TIIE SUNDAY OltEGONIAN. PORTLAND, OCTOBER 19, 1919.
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fj i i- . ii i 1 1 i i in ii
I "N. T "T KssVtff Ik M'J "Why admit across a room that you are made up?. Why not use
i jr 1 nil I li i I a little art why not simulate the thing: that is admired when if is
' , ; Jaqiif? 16 ' nalira Why use red when lips should be a pink??
' f jtf'p. DONTS for. Those 1(1 (iAW 3
I" " ;K - Who Think They JHv V
. v i . ' " ' Must Paint Lips frrff4
- ' ; ' : and Eyes Simple
- - ' : . - ' 'V' - - V. .J - ) Directions from an MTU
P. - :--V:"- Expert as to Heal V $ f
:( v -".. , -A ' j. -.'.V 'Art of the. Matter. - ill! I 11 JrfMj
' '' " ' ' ' ' 'j
Lips Should Be Made Up With a Natural Pink, Not Bed, and the Corners - ' ,-- . r'' ' ( - .. JL MMlmw I 0 11
x Should Be Softened by Wiping Away With, face Grease, , . - . , ' , . If lA A VV
Blue. and Gray Eyea Should Be Made Up Differently From Park Eyea and the Lida V - VA 7fm ar2
; , Should Be Blued, Not Blackened Picture on the Right Shows Hazel Eyes With . . iJcL " "' " "rtS
: " Lids Browned, and gashes Very Delicately Lined. Brows o( Li(ht Eyea Should . , . . , "a rr? jr
Be Quite Thin. - - : ' - ' L .
jr.,..,. ln,lBil.iW ...... i , frmn mn, v vmm.,n,,i, nmt J li i. i i . , .. n inn' , ' i i ttssm mmmmmmmmmammmmmim - s- ' . -
Eyes Strongly Made Up and Lips With Very
Spft Color,
Typical Lip Make-up for the Screen Photoplay, Brilliant Make-up Necessary tQ Stage Lighting,
An Accentuated Make-up aa to Both Eyea and Lips.
BT BARBARA CRATfDQN.
PUNCH'S advice to those about to
marry was "Don't." Thii was
cynical and really represented a
preface a good advice under the
heading-, "If Teu Must Marry,
"Why" and sq on.
Today we night with much less
cynicism, in fact, with the very best
of reasons, cay tQ these contemplat
lngr "rnake-up." simply "Don't."
We ar living- in a time, when a
vast number of women think they
must. I don't mean cream and pow.
der. I ara thinking- of the eye pencil
and the lip stick. Overdone make-up
is giving a shocking? look to many of
our women folk. Frightful Vermillion
lips- not with an illusory pink, but
with a strident, violent vermtlllon
era very prevalent.
There was a. day when the world
looked askance at "painted ladies."
Women who painted for he street
were set apart. "
Nowadays we can make no such
auick classification. Perfeotly aood
girls parade with s.plashs of paint
that would once upon a time have
been looked upon with horror, Tet
their perfect g-oodaes doesn't save
the sign from, its sadness.
Jf there is a most beautiful color
in the worl4 it is probably the color
of a young girl's healthy skin. Next
most ' beautiful .may be the tint of
cheeks .with healthy blood in them
and lips In. their own adorable and
never-to-be-imitated pink.
To splash on color la to say to the
world that you don't like your own
face,, and this is never graceful ad
mission. Possibly- the movies are responsible
for emphasized faoe coloration. Same
day movie people will lea.cn that the
feature emphasis that Is made, necessary-
by photography under ordinary
circumstances an look repulsive Jn a
"close up." The heroine's lips in a
"close up" ara not even ah exag
gerated red. They are black, and
black lips are nauseating. Maybe
watching black lips, inartlstioalljf
emphasized, has something to do. with
the staring red lips of fashion.
However, this is not a sermon on
face painting. Each woman must de
cide for herself what she wishes to
look like, what sort of man she wishes
to please, how frankly she wishes te
confess that she prefers staring red
lips to pink lips, and honestly inter
esting eyes to "stagey' eyes. The
stage has its excuses, its necessities.
The combination of top light and foot
light forces the actress to accentuate
colors. Off the stage, in the light of
day, or under condition that amount
to a "close up," .the necessity no
longer exists.
Hlght here I should like to urge
that make-up should, at It beat, imi
tate nature. Why admit, acrpss a
roam, that you are ma.de upt Why
not; use, a little art why not simulate
the thing that is desired when it la
natural? Why use a red when lips
should be a pinkT Why undorline.
eyes to heavily that the daub 1 rec
ognizable at SO feet?
Yes, this, is a plea for reasonable
make-up, It is asking you. if you
must make up, not to use a footllght
effect for the drawing room or street.
It is asking you to remember that all
art that does not look like nature is
bound to fail. Pretending tei have a
color you really haven't may be good
art if the color you pretend to have
really looks natural and a if it be
longed to you. Paint that stands out
as paint never can be either artistic
or winning. There can be no charm
in a mask. ,
Call it pretending, if you like, but
pretending to have beautiful eyes and
beautiful lips may be one thing; prov
ing that you haven't them, and that
you are wearing a mask, to conceal
the fact, ia mtte another matter.
I am pot an expert in nakt-up, but
I give you the, counsel of one who
frankly believes that it may be made
an art. You will notice that she
Sharply distinguishes between the
stage and ordinary light, especially
between the stage and the street.
"Women should, realise that it ia a
great mistake to make up the lips in
a hurry, as it is usually done, A
wrong shade is often used, and is just
put pn In a thoughtless way, neglect
ing the shape of the mouth entirely.
There is Just as much expression
about the mouth, as about the eyes.
Therefore do not spoil the expression
of the mouth, and don't try to change
it, unless it must be done for the
stage. Aa a make-up use pink and
not red. Bed or Vermillion 13. some
thing necessary on the etage when
the lights are very dense. When the
mouth is a little too large one caa
wipe out the corners of the mouth
with faoe grease and only make up
with red the center part. Take care
net to make it oo small, because it
would look like a red spot. These
suggestions apply only to make-up
far the stage. For daylight lips must
be softly aofentuated with pink fol
lowing the shape of the mouth, but
not quite to the edge. Thla will make
the lips more delicate and far prettlor.
"The make-up of the eyes is Just
ae important for daylight ae for the
stage. It is an art in itself, because
the effect of the size and expression
in the eyes depend on the way they
are mad, up. Even the color effect
can be changed slightly; for instance,
gray eyes with a tny Pit of Kreen
and brown in them when mad.e up
with dark brown and a soft blue, the
color of the apple of the eye changes
to a pronounced hazel, and sometimes
they eeem to pe brown. Dark eyes
must be touched just a little on the
eyelids with dark brown spread out
with the finger in a ooft line. This
is for daylight. Don't put any paint
under the eye. but if the eye kas an
oval shape, accentuate it. The best
way to do thie ia to make a aoft line
with the pencil and smooth it out
With the finger, then make up the
eyelashes with a tiny brush in the
usual way. Don't use any blue for
dark eyea. Fo the etage dark eyes
should be made up in the same way,
but more or less accentuated, de
pending on the eixe of the ball and
the brilliancy of the lights.
"Blue and gray eyes should be
made up differently from dark ones.
ITor blue eyes one should use for
daylight a very aoft black, a black
that spreads out very easily, and it
should' only be used for the eye
lashes. Don't put any black on the
eyelids of the blue or gray eyes, even
for the stage. Put only blue on the
upper eyelid, well spread out. the
lower part a tiny bit darker than the
upper, and use black only for the
lash.es and eyebrows. But the eye
brows of gray and blue eyes should
be very narrow, just a thin arch.
"Never use blue for daylight make
up. The picture showing the expres
sion of half-closed eyea. with falling
eyelids, makes the point. These eyes,
being hazel, the eyelids are slightly
darkened with brown. This givea
a glance that the, French call Un re
gard velout' a 'velvet glance.'
"Never make-up in public This ia
very bad taste. Even using powder
in publio is questionable. Much of a
woman's charm must be lost if we
lose a sense of mystery as to how she
produces it. Particularly reprehenr
sibli ia a public lip stick. lips made
up in that way, without infinite pains
and the closest examination, are cer
tain to reveal the paint, and to re
veal the paint is to kill all beauty of
effect."
CUTTERS ABANDON SUBMARINE CHASE
TO LOCATE DANGEROUS ICEBERGS
Hardy Sailors of United States Coast Guard Service Now Are Devoting Time to Obtaining Pata tor Guidance
of Marinerer Work Interrupted by Orders to Go te War Is Resumed.
m URNING from hunting German
I submarines to hunting icebergs
in the north Atlantic is going
from one exceedingly dangerous job
to another; in both cases the "ships
engaged In the bunt being liable to
be sunk at any moment unless the
greatest care and. tiutjon, was at all
times exercised.
But the hardy sailormen of the
United States coast guard are accus
tomed to danger and during the war
when the service became by act of
congress an integral part of the mili
tary forces of the United States it
hunted submarines just as diligently
as it had hunted dangerous bergs for
a few years previous. When the war
ended and the ships and men of the
service again oame under the direc
tion. X -til a, treasury department la-
stead of taking a rest, after their
constant and strenuous war work, the
men of the coast guard again started
out last spring ieeberg hunting and
only recently returned to their home
station to prepare far further voyages,
after several months' of very hard,
work and the accomplishment of
much good ia the" guarding of the
trans-atlantlo, steamship Unea from
shipwrecks.
Of all the darfng work undertaken
by the United States coast guard
cutters, none requires mora serve,
hardihood and expert seamanship
than the Iceberg hunting. Storms,
fogs and cold weather are of constant
occurence off the Grand Banks of
Newfoundland, even la summer, and
ice In vast quantities and dangerous
shape la-almost -cons tan tljj floating
down from, the Arctic. While it is
the duty of most mariners to avoid
this ice as much as passible, it is the
work of the coast guard patrol to
search out this ice. and mix right in,
with its dangerous company nq mat
ter what weather conditions may bo
and discover every particle of infor
mation possible about it so that it
may be wirelessed to the ships of all
nations in the trans-atlantio lases In
which they may be traveling, for iq
be forewarned la to avoid aocidents
such, as the 'Titania disaster.
One tradition pf the sea in refer
ence to iee bergs which the patrol hat
smashed is that contrary te the belief
of most sailor men there is no ap
preciable change of temperature, air
or water when approaching a berg. If
fresh, wind, be flowing; and, a, ahljj
gets within 100 yards or ae to lee,
ward the crew experiences a sensa
tion of cold, but the thermometer may
not register any orop. And when a
ship unwittingly approaches ' that
close to a berg, she would, be ia
serieus danger. Birds, as some sailors
affirm do not indicate the presence
of ice. They are more numerous
around vessels where they can find
something (o eat Agin, there is no
iceblink over a berg. In brief, in
hunting icebergs the mariner must
to a very great extent depend qn his
eyesight alone.
Reverting tQ the history of the
patrol (t la interesting to learn just
how the whole thing came about.
Be gucoeesful ia warning steamers
of dangerous ice were ths cruisers
Chester and Birmingham, who ' first
took up the patrol of the ice regions,
that, in the spring of lslt marine in.
terests again applied to the navy de
partment to perform the Ice-patrol
duty, but that department had no ves
sels te spare for the purpose. Applica
tion was then made to the treasury
department and the secretary of the
treasury selected the revenue cutters
Seneca and Miami, for the work.
At the international conference on
tie, safety- i JUe at eea which, was.
convened. In London on November 12,
1913, the subject of patrolling the Ice
regions was thoroughly discussed,
and the convention signed on January
20. 114, by the representatives of the
various maritime powers of the
world, provided far the inauguration
of an International derelict destruc
tion, lea observation, and Ice patrol
service, consisting of two vessels
which should patrol the ice regions
during the season of danger from ice
bergs and attempt to keep the trans
Atlantio lines clear of derelicts dur
ing the rest of the year. The govern
ment of the United States was in
vited to undertake -the management
of this triple service, the expense to
be defrayed by the 13 powers inter
ested in trans-Atlantio navigation in
a fixed proportion which was def
initely agreed upon, subject to rati
fication by the law-making bodies of
the governments concerned.
Scientists Assigned to Work.
Unfortunately this agreement did
not ge into effect until July 1. 1915,
and as this made no provision for
Continuing ths ics patrol during the
season of 1914 and 1915 the govern
ment of Great Britain on behalf ef
the several powers interested, made
inquiry early la 1314 Uncle, Sim
as to whether the United States
would be disposed to undertake the
work at once under the same mutual
obligations as provided in the con
vention. The proposition was favor
ably considered by the president and
he directed that the revenue cutter
service begin as early as possible in
February, the international ice ob
servation and patrol service. On
February 11 orders were Issued to fit
out the Seneca tor that duty and the
next day she sailed for the Grand
Banks.
Upoq the request of the secretary
of the treasury the secretary of com
merce detailed scientists from the
bureau of standards for taking mete
orological and oceanographical obser
vations and collecting specimens of
plankton.
These scientists accompanied the
Seneca throughout the ice patrol sea
son. The data they gathered has
proven of great value in clearing up
many of the problems ef ice move
ment and ocean currenta
By the end of the season of 1914 the
ice patrol had been developed into a
most efficient service and it was car
ried en in a most helpful manner to
navigation during the seasons ef 1915
$a&, 34. Petite Ji tremendous
drains made by the great war. on the
treasuries of most of the nations in
terested in the ice patrol they con
tinued their payments to Uncle Sam,
except Germany and Austria Hun
gary who refused to pay their share
on the ground that they had no com
merce on the seas, and that the serv
ice could be of no use only to their
enemies. Little Belgium on the other
hand kept right on paying her quota.
By the spring of 1917 we had be
come involved in the war and all the
ships of the coast guard cutter were
too busy with naval duties to engage
in the ice patrol. Thus for two years
it was abandoned, to be re-established
last spring and probably bo
continued from year to year indefi
nitely. ' All lea Information collected by the
vessels on Ice observation and ice
patrol duty, whether from original
observations or from authentic re
ports of other vessels, is sent out
broadcast by wireless twice a day.
Each message is repeated three times
using 300 meter waves in the first set
of warnings and (00 waves in the
second. If the ice conditions are un
usually serious, messages are sent
more frequently sometimes aa often
aa pnee-aa hour.