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About The Sunday Oregonian. (Portland, Ore.) 1881-current | View Entire Issue (July 11, 1920)
THE SUNDAY O It EG ONI AX, PORTLAND, .TITLY 11,1920 5 FOR SPORT WEAR WOMEN ARE BORROWING GENEROUSLY FROM MEN'S IDEALS OF DRESS Riding Suit With Its Coat and Breeches, the Bathing Suit In Trunk-and-Tunic Style and .Overall' Garden Costume Go Towaitt So-called Emancipation. Km e'-ivX -ft , f, ( . m rrA 1. ' v xj? i-A i ! , c ft X " I lito h, r ' - ? -' 1 . t.vtit'1 x .it, , V 316 Most Useful 1 j Wool Jpax-t-JArjr: 26?S TAsy tell ftej fjif772ricxzgfi IS WOMAN growingr mora mannish in dress? You think so, surely, when you make a study of the new sport costumes the riding suit with its neat coat and conspicuously revealed breeches, the bathing- suit, built like a man's in trunk-and-tunic style, the overall garden and house working costume, the boyish middy for yachting, the golf outfit with nothing but a skirt to offset its man nish coat, hat and footwear, the top- I coat, essentially masculine in cut and collar. . For sport wear, at least, woman has borrowed generously from masculine ideals of dress but It takes more than sport wear to make up a masculine wardrobe! There are the frilly, fluffy organ dies for instance, the picture hats of shirred lace with nodding roses and ribbon streamers, the dinner gown with its decolletage and its little train, the velvets and furs of winter time and the kimono! Quite enough, to be sure, to prove to the alarmists who prophesy that woman is sacri ficing her sartorial birthright that nobody need worry greatly about the matter. Palo Coats Take Fucr. Much, much smarter than a knitted sweater for sport wear now is the polo coat of soft wool material. These coats are boyish In type, with regu lation coat sleeves, collar and lapels. They are comfortably loose all over and one slips Into and out of them with beautiful ease. And they are amazingly light scarcely heavier over the arm than a knitted sweater. They are worn in the piace of out door sweaters and the coat-fronts may be turned back, a loose belt holding the garment in place, or may be buttoned snugly and cosily up to the neck. Sweaters in the sleeve less sllpon style, and made of silk or Shetland wool in open stitch, are liked for tennis and boating, and for the house on cool mornings; but out-of- doors it Is the polo coat of soft wool or tweed that prevails. A very hand some coat Of the sort is of Irish tweed so soft and light that it can be crumpled in the hand like chiffon. This wonderful tweed is said to be over 100 years old. There is a new sport costume this summer. It is called the "emancipa tor" and indeed ladies of the Victo rian era would nave considered a female person very emancipated dangerously so to be sure! who would have donned such a costume even in the privacy of her own home. But the 1920 female person in an "emancipat or" could etroll all about town ana not make any particular sensation so accustomed now is everybody to bifurcated feminine garments. The emancipator, so-called, combines a very natty smock with a pair of neatly fitting breeches and it is built of linen in a rather dark shade brown seems to be the favorite color The smock falls Just short of the knee and is belted trimly at the waistline It has long sleeves with buttoned cuffs that may be rolled back on the arm and breast pockets with buttoned flaps. It closes at the neck with button-and-loop slash like a slip-on middy but there is a smart little col lar faced with white pique which may be turned down or made to stand up in specially trig style. The breeches are fitted tightly five inches below the knee and above the knee are very full like riding breeches. For moun tain climbing, camping and general country wear this "emancipator cos tume is admirable. But one would hardly wear it in town unless she longed to be conspicuous. Linen laed for Riding Salt. There is a kinship between the new "emancipator" and the riding cos tume. In fact one suspects that the former was patterned after the latter because you know riding suits ar so tremendously smart and becoming and so few women, comparatively may possess them. "Now any woman who likes the lines of belted coat and fitted breeches can have an "etnanci pator." When it comes to a question of real style, however, there is no comparison between the two cos tumes. There is an aristocracy, a on what English women have for years called a "country suit," a rather mannish, perfectly plain coat and skirt suit of soft, lightweight wool material, which is smart enough for traveling and town wear, yet rough-and-ready enough for a cross-country tramp according to the accessories worn with it. Such a suit is so use f Jl an adjunct to the wardrobe that American women are wondering how they ever got along without it all these years. The costume looks best with rather mannish accessories in its croes-country guise. It demands a simple, smart sailor or trimmed hat, heavy gloves, a soft silk skirt and necktie and low-heeled sport footwear. Buttoned spats of a shade harmonizing with the suit give a sne- ially smart finishing touch to such costume this season. These spats re worn with low-heeled sport ox fords, not with the dainty high-hccled umps of formal occasions, and you cannot use your winter spats, of pearl gray or beige cloth, fitted to liigh- eeled pumps, with your sturdier port oxfords, which demand a larger isie in spats. The correctness of a uttoned spat or a buttoned boot de pends on its perfect fit over anklo and instep. Pleated Sport Skirts Graceful. Though the pleated skirt hardly nters into a discussion of mannishly inclined sport togs, it Is too charm ing to be left out in any chat about sport wearables. These skirts are xceedingly graceful, whether they are box pleated and flare at the hem are machine pleated and cling about the limbs like drapery. One does not wear a petticoat under the soft, light pleating. Knickers are the thing, for the slightest rumpling of petticoat would spoil the graceful. clinging lines of the skirt. Grandma would have considered a woman very emancipated who would Ve dared to wear this costume (1645) Back in the 70s, but woman is really emancipated now where lothes are concerned, anyway and may wear whatever she fancies, whether it has a skirt or not. This ew sport costume, called the "eman- ipator," by the way, Is delightfully comfortable and is exactly the thing for vigorous outdoor sports. Or you may wear it indoors, likw an artist's mock, and the belted tunic can be onned over a skirt If desired. Tunic nd breechesare of brown linen with brown bone buttons. No woman can get along now with- ut an informal tailored suit of this type (916). In America It is called a sport suit, in England a "country uit. The best models are of very sort, ligntwelght wool in dark, neu ral mixtures, and every detail of ailorlng is correct. Such a suit is kept as carefully pressed as a man keeps his clothes, and the simple suit s accompanied by a plain sport hat and silk or linen shirt with soft tie. Low-heeled sport shoes or tan oxfords with buttoned spats and, of course, heavy, mannish gloves complete tho costume. The perfect grace is one feature of popularity about these machine leated skirts which are so much the vogue just now. Another feature is the comfort of a skirt that one may step out In freely or jump across brook, or climb upon a flat rock. Yet the pleated skirt appears narrow and clings to the figure very gracefully. This skirt (1647) is of tan serge with brown stripes and the blouse is. of beige crepe de chine. 1 ' I A jy--'"-.-.riv--.-w:---.. , : ;.:. ,v.,.? .-., . . . ; .-. , " . ' . ' a . 3 4 fe -f Z " y ' t , ' 1 ft v- , A r - " ? jl V- X r vv 4- v s 3 ' ; 'fwfiv! 'Is , I " 'S " i - ' i i 111 . - v jX : - J rm g ' ' " i I V " 'r "-v ""'Nil i ' swaf J Jf " ' , V i i-n- ,isid$$ , 1 'rws 1 i V ; 0 - xli ? ' ' v 1 ' I lls! II if f - -If 1 r " 1' . VV ; 1 : " s - i ' ? ' . ' ' ' 4 Itinerant Vendors Beguile Women With Wares. Eraliroldered and I.nrr-Trimmert I.uneh Sets and Tea JVapklna Often Prove an Irresistible Lure. w HY is it that embroidered and lace-trimmed lunch sets, tea napkins and their like, spread out on a hotel veranda by an itinerant ven dor have such an irresistible fascina tion for women? The same articles displayed in the shops, would be passed by day after day unless ther was particular need of somethin; in that line. But the dark-eyed Ar menian who trudges up to the hotel with a shabby, bulging suitcase, rare ly departs without dollars bulging In a coat pocket. Once the buying starts, every worn an on the veranda has to have some thing, and so appealing is the shrewd salesperson that goods which are reaiiy not worm wnne or at so low prices as could be found in the shops, back in town, are seized up as wonaerrui Bargains. Yes, madam," admits the sad-eved peddler patiently, "I do all d:U hand work myself in the winter time every bit myself." And yon- believe her. though you know very well no single human being could have ac complished the mountain of work tne hemstitching, embroidery and yaros or nana crocnet lace, in even a twelvemonth. It is a wise woman who looks very carefully at quality o nandwork and quality of material before investing lavishly in norifiioH- about cloths and doilies. Too often the work is done on coarse cotton stuff though the vendor assures you 11 is pure linen. Where on earth could the busy embroiderer have obtained so much pure linen during the last rew years when the government took every bit of it for war purposes and you and I could not even buy enough for a centerpiece? Now, linen is available again, but not all these summer-peddler articles are made of it. Much better to buy good linen yourself and make the lunch-cloth, doilies or tea napkins on the veranda, as summer needlework. Some of the handsomest summer evening wraps are of black satin or black taffeta with- trimming of black lace flouncing. A wrap of black taf feta is embroidered in huge disks of silver. A deep cape collar of pleated black lace falls from the .back and cascades down the front. Another wrap, of black satin, has wing sleeves of black chantilly. which drapes down In graceful panels at the sides. A girdle of green beads holds in the wrap at a low waistline. Sash ribbons are gorgeous this sea son and some of them are so expen sive that a sash casts more than the frock it adorns. There are wide, soft satin ribbons, each side a different shade. There are metal brocade rib bons with silver and gold embroidery on a black or white ground wonder ful with black or white dance frocks. There are sash ribbons of supple taf feta, or rich, thick faille, and not the least charming are the warp printed ribbons and the gay Roman stripe enects. distinction, a formality about the rid ing suit which the "emancipator" can never hope to equal. This summer's riding costume Is of linen, the fabric on which fashion smiles especially just now for all out-door wear. There are very handsome suits of heavy cream linen, which are worn with brown straw riding hats and brown leather boots, and there are suits of gray, linen, worn witfe black, hats $.nX boots. The most popular riding suit, however, is of tan linen which seems to show the dust of the road less than other shades. Shoulders, sleeves and waistline of the riding coat are very trim, and also the breeches where they taper below the knee. A decided flare in the skirt of the coat emphasizes to advantage the trim ness of the other details. American women have come to rely, J Don't Ride Them With a Veil; Re move Them With Othlne Double Strength. - This preparation for the removal of freckles Is usually so successful In removing freckles and giving a clear, beautiful complexion that it is sold under guarantee to refund the money if It fails.- Don't hide your freckles under a veil: get an ounce of Othine and re move them. Even the first few appli cations should show a wonderful im provement, some of the lighter freck les vanishing entirely. Be eure to ask the druggist for the double strength Othine; it is this that is eold on the money-back guarantee. Hove it applied at your; favorite hardrofyrjr At leading UrudMoror zpc a uoiiie 11 vy- WJ aX I I I 1 imLfmtim MW!i&& a ' 'fr'k'A;,?-.:, A"' HAIR?", " " 11 l A REM ED y It- -': I ."Si m 1 : .. if nVF.RY nTRU OR WOMAN who suffers with dan- --'druff. with falling, lifeless hair, or with scurfy oc ecrematous scalp should read the letter below. It wa3 written by Mary Laux Beckwith, General Secretary of the Child Conservation League of America, to Mr Beriault. Not only was the testimonial entirely unso licited but Mr. Beriault, nor' any other member of his organization, has never had the pleasure of meeting the lady. Woman's Temple, . 20S W. Monroe St., Mr. J. B. Beriault, Chicago, 111. Seattle, Wash. My Dear Sir: It gives me great pleasure to tell you how perfectly. the "Hair-Bitters" have done their work on my scalp. The dandruff, has entirely disappeared and a most pronounced growth of new hair is appearing while the tendency to falling hair is en tirely overcome. I feet that it will nil a pressing need and wish for you all the success which this splendid preparation ught to bring you. MARY LAUX BWHWlin, General Secretary Child ConsepraiiohLeagueofCAmerica. BeriwU' HAIR-3itersfi3 .different from every other preparation intended fora similar purpose. It is non-alcoholic contains no poison of any kind an4 is most pleasant to use. Its effects on even the most severe, stuboprn cases of scalp afflic tions (non Wood-seated) are truly wonderful, Beriault's HAIR-Bitters Is positively guar anteed. Ask your hair-dresser to apply it. Use it at home. The results win astound you, no matter how skeptical you may be. Sold by lead ing druggists at $2 and $3 the bottle. If youn dealer has none in stock write to Beriault Mfg,. Co., 1104-14 Broadway, Seattle, U. S. A. e rof-Cr'r the most severe, stubborn cases of scalp attlic- 4 ro&rorc, m h. w. v a. - - - m k n k .."kMr -mum m k i .a. - a w m. V i; 1.J it Vi'-hmt,,,,,, - - r -ri-n M (-'n j , tr- - i'-ir m. Httr-'- -- r-- -,i , mf' ' fK .-I .f-. J I- -i ( jn-.v'v.-T'. :r'--v'" Net Flouncings Fascinating and Little Makes Skirt. Interesting; Sport mouse lIade En. tirrly of Kihbous. THK net flouncings covered with narrow net pleatings or ruffles are fascinatingly pretty and feminine, and very little flouncing makes a skirt. Two yards of the 40-inch wide flouncing will be plenty and most women will get quite a strip off the top of the skirt at that. Pick out a dainty net blouiC in the waist de partment, buy two yards of net flouncing with tiny pleated ruffles all the way up. Hake the flouncing into a. gathered skirt and behold an en chanting summer afternoon frock. All you , have to do is to add a sash. An Cocoanut Oil Fine for Washing Hair If you want to keep your hair in good condition, be careful what you wash it with. Moat soaps and prepared shampobs contain too much alftali. This dries the scalp, makes the hair brittle and is very harmful. Mulsified cocoanut oil shampoo, which is pure and en tirely greaseless, is much better than anything else you can use for sham pooing, as this can't possibly Injure the hair. Simply moisten your hair with water and rub it in. One or two teaspoonfuls will make an abund ance of rich, creamy lather and cleanses the hair and scalp thor oughly. The lather rinses out easily and removes every particle or dust, dirt, dandruff and excessive oil. The hair dries quickly, and evenly, and it leaves it fine and silky, bright, fluffy and easy to manage. You can set Mulsified cocoanut oil shampoo at most any drug store. It Is very cheap, and a few ounces is enough to last everyone in tiia family for months. Adv extra drop skirt of plain net will! soften the lines and make the frock still more dainty. An interesting sport blouse is en tirely made of ribbon. Heavy white grosgrain ribbon was used and the strips were put together with her ringbone stitvh, done with white silk floss. The blouse is a straight kimono model with short sleeves and no seam at the shoulder. A crosswise band of the ribbon holds in the straight blouse around the hip, the band fast ening at one side with a pearl buckle. The neck is square and is button holed with the silk across front and Feminine Charms were never before as Irresistible as in this season's flimsy materials. It 's vduring this season that Delatone will be doubly appreciated by pre tty women; is a safe and sure preparation for the removal of hair from the neck, face or under-artns. Beauty specialists recommeod it be causa t leaves the kin clear, firm nd perfectly smooth, Delatooe is aasust. to apply simple d- recttona with every jar. cAt Any Druggist's or Drpmrtmcnl iiormt OHEHHS1D I "fA nr, back, strips of narrower ribbon with loops, depending, outlining the side ofc the square. Sure Way to Get Rid of Dandruff There ia one sure way that never fails to remove dandruff completely, and that is to dissolve it. This de stroys it entirely. To do this, just get about four ounces of plain, ordinary liquid arvon; apply it at night when retiring; use enough to moisten the scalp and rub it in gently with the finger tips. By morning most, if not all, -of your dandruff will be gone, and three or four more applications will complete ly dissolve and entirely destroy every single sign and trace of it. no matter how much dandruff you may have. You will find, too, that all itching and digging of the scalp will stop in stantly and your hair will be fluffy, lustrous, glossy, silky and soft, and look and feel a hundred times better. You can get liquid arvon at any drug store. It Is Inexpensive, and four ounces is all you will need. This sim ple remedy has never been known to fail. Adv. To Keep Straightest, Unruliest Hair in Curl The straightest, contrariest hair can be kept in curl, even in the hottest or dampest weather, by such simple and harmless means, that the use of the drying, singeing, blistering curling iron is altogether inexcusable. One need only get a few ounces of plain liquid silmerin from the druggist and apply a little to the hair befor doing it up. The result is quite remarkable. The hair is delightfully wavy and beautifully glossy, without be Ing in the least greasy, gummy or streaked. The effect lasts very much longer than where curlers alone or waving irons are used. The sHmcrine is best put on with a clean tooth brush, drawing this through the hair from crown to tip, preferably after dividing it into strands. The ap plication seems to gradually improve the texture and Aealth, of the hair, Adv. WOMEN OF MIDDLE AGE May Pass the Critical Period Safely and Comfortably by Taking Lydia E. Pinkham's Vegetable Compound. Summit, N. J. "I hare tateii Lydia . Pinkham's Vegetable Com pound during Change ol ILilo and I think it is good remedy in such' a condition. I could not digest my food and had much pain and burning in mv stomach after meals. I could not sleep, had backache, and worst of all wer the hot flashes. I saw in the papers about Vegetable Compound so I tried it. . Kow I feel all right and can work better. You have my permission to rublish this letter." V I r. T r n t a Koppl, 21 Oak Ridge Ave., Summit, 1 Jf. J. f If you have warning- symptoms such J as a sense of suffocation, hot flashes, 1 headaches, backache, dread of im- pending evil, timidity, sounds in ths ears, palpitation of the Heart, sparks before the eyes, irregularities, consti pation, variable appetite, weakness,' inquietude and dizziness, get a bottle) of Lydia E. Pinkham's Vegetable Compound and begin taking the medi cine at once. We know it will help, you a it did Mrs. HoppL Phone your want ads to The Orego nian. Main 7070; Automatic Sn-. mm 'f -i la
