THE SUNDAY OREGOXIAN, PORTLAND, JUNE 25, 1923
5
GAY COLORS RtJLE IN VACATION ATTIRE;
ALL-WHITE SMART BUT RATHER COSTLY
Clothes for Summer Outing Now Back of Every Woman's Thoughts Shoppers in July Sure to Have
Benefit of Wonderful Bargains.
iAxiUi
Z&issrttor- f& &?yslrtTps7 Sb ThsnS&ssSyOajr titers;
- i ..... t
VACATION clothes are at the
back of iviry o m a n's
thoughts ni-w, whatever else
she is intent upon at . the moment.
Most vacations are" planned by noiv,
though they may not actually take
place until mid-August. Anyhow,
the clothes therefor must be provid
ed and most . vacation wardrobes,
also, are planned out whether the
wearables are already' bought or
only kept in mind. ; .
Women who have only a . two
or three weeks' outing at shore
or mountains because they, are
wage - earners 'or because. the
go away only when husband
takes his vacation in August,
are waiting for the early July
bargains, After the all-summer
vacationers who have flitted from
town by the middle or end of
June have departed, the big shops i
cut down prices, and she who does
her vacation shopping in July has)
the benefit of wonderful bargains
if not quite so wide a choice. But
at any rate she-knows exactly what
she wants and what the established
styles for the summer are.
Bright Colors Popular.
For one thing, the woman who has
waited to buy knows that this is to
be a summer of very gay colors
unless one wears all white. White
sports clothes are the very smartest
thing this summer; but they do cost
a lot of money. Not only because any
costume in one-tone must be of the
best materials lacking the variety
and dash of color but also because
white clothes, worn outdors con
tinually, are so expensive to keep
immaculate. They are delectable
-three-piece costumes of white
eponge and white flannel frock and
cape, all Snowy white and destined
to spend frequent intervals at the
cleaners.. There are sport frocks of
white linen embroidered with white
soutache or hand-hemstitched. There
are airy dresses of white handker
chief linen and lovely graceful
frocks of white crepe de chine. To
go with these enchanting white cos
tumes one must have white hats and
kid strap slippers and silk ' stock
ings. But the snow-white clothes are at
the pinnacle of exclusive style, and
the great mass of summer attire is
gayly colored. The demure grays
and dashing black-and-white effects
of last year are past and gone. Dove
gray sweaters this season are on
the marked-down counters, if you
have noticed. Paris is weary of
mourning and semi-mourning and
has plunged into a very orgy of
color, and, of course, mid-summer is
the time of times to exploit gay
colored wearables.
Vacation eeds Hon In Grooves.
For a two or three weeks' vaca
tion anywhere one needs certain
clothes and, in general, these clothes
are of the same type wherever the
holiday is spent unless it is a cruise
by water or a sojourn in camp in the
wilds. At any summer colony,
wheiher you stay at a cottage or at
a .1 yur needs are: Sport clothes
fo "-day wear, dainty frocks for
lt e noon and evening or dress
up rt attire made for veranda
and uoard-walk wear only, and
dance frocks for affajrs of impor
tance at the hotel or at the yacht
club nearby. This forms the nucleus
'f your vacation wardrobe.- If you
swim you mrst have a bathing suit,
and if you golf or play tennis. sp -ciil
tosn for these sports must be
l.rovided. .Motoring and sailing must
have special wearables, too warm
enough and rough-and-ready
enough to stand rain and shine.
Most women this summer want a
tweed or homespun sport suit, suit
able for traveling and. for all-summer
sport wear. The toomespun suits
in violet, gray-blue and raspberry or
i-oral shades a;e popular for they
express tht season's ciaze for color,
unless the suit combines a loose,
sporty jacket and one-piece frock,
t-ometimes the frock is sleeveless
tu wear with thin, . cool guimpes.
Ai.u you can always pick up a
m0MM:m Jf $A Hill
saucy little hat matching the frock
in material. These gay - colored
traveling costumes of summer give
a very bright and lfvely aspect to
every railroad terminal now on a
Saturday w hen ' week - end crowds
throng waiting rooms and plat
forms. Tweed sport and traveling suits
are quieter in color but have the
same easy,; graceful lines. They also
come in tw-o-piece models. One very
desirable suit, of mixed gray Eng
lish tweed, has a loose mandarin
jacket with small- turnover collar
and tie and a ski t that buttons at
the hiplint to a long-wais'.ed blouse
of periwink'e blue canton crepe. The
skirt may be buttoned to other
blouses, making a pleasant' variety
in the costume.
; A most charming item of this
summer's wardrobe is the cool, flut-
Mi s fl v ,
tery frock of striped silk shirting.
The simplest models are preferred
one-piece frocks with set-in sleeves,
square pockets on the skirt and a
narrow belt of the material, at a low
waistline. A pretty frock of the sort
is of lavender and white striped
shirting with turned-back cuffs.
Eton collar a-nd pockets of plain
white rub silk cross-stitched at the
edge in lavender wool. - Nothing
cooler or more delightful for a sum
mer day could be imagined and the
silk shirting, of course, will wash
and wash!
For afternoon wear and after
supper wear at the average slimmer
reso ; a-e frocks of white linen
with bands of hemstitching in pan
els and borders; f:ocks of handker
chief linen exquisitely pintucked
and hemstitched by hand, aid frocks
of crepe de chine in the new printed
effects, the color printings massed
in spots on the frock rather than
scattered all. over it. The bloused
kimono bodice with very low sash
line and short sleeve is favored for
little silk afternoon frocks, and
skirts usually have panels or dra
pery at the sides that droop low in
an, irregular line below the edge of
the skirt itself.
Bathing Suits- Take Fringes.
Silk fringe makes your bathing
dress very smart just now. Ratrusr
narrow fringe put in several rows
is preferred, and very smart are
bathing dresses of jade or tangerine
jersey (bright color if you can wear
it this year) with lines of narrow
black fringe. To be correct, you
must positively have a big cape to
cover your bathing dress on the
beach. The cape may be of knitted
wool in soft, bright color, or of the
same material as your bathing cos
tume, and trimmed with fringe to
match.
Take your smartest dance frock
alongTYou may need it only once
but then you will need it very much.
Stunning evening gowns are worn
at summer dances, and silver slip
pers, feather fans and sparkling
coiffure bandeaux play their impor
tant part.
Any woman will perceive the prac
tical qualities of this (1957) suit at
first glance in addition to its
smartness and attractiveness. The
Prbbloms of DresmakinX
' by MadamRicker
line. The girdle should be of the
same material as you employ for
dress, as i" e unbroken line at waist
is best. .. dark blue, bottle green
or ..taupe would be g'ood colors. The
binding and facings of fushcia for
the blue and taupe and the amber
brown with the green.
Will be glad to be of further help
should you require this column.
Dear Madam Richet: I am inclosing
sampie and picture like I have dress
which I would like to make over- but
don't just know how to . so about it.
The collar and vest are of pongee, which
I do not like. . The sleeves are rather
tight. . I am 5 feet 2 inches tall, bust
3, hips 38. waist 26. weight 120. I am
rather short walsted. I don't want to
get any more goods to go with it if
1 can help it.
I am making a blouse like inclosed
sample of silk with a hip belt. Will
that be worn this summer? If not,
what can I do with it? The sleeve Is
long loose, with cuff and an inch ruffle
of pleating with round collar with the
pleating. Would like to know if that is
quite all right. I will appreciate any
suggestions you can make. I sew very
.well but cannot plan. I will thank you
now for the help I know you will give
me. MRS. J. G.
Mrs. J. G. : The fact that your
girdle extends as high has a ten
dency to cut your waist line more
than need be ar.d so if you have the
material underneath I would drop
the belt to more of the hip girdle
type. Also remove your vest and
collar and have the batiste or the
organdy. The sleeves can be short
ened and the cuff to match the col
lar be placed thereon. With the
amount of material you have in
your tunic you could fashion an en
tirely new sleeve. Also would you
not welcome an apron effect rather
than the style you now have?
The waist you are making is
quite all right and will be cool and
comfortable. The belt effect will
be worn this summer. Wear with
j-our waist a chain of the light blue
or the white beads, as with the dark
ruffling you will be glad for the
brightening.
ROSEBURG, Or., March 12. Dear
Madam Kicliet: I have a skirt of an old
dress consisting of a rather long skirt
and overskirt, like the inclosed sample,
also have two pieces of new maternal
of the same, each being about two yards
long. Both the skirt and the overskirt
are cut in three-piece fashion. I am
.,irp there is enough material in the
skirt to make a waist and sleeves for
another dress, and this would leave the
new material for the skirt. I also have
about 60 each of round and soaure lace
medallions, about iV4 incnea mi,
which exactly match the material. Ow
ing to the weave of this cloth, it has to
be made up crosswise, and it is just wide
enough to make a skirt length for me,
not allowing anything, however, for a
hem. I am 5 feet 3 inches tall, bust 40,
waist 29, hips 45. Will you kindly sug
gest a way to make this up into a
rather conservative afternoon drees? And
also please tell me what you think should
be worn as a slip with this dress. I am
43, fair, not much color.
I also have a beautiful duvetyn suit,
in a medium brown, plain tailored model.
This skirt suffered an accident and was
taken to a tailor for repair. He set in
a piece of the material (taken from the
hem across the back width, about four
inches wide and nearly across the breadth
of the skirt, which is made with tour
gores. This mend is about H inches
from the belt in the back. The coat
covers it, but I would like to have it
fixed in some way so that it can be
worn without the coat, in the house. I
am very handy with the needle and can
embroider very well. I had though of
covering the mend with some sort of
embroidery or braiding, but never have
found a pattern that 1 thought was suit
able. Owing to my height or, rather,
lack of height' do not want to use any
thing that would tend to shorten. Can
you help me to soive the problem,
please? MRS. EVELYN JOHNSON.
Evelyn Johnson, Roseburg, Or.
You are indeed fortunate to have
such unusual material, and in the
Delineator for July you will find,
on page 24, No. S844, a splendid
model for your tan "linen pine
apple'' cloth. Inasmuch as you can
not have the hem, have the bottom
border of the taffeta and the trim- !
ming as shown on the sleeves and
at the neck ai.d sash. The taffeta
I would have in the fuschia shade
and likewise the underslip. These
shades combine well and you will
have the touch of color you require.
I always hesitate in saying that
a problem is beyond solution, but in
your case the braiding of the set
in would make your skirt more
patched. If you were taller I would
suggest the block design planning
that one of the blocks should come
over the piece "in trouble," but such
a design cuts the height. With the
sash enjoying the present favor,
why not one to match your material,
keeping the long ends at the back?
HOOD RIVER, Or., May 16. Dear
Madam Richet: 1 have a blue voile
dress with gold stripes which has , a
rather full-gathered skirt with three wide
tucks and waist with Tuxedo collar and
f-ont: short sleeves, above the elbow;
vestee of tucked net, also cuffs and
cver-collar of the net. I would like to
make it look like a different dress. Khali
I have slip of same color to wear under
it? I have a royal purple sweater. Tux
edo style. What kind of skirt would
look good with this? Also have a skirt
like sample made plain with gathers in
the back. The goods is cut on the bias,
is this goods still worn and is skirt all
right as It is? What kind of blouse
shall I wear with it? I am 6 feet 3
inches tall, bust 3I inches, weigh 120
pounds and have dark hair, brown eyes
and plenty of color. Thanking you in
advance. M RS. C. D.
Mrs. C. D., Hood River. In the
Butterick Quarterly is a dress quite i
as you describe and the only change I
I would suggest would be in the
vest, collar and cuffs. The fresh
organdy or the dainty "batiste will
change your frock more than you
perhaps imagine. See page 22, model
3518. The same blue as a slip will
be best to wear with the voile.
To wear with your royal purple
sweater I would advise the cream
I flannel skirt, either in the side
! pleats or in the bow type. The skirt
which -Vou have, as per sample, is i
j in very good style and worn with
t a blouse of the gold shade as seen
, in the stripe would make a very at
' tractive outfit. Kindly see the model
skirt, may be buttoned to another
blouse or the blouse may be worn
with another skirt made intlve
same style. Coat and skirt are of
soft gray tweed and the blouse is
of periwinkle blue canton crepe.
The coat is especially graceful and
comfortable with its loose lines,
mandarin sleeve and soft roll collar
fastened by a little string tie.
Wonderfully comfortable and con
venient are these (1608) big wool
capes for motoring, sailing or sit
ting outdoors o' evenings. And noth
ing' is smarter this season than .a
knitted cape of the style pictured.
It is made of gorgeously yellow
worsted with border and cuffs in
white angora. A deep yoke gives
shapely contour over the shoulders
and the huge convertible collar may
be worn several days. A graceful
addition is the scarf tie with fringed
ends that depend from the yoke in
front. ,
Ideal for morning and sport wear
on hot summer days are these (2121)
little one-piece frocks of silk shirt
ing and the beautiful fabric laun
ders as successfully as the prover
bial muslin. The frock in the pic
ture is of white silk shirting striped
in lavender. Collar, cuffs and pock
ets are of plain white silk cross
stitched with a darker shade of lav
ender. The shady hat is of violet
straw With trimming of worsted in
two shades of violet.
saown on page 48, No. 3358, in the
Butterick. Tne fact that your skirt
is striped demands the plainer line
of blouse, and I am sure the one
numbered will please you. The
crepe de chine or taffeta will com
bine well with your material.
WEST LIXN, Or. Dear Madam
Richet: I have written once before and,
not hearing from you, will try again.
Would a little sport shirt made out of
striped silk shirting be all right for a
small boy 5 years of age? And I am
making a waist out of some very pale
p'nk crepe de chine. Would you advise
beadimr it and what color beads would
you use? The waist is for a 14-year-old
girl, who wishes it beaded. Can you tell
me where I can get the Ideal patterns?
Is a 14-year-old girl too young to wear
false fronts? WEST LINN.
WEST LINN, West Linn. Or. The
silk, shirt, for the young lad will be
quite all right if the pattern is not
too bold and large. As you know,
a grown-up can carry a design of
goodly proportion, which a small
bny cannot.
As- for the waist for your daughter,
I would not think of beading it, but
rather outline a dainty line design
in the silver thread. We see on every
hand the young girl with the apparel
of the matron and I am sure that
if you approach the subject in this
light your daughter will be happy
to accept your better judgment.
I regret that I cannot here men
tion the place from which the Ideal
patterns can be obtained.
A 14-year-old girl, or any other
aged girl, is in my opinion abso
lutely too young to- wear the false
fronts. Plenty of good- air and
wholesome living will produce the
real condition desired. I write in all
kindness, good reader, that which
I wish all mothers to see, and that
is that it behooves every parent to
be the judge in the case regarding
the clothes of her daughter. Good
sound thinking and no backsliding.
VANCOUVER, Wash. Dear Madam
Richet: I have a navy tricatine dress,
very good material, but it is too narrow.
It's bound with heavy cream flannel; it's
straight., with seams down the front; the
width is' 44 inches. 1 also made a hat,
black turban, and all around it is a pink
plume. Do you think that is all right,
or would you dye the plume another
color, if so what color and. how do you
color them?
I am 5 feet 1 inch, weight 128 pounds
and light complexion, lots of color in my
face. Please publish in the Sunday pa
per, as I do not take the daily.
VANCOUVER.
Vancouver, Vancouver. Wash. As
your dress has the flannel trim, why
not widen your skirt by adding the
inserted sides in the flannel? The
contrasting sport apparel has a su
preme place in the fashion world,
and I feel sure that you would, en
joy th's change. The Pictorial Re
view summer quarterly has, on page
42 (No. 9131), a- charming model.
Shorten your sleeves and wear a
blue or creme suede belt.
The hat which you have made is
in good style and all depends upon
the becomingness. The type of hat
to be worn with your blue sihould
be a rather wide brim with a tail
ored bow, the hat of blue and the
bow or quill of white. Plumes dye
well with the use of the home dyes
now on the market. Hang in the
shade and when dyed fluff in the
sun and curl by gently pulling the
ends over the back of a paper cut
ter. Be sure that you take your
time and care in the latter process,
otherwise the ends break and the
resmlt is an unhappy one.
Dear Madam Richet: The inclosed
sample of material Is made -surpiice
waist, with large button hole on right
side for sash to slip through, making
sash bow in back.. The skirt is in two
piece width, with front and back alike,
having iwo pleats at each side of front
with the same in the back. There is
nothing pretty or attractive about the
dress. Have had It two years and worn
it very little. I am stouter than when
it was made. What could I combine
with it to make it serviceable for this
summer and still use economy?
What material would you .suggest for
skirt to wear with my cream wool jersey
jacket and how long should I wear my
(skirts? Am 3S, rinrk blue eyes, medium
Use Cuticura and
Have Lustrous Hair
Regular shampoos with Cuticura
Soap will keep your scalp dean and
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spots of dandruff and itching, if any,
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Eyesigh! Dim?
If your eyesight is dim, your vision
blurred; if your eyes ache, itch, burn or
feel dry, get a bottle of Bon-Opto tablets
from your druggist, dissolve one in a
fourth of a glass of water and use to
bathe the eyes from two to four times
a day. Bon-Opto has given stronger
eyes, clearer, sharper vision and relief
to thousands.
Note: Doctors Bay Bon-Opto strengthen ' eye
isht 60 pgr ccat in woci'a uom is mac initinrts.
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I gill blooms. It is distinctive and has been Important in making Frostilla Fragrant Tysf I j
MiHiH Lotion so universally popular. IfiJ f
E-v Frostilla Fragrant Lotion Is kind to the skin, keeping; It protected from sun.lMtwli i
I PN1 rlna Bna dust. It soothes away all smart and pain of sunburn and windburn
I gpf and lenvea the skin soft and smooth. Then, too, it is a wonderful cleanser. ' feJk g ii
JllJtvSl After housework or garden work rub FrostUla Fragrant Lotion on the hands ;t'$'?4t: '11
HljKw and they will always stay soft, white and charming;. It has proven a won- !Er,sr? 't! ll-1
I riUsS derful base for face powder and after using- your depilatory a little Frostilla ' fcl'
BK3 Frag-rant Lotion will prevent the slightest Irritation on the underarma. . 'I
I esa lS3sL""' I. S5
I 'EES FOR THK ME-Yi FrostUla Fragrant Lotion brings skin comfort when used i'STS : JS
I 111 13 after shaving. Also a few drops on the wet brush do wonders In oftenlng ilSSSi i W I'
I g the beard. For sale everywhere in the United States and Canada. 35 cents. fl i?" p M gj
I jl l'he Frostilla Company, Dlmira, N. Y. (--7 ''fet'
brown hair and quite a bit 'of color.- I
weigh about 145, am 5 feet 5 inches, stan
erect. Would patent leather shoes be
suitable for this dress and what kind
of hat wouid you suggest?
Have a cream wool batiste dress. What
color would you think 1 should dye it?
OLIVE C. J,
Olive C. J. In sending the letter
you omitted th sample, and so I
cannot give you all the detail I
would like; but from your descrip
tion I would say that the dress with
the high waist will remodel well
after the model shown in the sum
mer quarterly of the Pictorial Re
view, page 21 (No. 9942). This type
will affordthe longer waistline and
the portion whiclv joins the blouse"
and skirt can be in contrast or of
a material of the same shade, either
one better for a touch of handwork
on the border or on the field itself.
Remove the pleats from your skirt.
If your dress has the vestee line it
will in no way lessen the general
line of the frock. If this plan does
not meet your need please write
again and send sample, for I have to
work "in the dark" under the cir
cumstances. -
With your cream sweater why not
have a skirt of Copen blue or green
and a hat to match either one of the
choice made? You alreo might care
ilZ
Instant Relief forSoreJiredJenderorAchingFeet
,f-L "Pull, Johnny, Pull!
Vy- My tore, brod, iwoOea aA
p3 ieet jua ache (ot To.' " f-'y
You're footsick! Tour feet feel
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"Tiz" makes feet remarkably
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GET RID OF YOUR FAT
Thousands of others have gotten rid of theirs WITHOUT
DIETING OR EXERCISING often at the rate of over a
pound a day and WITHOUT
has taken place.
LAYU
If you are overstout do not postpone but sit down right now and
send for mv FREE TRIAL TREATMENT and my plan whereby T
am to be PAID ONLY AFTER REDUCTION HAS TAKEN PL AC)
if you so desire. -
DR. R. NEWMAN, Licensed Physician, State of New York.
286 Fifth Avenue, New York, N. Y. Desk H-114
for the striped skirts, a cream with
a contrasting line. The gathered' or
bow pleated types are the newest
the, season offers. Eight or nine
inches above the floor line is a good
length, but the fall will show the
skirts much longer. However, in
this type of skirt the shorter length
is the more consistent.
Not having the sample, I cannot
sayas to the shoe wear.
The green or the amber brown
would be nice for the batiste.
Have just opened your letter with
the sample, and the type mentioned
will be splendid. . Wear the gray
suede pumps rather than the black
patent leather.
EUGENE, Or. Dear Madam Richet: If
you had a little girl come to live with
you and who had no clothes at all for
coming spring, how wouid you dress her?
She Is sweet and lovable, tall for her
years (12 years), fair, slender, plain fea
tures, straight hair, any color becoming
except pongee. Please advise In regard
to underthings also.
Eugene, Or. It is a sancer regret
that your letter at this date needs
no reply; but may I assure you that
I shall be glad to assist in the dress
problem in the future?- So worthy
an act as yours most truly deserves
full co-operation. -
world has ever known.
Get a box of "Tiz" at any drug
store and end foot torture for a
few cents. Never have tired, ach
ing, sweaty, smelly feet; your
shoes will fit fine and you'll only
wish you had tried "Tiz" sooner.
I Accept no substitute. Adv.
PAYMENT until reduction
FEET
I am a licensed practicing physician and personally
select the treatment for ' each individual case, thus
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My treatment will relieve that depressed, tired,
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NOW DO MY
WORKWITHEASE
Because Lydia E.Pinkham'
Vegetable Compound Re
stored My Health
Hornell. N. Y. "I was in bad health
but there didn't seem to be any one
thing the matter
with me. 1 was
tired out all over
and it was an ef
fort for me to
move. I was irri
table and could
not sleep nights
and had trouble
with my bowels
and at my periods.
It seemed that
nearly every one
around me knew
of your medicine and wanted me to
try it, so at last I took Lydia E. Pink
ham's Vegetable Compound Tablets
and Lydia E. Pinkham s Blood Medi
cine and improved every day. I do all
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plish as much in a day now as it
would have taken me a week, to do
last winter and I try to get every one
I know to take your medicine to build
them up. You are welcome to use
this letter as a testimonial if you
like." Mrs. Chas. Baker. 21 Spen
cer Ave., Hornell, N.Y.
In almost every neighborhood there
are women who know of the value
of Lydia E. Pinkham's Vegetable
Compound. They know because they
have taken it and have been helped.
Why don't you give it a trial X . .
TODAY'S BEAUTY HINT
It is not necessary to shampoo
your hair so frequently if it is en
tirely and properly cleansed each
time by the use of a really good
shampoo. The easiest to use and
quickest drying shampoo that w
can recommend to our readers is one
that brings out all the natural
beauty of the hair and may be en
joyed at very little expense, by dis
solving a teaspoonful of canthrpx,
which can be obtained from any
druggist, in a cup of hot water.
This makes a full cup of shampoo
liquid, enough so it is easy to apply
It to all the hair instead of Just to
the top of the head. This, when
rubbed into the scalp and onto every
strand of hair, chemically dissolves
all Impurities. It is very soothing
and cooling in its action, as well as
beneficial to both scalp and hair.
After rinsing out the lather so cre
ated, you will find the scalp is fresh,
clean and free from dandruff, whils
the hair dries quickly and evenly,
developing a bright luster and a
soft fiuffiness that makes it seem
very heavy. Adv.
Beauty Unsurpassed
The wonderfully refined.
Pearly-white complexion '
rendered, brings back the
sppearance of youth. Re- ',,
suits are instant Highly
antiseptic Exerts a soft and
soothing action. Over 73
yearainnte. .
Send 15 c far Trial Sb
I FIRD. T. HOPKINS ft ;
g Lr New York yJJ
SON
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