The Sunday Oregonian. (Portland, Ore.) 1881-current, February 19, 1922, SECTION FIVE, Page 4, Image 70

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Waistlines Continue ta Be Low, While Irregular Skirt Hem Prevails Sleeves Are, Slashed to Show Arm.
. --. . - Bateau Neckline Now Is Favorite. . .... .... ..
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T-vERFECT grace and utter simplic
I' ity are the first things that strike
you in spring frocks. Soft fab
rics in loose, ,'.straight, lines, low
placed girdles, panels dropping below
the edges of skirts, bodices that hang
eoftly from the shoulder instead of
curving to the figure in fitted lines,
and sleeves that are-apparently mere
widths of fabric floating over the arm
all these features make the. new
frocks exquisitely graceful. There is
not a rigid utline nor an angle any
where nor a pronounced curve. Ma
terials and trimmings seem to flow
into each other with entrancing har
mony of effect. . i ,., , , ,
Xbea you-becin-to pick out the de-
tails the new touches that express theMarch and April is of soft blue chiffon
arrival of a fresh season in fashion
Sleeves are the conspicuous features.
of course. Sleeves are utterly and en-1
tirely new and getting (as one wom-
n expressed it) "more utterly utter
every minute." Fashion seems willing
to go to any length or any width
in sleeves. And no two pairs of sleeves
are alike. Some are straight and long;
others are flaring. Some are huge at
the top and gather in at the wrist in
bishop style. Some are in the shape
of cnonmous cuffs attached above the
elbow to short kimono sleeves. Some
are slashed to show the arm. A few
are long and close-fitting, just for
the .sake of variety, it seems. A
stunning bridge frock lor wear during
velvet with a touch of fur in tassels
of beau martin, that most beautiful
and costly pelt, on the ends of a cord
gnrdle that loops at a low waistline.
The frock is perfectly simple and
straight just drawn in a bit by. the
heavy cord tassel which is gold color
to match narrow bands of gold braid
which outline the neck opening and
a-long, narrow-vestee which extends
several inches below the low waist
line. The vestee is of rust-colored
stlk and there are threads of rust
cflor in the gold braid trimming. This
simple frock has close-fitting- sleeves
tnat are so long they wrinkle over the
hand, and .the, sleeves arg trimmed in a
new way, with. fouVbapds of th.e gold
braid sewed auund the tipper part of
the sleeve in chevron style, the wrist
being plain and untrimmed. And of
course the fur tassels on the' girdle
hang below the edge of the skirt to
give that now indispensable touch of
smartness, the irregular hem line.
High Collar Here and There.
Though most of the spring frocks
show thf open neck; that is, the ba
teau neckline, or a shallow square cut
across the top of a narrow vestee, a
very, exclusive model here and there
has a tall, close stock collar which is
infinitely smart by its aloof distinc
tion. Such a collar finishes the top
of a brown crepe de chine afternoon
frock which, aside from the high, close
collar, seems to have been thrown at.
its wearer, so loose and shapeless it is.
But oh, the smartness and the grace of
that looseness! The bodice is so looe
that it drapes itself over the girdle
and into the kimono sleeve, which is
long and wide and merges with the
soft folds of the blouse at the waist
line. A wide, soft sash of the crepe is
tied at this low waistline, the knot
and ends coming under one arm. The
bodice closes down the shoulders in
lines of small, covered buttons which
run over into the sleeve as far as a
long slash at the elbow. This slash i3
lined with flesh colored chiffon, but
the effect is that of a slash showing
the bare arm beneath. The slash is
outlined With full gold braid; three
rows of the braid trim the tall collar,
and rows Of braid in groups run down
the skirt at intervals.
Black Frocks Still Craze.
Even spring with its traditional ex
ploitation of bright cheery colors
cannot displace black frocks .from fa
vor. They continue to be tremen
dously fashionable, and even the debu
tante has her black eatin evening
frock trimmed with jet. Smart little
afternoon dresses of black brocaded
silk are made with utmost simplicity;
a collarless, loose-sleeved bodice, low
girdle and slightly gathered skirt with
deep hem and behold, the particu
larly stunning frock for springtime.
Sometimes the front of the bodice is
slashed to show a vestee of contrast
ing eilk, but the fronts are caught to
gether at the top so that the vestee
is a mere line. A black brocaded crepe
frock made in this simple fashion has
apple green sik in the vestee and as a
facing under the wide, flaring kimono
sleeves. Jade green earrings are worn
with the frock.
Trotter dresses for morning wear
have the slashed bodice front faced
with contrasting color and a straight
collar is attached, turning baok with
the faced fronts at the top. Between
the fronts is set a vestee of the contrasting-
fabric perhaps gray canton
crepe or a frock of dark blue wool
jersey. But the collar and revers are
not allowed to turn all the way back
from the vestee one catches the
fronts together up near the top with
a bar pin, giving a high neckline and
vestee of bare throat above the
vestee of fabric. Just a notion of the
insweny t CorrospcrndGnt?
ty Lilian Tingle
WOLF CREEK, Or.. Jan. 3U. Dear Mias
Tingle: Since the bachelor from Molalla,
Or., has ' broken the ice" and has asked
a question. I take it for granted that I
am sate in writing you. as 1 have wanted
to do, since your advice to old bachelors
Is given so kindly.
As he Informed you regarding the bread
pudding recipes 1 can do likewise; as 1 had
racked my brain trying to find a formula
in my cook book that I could, manage, but
it being too ethical, or something of that
order (it is a very fine one), I gave it up.
But the one you furnished has now a place
in my kitchen cabinet, and 'tis often called
Into use with very fine results. Now as
you have given him the recipe for a plain
cake 1 am going to try ,it and X am sure
I can manage it with good results. .
I have no trouble with pie crust, and
make very gpod baking powder biscuit,
but I long for other kinds of bread, which
I have failed on: but 1 have been more
considerate than my Molalla brother and.
have saved the poor dogs lives by not giv
ing it to them.
We get bakery bread regular here but it
becomes old, as many other foods do, when
we do not get a variety, but I do not quite
understand how some people get along on
such straight diets. Just a few days ago.
in conversation with a brother bachelor, he
informed me that he used ight loaves of
bakery bread every week. '
There are just 25 bachelors in this
vicinity, all very we.ll - fixed as to homes
and plenty of good things to eat, but are
poorljfa fed owing to the lack or knowing
how to cook the food. It would be a bless
ing Indeed If some good fairy could happen
around and give them a lesson once in '-a
while and it would make life worth while.
I have been following your column a
good while, and take much interest in it;
and I must thank you now for the benefit
it has been to me.
It would be a very good thing If we
could get some instructions, and It makes
very little difference whether or not they
are orthodox to us; but we need results.
I suppose it would be very much un
orthodox for me to tell you how I clean my
"hot cake griddle," but here it is: When
it gets to the point where something must
be done, I Just turn it up-side down and
put it in the fireplace over a good fire,
then it is soon clean of all grease.
Is there any use that we can put into
the surplus of frylngs from ham and ba
con? I always have a lot sitting around
and outside of using it for French fried
potatoes, and a very few other uses, it
piles up. Of course it comes handy during
the deer season in frylns the meat, but
that season does not last all the year,
you know.
Trusting I have not taken too much of
your valuable time, and again thanking
you for the information . I have had from
your advice, and knowing I will receive
more, I remain,
1AM very glad to know that the
bread pudding recipe and other
things in this column have been
useful to you, and I hope I can help
you further. As a matter of fact, be
ginning with my own brothers and
including both private lessons and
public school classes for boys, I have
actually taught a lot of men to cook.
help, I find.
You and the other bachelors who
are struggling with the food prob
lem should just regard this column
as intended as much for them as for
any housekeeper, and should feel free
to use it as a "correspondence school"
whenever necessary.
First, your bread. You do not tell
me what your chief trouble seems
to be. I wonder if it is yeast, or
flour, or oven. I should think if you
get - bakery bread every week you
could also get some fresh- com
pressed yeast (by mail or otherwise),
regularly, and that would save you
the trouble of making home-made
yeast. But I will give you a recipe
for this later if you want it.
I hope you happened to see a recipe
for whole-wheat bread which I gave
recently for another correspondent.
It is easy to make and offers a nice
change from bakery bread or biscuit
Following is a plain recipe for
white bread. Next week, if you like,
I'll tell you how. you tan take a bit
of the same dough to make at the
same baking a few rolls or buns, or a
little coffee cake for a change. And
when the time limit expires I'll give
again the recipe for "everlasting
bread," or Denver biscuit, which I
should think might be very useful in
your case.
Plain white bread For every loaf
wanted allow one cup wetting. This
may be milk or water, or a mixture of
the two. For each loaf allow also one
tablespoon shortening, one or two
tablespoons sugar and one teaspoon
salt (or more to taste), with one-half
cake fresh compressed yeast, and
about three cups of sifted flour.
Scald the wetting, add the sugar,
salt and shortening and let cool to
lukewarm. Rub the yeast smpoth
with a little of the lukewarm liquid
and add it to the mixture. Now stir
in the flour. In cold weather it is a
good piftn to' w,ri ' Hour. Ur
inument and one of those little things
that make for smartness. -
Spring evening gowns are as loose
and graceful as afternoon models.
Gorgeous fabrics seem to be hung on
the figure with the least amount of
shaping so that lines are straight and
exceedingly graceful. A black satin
dinner frock is cut in straight lines
like a nightgown with short kimono
sleeves. Bands of Jet fringe, set in
like insertion, run across the skirt in
three rows at equal distance between
hem and hip. A band of the jet trim
ming crosses the frock also just abo--the
low girdle, which is of jet. An
other band runs across the top of th"
bodice, giving a bateau neckline, and
the sleeves are edged with the same
jet fringe, not hanging loose, but
caught in at the edge with a line of
beads. The weight of the jet on this
simple frock makes it extremely
graceful and simple as it is, the model
has great distinction. j
Ribbons TrlmDance Frocks.
The couturiers are using yards and
yards of ribbon as trimmings this
season. One pale jade green dance
frock depends entirely on ribbon for
its decoration. Eight or ten strands
of Jade green ribbon picot edged in
silver fall from the shoulder at front
and back at either side of the frock.
The ribbons are looped under at- the
low waistline and a gam at the hem,
and form a sort of open sleeve show
ing the arm through.
Straight, long lines in the most
pronounced manner of the mode make
this (9337) afternon frock for spring
arresting and individual. TJie loose
bodice- is absolutely simple and the
tall collar gives it distinctive smart
ness. The slevee is slashed and
underlaid with flesh-colored chiffon
to suggest the arm showing through.
The frock is of brown crepe de chine
with delicate outline embroidery in
dull gold thread. .
Straight lines are emphasized by
carrying the narrow vestee some
inches below the waist line and put
ting the waist line very low. . The
effect is shown in this (9S59) bridge
frock of dark blue chiffon velvet, em
broidered in gold and rust - colored
threads around the neck and down
either side of-the narrow rust-colored
satin vestee. Chevrons of embroidery
higli on the sleeve are a new whimsey.
And below the hem of the skirt ap
pears a petticoat of rust-colored satin,
adding an effective, trimming touch.
The gold cord girdle, has tassels of
Here (9548) again long lines and
extreme simplicity are carried to the
nth degree to achieve a very smart
effect. Only rich material could be
so smart in such exaggerated sim
plicity and the frock is made of black
satin brocade. The new- flowing
sleeves are cut out in points and the
lower pointed section is attached
above the elbow to a kimono sleeve.
Neck and front edges of the bodice
are corded and piped and the little
vestee is of flesh pink satin.
and cut until it is stiff enough to
knead. Then turn out on a floured
board and knead well. Put back into
the bowl, cover with a cloth and set
in a warm pjace until double in bulk.
Sometimes it is convenient to mix
it at night, then it rises more slowly
in a cooler room and you can finish
i; next day. .
It rises best at a temperature of 68
degrees to 72 degrees Fahrenheit. You
can hurry it a bit by keeping it
warmer, but there is danger' of its
being coarser grained and perhaps
even souring.
You can also hasten the process by
using more yeast than the amount
given above. This is sometimes con
venient. You can "hold it back" by keeping
in a cooler place, or by cutting down
once or twice when risen, if you are
not q,uite ready to bake.
Cut down once (by slashing across
the risen dough and letting out the
gas by working a little) in any case;
then let rise again to double bulk.
Next shape it into loaves (half filling
the pan). Brush with melted fat or
butter. Let rise again to nearly dou
ble bulk. Then bake about one hour.
Cool with a free circulation of air.
Let me know how you get on. With
some kinds of flour it is better to use
a little mashed potato in the wetting.
For some kinds of flour you get bet
ter results by "setting a sponge"
that is, mixing in only flour enough
to make a drop batter for the first
rising, and when that is full of bub
bles, mixing and kneading in tle re
maining flour.
. As for the bacon fat, I think it is
quite a treasure. You can use it in
your beans (instead of salt pork), or
in making bean soup or tomato soup
(good for a change), or Spanish beans
or Spanish rice, or a vegetable stew
or hash. If you like a salad some-
Use the Old-Time Sage Tea nd
Sulphur and Nobody
Will Know.
Gray hair, however handsome, de
notes advancing age. We all know the
advantage of a youthful appearance.
Your hair is your charm. It makes or
mars the face. When it fades, turns
gray, and looks streaked, just a few
applications of Sage Tea acid Sulphur
enhance its appearance a hundred
fold. Don't stay gray! Look young! Either
prepare the, recipe at home or get
from any drug store a bottle of "Wy
eth's Sage and Sulphur Compound,"
which is merely the old-time recipe
improved by the addition of other in
gredients. Thousands of folks recom
mend this ready-to-use preparation,
because it darkens the hair beauti
fully; besides, no one can possibly
tell, as it darkens so naturally and
evenly. You moisten a sponge or soft
brush with it, drawing this through
the hair, taking one small strand at a
time. By morning the gray hair dis
appears; after another application or
two its natural color is restored and
it becomes thick, glossy and lustrous
and you appear years younger. Adv.
The heat of red peppers takes the
"ouch" from a sore, lame back. It can
not hurt you, and it certainly endB the
torture at once.
When you are suffering so you can
hardly get around, just try Red Pep
per Rub. and you will have the quick
est relief known. Nothing has such
concentrated, penetrating heat as red
perpers. .
Just as soon as you apply Red Pep
pe.1 Rub you will feel the tingling
heat. In three minutes it warms the
sore spot through and through. Pain
and soreness are gone.
Ask any druggist for a jar of
Rowles Red Pepper Rub. Be sure to
get' the . genuine, with the name
Bowies on each paekkge, Adv.
times, you could use bacon .fat to
make a dressing that is good for po
tato salad or canned salmon salad or
cabbage or other vegetable salads. '
. Or you could use bacon fat in mak
ing a salmon loaf with some of your
bread crumbs and a little egg, milk
and seasoning. .
! When you have a good hot oven
you could use the bacon fat to bro,wn
peeled potatoes for a change (instead
of baking them in their jackets), and
you can rub a bit of bacon fat over
the jackets of baked potatoes to keep
them tender and flexible. Let me
know if you want any other suggesr
tions or recipes.
UNION, Or., Jan. 28. Dear Miss Tingle:
Will you please publish in the next Sunday
Oregonian (Febru.y 5) the recipe for
oyster cocktails? Your truly. U. I
I am answering your letter on the
day of its' arrival, but for many rea
sons it is never possible for me to
promise the appearance of any reply
on any given date.
The making and seasoning of oyster
cocktails is purely a matter of per
sonal taste. Following is one form
of dressing which can be very widely
varied tjy the addition of well-chosen
flavoring material -
Oyster cocktail For each person
allow about eight or ten small raw
oysters, one tablespoon tomato catsup,
one-half, tablespoon lemon juice or
vinegar, one-half teaspoon Worcester
shire sauce, two drops tabasco (to
taste), one teaspoon very finely
chopped celery (if . liked). Salt to
taste. Some makers use tarragon,
cucumber or horseradish, vinegar in
equal parts with lemon juice, instead
of all lemon juice, as above. Some
add to the dressing a small amount
of horseradish or shallot.
PORTLAND, Jan. 33. Dear Mias Tingle:
I am an interested reader of your re
cipes and would like you to send me,
through your paper, the beat and quickest
starter for light bread and hew to get
it ready for the pans.
Baking for a crew of 20 or 25 men. '
Thanking you in advance.
, . MRS. . E. L.
Fresh compressed yeast ' is the
quickest and most satisfactory "start
er" for home-made yeast to make
light bread. I am uncertain from
your question whether it is that you
want a recipe for home-made (or liq
uid) yeast or for bread. Perhaps you
could let me know, as I have not
space for both today. You certainly
must have plenty of baking to do!
PORTLAND, Jan. 20. Dear Miss Tingle:
Through the column of The Sunday Orego
nian will you 'please tell me how to bake
oranges, to be used as an appetizer, baked
without the skin? ' Thanking you. A. T.
, . A. T.
The answer is "don't." The particu
lar dietetic and "appetizer" value of
the orange is decreased by cooking.
If you wish to serve oranges as an
appetizer, serve then: diced or sliced
in a cocktail, or serve chilled orange
juice in small glasses; but don't bake
them either with or without the skin.
rrWrr' "r Prominent.
pnlsiro fat that
Comes and stays where it is not
needed is a burden, a hindrance to
activity, a curb upon pleasure, a '
thief of all that is pretty and (race
fnl and sweet in womankind. Why
don't you take off th fat where it
a ho why Yon can do so easily, safely
and without the slightest fear of
barm or bad after edeeta, by just
taking after each meal and at bed-'
time a pleasant little Mannola Pre
aeviption Tablet. Theee little tab
fete are as enecuve ana
naxmlesa as the famous
prescription from
which they take
their name. Bay
and try a ease
today. You can
thus say good
bye to dieting,
exercise and fat
and get back the
graceful figure
and poise yon
desire. One dollar for
a case is the prioe
the world over. Your
druggist or direct
from Mannola Go.,
4612 Woodward Ave,
awuoit, aucn.
JUST brush or comb a little "Browna
tone" into your gray, faded, streaked or
bleached hair and take 10 years off your
age. Thousands of prominent women in
the United States and Canada have pro
claimed "Brownatone" their best friend.
Don't experiment. Acta instantly, easily
applied at home and guaranteed harmless
to hair, scalp or skin. Any shade from
golden brown to black 50c and $1.50 at
drug and toilet counters everywhere.
Trial bottle sent direct for 10c The
Kenton PJiarmacal Co., 614 Coppln
Bids., Covington, Ky.
Dandruffy Heads
Become Hairless
If you want plenty, of thick, beau
tiful, glossy, silky hair, do by al!
means get rid of dandruff, for it will
starve your hair and ruin it if you
don't. , ,
It doesn't do much good to try to
brush or wash it out. The only sure
way to get rid of dandruff is to dis
solve it, then you destroy it entirely.
To do this, get about four ounces of
ordinary liquid arvon; apply it at
night when retiring; use enough to
moisten the scalp and rub it in gently
with the finger tips.
By morning most, if not all, of your
dandruff will be gone, and three or
four more applications will complete
ly dissolve and entire!ydestroy eery
single sign and trace of it,
.Yon will find, too, that all itching
and digging of the scalp will stop, and
your hair will look and feel a hun
dred times better. You can get liquid
arvon at any drug store. It is inex
pensive and four ounces is all you
will need, no matter how much dan
druff you have. This simple remedy
never' tails, Adv.
aV laI
The greatest line of beauty is the
curve. This beauty is an integral part
of every Lloyd Loom Baby Carriage
as shown in the exclusive "shell" de
sign of the bodies a graceful bowl
shape, woven of endless wicker, with
a continuous sweeping curve from side
to front, unbroken by corners or by
concealed short ends of wicker.
It was Marshall B. Lloyd who in
vented the method and. loom which,
weave beauty into Baby Carriages
and Wicker Furniture thirty times
faster and finer than the old hand
weaving method. These inventions
cut labor costs, enabling us to weave
the finest wickers, use the best ma
terials, employ the most skilled work
men, add the latest refinements and
still sell our wicker products at very
moderate prices.
Your dealer will explain the Fifth
Wheel Reversible Gear; Oil Tempered
Springs; Continuous Steel Pusher;
patented Double Spoked and Double
Rimmed Wheels; patented Automatic
Hood Adjustment features that add
materially to the beauty, convenience,
comfort and stability of the carriage.
. Write for Lloyd booklet showing
Lloyd Loom Carriages and Loom
Woven Furniture, for sale by leading
furniture and department stores.
MPa. ProcessJI JQ QJjfi
Baby Carriages & Furniture
The Lloyd Manufacturing Company
(Heywood-WtktAeld Co.) Lloyd
Menominee, Michigan Mmc&S
(Heywood-WaktReld Co.)
s Dept. F, Menominee, Mich.
Please send me your booklet. " Mothers of the
- World," telling about the remarkable inventions
. which made possible the wonderfully beautiful Lloyd
Loom Woven Baby Carriages and Furniture, and illustrat
ing many charming styles. ....
City .
Alkali in Shampoos
Bad for Wash mg Hair
Most soaps and prepared shampoos
contain too much alkali, which is
very injurious, as it dries the ecalp
and makes the hair brittle.
The best thing to use is Mulsified
cocoanut oil shampoo, for this is pure
and entirely greaseless. It's very
cheap and beats anything else all to
pieces. You can get Mulsified at any
drugstore, and a few ounces will last
the whole family for months.
Simply moisten tne hsir with water
and rub it in, about a teaspbonful of
Mulsified is all tnat is required. It
makes an abundance of rich, creamy
lather, cleanses thoroughly and rinses
out easily. The hair dries quickly
and'evenly, and is soft, fresh looking,
bright, fluffy, wavy, and easy to han
dle. Besides, it loosens and takes out
every particle of dust, dirt and dan
druff. Be sure your 'druggist gives
you Mulsified. Adv.
We find you can bring out the
beauty of your hair to its very best
advantage by washing it with can
throx. It makes a very simple, in
expensive shampoo, which cleanses
the hair and scalp thoroughly of all
the dandruff, dirt and excess oil,
leaving a wonderfully clean, whole
some feeling. After its use you will
find that the hair dries quickly and
evenly, is never streaked in appear
ance and is always bright, soft and
fluffy; so fluffy, in fact, that it looks
more abundant than it is, and so soft
that arranging it becomes, a pleas
ure. Just use a teaspoonful of can
throx. which you can get from any
good druggist, dissolve it in a cup of
hotawater; this makes a full cup of
shampoo liquid, enough so it is easy
to apply it to all the hair instead of
just 'the top ef the head. Adv.-
It's Easy If You Know Dr
Edwards' Olive Tablets.
The secret of keeping youhg is to
feel young to do this you must watch
your liver and bowels there's no need
of having a sallow complexion dark
rings under your eyes pimples a
bilious look in your face dull eyes
with no sparkle. Your doctor will tell
you 90 per cent of alt sickness comes
from inactive bowels and liver.
Dr. Kdwards. a well-known physi
cian in Ohio, perfected a vegetable
compound mixed with olive oil to act
on the liver and bowels, which be
gave to his patients for years.
Dr. Edwards' Olive Tablets, the sub
stitute for calomel, are gentle in their
action and yet always effective ' They
bring about that natural buoyancy
which all should enjoy by toning up
tne liver and clearing the system of
Dr Edwards' Olive Tablets ar
known by their olive color, lac and
30c. Adv.
Squeeze the juice of two lemons
into a bottle containing three ounces
o Orchard White, which any drug
store will supply for a few cents,
shake well, and you have a quarter
pint of harmless and delightful lemon
bleach lotion to soften and whiten
red. rough or chapped hands. This
home-made lemon lotion is far su
perior to Elvcerin and ros water m
smoothen the skin l-'amous stage
beauties use it to bleach and bring
that soft clear.' rosy r white com
plexion, because it doesn't irritate.
Adv. - ... ..i ...... , , . , ,