. H.f Oct. 7. Boy Scouts have been sworn in by the sheriff here to act as traffic offi cers in the vicinity of schools during the hours when children are coming to or leaving their intitution. This is an innovation in connection, with the campaign against "jay-walking" being conducted by the Honolulu Automobile club. SCIENTISTS ENDORSE IT FOR HAIR AND SCALP SEPOL the wonderful shampoo! Perfected after years of experiment the remarkable healing, cleansing and invigorating properties of this wonder-working tonic shampoo have received the endorsement of thou sands! Leaves the hair thick, glossy, lustrously beautiful delightfully easy to use! At all good drug stores Adv. E l SHEEP DIP ' fchJM SHAM POO Cli Tape's Cold Compound" Breaks a Cold in Few Hours Every druggist here guarantees each package of "Papes Cold Com pound" to break up any cold and end grippe misery in a few hours or money returned. Stuffiness, pain. headache, foverishness. inflamed or congested nose and head relieved with first dose. ThesA 8fA. rtles- ant tablets cost only a few cents, and millions now take them, instead of sickening quinine, Adv. Halloween Time Goblin Season OF course you'll want something for Halloween this year whether . it's a party, a dance or simply a few decorations. In any case we can supply your needs from our generous assortment of Halloween Goods. YOUR order for Personal En graved Greeting Cards should be placed with us within the next few days to insure delivery in December. Engraving Department Second Floor WcZKMCCCc. Third and Alder Streets mi a w m i a m I For Hjvomen- Smart and Comfortable W TELL-dressed women are immediately apprecia W tive of the trim lines and graceful appearance of the Modified Educator. And this stylish shoe delights them even more with its soothing comfort. Like all Educators it '7ers the feet grow aa they should," yet is attractive footgear for dainty feet. It is really an achievement to combine scientific prin ciples of comfort in a shoe that doesn't sacrifice style. 6 Mi tTnlm stamped like thi. It U no Olds, lYorlman & Kins' RELIABLE MERCHANDISE: RELIABLE METHODS. A