SECTION FIVE
V Women, Churches, Books,
Schools and Features
VOL. XLI
PORTLAND, OREGON, SUNDAY MORNING, JUNE 4, 1923
NO. 23 t
HATS NOW CHOSEN FIRST MP THEN FROCKS TO M
Wider Brims of Flexible Character Come In With Sunny Days French Dressmakers Provide Headgear With Frocks ---Seashells ; Are New Sort of Trimming for Milady's Hats New, Intriguing Models Appear.
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Bfc. r . ... . I -ft ---....,,,'.'--. W ...
"THERB are two types of
I those iwho 'buy frocks first then
bunt for hats to go with, them,
lid those who make the hat the nu
cleus of the costume choosing the
hat first and the frock afterward.
The latter "way is the more modern
"ray. and, perhaps the better way; for
undoubtedly the hat is the most im
portant item o the costume and gives
it Its meaning.
ters furnish dozens v of suggestions
for making hats look like, new or
look one's latest idea of what n ad-,
mirable hat should be. - -
Wide Brims Are Vsed Mow.
' As usual with the approach' of June,!
Every woman real- hat brims take on width and begin
lzes what a hat can do to a cos- to slant downward to cast shadows
turns. A plain little eport suit over the face. Only ihe saucy 'littler
worn' with, a plain sailor hat " Is eport hats, , and a , fewyery .dressy;
a country rig, or a rainy-day rig. The hats for restaurant wear -retain nar-s
am suit, accompanied by a stun- row,, turned up brims, when summer
ning; hat and veil, becomes formal and comes around.- The shady hats are of!
mar enough for a promenade down beautiful straw,' fine and satiny, and.
the. avenue. It is the hat that count's, " so flexible that 'one 'can crumple the
and women are beginning to real- shape in one's hand. and see h spring
I2- back to graceful - lines. ' These fine
Deep is the depression, dark Is the ,straw hats are expensive; some of
worry that cannot be .lightened by them cost $6, SSVeven $12 without one
going shopping for a new hat! When- bit of trimming; and if you desire an
ever a certain woman has something inexpensive summer hat it is better
worrisome hanging over her and tobuy a smartly-shaped frame 'and'
courage and optimism grow faint, she cover it with taffeta or some other
fares forth and buys herself a per- material or to have it covered by a
fectly adorable new chapeau some- friend who Is "studying , "millinery."
thing extra becom'ng and dashing. She Wo has not such & friend nowadays?
always finds that, she is gayer, A very stunning sport hat was
brighter and braver in spirit. After achieved last week by a young woman
all, while there are glad years ahead who looked hopelessly" at the supply
and hats galore one can tide over of straw models Tirived at 17 and $10.
a temporary worry and treat it as in- She wanted a violet hat to match a
significant! At least this seems to violet sweater, a pale, mauve linen
be the psychological effect of the new frock, a checked lavender and .white
hat on femininity, and most women gingham and. mauve ; parasol ; (her
will acknawledge that, it is so. summer color scheme), but a violet
-N Hats come so fast nowadays each straw hat of straw fine enough to
ilay new and Intriguing models fol- make graceful drooping ' lines '' was
low eacb other in the shop windows
prohibitive in cost. So this is what
that noboby makes a mountain over she did: She bought a. kuckram
the molehill business of selecting
spring hat" or a "summer hat1
frame that had becoming lines and
good, style. Then she sewed straw
used to be the case. If one doesn't braid in violet tone around the edge
quite like one's hat, there will be of the brim and around and. around
plenty of others to choose from new until the brim was covered, putting
models mora engaging than ever in stitches only through the straw,
a week or so. Nobody has to go When the whole brim was covered,
through a season (or dreams of doing she snipped away the bastings that
so) in the hat picked out with pain- held,.the first row to the frame: cut
ful care at its beginning. Sometimes away the buckram brim, and attached
changing the trimming on a hat wlri the wire that had edged It to th
make a new model of it; or turning outer row of , straw .braid. Another
ing It around hind-side-before or to-. row of braid was. sewed under-the
ward one side. No hatia'a hard and brim, hiding the wire.- The crown
fast proposition these days and the she covered with violet-taffeta, cord
bountifulljr supplied trimming coun-' Ihg' the 'joining scam 'of crown-top
and band. A big bunch of artificial
violets encircled by green leaves was
fastened Co the center, front of the
crown, near the" brim. And behold a
stunning hat that had the $20 look;
- A hat is more important irt the
question :of beebmingness than a
frock, i' It' is .usually the' part of wis
dom when a costume of formality has
to be select ed'f orome great occasion,;
to. find the hat' first a stunning and
becoming 1 model and' then get a
frock to go with It. This may save
a good Seal of time and. worry; for
there is nothing so .worrisome as
shopping -fora hat to match a certain'
frock. And, given that hat, the frock,
is comparatively easy to find. Some
French douturiers solve the problem
for their patrons by furnishing the
hat along with the frock, and perhaps
the correct veil, also, comes with the
outfit;' ' " ' . " ' - i
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' Lace Hats -Are Ckannlng. ". '
, Rome of. the beautiful hats of the
season for formal: affairs,, of course
are of; lade." French milliners dye
lace in delectable shades; for .example
a wide-brimmed large-crowned hat
.of periwinkle blue lade laid over taf
feta, of the same lovely snade, and
trimmed with a great, pale pink rose.
Another 'hat is of brown lace trimmed
with a garland of bright tulips. An
odd trimming, this year is shown in
dress hats seashells. The shells are
not the ordinary sort that you pick
up along the beaches of the Atlantic
coast here in America, but cunning
little translucent shells thatare al
most like beads and that come from
the chores of warmer countries. A
picture hat -of white satin veiled with
ecu lace has these little "shells sewed
all around the dg of 'the brim and
a lar-e white camelia verging to pink
at its center repeats the ton of. the
pinkish white shells." -. - ;:-
Some' of the wide-brimmed straw
hats have clusters of grapes weight
ing down the brim at one side;, others
have fluffy , -ostrich- pompons -tucked
beneath the brim and resting on the
shoulder. Very smart sport hats of
picture 'size' and made of beautiful
Fancy jdJatTrf mm ed
straw have only a band of grosgrain
ribbon and two pins with ornamental
tops thrust through the crown.
They are not the sort of sea shells
like beads along the brim of this
(1636) big summer ha of French blue
:iy? Th hlnA Uinp is in th lovp.lv
periwinkle shade and is mounted over
j-vu f - larxeia or ine same n;iu-. . large
beaches but delicate, translucent little paje pjnfc silk rose, nestling among
SneilS tnai coints lltliu mo oiiuno vfc BMUeu giccii ic.ica.unua viic auumiu
warmer countries; and they arg sewed hat in dainty picture style. .- . . ;
you pick up along bur Atlantic'
Tennis and golf headgear, of course,
does not disport plumage, but the
semi-sport., hat,., tailored in sugges
tion and worn with a tailored sport
suit at some outdoor occasion of
sporting interest is very likely to
have an ostrich plume curled under
its brim. The hat pictured (1611) is
of very fine black milan straw and
the ostrich pompon, black also,, is
tucked at a coquettish angle under
the broad hatbrim. bio other trim
ming save a narrow band of ribbon
around the crown.1 The hat mates
with a dark blue suit and a new neck--wear
set in sheer linen with almond
green embroideries. . .
Mswqts t CoiTospondonfe
by Lilian Tjtvqle '
' PORTLAND; Or., May 15. Dear Miss
Tingle: , Will you please Rive, as soon as
possible, a recipe for uncooked . strawberry
preserves. Thanking you. READER.
THOPK one. of the following recipes
may be the one you want. If not
please write again Possibly some
reader may have a better recipe,
-i For . this .type of preserve it- is
particularly Important to have per
fectly sound, clean, ripe berries,
freshly picked, '
' Uncooked Strawberry Preserves No.
1: Pick, wash and hull the berries,
packing them into sterilized pint fruit
jars. Make a rich syrup as follows:
For every pound of fruit allow one
pound of sugar and one cup of water.
Boil the syrup 15 minutes then pour
over the berries in the jars, filling
-to overflowing and taking the usual
precautions to avoid cracking the
jars. Place the jar's in a pan and
cover with glass.- Set in the hot sun
for three successive days, bringing in
at night. Seal and store in the usual
way. - -
Uncooked Strawberry Preserves No.
2: Use only perfectly clean, fresh,
sound berries. Hull but do sot wash
them. ' Weigh and allow one pound
of sugar for every pound of fruit.
Mash the berries to a pulp and mix
in the sugar, stirring until it is dis
solved. Then put up the pulp and
juice in sterilized jars, seal and set
In the sun three successive days. A
little lemon juice is sometimes a good
addition. .
This keeps ralrly well and has a
'fine fresh flavor; It is good in winter
for gelatine desserts, ' bread-sponge
puddings, ' shortcakes, ; "company",
frozen desserts. Bavarian creams, and
sauces. Placing in the sun is not ab-.
solutely necessary, 'but It said to im-;
prove it. , ... '"-
Uncooked strawberry preserve re-:
cipes are: always alluring both by
their apparent simplicity , and by the
promise of superior flavor which they
hold out; but they are rather "chancy"
and a word of warning is necessary
against any recipe which calls for a
preservative other than sugar. Avoid
all "canning ; powders'! - and " similar
tempting but often dangerous prep
arations. -,.'. .'"; : .
Personally I think the. "sunshine";
strawberries or the Danish strawberry
preserves given - below- are on - the
whole the most satisfactory way of
preserving the berries, especially the
Banish method, which will be given
later. ' " . ....
PORTLAND, Or. Dear' Miss Ting
Please give as soon as possible in The
Sunday Oregonian the recipe for Thousand
Island Dressing. Thanking- you,
- . MBS. W. K. R. :.
I am sorry you ha-ve had to wait so
long for a reply but I had to wait for.
the time limit to expire on this rec
ipe. This answer will servo for sev
eral other Inquirers. '
"Thousand-Islanu ' Dressing,' .so
called, varies so widely that it is im
possible to giv tho "recipe." A sur
vey of the types of dressing used and
the different materials that may be
added may' be ' summarized asr follows:
Materials which may be added:
Very finely chopped parsiey, chives,
Chervil', tarragon, celery leaf, celery -heart,
g,reen pepper,, canned .pimento,,'
sweet, sour or dill pickles, chill sauce,
India relish, green-olives, ripe olives,
stuffed '; olives, onion (fresn' ' or
pickled); mustard pickles, chutney,.
nasturtium seeds pickled .or fresh,
pickled .walnuts, horseradish,, canned
mushrooms, capers, blanched almonds, .
English walnuts,5 pecans, hard-boiled
eggs, flavored vinegars such as cel
ery, tarragon, chili, garlic, ',horserad-:
ish, onion, cucumber, -.' "Nabob," .. or'
"combination-salad vinegars," lemon
juice, " orange juice,, lime juice, pme-i
apple juice, Worcestershire sauce, to
basco sauce,' mushroom catsup, toma
to catsup, walnut catsup,, (for fish
salads only), anchovy sauce, paprika,
Spanish pepper, mignonette . pepper,'
English mustard, French mustaVd. Of
course only a few of these can ever
be used at one time but a list like
this is often very useful and sug
gestive. Thousand-Island Dressing, Type 1
One cup mayonnaise,' cup whipped
cream, 1 hard-boiled egg, chopped
(may be omitted), 2 tablespoons chili
sauce, 1 teaspoon Worcestershire
sauce, 1 tablespoon tomato . catsup,
2 tablespoons chopped pimento, 1
tablespoon chopped parsley,. 1 table
spoon chopped . celery, leaf or stalk,
onion juice, salt and paprlca to taste.
Thousand-Island Dressing, Type 2
.One cup stiff, cooked dressing, H cup
whipped cream, 1 tablespoon tarragon
vinegar, 1 tablespoon orange juice, 1
tablespoon finely chopped chives, 1
tablespoon chopped green' pepper, 2
tablespoons chopped pimento, 2 table
spoons chopped almonds or walnuts,
(do not use walnuts in a-salad where
the material may be darkened by
standing) a few drops of Worcester
(Conciuded on Fage S)
Dear Madam Rlchet: I have a navy;
blue tricotine dress made, like inclosed
sketch. As U is out of style- and the ma-.
terJal is still good-1 would be glad.it you
could 'suggest some way to make U over.;
am 18 years o&. 5 feet 4 Inches tall,
weigh 110 pounds and have dark brown
eyes and browii bobbed hair.
Anything you can suggest will be greatly
appreciated. ; ;.. v ,,4
.Sfnceieiy. , . ; CLARINE. t
CLARINE: With the high ,waistr,
line shown id ySur sketch and
, the long or normal line now in.
evidence, why not remodel after the
'model as shown In the summer quar
terly of the Pictorial Review, page
25, No. 9949? Have the joining mate
rial in a matching blue satin braided
in . the colorful; combinations and
connect the waist and skirt with a
foulard, having a suitable design for
'the type of dress. Cut down your
skirt to the plain line as pictured and
have the rippled cascade of the new
material. If it be in the satin have
;the embroidered ends . and finish
either "material with the pecot. I
would advise keeping the short
sleevv wearing . when on the street
the long, washable glove. , ,
model for one of your petite build.
In a- taffeta, canton 'crepe or the
serge,' also the foulard, there would
'be: a happy . result with such a type, i
'"M.1 3453 referred to a dress and if
it proved to bevin the children's de
partment then a- misprint was mad
in-the-press room. V'.-.-.-. :
Dear - Madam Rtchef. . Please suggest
pattern 'and matarlal for old lady nearly
70. Also what did you mean by No. 3453
in Spring Quarterly Designer? Have seen
-this given several times, but there is- no
such number in any but children's pat
terns. , A. B. S.,
A.; B. S.:. You do not mention the
kind of material you, wish to make
into a dress, so I cannot. give as much
freedom to the type. In the Butter
ick Quarterly for summer you will
find on page IS, No. 3153, a pretty
..Dear. Madam Richet: Tou are so ca
pable in helping all who bring their trou
bles to you, am venturing to bring mine.
I- have -a heavy serge, suit like sample
and would like to make a dress of it. As
good as new. Would like to have it good
looking with as little expense as possible,
but of couise will get whatever you sug
gest to go with it. - -The skirt Is three
piece and Jacket has plain sleeves and
two side seams in back to shoulder. It
It is out ol the question to get anything
out- ol tht. jacket what shall I get for
waist, and for a wrap to wear with all
dresses for spring and summer? What
color, material and style would you sugT
gest for a lady 52 years old with gray
hair, blue eyes, 5 feet 6 Inches tall.-, bust
45, waist 85, hips '49. can do my sewing
if you do the - planning for me.
. MRS. Z. D. ?
Mrs. Z. F. D.: Tour serge is of
beautiful quality, but far too heavy
for 'this season of the year, particu
larly so as a one-piece dress. If.yosi
feel that the skirt is not too heavy
for the summer I would then combiS
it after the model pictured in. thie
summer quarterly of the Pictorial Re
view, having the blouse of the Captoh
crepe and the trims on same and. the
sleeves of your serge. The walst'can
be of the same shade as your-5ilift
or in a contrasting material, -such, ajj
tan, gray or henna. Then to completa
the outfit r would havf tSe cap of
Canton In the same blue as your skit
and lined with the shade matching
(Concluded on Fags 4, ,
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