11 LONG, GRACEFULLY CLINGING, GREEN CHIFFON TEA GOWN CHARMING FOR AFTERNOON PARTIES Summer Shawl and Coat Negligees Owe Inspiration to Chinese Mandarin Coats Worn for Past Several Seasons. .yLortw c-eon W.T5TCint f '-- ' ill! ' "Vii f- " f ! ! " t - J? ' k " K . it - i i' 31.1. ' 1 , ' ' . - r - ill ? I L t - v r -lijasSMSSsaar ' L ,' . f ' ' ' J " . '' . - , ' ' " ' " j j ;V . ' "A v I , ; .. f - ; !, ; v I - . - ? -U f . -l ENCH.NTING in line Is this tea Frown for a summer afternoon. Material could scarcely be draped more elmply. yet it is a drapery ar ranged with utmost skill, for the gown clings to the figure while seeming to floow loosely away from it. Nile green chiffon was used for this beautiful tea gown and there is a panel of silver gray crushed velvet at the front a feature that adds to the formality of the garment. A strip of the velvet is attached to the short train at the back, and both this strip and the panel are stenciled in gray-green. The tea gown is very long, dragging gracefully about the feet. Some of the summer negligees look exactly like flimsy shawls worn over pretty petticoats: but shawl and petti coat are all one garment and the drap ery is arranged to stay when the negligee is put on or off. This charm ing model has a shawl of pale pink chiffon most gracefully draped from the shoulders and the trimming is looped silk fringe pale pink also. The foundation slip is of cream point d'esprit embr- idered with pale pink silk dots. My lady changes from her street boots to pink satin slippers when she dons this engaging boudoir costume. The coquettish coat-negligees owe their inspiration to Chinese mandarin coats, which have been worn as negli gees for several seasons. But far pret tier and more feminine is a coat like this one, of soft shell pink crepe de chine edged deeply with ecru silk lace. Swinging tassels on coat, sleeve and collar weight the silken fabric grace fully. Quite a novel idea is the criss cross tucking of the crepe de chine skirt, which is attached to walsted upper part that jnder the loose coat. a ehort-invieible PORTLAND. Or., July 10. Win vou Kindly tive a recipe for old-fashioned rasp berry vinegar? Thanking you in advance. MRS. B. C. C. RASPBERRY vinegar For every box of raspberries allow about Vz cup good vinegar. W ash and pick over the berries, place in a crock, mash thoroughly and add the vinegar. Let stand -4 hours, then drain and measure. For every three cups mixed juice and vinegar allow 2 cups sugar for thin or three for thick syrup. Heat until the sugar is dissolved, boil up once, strain and bottle, using steri lized bottles and new corks. Cover the corks with parafine. Store in a cool, dark place. Use diluted to taste with any charged water or with ice water, or with hot water for a beve rage. The thick syrup may be used also with ice cream or in tart fruit cock tails or with waffles, hot cakes. York shire pudding or pancakes, or as sauce for any very plain steamed or baked pudding. " White wine vinegar" was generally called for in the older recipes. For those who do not care for the vinegar flavor in the syrup a solution of citric acid (made so as to give about the same acidity as ordinary vinegar) may be used instead of vinegar. In some of the older recipes the mix ture of vinegar, sugar and juice was boiled down to a very thick syrup to save bottle space and insure keeping. By this method of course much of the fresh raspberry flavor was dissipated, though the syrup was safe, conveni ent and gave a very acceptable, though oversweetened drink. By m o "d e r n methods, however, fruit juice can be put up without actual boiling (as ex plained recently in this column) and a far more delicate and wholesome product is possible. A. mixture of tresh raspberry juice and either loganberry or red currant juice (to give the desired acidity to the rather "flat" raspberry juice), sweetened according to taste and the purpose for which it is to be used, is generally to be preferred to the "old fashioned vinegar." Blackberries treated in the same way as the raspberries or combined with raspberries also give a good "shrub" or vinegar and will give color and a mystrious "tang" when combined with other fruit juices in fruit punch or fruit cocktails. Let me know if you need directions for putting up fruit juices without vinegar. PORTLAND, July 6. T deMre to express my thanka for your kind answer through The Oregontan ot my recent inquiry re garding the recipe tor making enchilada-de-huevo. I deaired especially to know the formula for making the dtsb, which Is In the nature of an omelette with a Spanish auce. "We hav often enjoyed the same at one ot the Portland grills as wtU as at Seattle under the above name. Thanking you very kindly. MRS. J. P. L- I hope the recipe I gave resembles to some extent at least the dish you had in mind. Did you see another recipe sent in by a correspondent re cently? Here is another one, con tributed by Mrs. T. D. P. Knchiladas. Mrs. T. D. P. Cut six large red chile peppers in halves and remove the veins and seeds. Cook in boiling water 15 minutes, then press through a sieve or colander. The mix ture should be rather dark and thick. Mix together with an equal quantity of tomato pulp, in which a clove of garlic has been cooked, add salt to taste. Use the sauce like this, or sea son it with & little marjoram. For hard boiled eggs. cup stoned, ripe olives, chopped. 2 tablespoons chopped raisins and one or more chopped onions to taste, mix, seasoned with salt and just moistened with a very little of the sauce. Have ready also plenty of dry grated cheese. Now make the enchiladas as follows: Mix cup cornmeal with 1 cup flour and V4 tea spoon salt. Make Into a smooth, thin batter with 2 well-beaten eggs and 1 cup milk. Put about hi tablespoon olive oil or lard in a frying pan. 6 or 7 Inches in diameter, using only enough oil to grease it well. When hot pour in barely enough batter to cover the bottom of the pan to make a very thin cake. If you put in too much batter, pour it back quickly, or the cake will be heavy and soggy. When one side is cooked, shake the pan until it is free, then turn or toss it and cook for a moment on the other side; but the cake sho.uld be so thin as to be really cooked through when baked on one Bide. Put the cake in a platter and spread it with a little of the filling, sprinkle with cheese and pour a spoonful of sauce over it. Then make another cake and repeat. You may either roll each filled cake and set them aide by stde, or you can pile them up with the filling between ike a large cake, and cut like a Die. When all are finished pour the rest of the sauce around and heat through in the oven if necessary. Garnish with ripe olives and grated cheese. the filling have ready - cup cold chopped dark chicken meat, 2 chopped or traditional family reciyca call tor NEWPORT, Or., July . will you give me a recipe for gingerbread made with sour cream? If you have any other sweet bread feoffee cake) made with our cream 1 would like to have It. too. And please repeat the rules for soda and baking powder, how to translate one Into terms of the other, with quantities far each cup of flour. It is so long since I have done any cooking that 1 have quite forgotten your directions. With many thanks (or past help. RAG V. B. Rich Sour Cream Gingerbread. 1 cup molasses. U cup sugar. 2-3 cup thick sour cream, 2-3' cup thick sour milk, Hj level teaspoons soda, 1 tea spoon ginger (or made to taste), 1 tea spoon cinnamon. 2 well-beaten eggs, about 3 cups sifted flour. Mix to a medium drop batter. Bake (in two loaf pans or in a sheet in a baking pan) in a moderate oven. Plainer Sour Cream Gingerbread. t cup molasses, cup sugar, i cup sour cream, 1 cup sour milk. 1 egg, 1 caspoon each ginger and cinnamon, about 3 cups sifted flour. Mix slightly stiffer than for the mixture given above. In using soda a good practical rule is to estimate the amount of gas given off by one level teaspoon soda (when com pletely neutralized by an acid) as being approximately equivalent to that given off by 4 scant teaspoons (or 1 level tablespoon or 1 "heaped" teaspoon) baking powder. This is about the right amount for leavening one pint of flour to be used in a very plain flour mixture without eggs and with little shorten ing, such as biscuit dough. The propor tion of baking powder for one pint flour tends to decrease gradually with an increased amount of shortening or of eggs, until in such mixtures as puff paste, pound cake or rich sponge cake no baktng powder at all Is needed. A common fault is to use rather too much baking powder or other leavening, in cake mixtures with plentiful amounts of egg and shortening (thus causing a coarse dry texture, or in extreme cases a fallen cake) and somewhat too little leavening in plain biscuit doughs, eggless cakes and dumplings, thus caus ing a heavy, soggy texture. In using soda to replace baking pow der it must be remembered that while soda is decomposed by heat and gives off some gas. so that a little "raising" would be done by soda alone, the re sulting residue gives a yellow color and soapy taste: while the amount of gas Is smaller than when the soda is neutralized by an acid. This fact was not well understood by our grand mothers, so that many "old-fashioned I I ' vice tke We lor your siEc stockings ! After every 'wearing, dip than in these delicate suds SILK stockings should never be left un laondered after a single wearing, as per spiration attacks the fibre and weakens it. Freshen them, the moment they get soiled, in pure Lux suds! Lux comes in delicate white flakes that dissolve instantly in hot water. You simply toss a table spoonful into hot water and stir up a rich lather. Then add cold water until the suds are lukewarm and in your stockings go! Don't let another pair of your silk stockings be ruined by perspiration. Get Lux today from your grocer, druggist or department store. Lever Bros. Co., Cambridge, Mass. A few don'ts for silk stockings Never wring sCk stockings. Wringing injures the fibre. Just squeeze the water out gently. Always use a warm iron, never a hot one. Heat injures silk fibre and yellows white and delicate colors. Spread clocked stockings on a towel, and roll immediately to dry. Iron while still damp. This will keep the clocks from running. there is KonnNO roit rore fabrics ukb LUX ! YOU CAN TS.UST ANYTHING TO LUX THAT FURS WATER ALONB WONT INJUR". an excessive amount of soda, some times without any acid, or with a very unsuitable proportion of acid. One level teaspoon soda will be neu tralized by approximately 2 cuds well clabbered sour milk, or 2'm teaspoons cream or tartar, or 1 teaspoon tartaric acid, or 1 cup strongly acid molasses. or two cups weak molasses, or one to two cups smooth tart apple sauce, the latter varying according to its acidity. inus it you are going to use soda and sour milk for egg pancakes in which you will have one pint flour, one teaspoon soda will give you gas enough to leaven the flour; and as you will need almost if not quite a pint of thick sour milk to make the batter. your proportion will come out about right without the addition of more acid. But If you are going to make biscuit dough with soda and sour milk, the problem Is different. You need the gas irom one teaspoon sode for your Dint of flour; but you will not use the pint of sour milk necessary for neutralis ing It probably only about one cup (the exact amount will of course depend upon the strength of the flour used). Consequently, you should either use additional acid (in the form perhaps of cream oi tartar) to be right for the teaspoon soda left unneut rallied, or else use only H teaspoon soda and add two scant teaspoons baking powder to make up the required amount of gas for your pint of flour. Or else leave the soda only partly neutralized and have rather heavy biscuits with a "soda flavor." Carrying this easy approximate rul in your head, it becomes possible to use any old amount of sour milk or to sub stitute sweet milk for sour in mixing plain doughs and still retain the right texture. For Instance, in using the gingerbread recipe given above, suppose you bad no sour milk on hand. One cup sour milk neutralises teaspoon soda: so will 1 1-lti teaspoons cream of tar tar. Very well. Leave the soda as it stands In the recipe, use sweet milk or water tor cold coffee or cold tea if you like) and add 1 1-lt teaspoons cream of tartar. Tou will still have the soda lully neutralised. and the proper amount of gas evolved. But suppose you have no cream of tartar bandy? Then omit the , tea spoon of soda that the cup of sour milk would neutralize and add enough bak ing powder to yield the same amount of gas, namely, two scant level tea spoons, and the result will be nearly if nut quite the same.. In using sour cream more "Judg ment is needed and any recipe is like ly to be a bit "chancy," because the exact amounts of fat and acid are likely to vary- more in different samples of cream than of milk, but with these gen eral principles in mind It is not hard to substitute In any recipe sour cream for the required shortening, part of the wetting and (except in very rich mix tures) part of the acid element of the leavening. I am not very clear as to whether the sweet coffee cake with sour cream that you ask for is wanted with or without yeast. Perhaps you would not mind writing again. Sour cream could be used in a number of coffee breads. Hour cream is In fact a most valuable asset. If very slightly soured it can be whipped with a very minute amount of soda, added very cautiously to re move the acid taste (use Just as little as possible) and then if sweetened and flavored it will frequently "pass" as sweet whipped cream in a filling for cake or a "sauce" for Puddings or fruit dishes. If too sour for this, it can be whipped and combined with salt, lemon vinegar, mustard and pepper or paprika (with or without a raw or cooked and sieved egg yolk) to yield an excellent salad dressing. If the sour cream fla vor Is not liked In this and is not suf ficiently disguised by the other acids and flavorings, use a tiny pinch of aotla in It before adding in vinegar or lemon Juice. If very sour it makes excellent cream cheese. Simply add salt to taste and hang it up In a small cheesecloth sack to drip until of desired firmness and "ripeness." Then of course It can be used in plain doughs, gingerbreads, raisin breads, cakes, cookies or pastry, or if the quantity is not too small the family can be treated to some per fectly fresh butter, churned with an egg-beater. PORTLAND, July 14. Please give direc tions for making pepper mango pickles. Thanking you, "HOL'SEWlKti." Pepper mangoes. Soak' firm, "square nosed" peppers of even size for 24 hours In "brine to float an egg.' Cut a slit in one side, or cut off the top (saving it for a lid) and remove the veins and seeds. To estimate the amount of filling needed, fill the pep pers with water in rinsing and empty each one into a bowl. You can then see approximately how many cups of filling will be necessary, and thus save mixing up too much for the size of your peppers. Use any of the following fillings: Mango filling No. 1. Chop firm white cabbage, and for every cup cabbage allow one-fourth cup each chopped cel ery, green cucumbers and green toma toes with one tablespoon chopped onion, or more or less to taste. Kor every pint of the mixture allow one teaspoon mustard seeds and two tablespoons oil, Sprinkle the chopped vegetables light ly with salt and let stand four hours, then drain thoroughly, or let stand over night, rinse and drain. Mix the seeds and oil with the vegetables and pack into the prepared peppers, sewing them up or tying on the tops with twine. Filling No. 2. Chop one large head of firm white cabbage and soak in brine over night. Drain, and for every quart chopped cabbage add one-fourth pound seeded and chopped raisins, two to four ounces seedless sultana raisins, four tablespoons mustard seeds, three tablespoons celery seeds, half. cup (or more to taste) grated horseradish, one tablespoon turmeric, half cup chopped pickling cucumbers, one-fourth cup small nasturtium seeds (may be omitted. one-fourth cup sugar, one fourth cup oil. half teaspoon each nut meg and ginger, one chopped onion if liked. Killing No. S. To every pint chopped cabbage add one pint chopped celery, one pint chopped green tomatoes, one pint red (but firm) tomatoes, half pint grated horseradish. one-fourth cup sugar, two tablespoons mustard seeds, one clove of garlic (if liked), two table spoons oil. Chop the vegetables, sprin kle with four tablespoons salt- L.et stand over night, drain and mix with the other Ingredients. Filling No. 4. Same as No. 3, above, but without the garlic; add one cup chopped cucumbers In place of one-half pint green tomatoes. Add also one cur? chopped raisins and a little mace and ginger, if liked. After filling the peppers and secur ing with twine, place them In an un chipped granite kettle, cover with warm vinegar and let stand over night. Next day pour off the vinegar, reheat it and pour again over the peppers. Do this three times In alL Then pack in layers in a stone crock, cover with fresh spiced vinegar, use a weighted plate to keep the pickles below the vinegar, cover closely and let stand about six weeks before using. If a sweetened pickle is desired, add sugar to tarte to the spiced pickling vinegar. If a yellow color is wanted add one or more tablespoons turmeric Excellent material and excellent lines are excuses for a suit's acvera simplicity. Sashes to Match Material Popular This Summer. Voile. Gingham or nisalty May Be led la Pretty Kirerts Black. Sweaters Smartest (.amril of tke Sraasa, HEMMED sashes of the material matching the frock are very smart this summer. When you buy voile, gingham or dimity for a midsummer frock, get a yard or two extra to make the sasn. Such a aash should be about nine inches wide and finished with a narrow hem all around. Some women double the material and stitch and turn-over the fabric for the sash, but these double sashes are never as light and graceful as the single-width sash, daintily hemmed along the edges. Fashionable boot shops advertise for summer smartness sport oxfords of white canvas or buckskin, dancing pumps of patent leather with huge sparkling buckles, and for the street very aristocratic buttoned boots with tall heels and long, slim toes, the vamp of kid. patent leather or dark brown calfskin, the buttoned top of brocade, light suede or mahogany colored twill. ... Lovely little orasndy frocks for sum mer afternoons are made with skirts tucked from hem to knee, a group of tucks around the loose sleeve and across the top of a ribbon-supported camisole of organdy which ehows through the sheer bodice. Of course a sash of organdy or ribbon finishes off the girlish effect. And speaking of ribbon sashes, be sure and have double faced satin ribbon this season. No other sort has distinction. By all means have a black sweater if you would be excessively smart. Younger women are wearing black crc cheted or knitted slip-on sweaters, sometimes with sleeves, sometimes in sleeveless style, with white sport skirts A smart black patent leather belt holds the black sweater trimly at the waist line. Black pumps and white silk stock ings complete the modish magpie ef fect. Very cunning, for tiny laddies, are knitted worsted costumes that Include sweater, cap and very short breeches) that leave dimpled knees bare, though ribbed wool sox are worn in sporty, effect with sturdy little tan oxfords. The modem child never catches cold in his knees so universally are short socks worn by small children now; and the running knitted suit for sprinc days Is a quaint and charming addi tion to the juvenile wardrobe. - 7 7 irst ftaby Food? WHEN I wanted to wean my baby and find a food which. would agree with him as well as., my own milk had done, I asked my doctor, "Who made the first baby food?" ' Nestle-," he said. "Thev origi ns ted the modified powdered milk form of bby food many years ago, and now it has the largest sale of any baby food in the world." Then they miut know how to feed babies, I decided. And so it turned o; t. For my baby didn't seem to feel any difference at all when we changed to Nestle s Milk Food and ail my fear and worry was rone. That is why I wanted you to know about Nestle' that it is simply pure sweet milk in powder form already modified easiest to digest because the tough curds are broken up and sure to keep your baby safe summer and winter. No (terms can get in, because you just add water and boil, and your baby is the smiling happy morsel of humanity you want him to be. I know the Nestle Company will be gjd to help you as they helped me if you will fill out and send the coupon below. They will send you free, enough N title's Food for twelve feedings and a Mother's Book by specialists on bow to take care of your baby. They want your baby to smile, too! 2L Nettle's is pure milk in powder farm thst Is already modified rod dees mat require the further addition of milk. AIwsts pure and safe, alwsre sniform, and free from the durers of home modification, Nesrie's has steod the test at three (eacnrieae and aaj tUsy lit Urtm iu mf my iiy fmd a Ut mmrli. - ) FREE! Enough Nestles for T T? C'TT T Q 12 feedings. Send the coupon. lj I J. iLj l3 MILK. 4QA yri Bsmt's Pees Comtawt inr. SIS Call Bids.. (-! Francisco. Cat. Pima sat km mi IMS trial ctst ft rrjTi io3.o