TIIE SUNDAY OREGOXIAN, PORTLAND. JUNE 9, 1918.
18 fot honors, 100 for making good.
400 for extra tricks and 60 for little
slam.
Partner Falls to Understand.
One more example one which shows
a good double which, however, was
not allowed to stand because tJie part
ner of the player making it failed to
grasp its full import and went back
to his own suit, thinking it insured a
better, score:
5
10 S
10 8 7 a
K J 9 8 7 S
LATEST BLOOMER COMBINATION ESPECIALLY
ATTRACTIVE TO WOMEN IN WAR INDUSTRIES
Girl Farmers Throughout the Country Are Finding Sensible Costume Exactly the Thing for Work in the Open.
W hite Shirtwaist Adds Color to Wardrobe of Home or City War Gardener.
SELF-MADE SCHEMES OF COUNTRY FOLK GAIN
ATTENTION FROM LEADING CITY DECORATORS
Many of Best Architects No- Are Devoting Themselves to the Study of Farm Cottages and Buildings Days of
Splendor Give Way to More Sane Ideas of Construction.
I
742
ICQ J
A
A Q 10 5 4 3
G
Y
A B 9 8754 2
Z t K 9 6 5 4 3
C ffom& -- f
tV &ne f"f
V- V L' . X VV - , ,7 -X ' j'l ' ,
'.Vi'f V ! --Vv-;' I Hi
h Alr k . I
situn Adopted
OVER the neat waist and bloomer
combination shown in another
picture, may be slipped this sep
arate skirt which is heM up by but
toned straps or suspenders, as the
farmer-maid likes to call them. Skirt
and suspenders may be discarded when
field labor begins and donned again
for the walk back home; for many of
the war gardens are situated on the
outskirts of suburban communities.
This young farmerette wears with her
practical khaki costume ribbed woolen
stockings and rubber-soled Oxfords of
eupple tan leather Ideal shoes for gar
den work.
Girl farmers throughout the country
are finding this sensible costume exact
ly the thing for work out in the open.
The khaki smock, with its belt and deep
pockets, has the smartness of a mili
tary coat over well - fitting breeches
that are strapped under khaki puttees,
the puttees coming over the tops of
specially made laced shoes, very pliable
and soft on the foot and possessed of
tout yet supple rubber soles. and low
broad heels that support the wearer's
weight comfortably without sinking
Into soft soil. The khaki hat may be
dragged down or turned up to suit the
weather.
Raising lettuce and beans In the
home garden is not so strenuous as
actual war gardening, and the home
gardener dons over her cool white shirt
waist and ordinary petticoat and
underwear, one of these practical gar
dening skirts of khaki with buttoned
eu-spenders. Such a skirt looks trim
and smart, yet does not show soil traces
easily, and, when the need arrives. It
may be laundered as easily as an ordi
nary kirt of duck or linen.
The girl farmer need not make a
fright of herself for her labor in the
fields. This attractive costume has
been especially designed for her use
and has its picturesque as well as Its
practical features. The long, slim lines
of the pleated bloomer are most becom
ing to a slender, girlish figure and the
waist is excellently cut, wi. well-arranged
fullness and sleeves that may
be rolled back on the arm. Hat and
costume are of khaki; waist and
IN looking over a number of hands
from actual play, which I have kept
for the purpose of illustration, I
find many more examples of unsound
than sound doubling. This but serves
to emphasize what I have so often as
serted that the double calls at all
times for the greatest judgment, and
where there is any special doubt con
cerning it it is better to give the ben
efit of the doubt to its negative side
and refrain from making it. This is
one of the hands:
A Q 4 2
AJ 10 9768
5 2
743
K J 10 9 8 7 5
Q
S(
K6
63
5
AKJ10 97 6 3
VAQJ 10 9852
. . . .
K 9 8 4
Q
Z started with a heart. A passed,
nd Y, with no hearts, though with
seveh diamonds to three honors, called
"two diamonds." B said "two spades."
Z. disregarding his partner's warning,
went back to hearts and called "three."
The bidding went on between B and Z
until Z had called "five hearts," which
B doubled in all respects a most un
wise double. In the first place, he sits
on the wrong side of the declarer, and
It is more than likely his singly
guarded king of hearts will be led
through and fail to make. It is by
no means certain either that his spade
will go two rounds or even one. Hjs
partner has not bid and has apparently
a weak hand. Lastly, the double gives
the declarer a chance to redouble, and,
if successful, to pull off a score greatly
In excess of what he ordinarily would
have made. This iri reality is what
happened; Z redoubled and made a
illl Mini
Jlllll h lifflMwilffl
Y
A B
Z
U' A-hi
IL- !-i iy
I . - f - 11
; I l
bloomer are attached by buttons and a
etronr belt.
total score of 756 192 for tricks, 64
for honors, 100 ' for keeping contract
at a redouble, 100 for extra trick, 60
fon little slam, and. It being the rub
ber game, 250 for rubber. As a mat
ter of fact, the extra trick, which
particular trick gave him values to the
sum of 182 points 32 for the trick
itself. 100 for the extra trick and 50
for little slam was a present to him
pure and simple from A because of a
mistaken opening lead.
Lead Hard to Explain.
The wrong lead consisted In the
lead of his own suit, clubs, rather
than his partner's suit, spades. Why
he so led it is difficult -to explain.
Had his suit been established, it would
have been a different matter, but, as
it was, it was a" play without any dos-
sible justification. On this lead Z was
enabled to discard his lone queen, of
spades (at the same time that he won
the trick in the dummy hand) and
thus put himself in position to trump
spades rrom the start. .
Here is another illustration of a poor
double and, penbaps, an even worse
redouble:
854
7 6 3 2
9 7 5
7 4
A Q 10
J 10 9
A Q J 4
AKJ
Z, the dealer, bid-"no trumps." A
passed, and Y, with no help for a no-
trumper, tnougn with five clubs to an
honor, overcalled, correctly, with "two
clubs. B passed. It was the rubber
game, and Z,- reasoning that with
eight or more clubs in t.e two bands
including-at. least -three. honora, auid
K62 Y "JSTS
AK51 A B 8
63 Z K 10 8
Q 10 6 3 o 9 8 5 2
his othen suits unusually ' well pro
tected, he could undoubtedly make his
contract, and possibly go game, at "no
trumps" (though not at clubs), went to
"two no trumps." This A doubled. He
did so with the sole object of fright
ening T back to diamonds, he appar
ently losing sight of the fact that auc
tion, unlike poker, is a game of calcu
lation and not of bluff. Y, however,
did not fall into the trap and passed.
Z, though, committed the grievous er
ror of redoubling. As has been ex
plained, he was practically sure of
making his contract. This at the dou
bled values made possible by. the
mistaken course of his adversary
would have given him game, the rub
ber game.
"Vagaries Occasionally Indulged.
When, then, he should redouble and
thus pave the way for further bidding
is another of those vagaries in which
players - occasionally indulge, which
even to themselves they would find
it difficult intelligently to explain.
However, be redoubled, and A, who
fully realized by this time the difficul
ties whch his rash double had brought
upon him, as the one and only chance
of saving the rubber, mado the des
perate bid of "two spades." Z also
by this time realized his mistake, but
the only thing now left him was to
double the adverse declaration. The
result was that A-B went down two
tricks and Z-Y scored 200 plus honors,
or 218. This score, however, was in
the honor score, and considerably less
than the rubber would have brought
them. And at -one time rubber was
in sight!
Had A In the first place not made
his rash and wholly unwarrantable
double Z, in all likelihood, would have
made two tricks only, thus falling
short of game. This would have given
him a score of 50 20 for tricks and
30 for honors. Z would have been
confronted by the difficulty of not
being able to get the lead in dummy's
hand, and so of being comoelled con
stantly to lead from his own hand,
made up chiefly of tenace suits. A
doubtless would have led his fourth
best club, which Z would have taken
in his own hand. Should he have put
up dummy's queen on the happy-go-lucky
chance that both ace and king
were with the leader (which in
reality was the case), he could have
led the diamond from the dummy
hand and taken the finesse which
would have given him game, but such
play would have been wholly unwar
rantable and contrary to all rules and
principles of the game.
Poor Double Illustrated.
Still another example of a. poor
double: .
KQJ9
6
AKQJ4
7 6 3 .
10 2
KQJ9762
10 8 7 6
A7 6 6
10 8
4 3 2
A 10 5 4 2
....
8 4 3
A 4 3
4 9 6
KQJ98
Z called "a spade"; A "two clubs." Y.
with three cards of his partner s suit,
spades and an established side suit,
should have said "two spades." In
stead . he said "two diamonds." B
passed. Z-Y had been playing in very
poor luck. It was the rubber game,
with,' the adversaries 27 to their noth
ing. Realizing, therefore, the impor
tance of making game on the hand,
Z went back to spades, calling "two
spades." B, who was greatly pleased
with the spade bid in the first place,
doubled. For every reason he should
not have done so. In the first place
he is on the wrong side of the de
clarer. Secondly, the double of a low
contract should not be ventured unless
the player making It may double any
thing to which the adversaries may
shift. B lacks this ability. One of the
adversaries had already shown dia
monds and there was no assurance the
double would not cause him to go back
to the suit. Lastly, the double places
game within range of possibility for
the adversaries. "Two spades" dou
bled,' if they keep their contract, will
mean game. "Two spades" undou
bted would not.
Z. after giving the situation a mo
ment's consideration, redoubled. Unden
many conditions this would have been
unwise, but he was practically sure
of making good and feared otherwise
his partner might go back to dia
monds. To be sure the redouble might
frighten A into "three clubs," but this
chance he ventured. A In reality
should have called "three clubs." but
he did not, and the hand was played
at "two spades." redoubled. ind Z-Y
oaado, a scone of 784 216 for trick.
Y
A B
Z
AKQJ 10 863
A 6
QJ
2
Z bid "a heart." A "a spade," Y and
B passed, Z said "two hearts." A "two
spades," and thus it went on until
A had called 'four spades." Y, who
had been simply biding her time, until
the contract should be big enough, now
doubled, as she saw the prospect of a
much bigger score at the double than
at her partner's heart. She trusted,
of course, that her partner would un
derstand her policy and not Interfere
with the double, but not so. Carried
away with his glittering array of
trumps and apparently obsessed with
the belief that they could take tricks
far in excess of their ability to do,
he went to "five hearts." This closed
the bidding, A being only too glad
to escape the dangerous spade double.
The moment the dummy hand came
down Z realized his error, but It was
then too late to rectify it and all he
could do was to make the oest of a
bad situation. His partner was unable
to take a single tricky and as he had
four losing tricks in his own hand,
two diamond tricks, one spade trick
and one club trick (a fact which up
to this time had apparently escaped
him), he made simply his eight trumps
and the ace of clubs, in curing a pen
alty of 100. Had he allowed his part
nens double to stand, the adversaries
would have gone down six tricks and
Z-Y would have scored 600.
Making: Your Car Work.
A writer in the June Woman's Home
Companion eaye:
"We are urged to can all we can,
but what is a poor housewife like me
to do when the big canneries persist
in buying up all the fruit in the regu
lar fruit belts, making it difficult for
the commission merchant to purchase
much, and then charging Impossible
prices for the little they are able to
get? That is the situation here, at any
rate.
"Now I have visited in villages and
out-of-the-way places long enough to
know that much choice fruit goes to
waste because of no convenient mar
ket. Why, one year, when plums were
selling in our city markets for $3.75
per bushel, I went to a tiny town 30
miles away and bought a far better
grade for 50 cents. And they were
glad to get that much. I know a
farmer who would Joyfully have sold
his apples last year for 25 cents a bu
shel if anyone would come after them.
And last Christmas, when I paid 60
cents for fresh eggs, I stumbled across
a backwoodsman who thought he was
doing exceptionally well to get 25 cents.
The reason in most cases was that
shipping facilities were inadequate;
but I also discovered that many farm
ers, or farmers' wives, were poor busi
ness managers, and lacked initiative
or energy enough to establish commu
nication between customers and them
selves. "My neighbors are delighted to take
any extra supplies I bring home, pay
ing me a few cents more than I paid,
which helps to buy gasoline for more
scouting expeditions."
WOMEN WHO RELEASE MEN FOR FIGHTING
ADOPT SENSIBLE GARB FOR THEIR LABORS
Latest Costume Is Made of Good Quality Khaki and Includes Neat Shirtwaist, WelKFitting Bloomers, Skirt
Fastened to Suspender Straps, and Hat With Flexible, Adjustable Brim.
A
LL over this broad land hundreds
of flne-Bpirited American girls
are turning to with a will this
Summer to do the work of men. and
their labors are releasing hundreds of
men to take up arms for America. It
may not be as romantic to wield rake
and hoe in the hot sun as to hand out
coffee and doughnuts to the soldier
boys in the canteen service or to play
the ministering angel in picturesque
Red Cross robes of shining white, but
these valiant girls are Just as truly
doing their bit and their bit la not
without hardships, either.
Yet the busy farmerettes get a good
deal of enjoyment out of their strenu
ous labor in the fields and they are
going to lay up a splendid store of
health and vitality, too, by their exer
cise In the open air, their early-to-bed
habit and the simple, nourishing food
that forms their diet.
Farmer Costumes Picturesque.
And the workaday togs for field
labor appeal to feminine fancy also
which is always a help. Working from
dawn to dusk In shabby old clothes
would not be half as satisfying as
working in smart, picturesque and be
coming togs that give one a pleasant
sense of being dressed for the picture.
There is an immense satisfaction In
being garbed for the part, and this the
schools and colleges that have organ
ized agricultural classes have well ap
preciated. The farmer girl's costume,
besides being altogether practical for
Its uses, is agreeably satisfying to the
eye and is most fetching on the busy,
happy young women who wear it.
The costume is made of good quality
khaki and includes a neat,vComfortable
shirtwaist, well-fitting bloomers, skirt
fastened to suspender straps, and hat
with flexible, adjustable brim.
The bloomers have none of the puffy,
baggy look that these garments used
to possess. The material, abundant
enough to give the bloomer the silhou
ette of a smartly-cut skirt, is pleated
into a belt and the pleats are stitched
all the way down to the edge, where
the bloomer is gathered below the
knee well below the knee, at a point
midway between knee and ankle. The
pleats meet at back and front and there
Is a flat box pleat on the outer side of
each leg; and the whole garment has
the look of a slim, graceful skirt.
Gathered into a separate belt, so that
the bloomer can 'button to it, is the
shirtwaist, made with roomy armholes
and sufficient gathers across the front.
The sleeves have buttoned cuffs and
may be rolled back on the arm; the
turndown collar leaves the neck cool
and unconfined.
Neat Skirt for Oceoslonal Wear.
The farmer maid wears her waist and
bloomers when working in the fields
or when "doing her bit" about the
farmhouse. For more public appear
ances she has a conventional skirt,
also of khaki, which may be slipped
over the waist-and-bloomer combina
tion and which Is held firmly and
trlely In position bv natty susDenders
in other words, broad straps that
-TfcaniiitafTll
INCE the days of splendor have
passed, or at least have been sus-
pended, many of our best Interior
decorators are drawing for Inspiration
on the self-made schemes of. country
folk. Their practicability is unmis
takable and they often need but the
slightest touch of artistry to make
them really charming. Farm houses
are becoming every year more delight
ful, due in a large measure to modern
facilities that have brought city and
country into close touch.
Many of our best architects are de
voting themselves to the study of farm
cottages and buildings in groups and
this course naturally carries with It
interest In the Interior furnishing and
finishing. The chief aim is to have all
in keeping and so to preserve the char
acter of buildings and groups in the
choice of accessories. Architects are
sure to be trained In conscientious
study and we may well learn from
them the lesson they preach that fitness
should be the dictator in all schemes
from palace to dairy.
Among the things fit for farm use
are the good home-woven rugs, tufted,
crocheted, braided, hooked, etc; cot
tage furniture, often hand carved and
hanad painted, gaily colored wash fab
rics for draperies, flowering plants and
simple paints and papers.
On entering through a side door of
one of a group of cottages lately com
pleted my first impresssion was that
I was in the kitchen, but such was not
the case, as immediately became ap
parent by the sight of the generous
cooking range frankly in view. The
kitchen, however, had the same drapery
fabric, furniture, rugs and woodwork
that were used in the dining-room and
later It was seen that these details of
decoration were repeated in the living
hall as well. The unison afforded was
highly satisfying.
The kitchen had the self-respecting
air of a place wherein an intelligent
woman ministered. There was no clut-
cross the shoulders and have at the
ends two tabs that button to the skirt
belt. This skirt has a pleated panel
down the front with a deep pockets at
either side of the panel, and it falls
just over the edge of the bloomer, mid
way between knee and ankle. The
girl who gardens at home and potters
about In lettuce and tomato beds finds
this farmer-skirt very useful also. She
does not need the khaki waist and
blodmer for her sort of light gardening,
but dons the skirt over an ordinary
white shirtwaist or petticoat, or over a
light Summer frock if she has to run
out and gather a panful of string
beans for the next meal.
Breeches and Puttees Popular.
There Is a still more picturesque
farmerette costume which many of the
agricultural organizations have adopt
ed for modern woman, working for
the war, does seem to have a strong
hankering for bona fide breeches and
puttees which give such a trig, uniform-like
suggestion! This natty' cos
tume does away with the shirtwaist
and bloomer idea and substitutes a
dashing tunic, belted at the waist and
flaring almost to the knee over nicely
fitted breeches which disappear Just
below the knee under smoolhly-straped
puttees. Very trim and swagger is the
belted tunic, which looks vastly like a
uniform coat with its straight coat
sleeves, its single-breasted, buttoned
front and its big pockets at the hip.
It is. withal, a comfortable garment to
work in and its wearers contend that
it is much more comfortable than the
waist and bloomer combination, since
the straight tunic, loosely belted or
worn without the belt if one pleases,
leaves the arms perfectly free as a
middy blouse does.
Footwear for the Farmer Maid.
The foot that treads all day over
furrows and stubble must be clad in
something besides thin kid or canvas;
and the less heel the farmer maid's
shoe has the more easily she will walk
on soft soil or rutted roads. The best
shoe for outdoor gardening is a laced
one of soft, supple leather with welted
sole that lifts the foot well above damp
ground, and a very broad. low heel.
Such shoes are more comfortable for
the average woman than stout calfskin
boots such as are used for tramping,
and leave one less tired at night.
Woolen stockings, a fresh pair each
day, or twice a day if one can manage
it. will give greater comfort and keep
the feet in better condition than thin
lisle or silk hose.
The Camp Fire Girls and the Girl
Scouts who are doing their share of war
service have uniforms too familiar to
need description. A delightful outfit
of the Camp Fire girl is the middy
and bloomer combination reserved- for
playtime In the woods. The middy Is
of white cotton duck, made to cling
trimly at the lp by a close band of
the material, and the full bloomer Is
smoothly pleated to give the slim sil
houette now favored. Very different
this silhouette from the old-fashioned
one given by., a. blouse belted at the
L ii ii 1 nri-ni r. i
. ter of pots and pans, but a pretty Welch
I dresser, with long shallow shelves, held
the utensils that were sightly, whi
the more cumbersome pieces were hid
den away in a. prety painted chest that
extended below two windows at one
end of the room and served, too, as a
window seat. This was painted old
Ivory, and the owner, who had no
"knack" for painting orrmments. had
adorned It effectively with well-selected
transfer pictures, merely a garland
of flowers at the center of the front
and the center of the lid.
All of the floors were stained with
a walnut stain and finished with flat
unglazed . varnish and the rugs were
woven rag rugs in tan and blue and
black. The woodwork was old ivory.
In the dining-room and kitchen - the
window sills were widened by means
of a shelf and a pot of geraniums was
placed at both corners of each win
dow. Next to the glass throughout
were upper and lower sash curtains of
white linens. The over draperies on
all of the windows were made of blue,
tan, black and white plaid linen. They
were purely ornamental, made up in
pairs of short side curtains with a
shallow flounce of the same material
separating them, and hung on the same
rod. with a French heading. Roller
shades of old ivory linen were used.
The plaid linen was repeated prettily
throughout the scheme. The kitchen
tablecloth, for example, was made of It.
Two deep-seated, low-backed. over
stuffed chairs, in the living hall, had
slip covers of It and the blue velveteen
upholstered day bed had two round
plaid pillows with a white filet over
rose rajah pillow at either end.
Betwen the two windows in the liv
ing hall was a little walnut gate leg
table with a parchment lamp on It and
on the wall above the table was one
of those attractively framed mirrors,
having candle holders made right to
the painted frame, the flat wood being
ornamented with transfer floral motifs.
The kitchen wall was sand-colored
waistline and gathered bloomer puff
ing out at the hips. All the busy girls
this Summer have knitted slipons.
purled at the waist and hip to give the
clinging line; and the favored color is
khaki brown.
The fashionable new gray is a misty
shade.
A charming bathing suit is of silver
gray.
Sure of Her Personal Daintiness
Therefore Sure of Herself
NO woman, no matter how beautiful, can retain her
cJiarm so long1 as her presence does not exhale
sweetness. Her greatest enemy is Excessive Armpit
Perspiration. It destroys her poise; ruins her most ex
pensive gowns and subjects her constantly to humiliation.
CXlt A tiptio Litruui)
Ends Excessive Perspiration
Under the Arms and Destroys All Odor
No more dress shields! No more embarrassment at
dances or other social gatherings! The old, original NONSPI.
the tried, the proven, the fruaranteed remedy, insures your per
sonal daintiness your greatest charm.
NONSPI is an Antiseptic Liquid unseented and free from
Artificial Coloring Matter. Dealers everywhere sell it millions of
women use it leading physicians and chemists endorse it. About
two applications a week will free vou from perspiration worry
and daily baths do not lessen the effect.
C0e (several months aopply of toilet and drag dealers or by mail
dirsct. Or. send 4e for tenting sstsnplc and what madical author
ties say about thm harmfnln of axceanive armpit parapirmtioo.
THE NONSPI COMPANY, 2S15 Walnut Street, Kansas Cry, Ma.
plaster and the dining-room and llv
ing hall were papered in striped paper,
alternating equal narrow strips of sand
and old Ivory.
The dining-room was nice. The oval
table was painted old Ivory with trans
fer flowers arranged in an oval wreath
near the edge," and the rush-bottom
chairs, with ivory painted wooden
frames, had floral transfers Impressed
on the horizontal splits. Three of
these chairs were used in the kitchen,
four in the dining-room, and a couple
more found their place In the living
hall.
A little corner cupboard graced one
corner of the dining-room and in an
other corner was a small kidney table
of walnut, with a black oval tray
decked with a bunch of flowers. The
tray stood upright and at either end
of the table, flanking the tray, was a
white china candlestick holding a coral
colored candle. Several painted wood
en sconces on the wall had real candles
in them, though an electric light clus
ter with three alabaster shades de
pended from the ceiling center.
In the kitchen the rugs were small,
but in the dining-room and living-room
they were large. Book ends holding
a few favorite books and smoking
things added their quota of pleasure.
There were but few other accessories.
A great wall clock In the kitchen, a
little mirror with painted frame in the
dining-room and several simply framed
mezzotints on the walls of the living
hall formed the full extent of extras.
The whole place had a satisfying air
of completion. It had that indefinable
quality that always accompanies beau
ty, that is shall we say "effortless" or
"artless"? the sort of quality that is
so admired in some voices and in facts
that are too young to know how love
ly they are.
Old-fashioned transfer pictures are
having a wide vogue at present. An
old chair that has been rejuvenated by
means of this easy expedient is shown
in the sketch. The motif of wheat,
daisies and poppies is copied in crewel
work on the novel cushion that- lies
like a padded scarf across the chair
seat. The cushion Is of oyster green
linen, weighted down at the corners
with cherry-colored worsted tassels,
and the chair, which Is painted oyster
green, has old blue "trimmings at the
turnings.
The walls in this room are oyster
green and the draperies are of ecru
colored chintz, with a splashy design
of turquoise paniers, filled with pop
pies and cornflowers and daisies, gayly
red, white and blue in their assortment.
This fabric is used for the table cover,
bordered with plain ecru linen, and for
the chimney valance. Several cushions
are in red and ecru striped linen and
one of plain ecru has an applique cue
from the drapery chintz stitched to it.
The room is inexpensively furnished,
yet it has a homelike response to the
touch of fingers that have left their
imprint of affectionate Interest.
a