The Sunday Oregonian., October 30, 1921, SECTION FIVE, Page 4, Image 72

THE SUNDAY OREGOXIAN", PORTLAND, OCTOBER 30, 1921
AMERICAN WOMEN ADOPT BRITISH SPORT
DRESS; TOPCOATS OF TWEED ARE POPULAR
Parisiennes" Regalia Extremely Feminine and Picturesque but Does Not Please Sturdy American Girl's Fancy,
as Does English Attire Suitability to Rough-and-Ready Games of Outdoors Is Appealing Factor.
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THE term tport rlotlits covers aj
wide range of wearables. Sport
clothes often have no relation.
to sport at all and are simply out
door tops that contrast radically with
formal street nttiro. Nobody has to
wield a tennis racket expertly, or be
eble to put up a pood fuk of nolf.
or handle a sun, or do figure eishtsi
on skates. In order to herself out
plcturcsquesly In itrt attire; any
body may wear these fascinating
clothes, provided she wears them at
the right time and in the right place.
More and more are sport wearables
romlngr Into use for general wear.
They used to be donned in town only
on rainy days when formal raiment
is apt to look tawdry and in bad
taste. Now sport togs are worn dur
ing the morning hours, even in town.
There Is a difference, however, be
tween sport tofts for city streets and
sport togs for out-ln-thc-country. The
latter r much, more informal 1b
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style and very much brighter in color
as is proper against a country
background. There are town-and-country
sport clothes, too; garments
that fit the wide outdoors and coun
try background, yet are correct and
inconspicuous for city streets, rail
road trains and the like. Besides
these smartly tailored general sport
wearables there are special sport
wearables for every particular kind
of sport, and the woman who goes in
for skating, tramping, golf, indoor
tennis, pool swimming, horseback
riding and trapshootlng this winter is
going to spend quite a lot of money
on the various clothes therefor.
American women prefer the Eng
lish way of sport dressing to the
French. The Parisienne's sport re
galia is extremely feminine and very
picturesque, but it does not please the
sturdy American girl's fancy as does
English sport attire. Ivhich is quite
as picturesque because of its fancy
boyishness, yet far better suited to
rough-and-ready games out of doors.
French, sport suits this year are of
bright colored silk Jersey -with.- little
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tassels, many buttons and waistcoats
in orange, cerise and other vivid
shades, and there are warm sport
wraps with big capes and dolman
sleeves graceful and charming, but
scarcely the thing. according to
English and American notion, for
bleak days out in the country.
The English town and country suit
of mixed tweed, trim and well
tailored. with easy-fitting. belted
coat, pockets galore and skirt meeting
the tops of laced, low-heeled sporl
shoes is the correct and proper thing
for town and country wear here, and
such suits are accompanied by man
nish negligee shirts of fine linen,
soft felt hats or blocked silk beaver
hats (exceedingly good style just
now) and gloves of heavy kid.
There are English topcoats, too
the very smartest thing one can put
on with a sport costume made of
tweed, with broad collar and lapels,
low-placed belt and the skirt of the
coat flaring a bit to three-quarter
length. Though surprisingly light In
weight, these coats are warm as
toast because of ttie good English
wool In them, and they have a jaunty,
I Informal suggestion with pleated
, wool sport skirts and soft felt bats,
j There is a special smartness, just
j now. about the sport hat of blocked
silk beaver; a stiff, glossy black hat
that comes in many shapes; straight
regulation sailor shape with big
, crown, rather narrow brim and neat
I hat ribbon of moire; rounded-off
'crown with roll-brim or tricorne brim.
bell crown with curling brim and 80
on. There are felt sailors, too. and
soft felt hats with brims that may be
turned one way or the other. A sim
ple hatband of rich ribbon is liked
best for trimming, but sometimes
there Is a gay feather a pheasant
quill slanted rakishly, or a long coq
quill drooping at one side toward the
back. Then there are the tarns which
come with neckscarves to match. Tarn
and scarf are of knitted worsted or of
angora, and the colors are charming.
No sport costume is complete with
out a neckscarf of some sort, of
heavy ' worsted or angora, to be
twisted around the throat as an outer
wrap, or of rich hued tricotine. to be
worn within the collar and lapels of
a' tweed jacket or topcoat. These
bright scarves give a delightful touch
of color when suit and hat are of
some neutral shade.
Ten years ago what a hullabalco
would have been raised over the
feminine golf suit that consists of
belted Jacket and knickers! Nobody
seems specially excited now. If
woman wears breeches, she may, and
wlrhout occasioning any shock to
Mrs. Grundy's sensibilities. Mrs.
Grundy Is a lot broader and more
tolerant anyway than she used to be.
The mere matter of feminine trousers
on golf links bothers her not at all.
The new golf suit is most comfortable
and really most attractive, with a
boyish belted Jacket coming well
down over the hips, and full knick
ers that bag over the knees and meet
the tops of wool stockings. But if
you select such a costume for country
club wear, be very sure that all the
accessories are In keeping. The boy
ish suit must be accompanied by
boyish shoes with very low heels, a
boyish shirt and a simple sailor or
soft felt hat. Anything feminine and
frivolous in the way of hat or foot
wear would entirely spoil the effect
of the costume.
Autumn and winter sport skirts are
long enough to meet the top of a
JAM GIVING today a hand in which
a deviation from conventional
play, owing to developments In
other words, the play of & false
card works greatly to the advantage
of the player so piaying. Thie was
Iha distribution:
A K 6 5 4 2
A 6
A a
Q 5 2
93
J 30 8 4 ?
K J 10 6 2
4 K
The bidding was bad, very bad. I
am giving it, however, as it was
actually bid. because of the lesuon
inculcated by the play of 1 single
card, which play, by the way, tvrr d
an impending loss of 390 into st
actual gain of 170.
Z. who was the dealer, bid a dia
mond, thus undertaking with aver
age &seistance from h.s partner to
win seven tricks, or one trick over
the book. According to the system
of valuations advocated by White
head, which system, by the way, is
meeting with general approval and
promises to become the universally
recognized system, Z'e hand meas
ures up to three-fourths of a trick
only, or if we include the ability to
reff the second round of spades, l?i
tricks, and to make an 'original bid
justifiable it should measure up to
two quick tricks, with the probability
that it will insure four tricks.
A paesed. and Y bid a heart, per
haps the only sound bid that was
made. B and Z passed, and A, who
feared the adversaries would go game
(and the rubber game) at a major
suit make, announced a siade. a very
poor holding indeed on which to ven
ture a bid, the more so as the adversaries-had
shown strength in two
suits and his pa-rtner by his pass had
denied any legitimate bid. His ex
cuse was that he preferred to go
down three or more tricks than to
allow the adversaries to win an easy
rubber. Y bid "two hearts," and B. who had
absolutely no support for his part
ner's bid. nevertheless went "two
spades" in the hope, as he later ex
plained, he would push the adversa
ry's to an impossible contract.
Y went "three hearW and B,
strange to relate, "three spades."
Thereupon Y suddenly shifted and
bid "three no trumps." With his hold
ing and the help he had a right to
expect from his partner because of
the fact of his having made an orig
inal bid h s better policy would have
been a double, as he should have
seen the utter impossibility of the
uilve-ranies making their contract.
As has been repeatedly pointed out,
three things are necessary to a sound
double position, the number of tricks
one's own hand guarantees, and the
state of the svore. Ae it was A who
f.rst announced s-pade-s, Y's position
is right and also he holds enough
tricks in his own hand as practically
to guarantee his book (four trick).
The only thing against the double
is the score, as. if the adversaries
make their contract (three tricks),
lliey W'il! go game because of the
double, w hereas otherwise they would
not. In spite of this, however, the
double would have been far better
than the no-trump bid.
Upon Y's announement of "three
n trumpe," A, encouraged by this
partner's two raise which caused
him to read him with strength which
he in no wise possessed, doubled. A's
double differs from what Y's, double
would have been, in that it is a free
dcuble; that i to say. regardless of
the double, Y, if making good, will go
game. The double, in other words,
will not help him to go game. The
hand was played as follows:
B led a spade. dummy playing
kmg- and A winning with tie ace. A
tben led the spade 10, which declarer
won with queen (unwise to give up
the command until the next round) I
and went to work on diamonds. Th's
suit, he felt, promised better than
hearts, as a successful finesse would
doubtless enable him to make every
diamond, while in hearts one of the
three missing high cards queen, jack
or 10 was bound to be won by the
adversary.
leclarer, therefore, led the ace of
diamonds, and right here was A's
golden opportunity, an opportunity
wh'ch he was not slow to avail him
self of. He at once saw that if every
diamond made, declarer, with protec
tion in spades (and he must have
had protection to bid no trumps after
the adversaries had shown spades)
and the good hearts which his heart
bid would indicate him to hold, would
have no difficulty in making his con
tract and at the same time going
game. With the deliberate intent
therefore to mislead him and pre
vent Ms taking a finesse in diamonds,
A to this trick threw, not his smallest
diamond, but the 9 of diamonds. Y
at once fell into the trap. Ace. king,
jack and 10 of diamonds being ac
icr.unted for, he naturally read A
Willi Uie Queen of diamonds and the
IMiiWlliBISil!
1
10 7 Y QJ8
KQ92 A B 75
4973 ' Z t QS4
A 10 8 7 4.J 9 6 4 3
laced boot; that Is, they are about
10 or 12 Inches from the ground. The
extremely short skirt is going out of
fashion even for sport wear. Pleated
wool skirts in soft-toned plaids are
still fancied, and there are good look
ing circular skirts of fine checked
worsted or of plain colored flannel.
With these skirts are worn sport
shirts of heavy, fine linen, very smart
with hand-tucking and perhaps a bit
of drawnwork. but no lace trimming.
Mannish collars turning down from
the. high neckline over a black silk
cravat are preferred by fashion, but
open collars are good style if one
does not like the smarter high collar.
There are heavier sport coats ready
for snappy, later autumn weeks,
short topcoats of tweed and velours
with collar and cuffs of fur. 'Possum
Is the favorite sports fur; raccoon
and squirrel are fancied also.
So gradually have we become ac
customed to feminine breeches that
the trouser golf suit makes its entry
without causing any particular com
motion. It is comfortable, and It Is
attractive, and most women look well
In it. The loose knickers are accom
panied by a rather long, loose coat
with a belt, and the suit has grace
ful, easy lines. This one (9246) Is
made of soft worsted in green and
tan, the coat buttoned over a man
nish golf shirt of white linen.
This attractive outdoor costume
(5643) is for the country club, not for
city streets. The black silk duvetyn
jacket accompanies a pleated skirt of
wool in gray-green and blue, dashed
with yellow, and the neckscarf is yel
low. Sport skirts are a little longer,
as you perceive, and the new length
U graceful and quite short enough
for active outdoor exercises. The
skirt hem will meet the top of a
laced sport boot or one may wear
woolen stockings and tan calf sport
oxfords.
English tweed suits are especially
smart for autumn sport wear, and
such a suit may be worn in town or
on a train going out to the country
club. The English woman always
owns such a suit for traveling,
tramping and general town and coun
try wear. This good-looking su't
(5486) is of mixed gray and green
tweed, and the hat is of green and
white angora. Excellent tramping
shoes in heavy English style, and a
tailored shirt of white linen match
the English suit In style.
queen only, so on the second round
of diamonds, instead of finessing the
10, as but for As play to the first
round he undoubtedly would have
dene, he played the king. A's play to
this round of a small diamond showed
V that he had been duped, but it
was too late to repair the error, and
as a consequence Z-Y won but seven
tricks, falling down on their contract
by two tricks. Thus, as has been
stated, what otherwise would have
been a loss to A-B of 390 was turned
into a gain to the side of 170.
There are some, the severely cen
sorious, who may contend that A's
play constituted a false card and
that no player at the table, save
only the declarer, has a right to false
card. This, strictly speaking, is true,
but In situations like the one given,
where the player had nothing to lose
but everything to gain in case his
play had the desired effect, that of
misleading the declarer as to the lo
ation of the queen, he surely would
be foolish player who would refuse
st- to play for the a mple reason that
his play would constitute the play of
a false card. The usual objection to
false carding when employed by any
player save the declarer, that it de
ceives one's partner no less than the
declarer, and that it is of greater im
portance correctly to Inform one's
partner than to deceive the adversary,
disappears entirely in a case like
tie one giiven. A surelv had the
right to stave off a big loss to h's
side if in his power to do so. Ilis
Play is the more to be commended in
tliis case because of the fact that
tho dummy was without re-entry and
his s-ult therefore the less likely to
make If declarer could be diverted
from making the usual finesse from
the particular combination held.
In the Whist Reference Book a
false card is defined as follows:
"A card played contrary to conven
tional rule for the purpose of deceiv
ing the adversary, but which Is liable
to deceive partner as well. This play
is condemned by nearly all authori
ties, while those who do countenance
i. do so only upon exceptional
grounds and under exceptional cir
cumstances; as when, for instance,
there is no danger of deceiving part
ner, or when playing a coup, or when
playing with a hopelesly bad part
ner, one who wpuld be unable to get
correct inferences from any play.
Players of the first rank who fre-ir-ently
play regardless of rule some
times make effective use of false
cards, but even In the hands of ex
perts they may prove boomerangs."
False carding under ordinary con
ditions has been under a ban and
severely condemned by the best play
ers ever since the days when whist
held sway. In auction one player, the
declarer. In being able to see and play
h partner's hand in connection with
his own; enjoys an advantage which
was not possessed by any player at
the whist table. At whist all players
were equal in th-is regard, and by
inlerence alone were able to calculate
at to their partner's holding. Because
of the advantage in this -respect en
joyed by the declarer at auction there,
are some who contend that false
carding on the part of the adversaries
in auction should not be so severely
condemned as in whist. While the
arguments they advance are some
what specious the habit of false card
ing is nevertheless a dangerous one.
and. save in cases like the one cited,
should not be indulged in.
While on the subject of false card
ing. It may be interesting to give
s.-me comments regarding the prac
tice from noted experts:
"The play of false cards without
very good reason in characteristic
only of hopelessly bad players."
"It requires more than ordinary
skill to judge when a false card will
do less harm to the partner than to
the adveraries."
"I must caution you never to play
a false card until you have advanced
beyond the condition of a moderate
Player."
"Avoid playing 'false cards, and
be very careful in playing even the
smallest cards, lest you may deceive
your partner.
"To impose upon your adversaries
is perfectly fair and Justifiable, but
we can only occasionally so impose
without detriment to our partner and
therefore to ourselves,"
"Do not play false cards. You will
deceive your partner in nine cases
out of ten. and generally to his and
your injury. There may perhaps be
tfmes when it can do no harm, but
they are few and must be chosen, if
at; all, with great skill and care."
"Nothing Is more tempting to some
players than the play of a false
card: that Is, when two or more
cards of equal consecutive value are
held and the highest is played sec
ond, third or fourth in hand. It loses
more tricks than it makes." (This
has reference to the play of cards
it sequence and shows why it is of
the greatest Importance that one play
the lowest card of a sequence. The
play of the highest denies the hold
ing of the card Immediately lower,
while the play of the lowest indicates
the possibility of the one immediately
higher being held, assuming this
card not to be definitely located in
some other hand.)
'The flay nt a, false card must not!
be confounded with one that is merely
iriegular in lead or follow. A dis
card that may be made instead of one
that could have been made is not
necesscLrily false play. Coups are al
ways irregular, but they are not false,
but brilliant variations from routine
pliiV."
"There are many instances where
you may play a false card which can
not injure your partner, and if it
mometarily misleads him It will do
no harm, while it will mislead the
declarer and may give you a distinct
advantage. Again, a false card played
may not be a false card as regards
your partner and cannot mislead
him. but it may be a false card as
concerning ths declarer."
"Never play false cards. The habit,
to which there are many temptations,
ot trying to deceive the declarer as to
the state of your hand deceives your
partner as well and destroys his con
fidence in you. A golden maxim for
a Player to adopt is that it is of
more importance to inform your part
ner than to deceive your adversary.
The best player is he who plays the
game In the simplest and most in
telligible way."
"In the scientific game of auction
you give your partner (always at
the beginning and almost always
throughout the play of the hand) all
the Information in your power within
the rules of the game. Cases may
arise toward the end of a hand where
It becomes clear that your partner
can do rlothing and nothing can be
lost by misleading him: then, and
then only, false cards (deceiving him.
but deceiving the declarer also) may
be usefully played."
"There are three kinds of false
cards (1) those that deceive every
body; (2) those that deceive the de
clarer only; (3) those that deceive
your partner only. A sparing use of
the Mrst two. especially toward the
end of the hand, is often advantage-
ous. but in playing cards that deceive
all players you must be prepared to
take entire charge of the game your
self, or you will probably have your
conduct referred to afterward. The
third is sacred to bumblepuppy."
"False cards are dangerous weapons
and should be used with great care.
They are commonly employed by ex
pert players and frequently give an
opportunity for the exercise of rare
whist judgment. We believe that a
player has a perfect right to give
or withhold -information. He cer
tainly is under no obligation to make
the game easy for his adversaries.
While we agree with a certain well
known authority in his general re
marks that the indiscriminate and
continual use of false cards and de
ceptive leads is neither desirable nor
trick winning, w-e hardly think that
he is Justified in plaoing well-directed
false cards in the same class with
low trickery and private ronventions."
"On the whole, it seldom happens
that a balance of gain results from
the adoption of false play. Occa
sionally, however, a false card may
be played with a ppeclal object, and
when this is the case and the decep
tion to your partner can do no harm
you are entirely Justifiable in so
playing."
Much interest is being evinced In
the auction bridge tournament which
Is to be held in various cities. Port
land included, on the afternoon and
evening of Monday. November 28, for
the benefit of the American commit
tee for devastated France. letailed
accounts of the affair will soon ap
pear from official headquarters.
In the meantime I would explain
briefly that the tournament Is to be
held under the auspices of the New
York whist club and is to be divided
Into two divisions, the Atlantic and
the Pacific divisions. Special hands
to be sent from New York and pre
pared by expert players, including
Milton C. Work, the originator of the
tournament; A. It, Metcalf, Charles
Stewart Street, Henry H. Ward and
others, are to he used for the occa- ;
sion. Thus the same hands will be
played by all the players composing
the tournament, whether played in
New York, Philadelphia. Boston, San
Francisco, Seattle or Portland.
These hands are in no sense "trick"
or "freak'1 hands, but .simple, ordinary
hands, such as one may receive at
any deal. There is this Important
difference, however. whereas the
hands dealt to one in the usual way
may not admit of a bid and may
therefore be thrown up. or. if played,
may prove to be "piano hands." hands
which no matter how played admit
of no variation in score, each of these
hands is susceptible of a bid and
embodies some important principle or
play necessary to the correct score.
AH players, whether good, bad or
indifferent, are eligible to the tour
nament. While the poor player will
not have the chance of as higih a
score as the better payer, he never
theless will have the inpiration of a
delightful game, and, more than all
else, the consciousness that he is aid
ing in the most appealing of causes
child welfare, for it Is the children of
devastated France that are to benefit
hy the proceed.. No one. surely, can
turn a deaf ear to a call of this
nature. '
The entrance fee is J2.50. Tlayers
make up their own tables and play
with the same partner and the same
opponents throughout.
A tournament committee will be ap
pointed this week, the personnel of
which will be given next Sunday.
Meanwhile. Mrs. J. N Teal. Main
2S49. or myself, Main 8M2. will gladly
answer all Inquiries and receive
names of those desiring to enter.
V. S. Leads in Outo Owners.
TORONTO, Ont. Canada, with one
oar to avery 21 uersonsi is the second
largest automoMle user In tnu woru.
according to statistics issued by the
National Automobile Chamber of Com
merce of New York. The United States
leads, followed by Canada, New- eZa
land, Australia. Cuba and the United
Kingdom, in order of Importance.
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To get rid of your wnnklea, here s a
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Looking into her mirror the icet the Cell (lo
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"I have upfH Adlerka ( Int ot nn I antl
epMct and find it wonderful for the itom
arh. It onr-e Mopped me from iimiergninn
an opera t ln for appenrtirit is 1 w hs out
wept at th" lime. I rlo not want to he
without Adlerika." (tiigned ) Mrs. Anita
Diaz.
t InteMlnal Antineptlr.
There 1 now offered to the public a prep
aration havine the IXHTBLE action of an
intt-HtinHl Hnttnept1c and a CfiMPLKTB
system cleanser. This preparation, known
aa Adlerika. arts aa follow!:
It tends to eliminate or nVstrny harmful
germs and colon hart Hi in the inteM inal
chohI. thus guarding against appendicitis
and other diseases having their mart here.
It is the most com p let e nystfin c lansor
ever offered to the public, acting on HOTff
upper and lower bowel an el removing foul
matter wh th poisoned t he ay at em for
ironths and which nothing fUe ran dis
lodge. It t rings out a M a a sea. thus im
mediately relieving pressure on the heart.
It in a.ston ich In a; the great amount of
posonous matlr Adlerika draws from the
Hltmcntary canal matter you never
thought wh In your yKt m. Try It right
ifter a natural movement and notice how
much more foul matter it bring out which
"Pape's Cold Compound" Breaks any Cold in a Few Hours
Instant Belief. Don't etay Btuffed
up! Quit blowing and snuffling?! A
dose of 'Tape's Cold Compound"
taken every two hours until three
doses are taken usually breaks any
cold right up.
The first dose opens clogged-up
nostrils and air passages ol bead;
ft
Hail
0. S. A.
vn polsonlnaj vnu. In slight disorders,
i sin h as occasional constipation, sour atom
. Hch. gas on the stomach and sick head
I a'he. fine tpnonful. Adlerika A I. WAYS
n? inga rener. a longer treatment, how
ever, is necessary In caa of ohnMnate
const 1 pat ion and long si nd i ng nt munch
trouhl.. preferably under direction of your
t'hyslclan.
Keportn From I'll VNlrin.
"I congratulate you on the good effect I
had from Adlt-rka sinre 1 prescribed It."
(Sinned Dr. I. I.nnirlois.
"I have found nothing in my Ml years'
practice to excel! Adlerika." t-Signed) Dr.
James Weaver.
"I ue Adlerika In all bowel ram-s. Some
require only on dose." (Signed) fr. K. M.
I'reityman. '
"After taklnj Adlerika fe b-ttrr than
for 'JO years Hiivn't ianguaue to ex
press the AWKL'L I M PI II ITI KS eliminated
from my aitem. (Signed) .1. K. Puckett.
Adlerika i a conusant surprise to people
who have used only ordinary bowel and
stomach medicines, on wcount oV its rapid,
pleasant and COM IM.KTK action. It ia sold
bv leading druglt very where.
Sold in Portland hy Skidmore Drur .,
l.M Third st., and other leading drugg tata.
stops none running; relieves head
ache, dullness, feverishness, sneezins;.
"Pape's Cold -Compound" Is the
quickest, surest relief known a.d
coats only a few cents at drug stores.
It acts without assistance. Taxtes
nice. Contains no quinine. Insist
upon Pape's. Adv.
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