THE SUNDAY OREGONIAN, PORTLAND, DECEMBER 26, 1920
MODERN BUSINESS WOMAN DRESSES WITH
DISTINCTION AND. DIGNITY FOR ALL AFFAIRS
Smart Gown Is Proper if Feminine Proprietor Runs Little Shop or Tea Room; Banquets, However, De
mand Full Evening Regalia Traveling Clothes Are an Item.
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IT IS a far cry Indeed from the
timid little business girl who
back In the '90s sat in th dark
st corner of the office, clad in plain
shirtwaist and skirt, to the mod
ern "head of a department," weU
dressed, beautifully coiffed,' sitting
capably and with perfect self-posses
sion behind an important flat top
desk.
But those plainly clad, humble
spirited business women of th )90
were the pioneers they paved the
way for the modern competent, effl
cient holders of high positions. The
several thousand dollar salary of the
modem head of a department would
have appeared fabulous impossibl
to those early blazers of the trail.
But then, their $10 or ?15 a week
would look equally impossible
viewed the other way round to to
day's stenographer who works fewer
hours and has vastly more comfort
able surroundings.
As woman's Importance in the busi
ness world hV.s grown, her business
costume has developed to meet
changed conditions. The "working
girl" might bo expected to adhere to
a monotonous uniform of shirt waist
and skirt, preferably black as least
conspicuous: not so the successful
and prosperous woman of affairs who
has her own department, perhaps her
own building; who meets notables in
the business world as man to man;
who has interviews and conferences
and perhaps "puts over big deals."
Traveling Clothes an Item.
There is the woman who travels for
the firm, for instance. Perhaps she
Is a saleswoman carrying some im
portant line: perhaps she is a buyer
for a large department store, making
her trip to Paris every season; per
haps she is a valued representative
of her firm, sent on some important
mission. The timid little business
woman of the '60s, In her simple
black skirt and waist would cut a
poor figure in such capacity. The
woman who draws a high salary and
Is the representative of a big con
cern must look the part must be a
credit to the house she stands for.
She travels In pullmans, eats in
dining cars and puts up at the best
hotel in town in "room and bath"
style. And she is smart, from top
to toe, carefully gotten up to the
least item and accessory even to the
traveling bag she carries. Usually
her costume consists of a very smart
tailored frock and a stunning coat
or wrap, with small, distinguished
hat and a veil. And gloves and boots
that are beyond eriticism. The frock
and coat combination Is much better
for the woman traveler who wishes
to look always her best, than the
tailored suit and blouse combination;
for the coat must often be removed
when traveling; in heated pullmans,
at dinner in a restaurant, in offices
where conferences are held, and in
hotel corridors or dining rooms.
When it rains this efficient and
Important business traveler summons
a cao and keeps her dainty and dis
tinctive costume as fresh as It started
out. She has her clothes pressed by
the hotel tailor and calls up the hotel
beauty parlor expert for shampoos,
manicures and massages. She keeps
herself in the pink of condition, just
as a man traveler would do.
Smart Shop Demands Smart Clothes.
A good many women are making
big business successes, running ex
clusive little shops tearooms, hat
chops, lingerie and blouse shops, gift
card and novelty shops. These var
ious environments must be dressed
np, too. The proprietor of a chic -lttle
hat shop will be as beautifully dressed
but in a different way as the suc
cessful home-decorator, who moves
against a background of rare and
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office wore an Irreproachable serge j
frock, cut on smart lines and em
broidered with black silk. It was a
frock of perfect simplicity, but Its
expensiveness showed In every line.
The modern business woman hold
ing a responsible position takes her
place at business banquets with her
ienow men, and expects to provide
tor such occasions a full evening re
galia of dinner e-own. hanrtRnma wran.
rsuppers and feather fan.
xne successful business woman
does not consider it necessary to wear
a severe sailor she leaves that to
the sport girl, and selects for herself
the smartest and most becoming hat
sne can afford: a hat that will -elve
her distinction and "presence" and
therefore lend her poise In an im
portant Interview. A hat that will.
above all, look prosperous. But it
may not be a picture hat, a restau
rant hat or any hat that suggests a
festivity. Here (4556). is an ideal
hat, smart, rich, becoming, but suited
to everyday wear. It is of taupe
velvet, with black grapes and silver
embroidery.
The practical coat for a business
woman is a coat that will give good
service in workaday hours, vet be
smart and graceful enough for occa
sional wear over a dinner or theater
gown. Just such a coat is this model
(3012) of tan velour with stitchinz in
tan and brown. The deep yoke motif
is new and smart; and lines of the
coat are distinguished and graceful,
and the buttoned-over sleeve sug
gests an exclusive style. In this coat,
with a small hat, fresh gloves and
smart buttoned boots she is corfect
for any business interview.
Suppose the business woman Is go
ing traveling for her firm, which ex
pects her to put up a good appearance
and be a credit to the house she repre
sents! She will select, for. wear on
the train, in the . dining car and at
me notei, a smart yet simple frock
of this sort (4540) of dark blue vel-
dyne with a little black embroidery
by way of trimming. The small,
smart hat and squirrel collar are in
keeping and the dainty. boots have
buttoned tops pf gray cloth.
JAUNTY AND BEAUTIFUL ARE SASH BOWS
THAT PARIS IS DAFT ABOUT THIS YEAR
Feature of Little Gray Frock Is Coquettish Sash, Tied According to Winter's Fashion, Exactly Over One
Hip Moire Ribbon Is Used for Crisp, Graceful Fold.
By Annie Blanche Shelbq
now proceed to
Among them is the follow-
1
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beautiful things collected .from all
quarters of the globe. Imagine the
home-decorator of reputation coming
to meet you amid her silken Persian
rugs and wonderful tapestries, her
slippers and black silk stockings com
pleted this costume.
. Now consider the costume of a fa
mous home decorator on the same
morning. Her business is in and out
carved Italian furniture and amber; with conferences in her luxurious of
shaded lamps. In the starched tub
waist and plain black serge skirt of
the approved business uniform of the
90s: No, the home decorator dresses
up to her background In soft-toned
chiffons and velvets; and the little
milliner of reputation wears the very
latest thing from Paris extremely
trim and coquettish, to fit her Frenchy
little shop.
One of ' these Important because
exclusively patronized milliners just
off Fifth avenue wore, the other day,
the most adorable frock of black
satin. Milliners usually do wear black
satin, you know, it is compelling as
no color would be against the dainty
and gay background of pale mauve
or ivory and gold, or amber and aprt
cot of the shop. This attractive black
satin frock was quite short and had
elbow, sleeves and a rounded neck.
The gathered skirt was scattered over
with embroidered white 'wool daisies
and at either side were turned back
panels edged with frills of narrow
white lace. The white frills stopped
at the sash line and above, a row of
closely placed white ivory buttons ran
up the side seam of the bodice to the
armpit. Elbow sleeves and round neck
were finished with cuffs and frill-
collar of pleated handkerchief linen
and narrow lace. Ribbon-tied French
fice and shopping and estimating trips
outside. She wore a very smart tai-
lorea suit 01 dark trlcotine with a
small stunning hat and beautiful furs.
In her office,- jacket and furs were
laia aside and with the well-cut trlco
tine skirt went a most graceful tunic
blouse of embroidered chiffon in har
monising shade. Her boots were, cor
rect street boots, not too heavy t look
well in her luxuriously furnished of
fice buttoned boots with light soles
and high heels. , a
Environment Calls for Clothes.
Two other offices were visited on
the same morning while business
clothes for the successful business
woman were under consideration one
was the office of a woman's maga
zine and the other a large mercan
tile office where a woman has a po
sition of great responsibility. The
woman at the editorial desk did wear
a shirtwaist a tub blouse, too, and it
accompanied a very, neat navy serge
evidently part of a well-tailored suit.
The blouse was of fine white linen,
hand-tucked and hemstitched and had
long sleeves, and a touch of real filet
on collar and cuffs. Low heeled tan
oxfords of excellent cut and style ac
companied the costume.
. The advertising woman in the other
I NUMBER of interesting hands
I Z have been sent me of late.
I " which T will
I discuss.
Ing:
8
A K Q J 10 5 .
94
J8 4 3
I
942
192
KQJ52
I a K102
AKJ10 7
7 6 4 3
A 10 6 3
This Is a particularly instructive
hand, as showing the benefits result
ing from the correct application of
inferences obtained from bids. It
should certainly impress upon the
student the necessity of having h!s
bid mean what it says; otherwise, or
not making a bid.
It was love score, the rubber game.
i. tne dealer, bid a heart. A wnt
'two diamonds." not so much with
the desire at the score that the hand
be played at diamonds, but because
it represented a genuine bid. and in
the hope that his partner, relying-
upon a certain Holding- in his ham.
might be Induced to make a better
old, spades or no trumps. Y. with
no help for his partner's bid. hearts,
but with an excellent holdiner In
clubs, went "three clubs." B, though
having two cards of the suit his
partner bid, diamonds, and thus bein
assured of the side holding the ma
jority, would nevertheless substitute
spades for the reason that at spades
game could be secured at one less
trick than at diamonds. Game, neces
sarily, was the goal each side was
desirous of attaining.
Z considered his partner had plainly
shown he had no assistance at hearts,
yet bad an excellent club holding-.
If he had not had, he would have
passed As he himself held but five
hearts, albeit good ones, hearts
clearly were out of the question.
However, as he had four clubs and
was thus assured of the side holding
Considerably more than the majority,
and as, moreover, he could ruff
spades from the start, he reasoned
that with his hearts as a side suit
and the diamond ace as re-entry, an
excellent score should be assured at
clubs. Therefore, he went "four
clubs." A raleed to "four spades,-
X and B passed and Z called five
clubs." Do not get the idea that Z-s
raise was visionary or illogical; on
the contrary, if his partner's bid was
based on sound principles, "as he had
reason to believe it was, it was en
tirely correct. If necessary he coulq
have carried the bid to six.
"Five clubs" held the bid, and Y-jJ
made a grand slam, or a total score
of 202 42 for tricks, 60 for honors
and 100 for slam.
The play went thus
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rHIS (5164) is one of those ador
able little gray frocks that
Paris Is daft about just now.
Gray duvetyn is the mater'al, and in
serts of the cluny lace give quite a
new touch to the bodice which opens
in front over a small vestee of white
satin. The feature of. the frock is the
coquettish sash, tied, according to this
winter's fashion, exactly over one hip.
Wide moire ribbon in a gray shade
matching the frock is used for the
crisp, graceful sash.- Here, too, is the
scalloped hem, much fancied this
winter.
Many of the winter frocks repro
duce the effect of separate skirt and
blouse, but when It Is a frock there
is always some touch of the skirt
material on the bodice. The model
pictured (5162) has a skirt of black
duvetyn and a bodice of black chif
fon embroidered with gold thread and
gold braid edges the front of the
bodice which drapes softly in surplice
style over a vestee of flesh pink satin.
The skirt is skillfully draped, with
soft folds at waistline and hip, but
a straight silhouette at the foot.
three spades to the king and an out- I knew that his shift meant no protec
side trick, the king of diamonds, j cion in diamonds, though a good club
could easilv have gone to "two 'suit, went "tnree no irumps- on nis
anato." Not. however, beyond that
Had "four spades" carried tne uia
Trick. A I Y j B j Z
1 J 2a 3 A 3
2 2 A 8 4
S 9 K 5 6
4 -4V 8V 3 10
5 2 4 5 ' A
6 9 44 6 K'
7 24 5 Q 7
8... 10a 8a 6a 7a
9 54 JS 74 Jv
10. J4 94 84 A4
Denotes winner of trick.
Tricks 11, 18 and 13 were won by
I with his three remaining clubs.
It may be argued that if B had led
a diamond, his partner's suit, rather
than his own suit, one trick might
have been saved. As a matter of fact,
he hesitated in regard to his lead, the
more so as his own suit contained
a tenace, generally an undesirable
suit to lead With the number he
held of the suit, however (six), be
realized it was exceedingly unlikely
he could win two tricks in the suit,
if Indeed he could win one. He felt,
and rightly, his best chance of mak
ing the ace was in at once leading It.
Had he, however, led the diamond
and B had put up dummy's ace, as
undoubtedly he should have done,
the result would have been the same.
Dummy's trumps (clubs) would have
served as re-entries, enabling him to
make his last heart.
As a matter of fact, the true
science of the hand lay In the bid
ding, as the hand practicaly played
Itself. The only play which would
have affected the result would have
been Y's refusal to finesse in the
heart suit at trick 4, when hearts
were first led. Y at that time had
won every trick and was assured of
all but one remaining. The only
chance of getting that one lay in
the finesse. It was, therefore, well
worth taking.
At sDades A-B could not hare lived
up to their contract. Two by cards
is all they wouia nave Deen aDje to
make. Therefore, at "four spades
they would have. fallen down to the
extent of two tricks, Incurring a pen
alty of 100 less four honors. 86, or 64.
As a matter of fact, while' B's bid
of "three spades" was somewhat
visionary, A certainly had nothing on
which to base a raise to four. Had
the bid been "one spade," A, with J
arid Y had sat to the left of B, th
strong spade holder, he undoubtedly
should have doubled. There are
rv,aw in fact, who would have done
so regardless or positions, as ."
player was able to count two, imc
three or four, tricks in his own hand
(three being his book), and he had
good reason to read his partner with
one or more tricks In hearts and a
trick in some otner sun.
Another of the hands sent me was
the following:
V 7 6 4 3 2
6 5
4 J8
a KQ10 3
v KJ10
AKQ.10 7 4 2
4 9-
a A6
Y A 8 5
X B a 9 8 3
Z 4 A J 6 2
' a J87
V Q 9
J
4 K 10 7 5 4 3
a 9 5 4 2
Again It was the rubber game! love
score, and game was the goal , de
sired. Z passed and A, taking a
chance on diamonds, bid no trumps.
Y and B passed. B's pass showed
that he did not hold five to an honor
n either of the major suits, but
whether it meant absolute lack of
help tor the no trump and a hand
too weak to warrant the overcall, or
perhaps no-trump assistance, A was
unable to determine.
Z. who saw the danger of leaving
the adversary in at his no-trump
bid, bid "two diamonds" on his Ions
suit to the king. This bid left A
unable to go on with no trumps, so
he shifted to "three clubs." Y again
passed, and B, who correctly In
ferred as" to his partner's holding ana
own protection in diamonds and a
trick in hearts.
Z, of course, passed and A played
the hand at "three no trumps" ana
made a little slam.
The play went as follows:
Trick, j A j Y j B
1 94 J4 Q K4
2 6a 84 A 104
3 A 6a sa ja
4 K 6 4 8 v2a
5 Qa 2v 9a 4a
6 loa 3 24 6a
7 7a 4 64 84
8 4a (4 7a 9a
9 2a sa 8a 44
1 10 7v A 9
11 , Kt 10a 8 Q
12 JV Qa 5v 64
13 AS Kt JS 74
Denotes winner of trick.
Played at clubs, A-B would still
have made a little slam, as they
would have lost simply one spade
trick. The score would have been
390, as against 410, not considerable
of a difference, to be sure, though
the gain of even one point which
Is the result of Judgment and supe
rlor play is by no means to be de
spised, less than ever in a game or
the nature of auction, which Is sus
cepttble of widely varying scores.
Had A's club suit not been phenome
nally strong (and B simply assumed
it to be of sufficient strength to
guarantee the shift, it being plainly
evident that he had no protection in
diamonds and must either pass or bid
his best suit). B's raise of A's orig
inal bid could easily have made con
siderably more of a difference in the
score.
Both of these hands show' the Im
portance of making absolutely cor
rect bids and enabling one's partner
definitely to read as to one's hola-
lng. In both cases had the bid been
wrong and the partner resorted to
the particular policy he did on the
assumption it meant a certain hold
ing which it did not, disaster could
easily have been the result. One of
the prettiest ami most scientific
features In the entire game has to
do with the correct application of
Inferences from the bids, and If the
bid therefore be unsound the entire
game becomes unbalanced, and It
good results are obtained It Is owing
rather to happy-go-lucky chance
than, as In the cases given, to thor
ough understanding and co-operation
on the part of the two composing
the partnership.
And here arises the question as to
which is the more Important and
the more conducive to a large score,
the absolutely dependable bidder or
the thoroughly correct player. It
can but be admitted that both are or
the utmost importance, but unfor
tunately the plnyer who poviesKos
the two qualifications In the same '
degree Is exceedingly rare.
to the successful play of auitlun,
and teamwork at the btelnnln of r
a band applies equally to all playrs
snd pertains exclusively to the bid
ding. When the bidding hie Cf-
and It la known who la lh. y4Ma
teamwork as such applies simply to
the two adversaries. There are many '
players who ss adversaries do eirrl- . '
lent teamwork, and there are also .
many piayars woo excel in ine piay
of the two hands, but the teamwork
of many of these same players with .
I A HI V1 1 n a. la .,maI.... f V a
formation by their bid; who bid .
lacking the strength to do so; who :' -.
aouoie at a stage wnicn gives Hie .
adversaries a chance for a safe shift: .
who SDnarantlv da not know m hen
their bid has gone sufficiently hint.
and a pass Is In order; who do not ! r
anew now to practice teui-tirac ment ' '
and leave their partner In at his bid. j :
etc. wnea playing with players or 1 -this
caliber one la very apt to aayi ..
"(.Iva ma tha dananriahl hlHat .
rather than the flaw lean nlaver. Ulva ; '
me the bidder wboaa bid meana a.
actly what It says, a ho does not 1
bold out raise promises wnicn ortea . -
not otherwise have done; who don- (- ;
bles only at tha right time and under
the right conditions, etc." '
There are some, however, who eon.
Is more to be desired than the ability , '.
correctly to bid; that, especially In :,
duplicate games, sound play Is more ,
vital than absolutely sound bidding. - .
A wen-Known eastern authority
speaks as follows on the subject: '
A am uvrciucmy 01 tne Ol'inioa tnai ,
more Is lost by just mlaslng the '
game or Just falling to save It than '. .
ty oaa Dtuaing. it one win examine
the play of bands In which tricks
are lost and gamee are Just missed
or quite saved, it will usually be
fnnnit that tha PMitlt rftia In tha .
violation ui ioihb lunuamamai pnn- :i
clple of play, which Is fully ex- ,
game. In going over a published .
HlnD-ram thara la tmiiU tltna , n rf.lapt
an error which In actual play often .
passes unnoticed. These are the .
gradually widen the breach between .'
the top scores and the 'also ran '
and the points loot and piled up . -
against the more careless player." -
As Is seen, there Is a diversity ot .
opinion on the subject, but It err- a
talnly behooves players to endeavor
to excel In both respects. '
Fruitgrowers to Have JUnqnet.
ALBANY, Or., Dee. 25 (Special.) '
Local stockholders and employes of
the Tuyallup and Sumner Fruitgrow
ers' association, which operates the
big cannery at Albany, will partlul-! '
pate In a banquet In the community!
house here New Year's eve. It Is'
proposed to make this banquet it
snnusl event In Albanv. J"
(mem
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-LUOTECEtr;
,.yc- -tdrmiiiiona.lbaunljrrem- I
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The Nation'! soar-ante d halrV
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LUCKY TlbUt DANDKUFP CO.
Dept. 2.13 Uanaa City, Ma
Tenfcars
The Doctor Says:
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Drive away dry throat with this
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t1
f ! aa n .r law
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Doesn't it make you feel
good cause you to straight
en up and feel "chesty"
when someone guesses your
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younger than you really
are? You look into your
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"Woll V10 rlirln'f malro giipVi Btrensrth and endurance by taking .'
a bad guess, at that." Fffjdf.
The Great General Tonic
The point is: You're no '
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If a man is strong, vigor
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lit at 50 he has a better
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other organs show signs of
weakness when you notice
a lack of your old time "pep"
and "punch'! in other
rords, when you feel your vitality
ia on the wane, you should com-
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New. York Kanasa City.
mm
' 4 .'-v
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