Women, Churches, Books,
Schools and Features
SECTION FIVE
VOL. XLI
PORTLAND, OREGON, SUNDAY MORNING. FEBRUARY 12, 1922
NO. 7
CLOTHES FOR RECREATION ARE PROBLEM OF BUSINESS GIRL
Economy Suggests That Attire for Business Hours and Gaiety Should Be Interchangeable, So Tailored Suit for Work Must Do Also for Holiday and Sunday ,Wear.
of the average
A business Rtrl l. not correct
rinrHoi for u'fir to work, but
m t-fictry raiment for spec'.al oc
aif.n the hours that represent
Majt me and fun. Ttere Is plenty of
gfd advice for the working1 woman
about whjit she should wear at her
. of?. i f . information that she knows
wi: enough herself that her frocks
should be r.eat and durable; that her
bioua should be i nconsplcuous and
seemly, that French heels are not
appropriate with workaday costumes,
that feather hats and white kid
Kiores have a tawdry look do n
town. Any sensible business woman
knows all that perfectly well and
she knows that part cf her salary
must go t supplying neat, trim and
Caod looking business attire, for
looking: shabby and down-hearted
gets her nowhere tn her career.
It Is the playtime clothes that form
the real problem; there Is so little of
the salary left for them, after board
and lunches and carfares and busi
ness wearables have been attended
to. And It 1 In those playtime gar
ments that she wants to look her
best. Every norma girl longs for
fun, and if any girl deserves a
generous share of fun It is the hard
working1 business girl who takes care
of herself.
Economy suggests that attire for
business hours and play hours should
be Interchangeable; that U. the
tailored business suit must do also
for holiday and Sunday wear. The
business hat must be plain enough
for the street car on a rainy morning
at 8:30. yet smart enough for a
restaurant dinner that same evening
when the meather has cleared up and
all the women folk who do not work
for their livings fare forth In their
dainty best. The business girl's
problem is no easy one. I assure you.
If she swallows a hasty rgg-choco-late
and spends the major part of her
lunch hour staring into shop windows,
or surreptitiously adds up figures on
the adge of her shorthand note-book,
trying to see if she can afford some
thing desirable in one of the shop
windows, who carl blame her very
much?
What woman does not revel ln
pretty clothes for special occasions;
In m whole outfit of special and par
ticular charactt-r, fresh and dainty
and different, to put oh whi'n she
"dresses up"? Who wants to don her
familiar d&y-af ler-day tailored suit
with just a fresh veil ad clean
gloves fyfr a really eventful occasion?
Yet this is what the average busi
ness girl has to do. putting the best
face on it. having the best time
she can. The more praise to her,
plucky little person that she Is.
Of course the business girl who
"only works for pin money" who lives
at home and has all her salary to
squander on clothes and matinee
tickets can manage to dress very
well far better sometimes than the
maiden whose father makes the same
amount of money and who does not.
horself, go out to work.
It is business girls of this type
whose salary is spent entirely on
clothes and good times t hat makes
the problem of marriage so serious
for the modern young man. Hereft
of her gtod salary and just taken
care of In a pleasant home of her own.
thtf once-business woman misses the
$t0 or 1-0 a week she used to have'
lo Mow ... on herself and very
few young men starting out in life
can Keep up a nome tor two and sqso
hand over JC or J3 a week as pin
iit-.ney! Well, for that type of busi
in s pir!. if nhe sternly cut down on
l.i r it Low anee for dre?3 and put the
amount it would coat her to board
were ih entirely on her own into
the bark for a little reserve fund
when the husband and home ma
terializes Hut It is the wage-earner, who
works for her living, as well as her
luxuries, who is under cKaeussion at
the moment. And luxuries in clothes
must be had somehow if one is to
enjoy those hard-earned play hours;
matinee and tea on the Saturday
afternoon, a restaurant dinner and
theater with one's best young man
of an evening: little parties at the
homes of good friends: an occasional
week-end visit out of town, and so on.
Clothes must be provided for these
delightful affairs and as economic
ally as possible. Nobody wants to
look drab and neat and perfectly
business-like at these pleasant times.
There is the dance frock for instance;
one wants it to be just as fluffy and
dainty as the next girl's, but stern
practicality demands that it shall
have enduring Qualities, and be suit
able for various grades of parties
evening dances, informal card parties,
restaurant dinners, week-end affairs.
Crepe de chine, georgette and chiffon
are the best materials. Headed nets
are not practical: they soon go to
pieces. Tulle will not la.it long,
either. Chiffon taffeta is a good ma
terial for such a frock, but a vivid
shade soon pales if it must be worn
too frequently. A soft little frock of
chiffon, trimmed only with picot
edging and In a dainty shade of gray
is .-i good choice. When one tires of
thehade, or the frock becomes soiled
he costume may be dyed dark brown
or black and another practical frock
I achieved. If the neckline is round
and girlish and not in an extreme
d. eoiletage, the frock may be worn
at the theater or at dinner on the
week-end visit. And these high
r.eck-i-nes are ia fashion now. even
in full-lress dance frocks.
The business suit may be a com
Trom;se between the severe sport
style and the formal style. Then one
can wear It on dress-up occasions
with a pretty hat and white gloves,
and a special blouse f delectable
tharacter. There are many such suits,
-t aarlt green or brown wool velour,
'. ith -ood lines and trimming of braid
-nd Vuttons. For rainy days one may
nave a polo coat to wear with the
office frock of navy serge. Trotter
froeka of livelier character, made
with girlish short sleeves and little
rnHE PROBLEM
vrsleos of bright Bilk may be picked
up how in the after-holiday sales at
very low prices. Every girl wants "a
prelty frock of tne aQrl as a change
from the rainfulJy neat and drearily
sober office frock. Every pirl wants,
also, a real dress-up frock of crepe
de chine or sort satin, in afternoon
style suitable for wear with a h:it.
These frocks are being offered in the
shops now as low as 17 and $18
In very good models. .
Paris has sanctioned pile fabrics
and some' extremely good looking
coats are made of them. There is a
black pile fabric that closely resem
bles broadtail for afternoon or even
ing wear and gives Its .possessor a
sumptuous and well-dressed feeling
worth saving up for.
For special occasions the business
woman must have a special frock
and she wisely chooses something
simple and not apt to go out of style
Immediately. For a restaurant dinner,
the theater afternoon or evening, a
Sunday afternoon gathering, or an
informal evening affair at a friend's
home this little frock (999) is per
fectly suitable. It is built of live
crepe de chine with narrow - picot
edged ribbons shading from olive to
copper embroidered in an effective
design on skirt and sleeve. The
- ' by .Mad
Quert eonccrninc 1remk)nc will be
answered by Ma.iit Ricbeu Your prob
lems wilt be Carefully considered and
promptly replied to. Address letters to
drm Richet. dressmahtnirr editor. The
lreonirt. Ail correspondence should be
wr.tten upea ons side of the paper only.
Replies wiii be made only throusrh tnese
calutnnii. answers appeannc in The Or
CODiaa both daily and Sunday.
rORN'EMrs. Or.. Jan. S Hear Madam
Richet : Have a drwi to make ltke in
riosed santpls. I wish tn make a one
piet: drss of this, and would you kindly
advise me how to mske somethir.4 nat
and attract tve ? I am in ths early 5.
weigh about ISO pounds, havs blue eye,
fair complexion. luht brown hsV.r . t!nd
with fray: want it made In a way to rive
slender effect. Also kindly advise nis a to
what wouM be fuitabls trimmiPf to use.
TbanktRa- to ia advance. MRS. C. F.
I". S Pieass answer at your earliest
convenience in The Sunday Oregon;an.
M'H
KS. C. F.. Cornelius. Or.: You
will find yourself possessing a
ery delightful dress if you
will choose for your material a type
of waist having the long and slightly
bloused waist and long flowing set
In sleeves. Your waist can be fas-
tened at the back or on the shoulder
and under the arm. A becoming neck
In the round or square, bound with a
narrow binding of your material. The
skirt should be plain in the sense of
line having the rather easy fttlliies
and joined to the waist, or b-ttf. the
under lining of thin lawn. For the
V
8
X
graceful blouse fastens at one hip
with a smart rosette of the ribbon.
Nobody loves her dance frock better
than the girl who earns her daily
iread by working all day. And her
dance frock should be fluffy and
dainty enouph to give her reat joy!
Not aif expensive affair is this en
chanting ljttle party dress (5324)
with trie new petal skirt made of
chiffon ruffles, cut out in Vandyke
points, which are picot edged all
around. The simple satin bodice is
also vandyked at the edge and the
topmost chiffon ruffle is attached to
It. A knotted sash of satin holdB in
the loose frock' at the waistline. , The
round neck-line and little sleeve
make the frock suitable for. semi
formal occasions, too.
Naturally the business girl wants -a
feather hat for special occasions,
and if she selects uncurled ostrich
she may wear her smart hat on a
morning that looks like rain, with
out qualms of anxiety as to her head
gear, should a storm come up before
the evening occasion, at which she
wants to look her best. A cluster of
gray uncurled ostrich Is all the trim
ming that this smart ha; (9188) of
gray velvet .'needs. . Hat and feather
were purchased separately and put
together by a thrifty business girl. ,
T
am Richer--
trimming I would suggest that you
use an all-over design of the con- ,
ventional pattern and do It in the ef- :
fectlve darning stitch, using the black
ribbonzette . for the outlining. The
upper half of the sleeves, the lower
portion of the waist and the lower
portion of the skirt should be treated
in the scheme here given. A narrow
girdle of the material with a -five-ring
wooden linking and from which
fail strands of the ribbonzette
weighted with other wooden rings,
would afford you an interesting and
different trim of belt.'
You are more than welcome to the
help which this column so happily
offers.
Dear Madam: I have a very dark red
serve dresa to mtki and don't know how
lo make it. I don't care for "witTwne"
te. ae It will be my "bet." I wut it
serviceable, yet pretty. Am'lDflnwnic two
sketches. Would you advise No. -337 or
No. 2337? or If not, 'can yon give me some
idea? Also stsreest trimming; for either
of them shovUt yoa find either one suit
able. Wouldn't tou sug-xest some iack
material to tone it down, as I hve plenty
of color I rton't want anythine: to add
to rr.y aiae. rather to detract from H if it
f powi!le. ai" 1 am of rather stou:
v hat Kind t eorset do you auirrest for
my tjs a hh or very kw buatf J
5
A : IV
, J
J
9 . '""-,-".
think a Ww.lut would not" msLke' me look
o sarsa Iriezul &awcmLm a topless
.
i - A
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.jae" " - '" "
corset with. Kood. modei-ol! brassiere. -What
do yon think
'"V."
V
I 'dp
y 'jlM. J if Ctfi
iM 1 : 1 11 1 fc
Would you sugeelt that my dresses be
about 4 or 5 inches from the floor? I
can't wer extremely short drewsfta Thank
Ins yon very much, I am sincerely yours,
- E. E. B. .
'. E. E.. B. The dress figure num
' bered 2387 is by far .the better model
as it produces the longest line where
. .the other cuts: Wear a narrow girdle
of your -material, not more than an
inch and have the long ends finished
with the black rings and silk tassels.
'The Jensrth turn back I would have
of the black Canton crepe, likewise
the cuffs as shown in the sketch. A
i narrow border on the crepe done ln
black'ribbonzette would be handsome
and also length giving. The sleeve
, is splendid. -Keep a plain front.
1 Your friend 1st right, a topless, or
very' low btist corset worn with a
' well-fittinV brassiere, will be the
most 1 efficient way to gain the line
you desire. Be eure that the brassiere
is -.well fitted for that is equally as
important as the corset.
Wear your skirt at most becoming
length: It would seem that five' or
six i inches ! should, . qualify for the
f awor.
HOQUIAM, - Wash.', Jan. . 16. Deax
Max! am Richet:, First, would a white skirt
of Indian-Head cloth, made in two pieces,
with small, amount of gathier under belt
In back wnA two set -on pockets in front
be all rirht for wear this coonin simmer
and what kind ofbecorm.insr waist should
I use witix it?. It was made-last summer
hut is practically, new. - . ...
aecond, J. want a one-piece dreas to wear
for spring and summer without a coat
and to wear .under- heavy coat for next
winter. What color -and what kind of
cloth and style to make it wo-ubd you sog
giest? IKferet shades of bwwii is my
best color tout I am becoming? tired of it
1 ha.ve to consider expense, but woma-d sew:
it myself. , "
Third, wou-ld imclosed sample be auited
to a Kiri of 4 who is large fotr r? Ligih.t
h&ir, -Kinay eye and good ccmplie-xioru
Have four large gores of it. besides waist
of an, old j la-fiy's dress. How sbouild . I
make and trim it?
Fourth, would the hajidmadie or irra
chime knitted.. sMp-on ' sweater, with or
without sleeves, and in what coto-r, be sat
isfactory for my little girl of 4 and 2
yea.rs for a summer wrap? The smaller
one is I-igihter than the older and both,
look well in blue. MRS. ECONOMY.
Mrs. .Economy, Hoquiam, Wash.
The : Indian-Head cloth for skirt is
splendid for summer wear and should
be Torn with the semi-tailored type
of waist made of lawn, organdie,
voile or - batiste. The higher neck
and long sleeves are shown in the
tpring styles. ,
Had you considered a serge m the
mahogany shade , for the one-piece
dress? Then there is the taffeta which
is always lovely for the coming sea
son and also there is the foulard,
which, by the way. will be more
.popular than ever. ; The more ciosely
; fittod - bodice is showing a. g-ain and
inasmuch as you desire a dress which
will be in style the next winter, I
would suggest that you choose a type
rather advanced. Kindly see the
February Pictorial Review, the blouse
and ekirt with numbers 9839 and 9793
will, prove, a splendid . choice for- you.
Do the design in the black rib. ..-
zette whether you select a mahogany
or blue. Add a "chain" of rings at
the long right line of waist.
Tue material is very'eerviceable for
the dress of a child and I would, ad
vise the - straight f ull slip ; -with the
kimono sleeves and the bloomers to
match. A bit of hand worit done in
the Copenhagen blue and black wor
steds would be more attractive than
the collar and-cuff- set--as .used in
the. picture numbered 9824; See same
book as before mentioned. The dress
so made will be very attractive.
. The sleeveless sweaters are cunning
things but often the kiddles require
the warmth over their arms. Make
the slip-over type and use the lighter
weight of worsted. Select two har
monizing shades of blue, " using' the
lighter one for your younger child.
PORTLAND, Jan. 27. Madam Richet:
I have a plain dark brown tricotine skirt
which I would like to make into a dress,
using champagne-colored French . serge
with it. Would you please advise me how
to make it up? I am a girl 17 years old
and -have a medium-siaed-figure. Thank
ing you in advance. CURIOUS.
Curious If "ou wish a semi-sport
frock, then the long waist of your
serge or jersey with the collar-and-cuff
trim of your, skirt material. Join
to the skirt the new waist and wear
a narrow girdle of the tan and let the
ends widen as they descend over tne
skirt," and embroider thereon a con
ventional strip design, using the
brown in worsted or rope silk.
If on the other hand you desire &
more dressy frock, have such a one
as pictured in the spring Designer on
page.36.and numbered 3358. Do the
block design in the tan, red and black
worsteds or silk. Outline the "yoke"
collar and the sleeve -edge In several
rows of the materials as used on
skirt In either case you -will have a
stunning dress. " " "
PORTLAND. Jan. 29. Dear Madam
Richet: I have a dress like sample I
would like to make over. It has a two
piece skirt 41 inches long, 72 inches around
bottom, 56 at top; waist just comes to
waist line, backs in one piece 17 inches
long, two fronts with a spiral georgette
vest long-fitted sleeve. 1 also have soma
extra waist with - same collar, georgette
sleeves, I wear sometimes with it, as the
other sleeves are in a separate waist.
Could I use them in any way for ex
tra waist? I would like one dress of the
muslin to wear on the street or afternoon.
I have a two-piece tunic 30 inches long,
86 inches bottom, top, 20 inches; both
pieces the same size. I am 37 years old,
40 inches bust, 5 feet 6 inches tall, weight
170, brown eyes and hair, plenty of color.
What couid I use for trimming. I don't
want it too showy but it needs something
to trim; would the inclosed look well if we
made it all in the satin or would a smaller
sleeve look better and what kind of trim
ming could' I use. I don't think I would
have enough material to put on this over
skirt and I would rather have panels
Many thanks for all your help.
MRS. J. W.
Mrs. J. W. The inclosed will be
splendid for your satin and would
suggest an underblouse of the georg
ette. The type of sleeve shown is
very popular, but the more closely
fitted will be all right if you fancy
them more. Use tiny silver or georff-
ette buttons down the front of blouse
and on the satin portion of blouse em
broider in the silver thread a design
as shown in the sketch. Trim your
panels in the same manner. Have
them a bit longer than the skirt and
but one on either side.
The tricotine waist will look
well If made after the enclosed The
vest and collar of tucked batiste with
a lighter shade of blue run between
in long line, as the tucks should be,
will make- a pretty trimming.
TUALATIN, Or., Jan. 29. rear Mad
ame Richet: I have just finished your
helps to others In today's Oregonlan which
are the "piece de renlstance" of the paper.
First, I have a jacket of silk like the
inclosed sample, lined throughout with
the lighter sample which is Skinner's. The
coat is 27 Inches long from center of neck
at the back, 21 inches wide from under
arm seam to under arm seam with a panel
& inches wide extending down from waist
line and 31 inches long. There are circular
peplums (I presume they are called) be
tween the front and back panel which are
S3 inches around the bottom ; the stripe
is vertical in front and horizontal in back.
The front is full and gathered onto the
peplum. The sleeves are two-piece coat
sleeves, 21 inches long. Tou helped me
nxake it In 1916 in your classes. It seems
suoh a lot of goods to go to waste, the
skirt la worn out.
My sister has a Goetz taffeta of the
same color but it needs remodeling. The
waist is cut klmona, sleeves short, low
round neck, straight gathered skirt of one
width of material rather short with deep
hem put in by hand. It is worn at the
bottom some and pulled at the seam. It
was always too short and narrow tor her
as she Js quite plump. Over the skirt, from
under the crush belt are four narrow pan
els about 8 inches wide with inch wide
ruffles on each side. Can I not combine
these two "has beens" into an "is 7"
Then I have a checked wool skirt like
inclosed pattern envelope and sample and
wondered what I could do with it. The
yoke is worn but the circular part is good
yet it is long enough for me to lift to
the low waistline and it will fit. Could
I get some new goods and make a blouse
some way to go with it and would you
sew them together and use diamonds or
squares of the check on the blouse, maybe
triangles. Visualize it for me then I can
go ahead.' MRS. A. A. D.
Mrs. A. A. D. Tualatin, Or. It Is
always a pleasant experience to wel
come through this department the
ladies who were in the class work.
The brown silk seems rather old for
your sister, but if made in a girlish
style we perhaps can overcome the
difficulty. There is an attractive de
sign shown in the spring quarterly
Designer and numbered 3539. Make
the skirt of her old Goetz and use
your silk for the waist. The skirt
will be. In your case, minus the over
skirt, but effect will be. equally good
The etteeves short and the collar and
cuffs made - of material used in the
skirt. Do the handwork in cherry
red. .Have a narrow girdle of either
silk and finish the ends" with the
rings and china beads ,of cherry red.
This will add a youthful touch. . , ,
For your checked skirt I would
have a long waist of black jersey
cloth, the collar and cuffs made of
the check and plpld in red. A three
quarter sleeve and rather close fit
ting. Trim the lower portion of the
waist in a "strip" of buttons. Join
skirt and waist. See Pictorial for
February; page 77, pattern 9862.
EUGENM, Or., Jan. 16. Dear Madam
Richet: I have a Httl-e better than S
yards of goads a yard wide like sample;
send also a half yard of btut like sample.
How coalI'd, I make it up to Look nice and
be beootmiinig? 1 I am 5 feet 4 inches,
weight 165, age 4S year-s, dark brown hair
amd blue eyes "Would you use thie blue
or embroidered silk? If you can, please
answer in next Sunday's Oregonlan (Jan
uary 22) we just gt the Surwlay Ore-Ionian.
MRS. M. F.
MRS. M. F., Eugene, Or. Owing to
the Insufficient space given this de
partment it was impossible to meet
your request, and many others in the
last Sunday's issue. 1 greatly regret
this state of affairs and will ask the
readers to bear with me in patience,
as I am lending my. most sincere
effort to and for the prompt service
we desire you to have.
The samples which you enclose are
well combined and the blue will be
most effective used as an applique
in oblong shape in a proportion of
three-quarter width and three-inch
length. Finish the edges in the button-hole
etitch, using the black em
broidery silk for same of ligh'ter
weight. A combination of shades as
those shown on the panel strip of the
gown I would have you copy as well
will be found in the Spring Quarterly
and numbered 3575. An underslip of
messaline to match will be the satis
factory backing for the rabric you
have and will give- a nice finish.
PORTLAND, Jan. 22. Dear Madam
Richet: "Will you kindly plan a one-pleoe
dress from the following coat-suit dress:
A black box-plaited jacket and skirt com
bined and attached to underwaist.
After taking out the plaits I find I
have a skirt with many odd pieces. The
jacket has two fronts, 22 inches long and
22 inches wide, divided into three sections
of equal width, under the arm where the
sleeve has been set, 19 inches deep. The
back is 19 Inches wide by 21 Inches deep
and has seam In middle. There is a yoke
9 inches from shoulder s&am at neck. In
front, and the same at center of back.
The sleeve is coat style, one seam, deep
cuff, and long. There is a collar about
the sise of yoke and a belt 40 inches long
and three inches wide, double, with silver
buckle two Inches wide. The front and
back box plaits, as they are, make a
panel 8 inches wide, back and front. The
problem would be the joining or continua
tion of the panels. 1 am partial to a equars
neck.
I merely mentioned the possibilities In
this garment, &s I will depend on you
to plan a dress with some class, if It is
possible to do so with so ugly a material.
I am 42 years old, 5 feet 1 inch tall. Mi
bust measure, 30 waist and 38 hips. I
weigh 123 pounds, have auburn hair, gray
ish blue eyes and fair complexion with
out much color. PERPLEXED.
Perplexed Your suit has so many
pieces and the yoke on jacket rather
precludes the one long line you and
I would like to have. However, pur
chase a pattern like or similar to the
one shown in the February Pictorial
and numbered 9862, and work along
that line as a base of direction. The
box pleats in the panels do not dis
turb me in the least, as they are
being worn, and give a splendid rea
son for handwork, which in your case
would be best in iridescent beads in
the cherry shades, steel beads and
the black silk rope. Trim the .square
neck in a line design, as too much
will detract from your height.
Shorten the sleeve and trim as neck
at their edge, -and do the seams in
a igraduated length, an excellent ts
ample being shown on the dregs r.'i n
Concluded on Page 4, Column 2.j