4
TIIE ST7NIXA.Y ORGONIAX, PORTLAND, NOVEMBER 21, 1920
CLEVER SLEEVES LIKE BUTTERFLY WINGS
IN FLUFFY TULLE DESIGNS LATEST VOGUE
New Frocks for Restaurant Dinner and Dance Are "Faddish" and Unique, Decidedly Smart and Ultimate
Word in Style, Reflecting Colorful Combinations of Alluring Materials and Trimmings of "Costumes.
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IS the fluffy arrangement of tulle
over her shoulders designed to
imitate poised wings or does the
effect portend a new sleeve style? It
is said sleeves are soon to be much
larger. This (4417) is a very gay
and inconsequent little restaurant
dance frock, anyway, with its puffed1
tulle at the shoulders, its looped-up
panniers in the skirt, its frilly tulle
peplum escaping at the hips and its
new "pull-back" skirt and, yes, one
cannot avoid the impression its bus
tle! Peach-colored taffeta and flesh
colored tulle are combined, with sil
ver thread roses embroidered on the
peach taffeta.
Not a flounce nor a frill, not a bead,
not a wisp of lace has this new dance
frock which in the eyes o the
elect is decidedly smart and the very
last word in style. It is fashioned
of cherry red Chiffon velvet and here
and there over its surface with care
ful disregard for any suggestion of
regularity are fiattened-out roses
made of black satin. Like all the
smartest dancing frocks, this one has
a very short skirt, and the scalloped
hem is much used in , velvet dance
frocks of the season.
As though black chiffon velvet were
not beautiful enough in itself, fashion
is encrusting it this winter with em
broideries of sparkling beads. Here
(4605) is a restaurant dinner and
dance frock of black velvet with an
odd crystal embroidery in fan motifs,
the pattern increasing in size toward
th foot, where there is a rich border.
The V decolletage now must be very
deep to give the correct line and
usually the V is carried down over a
set-in modestie of matching or con
trasting fabric.
Maid's Apron More Vital
Than Gown of Mistress.
VUiitor Jadffn K n o w I e dl e of
Standards at Frunt Door.
TUB maid's apron at the front door
is more important than the gown
in which you enter the drawing room
to greet your guest. By the correct
appointment of your Abigail will your
visitor judge your knowledge of con
ventional standards, and not by the
frills and furbelowa of expensive type
that you yourself, are wearing.
The maid must be very neat and
very trim. Eer gownmust be dark
and exceedingly plain, her coiffure
and footwear properly sensible and in
perfect order. Her sleeves must reach
her wrists and should be finished off
with close, unrumpled cuffs of speck
less white. Her apron must be small
and rather saucy. The big white
apron has quite gone out; only nurse
maids wear -white aprons now, and
then only in the nursery never on
the street. The housemaid wears a
iiny apron, crisp and (dainty. -Its
chief requirement is a look of having
just come from the ministrations of
a hot flatiron.
The best dressed maids are wearing
Just now aprons of fine linen with
hemstitched hem, pockets and belt.
It more trimming is desired, there
may be a narrow edging of crochet
lace around the edge or a crochet in
sertion bisecting the apron. The
linen apron has more style and crisp
ness than other kinds, and maids
themselves like these aprons, since
linen may be ironed to look smooth
and lustrous without the bother of
adding starch.
Ths dainty little French shoes with
ribbon ties have had their day for
street wear, though they will be worn
all winter as house shoes and evening
shoes. A promenade out of doors now
demands footwear of autumn sem
blanceeither low-heeled tan leather
And with linen filet is the loveliest
lace.
- --
Wonderful what a fan can do to add
emphasis to an evening gown! A very
simple black lace dinner gown with
looped sash of black satin is made the
most interesting costume in the room
by a huge red feather fan. The sim
ple blacjt gown is just the right foil
for that gorgeous red fan that you
simply cannot overlook.
Beads grow bigger and bigger in
Paris. Now they are the sise of
cherries; who knows when they will
be like plums? Paris restaurant ana
evening frocks are trimmed with
these large beads strung on colored
cords. The beads are held at inter
vals on the cords with tight, invisible
knots, and the beaded corda are used
as necklaces and in long loops here
and there amid draperies. '
Unless you are already supplied
with the knitted wool sport hose
which you intend to wear this win
ter with your new sport shoes, have
the shoes fitted over two pairs of ordi
nary silk stockings. Shoes fitted over
a single pair of silk stockings will
reel a bit too snug for perfect com
fort when donned over the bulkier
, i nil
III I I J
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woolen stockings. And of fc.ll foot
wear, eport shoes should -grive the
foot perfect comfort and freedom.
The sport maid is planning to' wear,
for ekating and outdoor sports this
winter, two pairs of stockings ribbed
wool ones rolled down at the top. Boy
Scoot fashion, over thinner stockings
of lisle or silk in the same shade. - AH
the bathing girls and camp girls wore
rolled-down stockings last summer
and the trig effect, they have de
cided, must be carried over through
the winter season; but of course
stockings roll ed down from . bare
knees would be a bit, well, chilly, on
January ice! Therefore the two pairs
of hose. Two pairs of stockings,
especially if the outer ones are of
Scotch 'wool, will mean more roomy
shoes if you hope to be comfortable
golfing, tramping, coasting or skat
ing this winter.
One pair of silk hose, however, is
quite enough -to please fashion when
it is a question of dancing slippers or
buttoned walking boots. Black silk
stockings are again fashionable and
one sees them in sheer lace patterned
weave or ribbed effect, above the
light-colored "boots worn with .dainty
afternoon costumes. Clock embroi
dered stockings of rather heavy silk
are liked with buttoned footwear ac
companying simple tailored garb.
THANKSGIVING RECIPES
GIVEN BY MISS TINGLE
Good Meats and How to Cook Them, if Turkey Is Too Expensive, Are
- Listed by Expert in Foodstuffs.
T:
BT IvILIylATf TINGLK. . i
HE following remarks are Intend
ed particularly for the "beginning
housekeeper" and will serve to
answer many questions recently ad
dressed to me, for which there is no
roorai In the regular "answers to cor
respondents."
Deciding on the ThaDkifiTiMV Meat
In planning a Thanksgiving dinner.
naturally the "main course" is your
first care and will help to decide the
rest of the meaL 'And naturally you
think first of turkey.
But if .turkeys for Thanksgiving
roost too high" this year, what then?
Then what about roast chicken or
chicken pie? Chicken pie has the
double advantage of "stretching the
chicken to the utmost" while giving
plentiful "helpings" and it requires
little or no "last-minute" attention.
Or you 'may be fortunate enough to
have ducks or geese if you have no
turkey.
If poultry is out of the question a
prime roast of beef or a boned and
baked picnic ham or a nice leg of
mutton; or a roa&t of pork might be
chosen, . the latter of course being
best avoided if there are young chil
dren or persons of delicate digestion,
to be cons'dered. '
Pot Roost Might Do.
If these "choice" meats are too cost
ly, then a nice "chunky" pot roast,
well, boned and trussed. nicely
browned, first, then cooked long and
slowly, or a breast of lamb rolled,
steamed and then browned in a hot
oven, will give an appetizing meal;
or an inexpens've but nicely made
meat loaf may serve and be quite
delicious, too. '
But whatever kind of meat fthe
pocketbook and circumstances may
dictate, there should certainly be an
accompaniment of "dressing" (or
stuffing" if you prefer to call it 'so)
either in the meat itself or baked
separately as-an accompaniment; and
there must be plenty of good brown
(not pale gray) gravy and, of course,
the seasonal vegetables in plenty, all
nicely cooked.
Poor dressing and poor gravy may
Into practically all dressings. Use he
smaller quantity for turkey, chicken
and the lighter meats and the larger
with duck, goose or pork.
Chopped Parsley Is Good.
Chopped parsley (very finely chop
ped) Is good in any dressing using
from 1 teaspoon "to 1 tablespoon per
cup. Finely chopped celery leaf or
celery also is generally liked In about
the same proportion.
If sage is used be very careful not
to overdo it- It is such a strong fla
vor that it easily becomes too much
for delicate meats. You will have to
add it "to taste," I think. Remember
that freshly dried sage leaves, dried
crisp and rubbed to a powder (with
out any stems) give the best results
if fresh sage is available.
A minute amount of fresh dried
thyme gives a delicate and delicious
flavor but is also easily overdone.
The same may be said about minced
poultry spice a little may be good:
too much is horrid.
Other optional flavoriugs include
grated lemon rind ( to teaspoon
per cup); finely chopped green pepper
or pimento (1 to 2 tablespoons per
cup) ; a few graius of mace or cay
enne or powdered cloves.
Seasonings Salt and pepper and a
few drops of lemon juice (or of to
mato catsup) are of course, needed
for 'final seasoning,' 'and about as
mu'.h sugar as you use salt may be
found trseful, not as "sweetening," but
as "flavor developer."
' Tool. Mack Wettlnnr Bad.
Wetting What about wetting?
Tou.will not need to add any prob
ably, unless the dried crumbs are
used. Too much wetting makes
"soggy" dressing. If any is used, it
should be only enough to enable you
to gather up the dressing in a ball
so that it will, just hold together.
If it sticks to the bowl it is too
wet.
A little .beaten egg may be used if
tu c.r-s ir.g is wanted .o s!.c-3 oM.
or to slice and fry, but la other
cases the egg, tends to make Uie
eesing too stiff when codx
Character ingredients If you don't
want a plain "savory or "herbal
dressing then omit any of the strong
est flavorings such as sage or poultry
spice, and add to the mildly but well-'
seasoned bread foundation and short
ening such -ingredients as chopped
walnuts, or' chopped peanuts (1 to 4
tablespoons full per cup), or cooked
mar (and too often, alas, do mar) the PPed chestnuts ( V4 to 1 cup to
finest turkey; while a well-made,
well-seasoned dressing, full of "char
acter" and flayor and free from that
besetting sin of dressings "soggl
ness" will make the simplest din
ner memorable.
Bread Dressings.
To begin with the most frequently
made kind, dressings having a foun
dation of bread or bread crumbs, we
may consider two classes: (1) those
made with soaked bread; (2) those
made with crumbs. .
The soaked bread sort is perhaps
the quicker made; the "crumb" kind
is usually the lighter, and for poultry
is generally preferable.
If you use soaked bread never,
never be guilty of soaking it in hot
or Warm water, as the untrained
cook is-almost invariably impelled to
do by some perverse mysterious Influ
ence. That way "sogginess" lies. .
Dry Bread Should be" Soaked.
Instead, soak the dry bread (with
out breaking it up) in cold water
until fully swollen and sponge-like.
Then squeeze it as dry as possible
and beat it to a light and even tex
ture. Hot water makes it "stickier"
and harder to "beat light.
If dry crumbs are used for a foun
dation crush them with a rolling pin
or pass the brittle dry bread through
a meat chopper and sift so as to have
a light, even texture.
If fresh crumbs are used, as in
"superfine" poultry dressings, cut the
crusts from a two-day-old loaf, rub
the crumbs lightly between the hands
and pass .the fresh white crumbs
through a colander. Ccumbs like this
need no additional moisture. The cut
off crusts should he dried and used
for driedcrumbs. These fine white
crumbs make delicate and delicious
dressings but are not exactly eco
nomical. Quantities.
You can allow 2 or 3 tablespoons of
light beaten, soaked bread or fresh
crurrtbs for each person of ordinary
appetite; but you had better allow
more for growing boys, or for hun
gry men-folk.
For dry sifted crumbs allow about
two-thirds as much as of the fresh
crumbs or light beaten soaked bread.
Shortening.
For every cup of bread thus esti
mated allow 1 to 2 tablespoons short
ening, the smaller quantity if such a
fat as crisco or salad oil is used, the
larger if butter, bacon fat or dripping
should be chosen.
Bacon fat or tried out salt pork fat
are particularly good for dressings
and chopped "crisped" bacon or salt
pork makes a good savor- addition to
a dressing.
Klavorings.
Finely chopped onions or onion
juice to the amount of from 1 tea
spoon to 2 tablespoons to every cup
of bread (according to -personal taste
and the kind of meat used) will go
m
iffioinoHit
BplgS X Back Lace orFiGnt Lace X EK3
13 H
'fr S
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ii i i i ii i j
. CORSET BONING ' f S
The name is trade marked. w 1 l
Used exclusively in BON J n C
TON corsets Bones J U
will outwear the corset. Jj L J
Dpi
xm
Your Protection!
The tradetnarked name
lBON TON" is your safe
guard when buying corsets.
The high standard of
QUALITY maintained in
BON TON corsets has made
these corsets famous in every
country where civilized
women live.
Take no risk in buying a
corset of unknown origin,
insist on BON TON.
Ask Your Dealer
Corset Clasp
is TRADE MARKED.
Does not BREAK,
does not PINCH, and
always STAYS FLAT.
ROYAL WORCESTER CORSET COMPANY, Manufacturer, Worcester, Mass.
Branch OJfices and Salesroom!, New York Chicago San Francisco
1 cup bread foundation), or oysters.
(the pocketbook Is your limit), or
chopped shsjimp (1 can to 2 or 3 cups
bread foundation), or chopped ripe
olives (1 to 3 tablespoons per cup)
or chopped hard boiled egg, (about
1 egg to 2 cups bread), or other
"character ingredient" giving its name
to the dressing.
Some housewives like a few raisins
in their poultry or meat dressings
(especially if they have Scandinavian
culinary traditions in the family)
and others like a little chopped ap
pie, chopped pickle to give piquancy
to a plain savory bread dressing
either with, or without herbs.
Season It to Taste.
In any case, taste it. and season it
until it "tastes good," and then,- if
the stuffing s to be put into the
interior of poultry or into a roll of
meat, add a little more salt etc., than
if it is to be baked in a well greased
baking dish, since the meat will tend
to diminish and absorb the saltiness.
Don't stuff meat or poultry too
tightly. That way also lies sogginess.
Bake a separate dish of dressing
(covered with buttered crumbs) so
as to have enough without over
crowding the bird.
The gravy Next if you roast the
bird or the meat in the oven don't
use water iu basting the roast. That
way airo- lies sogginess of meat and
of dressing and pale gravy.
Instead, see to it that there is
enough fat in the pan for basting,
and, if possible, let the bird or meat
rest on a little wire rack above the
fat. Baste often with the fat. dur
ing the first half hour or 20 minutes,
while the outside is searing in the
hot oven, then cover the roast and re
duce the heat, so that the bird or meat
will cook slowly in an oven temper
ature that cannot possibly burn the
fat or make it "sputter," even though
there ia no water added.
Then you will not have to "baste
frequently," but be sure not to hurry
the roast. Give it time and gentle
heat until tender, then remove the.
top of the roaster during the last
part of the cooking, (or open the
roaster valve if you have a valve
roaster) and slightly Increase the
heat to give just the right brown.
Pat Clean Fat in Pan.
In the pan there should then Ce
the browned (but not burned) "glaze"
or roast meat juice and clear not
overheated fat, but practically no
watery juice.
Keep the roast hot in the oven;
pour off all the fat except what you
need for gravy (allowing about 1 to
Ihi tablespoons fat for each cup of
gravy desired. To the remaining fat
and browned juice, add 1 to 14 level
tablespoons flour for each cup gravy
wanted, with teaspoon salt. Stir
quickly over the fire, then add the
desired number of cups of cool or cold
stock from bones or giblets) or of
water if no " stock is available, and
stir until brown and smooth. Sea
son with salt, pepper (careful with
that pepper and a- few drops lemon
juice, strain, if necessary, and add
chopped giblets if you are making
glblet gravy. t
If the juice in the pan is not suf
ficiently brown "reduce it to a glaze"
by. boiling down rapidly directly over
the fire, then proceed as above.
Another way that the beginner
sometimes finds easier is to dissolve
the browned "glaze" (or meat juice)
in hot water, or hot stock, boiling up
first and then adding the thickening
(mixed smooth in cold water) then
boiling until it thickens.
To the inexperienced bride who
still has trouble with her brown
gravy, I whisper, "if you can't do any
thing else, sooner than send that pale
pastry gravy to table, add one or
two bouillon cubes."
not to need them.
POSITIVELY STOPS
FALLING HAIR
more formal costume, buttoned boote.
There are very dressy buttoned boots
with tops of pale or tan suede for
formal occasions and there are good
looking buttoned boote with walking
heels and welted soles for ordinary
street wear with the tailored suit.
Trousseau sets for October brides
include nightgown, envelope chemise
and camisole of fine, sheer Irish linen
oort shoes of good style, or, with trimmed with real filet. Than this
combination of materials there is
nothing smarter or more exclusive,
just now. Sometimes there is a touch
of hand embroidery and of course the
dainty garments are made by hand.
Fine linen underwear is considered a
bit more exclusive than underwear of !
silken stuffr because of the favor j
Paris has accorded linen and because
women have discovered for them- I
selves the excellence and delightful- I
ness of pure linen undergarments.
the scalii" promotes )
luxuriant growth enda
the beauty ox toe hair
a lew weeks.
lucky Tiger
thm Nation's Hair
Remedy Quickly
curea dandruff sod
Scalp eczema, A won
derful drassfnv viaed
by mJllteia. Try It today. For sale at all
leadins Barber shopo, or send 26e for trial
bottie. Sins-le application will oonvinea.
LUCKY TIGER DANDRUFF CO.
Dept. 2S3 Kum City. Mh
i r,-ik
I i4 mbtos
The world owes a debt of gratitude to the
author of the now famous Marmola Pre
scription, and is still more indebted forthe
reduction of this harmless, effective obesity
remedy to tablet form They are so con
venient to take, and as pleasant as candy.
One after each meal and at bedtime wui
quickly reduce your weight, two, three or
four pounds a week, end leave do evil
effects such as loose, flabby akin and un
sightly wrinkle. Just go on eating what
you like leave exercise to the athletes
take your tittle tablet as directed and soon
you will be your natural self, cloaked ill
firm flesh and trim muscles. Marmola
Prescription Tablets may now be obtained
at all drug stores, or by writing direct to
the Marmola Co- 92 Garfield Building,
Detroit, Mich., and their reasonable price
one dollar for a good atee box leaves
no excuse for dieting or violent exercise
for the reduction of the, overfat body to
normal proportions
To "Youth-ify"
Gray, Streaked Hair
Ask anybody to guess how old you
are. ana notice now tneir Ilrst ap
praising glance is directed at your
hair.
To be answered "You can't be more
than thirty;, I can tell by your hair,"
must Rive to any woman who is
really forty or more a sense of pride
and satisfaction.
But to become prematurely gray at
SO or 40, to look ten years older than
mwf Hot
you actually are that Is Indeed a
bitter experience. However, any
woman can, with a bottle of Brown
atone, restore to gray, faded and
streaked hair all its maiden beauty
and the identical color It had in
girlhood, whether light golden, me
dium, dark brown or black. Brown
atone is instant in results and abso
lutely harmless.
At all druggists: 60c and $1.60; two
colors: L,ight to Medium Brown" and
"Dark Brown to Black."
Special Free Trial Offer
For a free trial package of Brown
atone, send to The Kenton Pharmacal
Co.. 537 Coppin Bldg., Covingtorfc Ky ,
inclosing 11 cents to pay postage,
packing and war tax. Tear this out.
Adv.
Dandruff Heads
Become Hairless
If you want plenty of thick, beau
tiful, glossy, silky hair, do by. all
means get rid of dandruff, for it Will
starve your hair and ruin it if you
don't.
It doesn't do much good to try to
brush or wash it out.- The only sure
way to get rid of dandruff is to dis
solve it, then you destroy it entirely.
To do this get about four ounces of
ordinary liquid arvon;- apply it at
night when retiring; use enough to
moisten the scalp and rub it in gently
with the finger tips.
By morning most. If not all. of your
dandruff will be- gone, and three or
four more applications will completely
dissolve and entirely destroy evBry
single sign and trace of it.
You will find, too, that all itching
and digging of the scalp will stop and
your hair will look and feel a hundred
times better. You can get liquid arvon
at any drug store. It is inexpensive
and four ounces is all you will need.
r Tnatter how much dandruff you
have. This simple remedy never fails.
aqt. -
V M '.NT V.&A
1 I I
But you ought
Complexion
rIictely soft and rafinsd
is the complexion aided by
Nadine Face Powder
This axquUHe beautiRer Im
parts an indefinable charm
a charm and- loveliness
which o n d a r o throughout
the day and linger in the
memory.
Its coolnaes la refreshing
and it cannot barm the ten
darest akin.
Sold In Its green boa at
leading: toilet countero or by
mail 60c
'p-i
risk nMiuriAb
ed Feather
Complexion
Powder
Cold by Skidmore urug Co, and other
toilet counters.
To Get Rid of Wrinkles
. and Bad Complexions
Most cosmetics clog- the pores. In cool
weather, when one does not perspire free
ly, this interferes greatly m-lth elimination
of waste material, injuring' instead of ald
tng the complexion. Ordinary mercolised
wax serves all the purposes Of creams,
powders and rouges, giving far better re
sults. . It actually pee la off an offensive
akin, at the same time unclogging the
pores. Minute particles of scarf gkin come
off day by day,-causing not the least dis
comfort. Gradually the healthy, younger
skin beneath peeps out, and in less than a
fortnight you have a lovelier complexion
than you ever dreamed of acquiring. Mer
colised wax, obtainable at any drug store.
Is spread on nightly like cold cream and
w ashed off mornings. One ounce usually
suffices.
For removing wrinkles, without stop
ping the pores with pasty stuff, here's a
never-failing formula: One ounce pow
dered saxoiite. dissolved in one-half pint
witch hazel. Use as a wash lotion. Every
line will quickly disappear. Adv.
Hair Roots Come Out
Before Your Very Eyes
The new way to remove superfluous
hair, roots and all the phelactine way
is rapidly superseding the old-fashioned
depilatory methods, as well as electricity,
razor and . tweezers. And no wonder!
Here is a product so harmless a child
could safely eat it so non-irritating and
odorless K is altogether pleasant to use
and the proces is e quick acting that
it actually removes the hairs entire, in-
rludinsT the roots, in just a few seconds:
You will surely have the surprise of
your life if you win obtain a stick of
phelactine from your d rugffist and follow
the simple Instructions. Adv.
Contains certain ingredients which
make it distinctively perfect.
It has the necessary adhering quality.
It acts as an astringent, contracting
the pores of the skin and producing
' that baby softness.
It is daintily fragrant. ,
It couldn't be better, though the price
'were multiplied by ten.
A generoussize box for 50c
Thb
Remiller Co.
xjoW. i7dSc
New York
Sold in tU
Owl Drug Stores
and by other
good druggists
and department
SAGE TEA BEAUTIFIES
AND DARKENS HAIR
Don't Stay Gray! It Darkens
" So Naturally that No
body can Tell.
You can turn gray, faded hair beau,
tifully dark and lustrous almost over
night if you'll get a bottle of
"Wyeth's Sage and Sulphur Com
pound" at any drug store. Millions of
bottles of this old famous Saga Tea
Recipe, improved by the addition of
other ingredients, are sold annually,
says a well-known druggist here, be
cause It darkens the hair so naturally
and evenly that no one can tell it has
been applied.
Those whose hair Is turning gray or
becoming faded have a surprise
awaiting them, because after one or
two applications the gray hair van
ishes and your locks become luxuri
antly dark and beautiful. '
This is the age of youth. Gray
haired, unattractive folks aren't
wanted around, so get busy with
Wyeth's Sage and Sulphur Com
pound tonight and you'll be delighted
with your dark, handsome hair and
your youthful appearance within a
few days.- Adv.