1
TIIE SUNDAY OREQOXIAX, PORTLAND, AriilL 7, 1918.
LITTLE TAILLEUR OF BLACK SATIN GIVES
EFFECT OF REFINEMENT AND , DAINTINESS
Full Pleated Tunic Cut Into Points and Faced With Cream Satin Forms Impressive Feature of Charming Gar
ment Redfern Design Notable for Its Gracious, Flowing Lines Conservative Tailor-Made Suits.
5V .... -;.v-. - f . I
:-:v-2i ' ' - itttfr-"- '
.....V
HLnEi is a rciintmrm inn oainxi-i w I
nru about this little ilk tallleur I l . S
ling. The V; '
i '"' '
r:t
m v . & i
appea
suit Is built of black satin charmeuse
nd has th new narrow-at-th-anklc
skirt wlUftilns toward a Ratbrrrd top.
The coat has simple lines above the
waist line aud its lull, pleated tunic, cut
into points and faced with cream satin
la its Impressive feature.
A collar of th cream satin finishes
the neck and embroideries In shades of
mustard, olive and saffron ornament
coat and collar.
The black h.it Is trimmed and faced
witlt olive silk and with black and mustard-colored
icrapes with olive leaves.
Again the cver-recurrln continental
tlue-and-tan: this time in a combina
tion of sand-colored mohair and wor
sted fabric and blue-toned foulard silk.
Itedfern achieved this jrewn. which Is
notably graceful and dtitcrilphcd be
C4U of Its gracious, flowinc lines. Its
simplicity and the clever combination
of two fabric and colors.
The loop drapery, faced with foulard
is an Interesting detail, and this drap
ery, you observe. Is carried down from
the left side of the bodice and up acain
to the back of the skirt a most com
plicated yet apparently simple arrange
unit. e e
A conservative tailomade this, suit
able for an older woman yet verv smart
and fetching on a younger one. The ma-"
terial Is fine, smooth-tainted tricot
serge In navy blue with a great deal
of black soutache on the panels of the
coat and nowhere else on the costume.
The coat has a collar and vest of
black satin and the sleeves are cut In
three-quarter length to reveal buttoned
coat sleeves of black satin underneath.
In this Instance, worn with white
pumps and stocking and a dashing lit
tle military turban, the tallleur Is dash
ing and youthful for all Its dignified
lines.
ANSWERS TO CORRESPONDENTS
BT LILIAN TINOLil
PORTLAXI'. Mrra 1 Will you lnd:r
s tlir.-c'Mn f ir mjklns roi4 t breil?
1 It a iurri:.oui and KikmI f r rhlltlren as
a-t tread? Tttanalr you in alvni.
itR5. W. M.
As a wheat substitute oatmeal pos
sesses several advantages. It ran be
obtained easily, and If bought in bulk
Is not much higher in price than flour,
especially as. pound for pound. It yields
more calories than flour. Holled oats
r oatmeal will abaorb more water
than wheat flour and retain it longer.
'or this reason oatmeal bread keepa
fresh longer than wheat bread. The
ea'mcal ioaf haa a greater nutritive
value than even the straight wheal
loaf, and Its weet nutty taste com
mands Instant favor.
Sandwiches of oatmeal bread and but
ter need no addition of nirat to please
the children. A few hickory nut or
walnut meats addVd conver. oatmeal
oread Into a special treat for those old
enough to be allowed outs. A few
raisins, too. are good In sandwich
bread.
tolled oats One quart water, one
or two rakes compressed yeast, or one
half cake dry yeast, according to the
time allowed for rising; four teaspoons
alt. two tablespoons molasses, three
snips rolled oats, eight cups wheat
Ituur. fc often U ycaal in one-Xouxtli
cup of the water, lukewarm. Heat the
rest to boiling, then stir in the rolled
oats. Let It boll up once. CooL add
the salt and syrup, and when lukewarm
add the softened yeast. Then add the
i.lour to make a stiff dough, alls and
knead thoroughly. Let rise about three
and one-half hours, or until double in
bulk. Knead or cut down Lhe dough
add the remaining flour and let rise
again ttatil double In bulk (about one
and onr-baif hours). Shape Into
loaves. rise In pans until double
In bulk. Hake 60 minutes to one hour.
If dry yeast is used make a sponge
as follows: Soften the yeast In one
fourth cup of water. Heat the rest
to boiling. Stir In the rolled oats and
boil up once. Cool, add the softened
yeast and one cup of flour. Beat well
and let rise over night.
liaised oatmeal muffins are good for
breakfast and are a useful change from
the "quick breads.- of which one tends
to tire. A few raisins or dates might
be added If liked. The same mixture
with raisins or dates might be spread
In a baking pan one Inch deep and
baked as a plain "coffee cake." after
raising and sprinkling ' with crumbs
soaked In syrup, together with a few
chopped aula, and a little cinnamon if
liked.
Kor a rioher coffee cake, four -table
spoons more syrup and ou wcli-beatca
egg might be added to the mixture, as
well as the raisins or a few chopped
dates, or home-dried pitted cherries.
Any kind of crumbs, bread crumbs,
cornbread, or muffin crumbs, or cake
crumbs, can be soaked in syrup to give
additional sweetness and decoration in
the "top dressing." Some makers punch
a little hole here and there in spread
ing the nuts, spice and crumbs, so that
interesting "accidental" bits of sweet
ness find their way inside the plainer
layer.
Raised Oatmeal Muffins One cake
yeast, one-fourth cup lukewarm water,
two tablespoons syrup, two tablespoons
fat, one cup hot .milk, one cup rolled
oats, one-half cup whole wheat flour,
or 'out flour or' barley flour, one-half
cup sifted white flour. Boil oats and
fat in milk one minute. Let stand until
lukewarm. Soften yeast in lukewarm
water and add syrup. Combine the two
mixtures. Add flour, and salt, and beat
well. The batter should be thick
enough to drop heavily from the spoon.
Cover and let rise until light, about one
hour. In a moderately warm place. Fill
well-greased muffin pans two-thirds
full. Let rise about 40 minutes. Bake
!5 minutes In a moderately hot oven.
Bread made with equal parts oat
flour and wheat flour is particularly
good. Many people find they have bet
ter success with this than with the
rolled oats bread given above, and It
takes less wheat. From one-third to
one-half of the oat flour might be
scalded and the rest mixed in with the
wheat flour. A good plan is to use
for scalding the coarser part of the oat
flour "obtained on sifting it. Equal
parts wheat flour and equally mixed
oat flour and barley or oat flour and
rice flour would give other varieties of
bread liked by different people. The
amount of wheat In the first recipe for
rolled oats bread might be further re
duced by at least one cup and replaced
by oat flour, barley flour or sifted rice
flour if a strong bread flour Is used.
The exact quantities of flour in any
bread mixture cannot always be stated
In a general recipe, since the kind of
flour used, the amount of moisture in
the air and In the flour, the tempera
lure of the mixture and the method of
handling cause some slight variation,
but a knowledge of the principles of
bread-making will enable any woman,
after possibly a trial or two (to get the
knack with her own Darticular flour
and oven) to make very satisfactory
"fifty-fifty" victory loaves. A little
mashed potato can usually be Intro
duced into nearly all victory breads
and m-111 heln in saving flour and in
keeping the bread moist. Where potato
Is used very stiff kneading is gener
ally necessary.
PORTLAND. March . Desr Miss Tingle:
Tqu have so kindly been a real help to me
befor. and now 1 have a few troubles again
anil torn to ysa.
I want to know bow to make a "conserva
tion avrup. I have a soapstone gnddle
(greaaeless) and csn utlllia buckmheat and
various ot the fiours we should use. but
want a svrup for them. It mut be definite
aa to proportions, as 1 am not good at recipes
which say I may do so ana so. Also, is
not karo syrup really Klucose. and la It not
Injurious to young children. 1 have several
and don't wish to overdo thla conservation
business and make them 111.
Todav I ipade a most delirious cake of
corn syrup and barley flour, so 1 have no
scruples about It.
Then. too. my yeast bread Is not good
when I substitute, sly white, bread Is really
fine, nice fine-grained bread, but when I
put other flours In It I Invariably get a
coarse, dry bread. Do you suppose other
fiours require more kneading, or Is this too
vacua for you to locate my trouble?
Thanking you for your previous help and
for this time. too. 1. C. B.
It Is practically Impossible to give a
really -"definite" recipe for a "con-
tervatlon syrup". such as you describe.
for lho excellent reason tUut coraujerj
clal glucose varies considerably
density and sweetness, and a saccha
rometer is seldom a part of the ord
nary housekeepers equipment. But
am sure you will have no difficulty 1
using "judgment" enough to dilute an
flavor the heavy glucose to a consist
ency and sweetness suitable for dif
ferent purposes.
I would make two grades of syrup,
one of the thickness of ordinary Karo
or molasses. lor cooking, and the othe
thinner, like maple syrup, for table use.
Karo, for table use, is much improved
by being diluted with a little- water
and then flavored with mapleine or
honey or lemon or orange rind
caramel to taste.
Home-made conservation syrup. Add
to thick commercial glucose equal
parts tor more or less according to its
density and the kind of syrup desired
of hot water. Boll five minutes, then
add either honey or sugar la very little
at a time) until the desired sweetness
Is obtained. With honey usually no
additional sugar or flavoring will be
needed, though for variety it may be
combined with others.
Other flavorings may be obtained as
follows: (1) Mapleine. Make as near
like "real" maple as possible. 2) Mo
lasses. Add one tablespoon at a tim
with one tablespoon of sugar until
brown sugar" taste is obtained. 3
Molasses and lemon or orange rind. Cut
the rind very thin (so as to be yellow
on both sides) and boil in the syrup
until It is sufficiently flavored for you
personal taste. The molasses should
be added very cautiously so as not to
overpower the rind flavor; a little
sugar may also be needed. (4) Orange
or lemon alone prepared as above and
slightly colored with caramel. (5)
Lemon and honey. (6) Honey and sor
ghum. Add as sugested for molasses.
(7) Caramel and vanilla. Cook six
tablespoons sugar with two tablespoons
water until very light brown (being
careful not to let it get to the deep
brown, bitter stage), dissolve in as lit
tie boiling water as possible. Use thl
caramel syrup both for coloring and
flavoring. It combines well with
very small quantity of vanilla extract
(or lemon or mapleine If liked) added
after the syrup is cool, or is good alone
or with honey.
Other . combinations are. of course,
possible, but the above are the most
useful for general table purposes and
for baking.
If the finished cold syrup is thicker
or thinner than you wish, it Is -a very
simple matter to add a little more hot
water, or to dou it a own a nine.
Be sure to use as little sugar as pos
sible in sweetening. I made a good
syrup the other day with two table
spoons sugar and one tablespoon mo
lasses to two cups glucose and two
cups water, with a little lemon rind;
but, as I said before, different Bamples
of glucose vary considerable in thick
ness and sweetness.
Another good plan is to combine
canned fruit Juice with glucose to
make a "fruit syrup" for table use,
or you can boil down the fruit juice
to a syrup alone. You can usually
"save out" a little juice in opening
canned fruit and the syrups thus made
usually require no additional sugar and
are particularly good with hot cakes
or plain puddings.
Karo is chiefly glucose or corn syrup.
As far as is- known at present glucose
is no more harmful than ordinary cane
or beet sugar. Kither sugar or glu
cose in concentrated solutions or in
large quantities undiluted is likely to
be injurious to young children or to
any person of delicate digestion.
Whether syrups made with either sugar
or glucose should be given to "young
children" depends upon how young.
Certainly not below 8 'years and then
In strict moderation.
It is so easy to take an over large
quantity of syrup or sugar or candy,
hence the need for care if the children
are to be given a fair chance for their
best physical development, "Child con
servation must go hand in hand with
food conservation. But with a knowl
edge of food values "food conserva
tion" may prove most beneficial for
the rising generation, just as many old
er people are being trained into better
health by a change in their food habits.
Get Itose s "f eeding the, fainuy"
from the Public Library and read care
fully the chapters on food for chil
dren of various ages. It will well re
pay you.
In regard to your bread, it Is a little
bard to help you, as I do not know ex
actly how you proceed and with what
ubstitutes. Head the answer on oat
meal bread given above. Usually these
ubstitute breads tend to be too moist
rather than dry, as you describe. Gen-
rally, in substitute breads, if rolled
oats, cream of barley, cornmeal or
whole or broken or coarse ground rice
should be used it is best to scald or
cook these materials, according to the
ize and kind of granules and the
amount of previous cooking (as in
rolled oats) that they may have had.
This gives a better flavor, a more di
gestible mixture and usually a product
both moister and lighter than if the dry
materials were used. Of course, whole
dry rice could not possibly be used,
but cream of barley, cornmeal or rolled
oats, for Instance, are sometimes used
dry by some makers and scalded by
others, and the latter method usually
gives the better product.
Scalding a part of the substitute ma
terial Is also helpful sometimes when
different substitute flours are used, as
suggested in connection with the oat
flour bread mentioned above, the
cooked starch apparently aiding in en
tangling some of the gas given off by
the yeast and so producing a better
texture. Always cool to lukewarm be
fore adding the yeast, and be sure the
yeast -s fresh and strong.
Of course, breads made with substi
tute flours can never possibly be as
light aad spongy as bread made with
white wheat flour because of the lack
of gluten in the substitutes, but these
breads are usually just as nutritious
and wholesome.
Generally very thorough kneading is
required by victory breads.
Frequently, too, it will be found that
better results are obtained by using
just at first a rather hotter. oven than
for white bread, checking it afterwards
to give a ratiier longer, slower baking
time, but this varies a little with the
kind of substitute and the kind of oven
used.
A few raisins in the" darker breads
are useful to give moisture, flavor and
interest. Molasses lor sweetening Is
also popular with many housekeepers.
VANCOUVER. ' Wash., Jan. ' 28. Will you
please give me the new recipe for caramel
pie? I ate some at a luncheon served with
caramel ice cream, which was very nice.
Will you tll as soon as you can how to
can strawberries to keep them from going
to juice and losing their color? What kind
are the best to can? This Is early, but you
may have to wait for suitable time to run
It In The Oregonian. M. A. M.
I hope the luncheon was. before the
war, and that none of your irienus
would be so thoughtless and unpatri
otic as to serve both pie and ice cream
at one meal in these days!
You give me no idea 'of the type of
pie, whether maa like a naked custara
or with a. "fluffy" baked filling, or
with a cooked but unbaked cream fill
ing in a pastry shell or with a whipped
cream or Bavarian cream filling. Any
of these might be described as ''cara
mel pie" if the filling was flavored
with caramel. Or was it really a kind
of cake with a very soft, creamy fillin
such a9 is sometimes called ( believ
In Boston) "cream pie?" Describe the
pie aa closely as you can. andi if it can
be made on conservation principles
will give you a recipe as soon as
can. If not, I. shall be glad to glvi
you one when the food shortage
over; though, in any case, I should not
advise you to serve it with ice cream
in regard to the berries, it is best to
select the smaller, firmer varieties for
canning, rather than the very large
ones containing a higher percentage of
water. Unless canned in a very rich1
syrup strawberries are bound to shrink
and lose color somewhat. Wrapping in
brown paper before storing helps to
keep the color.
If the berries are for home use and
not for sale a mixed nynip (of corn
yrup and sugar) can be used which
will not only conserve sugar, but also
help to keep the berries plump; out 1
believe it is against the law to offer
for sale berries preserved with glucose
n this way. Not that the latter
harmful, but it Is a fraud on the pocket
or used to be before war prices) of
the purchaser, who is entitled to pure
cane sugar.
Canned strawberries Use only per
fectly fresh, ripe, firm, sounds full-
colored berries. Prepare in the usual
way and add 8 ounces (1 cup) sugar
with 2 tablespoonf uls water or strained
berry juice to each quart prepared
erries. Boil very slowly for 15 min-
tes in a granite pan. Let cool and re
main several hours, or over night, in
the syrup. Then pack the berries Into
ot glass jars, fill up with the juice.
djust the lids, etc., but not quite tight,
set on a rack in a wash-boiler, cover
with hot water and boil eight min-
tes, counting from the time that boll
ng actually begins. Remove from the
oiler, tighten, the lidsinvert to cool
rap In paper and store in a cool place.
Berries canned by this method usually
have a good color and seldom float to
the top of the can.
A good syrup of similar density,
made with juice obtained from crushed
berries, glucose and sugar, will usually
give fairly good results and save a con
siderable amount of sugar. When the
berry season is nearer further canning
suggestions will be given in this col
timn, po watch for them.'
me? Source Yteroelu Vr,
Dainty Remembrances Now
in Evidence at Shops.
Article Shown Suggest Wedding
Presents of Moderate Cost.
THE shops abound in dainty remem
brances, as usual at this season,
and many of the articles shown suggest
wedding presents of moderate cost, or
acceptable gifts for week-end hostesses
later in the season. For example, tall,
slender trumpet vases of Sheffield
plate, 15 inches bgh at only $3; grace
ful oval mirrors almost three times as
long as their width, framed in antique
gold and the length 27 inches also
only $5. An elephant is said to bring
luck to the house, and two elephants
of burnished metal, designed for book
ends will bring your friend's house
hold a double allowance of luck for the
modest outlay of $3.50.
The woman who is planning her
garden will appreciate a garden set of
kneeling cushion, trowel and digging
fork; the cushion made, of yellow and
black checked oilcloth, the trowel and
fork painted to match. For the maid
who has a sweetheart at the front,
there Is a handsome burnished gold
Wonderlift
Back-Lace
This Sensible Stay Keeps Wrinkles Away!
You will soon look old and worn if you don't keep welL To
star well, nothing: is so important as to keep your vital organs
working: normally. This they can't do, if pushed or dropped
out of proper place.
The Nemo Wonderlift Bandlet
opens a clear road to better health and a better figure. It
takes up the work of the supporting; abdominal muscles when,
those muscles become tired and ineffective; if worn soon enough,
it strengthens them so that they don't give out. There are Won
derlift models for all figures from slender to extra-stout. '
TWO SYSTEMS OF ADJUSTMENT!
WONDERLIFT
BACK-LACED
Gives the same priceless
health service as the "Mar
velace." Healthful, ultra-stylish
and comfortable.
.AH Usual Sizes . . 1 fi fi"l
Very Great Values J O.UU
WONDERLIFT
MARVELACE
Adj'usted by short lacing- at
side-front. Supporting front
steels at centre. Closed, venti
lated back.
For All Fi.or.s?
In All sues .
SOLD EVERYWHERE!
The Nemo Hygienic-Fashion Institute. New York City
, o.. i BRASSIERES
"FIT AS YOU FASTEN"
Patented Adjustable Lacing
Varisss atsdeb, for All Fans $1.00 aad J1.50
photograph frame fit for even his pho
tograph in smart uniform togs.
For the housekeeper 'there are trivets'
of Sheffield plate. King James platters
of the same metal with the famous
well and tree design grooved into the
platter for gravy, and beautiful fruit
bowls of amber glass set in a wrought
iron stand.
Don't Send Non-Essentials to
Boys in France.
Things 'Sot Needed Delay Delivery
of Things Essential, f
THERE Is truth in the-criticism of a
certain newspaper of recent date,
upon the unwisdom, and selfishness of
women who are mailing packages of
nonessentials, . or of merchandise that
could easily be purchased in France at
less price, to soldiers at the front. Every
package of this sort takes up valuable
space in the mails and retards by so
much the prompt delivery of more
necessary merchandise. In the class of
nonessentials may be included articles
ent merely for the sake of sentiment,
........... . . rr.i
articles mienaea as joues. luese
packages may touch or amuse the re
cipients, but they are scarecely import
ant enough to warrant the delaying of
other, really needed things that will
bring real comfort and cheer .to those
who may be anxiously awaiting the
gifts from home.
On the other hand there are the pack
ages i of things which . could just
as well be purchased "over there." By
an arrangement between Paris and
American stores, orders may be given
In this country for merchandise which
will be promptly delivered at the front
by the Paris shop; the price of the
merchandise being paid by-the sender
hen the order is given. This excellent
service has been instituted in several
American cities and is a great conven
ience to relatives and friends who wish
provide comforts and luxuries for
oldiers in France in the quickest pos-
ble way, and without the exasperating
elays incident to parcel post delivery.
One selects for 12. $4, jfi up to 12
a carton of comforts and luxuries
for one's particular fighting man; say
a knitted -garment, 'some socks, toilet
requisites, writing paper, tinned meats,
chocolate, and so on, pays the price of
the carton and dismisses the matter
from mind. The bureau of -service at
tends to all the rest; forwarding the
order to the Paris shop which will pack
the carton and ship it instantly to the
front- And naturally, it takes a pack
age much less time to go from Paris
to the front than from America to the
front.
Silk Bloomers Wanted.
The vogue for glove silk bloomers is
big, says th Dry Goods Economist. The
colors match the dress with which they
are to be worn, as khaki, when milady
dons her motor togs, and navy blue
when she wears a suit of blue. Pink
lisle envelope chemise are in the mar
ket, sometimes made -with a camisole
top of glove silk and lace, or again
entirely of self -material.
FRECKLES
Now Is the Time to Get Rid of The He
Ugly Spots.
There's no longer the slightest need
of feeling ashamed of your freckle's, as
the prescription othine double strength
is guaranteed to remove these homely
spots. ,
Simply get an ounce of othine dou
ble strength from any druggist and
apply a little of it night and morning
and you should soon see that even the
worst freckles have begun to disappear,
while the lighter ones have vanished
entirely. It is seldom that more than an
ounce is needed to completely clear the
skin and gain a beautiful clear com
plexion. Be sure to ask for the double
strength othine, as this is sold under
guarantee of money back if it falls to
remove f reoklps. Adv.
3Qm to get rid of them
Skin specialists' are tracing fewer and fewer
troubles to the blood more to bacteria and para
sites that are carried into the pores with dust,
soot and grime.
Clear your skin of any blemishes caused by
this most powerful and persistent enemy by this
effective local ' treatment. Just before retiring,
wash in your usual way with warm water and
Woodbury's Facial Soap ancf then dry your face.
Now dip the tips of your fingers in warm water
and rub them on the cake of Woodbury's until
they are covered with a heavy cream-like lather. .
Cover each blemish with a thick coat of this soap
cream and leave it on for ten minutes. Then
rinse very carefully with clear, hot water; then
with cold.
Use Woodbury's regularly in your daily toilet,
This will make your skin so firm and active that
it will resist the frequent cause of blemishes and
keep your complexion free from them. .
You will find a 25c cake of Woodbury's Facial -Soap
sufficient for a month or six weeks of this
treatment and for general cleansing use for this
sec
time. Get a cake today and begin to bring to your
skin that greater clearness, freshness and charm
you have longed for. Woodbury's is for sale at
drug stores and toilet goods counters everywhere
throughout the United States and Canada.
Write today for a week's size cake
For 5c we will send you a trial size cake of
Woodbury's Facial Soap large enough to last fof
a week of this Woodbury treatment, together with,
the booklet "A Skin You Lovt to Touch," which
gives the proper treatment for all of the com
moner skin troubles.
For 12c we will send you the treatment booklet and
samples of Woodbury's Facial Soap, Facial Cream and
Facial Powder. Send today to The Andrew Jergecs
Co., Spring Grove Ave., Cincinnati, Ohio.
you live in Canada, address The Andrews Jergeiu 1
Ct., Limited, 6103 Saerbrttkt Street, Perth, Ontarit,