TITE SUNDAY OREGOXiAX, PORTLAND, MARCII 16, 1919.
NEW SPRING SUITS MORE GRACEFUL AND LESS
RIGID THAN USUAL TAILOR-MADE COSTUME
Paris Dressmaker Takes Idea From Summer Sport Girl Bernard Model Supplies
Checked Velour Said Brand-New ModeL
Chic Little Easter Suit.
io reduce Jherrt
ft
1. 4: - V ,V hf
- J f i 'ti ' ' fi i ,ttf,'' -
rnUERC la a "drapty" quality about
I this little blue spring suit that
- makes a thoroughly well-tailored
mode), more gracTul and les rigid In
line than the usual tallormade cobtume.
i'ullol. a Paris dressmaker, who
brought out the suit, has takeu an Idea
from the summer sport Ctrl and has
arranged a stole collar just as the sport
maid has arranged a knitted scarf
around her shoulders, ends drawn under
fcelt. The surplice fastening of tne coat
front and the tucked and paneled tunic
effect the ripple overskirt too con
tribute to the grace of the line.
The belt Is Terr cleverly dropped be
low the waistline and carried back from
the front sections to overlap an exten
tion of the back breadth. And where
the lap comes there Is a hidden pocket!
The slash up the bark with piping and
buttons gives variety to the simple
model: ao do the piped panels stitched
against a section of the skirt that is
cut on the bias of the material, alto
gether. It is a very chic little Easter
auit this model from Bernard which is
built of checked homespun with pipings
In navy blue. A poke straw hat with
flower trtmmitiB and stMc-nnan
Try Thia If You
. Have Dandruff
There Is one sure way that never falls
to remove dandruff completely and that
Is to dissolve it. This destroys it en
tirely. To do this. Just get about four
ounces of plain, ordinary liquid arvon:
apply it at night when retiring; use
enough to moisten the scalp and rub it
in gently with the finger tips.
By morning most. If not all. of your
dandruff will be gone, and three or four
more applications will completely dis
solve and entirely destroy every single
sign and trace of It. no matter how
much dandruff you may have.
You mill find. too. that all itching
and digging or the scalp will stop in
stantly, and your hair will be fluffy,
lustrous, glossy, silky and soft, and
look and feel a hundred times better.
You can get liquid arvon at any drug
store. It is inexpensive, and four
ounces Is all you will need. This simple
remedy has never been known to tail.
Adv.
Applying This Paste
Actually Removes Hairs
i Beauty Notes)
Merely applying an Inexpensive paste
to a hairy surface, say beauty special
ists, will dissolve the hairs. This paste
Is made by mixing a little water with
some powdered delatone: after about 2
minutes it ts' rubbed off and the skin
washed. This simple method not only
removes every trace of hair, but leaves
the skin free from blemish. To insure
success with this treatment, be careful
to get real delatone. Adv.
"
i ' - t Kow easily restored to a
C. W natural color without
, .-v4 embarrassing quick changes.
Wf Ay. Aa eTrrnwit di lug.
i -v Makes to fcmir fft and lotrou
J C".X wntu dantlruff. tiamty tablet j
V k . 3 At all druggists c. or corset from
if it'isu'wiet UtTt. is imat Cf
L -
I ! "
i I ;
s, 9". --- . V T
t :
--V ? ti-.-".K 'Vk
buttoned boots will give the finishing
Kaster day touches.
Is there anything crisper. daintier or
more expressive of spring than a new
spring suit of black and vhite checked
material? This one is of checked ve
lour and Is an unquestionably brand
new model, with Its loose box coat. Its
long, braid-bound scallops and scal
loped pocket opening to carry out the
line and Its flat, arrow shawl collar.
The sleeve, aa you see, is cuffless and Is
so tiphtfitting at the wrist that one un
buttons a button to pet out of it. White
gloves, a black straw turban and black
patent leather shoes with pale gray
buttoned tops - complete a fetching
Kaster rig.
Small Bordered Veils Are
Admired by Women.
Shiny t Black Straw Turban la
OIlnc(ly Smart.
SMALL, bordered veils with chenille
dots on a fine mesh are worn with
spring turbans. The veil is just long
enough to go around the hat, the bor
dered edges falling straight down at
the back and not draping over the
shoulders as longer veil-ends do. The
little veil flutters gracefully about hat
and face, and is a most becoming ad
junct to the costume.
-
There Is something distinctly smart
about a shiny new black straw turban
with a February fur coat, and one
meets more of these spring straw hats
In company with midwinter coats than
one does velvet and fur headgear. Most
of the smart little black straw turbans
are in mushroom-poke shape, but there
are very chic side-long models with
brims that shoot off at unexpected
angles, and there are enough tricornes
to prove a recent prophecy that tri
cornes would be very good for the
coming season.
The enterprising manufacturer who
turns out bungalow aprons has achieved
something new and interesting in a
'bungalow house dress" a loose, easily
donned waist and skirt combination
which looks a little more like a pre
sentable breakfast costume than the
straight, pillow-slip shaped bungalow
apron. The new house dress has a
tunic, or hip-length waist, buttoned
down the front, cut V-shape at the
neck and drawn in to the figure at
sides and back by a buttoned-on belt,
the front falling loosely like a jacket.
The edges of this tunic, the breast
pockets, the belt and the elbow sleeves
are bound with a piping of contrasting
color, and there is quite a bit of style
about the comfy little house dress.
A pretty blouse from Paris Is of
saffron yellow georgette crepe. In tunic
style with a cravat belt at the waist
line. The sleeves are long and set in
hemstitched armholes, and the neckline
Is shallow and rounded. An embroidery
in henna and black silk encircles the
neck opening and runs down the front
in an elongated oval motif. Embroid
ered pockets are set slantwise at either
side below the belt.
Vseful Knowledge.
A good Icing can be made with two
or three teappoonf uls of sugar mixed
with spices and sprinkled over the
cake just before baking.
To save work and fuel on Sundays
try having only one or two hot dishes
besides coffee. The rest can all be
made the day before and used cold.
As banana dessert to serve in a hur
ry is made of slices of bread, but
tered and covered with sliced bananas,
the whole browned and served with
maple sugar.
Rhubarb Fritters.
llix together three cnpfuls of flour,
half a teaspoonful of salt and two tea
spoonfuls' of baking powder. Beat
lightly two eggs, add one cupful of
milk and gradually blend the liquid
v itb the flour mixture. Add one table
spoonful of melted oleo, one table
spoonful of molasses and one pint of
drained rhubarb, cut in tiny pieces. Fry
in small, thick cakes on a greased
griddle and sprinkle with crushed
maple sugar as baked. -
t AST weeK i treateu or me ousincos
I double, tho doublo commonly in
a use and best understood. Today
I take up the informatory double.
Concerning the informatory double
there is considerable difference of opin
ion, some warmly advocating it, others
as strongly denouncing it. Among the
well known authorities who have
widely divergent views on the subject
are Milton C. Work and Miss r lorence
Irwin. As it win De imeresuns iu
compare their aiametricauy uiiijuouu
views I give verbatim what each has to
,ay. Mr. work speaKs as ioiiovs.
"An interesting situation arises wnen.
as often happens, the dealer nas oiu
no trumps and second hand also has
no trumper. If he pass, tne one
with no trump is practically sure iu
stand and should the Daiance oi
strength be in his partner's hand he
may get a paltry ou or w,
an opportunity to win tne game. . u nc
bid two no trumps ana nis partner
have a bust he Is apt to ce severely
penalized.
"If, however, he makes a double,
which, being a double of one, is an
informatory double; not a business
double, he tells his partner, 'I have a
hand with which 1 would have bid two
no trumps had this safer declaration
not been available. I wish you to take j
out my double oy oiuuius
trumps or two of your Dest sun,
you may prefer, unless you are so
strong that you are saiiii"
allowing the double to stand we will
secure a penalty worth more than the
"The double is far safer than bidding
two no trumps unless the hand contain
eight sure tricks and it possesses every
j.,ontQIr, nf the two no trump can.
as it is always possible to go to that
d.claration. if the partners bid make
it advisable to do so. A second hand,
wiri. less than eight tricks, bids
two 'no trumps over one no trump, takes
a most unnecessary tisk. ii iw .
cannot rescue and he may go down as
many hundred as nis nana
of eight tricks. It is a bid which
ay lose, but wnicn cannoi.
,e double is different; the partner
th
generally has a suit
which, if it be tne trump, i .
w tricks, which, plus tne live
ti-i-kx in the doubling hand
oi mii . ... i.!.. .,.,11
lakes it improoaDie inn mo
. . hfi Avnensive.
It is auite true tnai mis uuuuio
tjt nft.n
one no trump is so ip'" 8 -
it is erossly abused. A piayer wn.i
i!i.f ... tnimner which contains
best three or four tricks, doubles, finds
his partner with a dusi ana ,s uicU
k., nr king on his left that he
expected to be on his right. As a result
he loses neavuy aim
"A system should not. however, be
abandoned by the sound bidder because
it is at times misused by rash declarers.
The informatory double is a winning
.win rat ion used oniy wnen me
der would otherwise call two or no
trumps; that is, with at least five sure
..iira when over the no trump de-
i,r and with six sure tricKs, piu
potent probabilities wnen meoe
t: o ,-, reversed, i.e.. when' bid by i
player who is on the right of the no
. t .... hats nacDSil
trump ana wnose
the no trump. The aouoie is especially
o.i.r.x.ccmis when the doubler has
.no.h in the two majors.
With consiaeraoie sirensm m m
other three suits, but without a stopper
the declared suit, a aouDie iiioi a
trump) is the proper declaration
over a suit bid. This tells the partner
exactly what the hand contains and
enables him to bid no trump if he have
the declared suit safely stopped: it
not. to declare his long suit knowing
that it will receive able support. When
first lead comes up to instead of
through him, as it would should the
second hand risk a no trump, mis
may enable him to stop an adverse suit
against which he would otherwise be
helpless and may make a no -trump
mccessful wnicn wouia ian ii.
h th second nana. xnis aouoie
ah mil H not be made without real
strength in each of the three suits; it
should guarantee at least five tricks for
the partners declaration, wnaiever n
mav be. This double may also be
made by fourth hand with the same
amount of strength.
So much for Mr. worK s views on i
subject. Now as to wnat miss irwin
has to fiav:
Tiihies mav be briefly aiviaea mio
tarn classes: business aouDies ana
tnrv doubles.
"To mv mind the first class alone
fa worthy of existence and of consid
eration. I use no informatory doubles
and I advise none. But as there are
certain players who do use them, it
will be necessary for my readers to
understand them.
'Informatory doubles are doubles or
one-bids, may: to give information to
one'a partner - and not intended for
business. The- player who doubles
one-bid doesn't want to play it; he al
vivi wants to be taken out. It fol
lows that, if you are nis adversary
you must never take him out (because
that would be to help nimj; ana ii. you
Complexions otherwise flawless are often
ruined by conspicuous nose pores. f '
The pores of the face are not as fine as on
other parts of the body. On the nose es
pecially iy there are more fat glands than else
where and there is more activity of the
pores. These pores, if not properly stimu
lated and kept free from dirt, clog up and
become enlarged.
To reduce enlarged nose pores: Wring a
soft cloth from very hot water, lather it
with Woodbury's Facial Soap, then hold it
to your face. When the heat has expanded
the pores, rub in very gently a fresh lather of
Woodbury's. Repeat this hot water and
lather application several times, stopping at
once if your nose feels sensitive. Then finish
by rubbing the nose for thirty seconds with
a piece of ice.
are his partner, you must never leave
him In.
"Anyone who doubles a one no-trump
is saying to his partner: 'I, too, have
a no-trump hand. Bid two in your best
suit, no matter what it is, for I will
give you general support.' The part
ner thus commanded is frequently
forced to bid 'two clubs' on four to a
seven-spot (or some similar bid), and
is often heavily defeated. All the good
cards have been divided between the
two no-trump hands; the ciub.bid hits
strength in the adverse no-truriiper, in
stead of in the friendly no-trumper,
and the bid goes to smash. I have had
my partner double a 'one no-trump,'
and put it up to me to bid two in my
best suit. I have bid 'two hearts' on
the ace, king, jack, small, and been de
feated by two tricks.
"A far better way of getting around
the same situation is to use your own
no-trumper to play against the adverse
no-trumper and, to hold it down; or
else, to bid 'two no-trumps' against
the adverse 'one no-trump,' if you are
very .'strong, or if the adverse bidder
could take a rubber on his bid. It is
worth a trick or two to play the hand;
you can force the adversary to dis
card on your suits, in place of his
forcing you to discard on his suits.
"The player who doubles a one-bid
in any suit says to his partner: 'I have
a no-trumper excep for -the fact that
I don't stop that suit. Do you?' If
his partner does, all will go well; but
if he doesn't. Heaven help him! He
must bid. But I don't know what to
tell him to bid, I have never seen any
one else who could supply such in
formation. "There are a certain few players who
double a one-bid in any suit, in order
to show a stopper If the partner wants
to go to no-trumps. But the generally
accepted meaning of such a double -is
'a no-trumper except for lack of a
stopper in the suit named.
"1 object to informatory doubles, be-,
cause:
"1. They are unethical. They don't
Sanaa Space torSatm
Eand3 andores of semi-elastic LastLkops Webbing and Cloth do this,
at the same time affording perfect freedom and comfort $6.00.
Now 534 belongs
1 NEMO
YJs. of grateful comfort and support. It guards the health SSZy
jTjTfc and gives good style $6.0a t(V&
Notice the improvement the very first
treatment makes a promise of what the
steady use of Woodburyjs Facial Soap will
do. But do not expect to change com
pletely in a week a condition resulting from
long continued exposure and neglect. Use
tins treatment persistently. It will gradu
ally reduce the enlarged pores and make
them inconspicuous.
Get a cake of Woodbury's Facial Soap and begin
tonight the treatment your skin needs. You will
find Woodbury's on sale at any drug store or toilet
goods counter in the United States or Canada, A
25 cent cake will last a month or six weeks.
The Andrew Jergens Company, Cincinnati, New
York and Perth, Ontario.
mean what they say, and they give In
formation by false (i. e., illegitimate)
bids.
"II. They are tremendously apt to
be inconvenient to one's partner.
"III. The day of forced bids is over.
It should never be resurrected.
"IV. There is always a better way
of getting round the same situation.
"However, there is a certain school
of players -who love false bids and
calls. The moment they are obliged
to drop one set, they rake up another.
They seem unable to grasp, or appre
ciate, the straightforward game. I
have found the consensus of intelligent
and expert opinion heavily against in
formatory doubles. I have seen men
start out with the idea that this game
of informatory doubles was 'the only
game.' And I have seen them find it
so expensive in actual lay that they
have dropped it in disgust. If you
play this game. Or if you meet it, you
must' know what to do. The advice is
easily given: '
"As partner, never pass an informa
tory double, as adversary, never bid
against it.
"And one more bit of advice I will
offer to my readers:
"Let informatory doubles alone."
While Miss Irwin's objections to the
informatory doubles are numerous, her
chief objection lies, it will be seen, .in
the fact that, it imposes an obligation
upon one's partner -which he has no
means of escaping. He must comply
with the demand made upon him. He
cannot leave the double in, therefore
he must bid. This it cannot be denied
is at times an awkward thing for him
to do; nevertheless his partner (the
doubling player) has told him he can
support any bid he may make, so he
should consider that he is bidding on
the strength of his partner's hand, not
on the weakness of his own. While it
is not pleasant to consider failure in
any guise or under any conditions, the
onus -of the failure in such case (if
failure there be) will rest entirely with
his partner, not In any sense with
himself.
I am a strong admirer of Miss Ir
win's clear logic and forceful style of
writing, and on most points pertaining
to the game we are entirely at unison.
The more, however, I have to do with
the informatory double, the more it I
appeals to me and the more I find it to
This iOaftrahtm pictures one model in
each of the three Naa Hygienic-Style
Soviets. All have patented features (or
which there u no extra charge.
No. 322i3probably the corset
most universally warn by stoat
women. It permanently reduces a
prominent abdomen and makes the
figure lighter in weight and smaller
in size $5.00.
No. 511 is one of the most popu
lar Nemo Corsets, It is designed
to reduce and control the figure
that is too heavy below the waist.
554
wtMBtfT Sam
to the Wonder lift Service. It
1 comfort and support. It guards
and gives good style $6.00.
"They make you look and feel jQQ
smaller. They're Self-Arljusta- I 'cn
ble. They come m a variety v U
of styles, and in all sizes." ) $2.00
KYOIENt(rASHIONtNSTrTUTE
be trick-winning and effective, not
only adding variety and interest to the
game, but often resulting !n a good
score, perhaps game it may be tho
rubber game to the side employing it;
the side which otherwise could at best
secure an overstop score only. And
while such score is by no means to be
despised, especially in the ear"'"
stages of the game, game is, or should
be, the goal of all players and this can
be secured only by the side getting the
declaration. The result of the doubk,
to be sure, may be partial game only,
but as Miss Irwin herself says, and as
I think all sound players realize, a
partial gume is greatly to be preferred
to no score at all. With . score, for In
stance, of 18. a players restrictions
with regard to declarations are greatly
lessened, as two of anything will give
him game. With a score of Hi. one of
any bid will give him game,.and a club
bid can accomplish this result as read
ily as a no trump bid. .
The proper use of the informatory
double calls necessarily for the keenest
intelligence. As Mr. Work says, it can
easily be abused. This, however, may
be said of any policy or play known to
tfie gama. When used with proper care
and judgment and discretion, I think it
will be found of the greatest value, and
in my opinion Advanced players should
not hesitate to employ jt. The average
player or beginner should avoid it as
he would a seething fire.
Several examples of the efficacy of
this double have come recently within,
my observation, some of which 1 will
give next week.
Strawberry C'uMurd.
Prepare one generous pint of thick,
boiled custard from one pint of milk,
one tablcspoonful of cornstarch, a
pinch of salt and two eggs beaten with
two tablespoonfuls of sugar. Cook- the
cornstarch with the milk for five min
utes before adding the eggs. Remove
from the fire, cool, flavor with vanilla
extract, and when cold turn into a
chilled freezer. Freeze slowly until the
cream begins to congeal and add one
large cupful of strawberry puree made
from the canned berries pressed
through a potato ricer. Continu
freeze slowly until firm and smooth.
ftiiiiimiK
gives a sense lZi