TIIE SUNDAY OREGONIATT, PORTLAND. MAT 16, 1920
ALMOST EVERY BRIDE HAS PALE GRAY
' TAllXEUR FOR GOING-AWAY COSTUME
Long Line Is Cleverly Given to Suit Merely by Little Row of Buttons on Skirt Collar Is of Exquisitely
-' Sheer Handkerchief Linen.
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lined, and I saw two styles. " That
which pulls together with a drawing
string is J3. The other, which has a
nice-looking clasp, is $3.75. .Either
one is quite large enough to hold
your suit, cap and general incidentals.
The study of color psychology is a
moat interesting one. Watch a person
makehis choice from a French pastry
tray, and notice how, nine times out
of ten, he will choose the brightest.
fanciest bit Bf pastry in -the collec
tion. Or notice which blouse in a
window display wiH first attract your
attention, and you will find- it to be
a vividly colored one. Well, that is
the Way I account for my having no
ticed and liked 'the tiny little hat
boxes. One, for instance, is black and
white striped, sprinkled with tiny
pink rosebuds. Tucked away inside
are five little' satiny sachets, for
placing in yoor lingerie. One ot these
boxes would make a particularly nice
gift for a shower. The price is-1.7B.
I'll never forget the time I went to
visit -Laura, who obligingly offered to
paint my stiff back with iodine. And
behold, the iodine spilled all over her
new white kid belt and her brand
new white collar and cuffs. She
Bhould have had one of the iodine
containers, or "iodine pencils,"
they are called. This container looks
very much like a glass tube,' with a
sort jof wick in one end. One fills the
tube with iodine and then when the
iodine is to be applied a patent device
feeds it on to the wick, with which
one paints the afflicted part. This
is a safe, convenient and economical
way to use iodine, one which I can
strongly recommend. The price Is
50 cents. N
E
, T I'-Vfc-R was there a more pro-.-
1 nounced vogue for gray, and al-
most every bride now has a pale
.gray tailleur for the going-away cos-
.' tume. Note how cleverly a long line
is given to thin suit (974) Just by a
little row of buttons on the skirt,
where the slashed jacket opens. The
buttons are of gray bone and there
are a dozen and a half ot them
on each pocket in more long lines. The
suit is built of pale gray tricotine
and has a little collar of exquisitely
sheer handkerchief linen. The turned
back cuffs are faced with blue to echo
the note of the blue. hat.
Very tbrmal and elaborate is this
trousseau frock (.153) for special 'aft
, ernoon occasions. Ecru filet lace
forms the long front panel. Bodice
and skirt drapery are of Frsnch blue
(reorgette, the bodice mounted over
flesh-tinted chiffon and the skirt
drapery over French blue satin. A
sash of Krench blue velvet ribbon has
long ends that fall at either side of
"the lace panel, setting it off effec-
: tively. A stunning hal of blue straw
. ;with a blue ostrich feather and a
-brim facing of ecru -satin, accom-
.panies the frock. And of course she
has long-wristed white suede gloves.
Many of this season's bridesmaids
;wear fnpcks of lace, for lace is ex
ceedingly fashionable just now. Paris
'has set her seal of approval on lace
- frocks. This lovely little costume
(793) is of cream filet over pale pink
satin and the lines are very girlish
and char.ming. A girdle of lavender
baronet satin with a cluster of lav
ender and violet posies gives a smart
color touch- in combination with the
pale pink and creamy tone of the
frock.
AVIKO spoken in my last two
papers of the policies to be ob
served at a .trump declaration,
I will now speak of the play at no
trumps. The' pluy at a trump and at
no trumps, for both declarer and the
adversaries, is governed by entirely
contrasting, principles, and play that
would be correct at the one declara
tion would be essentially wrong at
the other. -This to the beginner is
somewhat confusing, as he no sooner
learns one set of rules or principles
than he is told for the time being he
must abandon them - and adopt .. &
course radically different. It players
could be thoroughly grounded on cor- I
rec.t play at the one decoration be
fore attempting, the other, it would
tend rapidly to their advancement, but
as in actual play one must take the
cards as they come this would be
impracticable, and one can but cope
with the situation to the best of his
ability. - ' .
The fact that at an adverse declara
tion of trumps one's commanding
cards are liable to be trumped, and so
fail to make, renders it imperative
for the adversaries at a trump to
lead and make their commanding
cards early. An ideal lead at such
declaration is from a suit, long or
short, containing, an ace, king com
bination. The lead of the high card,
ace or king, as the case may be. from
such combination not only gives the
partner definite information as to the
other high card held, but holds the
lead until the dummy hand comes
down and enables the leader to decide
whether at once to lead the other
commanding card or to pursue some
other course.
.
At no' trumps the conditions are
radically different r the fact that the
declarer has elected to play without
a trump renders all suits equal so far
as trick-taking properties are con
cerned and all a player has to do,
be he declarer or adversary, is to
establish a suit and get in the lead
in order to make all the cards remain
ing of the suit.
At no trumps, therefore, the adver
saries' play is to hold back high or
commanding cards of short suits and
lead rather from their long suit in the
effort, as explained, to establish and
bring the suit, in. The more effect-
vely early to establish the suit, un
less the suit contains exceptional
strength, high card or numerical, or
both, not a high card but a small
card should be led. generally the
fourth best card of the suit.
If the leader has to choose between
a suit of his own and his partner's
suit, the same having been Indicated
by a bid, he should be influenced "in
his choice by the size of the bid, as
well as by the particular strength of
his own suit. It should be needless
ing card of the adverse suit at no
trumps should generally be held up.
if practicable, until such round as wTll
likely exhaust the partner of the
holder of what cards he holds of the
suit. To be sure if one holds two com
manding cards, of the suit, or if, with
the command, one holds another card
as wilt eventually be in command, the
rule should be disregarded; one should
take the immediate trick and then
hold up on the second lead of the suit
unless Intervening developments make
it better not- to do so. So. also, as
will occasionally happen, if the de
clarer finds he Is entirely defense
less in one suit, he should take the
immediate trick and make what he
can In the two remaining suits. Other
wise the adversaries may shift to the
suit in which he can offer no defense
with the result that he will be com
pelled to discard cards which should
have been made good.
A at a trump declaration the de
clarer should note the number of
trumps in the two hands and if the
siae holds the majority, seven or more.
generally lead and exhaust the ad
versaries, so at no trumps he should
note the suit which is longest in the
two hands and as a rule fix upon this
as the one for establishment. If hav
ing occasion to choose between two
suits of practically equal value,
numerical and otherwise, he should
obviously choose the one which, when
established, will Insure the greater
number of tricks, as for Instance, one
divided Bix and three rather than one
divided five and four,- and one di
vided five and three rather than one
divided four and four. Care should be
taken in the effort at establishment
to lead from the hand which is short
in the suit to the one which has
length, or from the weak to the strong,
Te correct lead from the correct hand
constitutes in fact one of the great
essentials to the successful play of the
two hands. A high card from the hand
containing the fewer number not only
lessens the danger of blocking, but
as a general thing admits of a finesse
Oif finesse be necessary) from the
hand entailing the least risk and
therefore insures the best chance o
establishing the suit at the smallest
cost. At times it is well to defer the
effort at establishment until the lead
can be correctly placed.
It is, in fact, at all times of the
first importance ' that the lead be
where it will be most effective. To
throw it first to the one hand, then
the other, now here, then there, back
and forth, back and forth, as seem-1
lngly expedient, calls at times for the
closest maneuvering. This phase of
the dealer's play has been aptly com
pared to the weaving back and forth
of a shuttle.
. Should it develop that the contin
uance of the suit the declarer essays
to establish would but establish it ad
versely, he should abandon it ,and
adopt the next best 'expedient, and,
conversely, he need not hesitate as
to going on with the suit the adver
sary has opened if he has length
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Self-Reducing KopService
For Stout Figures For Medium Figures For Slender Figures
Forty-one other styles at prices, that are within reach of the
. popular demand.
' COOCLSTORES EVERYWHERE
hUssB
80 50 for tricks and 30 for aces, very first trick and the diamonds
O-relews or ignorant play to the rotiM nver have been brought in.
to explain that if his Buit Is estab-1 th suit and the command will
Emancipation of Women of
Turkey Illustrated.
Mother of Three Children, aired 35.
BfeoniCN MlniMer of ICducatlon
tn Krmnra Cabinet.
ytONSTAN'TIXOPLE. May 15. A
J striking illustration of the general
emancipation ot Turkish women
which has been ef f ett ed by the war
is afforded by the designation of Mrs.
Hal id c Kdib Hanem, as minister of
education in Muatapiia Kemal' cab
inet. Mrs. Hanem is the wife of Dr. Adan
Bey, formerly president of the Turk-
t ish Red Crescent ami until recently
:Mustapha Kemal's minister of health.
She is 35 years old, tbo mother of
three children, a devout Mohammedan
and has attained fame us the author
of several strongly pan -Islamic
novels.
Shortly af tor Turkey entered the
war the need for nures became so
great that women, for the first time,
were permitted to accompany the
armies and enter military hospi-tals
as relief workers. They are said to
have demonstrated remarkable effi
ciency in taking care of the wounded.'
a fact which soon made it possible
for Turkish women to enter univer
sity classes with men. At the pres
ent time, however, they are still
barred from theaters and amusements
of various kinds, except special per
formances for women only.
Mrs. Hal id e Kdih Hanem Is, pr-
HECKLES
. 'ott Is the Time fo Let Hid of These
lly Spots.
There's no longer the slightest need
of feeling ashamed of your freckles,
as Othinn double strength Is guar
anteed to remove these homely spots.
Simply pet an ounce of Othlne
double strength from any druggist
and appy a little of it night and
morning:' and you should soon see that
even the worst freckles have begun to
disappear, while the lighter ones have
vanished entirely. It is seldom that
more than an ounce is needed to com
pletely clear the skin and gain a
beautiful clear complexion.
Be sure to ask for the double
Ttrenglh Otbine as this is sold under
guarantee ot money back if it fails to
remove freckles .-AJ v.
lished. he should first lead and make
his own- suit, then shift to that of
his partner. Also, If. one round will
likely establish his suit, aqd espe
cially if he holds re-entry, he is jus
tifiable usually in first leading his
own suit, save in cases, . where his
partner's bid has been carried to an
unusual high figure, thus pointing to
exceptional strength. If such is the
case it is generally better at once to
lead the partner's suit and concen
trate on the effort to establish it. It
is frequently d'fficult to establish one
suit, and the effort to establish two
is usually the height of folly and
results in establishing neither.
When leading one's partner's suit
one should generally lead the highest
caAi he holds of the suit. .Such lead
not only "enables the partner definitely
to know-the high card or carets of the
suit whioh are held by declarer, but
often serves as a strengthening lead,
enhling-him to hold up his high
cards, at the same time that it either
wins the trick or forces a higher one
from the declarer, thus working to
the establishment of the suit. -.
As an offset to the advantage which
the declarer enjoys in being able to
See and play the two hands, the ad
versaries should work in absolute har
mony. If. instead ot concentrating
the efforts upon one and the same
goal, each, partner works separately
and Independently, not only do they
fail to accomplish the greatest good
for the side, but they often contribute
in no small 'degree to the success of
the declarer.
For th's reason, when the partner
of the leader at a no-trump declara
tion gets in the lead, he should as a
rule at once return his partner's suit
and thus' aid in the effort at estab
lishment. Even though the command
of the suit be with dummy, or infer
ences from the eleven rule point, to a
high card, possibly the command, be
ing with declarer, the suit generally
should at once be returned,, unless it
is known declarer has an established
suit which he may at once run off,
or there Is some other cogent reason
for not doing so.
.
As explained, therefore, the guiding
aim of .both sides at a no-trump dec
laration' is" to establish and bring in
a long suit, and, the better to attain
this end, to hold back commanding
cards in shorter suits until establish
ment tactics have been successful;'
then, through the aid ot the high
short-suit cards, to bring the suit In.
At a no-trump declaration the de
clarer knows that ' the adverse lead
as a rule stands for the longest suit
the suit which the leader hopes to
establish and bring In. To defeat this
object and bring in a suit of his own
becomes usually the guiding motive
of his play. As a means to the first
end, i holding the. commanding card
of the adverse suit he should as a
rule hold it' up until such round as
will likely exhaust the partner of the
holder of thesuit of, all the cards he
r.... n - ------ , - . 0.ukm v, " iiuid ill r. 1 1 i- Km.., . -t a miir kv T ri Tin npnrivinff
the American woman's college here, : land and other-European countries. h. .,i.., iv,'. KiHtv later to
,vv.i.,,. i .o " in uuuu, uui nas an ai- lead the suit, he reduces to toe mini
tractive iace ana
tions on the subject of Turkish na
tionalism. Because of her unusual
power as an orator, she has been a
popular speaker In behalf of the
nationalist movement in Anatolia.
haps, the most celebrated . pioneer of i men have since done. She is a firm
the movement for the higher educa- believer In the superior cultural
tion of Turkish women. She was the I value of Mohammet's teachings. Mrs.
first Turkish girl lo graduate from Hanem resided for a time in Eng-
ormer Sultan Abdul Hamid. who
forced her to discontinue her studies
many times.
Dr. Mary Mills Patrick, president of
the college, and American diplomats
in Turkey, always took a great inter
est in her struggle for education
against such strong odds and she
finally finished her course a number
of years ago. Subsequently three of
her sisters graduated from the same
college.
Although educated in a school
where the teachers were all Chris
tians, she retained her Mohammedan
faith but removed the black veil from
ber face as many other Turkish wo-
Hints to Shoppers.
By Bfltj- Hedr.
I
F TOTJ have ever, on your summer
vacation, carried a wet bathine
suit gingerly, you will appreciate one
of the bathing-suit bags I am to tell
you about. They are black, rubber-
brought in. making it dependent in
fact upon the holder of the suit him
self holding some re-entry. Should
he hoIH no re-entry, the suit would
fall to make. Better, infinitely and
this cannot be too firmly impressed'
upon the mind of the student that
rha? tricks in the adversary's suit
must make, do so early, before the
suit is established and its trick-taking
power proportionately greater.
ulti
mately rest with him. Care should
be. used, however, in the adoption of
this policy to lead the suit in the most
advantageous way, or through the
strong adversary up to the weak.
. Be
lt must be borne In mind through
out thatan established suit can avail
naught unless the holder secures the
lead, so it is not alone sufficient to
establish a suit, but one should care
fully consider the chances of the
suit being brought in. In cases where
the suit for establishment is held by
dummy aswill more often than not
prove to be the case, since as a rule
thedeclarer's hand at no trumps is
made up of short "high-card suits
and the dummy is without re-entry,
declarer should devise means, if at all
possible, whereby dummy could again
be put In the lead. This is especially
important if the declarer himself does
not holri a sufficient number of the
suit to insure putting him in through
a card of the suit., If the declarer is
fully Impressed with the Importance
of this policy, and keeps it con
sistently in view, the opportunities
whereby he may accomplish this
result, if any such develop, will rarely
escape him. Building or establish
ing re-entries develops in a variety
of forms and involves at times ex
tremely pretty and facile play. Oc
casionally it can be accomplished
through the use of the Deschapelle's
coup; at other times in overtaking,
that is, in taking a trick which is
already one's partner's, or in winning
a trick with a card higher than is
necessary, when to do so will promote
a smaller one held by the partner. An
example will best illustrate:
The dealer secures the bid, we will
say, at no . trumps and the leader
leads a fourth best heart. Dummy.'s
hand shows up as follows:
QJ .
K7
KJ8753
6 S 4
(The dummy' itjeems made the
overcaH of '."two diamonds," but the
dealeiy ' who had confidence in his
own ability and knew he could make
good If there were a shadow of a
chance, went back to no trumps,
calling "two". He 'was all the more
justifiable in this 'as it was a des
perate score, the adversaries standing
-4 to his love on the rubber game.)
declarer's hand was as follows: t
A K 8 5 -
A 10 5
Q
- a A 8 7 2
Declarer at once sees that unless
he can establish and bring in the
diamonds in dummy hand he will be
unable to go . game the goal he
wishes to attain and that as - he
holds the queen of diamonds only
and it is beyond reason to expect
ace to be played to the first round,
dummy must absolutely have more
than -one re-entry If the suit would
be brought in. He therefore over
takes dummy's heart jack played to
the first .round with ace In his own
hand and thus makes re-entry of
the queen. This done he leads the
diamond queen, which, as he expected.
i holds the trick, leaving him in the
lead. At trick 3 he leads a small
heart, which puts dummy in the lead
while he at the same time retains
command of-the suit. Dummy then
comes out with the king ot diamonds,
and whether or not it forces the ace
the suit eventually becomes estab
ished, while he still holds a re-entry
the king of clubs. Whatever the
adversary elects to lead upon secur
ing the lead with the diamond ace.
declarer at once gets ili the lead and
puts the dummy in through a small
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Satisfactory in every respect? Cer
tainly because of that magic little
word Kleinert's on the margin. You
only know the worth of rubber
sheeting by the name, and Kleinert's is
the name that always stands for quality.
"Buy knowingly" buy Kleinert's.
I. B. KLEINERT RUBBER CO.
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liliu Hi' fi iiluiilu ill iiIiuii ttiiiiiiiiiiiiiiii:iiiiiiiiliiiiiiiiiiiill!ll
ii
laill:
L..: -?L.J vn i siiJ.
LYKOIsaete tn Hlnal peak.
mm only. Ilk picture above,
ftof ell MjbMltutae.
Hot,
Sultry Nights
rob Nature of the chance
to rebuild, by refreshing
and restful sleep, the
wasted tissues of the
body. That limp and pros
trated feeling caused by
wakeful, restless nights is
quickly relieved by
THe Great General Tonic
Sold Br ell Rmliahim Cnmiiti
Sole Manufacturer!:
LYKO MEDICINE COMPANY
New York Kansas City, Mo.
For sale by all drucglKta, always In stock
at vwi unif ve.
It may therefore be stated as a
rule the rule applies equally underi club. Dummy thus makes all his
the same conditions to both declarer diamonds save one, and the side wln
and adversaries that the command- in all 11 tricks, making a-score uf
Whatever You Do Don't Neglect
Your Eyes, Says Dr. Lewis, Who
Tells How to Strengthen Eyesight 50 in One Week's Time in
Many Instances.
A Fr PrMcriptiim Yon Can Hare Filled
and i;e at Hon.
Philadelphia. Pa. to you wear glasses?
Are you a victim of eye strain or other
eye weitkne?&e? If so, you will be triad
to know that according to Dr. Lewis there
is real hope for you. He aays neglect
caur-ea more eye troubles and poor sisht
than any other one thing. Many whoM
eyes were failing aay they had their '
reetored through the prirylple of thia won
derful free prescription. One man says
after trying it: "I waa almost blind: could
not see to read at all. Now I can read
everything without any glasaes and my
eye do not water any more. At night
they would pain dreadfully: now they
f-l fine all the time. It was like a
miracle to me." A lady who utred It eays:
"The atmosphere teemed hazy with or
without glasse. but after using thu pre
scription for fifteen daya everything ieme
clear 1 can even read fine print without
glas wee.' It is believed that thousands
w ho . ear g:a&?es can now discard thein
in a reasonable time and multitudes more
will be able to strengthen their eyes so as
to be k pa red" the trouble and ex peruse of
ever fie tt Lug glasses. fciye trouble of
many descriptions may be wonderfully
benefited by following the Kimple ru.es.
Here is the prescription: Go to any active
drugstore and pet a bottle of Bon-Opto
tablets. trop one Bon-Opto tablet in a
fourth of aglas of water and allow to dis
solve. With this liquid bathe the eyes two
or four times daily. You should notice your
eyes clear up perceptibly right from the
start and inflammation will quickly dis
appear. If your eyes are bothering you,
even a little, take steps to save them now
before it is too late. Many bopt;lenly
blind might have been saved if they had
cared for their eyes in time.
NOTE: Another prominent physician to
whom the above article waa submitted
paid : "Bon -Opto la a very remarkable
remedy. its constituent ingredients are
known to eminent eye special. sin &nd
widely prescribed by them." The manu
facturers guarantee It to strengthen eye
sight ut) per cent in ene a eek's time in
many Instances or refund the money. It
can be obtained from any good druggist,
and is one of the very preparation
I feel should be kept on 'hand for regular
use tn almost ever family. It in sold in
this city by aJ' leading druggists. Adv.
Cocoanut Oil Fine
for Washing Hair
If you want to keep your hair In
good condition, bo careful what you
wash it with.
Most soaps and prepared shampoos
contain too much alkali. This dries
the scalp, makes the bair brittle and
is very harmful. Mulslfled cocoanut
oil shampoo, which is pure and en
tirely g-reaeele.se. Is much better than
anything else you can use for shampooing-,
as this can't possibly injare,
the hair.
Simply moisten your hair with
water and rub it in. One or two
teaspoonf uls will make an abund
ance of rich, creamy lather and
cleanses the hair and scalp thor
oughly. The lather rinses out easily
and removes every particle of dust,
dirt, dandruff and excessive oil. The
hair dries quickly and evenly, and It
leaves it fine and silky, bright, fluffy
and easy to manage.
You can get Mulsified cocoanut oil
shampoo at most any drug- stgre. It
is very cheap, and a few ounces Is
enough to last everyone in the family
for months. -Adv.
Beautify tfo Complexion'
IN TEN DAYS
Nadinola CREAM
Tiis VaeqsaW Beutifi
Utmdand EJnmd
Br Thommamd
Guaranteed to rano
tan. freckles, pimples.
liver-spots, etc. Ex-
. i
.uenw csacs 4V omya.
Kids pores and tissues of imparities.
Leaves the skid clear, soft, healthy. At
leading toilet counters. If they haven't
it, by mail, two sizes, 60c and (1-20l
NATIONAL TOILET CO.. PaU. Tmmm.
Kald by Skldmare . Drug; Cs.s4 other
toilet ceunteie. '
Phone your want ads to The Oregs
nt&a. Main 7070, Automatic 560-8S.