-7
THIS SMALL MOLESKIN WRAP FOR SUMMER WEAR
FASTENS ON THE LEFT AND HAS A FOX BORDER
The Sport Girl la Running to the Peacock for Colors for' Her Sweater and Hat Mushroom Poke Mounted on
Bandeaux Are Very Stylish.
THE SUNDAY OBEGONIAN, PORTLAND, JUNE 8, 1919.
nil K-r? ---..-
v-vJ. V' - -v-
A
SMART small wrap of moleskin,
for all-summer wear laps across
the front and fastens far toward
the left side quite the latest idea in
wrap-fastenings just now. The skins
are arranged in opposite directions,
giving a very attractive striped sur
face and the graceful little wrap is
bordered at the top with fox; one calls
It a border rather than a collar, for
the fox runs across the almost straight
edge that forms the top of the gar
ment. The little hat with its chantilly
lace drapery and wreath of roses and
white gardenias is a dainty companion
for the dressy fur wrap.
Talking of bright colors this sum
mer, here is the sport girl viewing a
tennis match from the country club
veranda. . Her silk sport sweater is a
rich peacock blue, and her sport hat
is made of gold colored straw of very
soft and flexible quality, embroidered
with orange and peacock blue chenille.
Around the hat is tied a new sort of
trimming ribbon a tiny cord of black
satin which tones down the bright
hues of the hat into distinguished
smartness. With the gold and blue
sport hat and sweater she wears a
white satin sport skirt and buttoned
shoes of white buckskin.
Some of the little mushroom pokes
are mounted on bandeaux that fit
closely over the hair, the mushroom
brim flaring above. This attractive
hat. a model in point, is of fine cream
milan faced tinder the brim with pale
pink satin. The bandeaux matches the
satin brim facing. Nattier Slue ribbon
makes the crown bow and 'is looped
over the bandeaux. The flowers in
clude -blush roses, tea roses, forget-me-nots,
heliotrope, cyclamen and
leaves and buds made of pale green
satin.
Auction Bridge
W:
YN.VB FERGUSON in
his little
' gives the
book, "Auction Bridge,
following excellent rules In a
mewhat terse fashion which cannot
il to draw attention. They are rules
ith which every player should be fa
iliar. 'It is dangerous sometimes to lead
singleton when your partner has
een taken out of his no-trump bid.
ou will frequently find that your
ngleton is of the suit in which your
artner is weak and the suit your
pponents want led.
Don t be afraid to lead tnrougn tne
trong high cards in the dummy.
'When the bidding has carried the
d up to four or five, don't hesitate
bout playing your ace to save a little
lam. Play it or you may be ever-
stingly too late.
"Don't put your partner "under the
ammer." II he nas made a ma over
our opponent's original declaration.
on't let the dummy in to lead through
our partner's strength. Play your
ards to make the opponent lead up to
our partner.
When your opponent has won the
id with a suit bid it is reasonable to
uppose that his hand was not strong
nough for no-trumps. Play all the
me to make the strong hand use his
umps; keep at it.
"Assuming that your opponent has
nly five or six trumps (five is about
he average), you can readily see how
ainful and expensive it is for the op
onent if you keep pecking at his
rumps. iorce the declarer s strong
and.
'When you are dummy, watch every
lay. See to it that your partner does
ot revoke. If he does it is largely
our fault. Look lor revokes all tne
me. The declarer's revokes can be
orrected in time and will not count
ainst him if his partner (the dummy)
alert. Stay on the job when you
re dummy and do not leave your seat
ecause you are not playing the hand.
Vatch for leads out of turn by your
pponents and keep your eyes open
or exposed cards. as flummy, you
ave great opportunities for discover-
ng these infractions of the laws and
ou have the right to call your part-
attention to them. It is your
usiness and duty to do it. However,
ou are not permitted to tell your
artner th,at he is about to lead out
f the wrong hand.
Many players see no reason or ex-
use for playing tne King on tneir
artner's ace when their partner has
d the ace against the adversaries'
o-trump declaration well, here it is:
our partner will not lead the ace
nless he also holds queen, jack and
hree or four others or tne suit, lie
vants to find the king, wants to get
out of the way before his reentry
s gone.
"Learn all the leads. IT you aon t
now them, you are hopeless and your
ad will probably deceive your partner
n Intentionally.
"If you cannot go game don't take
our opponents out of a minor suit bid
hem there is no score.
"Don't leave your partner in with
is no-trump bid of you have a big
and containing six or more hearts or
pades. Remember that Auction players
s far out as Paducah. Ky., are now
idding Ahe famous well known weak
o-trumper sometimes called the 'no
rumpette.' Don't worry a bit if your
pponent has overcalled your partner's
ue no-trump bid with a minor suit,
low on earth can the opponents go
acit if your partner has even a two
oom and bath, with a kitchenette no
rump. Don't bid your head off against
club, or diamond declaration. Take
. il teS" A"tr III
If. .-4r k -
I i i v " A 1
I 4 -rz-Z.- - ,
V- ? . -
a good look at your partner when his I
no-trump has been overcalled. The
over-bid may be just the thing that
your partner will enjoy."
Referring to the rule first given, It
is undoubtedly true that most players
at a declared trump lead a singleton
if they have one, regardless of all other
considerations. Many players in fact
seem incapable of getting more than
one viewpoint at a time. If they hold
a singleton this is the one thing para
mount in their mind. They quite ig
nore the other and important fact that
their partner, the no-trump bidder has
been overcalled and -that this very lead
is likely to work against them and to
the opponent's advantage. "
The rule to lead through high cards
in the dummy hand, in other words,
in the hand of the second player, re
fers more particularly of course to high
cards not in sequence, as ace, queen;
ace. jack; king, jack; king, ten; queen,
ten; king and small; queen and small,
etc To lead through a high card
sequence as ace, king or even king,
queen, rarely attains the object de
sired, that of enabling your partner
to win the trick with a comparatively
small card, and still perhaps retain the
command, or at least high cards df the
suit.
Referring to the third rule, there are
few players I Imagine who have not
had the dolorous experience of "carry
ing home aces." when the play of such
cards at the right moment could easily
have prevented this. There is a certain
psychology about auction and kin
dred games, as in all things in life, and
if one could but sense when the psy
chological moment had arrived and
improve it.x the record of players in
general would show fewer failures and
a greater number of successes. When
your opponents have carried their bid
to a high figure, it is well usually to
take every trick In sight as soon as
possible. The situation Is one which
as a rule does not admit of delay. This
is nothing but common sense.
As I have frequently explained posi
tion Is an invaluable factor at auction
and has more to do with a player's
success or failure than the majority
begin to realize. No better way exists
of securing this advantage for one's
aide than a strict observance of the
rules, old as the hills, of leading
through strength, and, conversely, up
to weakness. In the one case you en
able your partner to play after the
strong player and so to play, often, as
simply to overtop the card which has
been played and hold the trick. In the
other case your partner plays before
the weak player and can be guided in
his play by his knowledge of this
player's weakness.
A lead up to weakness la particularly
effective when the fourth player, the
weak player, is the dummy, as In such
cases your partner knows absolutely
just how high he must play in order
ot overreach him. When you sit to
dummy's left. lead the suit, other
things being favorable. In which he has
the least strength, and, when you can
do so without injury to your holding,
lead such card of the suit as beats the
dummy from the start, as Jack when
dummy holds nothing higher, or te
or nine when his cards are under these
cards. Such play, or lead, is in reality
governed by the twofold principle
a lead through strength and a lead
up to weakness, for second player, wh
presumably has some strength in th
suit, often puts up a high card (know
ing his partner's weakness), which
third player, your partner, simply has
to overtop to hold the trick. More
strong hands have become demoralized
by the observance on the part of th
opposing side of these two principle
than it would be easy to enumerate.
Especially toward the end of a hand,
lead a card which you know will be
taken by your right hand adversary
when you realize or suspect it is im
portant your partner should be led up
to. At such juncture lead on the other
hand such card as your left hand ad
versary will win when you desire pos
tion for yourself, you perhaps hold in
a tenace, or second best guarded of
suit.
There are comparatively few players
I think who fully realize the value of
forcing the strong adversaryto trump.
In by far the greater number- of case
a player's bid is upon five cards and
when you force him once his strength
begins to dwindle. If you force him
a Becond time he becomes seriously
crippled, and, particularly if up to this
time nothing has been done to exhaust
you and your partner, he is now as a
rule unable to do so. This very fact
leaves you master of the situation and
frequently enables your side, rather
than the making side, to bring in a
suit or high cards. That the side which
remains with the last trump has great
ly the advantage is as true in auction
as in whist. When I speak of forcing.
I mean by heroic means, by: the lead
of commandite cards, such ards as
will inevitably leave yea with the
trick if declarer fails to trump. If,
knowing him to be void of suit, you
lead a smalr card of the suit in the
hope to force him, you may or may
not accomplish this end. His partner
will be ever on the lookout and him
self play such card as will hold the
trick, if within his power, and thus
save the trump and defeat your ob--ject.
There is but one sure way of ac-compli-hlng
the force, and that is by
the lead of a commanding card. Re
ligiously guard, however, against such
lead as will enable your weak ad
versary to trump. Buch play Is the
opponent's play, not yours.
Referring to the rule which bears up
on unblocking, that is, the play of your
king to your partner's lead of ace when
you hold king and one other only of
the suit, I would explain that while
such play occasionally goes wrong and
leaves the command on the second
round with the adversary. It wins so
much more often than It loses that,
assuming your partner to be depend
able, you should not fall to observe it.
Otherwise you are liable to find your
self in command when you have no
other card of the suit to give him. and
then unless he chances to have re
entry In some other suit, his long
emt fails ta make. II itia luls was
tJ(w riqfti idau io rtasfi idem -
I lytf ? Lmr Sim. Cfc
found to be good In whist where all the
bands are concealed. It surely is a
good one for auction where one has the
advantage of the exposed hand and
can often tell absolutely whether such
play will work to the best interests.
Carrying the principle- still further.
If you hold king- and two small and
your partner leads ace and follows with
queen, thus showing' jack, you should
unhesitatingly win . his queen with
your king, that you may throw him
the lead for the next round with your
small card and thus enable him to
bring in his suit. These cases bear of
course upon the play at a no-trump
declaration, when, as there are no
trumps to slaughter your suit, you
have a good chance yourself to es
tablish and bring In a suit.
"Learn all the leads." The leads are
the alphabet to the game, and are so
simple that the veriest child can grasp
them. Unless they are thoroughly
understood by the two who play as
partners and by this I mean a player
must be as alert to get the proper in
ference from a lead as to make the
correct lead himself it is impossible
to secure co-operation, and the game
generally resolves itself into a single
handed affair. Why so many players.
ACCESSORIES PLAY BIG PART
IN' PERFECTION OF COSTUME
It Is the Woman Who Understands Values in Dress Who Is Always "Chic"
Gloves and Footwear Are Vital.
THE term "values" is of tremendous
Importance to an artist. A paint
ing may be absolutely perfect In
drawing, but unless its "values' are
correct, it lacks interest,, atmosphere.
vitality. And it totally lacks charm.
Values" to an artist are the concrete
expression of finished technique;
"values" mean bringing out the high
lights, subduing objects that are of
minor importance, making shadows
transparent or dense according to their
perspective, leading the eye unfailingly
to whatever Is the chief Interest the
artist's meaning of the picture. Al
most anybody can learn to draw; only
a true artist can master "values.".
It Is the woman who understands
values in dress who Is always "chic"
that Inimitable French term which has
no duplicate in any other language
The woman who understands values
puts a white gardenia in the front of
her black frock and echoes the gardenia
with a pearl pin in her dark hair and
behold the simple black evening gown
becomes distinguished! She who ap
preciates value knows how to pick out
the places in costume where emphasis
should be and to subdue details that
should melt into the general effect. If
everything in a costume is emphatic,
nothing has special interest; if one or
two things are over-emphasized there
is an effect of tawdrinesa. Some women
are born with this nice sense of
values they never make mistakes in
color or in the placing of emphatic
touches; other women have to acquire
the art by long and persevering study.
The best place to study clothes is not
in the shops nnless very high class
and exclusive shops are picked oub
but in localities where well-dres6ed
women congregate; at public entertain
ments of an exclusive or expensive
character, at fashionable weddings and
morning musicales, at country clubs
on gala days and in the restauranta
patronized by the elect.
, SValch. carefully aiat these well-
What shrinks and
stiffens blankets
IT'S rubbing soap on blankets that shrinks and stiffens theml
And using ordinary soap to wash them. That was the old
way, and it was ruinous for woolens. When you rub or twist
woolens, they become stiff, matted and shrunken.
With Lux there's no rubbing. Only sousing in the rich, pure
lather, and gently pressing the suds through the soiled parts.
Lux comes in delicate flakes, which dissolve instantly in hot
water and whisk up into wonderful lather. Lux is so pure,
that it won't hart anything that puro water alono won't
injure. ,
. Wash your blankets this year the Lux way! Have them like
new again. Your grocer, druggist or department store has Lux. .
: Lever Bros. Co., Cambridge, Mass.
Directions
' Use two tablespoonfuls of Lux to
gallon of water. Dissolve in boil
ing or very hot water, whisk into a
thick lather, then add cold water to
make the suds lukewarm. Put the
blankets in. Then squeeze the suds
again and again through the soiled
spots, but do not tub.
There is nothing Lux for
washing woolens!
not only average players and begin
ners, but players who profess to belong
to the first rank, allow themselves to
remain in ignorance of the leads is
quite beyond my comprehension. An
hour's study will enable any one to
master them.
"If you cannot go game, don't take
your opponent out of a minor suit when
there is no score." This is a rule which
needs to be firmly impressed upon the
mind and consciousness of the average
player. Some players so-called have
the bidding fever, and are so reluctant
to yield a bid that they will continue
to bid under any and all conditions,
apparently oblivious ordefiant of, the
fact that the adversaries' bid will not
give them game, and that In all prob
ability they are piling up for them
selves penalties the value of which to
the opposing side it will be difficult,
if not impossible, for them to over
come. Such players when confronted
with their recklessness usually assert
guilelessly that they "only play the
game for fun." The game would be in
finitely better off without such play
ers (?) and it Is devoutly to be hoped
some game will be invented better
adapted to Ifcetr fun-getting proclivi
ties than the scientific, highly developed
game of auction.
dressed women wear. Disc over how
tbey achieve their effects. Do not over
look a string of beaes, or a flower In
a hat or even a hatpin. It is in the
tiny things of dress that great taste
and discrimination or the reverse
can be shown. Note the general color
scheme of a costume; how the color is
focused in a bit of hat-trimming.
necklace, a parasol. Note what kind of
gloves are worn with taupe frocks
blue capes or suits. Note especially
gloves and footwear. A whole costume
may be ruined by discordant gloves.
The hands are always in motion; they
are very obvious , although one does
not realize their presence if they are
perfectly gloved. You may detect
pair of bright yellow gloves as
screaming note of discord in a certain
street costume. Another woman, with
a finer sense of values, may detect a
discordthat seems quite as bad to her.
in the tan kid gloves you wear with
a taupe suit. Tou may think the blue
knob on your umbrella will not matter.
when you carry the umbrella with
green cloth suit, but some woman's
sense of values will be mightily
offended by the trifling detail. Your
whole costume, aside from that blue
umbrella knob, may be perfect, but to
the woman who never makes a mistake
in dress, the blue note will scream
with discord.
The reason so many suburban women,
expensively and carefully dressed, fail
to have the smart urban look and are
recognized as "out-of-towners," is be
cause of their footwear. The suburban
woman seems to have a positive pas
sion for medium heeled oxford ties
with ribbon bows. Now such shoes are
neat and sightly and extremely com
fortable, but they are not smart! They
rob a dressy silk frock or . good look
ing tailored suit of all Its style. The
frock demands dainty buttoned boots
or high-heeled pumps and silk stock.
ings. The suit should be accompanied
by correct walking .boots with mod
erately high heels; or by low heeled
sport oxfords of beautifully polished
tan leatner wicn sienaer pointea toes, i
That is, ii one aims at jjerfect smart. I
Rinse three times in water of tha
same temperature as that ia which
you washed the blankets, dissolving
a little Lux in the last rinsing water.
Do not twiMt. Put through a loose
wringer, or squeeze the wster out.
Dry in the shads in moderate
temperature.
ness .in the ensemoie. 9ust now the
buttoned street boot Is In high favor
and the new models are designed for
wear with formal or semi-formal
costume; high-heeled dainty boots.
with buttoned tops of brocaded cloth
for dressy wear; welt-soled boots with
moderate heels and buttoned tops of
suede for wear with tailored walking
suits. There are white buttoned boots
for white and light colored street cos
tumes to be worn this summer and
for tha smart linen suits and frocks
which are being ordered by women
who are keen for the i.ewest Ideas in
fashion. L4nens are coming in again
since they are once more procurable
or general wear and a month or two
hence you will see many cool, attrac
tive linen suits and frocks in town
and at the summer resorts.
Brooches, bracelets, ear-rings, neck
laces particularly necklaces have
great value as "'value" givers to
the costume. The string of pearl beads
ith a black frock is a notable ex
ample of this. Let the woman who ha J
black frock and a string of pearls
add a few "echoing" touches say a
white pearl pin, white kid gloves, a
white feather in the black hat and
white boot-tops and where Is the dis
tinction of that costume? Gone entire
ly! The "value" of white as a con
trast has been lost by overdoing the
contrast. Anything that produces a
"spotty" effect in costume should be
avoided. Focus the contrast in one
strong touch or two at most. A green
Vheiv I Feed
My Ba
I "LOVE to" feed my baby. It seems
somehow something more than
just, fixing his bottles and giving
them to him.
It seems like giving him actual
health-watching his cheeks grow, pinfc, watching his little arms and
legs fill out and dimple, watching him sleep better and smile oftener,
as he grows stronger and takes a firmer grip on life.
Tt was our old doctor who said,
"Try Nestle' . You know he must
have milk in some fornr and Nestle's
is a food made but of purs milk, only
the curds of the milk are broken up and
made easier to digest.
"It has already added to it Just tha
right amount of cereal just the right
amount of sugar. It comes to you a
clean, fluffy powder in an air-tight tin
all you have to do is add water and'
boil. There are none of the germ
dangers of raw milk it is the nearest
Katli't is pare milk in powder form that is already modified, and dart not
require the further addition of milk. Always pore and tafe, always uniform,
and free from the dangers of home modification, Kcstle'a haa. Rood the teat of
three fenerations and iai fJay tit Urgca tali if any baby food in tit tPfrU.
FRF.F1 F.nniitfVi fV.crl
for 12 feedings. Send the
coupon I
Hsmf's Fooa CoacrAin-. nc
SIS Call Bids., San Francises.
ria Kad mm b rear boo aad trial
fa.. -
Addre
Ckj
-state.
parasol and a green petticoat will
make a dark blue tailored costume
very chic, but not if there are also
green silk stockings, green grapes on
the hat and a string of green beads
at the neck.
Sharp contrasts are often less pleas
ing than veiled contrasts. A black and
white costume is most alluring when
part of the black is transparent, veil
ing white, and there is a special fasci
nation about a colored sash that passes
under lace or net through part of its
Journey. Hat flowers veiled by tulle
have a distinction surpassing the style
of flowers used unveiled. So it is
with faces; a veil often gives the
charm and interest that would be lack
ing in an unveiled visage. And a
veil helps so much to make the con
tour of the head, hair and hat, small,
compact and smart! Well does the
woman who appreciates values in dress
know the special value of veils, and
she selects many veils, keeping them
all carefully apart, each wound around
its strip of pasteboard so ihat her
costume and her mood may be matched
in veiling without any trouble. And
veils have to do with moods oh, dear
yes! There are days when you could
not wear a dashing sort of veil with
one beauty Bpot over otie cheek you
want a demure, sober sort of veil that
day. And there are days when your
complexion docs not seem up to a
chenille dotted veil one of those open
meshed veilings will suit you far bet
ter. thing I know to mother's milk itself.'
And now 1 love to feed my baby
with those warm, full bottles of, the
food that han taken away fear from'
my heart.
I know the Nestle Company will be
glad to send you enough for twelve
feedings and a Mother's Book by,
specialists on how to take care of your
baby, if you will fill out and send the.
coupon below. Tbey want you to
feedyour baby with health and happw
ness, too.
-NESTLE'S
MILK
FOOD
Cal.
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