THE SUNDAY OREGONIAX, PORTLAND, MAT 23, 1920
0$Wff J':'x "in tem
z:. rVA bs J iA-x csk.' f
FANCY HATS LIKE GRANDMA WORE IN 70s,
WITH VEILS TRAILING BEHIND, REVIVED
Nodding Roses Are Brought Back by Fashions in Headgear Frock With Suggestions of Bygone Days Used
to Match Many Centennial Modes Are Revived.
I
f-rk V-- W 'A- r; t .1
yn v-" 4v 4fL. ' 1
A I h t, ,
ZT i v;(; " 'He
l 'r:?, Pgr-" . ! f
. a. f s- ,
5sd: , " t?jv Zi
I y ' f 'J " X ' Zz
- - "-r- i-zr, -
n ,(-.. -. -t-r-"A
fit J f;Kts
PROBABLiT mother can remember
how srrandma looked when she
cam home from the sreat Cen
tennial at Philadelphia, back la 1876
Just a hundred yeajra, then, from
the Immortal 1776, you know. Mother
wu probably a -very youns Stirl and
he ramembera the occasion because
of course her mother brought her
aomethlnar intensely thrilling- from-
the Centennial exhibition perhaps a
etrlna; of cut coral, or a photograph
album with plush covers and brass
lock and key, or a cunning- jewel case
with shells stuck all over the cover
rare treasures in those days.
Grandma, waa wearing a fetiff Bilk,
jacket effects, there are perlums and '
ruffles particularly ruffles. All re
vived from the very feminine styles
of the (rood old seventies! Lace is
one of the most notable revivals of
the period. Dolmans and scarfs are
revivals also. Those were the days !
when women never took any exercise I
except hitting croquet balls. Slippers
averaged about size 3 and S1 and
anything- larger than size 6 in a glove
was appalling. And with their tiny
waists, their little feet and hands
women, were exquisitely feminine and
appealing- to the sex that likes to be
protecting. But heroines of novels of
that day were always dissolving In
floods of tears or rushing about for
sal volatile Instead of forgetting
their troubles in a smashing game of
tennis or a brisk round of an 18-hole
golf course. The modern maid may
look like grandma In her saucy tilted
up haC tout she is not like her a bit.
If the modern maid could have been
there at the time of the sal-volatile
and flood of tears ehe would prob
ably have said contemptuously: "Oh.
buck uj grandma, forget him. Be a
sport."
Roses oil on Snsnjner Hats,
So long have roses been pasted or
embroidered flatly against hat crowns
and hat brims that now when they
are alloWed to nod again on stems,
they nod all the more merrily or so
it seems. A del'ghtful little 1370 hat
of leghorn has no crown at all just
a slight bulge in the straw over the
top of the head, the front of the brim
slanting down and hiding- the eyea.
and the baok tilted high above a
bandeau. Three French bine ribbons
are gathered on the brim, an inph or
two apart and at the front is a perky
little box of the rltbon with ends
that wind down under the brim and
thence back to the bandeau where
they bang in long stream era. Across
the top of the hat strays a bunch of
pink roses, stem and leaves included,
and one artful pink bud rests on the
ed?e of the torlm towand the front.
Equally coquetish but In quite a
different way is a lace-velled hat
that will carry grandma back years
and years if she happens to spy It.
It has no crown at all and is what
used to toe called a ptacque, or "flat-"
It rests on the top of the head, curv
ing down at the front and sides and'
tilting up preposterously but, oh, so
cffective at the back, above a ban
deau. On this ibandeau. directly at
the back, is a big rose that droops
over the hair and a cluster of roses
nestle against the turned-up brim on
the crown if there were any visible
crown to this hat. All over the hat
and the roses is draped a veil of black
chantilly lace. It droops over the
brim and adds mystery to milady's
eyes, and trails downward at the
back, quite to her waistline.
Feathers Lavishly l7seA.
Some of these tllted-up 1870 hats
have ostrich massed under the raised
brim against the bandeau, and more
ostrich tumbling over the crown. One
such hat is of leghorn, with pink
ostrich at the back and bands of
French blue picot ribbon across the
front of the hat passing under the
brim. Another adorable hat is of
white horsehair straw with daffodil
yellow ostrich and bands of black
rirebon across the front.
One must do the hair high to wear
these tllted-up hats, and there must
be clusters of puffs at "the aek to
support the bandeau. Nevertheless
the ears are quite covered and the
hair hides the temples and part of
the cheeks also.
That grandma knew a great deal
about coquetry, and not a little about
dash, is proved by these 1870 chapeaux
that have been revived for this 1320
summer. Here is a typical hat of the
70s. reincarnated by a famous mil
liner, and the style has become the
rage- The gay little hat (1339) is
made of wired black tulle and deep
pink roses and all over hat and roses
is draped black chantilly lace. The
lace droops over the brim to shadow
the eyes and trails down at the back
in a long streamer that can te twisted
around the throat.
Right merrily nod millinery roses
that are permitted Memi and leaves,
again in natural effect. For a long
time roses have been plastered
against hats and it is good to see
them arranged in this true-to-nature
fashion once more. Here is a daBliing
little 1870 hat U243) in the Watteau
style, made of leghorn and trimmed
with French blue ribbon. Pink roses
stray over the crown and nestle on
the brim and on the bandmn that
tilts up the hat at the 'hack. The rib
bon passing backward and under the
brim at either side Is a characteristic
style feature of 1870 headgexr.
Plenty of dash about this little hat
120S) which is a modification of the
TVatteau shape, a revival of 1S70
modes. The hat is made of shiny
black mllan and most of its trimming
Is at the back where yards and yards
of Fhiny black ribbon are looped and
puffed t$ fill the space between the
bandeau and the tilted-up brim. A
hns-e hlark paradise feather slanting
rakishly both way's at once is poised
at the right side, giving incalculable
style and personality to the small hat.
SMALL BISQUE FIGURES
ARE FOR TALCUM POWDER
Dainty Little Women Would Rather Trust Fate to These Than to
Grinning "Billiken.'
dress, pulled back in the skirt and
puffed out into an enormous bustle.
The waist fitted like a glove and a
waistline was something to boast of
then I can tell you. Twenty inches
was considered rather too big for
fashion! The waist buttoned straight
down the front and had a square neck
with fringed-out ruching of the silk
all around and within this was
pleated white ruching. The sleeves
were skin tight but flared below the
elbow and there was quite a space of
bare arm between the flowing- sleeve
and the rfhort white glove. Grand
ma had a little parasol she called it
a sunshade and her hat was almost
exactly like one of the dashing tilted-uD-at-th.e-ba.ok.
afXairs they, are' wear
ing thi spring- Of 1920. The only dif
ference waa. that grandma's hair was
not pulled, down over her ears but
was drawn back and upward, to show
them, and more than likely she wore
pendant earrings set with cameos and
a gold chain around her neck with a
cameo locket to match the earrinfcs.
Styla of Seveatlea Re-rived.
A good many of these Centennial
modes have been revived this year
with modifications. Bustle fashion
cannot bring in, though ehe has tried
hard several times. Woman has
learned too much about lines and sil
houettes to stand for humpy bustles.
But there are pannier draperies, there
are pulled-back skirts, there are
fitted basque- bodices, there are little
PORTLAND, or.. May 4. Will you
Kindjy glvB m. recipe for a beet and borne
radlsb reltsn to Mrve with cold neat
A two a rhubarb conserve -with a flavor of
singer? Tban&lns you.
MRS. M. K W,
BEET and horseradish rolish Cook
the beets until tender, ekln and
slice them and cover with vinegar for
2 hours. Add to the vinegar 1 small
sliced onion for every 8 or 10 medium
sized beets. Chop both beets
and onions and for every quart
of chopped beets add 1 cup of
grated horseradish, 1 teaepooh salt.
and 1 tablespoon sugar (or more or
lees, to suit personal taste), and vine
gar to cover. A little cayenne may be
added if desired. Mix thoroughly and
seal in jars. Some makers add equal
parts finely chopped cabbage to the
chopped beets and use a little mus.
tard seed or mixed mustard in the
vinegar. A teaspoon of celery seed
(tied- in a bit of cheesecloth) may
be used if desired to flavor the vine
gar or may be mixed in with the
relish.
Rhubarb Conserve Two quarts of
cut-up rhubarb, 2 pints sugar,
oranges (grated rind and juice), 1 cup
seedless raisins, to 1 cup broken
nut meats. 2 inches stem ginger (
liked). Wipe and cut up the rhubarb,
cover with sugar and let stand (with
the ginger) over night. Next day
put together all the Ingredients ex
cept the nuts and cook gently until
of the desired consistency. Remove
the ginger, add the nuts and store th
marmalade in small jars covered with
parafine. If less of a ginger flavor is
desired remove the pieces of stem be
fore the marmalade is finished. If
the rhubarb does not give a tart
enough flavor, add a little lemon Juice
when the marmalade is nearly cooked.
WJ'ar- JZ6y -FBrP
hz' - y;zy -j
" - - Z- A - S
r z X. ,zzZ zz x J..
N x - fr- . v -3
7 Fortynaoe Other Styles at Popular Prices i
9k -szr ix
UGttTER fcYY
STRONGER THAU .VR
minutes. Let cool, then beat In the
flour sifted with the spices, soda and
baking powder. Beat up one minute.
Bake in a large loaf or in layera One
half the above amount makes a good
cake. Frost' with white frosting and
decorate with nuts. It may be made
as above without eggs, but for a
lighter, richer texture one or two
eggs very well beaten may be added
juBt before the flour.
O, they are not luck charms
though who would not rather
rust her fate to one of these
dainty little women than to a grin
ning "billiken"?
And they are not candy boxes. Or
place favora
They are talcum-powder holders, if
you please. The small bisque figures
are hollow and the crouched body and
head make a receptacle for several
ounces of talcum powder. Perfora-
tons in the top of the head, back of.
the smart bow of the bathing kerchief
for the little ladies wear modish
bathing suits!), allow the talcum to
sprinkle freely.
Snowy white moucholrs form only
half the interest of the handkerchief
counter nowadays. Much more allur
ing to the eye are the gay colored
hankies that are called breast-pocket
kerchiefs. They are also thrust into
sweater pockets and into pockets of
sport skirts, the bit Of bright color
making a vivid spot of interest in, the
eostume. And) usually the breast
pocket kerchief is selected to echo
a color used somewhere else in the
costume In hat, bead necklace, silk
hose or parasol.
These breast-pocket kerchiefs are
of linen tinted in soft, bright colors
and sometimes several colors are com.
bind in one handkerchief. The ker
chief at the top of the picture is
cream, tan and bin. The center one
is violet, white and lavender. The
kerchief at the bottom white with
an orange border.
FRECKLE-FACE
Sam and Wind Brfej.- Out TTgly Spots.
How to Res .eve Easily.
Here's a chance. Miss Freckle-face,
to try a remedy for freckles with the
guarantee of a reliable concern that
it will not cost you a penny unless
It removes the freckles: while if it
does give you a clear complexion the
expense is trifling.
Simply get an ounce of Othlne
double strength from any druggist
-and a few applications should show
you how easy it is to rid yourself of
the homely freckles and get a beauti
ful complexion. Rarely is more than
one ounce needed for the worst case.
Be sure to ask the druggist for the
double strength Othine as thi
strength is sold under guarantee of
money back if it falls to remove
freckles. Adv.
.REMARKABLE
RECOVERY
Due to Lydia EL PinkharnV
Vegetable Compound.
Philadelphia, Pa. "I want to Jef
you know what good Lydia K. Pink-
ham's Vegetable
mm
1 -t
i-: Mai-
Compound h i
dona me. I had
WUHU1V
"going
gh th
of Life.
sterilized jars for Jelly-making at
later convenience. The juice should
be extracted and strained as for jelly.
It may be then heated to boiling point ,
and sealed in hot sterilized jars as in
the "open pan" canning method for
fruit- Sometimes, however, it is more
convenient to put juice up in bottles.
thus saving the Jars for fruits and
vegetables. Then the following meth
od may be used. This has the ad
vantage ot better preserving the fresh
flavor of the fruits since the juice
does not actually boil:
Bottled Fruit Juice In extracting
the fruit juice it will be found that
the best flavor is usually obtained by
keeping the heat well below boiling
point. The juice may be squeezed or
dripped as preferred. strain ana pour
into hot clean bottles: make stoppers
of cotton, and press into the neck of
the bottle, set the bottles on a rack
n a boiler with boiling hot water up
to the necks and sterilize the fruit
Juice for 40 minutes at 160 degrees
Fahrenheit, r.emove the bottles ana
press a new scalded cork down over
the cotton stopper. If the cork fits
perfectly. It may not be necessary to
parafine It. but dipping in) parafine is
ttle trouble and makes lor saieiy.
Wrap and store in a cool place. When
the juice is wanted for Jelly-making,
proceed as for freshly extracted juice.
Besides being used for Jelly, fruit
juices may be used In many desserts
and for refreshing drinks, both hot
and cold. Fruit syrups, too, can be
made (using less sugar than for jelly
and perhaps with some glucose in
place of part of the sugar), that may
help to save sugar by their use with
breakfast foods, hot cakes and des
serts.
From windfall ap-lea or apple ciaer
a table syrup can be made, without
sugar, that is quite good to eat as
well as wholesome, and this may be
used in place of sugar syrup in put
tin sr ud some of the late fru-its.
Sucrate of lime or "viscogen" "(a
recipe for which was given last Sun
day), if properly used, increases the
viscosity of the cream and makes it
"e:o farther" as far as bulk is con
cerned, though, of course, the nutri
tive value is not Increased.
One egg white, whipped stiff, then
whipped glossy with one tablespoon
near, mav be folded into one cup or
more of whipped cream just before
nervine to decrease the richness, in
urease the bulk and Improve the con
sistency. This is especially good, for
soot cream that has been sweetened
with soda to use In place of ordinary
whipped cream. The stiff-beaten egg
mav be added when the cream is half
whlnned to prevent its turning to
hutter. '
Soaked and dissolved gelatine may
also be - folded into whipped cream
to increase its bulk and prevent its
softening on standing. For children
a s-ood "whlnned cream substitute'
mov he made from "ivory jelly" (rich
rtilk stiffened with gelatine), using
on scant tablespoon gelatine to one
cup -rich "top milk." Half as much
gelatine may be used In cold weather
if - is available.- Soak and
thoroughly dissolve the gelatine in-
half the milk: aaa tne rest, rain, m
hoof-im very light. Jtfst as the. mix
ture looks syrupy- and shows signs of
ctiffeTiinff. sweeten and flavor te
taste. . ... '
had with crawfish, may contribute
the kind of recipe you desire, as the
recipes I have do not call for wine.
Tarragon and garlic vinegar are used
instead of wine. The amount and
kind of spices vary greatly in dif
ferent recipes and may, I think, ba
regarded as matters of personal taste.
Generally cloves, pepper corns, bay
leaf, celery seed, one or two small
chile peppers and a bit of lemon rind
with tarragon and a hint of garlio
are used as flavors, among other sub-
stancea One well-known crawfish
expert uses 32 different Ingredients
in preparing his "court bouillon.
Following are recipes for Danish
prune cake and prune sauce cake, sent
in by a correspondent Some time ago
in reply to a request:
ranin prune cake One cup of
strained prune juice. o"ne cup of
stewed prunes, one cup of white sugar.
three cups of sifted flour, three eggs
(yolks only), five tablespoons melted
butter, one teaspoon of soda, one-half
teaspoon of baking powder, one tea
spoon, cinnamon, one-fourth teaspoon
each of cloves, allnpice and nutmeg.
Stone and mash prunes fine. Put all
together before stirring at all. Sift
sods, baking powder and spices with
flour. Add cup of prune Juice, beat
together, but stir as little as possible.
Bake in layers. Fill with whipped
cream flavored with mocha extract.
Prune sauce cake Three cups of
smooth, unsweetened prune pulp
thick as ordinary apple sauce, 2 cups
sugar, 1 cup butter, 4 cups flour, a
level teaspoons soda, 2 level tea
spoons baking powder, 1 teaspoon of
cloves. 2 teaspoons cinnamon. Boil
the prune pulp, sugar and butter five
PORTLAND, Or.. May 10. Dear Miss
Tlng-le: I expect te have a quantity of
currants in my yard this year, but owing
to the cost o ftugar will not be able to
make much Jelly. (1) May on success
fully can the juice for ue in jelly when
the price of sugar cornea down? - If so,
please give the directions for so doing-.
Is the process the same for raspberries,
blackberries, etc? (S Is there any way
to make Whipped cream ge further by add
ing white of egg or gelatin? Thanking
you for any help you may give me,
MRS. V. D. ;
Any fruit juic may ba rut up. In,
VANCOUVER, B. C April 26 I am
writing to ask if yon will be kind enough
to send me a recipe for cooking crawfish.
T ni to cook 15 to 80 dosen, and would
like to' know how mutt wine I should use
.i what kind of wine and spices 1 Thank
ins you in anticipation of your early
answer. - - MRS w. J.
1 am" sorry" to disappoint yon. bnt
it is never possible to "send" personal
re-piles to my correspondents, nor can
I alwavs tuarantee an -eariy answer.
though I try to reply In this column
as soon as possible.
I am printing your letter In the
hope that some correspondent, who
has bad more experience than I Hare
EASY TO DARKEN
YOUR GRAY
You Can Bring Back Color and
Lustre With Sage Tea
and Sulphur.
Successful Complexion
Renewing Treatment
A treatment for ntlow. mafldy freckled
6r blotchy complexions that Is sjwsys sue- ,
ceeafal is the nightly application of or
dlnary mercollsed wax for from one to
two weeks. This method is sure to rue
ceeel for the simple reason that It literally
takes eft and discards the old complexion.
The wax possesses the peculiar property
of absorbing; the worn-oat. faded or dis
colored surface nktn, with all Its Imper
fections. This is done so gradually, the
skin coming; off a little each day, in fine,
aJraost invisible particles, that no Incon
venience or discomfort is experienced
and th molt careful observer cannot de
tect the use of this treatment.
The mercolined wax, which can be had
at any drug; store. Is applied the same as
cold cream, but not rubbed in. and washed
off in the morning. The new complexion
produced In this way, exhibiting the true
beauty of health, is not to be compared
with the kind made by cosmetics. Adv.
STOPS THE PAIN OF
CORNS AT UNCE
Discovery ly Cbemlst Ends
Patnfal Assay an cea.
The sharp, throbbing pain of the
Worst corn Is quickly stopped by
painting the growth with Cactus Corn
Compound, a - chemist's discovery.
Furthermore, the corn thus treated
will soen dry up and fall off.
It is needless for anybody to suffer
from corns and callouses. A small
bottle of Cactus Corn Compound, cost
ing only a few cents, can be bought
at any drug stors and is sufficient to
remove dozens of corns.
Cutting makes corns grow faster
and is very dangerous. The Cactus
method kills them and is absolutely
safe. Tour druggist will refund your
money If It fails. Adv.
When ' you darken your hair with
Sage Tea ana tsuipnur, no one can
tell, because it 8 done so naturally, so
evenly. Preparing this tnixture,
though, at home is mussy and trou
blesome. At little cost you can buy at
any drug store the ready-to-use nreo.
aratlon. Improved by the addition of
other ingredients called "Wyeth's Sage
and suipnur compound. you just
dampen a sponge or soft brush with
it and draw this through your hair.
taking one small strand at a time. By
morning an gray nair disappears, and,
after another application or two, your
hair becomes beautifully darkened,
glossy and luxuriant.
Gray, faded hair, though no dis
grace. Is a sign of old age, and as we
all desire a youthful and attractive
appearance, get busy at once with
Wyeth's Sage and Sulphur Compound
and look years younger. Adv.
Really Removes Roots
of Superfluous Hair
(Phelactlne, the New Wonder-Worker)
1 JtO
I 1
Beautiful Women
of Society, during the past
seventy years have relied
upon It for their distin-
uished appearance. The
refined, pearly
white complexion it
renders instantly, is
i the source of
flattering comment.
Without doubt the greatest thing yet
discovered for balr-dlsf lgured womankind
is the wonderful pbelactine method. It
has none of the disadvantages ef electro!
ysie or depilatories and. beet of all. It
removes the hairs entire, roots and all
It does this Instantly, leaving the skin
to smooth and soft that no one can tell
the user was ever tne possessor oi i
moustache or other hairy growth.
ThelActlne 1 non-odorous, non-imtat-
ng, and so harmless a cbild could eat It
without any Ill-effect. A stick of this
remarkable substance, accompanied by
simple instructions, can be obtained at
bnv drugstore. what woman would not
be delighted after seeing those ugly hairs
oome out including- the roots with hex
own eyes T Adv.
organio trouble
and am i
throsgl
t; nance
I was taken with
a pain in my sida
and a bad head
ache. I could not
lie down, could
not eat or sleep.
I suffered some
thing terrible and the doctor's medi
cine did me no good at all my pain
got worse instead of better. I began
. u: xv. vr -1-V1. r s a
Mb&oxig nio v egvtauie uimpgona ana
felt a change from the first. Now I
feel fine and advis any one going;
through the Change of Life to try it,
for it cured me after I had given up all
hopes of getting better. Yon can
publish this and I will tell any on
who writes to me the good it has dona
me," J Irs. Makoabst DAm, 743 K.
25th Street, Philadelphia, Pa.
It hardly seems possible that thnra
is a woman in this country who will
oontimie to suffer witjhout giving
Lydia E. Pinkbam's Vegetable Com
pound a trial after all the evtdenes
that is continually being published,
proving beyond contradiction that
this grand old medicine has relieved
many suffering women.
The Easiest Way
to End Dandruff
There Is one surs way that never
fails to remove dandruff Completely
and that is to dissolve It. This de
stroys it entirely. To do this, just get
about four ounces of plain, ordinary
liquid arvon; apply It at night when
retiring; use enough to moisten the
scalp and rub it In gently with the
finger tipa
By morning most, if not all, of your
dandruff will be gone, and three or
four more applications will complete
ly dissolve and entirely destroy every
single sign ana trace oi it, no matter
how much dandruff you may have.
Tou will find, too, that all itching
and digging of the scalp will stop in
stantly, and your hair will be fluffy,
lustrous, glossy, silky and soft, and
look and feel a hundred times better.
you can get liquid arvon at any
drug store. It is inexpensive, and four
ounces is all you will need. This sim
ple remedy has never been known to
fall. Adv.
Hair Often Ruined
by Careless Washing
Rnan should Trie TISiMl vsr ai-ernTTw
lr vou want u Keen vuur uur looKine
IIS wow. .uunfc Bvaya .it. 1
shampoos contain too much alkali.
This dries the scalp, makes the hair
brittle and ruins it.
The best thing for steady use Is
Mulslfied cocoanut oil shampoo whlea
Is pure and greaseless) and Is better
than anything else you can use. ..
One or two teaspoonfuls will cleanse
the hair and scalp thoroughly. Sim
ply moisten the hair with Water and
rub it in. It makes an abundance
of rich, creamy lather, which rinses
out easily, removing every particle
Of dust, dirt, dandruff and excessive
oil. The hair dries quickly and evenly
and It leaves the scalp soft and the
hair fine and silky, bright, lustrous,
fluffy and easy to manage.
You can get Mulslfied cocoanut oil
shampoo at any pharmacy. It's very
cheap and a few ounces- will supply
every member of the family for
months Adv.
Has Thanksgiving
Every Day
Two years ago, after suffering
many years with stomach trouble, I
took a course of Mayr's Wonderful
Remedy and haven't been sick a day
since. I can eat anything I want and
have no pain at all. Three doctors
had a4S vised operation, but your rem
edy has cured me. Kvery day is
Thanksgiving for me." It is a simple,
harmless preparation that removes
the catarrhal mucus from the Intes
tinal tract and allays the inflamma
tion which causes practically all
stomach, liver and intestinal aliments,
including appendicitis. One dose will
convince or money refunded. At all
druggists. '
Beautify tie Complexion1
IN TEN DATS
Nadinola CREAM
Tas Cseqsaled BaaafiBs
By Tit
Guaranteed to remove
tan, freckles, plmptea.
iiver-spots, etc .ex
treme cases 20 darx-
Rids pores and tissues of imparities.
Leaves the skin clear, soft, healthy. At
leading toilet counters. If they haven't
it, by mail, two sizes, 60c. and $1.20.
VA.TK3NAL TOILET CO.. PmH. Taosa.
sold by ekiumora Drug Cow aad
toilct counters,