THE SUNDAY OREGONIAN, PORTLAND, DECEMBER 26, 1920 MODERN BUSINESS WOMAN DRESSES WITH DISTINCTION AND. DIGNITY FOR ALL AFFAIRS Smart Gown Is Proper if Feminine Proprietor Runs Little Shop or Tea Room; Banquets, However, De mand Full Evening Regalia Traveling Clothes Are an Item. II S III Vis? I jr-rfr-'.W. WV- --"f II J IT! i s i 7 t rtV """" ' A, Si .'X4r: T. ' IT IS a far cry Indeed from the timid little business girl who back In the '90s sat in th dark st corner of the office, clad in plain shirtwaist and skirt, to the mod ern "head of a department," weU dressed, beautifully coiffed,' sitting capably and with perfect self-posses sion behind an important flat top desk. But those plainly clad, humble spirited business women of th )90 were the pioneers they paved the way for the modern competent, effl cient holders of high positions. The several thousand dollar salary of the modem head of a department would have appeared fabulous impossibl to those early blazers of the trail. But then, their $10 or ?15 a week would look equally impossible viewed the other way round to to day's stenographer who works fewer hours and has vastly more comfort able surroundings. As woman's Importance in the busi ness world hV.s grown, her business costume has developed to meet changed conditions. The "working girl" might bo expected to adhere to a monotonous uniform of shirt waist and skirt, preferably black as least conspicuous: not so the successful and prosperous woman of affairs who has her own department, perhaps her own building; who meets notables in the business world as man to man; who has interviews and conferences and perhaps "puts over big deals." Traveling Clothes an Item. There is the woman who travels for the firm, for instance. Perhaps she Is a saleswoman carrying some im portant line: perhaps she is a buyer for a large department store, making her trip to Paris every season; per haps she is a valued representative of her firm, sent on some important mission. The timid little business woman of the '60s, In her simple black skirt and waist would cut a poor figure in such capacity. The woman who draws a high salary and Is the representative of a big con cern must look the part must be a credit to the house she stands for. She travels In pullmans, eats in dining cars and puts up at the best hotel in town in "room and bath" style. And she is smart, from top to toe, carefully gotten up to the least item and accessory even to the traveling bag she carries. Usually her costume consists of a very smart tailored frock and a stunning coat or wrap, with small, distinguished hat and a veil. And gloves and boots that are beyond eriticism. The frock and coat combination Is much better for the woman traveler who wishes to look always her best, than the tailored suit and blouse combination; for the coat must often be removed when traveling; in heated pullmans, at dinner in a restaurant, in offices where conferences are held, and in hotel corridors or dining rooms. When it rains this efficient and Important business traveler summons a cao and keeps her dainty and dis tinctive costume as fresh as It started out. She has her clothes pressed by the hotel tailor and calls up the hotel beauty parlor expert for shampoos, manicures and massages. She keeps herself in the pink of condition, just as a man traveler would do. Smart Shop Demands Smart Clothes. A good many women are making big business successes, running ex clusive little shops tearooms, hat chops, lingerie and blouse shops, gift card and novelty shops. These var ious environments must be dressed np, too. The proprietor of a chic -lttle hat shop will be as beautifully dressed but in a different way as the suc cessful home-decorator, who moves against a background of rare and J r - , - i 41 ' : ill gmMm&M 2$ i m4mxik;m - st I - r'.js-fejp "?35 II h'-WA.i ,y 4 I III V W7ttV&m. k ?F s J I s r i A';y y - r ' - vmviwuo i 21 -II -VSfcx, ? , . ,-, , r III vja. t'wt .ysPiwftWa .i ir, jtV m"J .t.fcf "TSESL. f i P1 rf I J? KrftJ4r lit 'S-;-.? J: tin. V H 4 -. -s E XA N office wore an Irreproachable serge j frock, cut on smart lines and em broidered with black silk. It was a frock of perfect simplicity, but Its expensiveness showed In every line. The modern business woman hold ing a responsible position takes her place at business banquets with her ienow men, and expects to provide tor such occasions a full evening re galia of dinner e-own. hanrtRnma wran. rsuppers and feather fan. xne successful business woman does not consider it necessary to wear a severe sailor she leaves that to the sport girl, and selects for herself the smartest and most becoming hat sne can afford: a hat that will -elve her distinction and "presence" and therefore lend her poise In an im portant Interview. A hat that will. above all, look prosperous. But it may not be a picture hat, a restau rant hat or any hat that suggests a festivity. Here (4556). is an ideal hat, smart, rich, becoming, but suited to everyday wear. It is of taupe velvet, with black grapes and silver embroidery. The practical coat for a business woman is a coat that will give good service in workaday hours, vet be smart and graceful enough for occa sional wear over a dinner or theater gown. Just such a coat is this model (3012) of tan velour with stitchinz in tan and brown. The deep yoke motif is new and smart; and lines of the coat are distinguished and graceful, and the buttoned-over sleeve sug gests an exclusive style. In this coat, with a small hat, fresh gloves and smart buttoned boots she is corfect for any business interview. Suppose the business woman Is go ing traveling for her firm, which ex pects her to put up a good appearance and be a credit to the house she repre sents! She will select, for. wear on the train, in the . dining car and at me notei, a smart yet simple frock of this sort (4540) of dark blue vel- dyne with a little black embroidery by way of trimming. The small, smart hat and squirrel collar are in keeping and the dainty. boots have buttoned tops pf gray cloth. JAUNTY AND BEAUTIFUL ARE SASH BOWS THAT PARIS IS DAFT ABOUT THIS YEAR Feature of Little Gray Frock Is Coquettish Sash, Tied According to Winter's Fashion, Exactly Over One Hip Moire Ribbon Is Used for Crisp, Graceful Fold. By Annie Blanche Shelbq now proceed to Among them is the follow- 1 T Q653 A Bag Z 8 7 A O 9 7 6 B '-?j'yz?4's-yyy s&snf sZc?za? -PSvz. 3 beautiful things collected .from all quarters of the globe. Imagine the home-decorator of reputation coming to meet you amid her silken Persian rugs and wonderful tapestries, her slippers and black silk stockings com pleted this costume. . Now consider the costume of a fa mous home decorator on the same morning. Her business is in and out carved Italian furniture and amber; with conferences in her luxurious of shaded lamps. In the starched tub waist and plain black serge skirt of the approved business uniform of the 90s: No, the home decorator dresses up to her background In soft-toned chiffons and velvets; and the little milliner of reputation wears the very latest thing from Paris extremely trim and coquettish, to fit her Frenchy little shop. One of ' these Important because exclusively patronized milliners just off Fifth avenue wore, the other day, the most adorable frock of black satin. Milliners usually do wear black satin, you know, it is compelling as no color would be against the dainty and gay background of pale mauve or ivory and gold, or amber and aprt cot of the shop. This attractive black satin frock was quite short and had elbow, sleeves and a rounded neck. The gathered skirt was scattered over with embroidered white 'wool daisies and at either side were turned back panels edged with frills of narrow white lace. The white frills stopped at the sash line and above, a row of closely placed white ivory buttons ran up the side seam of the bodice to the armpit. Elbow sleeves and round neck were finished with cuffs and frill- collar of pleated handkerchief linen and narrow lace. Ribbon-tied French fice and shopping and estimating trips outside. She wore a very smart tai- lorea suit 01 dark trlcotine with a small stunning hat and beautiful furs. In her office,- jacket and furs were laia aside and with the well-cut trlco tine skirt went a most graceful tunic blouse of embroidered chiffon in har monising shade. Her boots were, cor rect street boots, not too heavy t look well in her luxuriously furnished of fice buttoned boots with light soles and high heels. , a Environment Calls for Clothes. Two other offices were visited on the same morning while business clothes for the successful business woman were under consideration one was the office of a woman's maga zine and the other a large mercan tile office where a woman has a po sition of great responsibility. The woman at the editorial desk did wear a shirtwaist a tub blouse, too, and it accompanied a very, neat navy serge evidently part of a well-tailored suit. The blouse was of fine white linen, hand-tucked and hemstitched and had long sleeves, and a touch of real filet on collar and cuffs. Low heeled tan oxfords of excellent cut and style ac companied the costume. . The advertising woman in the other I NUMBER of interesting hands I Z have been sent me of late. I " which T will I discuss. Ing: 8 A K Q J 10 5 . 94 J8 4 3 I 942 192 KQJ52 I a K102 AKJ10 7 7 6 4 3 A 10 6 3 This Is a particularly instructive hand, as showing the benefits result ing from the correct application of inferences obtained from bids. It should certainly impress upon the student the necessity of having h!s bid mean what it says; otherwise, or not making a bid. It was love score, the rubber game. i. tne dealer, bid a heart. A wnt 'two diamonds." not so much with the desire at the score that the hand be played at diamonds, but because it represented a genuine bid. and in the hope that his partner, relying- upon a certain Holding- in his ham. might be Induced to make a better old, spades or no trumps. Y. with no help for his partner's bid. hearts, but with an excellent holdiner In clubs, went "three clubs." B, though having two cards of the suit his partner bid, diamonds, and thus bein assured of the side holding the ma jority, would nevertheless substitute spades for the reason that at spades game could be secured at one less trick than at diamonds. Game, neces sarily, was the goal each side was desirous of attaining. Z considered his partner had plainly shown he had no assistance at hearts, yet bad an excellent club holding-. If he had not had, he would have passed As he himself held but five hearts, albeit good ones, hearts clearly were out of the question. However, as he had four clubs and was thus assured of the side holding Considerably more than the majority, and as, moreover, he could ruff spades from the start, he reasoned that with his hearts as a side suit and the diamond ace as re-entry, an excellent score should be assured at clubs. Therefore, he went "four clubs." A raleed to "four spades,- X and B passed and Z called five clubs." Do not get the idea that Z-s raise was visionary or illogical; on the contrary, if his partner's bid was based on sound principles, "as he had reason to believe it was, it was en tirely correct. If necessary he coulq have carried the bid to six. "Five clubs" held the bid, and Y-jJ made a grand slam, or a total score of 202 42 for tricks, 60 for honors and 100 for slam. The play went thus ' cil 4fivk rLVir- f 5t: Fy(v J ' " 1 31- v I k !4 lit. 1 T 1: , K Jh I ! i-Z 'V 4 sjK v i. V v 1 t i f 7 -I y yy' .S .S , SJ62 KrssZ JszySSsyf rHIS (5164) is one of those ador able little gray frocks that Paris Is daft about just now. Gray duvetyn is the mater'al, and in serts of the cluny lace give quite a new touch to the bodice which opens in front over a small vestee of white satin. The feature of. the frock is the coquettish sash, tied, according to this winter's fashion, exactly over one hip. Wide moire ribbon in a gray shade matching the frock is used for the crisp, graceful sash.- Here, too, is the scalloped hem, much fancied this winter. Many of the winter frocks repro duce the effect of separate skirt and blouse, but when It Is a frock there is always some touch of the skirt material on the bodice. The model pictured (5162) has a skirt of black duvetyn and a bodice of black chif fon embroidered with gold thread and gold braid edges the front of the bodice which drapes softly in surplice style over a vestee of flesh pink satin. The skirt is skillfully draped, with soft folds at waistline and hip, but a straight silhouette at the foot. three spades to the king and an out- I knew that his shift meant no protec side trick, the king of diamonds, j cion in diamonds, though a good club could easilv have gone to "two 'suit, went "tnree no irumps- on nis anato." Not. however, beyond that Had "four spades" carried tne uia Trick. A I Y j B j Z 1 J 2a 3 A 3 2 2 A 8 4 S 9 K 5 6 4 -4V 8V 3 10 5 2 4 5 ' A 6 9 44 6 K' 7 24 5 Q 7 8... 10a 8a 6a 7a 9 54 JS 74 Jv 10. J4 94 84 A4 Denotes winner of trick. Tricks 11, 18 and 13 were won by I with his three remaining clubs. It may be argued that if B had led a diamond, his partner's suit, rather than his own suit, one trick might have been saved. As a matter of fact, he hesitated in regard to his lead, the more so as his own suit contained a tenace, generally an undesirable suit to lead With the number he held of the suit, however (six), be realized it was exceedingly unlikely he could win two tricks in the suit, if Indeed he could win one. He felt, and rightly, his best chance of mak ing the ace was in at once leading It. Had he, however, led the diamond and B had put up dummy's ace, as undoubtedly he should have done, the result would have been the same. Dummy's trumps (clubs) would have served as re-entries, enabling him to make his last heart. As a matter of fact, the true science of the hand lay In the bid ding, as the hand practicaly played Itself. The only play which would have affected the result would have been Y's refusal to finesse in the heart suit at trick 4, when hearts were first led. Y at that time had won every trick and was assured of all but one remaining. The only chance of getting that one lay in the finesse. It was, therefore, well worth taking. At sDades A-B could not hare lived up to their contract. Two by cards is all they wouia nave Deen aDje to make. Therefore, at "four spades they would have. fallen down to the extent of two tricks, Incurring a pen alty of 100 less four honors. 86, or 64. As a matter of fact, while' B's bid of "three spades" was somewhat visionary, A certainly had nothing on which to base a raise to four. Had the bid been "one spade," A, with J arid Y had sat to the left of B, th strong spade holder, he undoubtedly should have doubled. There are rv,aw in fact, who would have done so regardless or positions, as ." player was able to count two, imc three or four, tricks in his own hand (three being his book), and he had good reason to read his partner with one or more tricks In hearts and a trick in some otner sun. Another of the hands sent me was the following: V 7 6 4 3 2 6 5 4 J8 a KQ10 3 v KJ10 AKQ.10 7 4 2 4 9- a A6 Y A 8 5 X B a 9 8 3 Z 4 A J 6 2 ' a J87 V Q 9 J 4 K 10 7 5 4 3 a 9 5 4 2 Again It was the rubber game! love score, and game was the goal , de sired. Z passed and A, taking a chance on diamonds, bid no trumps. Y and B passed. B's pass showed that he did not hold five to an honor n either of the major suits, but whether it meant absolute lack of help tor the no trump and a hand too weak to warrant the overcall, or perhaps no-trump assistance, A was unable to determine. Z. who saw the danger of leaving the adversary in at his no-trump bid, bid "two diamonds" on his Ions suit to the king. This bid left A unable to go on with no trumps, so he shifted to "three clubs." Y again passed, and B, who correctly In ferred as" to his partner's holding ana own protection in diamonds and a trick in hearts. Z, of course, passed and A played the hand at "three no trumps" ana made a little slam. The play went as follows: Trick, j A j Y j B 1 94 J4 Q K4 2 6a 84 A 104 3 A 6a sa ja 4 K 6 4 8 v2a 5 Qa 2v 9a 4a 6 loa 3 24 6a 7 7a 4 64 84 8 4a (4 7a 9a 9 2a sa 8a 44 1 10 7v A 9 11 , Kt 10a 8 Q 12 JV Qa 5v 64 13 AS Kt JS 74 Denotes winner of trick. Played at clubs, A-B would still have made a little slam, as they would have lost simply one spade trick. The score would have been 390, as against 410, not considerable of a difference, to be sure, though the gain of even one point which Is the result of Judgment and supe rlor play is by no means to be de spised, less than ever in a game or the nature of auction, which Is sus cepttble of widely varying scores. Had A's club suit not been phenome nally strong (and B simply assumed it to be of sufficient strength to guarantee the shift, it being plainly evident that he had no protection in diamonds and must either pass or bid his best suit). B's raise of A's orig inal bid could easily have made con siderably more of a difference in the score. Both of these hands show' the Im portance of making absolutely cor rect bids and enabling one's partner definitely to read as to one's hola- lng. In both cases had the bid been wrong and the partner resorted to the particular policy he did on the assumption it meant a certain hold ing which it did not, disaster could easily have been the result. One of the prettiest ami most scientific features In the entire game has to do with the correct application of Inferences from the bids, and If the bid therefore be unsound the entire game becomes unbalanced, and It good results are obtained It Is owing rather to happy-go-lucky chance than, as In the cases given, to thor ough understanding and co-operation on the part of the two composing the partnership. And here arises the question as to which is the more Important and the more conducive to a large score, the absolutely dependable bidder or the thoroughly correct player. It can but be admitted that both are or the utmost importance, but unfor tunately the plnyer who poviesKos the two qualifications In the same ' degree Is exceedingly rare. to the successful play of auitlun, and teamwork at the btelnnln of r a band applies equally to all playrs snd pertains exclusively to the bid ding. When the bidding hie Cf- and It la known who la lh. y4Ma teamwork as such applies simply to the two adversaries. There are many ' players who ss adversaries do eirrl- . ' lent teamwork, and there are also . many piayars woo excel in ine piay of the two hands, but the teamwork of many of these same players with . I A HI V1 1 n a. la .,maI.... f V a formation by their bid; who bid . lacking the strength to do so; who :' -. aouoie at a stage wnicn gives Hie . adversaries a chance for a safe shift: . who SDnarantlv da not know m hen their bid has gone sufficiently hint. and a pass Is In order; who do not ! r anew now to practice teui-tirac ment ' ' and leave their partner In at his bid. j : etc. wnea playing with players or 1 -this caliber one la very apt to aayi .. "(.Iva ma tha dananriahl hlHat . rather than the flaw lean nlaver. Ulva ; ' me the bidder wboaa bid meana a. actly what It says, a ho does not 1 bold out raise promises wnicn ortea . - not otherwise have done; who don- (- ; bles only at tha right time and under the right conditions, etc." ' There are some, however, who eon. Is more to be desired than the ability , '. correctly to bid; that, especially In :, duplicate games, sound play Is more , vital than absolutely sound bidding. - . A wen-Known eastern authority speaks as follows on the subject: ' A am uvrciucmy 01 tne Ol'inioa tnai , more Is lost by just mlaslng the ' game or Just falling to save It than '. . ty oaa Dtuaing. it one win examine the play of bands In which tricks are lost and gamee are Just missed or quite saved, it will usually be fnnnit that tha PMitlt rftia In tha . violation ui ioihb lunuamamai pnn- :i clple of play, which Is fully ex- , game. In going over a published . HlnD-ram thara la tmiiU tltna , n rf.lapt an error which In actual play often . passes unnoticed. These are the . gradually widen the breach between .' the top scores and the 'also ran ' and the points loot and piled up . - against the more careless player." - As Is seen, there Is a diversity ot . opinion on the subject, but It err- a talnly behooves players to endeavor to excel In both respects. ' Fruitgrowers to Have JUnqnet. ALBANY, Or., Dee. 25 (Special.) ' Local stockholders and employes of the Tuyallup and Sumner Fruitgrow ers' association, which operates the big cannery at Albany, will partlul-! ' pate In a banquet In the community! house here New Year's eve. It Is' proposed to make this banquet it snnusl event In Albanv. J" (mem Quickly Soothes Itching Scalps Treatment: Gently rub Cuticura Ointment, with the end of the fii'jrr on spots o! dandruff anl itching. Follow next morning with a hot shampoo of Cuticura Soap. Repeat in two weeks. Nothing bet ter than these fragrant super -creamv emollients for all skin and scalp troubles. hltlllxl rraa ky Mafl AA,r-m "Ot- tak artUrUl. Itart 40, Malta, it " Sl1 a.,.. wbf-a HM,p2b. otnUiMrnt a ajit Maj Tajcuai -aa .tWCiitieura Saa ahavae -rttaaat Bias. laar Ccminsr Out?; -LUOTECEtr; ,.yc- -tdrmiiiiona.lbaunljrrem- I 4l4l) " J'h.tl. Lacked bra I . a. . fX I wb- .a. mm a-a a. . The Nation'! soar-ante d halrV ana eeaip raroen . uaaa a - ana reoommeniMa by millions. 'i haonl PJ 4ftdtf th.ti..asL.. 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