V-
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THE SUNDAY OREGOMAX. PORTLAND, DECEMBER 21, 1919.
3- V"
FRINGES OF FUR AND FEATHERS
ON NEW MILLINERY CONCEAL EYES
Low Crowns Fit Head Closely New Poke Shape Is Becoming Ostrich Is Favorite Trimming in Use This
Winter Fur Hats Rarely All Fur.
v '"
66 82- SoTTe &x7rr3
KfipF ..nana Mj ' llS sast
or to persons of delicate digestion.
10. Serve cold (plain or combined
with other salad materials) with a
vinagrette sauce or plain boiled
dressing, or some variation of Thou
sand Island dressing.
If the lima beans are green they
should be very young and fresh and
cooked in slightly salted boiling water
until tender. Drain and serve with
salt, pepper and a little butter or
cream.
Will you please tell me what you
have in mind when you write "cucum
ber chips?" The name is applied to
(1) a sweet preserve: (2) a sour
pickle; (3) a semi-sweet pickle: (4.)
a mustard pickle: (5) a sort of salted
pickle. I have not space for recipes
of each type.
Very good pastry can be made with
out butter. In fact butter (even apart
from price) Is not the most desirable
fat for shortening, though a little of
it in the shortening gives an agree
able 'flavor. The method is the same
whether butter, lard or other fats are
used. Success in pastry making de
pends not only upon having good ma
terials and "a good recipe" (or set of
proportions), but more especially upon
skill in manipulation. which cannot
be imparted by an recipe, and correct
temperatures, both for making and
baking. It is not necessary to use
lard In your pastry, though good lard
In good proportions, well handled,
makes very excellent and digestible
pastry, but with butter at present
prices, to use butter only for ehort
ening seems to me at least, a most
unjustifiable extravagance without
any compensating advantage from
either the digestive or the gastro
nomic point of view. You can use a
mixed shortening with good results,
such as crisco or koala, combined
with a little butter for flavor, if you
dislike using lard. Even using all
butter, however, there is no excuse
for a tough crust if you learn how to
handle pastry and keep it at the right
temperature. I would advise you. If
your pastry is so poor, to master first
the making of "short crust," which
Is much easier to make as well as
more wholesome and economical than
he rolled or so-called "flaky crust,"
and then the latter will come easily
you. The kind of flour you use
has a good deal to do with the tough-
ess or tenderness of your crust. If
ou do not use regular "pastry flour,"
but are trying to make pastry out of
read flour, it is generally wise to
ubstitute one or more tablespoons
cornstarch or potato starch, accord
ing lo the strength of the bread flour
used, for one tablespoon or more of
flour in each cup as measured. Gen-
rally the better the flour Is for bread
making the less well adapted It is for
making the more tender kind of
pastry or cake and. therefore. It Is
ikely to give better results, besides
equiring less shortening, when modi
fied as above.
Short Crust for Pies For two cups
lour (either pastry flour or modified
lour, measured after sifting) allow
to 1-3 cup Crisco (according to the
strength of flour used and the warmth
of the weather), or from 6 to 8 table
spoons butter, lard or mixed shorten-
THE absolute antithesis of stiff
ness and rigidity are this win
ter's hats. Millinery is a collec
tion of lines elusive, obscure lines
which yet express a decisive smart
ness and grace when the hat is ad
justed on its wearer's head. And so
soft are these lines of millinery' that
almost any hat will become any wom
an, only depending on one thing the
head size of the crown.
The width of a brim or the slant
of a feather makes little difference
in becomingness, but a head size a
little too small or a trifle too large
makes all the difference in the world.
When the measurement Is too small
the hat rests too high on the head
and only elderly ladies now wear
small hats higli on the coiffure. If
the crown is too big the hat settles
down and has a clumsy look and the
neck appears too short for grace.
Sometimes a strip of velvet ribbon
sewed around the inside of the crown
will remedy a too-large head size.
If the crown of a hat is too tight
around the head, pressing on the fore
head when drawn down far enough to
look smart, rip the lining and snip
the foundation or frame on which the
hat is made two Inches upward from
the" place where It joins the brim.
The outer material of the crown will
usually "give" over this slashed sec
tion and when the lining is sewed up
again there will be no more evidence
of the enlargement.
Sometimes it may be necessary to i
snip the inner edge of the brim a bit
also if the hat is very tight around
the head. This can be done and a
small three-cornered piece of felt or
velvet set into the triangular opening
which will occur when the slashed
place spread apart on the head. The
tiny triangle or gusset will not show
under the brim so near to the head
In one of the down-settling hats of
the season and will give inestimable
comfort if one has suffered from
that particular headache which re
sults from a too-tight hat.
Feathers at Height of Fashion.
The softness of line and general be
comingness of the winter millinery is
due partly to draped and swathed
fabrics and partly to feathers. Never
have feathers been more generously
used on millinery than. they are just
now not even In the days when long,
curling plumes decorated hats worn
with riding habits. There are many,
many sorts of ostrich, curled, un
curled, gylcerined, burnt, and so on,
and In addition to ostrich there are
coq, grebe, paradise and pheasant
feathers.
Ostrich has invaded even the realm
of sport clothes as velvet did a
twelve-month ago. Velour sport hats
that used to disdain any trimming
other than a mannish crown band of
grosgrain ribbon, or, at the utmost, a
twisted silk scarf, are appearing all
bedecked with feathers. At a recent
football contest a smart-looking girl
wore a little roll-brim sailor of reseda
green velour with a band of gray os
trich curling softly within the roll
brim. Another very swagger sport
hat of black pressed beaver, with a
brim of shaggy beaver, had a long,
fluffy white feather along one side
of the brim.
There seems to be a sort of contest
between the fringe-like feather which
falls all over Its wearer's eyes, and
the shower-like feather which mounts
high, tumbling down on the top of
the hat crown. These clusters of
shower ostrich, or sometimes coq, are
placed high at the back and almost
eclipse the crown of the hat. They
are smart and dashing and lend con
siderable height to their wearers, but
they are not as graceful and becom
ing as feather trimming massed on
the brim of the hat around the crown.
This latter trimming is of various
sorts. There may be a feather fringe
fallinfl' frnm the nnnpr pdtrp nf Ihtt
crown all around, or a flat wreath
of curled ostrich laid flat on the brim,
or a raggedy fringe dangling over the
brim and almost hiding the wearer's
face.
But the most beautiful arrange
ment is the conventional, old-fash
ioned one of handsome ostrich
plumes, laid on the brim. There is
the feminine face as thick, rich, os
trich feathers curled around a hat
so that the lines of crown and brim
merge Into a feathery silhouette.
Usually, this year, one or two of the
big, beautiful feather tips curl down
over the brim somewhere, adding to
the softness of line and becoming
ness. A few hats have a fringe of
monkey fur in place of feathers and
though this effect is considered
smart and is certainly arresting t
the eye, it cannot be called either
soft or becoming.
Feathers Lend FormnlMy-
In a season when ostrich Is so su
premely fashionable, it is to be ex
pected that a certain formality will
prevail in dress. One cannot wear
handsome feathers with austere, business-like
looking clothes. Feathers
must be dressed up to, not only in the
suit or wrap, but also in all the small
details of the costume the gloves,
the veil, the boots.
The woman who went about two
winters ago in a war service uni
form with a simple sailor hat, sturdy
laced boots and mannish gloves does
not consider herseir dressed for an
afternoon on the avenue now with
out a feather-trimmed hat, a grace
ful tailleur or topcoat, wrinkled-in-the-wrlst
kid gloves of supremely
feminine type and danity buttoned
boots with rather high heels also
distinctly feminine in type.
Fabric hats there a-plenty also,
and these are softly draped to give
the elusive yet artistic lines of the
season. A new poke for restaurant
wear has a broad, down-turning brim
of gold lace and an enormous draped
crown of brown velvet which entirely
fills out the crown space to the edge
of the brim. Rather a top-heavy
hat but one very becoming to some
faces.
Then, of course, there are the tarns
they are legion. And the fetching,
soft-brim hats with a cap-like crown
and a wide, unstiffened fabric brim
that turns back from the face and
pokes out at either side. Sometimes
these brims are of leather. One such
model has an embroidered leather
brim and a crown of fabric matching
the tailored suit a beautiful new
wool suiting on the knitted principle
but displaying a surface of short
wool hairs so that the effect is like
a soft cheviot. The suit Is in mixed
brown and black and the hat crown.
made of the material, is matched with
a brown leather brim embroidered in
shades of bronze and gold.
Fur Hats Rarely Entirely Fur.
This year's fur hat is a dainty
thing and intricately shaped which
means that is very, very difficult to
concoct at home. Ihe brim or the
crown may be of fur but almost al
ways velvet, brocade or leather is
added in either brim or crown an
all-fur cap has not much style this
season. These pretty little fur hats
are trimmed with gold or silver
leaves, with tiny be.rries in clusters
sometimes wltn small rlower gar
lands. Occasionally there is the in
evitable feather softly curling off at
one side.
So fascinating arc the midwinter
hats that one simply cannot be satis
fied with one or two. but must yield
to the temptation to buy three or
four, once they are tried on. This
is unwise, however, for soon Just as
soon as Christmas has turned the cor
ner the spring styles will be show
ing themselves. The Palm Beach
millinery is already under prepara
tion and only waiting to show itself.
for wear with also-ready linen frocks
and suits of charm for linen, they
say. is to be the rage for southland
wear this year.
Chic is the word to describe this
gay little chapeau (7155). with its
towering feather trimming and Its
close brim that throws the eyes Into
mysterious shadow. The hat is
orown Deaver model with a very
narrow roll brim and rather a tall
crown. At the back, and tumblin
all over the crown Is a great bunch
of beaver brown glycerined ostrich
that satisfactory sort of plumage
that never comes out of curl on
rainy day. The little hat with its
shower of feathers should lend heigh
to even the most petite wearer.
I.ucky the woman whose husband
goes a hunting in autumn and brings
her home some pheasant feathers for
a winter hat. Wonderful are the
colors in these pheasant breasts and
tails and such a trimming gives dis
tinction to the simplest little hat
felt, velvet or beaver. The pictured
model ((156) is of black hatter's
plush and the gorgeous pheasan
breast encircles the low crown, long
tan leathers trailing off at one side
over the drooping brim of the hat
.There is no more popular hat this
winter' than the bell turban with an
unstiffened brim that drapes back
ward against the crown. Sometimes
the limp brim Is of leather a very
smart notion. Such a hat is pictured
here (6682), the bell crown of brown
velvet fitting the head closely and
the wide, soft brim of brown leathe
crushed back at the front and flar
ing out at the sides. The leathe
is lighter in shade than the velve
crown and is elaborately embroidered
with two shades of brown silk.
What used to oe the severely plain
boyish sport hat of beaver has taken
to itself a feathery trimming.. Thi
season feathers are simply too fas
cinatlng to be resisted one mus
have them everywhere! Here Is
new winter sport hat (7579) from an
authoritative shop, the hat brim
beaver felt and the crown of presse
beaver. Quite simple and sportllk
is the grosgrain crown band, but
from it sprouts a fluffy feather or
nament that trails toward the back
or the brim.
ing. Use to 1 tablespoon salt if
unsalted shortening Is used, or 4 tea
spoon if butter only is used. Add 1 '
teaspoons baking powder. Have the
shortening firm but not hard and
work It Into the sifted dry Ingredi
ents until it looks like fine, mealy
bread crumbs. Use a spatula for this
if possible. If not use the finger tips
only. Work very rapidly. Do not add
all the shortening at first, as on a
hot day or with a weak flour only the
smaller quantity may be necessary to
get the breadcrumb consistency, and
more may maKe a sticky mess. aoo.
cautiously, enough cold water to
stiff dough that will leave the mixing
bowl quite clean. Too much water Is
a frequent cause of tough crust. The
more shortening the less water ts
needed. Hot or cold water will give
about equally good results in deft
hands, but cold water is easier.
Toss on a well-floured board and
roll out very lightly (with a smooth
ing rather than a pressing motion) to
fit the pie plates. Never allow the
paste to stick to the board. This
helps to make tough crust. Wet the
pie all over before placing in the
lower part of a hot oven. When the
under crust is browned and before the
filling has time to boll out reduce the
heat a little and raise to the top of
the oven to brown. In a gas oven
the pie crust and filling are some
times cooked through before the top
is nicely browned and If left until
slowly browned-the crust may become
hard. In such a case when thor
oughly cooked brown it carefully
under the broiler.
Immmediately on taking from the
oven rub over the top with a bit of
butter if the butter flavor is liked, or
do this just before the final browning,
to give brownness and crispness.
For rolled or flaky crust make as
above, but roll out in a long straight
strip instead of fitting the pie plates.
Spread on this 1 or 2 teaspoons extra
butter or shortening, dust with flour.
Fold in three. Press the edges to
gether, turn half around and roll
again. Do this three times in all, but
do not use more than 3 extra table
spoons of shortening for 2 cups flour.
Some makers sift 1 tablespoon bak
ing powder with the flour used in
dusting. After three turns roil to fit
the pie plate and finish as above.
Skill Is needed in keeping the edges
of the strip even and in handling the
rolling pin. as it Is essential that the
layers of paste, air and shortening
should be evenly distributed, that the
Croat should not stick to board or
rolling pin, nor the shortening be
squeezed through at the edges. All
this spoils the "flakes" and toughens
the crust. Work only In a cool place,
not near a hot stove, and handle the
dough and rolling pin very deftly and
lightly.
If you are unskilled In rolling, or if
you have to scrape your board or roll
ing pin after pie making, practice on
the short crust for speed and dexter
ity before attempting the rolled crust.
Most people find the short crust the
more attractive and digestible as well
as the easier and more economical
Write again if you need more help.
BASKETS TO BE POPULAR .
GIFTS THIS CHRISTMAS
Many Styles of Attractive Design Being Offered for Sale in Shops.
Upside-down Umbrella Handles Are Latest Innovation.
I
I I
dred years when faithfully treasured
j and cared for. The tablecloth Is large.
J covering a table seating ten persons.
It'is edged with hand-made filet and
the long oval of decoration that rests
I on the table, inside the plate spaces,
is a design of hand embroidery, filet
motifs and plain medallions framed In
filet. There are six of these medallions
i and in each is to be embroidered the
initials of a possessor of the table
cloth. Three medallions already hold
the initials of grandmother, mother
and the daughter who is to own the
cloth. One can imagine what a valu
able possession this personally em
broidered tablecloth is going to be to
future generations.
Bridal Veil of Hostess Is
Used as Decoration.
Pretty Centerpleee for Table at
Party for Brlde-to-Be Pronea
Appropriate.
CHRISTMAS CANDY QUESTION
ONE OF SPECIAL INTEREST
Care, Knowledge and Judgment Important Ingredients in Every
Recipe to Insure Success.
PORTtAXD, Or.. Nov. 11. Dear Miss
Tingle: Please give In The Dally Oregonian
as soon as possible & recipe lor one pound
lima beans boiled, and do you know a rec
ipe for cucumber chips which does not take
several days to make? Also I would like a
recipe for pie crust made with butter that
Is not difficult to make and yet is flakey,
or If you have non with butter please tell
me one which has lard but very least pos
sible, as my family object to too much
lard and I seem to have tough crust us
ing the butter. I should like very much If
you could give proportions for two even
cups flour. Thanks for any help.
"CONSTANCE."
LIMA BEANS Do you mean dry
or fresh beans? The dry beans
should be soaked until fully
swollen, parboiled in salted water
with a pinch of soda, then drained
and cooked very gently until tender.
They may be finished as follows, with
or without a little chopped parsley or
chives:
J.. Drain, season to taste with salt,
pepper and butter.
2. Reduce the liquid of the second
1 -; . aADnn .. i v. ,j i .
V I UINED) I fci i via ill- 1.1 .1.1. 1 1 I 1 llT 1 I 11 U IV I 1 1 fl l .11 1.1111 1 1 ,111 !. ,J 1 1 it i 1 1 I DlL 1 L.
nothing in millinery so becoming: to 1 and, thicken slightly by boiling up
with a little uncooked roux, made
with butter and flour, or bacon fat
and flour, or use a little flour mixed
smooth with cold milk or cream. The
amount of thickening is chleflv a
matter of personal taste. A few drops
of lemon juice may be added if liked.
3. Serve in cream sauce.
4. Serve in plain tomato or Spanish
sauce.
5. Serve in rich brown sauce.
6. Serve In poulette sauce.
7. . Combine with a little finely
chopped, crisp-cooked bacon or
minced ham, or minced chipped beef
with or without additional sauce.
8. Combine with about 1 ounces
fat pork or bacon, or 1 ounce of oil
or other fat, flavor to taste with
molasses and mustard and finish like
Boston baked beans, giving long,
slow cooking.
9. Rub through a sieve to remove
the hulls and to make a stiff puree
(like mashed potatoes), seasoning
with pepper and salt with a little
butter, bacon fat or cream. This is
the only way in which beans should
be served to children under V or 8
BY LILIAN TINGLE.
HE CHRISTMAS candy question
is of special interest to the home
candy maker this year, since the
price and scarcity of the main in
gredient is likely to make hesitant
even that cheerful amateur, who,
though she makes little or no candy
during the year and has never studied
the nature of sugar, yet always fondly
hunts at Christmas for some "quick"
recipe, some really "magic" recipe.
which, with little trouble and less
knowledge ou her part, shall yet se
cure for her. at tne lowest possible
cost, a candy equal to the best com
mercial product of skilled workers.
Of course that magic recipe does
not exist. Care, knowledge and
"judgment" are ingredients in even
the simplest candy, made with easiest
working materials, (as for example
the Vcreams" made by merely drop
ping cream or condensed milk or
water into fine sifted confectioners'
sugar), but this year, when so many
housewives are using syrups in place
of sugar, extra care and Judgment
will be needed. The candies most
easily made with little or no sugar.
include various kinds of nut brlttles
oi nut bars, pulled taffies, butter
scotch, glace nuts and fruits, choco
late dipped nuts, chewing caramels,
fruit paste, Turkish nougat, hard
nougat, marshmallo wm and other
gelatine mixtures.
Candles of the "fudge" or "divinity"
type are a little less easy to handle
with a very low proportion of sugar,
since varying proportions of glucose
call for different degrees of cooking.
and the familiar but somewhat vague
"tests" no longer seem to hold good.
Candles with a slight "grain" ox
"firm creamyness," such as fudge,
must contain some crystallizable
sugar, and of course glucose or corn
syrup will not crystallize. .Moreover
a sugar mixture wltn a hign propor
tion of glucose or corn syrup usually
needs a higher degree of boiling than
a similar mixture with a lower pro
portion of glucose.
Following are a few suggestive re
cipes which have proved satisfactory
in careful hands:
Peanut brittle with syrup 2 cups
sweet syrup. cup sugar, Ms cup
water, 1 tablespoon butter, 14 tea
spoon salt. Mi teaspoon soda. lj to i
cups shelled and husked raw peanuts.
Put the syrup, sugar and water into
a pan and boll to the "barley sugar"
stage; then add the butter, peanuts
and salt. Let cook until the peanuts
rise to the top and look "dry" and.
roasted, and the candy shows a "hard
crack" when tested. Have ready
plenty of greased tine (If no "slab"
is available) as the candy should be
spread very thin. When the candy
is ready to pour, add the soda and
beat vigorously as it foams up, pour
ing the candy into the tins and
spreading out as thin as possible.
Break in pieces when cold.
Nut bar Use one-half' the above
quantity of syrup and sugar and
omit the soda. Cook the candy to
the "crack." then stir into it as many
walnuts, lightly roasted peanuts, or
blanched almonds as it will hold to
gether. Work quickly and pack the
mixture l'.s to 2 inches deep In a
well greased bread pan. When cold
turn out and cut Into bars with a
large heavy knife, or cut into smaller
"individual pieces it preterrea, wrap
ping each piece In parafine paper.
Fruit bonbons Three cups smooth
stiff unsweetened apple sauce, lhi
cups sugar (or 1 cup sugar and
cups syrup), color and flavoring to
taste. The apple sauce is best put
through a sieve, but this is not ab
solutely necessary If it is beaten quite
smooth. Any free juice may be
drained off. to save overlong boiling.
Put the apple sauce into a pan and
cook down as stiff as possible, stir
ring vigorously and being careful
not to allow it to "color" or to begin
to burn on the bottom. Then add
the sugar or mixed sugar and syrup
and cook until it wrinkles and jellies
when dropped on a plate or to a
firm but light colored marmalade.
Remove from the fire, and add red
"fruit color" or the red color that
comes with some kinds of gelatine,
to give a good bright red. Flavor
rather highly with almond extract
and a few drops, only, of lemon or
vanilla, as preferred, to give an
"imitation maraschino cherry" effect;
then spread one inch thick on an
oiled plate or platter, and allow to
dry out slowly on a warming oven or
on, a radiator. Slow drying tends to
develop a better texture and flavor
than quick drying. When "leathery"
out into fancy shapes, or small bars
or squares and toss In granulated
sugar or roll up Into "cherries" and
toss in sugar: or work up with
chopped nuts into bars and toss in
sugar. Let dry again a little on the
outside after this, again rolling in
sugar.
A few of .these fruit candies give
an attractive finish to a box of
minxrd bon bons. The paste may
also be used to decorate cakes or
desserts, or for use as chocolate cen
ters, either with or without nuts. It
is decidedly more wholesome for chil
dren than any of the usual soft or
creamy candies.
Peppermint fruit paste Make as
above, but color to a pleasing green
with fruit color paste, and flavor
rather strongly with peppermint.
Finish as above and use in place of
afterdinncr mints.
Peach or apricot paste Make as
above, using instead of apple sauce a
very firm marmalade made from
canned or dried peaches or apricots,
drained from juice and passed through
a sieve. Spread on oiled plates and
dry as above. This paste is particu
larly good with nuts. It may be
rolled around a nut and then rolled
in sugar, or the nuts may be worked
Into the partly dried paste and
pressed down into a tin lined with
rice wafer paper, a second wafer and
a weight being placed above. When
firm cut into bars and roll in sugar
if too sticky.
Molasses walnut taffy Two cups
molasses (or 1 cup molasses and 1
cup syrup), cup water, 1 cup sugar,
2 tablespoons butter, teaspoon
salt, teaspoon cream of tartar, 2-3
cup roughly chopped walnuts black
walnuts are particularly good in this.
Boil to the hard ball. Pull until light
colored, then flatten out Into a strip
about 2Vi Inches wide, put the nuts
down the middle of the strip and fold
the candy over, then pull out to the
desired thickness and cut In pieces
with heavy scissors. Wrap each piece
in. parafine paper.
English butterscotch Two cups
white syrup. 1 cup sugar, cup
water, 3 to 4 tablespoons butter, 1
tablespoon lemon Juice, 1 tablespoon
molasses. teaspoon salt. Put the
syrup, sugar, water and lemon Juice
into a pan and boil until it turns
light yellow and cracks in cold water,
then add the molasses and one-half
the butter and boll up again; then
add the salt and remaining butter
(with a little lemon or vanilla flavor
ing if desired) and boil again to the
"crack." Drop in "wafers" on a very
cold oiled platter, or pour into a
greased tin. Mark in squares or bars
when half cooled and break In pieces
when cold. Wrap each piece In par
afine paper.
Candied cranberries One pint ot
the largest and choicest berries se
lected from one quart ordinary cran
berries. Pour over them 1 quart hot
water In which 2 teaspoons soda have
been dissolved, let stand 1 minute,
drain and put into a syrup made with
1V4 cups white syrup, cup sugar. A
cup water boiled five minutes. Drop
the cranberries Into this. Raise Just
to boiling point, then let cool, letting
stand overnight if convenient. This
heating and cooling process may be
J repeated several times, or the berries
may simply be cooked very gently In
the syrup until they are clear and
translucent and thoroughly saturated
with the syrup. Then drain, spread
on a platter sprinkled with granu
lated sugar, sprinkle more sugar over
them, and let dry a little in the
warming oven or on a radiator until
of a p.easant leathery consistency,
then roll in sugar again and use as
candy or for decorating cakes, can
dies, desserts and fruit cocktails, in
place of candied cherries. Some mak
ers like the maraschino-ish flavor
Imparted by the addition of almond
flavoring to the syrup in the last
stage of the cooking.
Peanut butter fudge 1 cup brown
sugar, 1 cup syrup, cup cold water,
2-3 cup peanut butter, teaspoon
salt (or more to taste). Mix the
sugar, syrup and water and cook to a
very firm "soft ball," then beat in the
peanut butter and spread in greased
tins. Cut In squares when cool and
wrap in parafine paper.
Marshmallows with syrup 1 ounce
I latter - m AMi 111 v.
A WOMAN who was giving a lunch
eon last week, to a bridc-to-bc,
bethought herself of a new and un
usual decoration for her table center.
She omitted the conventional flow
ers and hunted up, instead, her own
bridal veil, cherished wedding slip
pers and orange blossoms. Theso had
been carefully put away in tissue
wrappings for ten years and emerged
white and beautiful as ever. The
veil was swathed in a circle of airy
softness on a handsome centerpiece
of white embroidered linen that
matched the linen place doilies used
for the luncheon. In the center of
this garland of bridal veil stood the
pretty little white satin slipper with
its pearl bead embroidered toe, and
in the slipper were massed the orango
blossoms that had formed a veil coro
net and a festoon on the gown. A
small horseshoe for luck made of
white cardboard and bearing tho
words: "Greeting" torn 1909 to 1919."
was thrust among the blossoms. Un
der the light of the liattglag ds
the filmy veil, satin slipper aaat
orange blossoms shone with a lovely
radiance and the guests exclaimed
with delight at this unusual tablo
decoration.
BASKETS are going to be very
popular Christmas gifts this
year. Dozens are offered among
gift articles In the shops and one
hears women talking about basket
gifts under consideration. Most of
these baskets will go to their recipi
ents filled with something or other
candy or fruit, or daintily folded lin
gerie, or even tiny baskets with
salted nuts or handkerchiefs. The
pictured basket is for a fruit gift, and
with bananas at 50 cents the dozen
and oranges at 80 or thereabouts,
fruit becomes a gift of sorts in these
hard times. The pictured basket Is
copper bronze In color with a highly
shellacked rim and handle In black.
Deep reds, mauve, rose and silvery
green are combined in the decorative
fruit trimming.
The modish sun and rain umbrella
which every body prefers Just now has
such a short, stubby handle that its
ferrule end has perceived an oppor
tunity for decoratlveness and has
usurped handle privileges. Swinging
loop handles are attached to dainty
ferrule ends as you see In this picture.
When the umbrella is carried upside
down the ornamental loop is slipped
over the wrist. When the umbrella
Is held open over one's head the
swinging loop drops down and falls
against the silk cover like a gay or
nament. One of these ferrule handles
Is of polished dark blue wood with
silver chains and mountings. The
other end Is of ivory-tinted porcelain
with silver chains and mountings.
gelatine. 1 cup sugar, 14 cups syrup.
i cup water, 1 or 2 egg whites, flavor
ing to taste, vanilla, orange flower
or peppermint as preferred. Mix the
gelatine with 4 the water as given
above, and let soak until fully swol
len. Boil together the syrup, sugar
and remaining water. Cook to a firm
ball that barely "rings" when tapped
on the side of the pan. Have the
soaked gelatine dissolved over hot
water, and the eggs beaten stiff with
'4. teaspoonful each salt and cream of
tartar. One egg white only may be
used, though of course two will give
a fluffier consistency. Pour the
cooked syrup on the dissolved gela
tine. Beat up with a Ladd egg beater
and add the eggs. Beat until very
light and Just soft enough to sink
level In a pan. Place in an oiled pan
1 inch deep. Let stand overnight,
turn out on a board thickly sprin
kled with a mixture of confectioner's
sugar and cornstarch. Cut into 1-lnch
squares and toss in sugar and corn
starch. This mixture may also be
used for "fluffy" chocolate centers.
Memorial Tablecloth Idea
Prove Popular.
I.lnrn, Bearing Initials of Knob
User, la Handed Down From
Cieneratlon lo Generation.
SHAVE
WITH
(MM
SOAP
The Healfby Up-to-Date
Coticura Way
Good-Looking Boots Worn
With Afternoon Costumes.
Hitch Heels In Covered Loots Shape
Favorite with Many Smartly
Dressed Women.
A GREAT many smartly dressed
women, noted on Fifth avenue
and in tho adjacent tea rooms, are
wearing with tailored afternoon cos
tumes good-looking boots of the but
toned type. Usually these boots have
tops of suede or silky cloth in a
shade of soft gray, or In one of the
fashionable new brown tones, and the
black leather vamp Is long, slim and
pointed.
Such boots have rather high heels
in the curved Louis shape, but the
heel has a broader base than the
typical French heel and the boot Is
more comfortable to walk. In. and es
pecially to stand about In than a
boot or slipper with the extreme
Louis heel that slants far under the
foot. Buttoned boots were impossible
to obtain during war days, but now
that they are back women who ap
preciate the fine details of dress are
glad to find them again as the prop
er accompaniment of formal street
costume.
QUITE an original idea, and surely
one worth recording, is an heir
loom tablecloth to be handed down
from daughter to daughter in the
family, each temporary possessor of
the cloth to put on it her initials.
Such a tablecloth has just been started
by a New York women and three gen
erations have already put their sym
bolic letters thereon, the woman her
self, her aged mother, and the young
married daughter to whom the table
cloth is to go as a Christmas gift.
The tablecloth has been used in the
grandmother's home, to give authen
ticity to its heirloom character. And
it will grace the Christmas dinner
table of the woman who originated
the Idea. Then it will pass into the
bride's hands, and the plan is that
some day she will bestow the hand
some cloth on her daughter, or on
her son's wfe or failing either is
to will the heirloom to some member
of a younger generation who will
appreciate the gift.
For this memorable tablecloth the
finest, most beautiful linen damask
was selected, the sort of wonderful
Irish linen that endures for genera
tions and real linen table cloths
think nothing of enduring for a hun-
One Soap for All Uses
Shaving Bathing
Shampooing
No mug. no slimy soap, no germs.
no free alkali, no waste, no irrita
tion eren when shaved twice dairy
Doubles safety razor efficiency, not to
speak of its value in promoting skin
purity, skin comfort and skin health
due to its delicate fragrant Cuticura
medication. After shaving touch
spots of dandruff or irritation, if any,
with Cuticura Ointment. Then bathe
and shampoo with same cake of soap.
One soap for all uses. Rinse with
tepid or cold water, dry gently and
dust on a few strains of Cuticura Tal
cum and note how soft and velvety
your skin.
Absolutely nothing like the Luta-
enra Tno for every-day toilet uses.
Soap to cleanse and purify. Ointment
to soothe and heal. Talcum to pow
der and perfume. 25c each. Sample
each free by mail. Address: "Caticara
Ubor.toriei, Dept. Y, Maiden, Matt."
See Superfluous Hair
Roots Come Right Out
(Entirely New Process)
New. different, better than all de
pilatory and electrical treatments. Is
the marvelous phelactlne process. It's
the one thing that actually removes
the roots as well as the hair on the
surface. It does this very quickly,
leaving th.e skin perfectly smooth and
hairless.
Get a stick of prepared phelactlne
from your druggist today, follow the
easy Instructions, and with your own
eyes watch the hair-roots come out!
You'll be astonished and delighted.
Phelactlne is entirely odorless, non
irritating, and so harmless you could
eat it without any ill effect. Adv.
Easy Way to Keep
Your Hair in Curl
1
h Mtninit 0nml riiffMtinfl
mrA rMnilsrhAWpl mOVemH'.S. Con
tains nothing harmful no alcohol
no opiates just the finett vege
table properties. Especially recom
mended for teething" time.
At all druwti't
PoITa'"' T..na tWge - 6Jc ' iH
A face tike a flower, refreshing and Ioreli I What a jay to look in your jfl HL jA
mirror and be reminded of June, of bluihroie, of beaury all that ia M fcttaSsS
-0 delortable. Ostara Powder u fragrant, aofc and bast EjGft '
SK Meier at Frank. Oldsf Vortmin I
rj Jl King. I.lpman. Wolfe at Co. I
J it If "At AUOoaalDnaT Bterae"
VV A. inssL TWE C' wtCM CO "w "
If you have trouble keeping your
hair in curl, you'll do well to try plain
liquid silmerine. Apply a little at
night with a clean tooth brush, draw
ing this down the full length of the
hair from root to tip. The hair will
dry in the prettiest waves and curls
that you can arrange, and the effect
will appear altogether natural. In
stead of that dull, dried-out look
which the heated iron gives, the hair
..in i k.i.iit iii.iinii. ii .. w i.ii.i ..I ; r..l
T 1 i i i rl n i 1 in ii r! n .i 1 u nf imii -
sTve to use. Adv.
! Discolored or Spotty
Skin Easily Peeled Off
J
The discoloring or roughening to
which many skins are subject at this
season may readily be gotten rid of.
Ordinary mercolized wax, spread
lightly over the face before retiring
and removed In the morning with
soap and water completely peels off
the disfigured skin. Get about an
ounce of the wax at any druggist's.
There's no more effective way of ban
ishing chaps. blotches. pimples,
freckles or other cutaneous defects.
Little ekin particles come off each
day. so the process itself doesn't even
temporarily mar your looks or keep
you indoors, and you gradually ac
quire a brand new, spotless, girliehlv
beautiful face. Adv.