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About The Sunday Oregonian. (Portland, Ore.) 1881-current | View Entire Issue (Sept. 12, 1920)
THE SUNDAY OREGON! AN, PORTLAND. SEPTE3IBER 12, 1920 LONG SLIM GOATS AND SHORT FLARE ONES . VIE FOR POPULARITY IN FASHION CENTERS Fitted Effects Reproduce Lines in Green and Balkan Costume Formal Suits Loaded With Embroidery' and Fur Finger-tip Jacket Most Popular in America. "'- 1 J f ,.y ?- - iHy t v i r i; 1 - ' s, i M 1 1. s - ' 1--' i a W . Ct I f . . ' f7 f 'J, Jilt- - r - J. i . . i I 3' ' ' V A v , s A- 'J- x II 1 ; ' . I- ISr! 4 - - x - - - WHEN you hear, or read, that fitted jackets are coming- in, do not immediately visualize the tight little, snusr little buttoned up. Jacket of ten or a dozen years igone; for that is not the Bort of fit ted effect fashion premeditates. The new tailor-mades are certainly more "fitted" than have been the 'perfectly loose, straight garments of the past few seasons, but the fitting conveys an effect of lithe looseness like a man's fitted coat. The figure beneath Is very loosely corseted, and though coats are certainly "nipped in" a bit under the arms to give a curving line, front and back are as flat cJever tailor can make them and any suggestion of a tightly-corseted fig ure is carefuliy avoided. Women simply will not return to the small-waisted, high-busted ef fects which are inevitable ' with , any kind of a tight tit. Kor a bodice or coat snugly fitted means a snug fitting corset beneath, and this kind of corset produces unloved curves of back and pronounced bust lines on an average feminine figure past the early slenderness of youth. Last year couturiers tried hard to revive the distended skirt and small waistline but they had to give it up there was too much favor for straight, loose lines and oriental draperies. No amount of persuasion can induce the I modern, sensible woman to constrict her diaphragm under a tight corset, and with the comfortable low-topped, loose corset and the la.ger waist measure it gives, a distended skirt is clumsy and hideous. So the French style-makers have effected a compromise. They decided it was time to have tailor-mades a little trimmer and more figure re vealing but they" have kept the sil houette of the figure natural, free and lithe. The result is: Natural shoulder line with graceful outline of the upper arm, low waistline and slim hips and a very slight inward curve of the jacket under the arm a most pleasing and elegant effect when rightly carried out. Long coats and short coats will be worn; some couturiers favor one style, some the other. The long coats are very long quite to the knee, and short jackets have a fitted-in effect at the waist with peplum below. There are alto medium length .jackets what, in America, is called the fingertip length and this style is more popular here than either the long, dignified coat r the jaunty peplum coat of Paris, though modes of Paris will be worn by women who regularly follow 1'rench inspiration in dress. One of the strikingly interesting tailleurs of the new season is a black velvet suit by Callot. The coat falls well below the hips and has very flat lines at back and front with a decided incurve at the sides, under the arm. Seams down the back and darts at the front are bound with scarlet braid and a cascade drapery down the skirt is bound with the red braid also this touch of bright color being considered almost essential just now according to French notion. Poiret. as always, strikes the high est color note of the season in his creations. Poiret cares a deal more for color than line and tailleurs from thiB house are always splendid hue and material. If lines are your particular fetish, you go to Drecoll, Paquin, Worth, Lanvin. If you adore striking combinations of color you favor Poiret, Brandt, Bulloz, Jenny. Poiret this fall is making a great many navy blue suits, the conserva tive dark shade brightened by gay color in vests or embroideries. For example, a navy tricotiae suit with a. rather long cape coat embroidered with yellow wool and beads. The roll collar is faced with yellow and white cloth. Another Poiret suit of navy wool velour has a vest and lapel collar of .gray plush embroidered in multi-color Chinese pattern. Brandt has trimmed a graceful little suit of lrown wool velour with an embroi dery of black floss and oilcloth ap pliques, the glistening sections of black and cream oilcloth taking the form of small flowers ,hem rather than at even distance's up the skirt. Another charming gray tailleur is of broadcloth with looped pannier draperies of gray velvet form ing the lower part of the coat. A baiyl of gray squirrel goes around the neck, down the front, and curves around the velvet drapery. There is a single fastening a wide cut steel ornament at the waistline. A good many of the French tailleurs have slightly fitted jackets repro ducing the jaunty lines of the Bal kan and Greek soldiers. In these jackets thewaistline is rather high and seams under the arm curve well into the figure, while a flare peplum falls below the waistline. The style is popular in Paris as a novelty, but will probably not appeal to American women as it does to Parisiennes. Most American women have a keen eye for line and know its value, and they are not to be led astray by passing fancies for novelty or striking styles. The Paris topcoats just now are graceful affairs much trimmed with strappings of braid and not all sug gestive of a rainy day or sport gar ment. Particularly graceful is a coat from Drecoll, a beltless. pocketless modal with flat panels at back and front and deep inverted pleats at the sides. Itis of blue velour with much stitching in gray, and a collar faced with gray duvetyn. Another coat from Madeleine et Madeleine is of blue duvetyn soutached with blue 'on bands ofgray. Paris is always evolving unique no tions. Now she is putting applique of glistening oilcloth on the very handsomest cloth tailleurs! Here (2301) Is a French tailor-made for autumn, its fine brown wool mix ture embellished with interesting lit tle flower embroideries as you might call them made of black and cream oilcloth appliqued to the material with black silk stitchery. The jacket is ill jaunty length and has a very graceful new fur collar in draped Medici effect, with a wide band of fur running around the hips. The flare cuff with folds of cloth is also a new note. You cannot go wrong choosing gray for your winter suit color. A great many of the French tailor-mades are gray, and here (2303) is a particu larly charming model from Drecoll, in pale gray cloth trimmed with fluted pale gray braid and a touch of gray squirrel at the collar. The triple-tier skirt, with the overlapping effect close to the hem. is one of the notable French styles for fall; and though the peplum of the jacket Is gathered at the waistline,' the sil houette of the costume is graceful and slender. The lines Jot this winter wrap (2270) are perfection. The garment has the looseness and draped effect now favored but flat panels at back and front with inverted pleats at either side prevent any bulkiness of silhouette. This coat is made of gray blue wool velour with elaborate braiding in two shades of gray.. The braided collar is faced with gray duvetyn. which shows in a turned over flap when the collar is buttoned up trigly around the throat. S AN illustration of poor bidding dummy the lead for the fourth round I give the following hand, which recently came up in the course of play: Q 9 6 3 Q S A K Q 10 6 2 10 4 2 K 7 5 4 3 J 98 6 5 5 J 10 9 5 3 K Q 10 9 S 4 3 A K J 8 A 8 2 7 4 2 A J 7 The score wa love ail. first game. Z, the dealer, bid a heart. Why, with an excellent no-trump holding, three aces, one supported by king and jack, and another by jack, Z should ' have bid hearts in preference to no trumps question best known to him self., I have repeatedly emphasized the importance of making a good spade or heart bid rather than no trumps. I have said, in fact, that when in doubt between no trumps and epades or hearts the latter should be chosen save only when the hand contains a hundred aces, when, for the sake of the honor score, no trtfmps generally should be declared. Z's hand is, however, not an illustra tion of the case in point. It con stitutes an excellent no-trump bid, but emphatically It does not justify heart bid. A good spade or heart bid should contain at least fiv cards. with one or both of the two top honors and an outside trick. The hand contains the outside trick (two, in fact), and the suit contains the two top honors, but it has but four cards. With four cards only of a suit, it develops very frequently that some other player holds an equal or even a greater number, and as one has two opponents to but one partner. the chances are two to one that this Is one of the opponents rather than one's partner. In such case, where i one's vaunted strength and wherein lies, the player's ability to go game or even perhaps to keep his contract? I may state that had there been .one more heart, in all five, hearts un questionably should have been bid. As it was, no trumps was the only sane j or sound bid the hand offered. However, Z bid-a heart; A passed. and Y, Z's partner, bid "two dia monds." If Z's bid was ill-advised. Y's was ' utterly without rhyme or reason. With five hearts in his own hand and an excellent four-card suit i side suit, why he should have changed from a suit which insured good promise of game to a minor suit with its- always doubtful possi bilities of game is inexpiainaoie. especially as the suit contained but four cards. The excuse I offered for doing so, that it insured a 56-point honor score was utterly puerile ana not worth a moment's -consideration. B went "two spadee," also, at the score and particularly as his partner had passed, "utterly without reason. and Z, who assumed from his part ner's overcall that he was without help for hearts, and had a good dia- ond suit, went "two no trumps, ai which the hand was played. The play was as poor as the bidding. Z took four odd tricks. or game, and quite oblivious of the fact that he had the chance to make a slam, seemed in ex cellent high humor at doing, so. Properly played, the hand would have gone thus: - ' that he might make his last heart. At Trick 7, therefore, dummy got in the lead and made his queen of hearts. The heart run put all the players to Inconvenient discards, A being com pelled to discard twice, T3 four 'times and Z once- A hoped that by keep ing his diamonds intact, he would prevent the dummy from making all his diamonds, so he discarded rather from his club suit. B refrained from the discard of -a diamond, because of the information of weakness it would give declarer, and so. after discard ing three spades, discarded a club. Z realized the importance of keeping all his diamonds, so discarded a small club. Dummy, who at Trick 8 was in the lead, led the ace,, and followed at Trick 9 with the king of diamonds. Declarer then saw the importance of himself getting in the lead in order to lead a third round of diamonds for a finesse in the dummy hand, so at Trick 10 -he led a spade from the dummy hand and regulated his own play according to the card & played to the trick. If B played queen he would win with ace and next lead the jack. If B played a smaller card he would win with jack and then come out with ace. In either case he would win both tricks 10 and 11, and at i ' - Trick 12 lead his remaining: dia mond, which would put dummy in and enable him to make two remain ing tricks. In all. therefore, Z-Y would win a little slam. In the event that B after winning the first trick with the spade queen had gone on with spades, the result would have been the same provided Z had correctly played , throughout. He would have won the second spade trick and as before led out all the hearts. At trick 10 dummy, whom the sec ond round of spades had deprived of spades, would lead a club, declarer would get in, and, after making the commanding club, would again lead the diamond for the finesse in the dummy hand. As the finesse would be successful, the side again would make a little slam.' If B had not made a bid and Z after his partner's overcall of dia monds had bid no trumps (on the assumption that his partner had ex cellent diamonds, but no help in hearts, the suit he f rst bid) he would still have mad a little slam if he correctly sensed and made use of his opportunities. A would have led fourth best club, in this case the four-spot. Declarer with ace in his own hand and queen and one small in dummy, and supposing king to be held1 by A, would have put up queen and held the trick- Then, again, he would have made his four hearts. This would have given him six tricks At the two. next tricks he would as before have made his ace and king of diamonds (eight tricks) and then for finesse in diamonds thrown the lead in his own hand. Had dummy led the spade, which he likely would have done, as by this time it would have been evident B's best suit was spades, A would have won the trick with the ace or jack, according to how B had plajed. next led his command ing club, and then the diamond, B winning the queen, 10 right over A's jack, 9. ! ..... In the hand as in realtly played Z made but four tricks. He d'd not make the finesse in diamonds, there fore A made a diamond trick; when clubs were led he passed up the ace. thinking dummy might take it with the queen (this gave the trick to A), and heTlost one spade trick. Yet. as stated, he 'was supremely happy and felt he had made all of which the hand van capable. Had Z. bid no-trumps originally, as by all the known rule for bid ding he, should have done. Y with five cards of a major suit (hearts) to an honor should have made the overcall of "two hearts." and Z. who could see that at hearts an excellent score 5 was assured, should have been well content to let the bid stand. Strictly speaking, therefore. Y should have played the hand rather than Z. If properly played, the hand at hearts would have, produced a little slam and' the score would have stood 130 rather than 150. Other things being equal, the difference between a lit tle slam at no trumps and hearts is negligible, only 13 points. In this case there would have been a difference of eight points in honors. For the information of those who may still cling to the belief that B should have bid spades. I will fur- ther explain that had the rubber been at stake the hid would have been allowable. At the riven score It was entirely unjustifiable, and would have given A false Inferences, causing: htm to read B with a sure trick outside of the trump suit. This would he distinctly untrue. B's hand Is incapable of one trick In the side suits. Counting his six losing tricks in these sulbs and at least one trick in the trump suit, he stands to lose seven tricks a very poor hand on which to make a bid of two odd tricks In- all eight tricks. Moreover, his partner had passed, thus indicat ing the lack of a first-round bid in his handi consequently not much support. This hand at first sight would seem somewhat mediocre, and it is only by analysis that one discovers its hidden possibilities and realizes its true worth. This Is the case with many hands: hands, which, given a cursory glance, would seem In a sense to be piano hands are often found to be hands embodying a principle and well repaying careful and analytical study. Let no hand, therefore, be carelessly thrust aside as unworthy of proper thought and attention. While there are some, .to be sure. that will bring the same score, no matter how played, they are the ex ception rather than the rule. The majority will well repay the time and thought bestowed upon them. mc Trick. j A Y B Z 1 5 2 Q 7 2 3 S J A 3 2 3 B A 4 4" 6 3 K 5 10 7 4 J 6 -4 9 8 S 7 G Q 9 2 8 64 A 34 24 9.."." 8 K4 54 44 10 7 6 .9 'J 11 94 Q 10 A 12..; J4 Q4 10 74 13. . . . K 104 K '7 Denotes winner of trick. C. S. writes as follows: "There seems to be quite a differ ence of opinion in our little club as to just how much a player should risk being set in order to save the rubber game. What is this . game worth, it being agreed that neither side has any advantage in the score so far as total points are concerned up to that time?" This question is somewhat difficult to answer, as no one seems definitely to know. Some contend that as a rubber averages 400 points, it is worth risking 400 to save it. Others argue that the rubber is not worth more than 300 points, if that. All authorities seem to overlook the Im portant fact that overbidding one's hand and seriously penalizing one self in the hope to save the rubber Ty no means insures its being saved. Frequently it only postpones it. - The very next deal often results In its being won, and the winners coming off with flying colors because of the risks run in order to prevent it. Discretion should be observed in everything. f site ' V)fWs 1 1 6 7?- &ZSZ JjTSZj? 2"?yC?rc?5r& J5r&j7Z loaded on the handsomer suits' for formal wear the sort of suit you put on with your very bst ostrich trimmed hat, white kid gloves and cloth-topped buttoned boots for -afternoon occasion of importance. Even the simpler suits for running about town on shopping or business errands are trimmed with braid and em broidery. Trimming, you know, is at its apex of favor thisear, appearing on everything. So many of the authoritative Paris i moaeia are gray mat gray is a lore- Kmbroidery in silk or wool is fairly I gone conclusion for winter tailor- mades. All, shades of gray are used and trimmings are of gray braid, gray fur and self-tone embroidery. Some of these gray tailleurs from Paris are exquisitely dainty and one is sure they will all be snapped up by autumn brides, for nothing lovelier for going away costumes could be imagined. A little gray suit from Drecoll is especially appealing. The fitted Jacket has a peplum trimmed with vertical lines of gray fluted braid and there is a coat col lar of soft gray squirrel. .This suit has a new skirt, in three tiers, the overlapping tiers showing near the Trick 1 As B had bid a spade. A would lead the highest, and as it happens his only spade. -As the 2 of spades was with dummy and B himself held the 3 and 4, he would thus read the situation and mark Z with the ace, jack and 7 of the suit and his partner with no more. Being void of re-entry, he would see the hopelessness of establishing and bringing in his suit. However, he would play queen to the trick and Z. in accordance with the Bath coup would allow him the trick, figuring that he would eventually win two tricks in the suit - and effectually block it . For such players as 'may not be familiar with the Bath coup, I would explain that it consists in the play of a small card rather than the com mand, when., as fourth player, one holds ace, jack, etc. of the suit led and king or queen has lie en adversely led or played to the trick. In this case the play worked beautifully. B realized that no matter what spade he might next lead Z was bound to win two tricks in the suit, so though Rome Dlavers lacking the knowledge as to what other suit to lead might be Inclined to continue the suit lead, he ' felt his better polioy. was "to try some other suit. To his way of thinking any suit save "-.diamonds, which would be a lead up to dummy's strength.and therefore distinctly un wise, offered greater possibilities than the continuance of spades. He, there fore, led clubs, and as he held three clubs in sequence, the highest. Z fore saw that it was unncessary to lose a trick in the suit, so put up the ace. and at Tricks 3. 4. 5 and S proceeded to .lead his four hearts, taking care so to lead them as to be enabled to throw Tint Your Gray Hair? Trial Package Free! Just for a short time, in order to prove to many more thousands of women, that Brownatone is in fact the perfect lint for rrv. fnrfH streaked hair, the manufacturers of this really wonderful preparation will send a trial package free to those who will write at once. 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