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About The Sunday Oregonian. (Portland, Ore.) 1881-current | View Entire Issue (July 16, 1922)
ter served by Its subordinates than
we have been. The work done by
the porters was prodigious and quite
unparalleled. Thus ends the second
attempt to conquer the greatest
mountain In the world.
From experience gained this year
there is no reason to believe that a
future effort will be unsuccessful,
but Mount Everest has two great
allies,, the extreme shortness of time
in which weather is fine enough and
the conditions of the mountain suit
able and those terrible westerly
The weather has broken. South
erly winds prevail and the whole
condition of the north face of Ever
est and glaciers at its foot are rap
idly changing. Where once we
walked on dry ice to camp there are
now torrents of water, and" the
mountain sides are in melting and
unstable condition. We were lucky
in completing the evacuation 'as we
The main expedition is leaving for
Kharta valley for a much-needed
rest at a much lower altitude before
returning to Darjeellng and break
ing up the expedition.
WednesdayAf ternoon Is a Half -Holiday
We Will Close Our Store at 1 P. M.
Each Wednesday, During July and August
1 That our employes might enjoy the benefits of a weekly half -holiday during July and August we
will close our store at 1 P. M. during July and August.
And we at the store, in soliciting your kind co-operation request that you do your shopping in the
more cool pleasant morning hours youH also profit by the special underpriced offerings we have
arranged in each department.
THESE OFFERINGS WILL NOT BE ADVERTISED, FOR WE WISH TO SURPRISE YOU WHEN
YOU VISIT AT OUR STORE WEDNESDAY FORENOON
Expedition Given Up After
Yellow Men and Black to
Mail Orders Promptly
Agents for the Butter- -
ick Patterns and Publics-
5 tions. All new styles now
The Store That Undersells
Parcel Post Packages
1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 s 1 1 1 1 1
Hemstitching promptly E
and perfectly executed by E
our skilled operftors. E
WEST WIND IS SEVERE
EXPERT MAKES STUDY
Three Members of Party Narrow
ly Escape Death in Moun
tain Avalanche. .
Professer Reads History of Fu
THE SUNDAY OREGONIAN. PORTLAND. JULY 16, 1922
SLIDE ON EVEREST
KILLS 7 PORTERS
DOOM OF CAUCASIAN Fi
ture Aeons in Femurs of
Many Skeletons. j
OMAHA. Neb.. July 15. (Special.)
Because It Sells for Cash
A part of the following story of the
abandonment of the Mount Everest ex
pedition was published in The Oregonlan
of yesterday. Owing to the faot that
the telegraph company garbled part of
the story in transmission and failed to
send other salient portions until too
late for the final edition of The Ore
gonlan, the entire story, properly assem
bled, is published herewith.
BY GENERAL C. Q. BRUCE, C. B.
trader of Mount Everest Expedition.
(Copyright, 11)22, by the Public Ledger
Company. Published by Arrangement,)
RONGBUK GLACIER, Base Camp,
June 11. (Special cable.) June 1
saw the final try for Everest. I re
gret to have to chronicle a disaster
and terrible ending to what, up to
the time when my last dispatch was
written, had been an exceptionally
successful expedition. The expedi
tion has been abandoned owing to
a disaster in which seven porters
were killed. Three others had nar
row escapes from. death in, the ava
lanche. I can only say that bad as the dis
aster was, It aa nearly as possible
was a much greater tragedy. Mount
Everest is a terrible enemy, and the
chances against those attacking it
are very great. It visits the small
est error of judgment with the most
terrible punishments. Like the rest
of nature, it has no pity.
Camp Are, Evacuated.
The monsoon was approaching and
little time was left. Unfortunately
already some of the party, named
Struit, Longstaff and Morshead, had
been obliged to return to Darjeel
lng, Morshead needing special treat
ment for his frostbites, while Nor
ton and Captain . Bruce were also
obliged by the state of their health
to go to a lower altitude in the
Kharta valley, and therefore were
not available. There was still, how
ever, Bix men left for a final effort.
Therefore the party was organized
with two motives.
So little time was left because of
the monsoon and consequent bad
weather that it was necessary to
arrange to evacuate the camps on
the east Rongbuk glacier and also
the camps on the slopes of Mount
Everest itself during the time an
effort to make the climb was being
It was quite clearly understood
this effort should be undertaken
only if the weather was really fine,
and the party was warned to exer
cise the greatest care.
The party consisted of Mallory,
Somervell and Finch, with their as
sistants, Wakefield and Crawford,
with Morris in- charge of the evacu
ation. Show Storm Is Encountered.
It left the main base on July 3
In threatening weather. During the
night it got worse and a heavy snow
storm continued for 36 hours. Most
unluckily. Finch was feeling the re
sults of his great exertions In the
attack on Everest. On arriving at
camp one he was unable to continue
and returned to the base camp to
join the first party . returning to
uarjeeung. The remainder of the
party arrived at camp three June 6.
On June 6, the weather cleared and
the party had a day of rest in the
Up to this time monsoon condi
tions were prevalent; that ia to say,
it was warm, with a comparatively
warm south wind accompanied by
snow, but that day a freezing north
wester again set In. There are no
better conditions for getting fresh
fallen snow in trustworthy condition
than first a good melting in the hot
sun, .then at night a tremendous
drop in temperature, especially if
. assisted, by such a dry and incon
ceivably cold wind as a northwester
on Mount Everest.
Party Gets Confidence.
This was the condition that gave
the party confidence next morning
after a night .during which the ther
mometer registered 10 degrees be
low zero, that the slopes leading up
to North Col and Changla were in
trustworthy condition. So confident
were they of this that they not only
determined not to evaluate the Col,
but planned further to try for the
mountain. The caravan left camp
at 3 and at 8 o'clock Mallory, Som
ervell and Crawford were helping
with path-making to North Col, thus
hoping to relieve the others and
save them for still greater exertions
on the upper part of the mountain.
There followed 14 coolies laden with
This time the oxygen was to be
used only at the latest stages of
the climb, as it was thought better
to climb as far as possible without
it and then before distress overcame
them to continue from the highest
camps already established, using
The" lower slopes leading to North
Col were in good condition, the snow
adhering to the ice beneath in the
firmest way. This gave every hope
that this condition would be main
tained right up to the Col itself.
Climbers Swept Into Crevasse,
However, while they were travers
ing the slopes half way up to North
Col at a rather gentler angle, sud
denly an ominous crack was heard
and running right across the face
o the Col immediately the snow
began to slip. The leading party on
one rope, Mallory, Somervell, Craw
ford and one porter were carried
down, sliding about 150 feet. .
By the greatest luck the slide was
checked and all four were able to
extricate themselves unhurt at the
edge of the main slip. Looking
around for the rest of the caravan,
they saw some of the men on the
snow still further below. They got
down as quickly as possible and
found that the second rope party,
consisting of porters, had also
stopped, but on the edge of a small
Ico cliff some 6U feet high, with a
great crevasse at its foot. It was
evident that the other two rope
loads had been swept over the cliff
into the crevasse.
Three Men Rescued.
Getting down as quickly as possi
ble, they were able to rescue three
men. two of whom were buried deep
in the snow and were dug out just
in tim. The remainder of the sor
ters were buried alive beyond hope
of recovery deep In the crevasse,
with the main fall of the avalanche
on top. All hands worked for some
nours, uut were unt&iijr uuiigeu 10
relinquish their efforts after recov
ering all but one man of the six.
Those recovered were all dead.
It is terrible fb think that no
fewer than seven splendid porters
lost their lives in this tragedy. No
expedition which ever traveled In
the Himalayas or, for that matter,
jatV-4i& Korldr xa8ts
FORD'S OFFER REJECTED
SENATE COMMITTEE VOTES
9 TO 7 OJf PLAN.
Proposal for Muscle Shoals to Go
Before Upper House Despite
WASHINGTON, D. C, July 15.
Henry Ford's offer for purchase and
lease of the government's projects at
Muscle Shoals, Ala., was rejected by
the senate agriculture committee to
day by a vote of 9 to 7.
Those voting tor rejection were
Senators Norris, Page (by proxy),
McNary, Keyes, Gooding, Norbeck,
Harreld, McKinley, republicans, and
Senator Kendrick, democrat, - Wyo
ming. Those voting for a favorable
report were Senators Capper and
Ladd, republicans, and Smith, Rans
dell, Harrison, Heflin and Caraway,
Despite the adverse votes-, the
Ford proposal will be presented to
the senate for final decision through
minority reports, it was explained
by Chairman Norris.
The resolution introduced by
Chairman Norris calling for opera
tion of the- projects by a government-owned
and controlled corpora
tion also was rejected, the vote be
ing 9 to 5. Voting for rejection were
Senators Capper, Keyes, Ladd, Smith,
Ransdell, Kendrick, Harrison, Heflin
and Caraway and for acceptance
were Norris, McNary, Gooding, Nor
beck and McKinley.
Senator Ladd, republican,- North
Dakota, who introduced the Wright
bill calling for unconditional accept
ance of the Ford offer, was author
ized by th'e committee to submit one
minority report urging the senate's
acceptance of the Ford proposal.
The second minority report will
be drafted for the senate by Senator
Norris, proposing his bill for devel
opment of the shoals properties by
a government-owned and controlled
The other offers, including those
of the Alabama-Power company,
Frederick E. Engstrum and Charles
L. Engstrum and Charles L. Par
sons, also were rejected without a
record vote. The committee also
voted down without record the bill
introduced by Senator Norris at re
quest of ex-Representative Lloyd of
Missouri, proposing a semi-governmental
JAPAN EXPECTS JUSTICE
SETTLEMENT OP OLD RUS
SIAN SCORE COUNTED ON.
For Present Government's Pur
pose Is to Hold Only Northern
Part of Saghalien Island.
WASHINGTON. D. C, July IB.
The text of the foreign office state
ment in Tokio yesterday announcing
Japan's purpose to "withdraw her
troops from the mainland portion of
the province ot Saghalien, Siberia,
shows that; coupled with previous
announcements on the intended
withdrawal by October from the
Vladivostok region, it is Japan's
purpose to hold only the northern or
Russian end of the island of Sag
halien pending adjustment , with
some Russian government of Japa
nese claims arising out of the mas
sacre of Japanese trojps at Niko
lievsk. The text of . the Japanese an
nouncement as received today at the
state department follows:
"The Japanese government, con
sidering it expedient to reduce the
extent of territory occupied by Its
troops in the province of Saghalien,
has decided to withdraw by the end
of September of the present year
all Its troops from the districts op
posite the island of Saghalien.
"As for the northern or Russian
part of the island of Saghalien, it is
the intention to terminate the occu
pation as soon as a satisfactory set
tlement for the Nikolievsk massacre
Is reached." -
Japan has alwttyg drawn a distinc
tion between her forces in the o
catled maritime province of Siberia,
the region about Vladivostok, and
those In the province or old Russian
administrative district of Saghalien.
Dr. J. S. Foote of Omaha, professor
in Creighton university, has star
tled the scientific world by reading
.the wonderful story of past -ages
of man from the femur bone. Dr.
Foote sees the white race on its
death bed with the yellow and black
races in a contest' for supremacy
during future ages.
The scientist does not pretend to
say how many years, or thousands
of years, may paSB before the white
man falls to a mediocre position in
the world, but, pointing to his star
tling discovery that senility has
overtaken a majority of whites,
while the percentage of senility
among both yellows and blacks is
not nearly so large. Dr. Foote reads
a solemn warning to the white race
to prepare for Its end.
Dr. Foote Studies Bones. -
For 29 years Dr. Foote has studied
bone structure. With painstaking
care he has made studies of 1300
Individual cases. The Smithsonian
institution some time ago published
a volume concerning Dr. Foote's
discoveries and deductions after he
had examined 600 specimens. Since
that vnlnma wan issued Dr. Foote
has more than doubled the number
of cases examined. The Smithsonian
volume was edited by Dr. Hrdlicka
Dr. Foote is now working under
grant of the national dental re
search' commission, studying devel
opment of the jaws and teeth from
the lowest type of animal up to man,
hoping to find the deep underlying
causes of disease in the human
mouth and teeth.
The scientist has not confined his
studies to man, but has investigated
reptiles, birds and mammals as well.
Incidentally he finds man more
nearly related, through his bones,
to a fish than to an ape or monkey.
Femur Is "KTey"' Bone. '
The femur was selected as the
bone to be examined because of Its
large size and for the further rea
son that It is the sole bone of an
important segment of the body of
One of the startling discoveries
of Dr. Foote is that some Individual
animals have bone structure of the
type peculiar to the bones of men.
He has also found men possessing.
in part, types of bone structure pe
culiar to animals.
Three types of bone have been
definitely established by Dr. Foote
as being in existence. The earliest
form of bone he has called the first
type. But a higher type of creature
appeared on the earth and the sec
ond type of bone came into being.
From this second type the structure
slowly changed to the highest type.
The first and second type preaomi-
nates In amphibians, reptiles and
birds; the third in mammals and
man. But the third type first ap
peared among amphibians.
Human Race Given Longer Life.
Dr. Foote's discoveries give man
kind a far longer period on the
earth than science has yet given.
By computing the relative time
when various animals recorded their
existence In geological strata, scien
tists have heretofore credited man
with having appeared about 600,000
years ago. But the bone structure
of man, compared with that of ani
mals, has revealed to Dr. Foote that
the computation of man's life should
run into' seven figures at least. He
believes, from his discoveries, that
the yellow races are a million years
ahead of the black races and that
both are in the ascendency.
But the big surprise of the studies
and discoveries was that the white
race is in its senility. 'Senility was
actually found in a majority of the
bones of the white human race
which Dr. Foote examined.
WIFE READY TO FORGIVE
DESERTER OF FAMILY W OULD
, BE WELCOMED BACK.
The prestige of Oregonlan want
ads has been attained not merely by
The Oregonian's large circulation,
but by the fact that all its. readers
are interested in Oregonlan want-ads.
Pastor Who Eloped With Girl
Says He'd Rather Remain In
Prison Than Return.,
XBNIA, O., July - 15. Although
Rev. W. W. Culp, temporary pastor
of the Spring Valley Mttho'dist Epis
copal church, deserted his wife and
nine children and eloped with Miss
Esther Hughes, 19-year-old music
teacher and boarder at the Culp
home, and now is under arrest at
Port Huron, Mich., Mrs. Culp will
receive him with open arms If he
will come back.
In the midst of packing the mea
ger family belongings preparatory
to a return to her home in Indiana,
Mrs. Culp paused to affirm that
she'd stay in Spring Valley and take
her husband back if he'd "give up
the girl and act as a father should."
Meanwhile local authorities were
preparing to go to Port Huron and
bring Mr. CUlp back to Xenia to
answer a charge of desertion and
from the jail at Port Huron the
eloping pastor was quoted as saying
he'd rather remain behind the prison
bars than "return to my. wife."
He was tired of supporting a
"large family on 31200 a year," he
said. Mr. Culp and Miss Hughes
were arrested near the Michigan
city after a search which started
Immediately, after the- elopement of
iJuna-44. . ' .
Time to Think
of your Heating Problem
,for next winter. . . s '
Which shall it be?
THE first cost of the Oriental
Rug, like the first cost of
all products of true quality, is
but a trifle higher than an ordi
Disregarding the harmonious,
restful beauty, the rich color- -ing
and the wonderful silky
texture which has made the
Oriental Rug the standard of
the ages, it is a positive econ
omy a lifetime floor covering.
ATIYEH BROS., the largest
Oriental Rug dealers of the
West and among the great
dealers of the country, offer
for your selection their Unsur
passed collection at prices that
are daily convincing many that
the Oriental Rug is truly an
economy a luxurious econ
omy. AVivjcVi Bros,
( Oriental Rugs
Alder at Tenth
Come! Prof it By This Special Purchase and Sale of
GREAT HUMAN EXPERIMENT
IN HAWAII APPROVED.
Dr. Elwood Mead Thinks Move
ment to Rehabilitate Natives
Will Prove Great Success.
HONOLULU,. T. H., June 20. Ha
waii's great human experiment
colonization of lands on the Island
of Molokai by Hawaiians and part
Hawaiians in an endeavor to re
habilitate the dying race has every
chance of success, in the opinion of
Br. Elwood Mead, dean of .the col
lege of agriculture of the Univer
sity of California and head of the
California state land development
board, expressed after Dr. Mead had
made . a survey of the lands avail
able. Dr. Mead was brought to Hawaii
by the homes commission, which Is
charged with carrying on the proj
ect under the congressional act pro
viding for the experiment, in order
that the committee might have the
benefit of his advice and experience
gained from colonization projects in
Dr. Mead's main criticism of the
plans of the commission was that
the land allotted to each settler
20 acres would be too large, as It
has been ascertained in California
that a family without capital re
sources could not cultivate success
fully more than from tlfree to', 11
acres of irrigated land.
Governor Parrington, ex-officio
chairman of the homes commission,
pointed out that the rehabilitation
law provides a minimum of 20 acres
for each homesteader and that an
amendment by congress would be
necessary before farms of lesser
area could be allotted.
$105,000 DAMAGES ASKED
Pretty Teacher Says She Is Inno-
cent Victim'of Auto Chase.
SAN JOSE, Cal., July 15. (Spe
cial.) Miss Miriam Defald, pretty
school teacher of this ctty, and an
innocent victim of one of the most
sensational automobile chases in this
county; filed suit here today for
$105,000 damages against Philip Val
entine, said to the son of the
late president of the Wells Fargo
company, the one responsible for the
injuries which have made Miss De
fald a cripple for life.
She alleges that due to Valentine's
reckless, negligent and careless driv
ing of his high-powered automobile
through the streets of San Jose, she
is suffering severe internal and ex
ternal injuries and the loss of her
left leg below the hip.
She further alleges that the in
juries are the result of a collision
caused by Valentine's efforts to es
cape arrest while being pursued by
a traffic officer. Young Valentine
is said to be connected with an Oak
land publicity concern.
ARE PURE AND REFRESHING
If you want the soft, velvety,
peach-bloom of youthful coloring
and the silken, shimmering lights
in your tresses, the crowning glory
of woman and that delicate, elu
sive fragrance that clings in the
memory of a delightful personality
then use GENE PALMER'S
wonder DAY CREAM for cleansing
and refreshing the skin. The
GENE PALMER shampoo in lemon-green
soap or tar will bring out
the radiant glory of your tresses
to your supreme delight and a
dash of our toilet waters completes
the toilette and you step forth well
groomed for the day's programme.
'A A. 1 Less Than
t JLo Regular Price!
Z 50c Yd.
A famous make in standard quality that will wash and
wear most satisfactorily and that will make up beautifully
into cool, comfortble summer garments.
Not in many seasons have Scotch Ginghams been quite
so attractive in styles and colorings or more universally in
demand. What could be more important then, than this
opportunity to purchase these standard wash goods at
such a great saving?
It is a special purchase and sale of more than 200 dif
ferent styles in plaids, checks and plain colors. All crisp,
new goods desirable in every way from which you have
selection at this sale at 50 A YARD.
No Samples Cut at This Sale, but All
. Mail Orders Will Receive Our Best At
tention. None Will Be Sold to Dealers.
f Fine Wool-Mixed Camping Blankets and Auto Robes
"j Government goods secured at an extraordinary price concession they come in
regulation sale and are shown in plain colors in neat plaid styles.
" Phone your want ads to The Ore
gonlan. Main 7070, Automatic 580-95.
ALL NEW STEPS AND
POPULAR D A NCKS
GUARANTEED IN 8
Ladles .... 82.00
Gentlemen ... $5.00
. MTJRLARK HALL
23d and Washington St. Main S527
14ta and Bnrnslde. Bdwy. 2002
Class Mnrlark Hall Tuesday
Evenings, 7i30 to Ili30.
CotlUlan Rnll Friday
Eveninm. 730 to 11)30,
Private lessons either hall, all hours,
Plenty of desirable partners.
Better Optical Service
. - - fc - - m'i. It
T. LJ 1
CJ Anyone can give you his best, But when
you get your glasses here you have the ben
efit of the best trained experts plus the de
termination of a firm to give their customers
the benefit of all the. new scientific advance
ments made in the optical field.
We have the equipment that enables us to
do high-class work the most modern lens
grinding machinery, skillful, painstaking
workmen and a sound and varied experience
of many years.
These are worthy of your thought and
should command your consideration in deter
mining the source from whence you procure
your glasses. .
Our own complete lens-grinding plant on
SAVE YOUR EYES
Thompson Optical Institute
Portland's Largest, Most Modern, Best Equipped,
Exclusive Optical Establishment
201-211 Corbett Bldg., Fifth and Morrison
Since 1908 ,
Chas. A. Rusco, President and General Manager. '
Great Half-price Sales Women's
Fortunate indeed will be those prudent women who attend this
unusual sale event, for you have selection from many fashionable
garments at exactly one-half regular selling prices it is midseason
stock adjustment time with us and we wish to immediately dispose
of surplus lots and broken lines and the quickest way to do so that
we know about is to sacrifice all profits and a generous proportion
of the cost, and that is what we have done at this .sale. Here are
two of the offerings:
Just 48 Capes and Wraps
Selling Regularly From $15.00 Up to $50.00
Choice This Sale at One-Half These Figures
Space does not permit of detail description. Suffice it to say that all are from regular
stock lines desirable in both style and quality. Materials are fine Velours, Tricotines and Nor
mandy in various good colors. All are well tailored and full silk lined. Many different models
to select from in both Wraps and Capes.
' Just 20 Suits to Close at Half
Regular Values From $30.00 Up to $65.00
Included in this assortment are many pleasing styles especially becoming to women of good
taste beautifully tailored suits in Tweeds, Tricotines, Twill Cords and other materials but
mostly small sizes. Come in and look them over there's a wonderful saving here for you.
A Special Underpricing of Summer
UNDERWEAR and HOSIERY
Union Suits at 75c
Fine fitting, seasonable weight cotton Union
Suits shown in styles with regulation and
bodice top, shell, or lace knee. All sizes
from 34 to 44. -
v Sity and Fiber
Hosiery at 98cJ
High-grade Hose, made with seamed back,
seamless foot, reinforced lisle heel and toe,
lisle top and wide garter hem. Sizes 8 to 10
in new heather shades.
Summer Laces and
Special effort lias been put forth to supply your needs
at the lowest possible prices. How well we have-succeeded
you will appreciate by the savings these items bring to you.
WASH LA CES A T Sc Yd. '
50c for Bolt of 12 Yds.
Choice from the best styles in domestic and imported
Zion and French Vals, Imitation Cluny, Crochet, Torchon
and others. Edges and Insertions in popular widths and
tnany in matched patterns all in this sale at one price.
Embroideries at 10c
Edges, Beadings and In
sertions in dainty Swiss,
Cambric and Longcloth. All
Embroideries at 25c
9 to 12-inch widths in
Cambric and Longcloth
Skirtings. All in fine, well
27 4n. Swiss and Batiste Etnbr'd'y 35c Yd.
Also 17-inch Flouncing Embroideries in an extensive
showing of pretty patterns. '
5-in. Ribbons on Sale at 25c Yd.
Summer Sash and Hairbow Ribbons in 5-inch width in
all wanted plain colors. Check, plaids, stripes and novel
ties; both Taffetas and Moires of exceptionally fine quality.
6 Pairs $1.40
The celebrated Beacon Cotton Socks
made without seam on toe. All sizes
in black with white foot.
Shirts at '$3.00
Shirts of the better sort made of
standard quality Soiesette that never
disappoints styles with flat or mili
tary collar, coat effects. All sizes 14
to 17 in tan or colors. A imion-made
shirt at a fair price.
Shoes at $225
Regulation styles in tan and pearl
gray leathers and made with standard
Oxfords at $1.65
Patent leather Play Oxfords with
stitched-down soles. All sizes from 5
for child to size 2 for misses.
Three CORSET Specials
. At $1.79 at $2.45 at $2.95
r The Best of Makes R. & G., Lady
Ruth, Rengo Belt, Betsy Ross, Treo,
.Thompson, Lady Louise and Rivoli v .
Eight guaranteed makes as listed above and others equally as
well known all in this sale at three especially underpriced quotations
52 styles in all, with 19 models to select from at $1.79. Both front
and back lace, sport models, all elastic models, semi-elastic styles
and others in fancy brocades, batistes, fine' coutils, etc. Also 8 and
10-inch all-elastic sport girdles; all sizes. Extraordinary values in
guaranteed Corsets at $J,79, $2.45 and $2.95.