THE SUNDAY OREGONIAN, PORTLAND, MAY 23, 1920
EOVELY FROCKS OF SOFT SILK AtfD VOILE
GO WITH DROOPING LEGHORN PICTURE HATS
New Sport Sailor of Black Milan Has Brim Narrow at Back and Scoops Down in Front Upturned Tuck
Setat Hipline Breaks Plain Gathered Skirt.
irrsk Xr At & r H IX wf
i filw.- r- Vvi II 'kf- t' smA
iMti'h k flii 4v-, fell -
I Vl '"CrVi-- lllV If 4ri , x f Y l
" 1-4, I'd ff.J? ? S.. Ji .
I 3t 4 4 - ? 1 M Ui 1 ol I f "f I
tKfe r :i
1 1 E,ar - v . - ..... .... i ... i i
i ? l v i ict- r --nil
ri M fc a. -.-.v , v. 3 l I
nrnr tITH these gay 1S70 chapeaux,
which are being revived just
' " now, one must wear the frill
lest, most feminine frocks of taffeta,
organdie, dotted swiss or flowered
voile the last named material dup
licating the flowered muslins that
grandma used to wear. Nobody wears
muslin now, but the flowered voiles
with their quaint, lovely patterns re-,
produce the effect very nicely. And
, of course the more ruffles the better
to carry out the effect.
For women who do not look well in
'ert hats and ruffles, and are wise
nough to avoid them, there are love-
h y frocks of soft silk and voile with
Iniore clinging, draped lines. With
Ithese go drooping picture hats of leg
horn and of wired lace trimmed with
'ostrich or roses. And for all women
re etunntng tailored frocks of linen
the fabric of fabrics this season
cood looking frocks trimmed With
eoutache braid, tucks and rows of
buttons. These will be accompanied
y smart, simple sport hats of fine,
supple straw banded with grosgrain
ribbon. A new sport sailor of black
xnilan has a brim that is very narrow
At the back and scoops down at the
front. The grosgrain bow Is tied
straight across the front.
Frills upon frills appear In this
ummer day frock (653), of pale pink
handkerchief linen with Its flower
girdle of ribbon. Nol a frill is gath
ered, however. They are all cut on
the circular, as dressmakers say, and
ach circular frill is bound with pale
lavender handkerchief linen. The
flowers at the belt are made of pink
nd lavender ribbon and there are
narrow bands and bows of lavender
ribbon around the elbow sleeves. The
ekirt has a deep hem turned up on
the outer side and bound with lav
ender.
A new way to make the summer
frock is with a little bolero jacftet
like this (421 ), the waist and skirt
embroidered to show beneath the
Jacket. This frock is built of crepe
la. guerre, a dainty new summer fab
ric and the embroidery is done with
Mack and white floss, giving an ef
fect of ribbon passing through
crashes. Rather odd. and quite new
is the upturned tuck set at the hip-
Itne. It breaks the plain, gathered
ekirt and sets off the embroidery
above and below the belt.
Kere is a summer frock (42$), that
will please all women because of its
daintiness combined with really prac
tical qualities. The material is soft
white silk Jersette new this year
and the embroidery is done with black
and white silk floss. The gathered
sloping tunic, the draped sash-ends
or shall one call them necktie ends?
and the draped re vers and collar
are ail simple in style, yet combine
in an effect of perfect grace. A
dosen or so small white buttons in a
straight line give smartness to the
kimono sleeve.
Cartridge Silk Now Sold
for Tailored Suits.-
Clotfc Mnofncturi In Great Qau
tirlr for Government la 1m Demand.
TlTARDS and yards of the excellent
X material called cartridge silk are
being sold over the shop counters now
and women are triad to get it tor
tailored suits and, other types ot cos
tumes.
Cartridge slllt was manufactured In
frreat quantities for the government
during the war and it is an. entirely
new fabric, as far as the civilian pub
lic is concerned. It Is an exceedingly
strong fabric and according to war
reiuii"ments will meet tensile
strength of from SO to 140 pounds in
either direction. It will take a strong
pull from a protruding twig or bit
of barbed wire to tear cartridge
cloth.
u Jr. ".
woman for her virtues you may be
certain that It is another way of say
ing that she is ugly.
If you want to love) women begin
by spending money.
Women who remember shop signs
and trademarks make good wives.
Pride goes before a fall, especially
in beautiful women.
Women and mountains should be
looked on at a distance.
Women fall in love with their pro
tectors; men with women.
Men who neither brag nor flatter
need not fear being loved by women.
Men who like to take photos with
their wives are henpecked. -
'Tis women who know they are ugly
that powder their faces.
Women admire women of their own.
type.
" The secret of winning the woman
who Jilts you is perseverance.
Women understand men; those who
understand women are also women.
Poisonous flies carry shiny wings;
bad women pretty faces.
Men laugh with theln hearts, women
only with their mouths.
Pongee Quite In Vogue.
For blouses and separate skirts,
natural color pongee Is .having quite
a vogue this season both for grown
ups and .children. This material
washes well, its color makes it very place. London Times.
serviceable, and it is. so light in
weight that it is a good warm weath
er fabric Smocks or middies of pon
gee may be worn with plaited skirts
of self fabric, with-white tub skirts
or with skirts of novelty plaid or
striped silk. Heavy white crepe de
chine is another material that is suit
ed to all ages and it also is employed
for very serviceable blouses, smock
and middles this season. Crepe de
chine has taken on a new lease of life,
apparently. Not in years have so
many smart separate skirts and really
dainty frocks of this material been
shown.
Veils Deemed Important.
Veils are important this season.
They are worn very generally and in
many ways. With a toque they may
flow, long or short, turned right back
from the brow or falling Just over
the eyes. The effect of the veil Is
graceful, but it .risks being a little
too picturesque to look really wall.
The Frenchwoman observes restraint
in the use' of veils and knows Just
when her veil should be long or short
so as to be in accord with her cos
tume. To wear a long flowing lace
veil with a stiff tailor made is scarce
ly correct, but a short draped veil in
lace the same color as the toque looks
welL With a taffeta -or foulard dress
the long flowing veil Is not out of
M life
99
Beautiful
Shades
At Your Dealers
0'
K THE many interesting features
In connection with declarer's
play, there Is perhaps none more
Interesting or which calls for greater
Judgment- or discretion than finesse.
An established suit from the start
is the exception rather than the rule.
Generally one or more rounds must be
played and often one or more finesses
made before this end Is attained. The
better, therefore, to capture an ad
verse high card or cards of a suit and
so establish it without loss, or at
least at the minimum loss, it often
becomes necessary to lead the suit
twice or oftener from the same hand,
finessing in the other. When this
hand proves to be the dummy hand
and it is void or nearly void of re
true, and the adversary holding the
king should undoubtedly have held
it up if possible. The declarer, how
ever, took the only chance which of
fered of the clubs making, and what
ever might have been the result, his 1
play and the principle governing It
were absolutely correct.
If players improve the only chance
which offers of accomplishing a cer
tain well-mapped-ou scheme, they
have nothing to regret, aside from
their disappointment at loss, if the
Play goes wrong and the scheme falls
of accomplishment. And right here I
would say that if players generally
would cease to bewail their poor
holdings, and concentrate upon the
endeavor to save every trick possible.
while to be sure their score might-
show but little, they would at least
have the consciousness - of having
I
Channell Chemical Co, Distributors, Chicago, Toronto, London, Paris
For AO
Furniture
and
Woodwork
olish
30c to $3
Sizes
At AH
Dealers
entries, the declarer from the start done the best possible with very poor
must endeavor to proviae it witn sui
ficient re-entries as that it again may
secure the lead
material. Such players in a sense are I as any . of the other missing cards. I leads to the first trick is warned
deserving of greater congratulations I W'th such holding, if queen or Jack, I such combination, the adversary who
With certain combinations In the
two hands (to be hereafter given) a
finesse is almost always advisable.
unless the suit is so long as to make
it otherwise. When a sound finesse
is unsuccessful, it is due to the par
ticular distribution of the cards, and
not, as one may be Inclined to think.
to lack of Judgment. However, finesse
in common with all plays in auction.
calls for a thorough understanding of
the subject and of the particular situ
ation and well deserves careful at
tention.
A finesse may be made somewhat
more 'freely in trumps than in plain
suits for the reason that commanding
trumps are bound to make. At the
same time it would be unwise to
finesse in trumps if It is known or
suspected the adversary can ruff a
suit, or, more especially if a cross
ruff is imminent. It behooves one in
such case to win the immediate trick
and at once take as many rounds ot
trumps as are needed to exhaust the
adversaries. A finesse under such
conditions might result in an extra
trick, but on the other hand, it could
easily mean the loss of several tricks.
At a no-trump declaration the de
clarer should studiously avoid a
finesse which, if unsuccessful, would
let in the adversary who has an es
tablished suit. The finesse in such
case should be taken against the part
ner of such player If it is known he
has no more left of the suit and so
will be unable to put the holder again
in the lead. This, as can be seen, will
reduce the chances of the suit being
brought in to the minimum, making
it dependent in fact upon the holder
of the suit himself holding a re-entry.
Declarer should also retrain from
taking a finesse which, if unsuccess
ful, would block his suit and admit of
the adversary taking out the hand s
only re-entry. Such condition applies
more particularly, ot course, to the
dummy hand and to situations like
the following: Declarer gets the bid
at no trumps on a holding of
v 4 r
A Q
A K J 8
A 6 5 3 2
The adversary to lead leads a fourth
best heart, and dummy shows
.. v A K.
4k J 10 5 4 3
'6 2
8 7
Declarer sees the club suit is the
suit to endeavor to establish, bo, hav
ing won the heart trick with the
dummy king, he at once leads the
club. His own two clubs, ace and
queen, block the suit in dummy's
hand, therefore, while under ordinary
conditions he would undoubtedly
finesse the queen, re realises he must
play the ace and endeavor to force
the king on the second round, thus
establishing the suit, while the dummy
still has the heart re-entry. Accord
ingly he plays the ace, next leads the
queen, which forces the king and the
suit becomes established. Should he
play the queen and the finesse go
wrong, as in this case It would do,
the adversary winning with the king
would at once take out the dummy's
heart re-entry and his euit would
never make. As it Is the adversary's
worst play would be to lead the heart,
so he shifts the lead In the hope to
reach strength in his partner's hand.
Whatever he may lead, however, de
clarer Immediately gets in and leads
the heart, dummy secures the lead
and makes his suit.
One may argue that If the king of
clubs had not been played to the sec
ond round of the suit the declarer's
pains would have gone for naught,
and It would have still been impos
sible for the clubs to make. . This is
than their more fortunate adver- or both, be in one hand, and ace in the
saries who make a big score for the other, queen or Jack, ae the case may
reason that with their particular be, should be led 'towards the ace In
holding they could not do otherwise, the hope to tempt the king. If this
But to go back to the subject under 1 card be held by second player.
discussion: When the declarer holds I Whether or not. however, king be
r. either hand a single guarded honor I nlavert hV sennnd nlaver. declarer
(not the ace) in any suit, he should I hould put up the ace this is assum-
think carefully and well before ven
turing a finesse In another suit
which, if unsuccessful, would allow
the right-hand adversary to lead
througn this honor. Were he to fin
ing of cor.rse that second player does
not renounce to the trick, thus mark
ing king twice guarded with the plac
er to one's left. In such case declarer
should take the immediate trick or
esse and the finesse fall, the entire not M , hla jud&Tnent may 6eem be8t.
suit could easily be made against
him.
When declarer has a strong hand
and the dummy unusually weak, it is
better generally that the lead come
from the dummy. A fincste. there
fore, should so be taken as that if It
loses, declarer will be fourth player to
the next trick
As a rule a finesse should not be
Discards are effective at times in.
enabling one to Judge as to Which
hand may best venture the finesse, the
Inference being that a player who
freely discards a certain suit has
nothing to protect in the suit, there
fore that the missing high card or
cards are with the remaining adver
sary. For the very reason that de-
taken on the first round of a suit that f 'arer wiu ""y assume this to be
may be taken on the second, or on the
second round that may be taken on
the case, an adversary is Justifiable at
times in discarding a suit in which he
ih. y.ir-A in it is w.n is well protected, in the hope to tempt
usually to deW a finesse a late as I tn declarer to finesse to his (the ad-
possible. This is not always so, how
ever, and there are times when It 1
imperative to take all the trick3 in
Fight and then throw the balance of
the tricks. This
ning to shelter,"
cially to cases wherethe adversaries
have an established suit and both of
them have the ability to lead the suit.
Finesse is governed to a consider
able extent by the state of the score.
It would never be right, for instance,
versary's) advantage. The discard of
high or even moderately high cards
points absolutely as a rule to which
adversary holds' protected honors in a
known as "run- I suit, and the adversaries when possi-
and arjnlles esoe- I hie should avoid such discards, though
it is eviaent iney win oe unaDie to
win a trick in the suit. The import
ance of correct discards, and of all
players carefully watching and draw.
ing Inferences from discards, cannot
be too strongly emphasised. The first
to take a finesse when game is in I Is of little less importance than a first
sicht. First land your game, then I lead.
take your chance cn a big score. So, I One of the best known and most
also, it would never be right to ven- I usual finessing combinations is th
ture a finesse when the finesse, if un- I major tenace, ace. queen. If there two
successful, would defeat your con- I cards are in one hand, the lead should
tract, or game, Vut when, failing to always be made from the remaining
Unease eitner or both these ends I hand, and queen played to the trick.
would be attained. On the other hand, I While to be sure queen often falls to
when assured first of your contract, 1 king, this insures the best chance of
Ihen of game, take any finesse which I the queen winning, save of course I
if successful will add materially to I those fortunate cases where the suit
your score, possibly result In your I i3 opened by the adversary and the
making a little or even a grand slaa. 1 player holding the combination
though which, if . unsuccessful, may fourth player to the trick. In such
result in. your losing all the remain- case both of the high cards make, as
ing tricks. if jack or lower card be played by
When hesitating' as to the advlsa- third Dlaver. aueen wins the trick- and
bility of a flaesse, consider what ace holds command, while if king be
should be the usual distribution of tage of being led" to when holding
me caraa ana 04 guiaea accordingly. 1
Bear in mind that principles and rules
are founded upon usual, not unusual
distributions, and that while devel
opments may be such as that no rule
will hold good, and one must rely
solely upon one's judgment, a strict
application of the rules under ordi
nary conditions will enable one to win
much more often than the reverse.
Therefore, if holdirg nine cards of a
suit, lnoludin? both ace end king.
though lacking the queen, consider
what should be tha usual distribution
of the suit. Naturally, two Cards to
each adversary. Take no chance.
therefore, but come out with one ot
the commanding cards, and If botn
adversaries follow to the trick, with
the other. Do not . risk allowing a I
single guarded queen to win. - A
queen, you must bear in mind, calls
for two smaller cards in order to be
guarded, and if fourth player holds
queen thus guarded, it will hf good
for a trick in any event. Jsot so.
however, if it be but once gu&red. A
king, on the btner hand, needs but
cne card in order to be guarded.
therefore, if youaold a nin-card suit.
Including ace . and other bigh cards.
though lacking the . king; generally
It would be unwise to finesse in a
suit of ten cards, including ace, queen
and jack, though lacking the king, as
unless -one adversary is void of the
suit, one of them holds a singleton,
and this card may as easily be king
Because of the very obvious advan
queen is in command.
played by third player, ace wins and
against leading an ace-queen suit.
unless at a trump declaration one is
very long In the suit, when it is usu
ally well to make sure of the ace, or
when at a no-trump declaration, it
stands for one's long suit, the suit
which one wishes to establish. Even
so it is often well if the suit can be
led by one's partner through the pos
sible king in the declarer's hand, but
In the event the partner has not btf:.
it - is just a chance as to which su.
will enable him to secure xhe lead.
is doubtful if he will lead the particu
Moreover, even if he does get in, it
lar suit if the leader himself has not
made a bid and so indicated it- The
risks, therefore, which one entails In
the effort to have the sui. led by one's
partner'often counterbalance the dis
advantage of opening the suit one's
self. At times, however, especially if
third player puts up a card that will
otherwise hold the trick, declarer is
forced to play the king, rather than
undergo the danger of being led
through and losing the king. With
it all, though there are some players
who are religiously opposed to lead
ing from such combination, and will
lead any other suit in preference.
In this connection I have in mind
a hand finely illustrating this princi
ple which I will give. in my next issue.
though it. takes me aside for the time
being from the main subject under
discussion, that of finesse.
plied Mr. Nexdor, cheerily. "1 only
came to ask if I might hang a picture
on the other end of the nail."
Neighbor Asks JPaor.
Pittsburgh Chronicle Telegraph.
Mr. and Mrs. Newbride had at last
obtained a villa in the suburbs, and
Mr. Newbride was hanging the pic
tures. There was a certain photograph
of his wife which he decided must go
up, but which was too small to sus
pend from the rail by a cord. He
thereupon got a substantial nail and
hammered it into the- wall. There
came a knock at the door.
'"It's Mr. Nexdor," ss.id his wife,
running to the window. "Tour ham
mering has disturbed him."
Mr. Newbride hastened to apolo
gize. "Oh. I don't mind the noise. re-
Concerning a Beautiful
Complexion (and an Unusual Powder)
called beauty but of all factors, the subtle charm of a beautiful complexion
is easily first. 4,
Have a complexion that invites the most critical f?aie a skin radiantly
beautiful in sunlight or under the glare of bright, artificial light. Win tha
admiration that only a comDlexion which besneaka tha hloom nf vnurh ran
gain, by using sy a XX El TTH-NlvT.
COMPLEXION
POWDER
Its final touch imrjarts to the most Inwlv nntnrnl mmnlo
sab tie charm nd gives even rough skins a velvety smoothness that chal-
xdigt ciuse inspection.
Here'sFree Proof
That You Can Hear !
The wonderful Improved
A court Icon has now enabled
mere than 350,000 deaf people to
hear. We are sure it will do the
same for you; are so absolutely
certain of it that we are eaxer
to send you the
FAMOUS ACOtjSTlCOX
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The Joy of Hearingr Can Be
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The New Acousticon has Im
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You'll get it promptly, and if It
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not one cent.
Dictograph Prod acts Corporation
207 Ores on Bids;., Portland. Or.
r
T4 ft Touch"
White, Pink, Flesh, Cream and the Exquisite
New CARMEN BRUNETTE Shade
50 Cents Everywhere
Trikl f as The new .hade Carmen Brunette
3 ll llvr ha. proved bo popular we know
you would like to try it. Send 12 cents to cover portage and
packing and we'll aend you the bandy pane ixe box con.
taming two or three weeks' supply aad a mirror. Or we'll
end any other shade preferred.
Staff ord-MIUer Co., St. Loots, Mo,
Doctor Tells How to Strengthen
Eyesight 50 Per Cent in One
y Week's Time in Many Instances
ratine or heavy linen but it is really
silk and has an advantage over or
dinary silk in that it will : never
crack. It makes up into attractive
frocks as well as tailored garments
and several of thesje cartridge silk
frocks have been prettily embroid
ered in contrasting shades. A stun
nlng sport suit is hemstitched in old
blue and has a box coat with turned
back collar and cuffs of heavy cream
satin. A motor coat is trimmed with
many rows of narrow braid.
One of the most interesting models
in cartridge silk at a recent style ex
hibition was a Ming Toy suit (named,
of course, for the little Chinese
Undyed It looks verjr much like ! maiden in "East Its West"). Skirt and
A Free Prescription Toa Can Have Filled
aad Use at Home.
Philadelphia. Pa. To von wear srlasses?
Are vou a victim of eve strain or other
eye weaknesses? If se, you will be glad
to know that according to Dr. Lewis tbere
Is real hope for you. Many whose eyes
were failing; say they have had their eyes
restored throutpn the principle of this
wonderful free prescription. One man says,
after trying: ft: "I was almost blind ;
fritiM not ft? tA re it A t tl 2 . "Vow T fan
jacket were embroidered in, Chinese I read evervthinr without anv rlassee and
designs with colored raffia. The ! my eyes do not water any more. At night
nrkPt hfl hlar.lc atin 'mllnp nfl they; ouid pain dreadfully; now. they
. - . . : - i reel Tin an the time. it was ilk
cutis and below the edge of the skirt miracle toMe. A lady who-nsed It says:
peeped black satin pantaloons- the t "The atmosphere seemed hazy with or
straight, loose Chinese kind.
Proverbs of Women.
without glasses, but after using this pre
scription for fifteen days everything seems
clear. I can even read fine print without
g: lasses." It Is believed that thousands
who wear giassee can now discard them
In a reasonable time and multitudes more
THE following proverbs about worn- to be spared the trouble and expense of
en. current in Japan, compiled by aay BdwscHpt!onsmy be SSSS'.?roi?y
Aklmoto Shun,, are published in the benefited by following the simple rules.
TCew York Independent Here is the prescription: Go to any active
rsew xorit ina.penaeui. Arag store and get a bottle of Bon-Opto
"Newt women axe created to re- tablets. Drop one Bon-Opto tablet in a
, fourth of a triads of water and aliow to
P .VL wyw..i. I dissolve. With this liquid bathe the even
When marriage agents praise any two to four tunes daily, rou should
notice your eyes clear up percept !tly rlrht
rrom the
start and
Inflamraa
1 1 o n will
quickly
disappear.
if your
eyes are
bother-
l n r y o u,
even a lit
tle, take
steps to
save them
BOW be
fore ii fa
llll I I HIS I NISI t O A
Many hopelessly blind mfgrht have been
saved if they had cared for their eyes In
time. f
NOTE:' Another prominent phvslelan to
whom the above article was submitted,
said: "Bon-Opto is a very remarkable
remedy. Its constituent ingredients are
well known to eminent eye specialists and
widely prescribed by them. The manufac
turers guarantee it to strengthen eyesight
50 per cent in one week's time in many in
stances or refund the money. it can be
obtained from any good druggist and is one
of the very few preparations I feel should
be kept on hand for regular use in almost
every family." It la otd in this city by
all good druggists. Adv.
A Powerful Microscope
Will Show the Cause of Your
Hair and Scalp Troubles
The roots of the hair mjufft be examined
the cxacft cause of each particular trouble
muft be determined before the case
can be intelligently treated.
Prof. John H. Austin
( OF CHICAGO )
41 Tears a Bacteriologist, Hair and Scalp Specialist
Says that the use of dandruff cures, hair tonics, mange
cures, etc, without the proper advice, is like taking medicine
without knowing what you are trying to cure.
Free Microscopic Examination of the Hair and Scalp.
Find out what is causing that falling hair and dandruff.
(Women need not take down their hair)
Private Offices at the Owl Drug Co.
Broadway and Washington
Draws Like Hot
Flax-Seed Poultice
HEALS STUBBORN OT.T SORES
FROJl BOTTOM CP.
Just like a hot flax-seed poultice.
Allen's Ulcerine Salve draws out rol-
sons and germs from boils, sores and
wounds and Meals tnem irom the Dot.
torn up. It heals In one-third time that
common salves and liniments tales.
Allen's Ulcerine Salve is one of the
oldest remedies in America, and sine
1S69 has been known as tha onlv salva .
powerful enough to reacn cnronlc ul
cers and old sores of Ions standing,
because it Craws out the poisons and
beels from the bottom up. It seldom
leaves a scar, and relief Is usually
permanent. At all drugeiets or by
mail, 65c; book free. J. P. Allen Medi
cine Co. St. Paul, Minn.
Ira Davis, Avery, Texas, wrttes: "I
had a chronic sore on my foot for
years and doctors said it would never
heal without scraping the bone. One ,
box of Allen's Ulcerine Salve drew '
out pieces of bone and lots of pus, and
it heald up permanently." Adv.
Curl Hair This Way
and Keep It Healthy
It has been found that the dm of a
harmless fluid which druggists know as
'silmerine. will keep the straightest hair
in curl for the longest time, giving it ths
appearance of true naturalness, besides
keeping the hair softer and glossier than
possibls with the heated iron. Ths UQnid
J should be applied with a clean tooth
brush before doing up the hair, drawing
the brush through the hair from crown ts
tip-
The hair win be bean tl fairy wavy and
eurlin-g, and will lie easily and loosely on
the bead, as It should, considering its wel
fare from a hygienic standpoint. A few
ounces of liquid silmerine will last for
months and as It is really beneficial to the
hair, it should be generally adopted by the
fair sex. It will not spot or discolor scalp
or hair, nor leave any s-odaw-ent, greaas or
stickiness. Adv.
How You Can Make
Hairs Quickly Disappear
(Helps to Beaut)
Even a stubtxra -growth of hair wlU
quickly vanish from the face, neck or
arms after a single treatment with
delatone. To remove the hairs, make
a stiff paste with a little powdered
delatone and Water, apply to hairy
surface and after about 2 minutes rub
off. wash the skin and it will be left
free from hair fcr blemish. To avoid
l disappointment, be quite certain you
set ra&i delatone. -ixtv.
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