THE SUNDAY OHEGOXIAX, PORTLAND, FEBRUARY 12, 1923 LATEST LINGERIE GARMENTS ARE DESIGNED TO OCCUPY LITTLE SPACE UNDER COSTUMES Tatent Leather Pump for Street Wear, Plain Silk Stockings and Looee-Wristed Gloves Best Mode for Spring, While Business SaiU Will Meet Work and Play Needs. JV&jrr- J?jr-? CZiOtrcv - 1 '"rv ALL lingerie garment now are designed to occupy as little space aa possible under the cm turn that gors outaide. Therefore auch garments are plain and very tmple. in style, with flat hemstitch ing or embroidery for trimming and no frills or bunchea of ribbon. Ma terials are soft and limp and radium .Ik la & favorite. Very sheer hand kerchief linen Is fancied for exclu sive garments, and a pale flesh tint la preferred to chalk white. A short chemise topped by a drawstring- of ribbon, and a camlsole-knicker com bination with houlder-straps at the tor, la the lingerie allowance of most young women now-adays: though with longer skirts, petticoats are coming juiain. Thoat petticoat. too. are plain, soft and &kimpy of cut and are trimmed flatly with scallops, narrow pleating or hemstitching. Patent leather pumps with low walking heels rfre liked for street wear when one Is in tailored trim. Strap slippers ilh caby lxuis heels are fancied with dainty afternoon frocks, and there is a new high heeled colonial pump with hiph tongue and cut-steel buckie that is very graceful. Keniii slippers of black satin have buckles of flashing rhineatones. rlain silk stockings of beautiful quality: that is. of close fine weave with no transparently oleazy effect, are the best style now with pumps and slirpers. Soim-t imes I here are em broidered clocks at the side, but lace inserts and fanciful designs on hosiery are not now considered good tte Kibbed wool stocking of fins (rude are worn with sport oxfords. I.or.e wristed gloves of black glace kid. witti heavy white embroidery on the back and white stitching around the fingertips are the smart choice ith sprites tailored suit and coats. fttret clothes are always more or less of a compromise with the busi ness woman, she cannot afford two full outfits and therefore the tailored suit she depends on for holiday oc casions mut be correct also for work ing hours. lere M3T is a little ta.Keur that meets both needs, ac cording to the accessories worn with it It is a su t of very dark green xcloiir with a bit of beaver fur at the neck. Braid and rows of button add a youthful touch and skirt and coat have the new. dignified length. Luxurious s this coat 93tS) ap pears, it may be the proud possesion of a business girl who earns a fair salary, for the handsome broadtail effect is given by one of those won derful new pile fabrics that are so g.Kt looking Parts couturiers are us-ir- them. A collar of gray squirrel and sashends of gray silk fringe firs Ois graceful coat additional stj le . fT"'- .-J r . . f r "k ; "-H -- ' --.,.:.-; t - i - J - . . - - ,, ' - - v ' j - V-?J ill f- i ' ; "f: f ; J: i i' ; i - t j I J ' t-. ' IV - '- it. I ' ; i I 'is-' ;.),J- I I L-.-wJ. " m. ' , ,.,,.....,-.,, i .- :- 6." V - .5 f r i- ; ' .r- i .,1 v ::--vH : - . . J u : vgg-- - I lZZJ I. v ;' "" " ' ' "' I " 4 ' i . . .. -O- ;vy" : " f I '' ' a ' - : jris-. " . s -. e ' ant distinction. And the full-length coat, quite coverng a light frock, will do duty in the evening. Without plenty of fun outside busi ness hours the young working woman would lead a dull life indeed, and a few pretty clothes for the playtime hours do add xest to life, no mistake. A little frock of the sort pictured I ;0T) is not an expensive Investment and any business girl will take pleasure in putting it on for holiday occasions, for Informal Sunday gath erings with friends: or for the pleas ant week-end visits tlrat sometimes break the monotony of business days. It is a one-piece frock, of blue trico line striped with broken lines of white and the tiny Testes is of scarlet silk with a row of tiny white buttons, e There Is always a close relation ship between styles and fabrics, and it Is difficult to tell which make the pace for the others. Closely ribbed silks are fancied by Parts Just now. ratner man sleekly piain silks like taffeta and satin. Gros de londre. for instance, a sort of faille weave, is particularly in favor, and kitten's ear faille is another finely ribbed weave much used by French couturiers just now. In the wool fabrics, broadcloth is an undisputed leader. This .smooth, satiny stuff has been -revived and comes in most exquisite shades. though it is specially liked irf pure white and in black for very tailored, very smart ojie-piece frocks for spring. Most of these frocks have elaborate, jeweled girdles setting off a very low waistline. Broadcloth is used also for stunning wraps and top coats, and for the latter pale mustard or pale gray are the ultra modish shades. Creponge. a fuxxy-surfaced material of great softness, is for sport frocks in the bright colors th. French adore for this type of cos tume. Knglish-style .sport suits are of. tweed and homespuns, and Ban nockbum crash Is a new stuff bound to be popular for eport wear. Casa an cloth, which la predicted an im mense vogue for spring, is favored by Lanvin. who is making- it up into handsome street suits with paisley appliques and flat braiding. Fashion, having: brought every other sort of costume even the housework dress for mornngs up to a certain standard of Krace and beauty, has now concentrated on the bathrobe. High time, too. for. with all other garments becoming tand artistic there was really no excuse for bulky, ugly flannel bathrobes begirt with cord and tassel at the waistline. It is a far cry from these homely gar ments, however, to this winter's bath robes. Some of white are quite smart enough to do duty as evening wraps. For instance, behold an orchid vel vet robe with moufflon fur; the sleeves draped and weighted with silk tassels, and one front lifted and draped across the other under a jeweled clasp. . Bathrobe? : Oh, yes. indeed, and to prove it, thercare satin bath slippers to match. Another sumptuous bathrobe is of cherry vel vet stenciled by hand in grold. The model comes also in black with gold stenciling. If you are a thrifty soul, select corduroy for your bathrobe, rather than velveteen, fof a splash or two of water will not harm corduroy and.' of course, a bathrobe is sup posed to visit the bathroom where splashes of water are likely to occur. Many women prefer to stick to the mannish style of bathrobe; with lapped front, cord and tassel girdle, coUar and pockets; but even these have become sumptuous and grace ful with widened flaring sleeves, shawl collars and' other touches. A double-faced robe of quilted satin may be had for ten or twelve dollars and nobody could ask anything more luxurious. A wool albatross robe lined with satin meteor has pockets. cuffs and shawl collar of quilted satinJ meteor and may be haa in rose, orchid, wistaria or blue. Snow-white shawl-capes . so soft and downy of texture that they are almost like white marabout, are a veritable craze at Palm .Beach. They are made of knotted worsted which has an angora finish. Some of these capes are ample in size; others are long scarves which twist about the throat. The fabrics' for spring and summer, established by southland styles, prom ise to be crepe de chine, printed crepes, voile and linen the last in - .. U T ; 1 , waa.rA fn, finfirl WAftT I SULt Li H.iii ...... i. w r "and in sheer handkerchief weave for ... . i ..l, cnv. iace-trimmea iormm irutRo. ... u . . tweeds are favored for sport suits and topcoats at Aiken. MANY ATTRACTIVE WAYS FOR SERVING SMELT AVAILABLE One of Least Expensive and Most Palatable of Protein Foods May Be Prepared While Supply Is Plentiful. BY LILLIAX TINGLE. THE' abundance of smelt, available at this season of the year causes many housewives to inquire as to different methods of preparing them. Smelt are among the least ex pensive and most palatable of protein foods and every cook who is anxious to give her family the greatest value for the money expended should take advantage of the opportunity" to pre pare this excellent fish, not only for present dinners, but for future use. There are many attractive ways of serving smelt, but care must be exer cised to avoid naving them over cooked or greasy. Smelt require less cooking than other fish and with ordi nary care may be prepared with very little time or effort. Perhaps the most common method of cooking smelt is to fry them, al though contrary to general belief, this la not the easiest or quickest way to prepare them. An aluminum or heavy iron pan is the best utensil to use for shallow frying. An ordinary fry ing pan is the worst possible itensil to use. because it Is armost impossible to regulate the temperature for cook ing, and shallow frying is liable to result in the fish being partially burned and greasy. Smelt may be dressed by either cut ting off the heads entirely or else simply by cleaning away the eyes and gills and serving them with the head and tail on. They may be attractive ly prepared, leaving both head and tail on and running the tail through the eye sockets before egging and crumbing and cooked in doughnut shape. Owing to the bend in the backbone it is easy, when the fish is cooked, to break off the head and draw out the backbone by the tail. They may then be served, looking rather like doughnuts, with a bit of parsley or lemon where the, head formerly was. In dipping smelt in flour or crumbs you will find that much time is saved by having the materials on papers. Drop the smelt on a pile of crumbs on a sheet of paper and by raising and tipping the edges a quick and thorough coating may be secured without actually touching the fish itself. Following- are a few recipes that have proved satisfactory; in any case i the flavor ol tne nsn may usuany ut improved by previously marinading them in a little lemon juice and oil. Fried smelt Clean' the fish and roll in highly seasoned flour, dip in -beaten egg. Ollutect Wltn a very iiiaic jimrv, and then in fine well seasoned crumbs or cornmeal. A little dry grated cheese added to the flour improves the flavor and tends to make a more nearly fat-proof coating. This is de sirable so that when the smelt are fried they simmer in their own juices and do not lose them in the pan. When the fish are egged and crumbed drop into fat deep enouffh to cover them entirely. .Cook to a golden brown in the hot fat and then drain, first over fhe kettle and then on paper and serve very hot, with lemon r tartare. sauce. Fried smelt -in batter Prepare and fry as above smelt, but instead of egging and crumbing, dip in a fry ing batter. This should be well sea soned and may have a little lemon juice or dry grated cheese mixed with it if desired. The batter sticka to the fish better if they are first dipped in flour. This is a little quicker and takes less egg than the egging and crumbing method. Baked smelt with bacon Clean, egg and crumb fish as for frying. Place in baking dish, head to tail, and lay strips of bacon over them. Bake in hot oven and if necessary baste with a pttle melted butter or bacon fat. This will probably not be neces sary if the bacon is rather fat. Serve with lemon sections. Broiled smelt Clean the fish and split them so that they open out flat. Sprinkle lightly with salt and lemon juice and allow to drain a few minutes. " Arrange on a wire broijer, skin sides down, brush the flesh w'ith melted butter or bacon fat and broil to a delicate brown. Serve with lemon or tartare sauce. Baking smelt in vinegar, milk or tomato juice will usually be found to be the quickest and most economical method of preparing. When an oven is not available a method similar to baking may he used on top of the stove, provided a shallow covered pan is used. An aluminum or granite pan is best for this purpose. An iron pan cannot be used with vinegar. Baked smelt No. 1 Clean the smelt as for frying, but remove the heads, pack in a single layer, head to tail, backs uppermost. Cover with milk or tomato juice and bake or cook gently on top of the stove for 15 or 20 minutes. They may be served with the lifluid in which they were cooked, as a sauce or with butter, lemon juice, pepper and salt.- If the liquid Healing Cream Stops Catarrh Clogged Air Passages Open at Once Nose and Throat Clear. If your nostrils are clogged and your head stuffed because of catarrh or a 'cold, get Ely's Cream Balm at any drug store. Apply a little of this pure. antiseptic germ-destroying cream into your nostrils and let it penetrate through every air passage of your head and membranes. Instant relief. How good It feels. Tour head is clear. Your nostrils are open. You breathe freely No more hawking or scuffling. Head colds and catarrh yield like magic Don't stay stuffed up. choked up and miserable. Belief U sure. Adv. is used it may be thickened or not as preferred, and given final seasoning. Baked smelt fio. 2 Prepare as above and pack in a casserole wih a small bit of onion (if liked) in be tween. Two layers may be arranged, but longer cooking is necessary. If desired a few peppercorns and a clove or bit of lemon rind may be added. Add just enough milk or tomato juice to cover the fish and cover with dry crumbs or leave plain as preferred. Bake until the fish are cooked thor oughly and the surface nicely browned. m Baked smelt in vinegar Prepare as for other baking. Pack head to tail as above, add two or three jeloves, six or eight peppercorns, a bit of bay leaf and yellow lemon rind, and if liked a small slice of onion. Barely cover with mild vinegar or a mixture of vinegar and oil and cook slowly until the liquid boils, when the fish usually will be cooked enough. Serve hot, either plain or with a sauce made of the liquid in which the fish were cooked. Extra seasonings, such as mustard and chopped pickles, as well as a bit of thickening, may be added to the sauce. Baked in this way sme)t are very nice used cold for sal ads or sandwiches like sardines. There are several 'ways in which smelt may be kept for some time. Following are some of the most de sirable: Salt smelt Fifty pounds fresh smelt to 4 or 5 pounds coarse salt. Take the fish just as they come and do not wash or clean them. Pack in a stone jar, first a layer of fish and then a layer of salt, until the jar is full. Put a plate and weight on topi to keep the fish below the brine that forms. When wanted for use remove the desired quantity from the brine, clean and wash them. Let stand in cold water six or eight hours before using. Then bake, fry, cream or use in chowder. Smoked smelt Clean as for cook ing but leae the heads on. Sprinkle lightly with salt and allow to drain 12 hours. String on a wire and smoke for three days. Store in a cool dry place. These are excellent for sand wich paste or for creaming. Smoked smelt with liquid smoke Smelt may be cleaned as for cooking. Rub with salt or leave in brine for 24 hours. Drain and allow to dry slightly. Paint the surface with liquid smoke and dry.- Thick fish may need two coatings. Store in a cool dry palce. When needed for use soak them overnight in cold water. Canned smelt Clean fish, removing tails as well as heads. Sprinkle lightly with salt and let stand two or three hours. Drain and 'rinse and drain if very salty. Pack closely in jars and cover with oil or oil and vinegar.- or water with a tablespoon of vinegar or salted water alone, or tomato pulp. Adjust the lids not quite tight, set on a rack -in a boiler with hot water to come one inch above the tops of the jars. Boil three hours, counting from the time boiling be gins. Remove jars and tighten screws or-clamps While the jars are still hot. Wrap in paper and store in a cool place. The canned fish may be used like sardines or made into loaves, croquettes, with rice or to 'rnato, or used in creamed dishes. Canned smelt, sardine style Salt and drain as above, brush with liquid smoke if a smoked flavor is wanted. Allow to dry a little, then plunge into deep fat, using a frying basket, for one or two minutes, according to size. Drain , and pack into small jars. Kill up with oil and finish as above. Washington I.uek Is Shown. Life. George Washington never told a lie for the following excellent rea sons: He had no income-tax blanks to fill out. He was elected president without making any campaign speeches. When Martha found a strange hair on his shoulder, she always, figured it came from his wig. The Anti-Saloon league never asked him where he stood. The tough breaks he -suffered that winter at Valley Forge required no exaggeration. He never applied for life insurance. A PIMPLY SKIN Apply Sulpbor a Told Wkn Your Skin Break Oat. Any breaking out of the skin on face, neck, arms or body is overcome quickest by applying Mentho-Sulphur. The pimples seem to dry right up and go away, declares a noted skin spe cialist. Nothing has ever been found to take the place of sulphur as a pimple remover. It Is harmless and inex pensive. .Just ask any druggist for a small jar of Mentho-Sulphur and use it like cold cream. Adv. OLD-TIME CQLD CURE DRINK TEA! Get a small package of Hamburg Breast Tea at any pharmacy. Take a tablespoon of this hamburg tea, put a cujwof foiling water upon it. pour through a sieve and drink a teacupful at any time. It is the most effective way to break a cold and cure grip, as it opens the pores, relieving conges tion. Also loosens the bowels, thus breaking a cold at once. It i inexpensive and entirely vege table, therefor harmlt . Adv. Mi Mm V -: J 5 J, I J IQY2 FoTULiadLs mm. 'through 7mw Miss Byrne's Measurements Taken before and after her tt day test of Ironiied 1 east Weight Bust . Calf . Ann . Neck Abt. 10 105 lbs. 9 in. 12 in. 9 in. 12 in. Dtct 6 lbs. 31 in. 13 in. 10 in. 13H in. H7C ou simPly not believe what n t tmf m a wonderful improvement Iron ' ized Yeast can bring in you until you try it. Mail coupon below fpr the amaz ing. Three Day Free Trial Treatment. Then watch the results! , . rning: Due to the marked superiority of Ironized Yeast it is being iridely imitated. Ironized Yeast is en tirely different from ordinary combinations qf yeast and iron or yeast and iron taken separately. There is only one genuine Ironized Yeast. Insist upon it always -for nothing else can be like it. ANOTHER startling evidence of Ironiied Yeast's value as a l weight-builder ! In a test conducted under the supervision of a registered physician, Miss Dorothy Byrne, pretty artist's model and movie beauty, gains 10 pounds in only 22 days I Miss Byrne's measurements, taken before anj after the test, are given below. - " A striking example yet by no means an exceptional one. For it is not at all unusual for thin, nervous, over-worked or run-down folks to gain five pounds and more on the veryjirst package of Ironized Yeast ! Result in Half the Usual Time ! Ordinary yeast vitamins preparations have' in many cases been known to bring Rood-results. But thousands now know that Ironiied Yeast, the iHentficcdly corrtat vitamins tonic treatment, brings results often in just half the usual time! One reason for thjs marked snperiority is that Ironiied Yeast, be sides containing just the right amount of all three essential vitamines, contains a type of yeast which has positively no equal as a reconstruc tive agent a yeast which is cultured expressly for medicinal purposes, nd which is entirely different from the yeast found in ordinary, "yeast tablets." Yeast Best When Ironized 7 But even more important than this is the fact that this yeast has been ironaeaor treated through a scientmc process with a special form of easily assimilated organic iron, similar to the iron found in spinach. When yeast is ironized in this manner it is found that results are not only more permanent, but are secured just twice as quickly. Watch the" Quick Improvement You will certainly be amazed at the quick im provement IRONIZED YEAST shows in you. Note how it immediately increases your appetite and how quickly you begin putting on good firm flesh. See how quickly pimples, blackheads, etc., disapppear and how yoir newly acquired "pep" makes hard work or play a pleasure instead of a task. Try IRONIZED YEAST today! Pleasant to take will net cause gas or in any way upset your stomach. Special directions for children. Money Back Guarantee IRONIZED YEAST is sold at all drug stores on a positive guarantee that the first package will bring satisfactory results or your money instantly re funded. Or mail coupon for the amazing Three Day Free Trial Treatment. In either case you do not risk a single penny to learn of the wonderful benefits Ironized Yeast holds for you. Get it today! Gain- 10 lbs. 9 in. 1 in. H i in. Free -Trial Coupon 56 m - SB I The Ironized Yeast Co. Atlanta, Ga., Dept. 261 ; Please send me the famou THREE DAY FREE TRIAL TREATMENT of Ironized Yeast. Name- 'ahfats t!!GHLY CONCENTRATED VITAMINS TONIC Addreai . . City.. I I Only One Trial Package to a Family State.. Bath Towels Finished Down Sides With Picot Edging. Tinted Linen Is Material Used In Latest Fad. RATHER a novel idea, isn't it bathroom towels finished down the sides with picot edging? Quite the latest idea, though, and the picot edgre tells you that these towels are no ready-made affairs, but hand productions. The towels are of tinted linen an other new idea. And they are intend ed for summer use n the bungalow or country cottage where town for mality is not supposed to reign in furnishings. Of course a dignified and distinguished town bathroom,' fur nished in the best possible way, ac cording to good taste and good stan dards, is equipped with pure white Takes 10 Years From the Age Ovavlnr hair aces a younar face and makes you seem middle aed even when it la premature. Restore it to its original natural color and look 10 years younger. This Is simple, sure and easy, no risk of the streaked, discolored, freakish hair woica i worse than gray. Nothing: to wash or. rub off. Mail cou pon for free trial bottle of Mary T Goldman'a Hair Color Restorer, a clear, colorless liquid, clean as water. Be sure to state exactly the natural color of your hair. Better, enclose a lock In your letter. Test as directed on single lock and abide by results. I hen get t un sized bottle at druggist or direct. ,HfjaaasjsiBjHasiiia.iHaaBasiBii Dm T. rililan, ' OoMman DWt. St. MhM. a Please send me yoor FREE trial bottle of Mary T. Goldman's Hair Color Restorer. The natural color of my hair is . black jet black dark brown I medium brown light brown, light auburn I I or blond - I I pi"" - - i ..-4 SIMPLE WAY TO GET " RID OF BLACKHEADS. Then Is one simple, safe and sure way that never n.. to get rid ol blackheads and that Is to "'To'do'ihS'grt two ounces or calonite powder n-om any drug store sprinkle a little on a hot. wet sponge fub over the blackheads briskly wash the parts and you will be njfeed how the blackh.d; have disappeared. Big blackheads. 1IK t.kheads. no matter where they are. si.ni.lv al.lve and disappear, leaving the parts l.hon !.v mark whatever. Blackheads are simply a mlx'ure of dust and dirt and secret cm t o-i. in b.xly that form In the pores of the skin. 1 in. Mi.g and squeezing only. '"""i?!;; r e large pores and do not get them out alter u.y becon e hard. The Mlonite powder and the water simply dissolve the blackheads bo thej wash rlgl t out, leaving the pores and In their natural condition. Anyone troubled with these misiehtly htemlsfns should certainly try thla simple method JlUv. a . damask towels. And the bigger the towels and the more generous their supply the more impressively lux urious the eff?ct. Dozens of enor mous, smoothly ironed and folded towels of soft, satiny linen damask, flung thickly over racks in the bath robm isn't that the ideal of every woman who considers herself "up" on all the details of correct housekeeping? But for gay summer guest rooms and bath rooms tinted, hand-made linen towels are just now the whim. The towels are finished, as has been said, with picot stitch down each side and at the ends there are bands of filet lace wide band at one end. narrow band at the other, and the monogram embroidered above the wider band. The tint of the linen- matches the color scheme of the guest room, so one must have sets of these towels; some in grayish blue, some in soft, old pink, and some in daffodil and lilac. ... A P tlM 1 New Shoes Old Shoes Tight Shoes all feel the same ' jj if you shake into ' them snme ALLEN'S F00TEASE The Antiseptic, Healing Powder for the feet 1 freshens the feet and gives new vigor At night when your feet are tired, sore anrl swollen from : walking or dancing, f3m spnnKie ALir.n o FOOT-EASE in the frw-Kath and mlnv the bliss of led with- aat aa ache. Over 100,000 lbs. of Powder for the Feet were used ty our Army and Navy during the war. t - MVS n.. ALLEN'S FOOT-EASK GIRLS! v LEMONS WHITEN HANDS Press the Juice of two lemons Into a bottle containing three ounces of Orchard White, which any drugstore will eupply for a few cents, shake well, and you have a quarter-pint of harmless and delightful lemon-bleach lotion to soften and whiten red. rough or chapped hands. Thla home-made lemon lotion Is far superior to glycer in and rose water to smoothen the skin. Famous stage beauties use It to bleach and bring that sofe. clear, roBy-white complexion, because it do can't irritate. Adv. EET LITTLE BABY BOY Makes a Bright Spot in Every Home. A Comfort in Years to Come Park Rapids, Minnesota. "I have taken your medicine Lydia E. Pink- ham s vegetaDie (Jompound when I was a girl for pains and be fore and after my marriage. I now have a sweet lit tle baby boy and will send you his picture if you wish to publish it. My sisters also take yourmedicine and find it a great help, and I recommend it to those who suffer before their babies are born." Mrs. Wm. Johnson, Box 155, Park Rapids, Minn. To marry and arrive at middle age without children is a great disap pointment to many women. Think of the joy and comfort other women have in their children as they grow older. Lydia E. Pinkham'a Vegetable Compound has helped to bring great happiness to many families by re storing women to health. Often the " childless home is due to a run down condition of the wife, which may be helped by Lydia E. Pinkham's Vege table Compound. It brought health and happiness into the home of Mrs. Johnson. Why not to yours? IiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiI y STOP RHEUMATISM WITH RED PEPPER When yeu are suffering with rheu matism so you can hardly get around just try Ked fepper kud ajia you iu have the auickest relief known. Nothing has such concentrated, pen etrating heat as red peppers. Instant rc'ief Just as soon as you apply Red Pepper Kub you feel the tingling heat. In three minutes it warms the sore spot through and through, frees tn blood circulation, breaks up the con gestion and the old rheumatism tor ture Is gone. Rowles Red Pepper Rub. made from red peppers. cost3 little at any drug store Get a jar at once. Use it for lumbago, neuritis.' backache, stiff neck, sore muscles, colds in chest lit sure to get the genuine, with the name Rowles on each package. Auv.