THE SUNDAY OREGONIAN. PORTLAND. FEBRUARY 19, 1922
EVEN DEBUTANTES WEAR BLACK SATIN
AND JET, FOR NOTHING IS SMARTER
Demi-Evening Frock. Answers for Dinners, Dances and Also for Theater Lines Are Straight and Simple,
. and Costume Is Made Graceful by Weight of Fringe.
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' cut out than ever, showing: the silk
, stocking In slashes, slits and open-.
. ings of circular, diamond, and heart
shape. A ladder effect of leather
straps makes a narrow trimming all
I around the top of one slipper. An
i other model looks like a bandage
neatly applied, so many criss-cross
straps of leather there seem to be to
hold heel and toe sections together.
A very prety slipper is of suede, fit
ting over foot and instep like a glove.
A narrow band of patent leather runs
j along one side of the top and forms a
i spiral down the instep.
A party bag for vanity outfit and
handkerchief is shaped like an old
fashioned bouquet,' the massed flow
ers backed by a frill of lace paper.
The : long stems of green enamel
form the handle of the bag, and the
nosegay lifts up to reveal a hidden
satin-lined case for milady's belongings.
; The fuzzy-looking, woolen stock
ings brushed wool they are called
are neither becoming nor grace
ful, but they are having a vogue
among younger . women for sport
wear. Modern girls do not care what
th,elr ankles look like as witness the
unbuttoned, artics. flip-flopping along
on wintry days. Very smart they are
supposed to be, but how awful they
look! Much more trim, and (ruite as
comfortable, are silk and wool stock-
ngs in rlooea errect, worn witn
heavy oxfords in sport style.
A 'new knitted frock for the houe
is of shell , pink worsted in a very
loose, open stitch, with bands of finer
knitting at the edge of the skirt and
short sleeve and in the' girdle. The
dainty frock is in one piece and the
girdle draws it in to shapely lines.
Very light, warm and pretty is the
knitted pink frock for winter morn
ings. Patent leather is the smart leather
for formal afternoon footwear; satin
Is the thing for evening slippers.
Vamps are growing longer and both
military and Louis heels are fancied.
The favored strap slipper has long
tongue straight up the instep, and
straps crossing this button to the
much cut-away sides of the slipper
fancy just now. Little fans made of
lace and Jet-are attached to long pins
and are thrust linto the hair at co
quettish angles. Square-topped combs
of shell and silver, so placed that two
combs stand at right angles to each
other are also smart and Japanesy.
A new Greek casque for evening wear
is made of silver net and jet beads n
a low-setting helmet effect that is
quite impressive.
, .
This winter some realfy stunning
card-tablff covers are being turtied
out by home needle workers, and if
you want to take your week-end
hostess out of . town an acceptable
gift, you can make her two or three
covers without spending either much
money or much time on the present.
The covers are made of black
sateen and are square very large
so that they hang well over the edge
of the table; and no strings to tie them
on are necessary, for each corner of
the cover is heavily weighed by an
enormous tassel 'attached to a big
black wooden bead, so that the cover
keeps its place without slipping.
Two thicknesses of sateen, one as a
lining, make the cover extra heavy
and substantial. Thetwo pieces of
sateen turned under anthe edges are
buttonholedogether in stitches half
an Inch deep and half an inch apartj
with orange worsted, and the "tassels
are made of the same worsted. Put a
whole skein of worsted in your big
tassels with just enough saved out
to make the buttonholing around -the
edge of the cover. .4
Linen covers which somecard play
ers prefer because of the smooth, de
lightful surface, can be maq in'the
same way. The linen covers launder
beautifully, and in soft-sage green or
pale tan they are charming for out
door bridge table? when porch days
come around. Only one thickness of
linen is necessary if you select 1
soft, Substantial quality, and 'a nar
row hem may be turned at the edge
and buttonholed with worsted; tas
sels of the same worsted weighting
the corners. At any shop where
beads and triijjjnings are sold you can
purchase the big wooden beads the
size of a mandarin orange. -And the
Japanese coiffure ornaments are fhe tassel is set just above the bead..
PfoMeitis f DrGsmakinX'1!
- bijladamRicKer
Queries concerning dressmaking will be
answered by Madam Richet. Tour prob
lems will be carefully considered and
promptly replied to. Address letters to
Madam Richet, dressmaking editor, The
Oregonian. All correspondence should be
written upon one side, of the paper only.
Replies will be made only through these
columns, answers appearing in The Ore
gonian lioth dally and Sunday.
Dear Madam Richet I profited by one
of your suggestions in making a dress some
time ago so am here again for assistance.
I am 48 years old and inclined to be stout.
R feet 4 inches tall, weigh 170 pounds.
With this description of my -appearance
will you please plan a dark blue voile
dress for me? I would like to - make it
next month, as, I will have more time then
than later. I would like the dress to be
suitable for general wear. Also am enclos
ing a picture which shows the style of a
navy blue Canton .crepe 1 have that I
wish to remodel for summer wear. My
dress has plain panels and the sleeves are
set into an underwaist. Any suggestion
will be appreciated. Also can you "see"
anything wearable in a blue serge suit
coat of five or six years back? The back
is in one piece, the front is open to the
waist with revers. has a narrow belt and
there la a generous peplum- 10 inches long.
Alsj have the front and back panel Tof
sanie serge), about 15 inches wide. I have
the skirt of this suit made into a one
piece dress, using black satin, the satin
has worn out, so now am desirious of using
the coat, the two panels and some, other
material to make another one-piece dress.
The coat is particularly becoming to me,
so could use it as the upper part. Would
blue jersey be suitable to use with it? Have
not been abie to match the material in
serge. Will enclose a sample and will
appreciate any he-lp you can give me.
Wilt be very glad to have" my reply in
Sunday Oregonian, as I do not have ac
cess to the daily. Thanking you.
Hood River, Or. EMMA GRAY.
EMMA GRAY, Hood River, Or.
That you may gain a better idea
ot the detail tljan space will
permit me to give you, wliH you
kindly see the model as .shown in the
February Pictonal- Review, No. 9823,
which is splendid for one of your
figure? The voile vest can be tucked.
The long line as produced by the long
surplice is especially good. Follow
the, skirt as wen.
The Canton crepe seems good as it
is. and the only suggestion that I
can offer is a bit of hand work added
to the panels. Use the deep, broader
design, and in a combination of tan,
blue and black. Outline the sleeves
and neck In the running stitch.
Use your jacket after the style as
shown on page 32t spring number of
the Designer, pattern 3404. and join
to a jersey skirt of same shade. Use
a piecing band if necessary and trim
as in pattern 3544. You will have
tdree good-looking gowns when fin
ished. -
There is a yard and three-quarters in the
piece, which is wide enough to make
one-piece dress if desired 54 inches wide.
That doesnot give me goods for sleeves.
although a strip about 5 inches will be
left from the length of the dress.
Would you put color on it? I am 4
years old, have light blue eyes, light hair,
but not always .color in my face; 5 feet
inches tn height.
I do not like to cut the skirt as ,the de
sign Is large and would be hard to' match.
ThanKing you for any help that you
might give, I am sincerely yours.
MRS. F. HAYES.
Mrs. F. Hayes Your serge will
combine beautifully with a henna
satin, using it for bloused waist and
the serge, leftovers from your skirt
I would use in two-inch strips as
overtrlms on waist,', trimming in
lengthwise line. Tack them at round
neck line and let them blouse in
bit longer line than the satin. Use
three in front and two in the back
fastening the waist there and using
small buttons made of the serge. You
do not mention if there is a com
bination used in the embroidery, but
may I suggest that you copy the de
siern in the strins. which will lend
a very smart touch to your dress?
The sleeves can be of set-in type
and either plain satin or strip
trimmed on their top side. The
strips should, of course, 'be loose ex
cepting at neck, and where turned
under at waist. If used on sleeves
sew in with the' sleeve at seam and
turn under ' at their bottom edge.
Wear, a narrow girdle of serge, end
ing at the side in long length and
loop.
PORTLAND, Jan. 27. Dear Madam
Richet: 1 have 4H yards broadcloth like
sample. Could I have it dyed and a dress
made of it? What color and style would
you suggest for a woman between 50 and
iio vears, 5 feet 2 inches tall, weight 150,
bust 'AS, callow complexion, hair brown,
slightly gray? The satin is , for a blouse
to match a suit. ' What style and trim
ming? Thanking you, 1 am, M. K. H.
M. E. H Your sample is so pretty
as it Is that it seems a shame to dye
it. I would like, to suggest that you
consider using it as it is and do
ing a design in the black, henna and
brown, using the rope silk. If you
want a darker color then let it be in
the Joffre blue or the mahogany. The
first to be trimmed in the black and
silver the latter in the black and gold.
In the Spring Quarterly you will find
an interesting model and one which
will be "goCd" for more than one sea
son. No. 8566. Embroider the back as
well as the front and add a lower
border if you wish it. Such a dress
will give you pleasure and service. In
the same book on page 11 is shown a
blouse which I feel is the thing best
suited for tailored suit and yet not
too "stiff" for ireneral occasions. No.
' 3093. Have the vest and collar of the
I paprika and do the design in the same
' shade as waist and gold thread.
VAN'COUVER, Wash.. Jan. 2S. Dear
Madam Richet: I have used a number of
your splendid ideas, even though they
were, not intended for me. Now I am
coming to you for some special help. .
We are planning a trip throvgh Cali-
rornia ana Colorado this summer. We
shall camp along the way, but epect to
visit friends and relatives at different
places. Our visits will be short, but we
shall be gone about two months in all.
My mother and I would like your help
in planning our clothes, both for the trip
ana ror snort visits. We must be economi
cal both as to space and money and we
uo not want to do any more washing than
we can neip. .Both of us are slender, 514
leet taw ana can wear almost any color.
i am 27 years old. 1 t
Also please suggest a container for the
extra clothes.
Will a pink crocheted yarn .hat, with
roll brim, be appropriate for spring and
early summer?
We have never been on a long trip and
wuuiu greatly appreciate your help.
iiiaiming you in aavance. is. M. H.
K. M. H., Vancouver, Wash. What
a treat you have in store. Wear tha
tan khaki outfits for travel, as they
do not show the dirt quickly. Use
knickers if you intend to do' any
hiking. Pongee waists are cool and
easily washed out.. The Norfolk type
of coat is neat and covers the large
portion of hip and back. A taffeta
dress, or a foulard, will be nice for
general wear when you reach your
cities to be visited; black pumps and
black silk hose. The sport skirt of
stripes or plain worn with batiste
waist and slipover sweater will be
nice for morning wear when visiting.
Underwear made of the pongee is a
joy when traveling, as it launders
so well. , Wear tan oxfords and hose
with the sport outfit.
Do not wear the type of hat you
speak of, as they are warm and dust
catching. A taffeta is far better. A
voile made in 'long waist and full
skirt wiyi graduated tucks will be
a practical dress for the summer.
91734 &j-d22x9jF-.
EVEN debutantes are wearing black
satin and jet this year Nothing
is smarter for ihe demi-evening
frock that answers for dinners, dances
and the ' theater. This (342) little i
tinctly suggestive of medieval splen
dor. There is not a square inch left
unembroidered except in the green
V-shaped section at front and back of
the bodice.
An extra irresrular hemline is
I'rock lias the straight, simple lines of jachieved in this (9106) evenintr frock
the moment and bands of jet fringe,
used Hke insertions, weight the soft
satin and make the costume very
graceful. The neckline, edged with
jet fringe insertion, and supported by
strands Of jet beads over the shoulder,
is Especially charming and youthful.
A black or dark blue atin frock
:-h gorgeous metallic trimming, or
"Itiaily gorceous thread embroidery,
the ideal of every young woman
st 'ii o w lor dinner-dance occasions,
I ts (9131) is a particulf.riy, stun
:i:g model in dark blue satin with a
sriat deal of embroidery in red. blue,
green and gold, the whole effect dis-
97(2-6
JScf-rcr. jf2k Jlfex- x-jvztf
in the social : festivities 'on shore.
Southland boating togs are mostly of
linen white, of course, and a good
many boat sweaters are. white, too',
this season. White one-piece linen
frocks of simple pattern are preferred
to the separate skirt and middy, and
the yacht woman's linen frock has
no ornamentation ft lace or embroid
ery. It is plain, well cut, belted
rather than sashed at the low waist
line and sometimes has the embroid
ered chevron and bars of the regula
tion middy on the sleeve.
A new collar for wear With spring
frocks is circular in shape and about
six inches deep. It is made of fine
net narrowly edged wtih real Irish
and scattered evenly over its sur
face are tiny rosettes of Irish crochet.
The collar opens at one shoulder and
gives a bertha effect with the bateau
neckline.
French -slippers tor spring are more
by attaching part of the drapery to
the arms in a sort of wing-sleeve
effect. When the arms are lifted or
lowered the hemline of the skirt va
ries in length so pleases fashion
particularly! The frock is built of
white satin and the draperies are of
white chiffon embroidered with, crys
tal .beads. A shaded orange flower
is set at the top of the bead-embroidered
girdle.
Boating clothes are a feature
of southland wear, for at Florida
resorts now are many houseboats and
yachts wintering ir the pleasant
waters, their occupants taking part
t
FO.SSH... Or.. Jan. 24. Madam Richet:
You helped me once, so 1 am coming
again for a suggestion. 1 have, a box
plaited skirt, brown, and a dull tuisli
green woolen goods which is still good
looking, and I wonder if you can tell me
what sort of a jacket to wear with It.
The Jersey "tuxedos have been worn so
much 1 thought possibly you could sug
gest something different. Thanking you
for your help, I remain, yours very truly,
MRS. P. Ji. SHORN K.
Mrs. P. N. Shornk, Fossil, Or. The
tuxedo sweaters are still worn but the
slipover in plain or striped pattern
will be greatly favored this season.
They have a round neck and in most
cases are collarless, the batiste waist
underneath with its Peter Pan neck
supplying that need. A brown or tan
would be splendid with your skirt.
It is always a pleasure to welcome
newcomers and a greater one to find
a return of others. ,
mm.
dradolflqrenz
Prof of Orthopedics
Vienna University
. .
Uy dear Ur. Kopst
Deoember 30. 1931.
My asa-x -
tea . ..,(.., navB boss isjsuw 1
taohed to.th ax la '"Ving relief, support
Mnstruotod lor the "1fe4gabdoSiuil and pelfl
and proteotion to the iaportanoe to women
orgaiB. The-a oor.et. e of grea t P tt pr0
X confer that ffSSSrtS
cotB.t. are the 00 mMned servl 0 o I p "!,-
rical PMPOflLnfort to .men Buffering with or-
l Tb the exper-leno. of th e -edioal ,
aral that aeohanloal devices which have y y ;
lite? i or tW""
SS?SSSSlf fSlturSrhlendonlou.!, wit a
woman's natural form. .
X .pciall, fc'S-WSSS
etructed. corsets fh!' " olee or walls, neph
. stretched and E,SPpw.-d etomach and ptosis,
roptosls, (floating ""Jf1pj pelYi0 organ, while
or prolapse ot yf,t9"ef immeasurable ,
other dewices in Memo Corsets are
,' value to the stout woman ""na?" tlg8ue. It seem
IbdS2en, which is heavy with enef lclal
"me that th?se corsets are PetiTel, engaged'
son, and if you will follow the model
as shown oni page 32 of -the spring
Designer you will. find in the pattern
S404 a delightful line of dress. Em
broider the collar and sleeve margins
in a band design of black, henna and
gold, using the Tope silk. Wear a
narrow girdle of the kind with long
ends, on which string China beads
to match the embroidery.
CENTRALIS, Wash., Jan. 20. Dear
Madame Richet: . Have one-piece dress,
like inclosed sample. What material and
what color would you suggest to combine
with 'it to make It over? The skirt is
plain two-piece; width around bottom
yards. The waist is perfectly plain, with
long tight seams. Have f worn it this way
a year and would like a change, if possible.
What material and what color should I
get for plain afternoon dress? Would like
something in silk. Could you suggest some
style to make it? - .
Are capes going to be worn this season?
If so, what material and. color would be
suitable for just ordinary wear?
I am 5 feet 2 inches, weigh 125 pounds;
rather full in bust. Have brown hair,
blue eyes and plenty of color. Am 25 years
old.
I surely en.ioy your column and derive
much benefit therefrom. MRS. I M. R.
Mrs. L. M. B., Centralia, Wash.
Pleased that the column is of benefit
to vou and as further help would
suggest that you make over your
dress into a semi-sport frock, as the
material is perfect for such a type.
Select a black duvetyn and have
the long waist of it joining thereon
che skirt, the width being quite fall
right as it is for this style of dress.
Cut youl- present sleeves into strips
ol two-inch widths and trim the
waist of duvetyn, outlining the round
neck and placing the strips in either
tuxedo lineor on eton jacket effect.
The sleeves of the black should be
rather close-fitting and three-quarter
lenKth, finished with a band of the
checked material. A three-quarter
length cape of the duvetyn, or the
black jersey for waist and cape,
would afford you a really stunning
outfit. Capes will be more worn than
last season. The sport clothes are
making: a particular feature of them.
Your dress can be of the slip-on type
or fastened down the back. The gir
dle, should be a combination of the
blaek (eitheV the duvetyn pr jersey)
and rings of gray, long ends at side.
'The foulards will be in evidence
tHis year, and they are always a
good buy. Choose the blue and tan
combination and make in the slight
overblouse linei with the plain, rather
full skirfc on whose either side there
should be a cascade panel of tha
foulard - or -the olain field of blue,
ith a pecoted edge and an overcast
stitch done in the tan to match the
shade in the foulard. A round neck
with, a collar of, the batiste will -be
efective.- Hemstitch the - edge and
run through a matching blue silk;
the sleeves a bit less full than they
have been and elbow length. Cuffs
of the batiste and finished as the col
lar will be effective. Wear a crush
girdle of the plain blue and end with
a smart how at the left side.
WOODBURN, Or., Jan. 28. Dear
Madam Richet: Am enclosing sample of
a coat which I wish to convert into a
orre-plece dress, and am kindly asking
you to help me. It is a long box coat,
and when ripped up will afford three large
pieces the back in one and the two
fronts so suppose the front seam will
have to be hidden In some way. The
sleeves are plain. I had hoped to get the
dress from it without having to add new
material, but I find there is nothing left
for sash or girdle, though I might be able
to get a narrow girdle. What color should
I use in the trimming of embroidery, and
what kind of thread? Or should it be
embroidered? Am 47, weight 103. am o
feet 4 inches, with medium brown hair,
gray eyes', fair with not much color. Any
suggestions you may offer will be greatly
appreciated, I assure you. -Very truly
yours. MRS. SIMPSON.
Mrs. Simpson, Woodburn, Or. The
suit dress is one of the popular nd
service-giving garments of the sea-
H.VI.SEY, Or., Jan. 25. Dear Madam
Richet: I forgot to send my sample of
goods like thei dress I want made up. so
send it today. Please look over my for
gMfulness. Yours sincerely,
OREGON PIONEER OF 1857.
Oregon Pioneer, 1857. Halsey, Or.
Your Jersey cloth will make up nicely
into a dress as shown in the Design
er's spring (quarterly) number, No.
3544. Embroider the material, as
your sample, In wisteria, Copenhagen
blue and black, the design as pictured
being Splendid. The color will please
.vou, I am sure, and will brighten tml
otherwise j-ather trying shade. Hope
we may be of further service to you.
Jan. 90. 'Dear Madafh Richet: I will
be very ' grateful if you 'wili kindly help
me with my dress.
I have a midnigh blue serge with 18
Inches of blu embroidery on the bottom.
Clogged Air Passages Open at
Once Nostrils Cleared.
IT your nostrils are clogged and
yc ur head stuffed because of catarrh
or a cold, get Ely's Cream Balm at
any drug store. Apply a little of this
pure, antiseptic, germ-destroying
cream Into your nostrils and let it
penetrate through every air passage
of your head and membranes. Instant
relief. . ' '
How good it feels. Tour head is
clear. Your nostrils are open. You
breathe freely. No more hawking or
snuffling. Head colds and catarrh
yield like magic. Don't stay stuffed
up. choked up .and miserable. ' Belief
is sure. Adv. . -
Drives Pimples
From Skin
The Wonderful Influence of Stuart's
Calcium Wafer to Beautify the Skin
by Ridding It of Pimples, BoIU,
Rash, Blotches, Muddiness, Ktc.
When you use Stuart's Calcium
Wafers you go directly after those
embarrassing pimples, blackheads
k
and other such blemishes. It is not
a round-about way. You get results
every minute. You are sure of it in
a few hours. They clear the blood,
they drive from the system the im
purities tiat cause pimples. The cal
cium goes to the skin, acts as a tonic,
stimulates the tiny nerves, pores and
blood vessels to renewed activity, and'
lo! before you realize it the skin is
peachy, firm, clear and the picture of
a sweet, rosy complexion. Get a 60
cent box today at any. drug store of
Stuart's Calcium Wafers. Adv.
BLACKHEADS GO QUICK
BY THIS SIMPLE METHOD
B lark heads big ones or Httte ones soft ones
or hard ones on any part ot the body, rq quick
by a simple method that just dissolves them.
To do this get about two ounces of calonJte
nnwder from your druggist sprinkle a little on
wet xnnnff nil over the blacKheads
brwt.1 (.. a to, aiuonds and wash off- You'll
wonder whwp the blackheads have gone. The
calonlte powder and the hot water have Just
dissolved them. Pinching and squeezing black
heads only oppo the pores or the skin and leave
them open and unsightly and unless the black
heads aro brr and soft they will not come out,
while tho simple application of calonite powder
and water dissolves them rijrht out. leaving the
skin soft and the pores in their natural condition.
You can get calonite powder at any druR store
and If you are troubled with these unsiirhtly
blemishes, you should .certainly try this aim pic
method.
Rose Tinted
Cheeks
mAHiyt r oh! how yo
rkfeWiji1 vS'l,f Wn that Roe
WI'htialediloN of healthy
)jirir, - V; '55rr jsbffeS Beauty to your cheek.'
Imnotftible
inadeauate have roufles.
nnwrlorc and naints. with .
k 1u rtA sntrnf dhmrti' nrnVPh fa he " FciT VMM OUT
laboratory has worked to make your desire possible and now we
leei cnai in
Gouraud's
(Pink)
Oriental Cream
we have placed your desire within your reach. It
renders to your cheeks a delicate, refined Rose-Tint,
so natural and subtle in effect that the use of a Toilet
Preparation cannot be detected. All of the qualities
of Gouraud's Oriental Cream have been retained
In our new product. That soft, velvety skin. Its
eothing and antiseptic effect are but a few of the
many virtues it renders to your skin and
complexion. Try it to-day and see the new
door to Beauty it opens. s
Try These Three
Gouraud's
Preparations
Jut send us 25c. andyonr
dealer's name and we will
end you a bottle of
nink nrwhltel.aluae cake of Gouraud's Medicated
C I 1 I t . ....4 lrIA t 'r.n. TtM
SOAP 1IHI a IUUC W w. ..... f .
beaut Ify. purify and cleansethe skin and complexion. "BJfCATCO '
f era. I . nopicuia at jan, now ivi
DYE SWEATER, SKIRT, DRESS
STOCKINGS OR DRAPERIES
IN "DIAMOND, DYES"
Buy "Diamond Dyes" and follow the
simple directions in every package.
Don't wonder whether you can dye or
tint successfully, because perfect home
dyeing Is guaranteed with Diamond
Dyes even if, you have never dyed be
fore. Worn." faded dresses, skirts,
waists, -coats, ' sweaters,' stockings,
draperies,, hangings, everything, be
come like new again. Just tell your
druggist whether the material you
wish to dye is wool or silk, or wheth
er it is linen, cotton or mixed goods.
Diamond D es never streak, spot, fads
or run. ' ' '.'';.