TOE SUNDAY OltEGONIAN, PORTjLAND. JUNE 30, 1918.
Some of the Creatures of the Earth Used in National Dishes in Various Parts of the World and, as in the Case of the Whale, Now Entering the Bills of Fare on American Tables.
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Favorite Foods in All the Principal Kitchens of the Earth,
From Australia to Greenland and From Finland to Hawaii,
with a Few Hints as to How the Cooking Is Done.
To the Glory "of American Pie
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SOME FOODS YOU MAY NEVER
HAVE EATEN.
Elephants' feet, whale steak,
reindeer stew, sow thistles, bs.
nana leaves, swordflsh stew, os
trich eggs, alligator steak, kan
garoo tall soup, lizards, boa
constrictors.
BY JEANNETTE YOUNG NORTON.
AMONG other Interesting things
seen by the man in the moon is
what the world and his wife have
for dinner. No matter how well guarded
from inquisitive neighbors these details
may be camouflage Is as transparent to
him as a moonbeam. Our wheatless,
meatless food commotion has attracted
his eye and he opens it wide in. surprise
that we do not also use the one-dish
dinner. As a National dish he has seen
the one-dish dinner served dally In al
most every country.
The vital Importance of the food fac
tor in the world war has come home to
most of us, and, with the man in the
moon, we now see the one-dish dinner
as the best food economy. Let us
figuratively walk Into allied and other
world kitchens and see if any of the
national dishes are finer than our neg
lected ancestral Colonial potple. Many
of the dishes we will discover could be
borrowed and adopted by us, lending
substantial co-operation to the Food
Administration and first aid to our war
flattened pocketbooks.
Suppose we start on this pots and
pans Journey by peeping first into a
German kitchen and getting it over
with. A much-used dish is sauerbraten
(sour potroast made of bottom round of
beef, one of the cheaper cuts) cooked
with a rich vegetable flavored gravy,
seasoned with spices and vinegar and
' with plenty of raisins added. Potato
dumplings are added 20 minutes before
serving. The meat is dished with
dumplings around it and gravy over all,
while the mixed vegetables are served
separate. A full dinner in one pot.
In Serbia we find a famous dish called
"sarma." It takes a hours to prepare
this dish, for it has to cool and stand
several hours to flavor. Made of three
kinds of meat cut small and rolled
with sauerkraut in large cabbage
leaves, cooked with a spareritt. It is
flavored with red and green paprika
leaves. After standing It is heated
again and served with unleavened corn
bread, washed down with "kominiack."
A large quantity is made at a time and
It Is warmed up as needed.
A Glorified hot Peppery Stew.
Somewhere in Montenegro one is sure
to find an excellent as well as an eco
nomical dinner of smoked ham of mut
ton cooked with cabbage, accompanied
by boiled lima beans and split peas
a big feast for a email country.
Hungarian goulash has won a world
wide reputation. There are several ways
of making the dish, but each one leads
to a glorified, tf a bit peppery, veal and
noodle stew. The dish Is met in Hun
gary as frequently as their incompar
able apple etrudel. Noodles and dump
ings always do away with the use of
bread at the meal they are served.
Belgian cooks are good cooks. Stewed
Belgian hare cooked in red stock with
a little native wine, seasoning and po
tatoes added, is an economical and en
joyable dish. Flanked by a currant
soup and a slice of cramique. It is a
meal to remember with pleasure.
Danish cooks make a steamed stuffed
cabbage that is delicious. The meat Is
chopped and highly seasoned, the cab
bage is parboiled, stuffed, steamed and
then dished with a sour cream dressing
and fried noodles.
Bahmia is a popular Armenian stew
made of lamb and okra, well seasoned
and served with boiled rice. This is a
traditional and economical dish.
Roumanian kabet is a baked dish, a
concoction of meat, onions, seasoning
and sour cream, which proves, when
finished, an excellent combination.
The Hntapot of Holland.
The Bohemians have a novel dish
called krem fleish. It is composed, of
boned pig's head cooked in bouillon and
other good things. Just before serving
horseradish is added.
Polish krameskies are little strips of
bacon spread with a stuffing made of
finely minced meat, vegetable or fish
lett-overs wen seasoned. They are
dipped In a batter and friend.
The hutspot of Holland is stin made
after the manner of the one left by the
In All Lands Company Helps Make the
Meal.
In the Pineapple Country.
Spaniards, who cooked this dish over
their campfires the day in October long
ago when they were driven by the Hol
landers over the dykes and out of their
country. The stew resembles our
Mulligan" of the Northwest and the
pepperpot of the West Indies, only the
latter has crab meat and dumplings
added.
Swedish lutflsk is another famous and
economical dish. The dried fish is pre
pared by a peculiar process of soaking
to bring it back almost to the texture
of fresh fish. It is then cooked and
creamed in a most appetizing way. It
fs served with potatoes and other vege
tables.
Norwegian halibut pudding is a well-
seasoned fish mixture baked and served
with a typical drawn butter. It is
often followed by the marrow pudding,
which is sent to the table on fire.
The traveler who arrives In Iceland
during the annual whale drive in Au
gust is likely to have broiled whale
steeak served after their combination
fish stew. This unusual dish is often
followed by Jola grataur. the lucky rice
pudding. If a maiden gets the lucky
raisin in her portion an Iceland wed
ding may follow.
Reindeer stew and roast water fowl.
bear meat or a walrus stew are among
the dishes offered in Labrador, Green
land and Faroe Islands. In time a
taste may be acquired for those things
if one is frozen in long enough to be
of a grateful spirit. Coarse bread,
plenty of codfish, cranberry jam or a
blueberry (dried) cake may help mat
ters along.
In France the national pot-au-feu
holds first place.. It Is a soup, meat
and vegetable course all in one pot.
Spain boasts six national dishes
which are found in as many localities.
Olla pod r Ida. a stew made of chick peas
with native seasonings, 1 perhaps most
generally known.
Portuguese people serve a stew made
of vegetables cooked In chicken broth
with ripe plums added. This makes a
cheap and satisfactory dish. In the Fall
a piece of fresh pork Is cooked in the
stew.
The minestrone or bean pottage of
Italy is a national peasant dish which
has thick slices of bologna added as
the only meat. ,
Russian bortsch is a stock made of
beets which takes two weeks to pre
pare. The stock Is used to cook a meat
and vegetable stew which is highly
seasoned and very good.
The oushki of Siberia is a stew with
a bouillon foundation in which highly
seasoned pastry turnovers are poached
15 minutes before serving. It is said
that Mr. Romanoff is very fond of this
dish, though his wife prefers katofel
kloesse with her soup.
In Finland poerkall is the' stew
served. It is made of veal, pork, onions
and seasoning, with dumplings in the
gravy.
The haggis of Scotland, beef and kid
ney pudding of England, the stew of
Ireland and the brawn of Wales are
all well known as thrifty dishes.
Turkish pilaf is a national dish with
a foundation of boiled rice that is
flavored and has various ingredients
added to it for different occasions. No
matter how elaborate or simple the
meal may be it Is never omitted.
A well-known Japanese dish is
gyunabe. The dish is made with vege
tables stewed in shoyu sauce and mirin,
a cooking wine. Chicken or meat cut
most delectable dish in kangaroo tall
soup, which in many ways Is said to be
superior to oxtail soup. Bubble and
squeak and English beef stew are also
found here in perfection.
In Maori land hapuka is a stew of
fish and sow thistles, served with yams
baked in banana leaves. Delicious
Id vr
in small thin slices ia cooked on the
top of the stew.
Chinese chop suey served In China
has soy beans and pork in it that are
used in 'place of the more expensive
chicken and mushrooms that appear in
the American version.
Visitors in Ceylon soon learn to ap
preciate the dainty curries of cocoanut,
fruit, vegetables, fish and meats.
As the Cocoanut Grows.
Australia introduces the visitor to a
fruits and dark brown hospitality make
the tourist glad that he came.
We must go to Morocco and Algiers
to find the famous couscous, the well
seasoned stew of chicken and vege
tables, with the cake of Algerian meal
steaming on top and served as we serve
ric, covered with, rich gravy.
Punchero is the national stew of the
Argentine. The stew contains pork,
ham. chicken, vegetables, seasoning
and dried, soaked Spanish peas. This
is another one-dish dinner.
Brazilians use their favorite bean
stew (fejan) three times a day the year
around and never seem to tire of its
goodneas.
The Syrians of Mount Lebanon eat
their yakhnah In peaceful content un-
der the sacred cedars. The stew is
made of lamb and vegetables cooked in
aamln. It is eaten with khubz. the
Syrian flat bread.' and fresh olives.
A fonaant Cocktail.
The Samoans. since their world's
fair experiences, serve before their
swordfish stew a pol cocktail, American
style. The cocktail is composed of a
little prepared taro root, pol, sugar,
cracked ice and cocoanut milk.
New Zealanders are fond of pig and
pigeon stew, and also have a mokl
(fish) stew with tomatoes that is both
cheap and satisfying.
Fiji Islanders are past masters In
baking yams in banyan leaves In the
ashes. These arc served with a stew
of fresh turtle meat and eggs. The
present generation is getting into the
world's progressive procession and try
ing to forget their ancestors' predilec
tion for missionary a la barbecue.
Arabs and Bedouins depend chiefly
on camels' . milk, dates, figs, locusts,
honey and grains. They also serve an
excellent kid stew with boiled wheat
to the strangers within their tents.
Mexicans rejoice in a stew called ropa
vieja old clothes) made of meat cooked
and stripped to ribbons, vegetables,
peppers, onions and garlic, served with
plenty of tortillas (pancakes) and alli
gator pear butter.
Pescado coclde is an old Spanish stew
SUMMER ORCHESTRA CONCERTS
PLANNED BY ARNOLD VOLPE
Continued From First Pane.)
ductor, who is not actuated by the
present political conditions toward the
performance of American works, but
whose programmes of the past prove
that he was ever desirous of bringing
American compositions to the fore, is
making a definite aim to present all the
good orchestral works by American
composers that he can find, keeping up
his own ideals of good music, which is
eve the greatest thing that can be
done in behalf of a great National
propaganda.
Result Is Obtained.
Outside of every other considera
tion, Mr. Volpe Is accomplishing, with
in one Summer, the thing which has
been harped upon by every person who
has ever tried to further a general edu
cation and appreciation among either
classes or masses the making it pos
sible for students and young people to
hear music night after night, with no
serious strain upon their pocket-book.
Needless to emphasise that only
through familiarity with orchestral
works do people become able to hear
them with deeper consciousness than
Is possible through a surface hearing
and with this growth of understanding
comes In addition to a love, the real
need when music has the chance to
accomplish Its great mission in the
world not only for culture, but for
aotual physical benefit. There will be
much larger audiences next season for
all the orchestral concerts, for all con
certs, indeed, and for this, thanks to
Mr. Volpe and his admirably-wrought-out
scheme.
. Band Coaeerta Planned.
Another series of "nightly concerts"
which marks an important moment in
the musical life of this country is the
season of band concerts to be given at
Columbia University this Summer by
the New York Military Band under Ed
win FrankO Goldman., who has enter
tained thousands with his open-air
band concerts during the past few sea
sons. Mr. Goldman is of the well-
known New Orleans Franko family, of
which Nahan is now giving a series
at Willow Grove, and Sam Franko is
organizing an orchestra for concerts
next season. These concerts opened
Monday night, to be given Monday,
Wednesday and Friday evenings for 10
weeks, with special programmes for
each night, as, for Instance, Wednes
day evenings will Include community
singing and Fridays will bring forward
special composers and guest conductors.
There will be none more famous than
the guest of Friday evening, when
Percy Grainger made his official debut
as band conductor and composer. There
has been no greater artist enlisted In
military service than this noted pianist,
who became a veritable Idol within two
seasons before the American public
His story Is too well known to require
the re-telling from the day of his en
listment as private and his entry Into
the Fifth Regiment C. A. C. Band to his
present position of assistant Instructor
at Governor's Island. That Percy
Grainger should take his position as
bandmaster will not surprise anyone:
the strange part of it was that he did
not do so directly upon his entry into
the service.
Offer First Refused.
The fact is that he was offered the
opportunity to do so, but preferred to
become a member of the band in order
to study first hand all the possibilities
of the brasses and woods with which
he was less familiar than he was with
the orchestra. It was a great and
thrilling moment when the sunny
haired artist took his position at the
head of this fine large organization
which Mr. Goldman has well selected
and trained and It was more than cur
sorily significant because it foretold
wkat Grainger will eventually do in
the music which has gained the sym
pathy and Interest of every person able
to understand what military music
means to the Army, Navy and public at
this time.
Henry Hadley is announced for one
of the early concerts when the re
nowned American conductor and com
poser will direct half the programme
to be devoted to his compositions ar
ranged for band and throughout Mr.
Goldman has undertaken to demon
strate what can be accomplished by
band orchestrations of the finest type
to be performed by men from the Met
ropolitan, New York and Philharmonic
orchestras. There will be soloists
throughout the season and from time to
time Mr. Goldman himself will contrib
ute cornet numbers, he being a cornet
soloist of note. At this time it may
be added that Edwin Franko Goldman
was born in Louisville, Ky, in 1S7S. of
American parents.
Smile, Smile, Smile."
Do yon give as good as yon get?
Does your soldier boy fill his letters
with accounts of the disagreeable
things he ls meeting, or does he cheer
fully ignore'them and try to make you
believe that he Is hsving the best time
ever? He knows that you can do noth
ing to change conditions as he finds
them, so. In his fine philosophy, why
pass the worrying on to you? Turn
the picture around and look at the boy's
side of it. You will never know the
half of the things ha endures; ha won't
tell you now, and when he comes back
he will wave them aside as of no Im
portance. As you can't help him, he
can't help you. A grumbling letter, or
one full of discouragement, will only
make a soldier a little less efficient in
his job; you will still have the home
problems to tackle. The need is not so
much for more letters, but for more
cheerful letters, is the word that comes
from the camps. 'The mud-soaked 01d
Bills' of the trenches, cheerfully Ignor
ing vermin, rain and shell-firs, con
tinue to wind up their epistles with,
'Hoping this finds you In the pink,
as it leaves me at present.' " says Lieu
tenant Dawson. They are always in
the pink for epistolary purposes, what
ever the strafing or the weather." We
at home should be "in the pink." We
should do more than "keep the home
fires burning"; we should let them
Shine on and In the letters that we send
to camp. William Frederick Bigelow
In Good Housekeeping.
Toasted Coffee.
Coffee Is much better if the grains
are placed in a hot oven for two or
three minutes before making.
American Girl Escape Cossacks.
An American girl traveling alone re
cently through Siberia was awakened
at C o'clock one morning, when the
porter ushered an all-ltusslan Cossack
Into her stateroom. The girl was Miss
Madeleine Doty, who was on her way
around the world for Good Housekeep
ing. She tells about this experience In
the current issue as follows:
"It was C A. M. when I awoke with
a start. My stateroom door had been
flung open. The Russian porter was
showing a Cossack soldier into my
compartment. I Sat up in my berth and
let forth a flood of English: I gesticu
lated wiMly, but the Russians only
shook their heads. Then the Cossack
dismissed the porter, closed the door,
and locked It. Tales of Cossack bru
tality surged through my mind. I felt
for my money under my pillow. My
heart beat violently. The soldier was
distinctly disagreeable. He saw my
discomfiture and enjoyed It. He gath
ered up my scattered garments and
flung them into my berth. Then he
slowly took off his coat and shoes
and climbed Into the upper berth. I
heard htm making his preparations for
sleep. I listened breathlessly till all
was stllL Then I stealthily began to
put on my clothes. When dressed In
my coat and skirt I crawled out of the
lower berth and stood up. The soldier
was lying above me with eyes wide
open. He had a cigarette between his
Hps, He puffed at It leisurely and
grinned at me amusedly. A wave of
resentment seised me, but I picked up
my comb and brush and began quickly
to do up my hair. My hand trembled.
I gathered np my possessions, unbolted
the door, flung it open, and in a mo
ment was out in the corridor. But it
was as dark as night outside. Not un
til t A. M. would light appear on the
horizon. Every compartment door was
closed and locked. At the end of the
car the porter snored peacefully in his
bunk. I stood In the swaying train
corridor and waited for the dawn.
"I found out later that to the Rus
sians on the train I seemed finicky.
The Russian revolution was raging.
Life had gotten down to the elemental.
There was no room for conventions."
always to be found on Cuban menua
Broiled Amberjack with chocolate
sauce Is also a Cuban favorite.
In Hawaii, land of the ukulele, no
luau Is complete without fish steamed
in leaves, whoie pig roasted in an
underground oven, pink poi and green
cocoanut eaten from their shells.
Kingston. Jamaica, is well supplied
with markets and tropical fish are very
abundant. Fresh beef, killed daily, is
not only sold by the butchers, but they
spice, roll and prepare It for roasting
In an absolutely original way.
The Kafir may have his corn, the
Boer his eternal coffee, the man of
Zanzibar his roast nairobi cooked in
sugar syrup, but the Hottentot de
mands a square meal. He begins with
tortoise soup, then wild peacock roast
ed, baked elephant foot, frirassee of
porcupine, epareribs of young hippo
potamus, ragout of earth-hog's leg and
an omelette of ostrich eggs, all washed
down with brandy and followed by
native fruit. Still the historians tell
us the Hottentots are a decaying race.
In a land where Christmas comes in
the mid-Summer of December, what can
one expect? Kven then we have not
accounted for the rhinoceros, the lizard
and the boa, all eaten in different parts
of the world. No wonder the man In
the moon has ceased to be surprised at
what is eaten by the world and his wife
and with their limited vii-ton call aooW.
Lemon Juice:
. ForYrecklesi
-'larvMak beauty" lottonfat
home for few cent. Try. It K
Squeeze the Juice of two lemons Into
a bottls containing three ounces oC
orchard white, shake well, and you
have a quarter pint of the best freckle
and tan lotion and complexion beautl
fler at a very, very small cost.
Your grocer has the lemons and any
drug store or toilet counter will supply
three ounces of orchard white for a few
cents. Massage this sweetly fragrant
lotion Into the face, neck, arms and
hands each day and see how freckles
and blemishes disappear and bow clear,
soft and white the skin becomes. Yesl
It is harmless Adv.
HOW TO JUDGE A
WOMAN BY HER HAIR
There Is real common sense In Just
noticing whether the hair is well kept
to judge of a woman's neatness, or
good taste. If you are one of the few
who try to make the most of your hair,
remember that It is not advisable to
wash the hair with any cleanser made
for all purposes, but always use some
good shampoo. You can enjoy the very
best by getting some Canthrox from
your druggist, dissolve a teaspoonful in
a cup of hot water. This makes a full
cup of shampoo liquid, enough so It Is
easy to apply it to all the hair Instead
of Just the top of the head. Dandruff,
excess oil and dirt are dissolved and en
tirely disappear. Your hair will be so
fluffy that it will look much heavier
than It ia Its luster and softness will
also delight you, while the stimulated
scalp gains the health which Insures
hair growth. Adv.