-THE STJM)AT OREGOXIAX, PORTLAND, JULY
!1, 1918.
ONE OF NEW COLLAR AND CUFF SETS OF
NET OVER FLOWERED MULL PRETTY IDEA
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Layer of Net Is Said to Soften Dainty Flower Pattern and to Give Just' a Hint of Pastel Color "Which Is Regarded
by Persons Who Wear It as Charming.
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APRETTT color !s griverv to a ta!-1
lored costume by on of the new
collar and cuff sets of fine net
veiling- flowered mull. The layer of
net softens the dainty flower pattern
and gives just a hint of pastel color
which is charming-. The set of neck
wear pictured Is made of fine white
net over mull sprinkled with tiny
nosegays of violets and rosebuds, and
collar and cuffs are scalloped at the
edge and finished with overlapping net
friiis. The collar Is In the fashionable
shape, close vto the neck at the back,
and extending- belaw the bust in front.
Eome of the new fichu collars have
ash-ends that go around the waist
and tie in the back like crisp strings
of a lawn apron, others like the fichu
pictured have short sash-ends that tie
at the waistline in front. The dainty
fichu Illustrated is of pale green or
gandy frilled with white net; the inner
collar and sash-ends are of white or
Eandy, the collar hemstitched, the sash
ends picot finished. A crisp, modern
bit of neckwear like this gives Infinite
ptyle to a simple tailleur of dark, ma
terial. Only an expert laundress can handle
a frilly collar, but one of these scal
loped organdy affairs offers no prob
lems and demands no special fluting
or pleating machine for its doing up."
The collar Is made of white organdy
and Is In three overlapping sections,
each section scalloped and piped. Its
tailored effect harmonizes smartly
fwith the feather-trimmed turban and
new cuff-gloves that are buttoned over
ho -wrists of long sleeves.
Explaining the Gender.
She "J never" could . see why they
Call a boat 'she.' "
He "Evidently you never tried to
frteer- one. The widow.
aJ . & - J .. -
to be played at no trumps. It Ss hardly
likely the tinesse of the jacks can be
made, as In order to make It, the play
er who holds the jacks must be able
to get In the lead. At ro trumps' the
hand Is without re-entry unless pos
sibly the king of hearts tan be made to
serve as such. If played at hearts, re
entries can be made by ruffing the
diamonds, so at a trump the Jack suits
would be of greater value than at no
trumps.
Lastly, a weak hand is often ren
dered less weak If It be not exposed.
In such cases the adversaries are often
to a greater or less extent kept guess
ing and at times credit it with greater
strength than It In reality posesses.
When exposed It Is entirely at the ad
versaries' mercy, and, not only this,
but they can often Infer correctly as
to what the declarer holds, by knowing
what the exposed hand does not hold.
If the hand be played at hearts, the
strong rather than the weak hand
will be the one exposed, and since It
justified a no trump bid In the first
place It must have a certain element
of strength which the adversaries will
be unwlllinsr t lead up to. The extra
trick which the "2-heart" overcall In
volve should be more than provided
for by the ruff possibilities of the
hand and its consequent increased
nnmhir of re-entries, admitting,
explained, of the finesse of the Jack.
Takine all things Into consideration.
therefore, it surely can but be appar
ent that the overcall or i nearis,
with such hand as given, ts entirely
rlirht. and that In the greater number
of euch cases the combined Interests
will be better subserved If tne nana
be played at the trump. Particularly
Is this apt to be so In cases where the
trumper Is a tentative one, made in the
conviction that the partner will over
call It if It does not suit his hand, and
ha has anvthinsr to offer as a substl
tute. In cases where the no trump bid
is a genuinely strong one, it will prove
nf orpflt value as a trumo declaration.
as all of the side suits will become of
the same rank after the adversaries
are ehorn of trumps as had the hand
been played at the no trump deciara
tlon.
"When all Is said and done, however,
the mere act of third bidder's over-
calling his partner's no trump does not
by any means prevent the no trump Did
der's going back to no trumps it in nis
Judgment It seem best. Whether or not
he should do so snouia aepena upon
his own holding considered In con
junction with what his partner has
shown regarding his. In this case the
overcall is In a major suit which re
quires but one more trick to go game
than the no trump would require. In
such cases it will generally be found
advisable to let the trump bid stand,
provided the no trump bidder holds at
least two of the Buit named, and thus
Insuring the majority of trumps being
on their side. As the player making
the overcall niay have five of the suit
only less than this number he cannot
have or the overcall would not be war
ranted so It Is Important that the
original no trump bidder hold at least
two, or the side may fall short.
Briefly summed up, then, when the
overcall Is in a major suit, there are
three conditions only which as a rule
Justify the return to no trumps. First.
when the no trump Didder noias a
hundred aces: secondly, when he holds
but one card of the overcall suit;
thirdly,, when he has none of the suit.
.
When the overcall is In a minor suit.
which suit calls for two more tricks
to sro game than no trumps, the con
dltions are different, and the original
bidder should be Influenced to a great
er or less extent by the state of the
score, as well as by nis own noiaing
and his partner's announcement of
lack of strength for the no-trumper.
Under these conditions, especially If
his hand be a bona-fide no-trumper
and if be love score, he will often
be Justified in taking the chances and
going back to no trumps.
TILING INCREASES IN POPULARITY AMONG
RECENT BUILDERS OF MODERN DWELLINGS
New Combination That Is Surprisingly Decorative in Effect -and Less Costly Than All Tile Is Flooring Covered
With Cement Furniture Designs Declared Important.
e7i?d walls and floor ta Summex- Room
REFERRING again to the hand I
, gave last week where the partner
the original bidder, deliberately
raised the bid, though second player
passed, in other words, made a pre
emptive bid, I would say that the act
aroused considerable comment, the
more so, perhaps, as the particular
player was on record as opposed to
pre-emptive bids.
The statement waa .made among
others that the same results would have
been obtained had the pre-emptive bid
been made by the original bidder and
he had started with two spades rather
than one. This is true regarding this
particular case. Suppose, however, the
distribution had been different sup-
fiose, for instance, it had been as fol
ows: V 10 E 4
9 6 5
Q 10 3
J 10 8 6
AQ92 T KJ88
K Q 7 2 A B J 10 3
J952 " Z t AK7I
4 A 7 3
emptive raise, but that the cases are
rare where the original bidder is justi
fied in the pre-emptive bid. This is
but a single example; situations are
constantly arising which substantiate
the soundness of the principle, and il
lustrate the importance of the original
bidder being extreviely cautious in this
regard. A rash . bidder at the start
finds not infrequently that he has gone
beyond his depth, and that in his de
sire to prevent any communication be
tween the adversaries, he has -made a
bid which he would fain recall, but un
fortunately cannot. That the reader
may the more readily compare the two
hands, I. trive again the hand as
originally given:
K10
J
AKQJ7-
8 7 4 3
it develop, on the other hand, that he
held more than two hearts, the pre
ponderance of trump strength would
be greatly on the side of the maker,
and with the holding the original bid
der must have had to warrant the no
trump bid, a good score should un
doubtedly be assured.
With hearts as trumps but one round
of diamonds must necessarily be lost,
so far as the making hand is concerned;
at no trumps every round would be
lost so far as his hand Is concerned.
Jack suits cannot be regarded as asscets
either at a trump or no trumps, though
such- suits are of value at times in a
weak hend as admitting of finesses
towards- the possible ace. king, or ace,
queen, held by the strong hand. In
this particular instance if the hand
There is really nothing In auction
of greater Intrinsic value than the
overcall in a case like the one given
and the surprise Is that its worth is
not more generally recognized. There
are certain .players who, while admlt
lng Its value and welcoming its being
made by their partners when they can
not support the no trump, nevertheless
do not employ it themselves upon their
partner's no-trump call.
Why this is so, whether It is because
of a lingering no-trump obsession,
reminiscent of the days when no
trumps was the only declaration worth
playing or whether it is owing to the
fear of shutting out a really good no
trumper made by the partner, it Is dif
ficult to say.
Neither reason, however. Is worth
considering, and In precisely the same
ratio in which a player appreciates the
overcall being made over this no
trump, when it does not suit the part
ner, should he consider It .would be ap
preciated by this partner when the
partner has made the call. Besides,
as has been explained, the partner has
the privilege of going back to no
trumps if he thinks it best.
The overcall does not necessarily
shut out the no-trumper. As a matter
of fact the prestige of the no-trump
is considerably dimmed in these days
when 12 a trick has been reduced to
10 a trick, and the major suits have
so increased In value that game can be
won at a major suit trump almost as
easily as at no trumps when- the no
trump is a weak one, the overcall often
proves a fortress of strength, and a
sure refuge from annihilation, while
when.lt ts a strong one. the overcall
trump frequently results In as good a
score as though the band had been
played at no trumps.
HAT tiling is sanitary is demon-1
strated pretty thoroughly by its
general acceptance for ordinary
bath rooms, , but that it is desirable
from other points as well seems to be
just dawning upon the home builder's
consciousness.
Tiled walls and floors have more
than one sterling qualification. In rec
ognition of this we have begun to car
ry brick, tile, and cement stone (the
latter includes marble and mosaic) In
to our Interior as well as exterior
decoration. From vestibule to hall
ways have the new quarries come, and
from hallways to living rooms, where
they are greeted with wild acclaims of
approval by the best architects in the
country.
Floors of this character are by no
means cold and cheerless. They may
be covered with as many or as few
rugs as desired, and are In every way
superior to the ubiquitous "hard
wood." They wear better, are cleaner.
and require less care. Think of it. no
more waxing and brushing and polish
ing and careful avoidance of soap and
water! On the contrary a full and
free application of good strong suds Is
permissible with frequency. Scrub
bing brush and mop do their sweet,
clean work without fear of spoiling the
finish.
A brief description of some of the
new tiled rooms will convince that the
charm is both human and substantial.
In the home of a cel.brated" actor the
living room floor is of dull red square
tiles. This room is also used as a
music room, so it is not spoiled by an
abundance of rugs, but decorated with
rugs only at the focal points, the fire
place and doorway. The walls are cov
ered with gold paper and the wood
work is In two tones of light green.
. .
The furniture is a delightful infor
mal mixture of old Enll-h and Italian
types. Between the doors and flanked
by a pair of six-foot carved candle
sticks Is a wonderful old credence, with
a-breadth -of antique brocade draped
back of it. Another piece of old bro
cade lends interest to the great library
table with its burden of books, candles,
etc On a smaller table Is a runner
of Italian filet lace.
Across the space of the room, two
gothic angels on wall brackets gaze at
each other with their sirhtless eyes
embodiments of an ideal. Curious how
these Gothic figures hide their almost
painful beauty from the common kon.
The ascetic only, capabl of full ap
praisement, knows that their virtue
lies in their complete freedom from
sensuality. The ordinary woman with
out past or future Is quick to condemn.
She intuitively finds in the Gothic
forms a mysterious, incomprehensible
adversary one that she promptly ex
cludes with "Goodness, how hideous!
I wouldn't have a thine like that
around my house!"'
A new combination that is surpris
ingly decorative in effect and less
costly than an all tile 'loor a floor
ing covered with cement, with decora
tive motifs in colored tile inserted Into
the cement while wet. A -nan's library
in which such a floor is Installed has
the woodwork of antique oak. Open
built-in bookcases almost line the
walls. There Is a gallery on one Bide,
from which hang some choice tapes
tries. The furniture Is rather severe
old English.
In a more feminine living room that
is paved in small, biscuit colored quar
ries, the furniture is of brown mahog
any, upholstered in damask and vel
vet. Oriental rugs are generously
used. A group of three windows at
one end of the room has the glass in
small panes, and is curtained with sash
curtains of ivory colored silk gauxe
less than a yard deep. No overdraper
tes of any kind. A window seat end
ing in a pair of low bookcases is built
in beneath, the window, over a long,
low radiator that is screened under an
iron grilling.- The latter is painted
old Ivory like the woodwork In the
room. Above the mantel Is a great
9 8
KQ975
10 3 2
a J 10
V A Q J 5 4 2
10 6 3 2
4 9 4
a 6
73
A84
8 6
AK : 9 5 2
Z, it will be noted, is given the same
liand he held originally; his partner's
tiowever, its radically different, and
neither helpful to the spade make, nor
so constructed that he can make
warning . bid. (This could as easily
have been the distribution as any
other).
Had Z. therefore, started with the
pre-empttoe bid of "two spades," the
other players, his partner included.
would have passed and the hand would
have been played at the two-spafle bid.
Beven tricks only could have been
scared, so, as the result of his pre
emptive bid, he would have gone down
one trick. Y's hand is not good for a
aingle trick and all . the tricks taken
are taken by Z. Here again the argu
ment may arise that such distribution
Is unusual, and -that In making a bid
a player has a right to look for a cer
tain number of tricks from his partner.
This, too, is true, but It must be borne
In mind that the greater the number
the bidding player holds, the fewer he
may expect from his partner. Besides,
all probabilities will fail at times and
cases develop where as in this case, the
partner's hand is absolutely nil.
Looking at the question from every
possible standpoint, therefore, it can
not but become apparent that cases
often arise where the partner of the
original bidder should make a pre-
73
A 8 4
8 6
AKQ 9 5 I
A correspondent whose hand was as
follows writes to ask whether her
partner having called "no trumps,"
and second playen having passed, she
did right in making an overcall of "2
hearts."
K97(t
J S 5
8
a J742
Before going into the arguments of
the case. I will say absolutely that she
did the right thing and in so doig
proved herself a sound-and intelligent
bidder. Five hearts to the king, a side
singleton, and two jack suits, the one
positively unguarded, the ether likely
so, do not in any sense constitute help
for a no-trumper. Such hand, how
ever, with hearts as.trumps, may prove
of value. In such case the smallest
card of the trump suit, the deuce,
would have greater value than any
side ace held by the adversary. Should
it turn out that the partner, the no
trump bidder, held himself at least two
hearts, the larger half of the trumps
would lie with the make. Should he
hold but one, the smaller half of the
trumps. would be with it, and it might
develop that the adverse distribution
was four to three, in which event the
long trumps would be with the maker.
A blank suit In hearts the original bid
der could hardly hold or- he -would not
have been apt to call no trumps. Should
GAME OF CHECKERS IS ONE OF
SOLDIERS' POPULAR DIVERSIONS
In Training Camps in United States as Well as in Trenches in France and
in Y. M. C. A. Tents Back of Lines, Boys Spend Hours Enjoying Game.
V
I 4 y.
4 ' js-'-ZX.i'-'-sx.
CHECKERS FOR TRENCHES.
THE good old game of checkers is
coming into its own again and is
proving very popular with the
soldiers. In etery T. M. C. A. hut near
the front khaki-Clad young men, tem
porarily off duty, bend over checker
boards that " may be folded up and
tucked into a pocket , when the game
Is over; and checkers is one of the
favorite forms of diversion in the rec
reation houses at the training camps.
A fine old game is checkers, offering
either- gentle -and unstlmulatlng diver
sion. - or- opportunity for. real mental
concentration, as one chooses. Indeed.
there is a good deal more to the gam
of checkers than one who plays it au
perficially ever dreams of. Problem
almost as deep as chess-board prob
letns may be worked out with the disc
of wood If the players are so inclined
Two of the new camp checker sets ar
pictured.
In one set the checkers fit Into a flat
box which has a compartment under
neath for the folded checkerboard. I
the other set the checkers are in
long cylinder of leather and the check.
erboard, when not in use, rolls up
tightly around the cylindrical cut.
indented panel of fruit and flowers, brackets.
while on the mantel shelf is a short
piece of antique velvet, a pair of Spode
vases, and a pair of small figures.
In lieu of tile or kindred mineral
flooring, the wooden floors are now
being painted in black and white or
gray and white squares. Then, too, for
use in sun rooms comes a good lino
leum In quarry or in lozenge pattern.
This for the purpose is better than
paint, for plants can be watered over
this stuff without harming it -perceptibly.
Painting, of course, mars with.
water spots.
A sunroom with gray and white lino
leum floor covering is furnished in
wicker and plentifully supplied with
palms, ferns, and cunning bird cages.
It has vines climbing about the outer
window panes. Such a room you
might say "decorates" itself. Its
glory is its fresh, cool leafiness.
Recovering an old wooden floor with
wire netting any cement is sometimes
successfully done. A porch that has
been treated in this manner and then
inclosed is furnished in brown wicker.
The inside of the window frames is
painted .bright orange color not the
part of the frame that fronts flatly to
the eye, but that which is at right
angles with the glass. This gives a
fine sunny effect particularly good for
north fronts. In this room India prints
have been used to cover the cushions.
The pattern is in large motifs of black
and orange on a string colored ground.
The rugs are tan fiber.
Illustrated here is a sunroom that
has an immaculate air. The floor is of
blue and Ivory tiles, and the side walls
of ivory glazed brick. The furniture
is painted dull greenish robin's egg
blue. The chair backs have a carved
motif worked into the design, and this
Is painted in well grayed polychrome.
The seats are of hand-made rush. The
light is in an alabaster bowl suspended
by old blue chains. The center light
is supplemented by a wrought iron
standard candle and wrought iron wall
0- 7
'Ytu'J ke-ver J nam
-it ivai iuihtd!"
Sweaters just like new
THEY "washed their, sweaters
hemselves right at home!
With wonderful Lux suds !
And they came out soft fluffy
not a bit shrunken just like the day
they were bought!
Lux is simply wonderful for wool
ens of any kind sweaters, blankets,
babies' clothes, scarfs, everything.
Why wool shrinks
The surface of wool fibre is made
up of tiny overlapping scales, like the
scales of a fish. When you rub wool,
these scales get all tangled and twisted.
When alkali touches them, the fibres
draw up and tighten. Result a stiff,
matted, shrunken garment.
But Lux leaves your woolens like
new because with Lux there is n
ubhinz! Nor one injurious element!
Lux comes in pure, transparent
delicate flakes. They melt the instant
they touch hot water. You whisk them
into the foamiest lather. You soak
the woolens in these wonderful suds.
You don't have to rub them. Lux
loosens the dirt. The dirt drops out
into the suds.
How can they sty so white?
You will never forget your delight
with the whiteness of woolens washed
in Lux. When cake soap is rubbed
on woolens, no matter how carefully
1 m '
you rinse, tiny bits of soap usually
remain in the wool and yellow it.
With Lux that never happens.
The hot water dissolves the delicate
flakes instantly. You let the article
soak in the hot Lux suds until the
temperature is comfortable for your
hands. You work it about in the
thick suds, but don't rub. Then you
rinse it thoroughly in three waters
the same temperature as the first, with
a little Lux dissolved in the last water
to leave the woolens softer and fluffier.
Could anything be easier?
Get your package of Lux today at
your grocer's, druggist's or depart
ment store. Lever Bros. Co.
Cambridge, Mass.
To wash colored sweaters
If the color Js not fast, trv to set It
before washing by soaking 'in half a
cup of vinegar to a gallon of cold
water firm trtlnK sample. Then
rinse before washing.
W'hUk Lux into a rich lather in very not
water two tablespoonf uls to the gallon.
Add cold water to make the suds luke
warm. Then , ut your sweater in, and
swish it about i the suds. Wash quickly,
pressing the suds through the sweater, but
;'.o not rub. Rinse three times in lukewarm
water, and disso.ve a little Lux in the last
rinsing water to eave your sweater toft
aui! woolly. Never wring sweaters. Just
squeeze the water out, and spread on a
towel to dry in the shade.
Us Lux mmytkiug Mat pmrt wattr
mltu uriii mtt tarn.
Won't Shrink Woolenx
wonderful suds.
Even in hard water, Lnx makes