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About The Sunday Oregonian. (Portland, Ore.) 1881-current | View Entire Issue (March 27, 1921)
THE SUNDAY OREGONIAN, PORTLAND, MARCH 27, 1921 'V'TilKfllP;'! and W TOii H er ':.-. - 'i fkH ! - a ctOi A if j - '' low fy - W r yl if V lTf L 'l I I V&4 I I ;PTiiivwiiitf"tfiiiniirTi iVviftniriiiftiiinrfMwriimmiiftrrrfir oiinnnwfnwiiiirtMinifiwtiMfiiffuniinniiii ThU hat of tangerine mllan stran with ihadow lace and an American beauty rose in natural color looks attractive because It nets cor recti 7. BLi ETHEL THURSTON. NE often hears a woman eay, "I wonder how Mrs. So-and-So gets such beautiful hats. Her hus band doesn't make as much as my husband does and I know she doesn't pay anywhere as much as I do for mine. Tet, somehow, hers always look nicer." And she continues to purchase hats that do not look as they might on her because she is not In on the secret that the hat itself makes little difference. It's all in the way one wears It. More Important, even, than his pe culiar swagger to the "ladies' man" and the an?!e he carries his cane and the way hejtilts his cigarette from hi mouth to produce an "appearance," U the angle at which a woman should wear her hat. It should not be tilted forward so that one looks like a pu gilist seeking an engagement; nor up wards so that one appears to be an Individual after whom attendants at an insane asylum are searching; nor lacking the piquancy lent to the pic ture by the saucy, almost Impercepti ble angle, which means the difference between "ordinary" and "fetching." The hats on this page, for which the handsome Martha Mansfield, well known motion picture actress, posed, strikingly illustrate the absolute ne cessity of wearing one's hat correctly If one is to let one's neighbors Know that one's husband wrote out a really big check for it. The stunning Milan Napoleon ot chassaine blue with a festoon of red roses across the brim worn in proper form by Miss Mansfield is as charm ing a headgear as a beautiful woman could wear. But, when incorrectly set on the head, because the hair in the rear is made up too Jow, even the beauty of the model is detracted from because of the stupid look the im proper setting of the hat imparts. Even more strikingly illustrative f the right and wrong way is the black lisere etraw directoire poke photographed on this page. This, really, Is. a cute little hat, which would make most women more beau tiful. Tilted at the right angle Its effect could not be improved. But when it is at an incorrect angle the result, as the picture shows, Is to give a, really foolish look to the wearer. The improper angle at which the tangerine Milan straw with ehadow lace is set, is still another reason why the owner of a pretty hat should tudy the art of properly adjusting it to meet problems of coiffure. In other words, the pictures show that when purchasing a hat the pret ty woman should bear in mind what it will look like when it is worn with this or that style of hair dressing. There should be a different hat foi each coiffure. Of that there can be no doubt. And the prominence of the forehead, the breadth of the head and the size of the ears, even, should be taken into account. No matter how much may be paid for a hat it quickly becomes unsightly and really revolt ing to one's taste when it is not set on the head in the manner that ex actly conforms to the face and the ahape of the head. Opinion of a Fashion Arbiter. The photographs were shown Mil ton Wolf, arbiter of American fash ions. This is what he eaidabout them: "It Is not so much the' style of the hat as the way it is put on that mat ters. All hats are not of course be coming to all women, but far more are unbecoming through a lack of knowledge as to how they should be worn than through the particular de sign of the hat. If the lines of a hat are good it is, in fact, possible to tilt tha hat at Just the proper angl which, will bring-out' all the good j, y yiA if nNf The ume hat of tangerine milan (raw looks cheap and unattractive because the coiffure is too high and prevents the hat from resting prop erly on the head. points and ameliorate the poor ones. "Leghorn in all shapes and sizes, horsehair braid, directoire poke hats. Milan straw and floral trimmings will be popular. There will be few ex treme styles worn by the well-dressed woman. "The directoire poke with the beau tiful black fins of a king paradise. the price paid for which was close on $500, is a hat which must be worn with discretion. It is predicted that these hats are going to be very popu lar, so it behooves the girl who would be correct that she take careful note. The directoire poke differs somewhat from the usual poke. It is fashioned more on the lines of a modified mush room. The brim droops far over the face on the sides and is very short in back with a slightly longer line to the front. Do not, therefore, as you value your reputation for being up- to-date, wear it on the back of the head as you did the old poke; if you do so your J500 hat will look like 50 cents. If you have chosen a stunning gray costume for - Easter Sunday parade and wish to experience the joyous feeling of being the envy of all your enemies, the gray Italian milan straw hat, shaped something like those Ger man trophy helmets which the boys brought home, with a group of gray glycerine ostrich plumes at either side, will accomplish your purpose. CLOCKS OF ALL AGES, SHAPES AND SIZES FIGURE IN NEW ENGLANDERS COLLECTION Henry J.- Mills of East Saugus, Mass., Has More Than 100 Timepieces Ticking at All Times, Result of Accumulation of Years Many Are of Ancient Make and Are Highly Prized by Their Owner. BY MART HARROD WETHERED. 0" in NE HUNDRED, clocks and all striking at once!. Can you maglne -the noise , they make? You could if you visited Henry J. Mills, the East Saugus postmaster, in Massachusetts. There are clocks of every shape and size, ranging from the little metal alarms up to great grandfather clocks that stand in the corners. Many of his possessions are very valuable, yet not one of them is for sale, for he has become so attached to them that I think he would shelter a hundred more if possible.- - - . Where did all these clocks come from, and what does It mean? Surely they were not collected in a day, nor a week. They represent years of ac cumulation and show what can be done if one is a lover of timepieces and is willing to let his desire be known! , ' When a lad .Mr. Mills,-who -was of a H A And here Is the same Be. -careful,, however, that you wear the brim in a straight line across the forehead, otherwise, if you get the rakish effect in the picture, you may be mobbed! mechanical turn of mind, grew inter ested in tinkering old clocks. To be sure, to make them perfect required more than one specimen, for many had to be pulled to pieces in order to obtain the missing parts. He grew so interested in his clockwork, and other people . grew interested as well, that every old, dilapidated clock, in his neighborhood was passed on to him to make good. Not only this, but legacies came to htai giving him possession of many very valuable clocks which the owners were anxious should be care fully treasured. ' Mills Becomes Expert. Gradually, so gradually that it was not apparent, this collection grew, un til today there are 100 clocks in Mr. Mills' possession. Becoming, . as he did,' so thoroughly acquainted with people not only in his native town, but summer guests, there were con- jrtant inquiries sent to his office to A Photographic Demonstration of How the Slightest Deviation from the Correct Head Position May Spoil the Charm of Dainty Milli nery Creations -JS Napoleon hat, completely robbed of its "The large tangerine Milan straw hat covered with tangerine shadow lace and trimmed with a large Amer ican Beauty rose of neutral color is such a simple affair that it does not ask him the date and make of various clocks, and so accurate was his in formation that he was able at a glance to determine the same. His treasures are not only in the postoffice, but in every room of the house, both cellar and attic affording storage room, while a large number stand in the hallway waiting to be repaired by the owner and put Into running order." Some of the most in teresting have a prominent place In the office and they attract naturally the attention of everyone who enters, more particularly connoisseurs ' or clock faddists. "It is very amusing," said Mr. Mills, as he pointed out the different time pieces, "to hear people who come into the postoffice ask in the most assured manner what the price is of some particular clock. It is not to be won dered at that they feel they are for sale, standing as they do in such con spicuous positions and in such quan l(yVri 10)" oee'a t - . v . 1 jvWflfts attraetlvenesa by being; worn too look as if it would be possible to go far wrong in getting it on right. But just look at the result when it Is not well pressed down on the head almost entirely covering the hair. The large tities. It is hard sometimes to con vince the would-be customer that no money can purchase them, for I pre sume I might well be called 'a clock faddist' I never could resist one, no matter how dilapidated its condi tion, and that is one reason why I have so many In my possession. With the breaking up of a household or during spring and fall cleaning old clocks are often resurrected and eventually many of them fall into my hands. I really doubt If -any of the old families who are still living in East Saugus have not sent me one or more. v " ' ; ' ' Tinker Enjoys His Work. "When I get spare time I take an old clock and pull it to pieces, scraping the woodwork and often making a new case. After I get it finished I put it up in the house or store to watch its working that . I may see how. successful I have been in my undertaking. It is a most fas cinating work and I enjoy it. "I have many clocks sent to me from overseas. That one," pointing to an eight-sided i one set upon brackets, with weights hanging upon the chain and dial projecting 'beyond it, "was sent"' me from Ireland. Notice the handsome ornamentation on the oak frame. Really it seems almost like burntwood designs of today, and note Asms itti''ilfWiT'ia ...... r- rr far back on the head. hat which throws softening shadows on the face is especially flattering to all women, and the art of putting it on effectively should be carefully studied. also the pearl pegs let into the wood work." It was certainly a most mar velous creation in clock manufacture and hung by itself '.n the store win dow, the most prominent in his col lection. At the rear of the shop he has had a partition of glass put up to form a small room and on the wall are eight different specimens of old and new clocks. One of them is known as the wall clock. It is without a case, swinging a long pendulum. By its side is a lantern, or bedpost, clock, which received its name on account of its shape and as it was sometimes fastened to the bedpost. . "When I first had i" the postmaster said, "there was an alarm attachment con nected with it, but I took it off, it be ing thoroughly out of order." 1 -Ancient Piece Prized. Probably the most Interesting of them all is an old grandfather clock with an inlaid case. This is in the private office. It Is -of English make, constructed during the last half of the eighteenth century, when there was a great demand for moving fig ures placed in the arched top. This on shows an English ship of ancient construction flying the national col ors. It is a special pride of the owner, ' who opened tho door and ' 'y. . Photo copyright by Joseph. This Napoleon hat of chassaine blue milan, with n festoon of red roses across the brim, Is worn correctly. "For the young girl and debutante the chassaine blue Milan Napoleon with the festoon of red roses across the brim . is especially appropriate; it Is simple and beautiful. Brought low over the eye the rich shade of the roses and the delicate blue of the straw blend beautifully with a peach and cream complexion, rushed far back on her head, the graceful lines and color effects are lost, and the cunning of the artist who designed this creation disappears. "An important item in the get-up of the girl who would be queen on Easter morn, is the manner in which she dres.ses her neck. Furs are not worn by the summer girl just because she wishes to be freakish, but because they give a fascinatingly soft effect to the face. Contrast the pictures where Miss Mansfield wears a soft fur, or velvet and pearls, with those in which she wears a hard organdie collar and you will see the point. There are, of course, times when the organdie collar is quite proper, and nothing could be daintier or prettier when worn with a . floppy organdie hat, this is not to be thought of in the early days of spring." Many things could bo told you of the old hats which, as mentioned above, will crop out later in the spring and make a hard fight for place In the .fashion field. The corn cob hat and the pine cone hat, which ara as eccentric as their names, are two of these. They are light as down, these new chapeaux, and have the shiny appearance of cellophane. But out side of a few who pride themselves on their outer costuming, they will doubtless have no more popularity than that granted to former freakish fashions which have ventured forth for tho American woman's approval. showed on the inner side the follow ing verses: Here I stand both day and nlgiit. Do thou example take ot me And serve thy God As I serve thee. I am old and worn, as my face appears. For 1 have walked on time for & hundred years. Many have fallen since my race begun; Many will fall ere my race Is run. I have buried ths world, with Ils hopes r and fears. My long, long march of a hundred yean. Many, of the clocks were made by Willard, thr being three brothers, Benjamin, Simon and Arron, .all of whom were famous, and Mr. Mills told me there was a great difference between the ban'jo clock and others. Upstairs over the postoffice in his home every shelf was filled with clock decorations, each one varying in size and make.' Many of thera were by Terry, who had such a demnnd for his clocks that at the commencement of the nineteenth century he had made 3000 in all, some of the works being made of wood and the weight used for running power being the same as In the tall clocks. There were so many interesting anecdotes to be heard concerning the different ones that they seemed virtuaHy in numerable and little wonder that,' with the Interest he feels In them, Mr. Mills is unwilling to part Trttl any of them. " " - - If.-..' 4
