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About The Sunday Oregonian. (Portland, Ore.) 1881-current | View Entire Issue (July 9, 1922)
8 THE SUNDAY OREGOXIAX. PORTLAND, JULY 9, 1922 reeduiidi He ress no Vi aae e s feu tow World I toww , i y: ; 4.w -iSL v::l f"? ? 7 11 f -r- Zcntil of the Owl sfadio uses an eye y brow pencil to a p pit que optical ' I I designs on bare expanses of Tar- T jf'xJ zanne's knees When Tarzanne walks I s 1llll"r' If Ac eyes "wink!" I GREENWICH VILLAGE, long ecle- j brated as the sanctuary of free &5 V- ......, , speech and free spirits, has now . ,, 4 s g f If yielded the very latest designs in women's bV," jr f if Jj dress. Under the patronage of Kate Seai . f jp f -t brook, the village designers, weavers and ' KV V f i" f ' j modistes recently lifted the bushel raeas- - r jf J' lire from their shining light and put the - J I v8 world wise to the real thing in wearing ' ' - aPParel. ' j ' 1 ' 1 Mrs. Seabrook is the owner and oper- - , ' I ator of a coffee house in Waverley place, !i; I : New York. Not everybody knows where $ .t, ?!, 1 'I ' It is, for no sign is out and no effort to , lA I , I bring in a general patronage has ever ', ' : i . 1 been made. On this account the coffee ' i' M - , 1 "-"I'ni-nninfinwi w niiimminrmiii-imrranMj I Artists and Craftsmen (Mostly Craftswomen) Hold Their First An nual Show in Campaign to Divert a Hitherto Unenlightened Public to Batik, Tied-and-Dyed and Painted- Leg Schools of Costume Design. Ves and step-in of tangerine voile bovnd m black, by Billie, and batiked tea gown shading from palest apricot to deep red-orange, realized in fokina satin by fiago and Irene Robus Pose after poster by Ethel Plummer Studio costanie of French blue, gray and deep orchid dyed in geometrical designs. Batik by Robus, Cartoon by Tarzanne. - liouse has more the atmosphere of a clul than an inn. It is principally a plact where the bobbed-haired intelligentsia of Washington square may invite their souls, roast chestnuts and debate the difference between mutation and evolution. . ; Not long ago the girls in the village de cided they were tired of being sartorially misrepresented in the Philistine world. It was the impression north of Fourteenth street and out in the wilds of Iowa and the steppes of Georgia that a Greenwich Village lassie was all dressed up for any thing from a grande bal to a shower-bath when she was wearing a . pair of horn rimmed spectacles, a calico smock and a Bet of sandals. . . So the dressmakers decided they would put on a show.. And it was only natural that "156" should be the theater of their sartorial parade. . Plans were laid. Tony Sarg, of marionette fame, and Ethel Plummer drew posters. Achmed Abdullah, novelist , and - playwright,, volunteered as . stage director,, and Sybilla Lamont super vised the details.: Mrs. Antonio de Sanchez served cigarettes. Professional models displayed gowns and. materials. . Mrs. Seabrook presided, in a blue-green , and silver dress and long-jade earrings. The show ran for three nights. The cof fee house wag crowded.' The cognoscenti of Sheridan square were jostled a bit by slicked-up Philistines from ; uptown, and out of town, but on the whole it was a great party from first to last. , Each model did a slow .patrol up and down the length of the room while tho spectators lounged .at their ease on all sides, drank coffee and. smoked. Some ' times beautiful batiked silks were draped carelessly over the sylphs and when the patrol pirouetted the silks floated aft. At such times the male spectators forgot to lounge at ease. Then at ' Intervals the parade halted, and Bobby Edwards twanged a ukulele to the words of "The Sultan's Wives Have Got the Hives" and "Down in Greenwich Village Where the . Old Maids Go for Thrillage," or Aleta Crump did chansos, chocolate choruses and chastouschki (Russian folk songs). The gowns, wraps and lingerie man aged to be startling and practical at the same time. There were; various kinds of tea gowns- some severely simple In color; others veritable bursting bombs of : batiks. Silken house dresses, . virginal white at the tops, gradually shaded off Into soul-searing purples, scarlets and An artist's smock, perfect ly plain castor color except for '. wool embroi-. dery. . . arzanne in a masquerade dress made entirely of paper by Pearce. grease-paint design twined where the paper didn't. : suit cut low above the waist and high below. In fairness, it should be stated that her legs, as such, needed no adornment. But for the benefit of those not so well satis fied with unrelieved nature, she exhibited on her legs a black line drawing. When her knees were pressed together the audi ence saw the portrait of a man. His right eye was mounted directly on top of her .right patella and, by, manipulating her 'knee muscles in a way that wasn't ex plained she would wickedly wink this right eye. i Anna Mae Cliff of Mme. Frances', Hil- -l I methylene blues. And there were evening gowns like the aurora borealis. ;. Generally speaking though generali ties are dangerous when you are talking about the village the styles in frocks ran to modest shortness of skirt, lpng and voluminous ! sleeves " and simple lines. Dresses, for the most part,. Trere in one piece and negligees were slashed to the hip. ' -v :.; -: -:' Afternoon gowns were made largely on long lines and were interesting as to their sleeves of batik. Several colorful hand- Around the clock in apparel made, and designed in the village May Rowland retires in batik pajamas; Maxlne Sawyer in a morning or garden dress of plain and plaid ratine; she later goes to lunch in a linen costume decorated in near-East peasant embroidery; ffildred in a simple black afternoon frock' wtih sleeves batiked .in light colors;. Alden Gay in a batiked evening gown of graceful line done ' in quiet tones gray, green, black and white. woven, fabrics were shown in straight-line . batiked, another showing long harem sports dresses and capes, often worn with gay homespun scarfs and hats. : Perhaps the most fetching of these was a cherry-colored, fringed apron of home ' spun worn over an accordeon-pleated slip in' the same shade. - - ' ' - Several effective pajama- suits,, were shown, one a simple model elaborately pantalettes of red satin under a black -satin smock.' ; , A white Spanish lace shawl was ef fectively draped on one model to exhibit ' its possibilities as an evening gown. An unusually colorful Paisley with a rich .edge of, self-fringe. was worn shawl-fash-., ion as an evening wrap. XJnder-garment novelties included Alack velvet - trimmed gingham step-ins and a cherry - colored georgette chemise. Style exhibits were not confined to clothes. There was a girl named Tarzanne, of the Greenwich Village Follies, who showed the T ladies what they might do when -it -was necessary lor their knees to be bare. Tarzanne was wearing a bathing . dred of Lucille's . and Alden Gay of Tappe's showed how effectively the vil lage clothes should be worn just as they are used to showing Mrs. Fifth Avenue : how she might look if Ttfrs. Fifth Avenue looked like Anna Mae Cliff et al. The ex hibitors included a number of such typi cally village institutions as Ann's shop, Billie's Personality Shoppe, Kraftwoven, Reiss studios, the Treasure Box and the Village Weavers. The show will be a semi-annual affair, for- the village thinks it has a mission in the world.