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About The Sunday Oregonian. (Portland, Ore.) 1881-current | View Entire Issue (May 7, 1922)
THE SUNDAY OREGONIAN, PORTLAND, MAT 7, 1922 FROCK OF BROWN CANTON CREPE, ONE-PIECE MODEL, DRAWN IN AT WAIST WITH BELT Deep Flouncing of Brown Silk Lace Is Attached Without Gathers at Hips and Same Flouncing, Falling From Shoulders, Is Caught In Under Arms. HERE (1432) is a new and most interesting effect: A draped bodice that suggests a cape, made of lace matching a deep flounce on the skirt. The frock itself is of brown canton crepe, a one-piece model drawn in at the waistline under a belt of gold braid. Deep flouncing of brown silk lace is attached without gathers at the hip and the same lace flouncfnp:, falling from the shoulders, is caught in at the waistline and un der the arms to give the effect of a draped wrap. A large veil of brown chantilly, floating over the shoulders, adds to the graceful effect of this frock. Rather different from the brief skirted dance frock of last spring is this (1125) stately affair which al most sweeps the floor. Here is the utter abandonment of any suggestion of waistline, too, the costume falling from shoulder to ankle in perfectly straight lines. The frock is made of sequined net in brilliant silver effect with rows of silver ribbon on the swinging panels of the skirt. A nar row belt of ribbon in the gorgeous Madeleine green shade adds a telling note of contrast. In a season of brllliant-hued eve ning Wraps this (1699) spotless white one will stand out like a patch of snow in a June flower garden. Agnes created this lovely garment, which is made of soft white wool crepe lined with white crepe de chine. A sloping line that suggests a shoulder cape is defined with discs of the white crepe outlined in white braid and set on in overlapping petal effect. Below this trimming and continuing over the sleeve Is a section covered with tiny white beads. Then another row of the petal trimming. The fluted collar is an important note. too. Bq Annie Blanche Shelbt . IN ORDER to offset as far as pos sible the advantage which, it is conceded, the declarant of a hand at auction enjoys in being able to see and play his two hands, the adversa ries are given a code of leads, echoes, plays, etc., the correct use of which establishes a system of communica tion between them and enables each to infer as to the other's holding. This being so. it can readily be seen that the correct use of such oonven tiono is absolutely essential to the best interests of tnose who play as adversaries. Whet, playing In this position they should strive correctly to use all recognized conventions and correctly to get and apply the infer ences they embody when employed by their partner. This is the nearest approach they can make to playing their two hands as one. Conventional leads, plays, echoes, discards, etc., apply, it should be need less to explain, only to the adversa ries, those who play against the dec larant. The declarant observes prin ciples, but not conventions, bis aim being to tn all the tricks possible, but in a manner which will tend to dt i e; ve rather than enlighten his adversaries as to his particular hold ing. His object, in other words, is to kep them guessing, to make them iitler that a certain card or cards which in reality he holds is help by their partner. "What!' I hear some player ex claim. "Has any player a right to deceive?' Is not such play unethical and dishonest?" "In what may?" I would reply. Why should the declar ant who has no partner to inform but two adversaries to deceive so play as will enable them to know just w hat he holds, and, by the process of elimination, just what is held by 6 99. thAfo T-irti1.r Tr i c an nnan f t ht nnrl there is no reason, certainly, why he should employ such mode of play as would obnglngty accommodate tnem nnri rtnt them in uossession of in ferences which could easi ly be made to work to his loss and thetr gain. It is his inalienable right to mis fnd them as far as possible in their ..ffnt-ta t - iV . . . th cHi! W alone of all the players should false card. play the mgner ratner man lower of cards in sequence, make uncon ventional leads and do all that in his power lies to confuse and hamper them. This right belongs, however, only to the declarant, and as the declarant a t une ha n ri m r v bt tltfl adversarv at another, it behooves all players j to be thoroughly familiar with rec ognized conventions and the particu tor inferences they embody. Again 1 hear a player protest that J 1 as the use of recognized conventions gives the same inferences to the declarant as to one's partner a player in using them is but giving his hand a way and putting the declarant, no less than the partner, in the way of profiting by them. The contention is undoubtedly true; at the same time it is almost universally agreed that it is far more important to inform one's partner than to deceive the declarant, and that the adversary who fails to load or play conventionally deprives himself of the benefit of a partner and plays, so to speak, against three opponents rather than against two. In other words, instead of so regulat ing his play as that he and his part ner may thoroughly combine theiF hands as that they may play 26 cards as against 26, each in reality plays 13 cards as against 39. Think of the handicap. Of all the conventional leads known to the game there is perhaps none which is more informatory or admits of the partner in his turn giving forth more useful inferences than the lead of kinp, whether led at a trump or at no trumps. When led against a trump bid the lead of king proclaims the holding of the, card immediately above or immediately below it, ace or queen. This lead, simple in itself, accom plishes three things: It gives one a look at the dummy, often when the player still holds the lead; it tells the partner precisely what high card or cards are back of it, and it admits of the partner starting or not start ing an echo, either one of which plays gives useful information. The echo is made by the play to the lead of king of a higher card of the suit, and to the next round of a lower card. It is made only when the partner holds two small cards only of the suit, or when, holding three, queen is one of them. In either and both cases it encourages the player to take a third round of the suit (unless, to be sure, the dummy has no more, when he must use dis cretion in the case), as his partner will trump the trick or win with queen. Should it be that he holds the queen and the declarant will have to trump, it has turned out a good play, as it has weakened the declarant's hand. Forcing the declarant is one of the strongest points of the adversary's play; allowing the dummy to trump, one of the weakest. But to go back to the lead of king. King when followed by ace of the suit proclaims one or more smaller cards, but not the queen. If, therefore, queen is not held by one's partner or is not with dummy, the partner reads it with declarant. "How,' it may be asked, "does the follow off king with ace deny the queen?" In this way: If king wee led from ace, king and queen, the follow for the sake of information would be queen, not ace. The fact that the king won in the first in stance would proclaim the holding of ace. Unless king, however, were fol lowed with queen, the partner nat urally would place this card with the declarant, and, in the event of his getting in the lead, late in the hand, say, after all the trumps had been played, he would refrain from leading a card of the suit, if still holding one, supposing it would be won by the declarant when the com mand in reality was held by his part ner, the leading player. So much for the lead of king when ace also is in hand. Now for the king lead from king, queen, etc. This lead also is a good lead as against a trump declaration, not so good, to be sure, as the ace-king combina tion (which in reality is the ideal combination from which to lead at a trump), but nevertheless a sound and good lead. Just as much as is the lead of king from ace, king, etc., it is in perfect accord with the principles governing the lead at a trump declaration, namely, the advisability of making one's high cards early. While, to be sure, king when led from this com bination may not hold the trick, it nevertheless forces the ace, if this card be held adversely, and makes the' queen a command card for the second round. The queen thus is able to make early, as Miss Irwin puts it, "while the going is ..good." Were the player holding this par ticular combination to lead a small card, such card could easily be won with the jack, the ace would hold good for the second round, and king and queen which would then be com manding cards, would likely be ruffed. This being so, not one card of the suit would make. Now as to the inferences from one's partner's play to one's lead of king: To this lead should he play the two spot he is not starting an echo, and either he holds two or more cards still' of the suit (if two only queen not being one) or he holds no more. If he plays the three-spot, and the two can be located, again he is not starting an echo and the inference is as above. Similarly, if he plays the four or a higher card, and all the lower ones can be definitely placed, still he is not starting an echo. Either he has two or more cards left of tne suit, if two only, one not the queen, or he has no more. If, however, he plays, say, the three spot and to the second round of the suit the two, he has made the echo, telling the leading player, his partner, that he is in position to win the next round of the suit with the queen, or that he can ruff. If before the suit is again led he makes a discard of the two-spot, the echo again is com pleted, and the partner knows def initely that he can ruff the suit. Inferences of thig nature must be taken advantage of early before the declarant has gotten in the lead and had perhaps two or more rounds of trumps, as in such case the player will likely have been led out of trumps and the object of the echo will have been defeated. When king is led from ace, king, etc., the leader is often in position to utilize the inference the echo af fords at once, but when the lead is from king, queen, etc., and ace is held by the declaring side, the de clarant generally has two or more rounds of trumps, disarming the ad versaries, and any attempt to utilize the inference would then be useless. Now, as to another exceedingly in formatory lead the lead when ace and king only are held. While in such case the player still makes his high cards early, he reverses the usual form of lead and leads ace, fol lowing with king. This form is a generally recognized convention to in dicate to one's partner that these two cards only of the suit are held and that the player can trump the third round. This, by the way. Is the only time when ace is led when king also is held. In all other cases king is the correct first-round lead. Having made these two leads, the player's next aim is to get the lead to his partner, that he may return the suit and enable him to save one or perhaps more of his small trumps. This also is an inference which must be taken advantage of early, as if the declarant gets in the lead and takes two or more rounds of trumps it will generally be too late to ruff the suit. The question, then, is how best to get the lead to one's partner. If he has made a bid there can be but one answer lead the suit he has bid. While it is important generally at once to lead the suit one's partner has bid, it ig usually better if holding an ace-king combination, more espe cially if holding ace and king only, first to make the high cards of this suit. In so doing one gives impor tant inferences as to his holding, and often furnishes the partner with a clew as to the best lead when It seems no longer advisable to go on with his own suit. In cases, however, when one's part ner has not bid and one is entirely ignorant as to his special holding, the most effectual way usually of putting him in the lead is to lead through dummy's strength broken strength, be it understood, not an ace-kins sequence, or necessarily a king-queen sequence. Suits made up as follows contain broken strength and on prin ciple are good suits to lead through: Ace and queen, with or without others; ace and jack, with or with out others; king, jack, etc.: king with one or more smaller cards; queen with one or more smaller, etc. While a lead of this nature does ' not always accomplish the end de sired, it nevertheless accomplishes it so often that a lead through strength j i regarded as one of the strongest I plays known to the game. It enables one's partner to play after the strong i An inetanilg adjusted dorp holds the tape firm and fiat nothing to tie, nothing to bulge. This Kabo model in brocade ai 2 The Reducing Wtnge hold the flemh DOWN and FLAT. Tlatterll Ohe'Brassierejbr($tout Tigures (Patent spotted lor) It reduces the diaphragm, the bust, underarm fieth nod the book. Several different models for fall and stont figures, Sises40to54. Prices range from 1 to s Telephone Tel-U-Wbers Information Bureau for nam of Kabo merchant in four eitf THE KABO COMPANY New York Chicago Sen Francisco 1 player and often admits of his win ning with a card with which other wise it would have been impossible to win. In other words, it gives one's partner the advantage of position, and position in auction has more to do in enabling one's partner to win tricks with otherwise impossible cards than many players begin , to realize. It is in order to obtain the advantage of position, in the one case, for one part ner, in the other case for the other, that those two excellent principles lead through strength and, conversely, up to weaknesshave been laid down for our guidance. Let us take a concrete example: The dealer, we will say, has the bid at "one spade." The leading player holds three small spades and ace and king only of hearts. With the two fold object of making his two com manding hearts and of getting a ruff on the third round of the suit he leads ace and then king of hearts. His aim now is to get the lead to his partner, but as he has not bid he knows nothing as to his holding. The dummy hand, however, he notes, con tains king, jack and a small club, broken strength. He, therefore, leads a club, and the declarant, who holds small clubs only, realizes his handi cap, and feels, and with reason, that however he may play, third player will likely play directly over him. This player, we will assume, holds ace, queen and one small club. He wins the first trick with the queen and then leads, not the ace of clubs (that would be exceedingly bad play), but a heart, the suit which he knows his partner will trump. The leading player trumps, and, as he now knows definitely that his partner has the ace of clubs, leads another club. The partner puts up the ace and leads a fourth heart assuming, that is, that dummy still has another heart, or that, being - void, his trumps are small in which case the leading player can doubtless put up a higher trump than he holds and again save one of his trumps. By the strict observance of con ventional play and the correct ap plication of the inferences therefrom obtained the adversaries have won six tricks (two of them trump tricks). One more and they will have set the contract. Who can say that the adversaries may not offset to a greater or less extent the very apparent advantage enjoyed by the declarant? Most Summer Petticoats Are "Shadow" Affairs. Double Strip of Material I" wed Down Center Front and Back. npHOUGH tailored street suits, sport J. costumes and dance frocks set along very well these days without petticoats beneath them, summer dresses demand petticoats and at this season the lingerie departments are showing all the new modes in petti coats to wear with dainty frocks of swiss, dimity and organdie. Most of these summer petticoats are "shad ow" petticoats, that is, they have i double strip of material down center front and back, so that there is no suggestion of . "'Showing through" Wien one stands '.n a thin frock in strong sunlight. Petticoats are all very simple now, beautifully cut at the hips and dis pensing with shirred casings of bulky belts at the top. The daintiest petti coats are of handkerchief linen trimmed at the edge with hand-scalloped or a border of Irish late. When Your Corns Hurt Use "Gets-It" Ends Corns and Calluses Quick If so-called corn "cures" have only made your feet more sore and tender. Chicken Can Be Roasted on Top of Range. And Bird Can Be Browned Just as Crisply and Delicionsly. OU can roast the Sunday chicken much more economically and brown it just as crisply and deli ciously if you do part of the cooking on top of the range and part in the oven. A four-pound bird requires at least an hour's roasting, but half an hourwlll brown it nicely if the bird has first been simmered gently out of the oven. Put your chicken, stuffed and sea soned and sprinkled with flour, in the roasting pan and pour water an inch deep in the pan. Then cover the pan and let the chicken simmer gently. The steam rising from the water wil.' do the cooking. If you have not a double roasting pan you can cover the chicken with an inverted preserving kettle. In half an hour baste the chicken well and place it in the oven to brown; and when the browning process is completed make the gravy the usual way. This is a good time for the house wife to buy the double aluminum roaster she has been yearning for or anything else in aluminum ware; for aluminum utensils, for some rea son or other, are away down in price and are scarcely anore expensive than iron pots and pans. Some utensils, however, are much better in iron ; gem pans, for instance, casserole cookers and, of course, frying pans for pan-broiling meat. Cuticura Talcum Is Soothing For Baby's Skin After a bath with warm wa ter and Cuticura Soap there is nothing more cooling and re freshing for baby's tender skin than Cuticura Talcum. PampL E.sS TmijlUO. Aidrcms: "CWnllU' oratorl,Ipt.l3r'.Halaa&4Sl Hau." Sold every where. Soap 25c. Ointment 2S and 50. Talcmn26e. Cuticura Soap ahavea without mac. don't despair. For instant, complete, permanent relief is guaranteed by the new method. A few drops of "Gets It" removes any old or new, hard or soft corn from any foot. It peels off in your fingers. Costs but a trifle everywhere. Recommended by all druggists. E. Lawrence & Co., Mfr., Chicago. Sold in Portland by Owl Drug Co.; 21 stores on Pacific coast. Adv. GIRLS! LEMON JUICE BLEACHES FRECKLES Squeeze the juice of two lemons into bottle containing three ounces of Orchard White, which any drug store will supply for a few cents, shake well, and you have a quarter pint of the best freckle and tan bleach and complexion whitener. Massage this sweetly fragrant lemon lotion into the face, neck and arms and hands each day and see how freckles andi blemishes bleach out and how clear, soft and rosy-white the skin becomes. Adv. Had Close Shave "'My wife and children thought I was dying when, after an attack of acute pains in my stomach, I became unconscious. It was right after our Sunday dinner. They say I looked like dead and guess I had a pretty close shave. I had been having more or less stomach trouble and bloating with gas for past two years and could get no permanent help. Talking wltV a friend about my attack, he advised me to try Mayr's Wonderful Remedy. have not had any gas or stomach trouble since taking it eighteen months ago." It is a simple, harmless preparation that removes the catarrh al mucus from the Intestinal tract and allays the inflammation which causes practically all stomach, liver and intestinal ailments, including ap pendicitis. One dose will convince or money refunded. For sale at all druggtists. Adv. This Leaves the Arms Free From Hairy Growths (Toilet Talks.) A simple method for completely re moving every trace of hair or fuzz is here given. This is painless and usually a single treatment will banish even stubborn growths. To remove hairs, make a thick paste with some powdered delatone and water, spread on hairy surface and after about two minutes rub off, wash the skin and the hairs are gone. This method will not mar the skin, but to avoid dis appointment be certain yo get dela tone. .Adv. Beauty Bows at Shrine of Modern Chemistry FRENCHMAN'S DISCOVERY IS HERALDED AS BETTER MEANS OF ''MAKING THE FACE OVER" B lJt AS EVER, chemistry and sugery are head and head just when cosmetic surgery is at its height, comes Prof. DeVillers, noted French chemist, with a plas tic formula which "takes up" the sagging lines of the face, giving peach bloom complexions, certainly and pain lessly in the privacy of the home. This wonderful com pound he calls PLEX. NOTE THE STORY YOUR MIRROR TELLS Here is a simple way to prove what PLEX will do for you. Stand before your mirror place your hands in an upright posi tion with thumbs on the ears cover your face with your handa, so Httie fingers lay on your nose. Now mildly draw the skin by pulling your hands toward the ears until your thumbs touch at back of the head. Hold there. Study your face. What's tho result; You look several years younger don't you? PLKX will do the same thing your hands did, which proves Prof. De Villers' principle is right. PLEX pulls the tired skin of your face b::ck to place and by its powerful astringent properties, holds it there It is easy to apply certain in its work and harmless a the morning dew. Some women's faces age prematurely and they must go through life with the curse of wrinkles. Start today to "make your face over." PLEX will help you and quickly, too. By its use any one may look much younger than their age. In a few days your friends will delight you with expressions of Tiow mucn better you look," etc. It may be used in secret if you so desire. Your most intimate friends may never know. Remember that the skin is the foundation of beauty. Your face is the touchstone of your charm, so let it be your first consideration. HOW PLEX MAKES YOUR FACE OVER You make a creamy mixture from a. gray powder which you plaster all over your lace reaa or nap iw . ; " " vTTi. ?r until It dries into a thick cake or mask all WjTjfcg J . JwyM it Is drvinir you exper ence a eensatlon more delightful than '.I '".!. IX J.i: .h n llnirle with new life feel It Dull the tired skin back to place. Its action la gentle, yet po-ltlve Ft purges the skin, flashes the pores of all lmpurltle. jf.Sfflglj from a tube. You wash It off with a wet soft towel and It 1 then It reveals Its worth hardly believable In thU short time every blackhead, plmple-polnt, and overy epec-k of dirt IMUI " W'."J 'J n removed, every- wrinkles are diminished and your face will gl , ... .1.1. inff O n A V. V.tV W thing comes off with It but the skin Just natural, healthy kin l leItJLevery pore cleaned of foreign matter. This action allow, th. pores to close naturally. Tou must not expect results In nj,'n" way While it is powerful and certain in Its work. It Is painless. rure. beneficial, safe; is pure as the breath of spring. d l benefi cial to the tenderest skin. Modern custom approves and the use of harmless artifices to enrich womanly b'u,y-. TheJT,PU nothing like PLEX. sr don't confuse PLEX with face powders halr S greases, salves, plasters masks, massage. nom lotion. and that difference' IT WILL or cosmetics oi any ap : , mm a-ia. whv if does its work so surely. Now, my good woman, let. talk sense. PLEX will not take the years out of your age keep the age froai showing in your lace. WHY PLEX WORKS WONDERS NATURALLY By covering the f.oe with PLEX, you keep the air away from th. pe r.. This action bring, the blood to the aurf.ee and opens th. porea nothlnr else wnl PLEX contains a veg.t.ble oil that soe. pore, and di.aolve. any foreign matter that they may Watata.. itredient stimulates the circulation nd Invigorate, th. tired gland.. le.vln the skin smooth, clear, pink and healthy. Like all gre.t dl.eoTerlej, It. SAT s simplicity. PLEX I. a beneficial bjautlfrtr that T-u.hrfle. the face by training the .kin to function regularly and properly. KMp. indefinitely In all climates. PLEX CANNOT, WILL NOT, FAIL If directions are followed. PLEX will make dry or oily skin, normal, take out blackhead, almost Instantly, pimples certainly nd enlrg.d pore, undoubtedly, dimlnl.h wrinkles absolutely, will refresh your look, and tak. the black from under tired eyes, bleach, red noM, freckle .ploth.--hrines bloom to faded cheeks, strengthens ..gglng muscle., tightens flabby skins banishes double chins, gives beautiful contour and promote, a radiant, healthy nlow. Stop following the old method. Just try rLEX and sea how much better you look after the very first application. Ladle. wha weald reiraln or retain their beauty will find PLEX the very thing they have been looking for PLEX will make old face, look younger aid will keap yours faces from looking old. U.ed by famou. beauties, society leaders. staaT favorites and movie stars. Indorsed by America's best doctors, nurses, beauty specialists and business men and women who must have clear, healthy looking faces. NO OCCASION TO BE DOUBTFUL We want you to believe our printed word the aam aa If w talked to you face to face at the factory. We are honeat. aober, aerloua. and conarinf1rtu in our atatementa. "We have seen wonderful reaulta produced tor fLEX some almost unbelievable and by theae teata our clalma are aubatanttatd Remember the PLEX atandard of purity, the PLEX guarantee and tha PLEX fortunes back of each container marketed. Start ita uae today look better tomorrow. WE CANNOT FURNISH SAMPLES Becauae we are running the factory -night and day to capacity to fit: our orders which run Into the thousands dally. A sample, you will eee vouH necessitate extra machinery, extra help, etc The extra coat of th impli would neceesarily bo charged to the purchasra of PLEX. PLEX la com pounded from high-priced Ingredients, by hlgh-aalarled chemlata, and aM for $8.00 a container before Thomas A. Edition's suggestion made t POMlb. to cheapen the cost of production and still maintain a high standard f quality which places It within th limit Of the average purse. Moat wonwn have wished a lifetime for Just uch a compound as Prof. DeVIllar ha made possible. It sella for $2.flO a container. Not xpenslv when you con sider the work It does- PLEX will do your face more good in thirty ninuta than all the creams, skin foods and lotions have In a lifetime. Tou will b delighted with it. OF COURSE PLEX UNGUARANTEED If, after the first application, according to directions. PLBX does not produce results that you can feel and see, return th unused portion, and w will glv you your money back. PLEX has plastic properties both tried, certain and sure, that Is why we can hardly keep up with our orders. This guarantee makes the way eaay for you because you are taking no ohanc. Once you use PLEX you are ever after a satiafld customer. If your drnggrlM haa not atoefcrd It yet, amaJte mm of the coupon. PRIORITY FILL OUT THIS COUPON AND MAIL TODA Y COUPON To PLEX MFG. CO.. 209 8. 7th St., Minneapolis. Minn. Enclosed find J2.60. Send me the full slse container of PLTDt nostnaid, that has been reserved on this priority coupon wltJi th. iinderstandlnK that if I am not thoroughly satisfied with It after the first application. I may return same to you and set my money back. Nam Write Name" Plainly on This Lin.' Address Pu-t gtre'et'an" Number or Rural Rout on This Line. Town Stats Send your personal check if you wish or send In your order and pay the postman when he delivers It. Make all checka payable to PLEX MANUFACTURING CO. mLr' ' This Coupon r.ood t ntll .Jnny 7, I aa. Phone Your Want Ads to TheOregonian Main 7070, A 560-95