TIIE SUNDAY OREGOXIAN, PORTLAND. JUNE 9, 1918. 18 fot honors, 100 for making good. 400 for extra tricks and 60 for little slam. Partner Falls to Understand. One more example one which shows a good double which, however, was not allowed to stand because tJie part ner of the player making it failed to grasp its full import and went back to his own suit, thinking it insured a better, score: 5 10 S 10 8 7 a K J 9 8 7 S LATEST BLOOMER COMBINATION ESPECIALLY ATTRACTIVE TO WOMEN IN WAR INDUSTRIES Girl Farmers Throughout the Country Are Finding Sensible Costume Exactly the Thing for Work in the Open. W hite Shirtwaist Adds Color to Wardrobe of Home or City War Gardener. SELF-MADE SCHEMES OF COUNTRY FOLK GAIN ATTENTION FROM LEADING CITY DECORATORS Many of Best Architects No- Are Devoting Themselves to the Study of Farm Cottages and Buildings Days of Splendor Give Way to More Sane Ideas of Construction. I 742 ICQ J A A Q 10 5 4 3 G Y A B 9 8754 2 Z t K 9 6 5 4 3 C ffom& -- f tV &ne f"f V- V L' . X VV - , ,7 -X ' j'l ' , '.Vi'f V ! --Vv-;' I Hi h Alr k . I situn Adopted OVER the neat waist and bloomer combination shown in another picture, may be slipped this sep arate skirt which is heM up by but toned straps or suspenders, as the farmer-maid likes to call them. Skirt and suspenders may be discarded when field labor begins and donned again for the walk back home; for many of the war gardens are situated on the outskirts of suburban communities. This young farmerette wears with her practical khaki costume ribbed woolen stockings and rubber-soled Oxfords of eupple tan leather Ideal shoes for gar den work. Girl farmers throughout the country are finding this sensible costume exact ly the thing for work out in the open. The khaki smock, with its belt and deep pockets, has the smartness of a mili tary coat over well - fitting breeches that are strapped under khaki puttees, the puttees coming over the tops of specially made laced shoes, very pliable and soft on the foot and possessed of tout yet supple rubber soles. and low broad heels that support the wearer's weight comfortably without sinking Into soft soil. The khaki hat may be dragged down or turned up to suit the weather. Raising lettuce and beans In the home garden is not so strenuous as actual war gardening, and the home gardener dons over her cool white shirt waist and ordinary petticoat and underwear, one of these practical gar dening skirts of khaki with buttoned eu-spenders. Such a skirt looks trim and smart, yet does not show soil traces easily, and, when the need arrives. It may be laundered as easily as an ordi nary kirt of duck or linen. The girl farmer need not make a fright of herself for her labor in the fields. This attractive costume has been especially designed for her use and has its picturesque as well as Its practical features. The long, slim lines of the pleated bloomer are most becom ing to a slender, girlish figure and the waist is excellently cut, wi. well-arranged fullness and sleeves that may be rolled back on the arm. Hat and costume are of khaki; waist and IN looking over a number of hands from actual play, which I have kept for the purpose of illustration, I find many more examples of unsound than sound doubling. This but serves to emphasize what I have so often as serted that the double calls at all times for the greatest judgment, and where there is any special doubt con cerning it it is better to give the ben efit of the doubt to its negative side and refrain from making it. This is one of the hands: A Q 4 2 AJ 10 9768 5 2 743 K J 10 9 8 7 5 Q S( K6 63 5 AKJ10 97 6 3 VAQJ 10 9852 . . . . K 9 8 4 Q Z started with a heart. A passed, nd Y, with no hearts, though with seveh diamonds to three honors, called "two diamonds." B said "two spades." Z. disregarding his partner's warning, went back to hearts and called "three." The bidding went on between B and Z until Z had called "five hearts," which B doubled in all respects a most un wise double. In the first place, he sits on the wrong side of the declarer, and It is more than likely his singly guarded king of hearts will be led through and fail to make. It is by no means certain either that his spade will go two rounds or even one. Hjs partner has not bid and has apparently a weak hand. Lastly, the double gives the declarer a chance to redouble, and, if successful, to pull off a score greatly In excess of what he ordinarily would have made. This iri reality is what happened; Z redoubled and made a illl Mini Jlllll h lifflMwilffl Y A B Z U' A-hi IL- !-i iy I . - f - 11 ; I l bloomer are attached by buttons and a etronr belt. total score of 756 192 for tricks, 64 for honors, 100 ' for keeping contract at a redouble, 100 for extra trick, 60 fon little slam, and. It being the rub ber game, 250 for rubber. As a mat ter of fact, the extra trick, which particular trick gave him values to the sum of 182 points 32 for the trick itself. 100 for the extra trick and 50 for little slam was a present to him pure and simple from A because of a mistaken opening lead. Lead Hard to Explain. The wrong lead consisted In the lead of his own suit, clubs, rather than his partner's suit, spades. Why he so led it is difficult -to explain. Had his suit been established, it would have been a different matter, but, as it was, it was a" play without any dos- sible justification. On this lead Z was enabled to discard his lone queen, of spades (at the same time that he won the trick in the dummy hand) and thus put himself in position to trump spades rrom the start. . Here is another illustration of a poor double and, penbaps, an even worse redouble: 854 7 6 3 2 9 7 5 7 4 A Q 10 J 10 9 A Q J 4 AKJ Z, the dealer, bid-"no trumps." A passed, and Y, with no help for a no- trumper, tnougn with five clubs to an honor, overcalled, correctly, with "two clubs. B passed. It was the rubber game, and Z,- reasoning that with eight or more clubs in t.e two bands including-at. least -three. honora, auid K62 Y "JSTS AK51 A B 8 63 Z K 10 8 Q 10 6 3 o 9 8 5 2 his othen suits unusually ' well pro tected, he could undoubtedly make his contract, and possibly go game, at "no trumps" (though not at clubs), went to "two no trumps." This A doubled. He did so with the sole object of fright ening T back to diamonds, he appar ently losing sight of the fact that auc tion, unlike poker, is a game of calcu lation and not of bluff. Y, however, did not fall into the trap and passed. Z, though, committed the grievous er ror of redoubling. As has been ex plained, he was practically sure of making his contract. This at the dou bled values made possible by. the mistaken course of his adversary would have given him game, the rub ber game. "Vagaries Occasionally Indulged. When, then, he should redouble and thus pave the way for further bidding is another of those vagaries in which players - occasionally indulge, which even to themselves they would find it difficult intelligently to explain. However, be redoubled, and A, who fully realized by this time the difficul ties whch his rash double had brought upon him, as the one and only chance of saving the rubber, mado the des perate bid of "two spades." Z also by this time realized his mistake, but the only thing now left him was to double the adverse declaration. The result was that A-B went down two tricks and Z-Y scored 200 plus honors, or 218. This score, however, was in the honor score, and considerably less than the rubber would have brought them. And at -one time rubber was in sight! Had A In the first place not made his rash and wholly unwarrantable double Z, in all likelihood, would have made two tricks only, thus falling short of game. This would have given him a score of 50 20 for tricks and 30 for honors. Z would have been confronted by the difficulty of not being able to get the lead in dummy's hand, and so of being comoelled con stantly to lead from his own hand, made up chiefly of tenace suits. A doubtless would have led his fourth best club, which Z would have taken in his own hand. Should he have put up dummy's queen on the happy-go-lucky chance that both ace and king were with the leader (which in reality was the case), he could have led the diamond from the dummy hand and taken the finesse which would have given him game, but such play would have been wholly unwar rantable and contrary to all rules and principles of the game. Poor Double Illustrated. Still another example of a. poor double: . KQJ9 6 AKQJ4 7 6 3 . 10 2 KQJ9762 10 8 7 6 A7 6 6 10 8 4 3 2 A 10 5 4 2 .... 8 4 3 A 4 3 4 9 6 KQJ98 Z called "a spade"; A "two clubs." Y. with three cards of his partner s suit, spades and an established side suit, should have said "two spades." In stead . he said "two diamonds." B passed. Z-Y had been playing in very poor luck. It was the rubber game, with,' the adversaries 27 to their noth ing. Realizing, therefore, the impor tance of making game on the hand, Z went back to spades, calling "two spades." B, who was greatly pleased with the spade bid in the first place, doubled. For every reason he should not have done so. In the first place he is on the wrong side of the de clarer. Secondly, the double of a low contract should not be ventured unless the player making It may double any thing to which the adversaries may shift. B lacks this ability. One of the adversaries had already shown dia monds and there was no assurance the double would not cause him to go back to the suit. Lastly, the double places game within range of possibility for the adversaries. "Two spades" dou bled,' if they keep their contract, will mean game. "Two spades" undou bted would not. Z. after giving the situation a mo ment's consideration, redoubled. Unden many conditions this would have been unwise, but he was practically sure of making good and feared otherwise his partner might go back to dia monds. To be sure the redouble might frighten A into "three clubs," but this chance he ventured. A In reality should have called "three clubs." but he did not, and the hand was played at "two spades." redoubled. ind Z-Y oaado, a scone of 784 216 for trick. Y A B Z AKQJ 10 863 A 6 QJ 2 Z bid "a heart." A "a spade," Y and B passed, Z said "two hearts." A "two spades," and thus it went on until A had called 'four spades." Y, who had been simply biding her time, until the contract should be big enough, now doubled, as she saw the prospect of a much bigger score at the double than at her partner's heart. She trusted, of course, that her partner would un derstand her policy and not Interfere with the double, but not so. Carried away with his glittering array of trumps and apparently obsessed with the belief that they could take tricks far in excess of their ability to do, he went to "five hearts." This closed the bidding, A being only too glad to escape the dangerous spade double. The moment the dummy hand came down Z realized his error, but It was then too late to rectify it and all he could do was to make the oest of a bad situation. His partner was unable to take a single tricky and as he had four losing tricks in his own hand, two diamond tricks, one spade trick and one club trick (a fact which up to this time had apparently escaped him), he made simply his eight trumps and the ace of clubs, in curing a pen alty of 100. Had he allowed his part nens double to stand, the adversaries would have gone down six tricks and Z-Y would have scored 600. Making: Your Car Work. A writer in the June Woman's Home Companion eaye: "We are urged to can all we can, but what is a poor housewife like me to do when the big canneries persist in buying up all the fruit in the regu lar fruit belts, making it difficult for the commission merchant to purchase much, and then charging Impossible prices for the little they are able to get? That is the situation here, at any rate. "Now I have visited in villages and out-of-the-way places long enough to know that much choice fruit goes to waste because of no convenient mar ket. Why, one year, when plums were selling in our city markets for $3.75 per bushel, I went to a tiny town 30 miles away and bought a far better grade for 50 cents. And they were glad to get that much. I know a farmer who would Joyfully have sold his apples last year for 25 cents a bu shel if anyone would come after them. And last Christmas, when I paid 60 cents for fresh eggs, I stumbled across a backwoodsman who thought he was doing exceptionally well to get 25 cents. The reason in most cases was that shipping facilities were inadequate; but I also discovered that many farm ers, or farmers' wives, were poor busi ness managers, and lacked initiative or energy enough to establish commu nication between customers and them selves. "My neighbors are delighted to take any extra supplies I bring home, pay ing me a few cents more than I paid, which helps to buy gasoline for more scouting expeditions." WOMEN WHO RELEASE MEN FOR FIGHTING ADOPT SENSIBLE GARB FOR THEIR LABORS Latest Costume Is Made of Good Quality Khaki and Includes Neat Shirtwaist, WelKFitting Bloomers, Skirt Fastened to Suspender Straps, and Hat With Flexible, Adjustable Brim. A LL over this broad land hundreds of flne-Bpirited American girls are turning to with a will this Summer to do the work of men. and their labors are releasing hundreds of men to take up arms for America. It may not be as romantic to wield rake and hoe in the hot sun as to hand out coffee and doughnuts to the soldier boys in the canteen service or to play the ministering angel in picturesque Red Cross robes of shining white, but these valiant girls are Just as truly doing their bit and their bit la not without hardships, either. Yet the busy farmerettes get a good deal of enjoyment out of their strenu ous labor in the fields and they are going to lay up a splendid store of health and vitality, too, by their exer cise In the open air, their early-to-bed habit and the simple, nourishing food that forms their diet. Farmer Costumes Picturesque. And the workaday togs for field labor appeal to feminine fancy also which is always a help. Working from dawn to dusk In shabby old clothes would not be half as satisfying as working in smart, picturesque and be coming togs that give one a pleasant sense of being dressed for the picture. There is an immense satisfaction In being garbed for the part, and this the schools and colleges that have organ ized agricultural classes have well ap preciated. The farmer girl's costume, besides being altogether practical for Its uses, is agreeably satisfying to the eye and is most fetching on the busy, happy young women who wear it. The costume is made of good quality khaki and includes a neat,vComfortable shirtwaist, well-fitting bloomers, skirt fastened to suspender straps, and hat with flexible, adjustable brim. The bloomers have none of the puffy, baggy look that these garments used to possess. The material, abundant enough to give the bloomer the silhou ette of a smartly-cut skirt, is pleated into a belt and the pleats are stitched all the way down to the edge, where the bloomer is gathered below the knee well below the knee, at a point midway between knee and ankle. The pleats meet at back and front and there Is a flat box pleat on the outer side of each leg; and the whole garment has the look of a slim, graceful skirt. Gathered into a separate belt, so that the bloomer can 'button to it, is the shirtwaist, made with roomy armholes and sufficient gathers across the front. The sleeves have buttoned cuffs and may be rolled back on the arm; the turndown collar leaves the neck cool and unconfined. Neat Skirt for Oceoslonal Wear. The farmer maid wears her waist and bloomers when working in the fields or when "doing her bit" about the farmhouse. For more public appear ances she has a conventional skirt, also of khaki, which may be slipped over the waist-and-bloomer combina tion and which Is held firmly and trlely In position bv natty susDenders in other words, broad straps that -TfcaniiitafTll INCE the days of splendor have passed, or at least have been sus- pended, many of our best Interior decorators are drawing for Inspiration on the self-made schemes of. country folk. Their practicability is unmis takable and they often need but the slightest touch of artistry to make them really charming. Farm houses are becoming every year more delight ful, due in a large measure to modern facilities that have brought city and country into close touch. Many of our best architects are de voting themselves to the study of farm cottages and buildings in groups and this course naturally carries with It interest In the Interior furnishing and finishing. The chief aim is to have all in keeping and so to preserve the char acter of buildings and groups in the choice of accessories. Architects are sure to be trained In conscientious study and we may well learn from them the lesson they preach that fitness should be the dictator in all schemes from palace to dairy. Among the things fit for farm use are the good home-woven rugs, tufted, crocheted, braided, hooked, etc; cot tage furniture, often hand carved and hanad painted, gaily colored wash fab rics for draperies, flowering plants and simple paints and papers. On entering through a side door of one of a group of cottages lately com pleted my first impresssion was that I was in the kitchen, but such was not the case, as immediately became ap parent by the sight of the generous cooking range frankly in view. The kitchen, however, had the same drapery fabric, furniture, rugs and woodwork that were used in the dining-room and later It was seen that these details of decoration were repeated in the living hall as well. The unison afforded was highly satisfying. The kitchen had the self-respecting air of a place wherein an intelligent woman ministered. There was no clut- cross the shoulders and have at the ends two tabs that button to the skirt belt. This skirt has a pleated panel down the front with a deep pockets at either side of the panel, and it falls just over the edge of the bloomer, mid way between knee and ankle. The girl who gardens at home and potters about In lettuce and tomato beds finds this farmer-skirt very useful also. She does not need the khaki waist and blodmer for her sort of light gardening, but dons the skirt over an ordinary white shirtwaist or petticoat, or over a light Summer frock if she has to run out and gather a panful of string beans for the next meal. Breeches and Puttees Popular. There Is a still more picturesque farmerette costume which many of the agricultural organizations have adopt ed for modern woman, working for the war, does seem to have a strong hankering for bona fide breeches and puttees which give such a trig, uniform-like suggestion! This natty' cos tume does away with the shirtwaist and bloomer idea and substitutes a dashing tunic, belted at the waist and flaring almost to the knee over nicely fitted breeches which disappear Just below the knee under smoolhly-straped puttees. Very trim and swagger is the belted tunic, which looks vastly like a uniform coat with its straight coat sleeves, its single-breasted, buttoned front and its big pockets at the hip. It is. withal, a comfortable garment to work in and its wearers contend that it is much more comfortable than the waist and bloomer combination, since the straight tunic, loosely belted or worn without the belt if one pleases, leaves the arms perfectly free as a middy blouse does. Footwear for the Farmer Maid. The foot that treads all day over furrows and stubble must be clad in something besides thin kid or canvas; and the less heel the farmer maid's shoe has the more easily she will walk on soft soil or rutted roads. The best shoe for outdoor gardening is a laced one of soft, supple leather with welted sole that lifts the foot well above damp ground, and a very broad. low heel. Such shoes are more comfortable for the average woman than stout calfskin boots such as are used for tramping, and leave one less tired at night. Woolen stockings, a fresh pair each day, or twice a day if one can manage it. will give greater comfort and keep the feet in better condition than thin lisle or silk hose. The Camp Fire Girls and the Girl Scouts who are doing their share of war service have uniforms too familiar to need description. A delightful outfit of the Camp Fire girl is the middy and bloomer combination reserved- for playtime In the woods. The middy Is of white cotton duck, made to cling trimly at the lp by a close band of the material, and the full bloomer Is smoothly pleated to give the slim sil houette now favored. Very different this silhouette from the old-fashioned one given by., a. blouse belted at the L ii ii 1 nri-ni r. i . ter of pots and pans, but a pretty Welch I dresser, with long shallow shelves, held the utensils that were sightly, whi the more cumbersome pieces were hid den away in a. prety painted chest that extended below two windows at one end of the room and served, too, as a window seat. This was painted old Ivory, and the owner, who had no "knack" for painting orrmments. had adorned It effectively with well-selected transfer pictures, merely a garland of flowers at the center of the front and the center of the lid. All of the floors were stained with a walnut stain and finished with flat unglazed . varnish and the rugs were woven rag rugs in tan and blue and black. The woodwork was old ivory. In the dining-room and kitchen - the window sills were widened by means of a shelf and a pot of geraniums was placed at both corners of each win dow. Next to the glass throughout were upper and lower sash curtains of white linens. The over draperies on all of the windows were made of blue, tan, black and white plaid linen. They were purely ornamental, made up in pairs of short side curtains with a shallow flounce of the same material separating them, and hung on the same rod. with a French heading. Roller shades of old ivory linen were used. The plaid linen was repeated prettily throughout the scheme. The kitchen tablecloth, for example, was made of It. Two deep-seated, low-backed. over stuffed chairs, in the living hall, had slip covers of It and the blue velveteen upholstered day bed had two round plaid pillows with a white filet over rose rajah pillow at either end. Betwen the two windows in the liv ing hall was a little walnut gate leg table with a parchment lamp on It and on the wall above the table was one of those attractively framed mirrors, having candle holders made right to the painted frame, the flat wood being ornamented with transfer floral motifs. The kitchen wall was sand-colored waistline and gathered bloomer puff ing out at the hips. All the busy girls this Summer have knitted slipons. purled at the waist and hip to give the clinging line; and the favored color is khaki brown. The fashionable new gray is a misty shade. A charming bathing suit is of silver gray. Sure of Her Personal Daintiness Therefore Sure of Herself NO woman, no matter how beautiful, can retain her cJiarm so long1 as her presence does not exhale sweetness. Her greatest enemy is Excessive Armpit Perspiration. It destroys her poise; ruins her most ex pensive gowns and subjects her constantly to humiliation. CXlt A tiptio Litruui) Ends Excessive Perspiration Under the Arms and Destroys All Odor No more dress shields! No more embarrassment at dances or other social gatherings! The old, original NONSPI. the tried, the proven, the fruaranteed remedy, insures your per sonal daintiness your greatest charm. NONSPI is an Antiseptic Liquid unseented and free from Artificial Coloring Matter. Dealers everywhere sell it millions of women use it leading physicians and chemists endorse it. About two applications a week will free vou from perspiration worry and daily baths do not lessen the effect. C0e (several months aopply of toilet and drag dealers or by mail dirsct. Or. send 4e for tenting sstsnplc and what madical author ties say about thm harmfnln of axceanive armpit parapirmtioo. THE NONSPI COMPANY, 2S15 Walnut Street, Kansas Cry, Ma. plaster and the dining-room and llv ing hall were papered in striped paper, alternating equal narrow strips of sand and old Ivory. The dining-room was nice. The oval table was painted old Ivory with trans fer flowers arranged in an oval wreath near the edge," and the rush-bottom chairs, with ivory painted wooden frames, had floral transfers Impressed on the horizontal splits. Three of these chairs were used in the kitchen, four in the dining-room, and a couple more found their place In the living hall. A little corner cupboard graced one corner of the dining-room and in an other corner was a small kidney table of walnut, with a black oval tray decked with a bunch of flowers. The tray stood upright and at either end of the table, flanking the tray, was a white china candlestick holding a coral colored candle. Several painted wood en sconces on the wall had real candles in them, though an electric light clus ter with three alabaster shades de pended from the ceiling center. In the kitchen the rugs were small, but in the dining-room and living-room they were large. Book ends holding a few favorite books and smoking things added their quota of pleasure. There were but few other accessories. A great wall clock In the kitchen, a little mirror with painted frame in the dining-room and several simply framed mezzotints on the walls of the living hall formed the full extent of extras. The whole place had a satisfying air of completion. It had that indefinable quality that always accompanies beau ty, that is shall we say "effortless" or "artless"? the sort of quality that is so admired in some voices and in facts that are too young to know how love ly they are. Old-fashioned transfer pictures are having a wide vogue at present. An old chair that has been rejuvenated by means of this easy expedient is shown in the sketch. The motif of wheat, daisies and poppies is copied in crewel work on the novel cushion that- lies like a padded scarf across the chair seat. The cushion Is of oyster green linen, weighted down at the corners with cherry-colored worsted tassels, and the chair, which Is painted oyster green, has old blue "trimmings at the turnings. The walls in this room are oyster green and the draperies are of ecru colored chintz, with a splashy design of turquoise paniers, filled with pop pies and cornflowers and daisies, gayly red, white and blue in their assortment. This fabric is used for the table cover, bordered with plain ecru linen, and for the chimney valance. Several cushions are in red and ecru striped linen and one of plain ecru has an applique cue from the drapery chintz stitched to it. The room is inexpensively furnished, yet it has a homelike response to the touch of fingers that have left their imprint of affectionate Interest. a