THE -SUNDAY OREGOXIAX, PORTLAND, 3IARCII 24, 1918. 7 COMFORTABLE PAJAMA LOUNGING GARMENT IS LATEST CREATION IN FASHION CENTERS Jacket Is Cut ma Looee Linn Like Kimono and Trousers So Loose and Straight That on Standing Figure They Look Like a Skirt Color Effects Pretty. , ... - i " f V,; V l r v.-- - A mil rVlu . v i'X:sfi l it i - 1 VT e I fill''. ' I V ill 'S.,-'"? C ; M -rrr - - ."yv . Ji U . 1 m "mm - II; j I I I II.--' W ; I I I v v,: i . ' i IN : 1 1 jr x ; ill in . y i v . hi III ' , . Ik 1 1 I of r v I ii y - ' III ft- V - Ill III. AT ' " 1 1 . P Ml ' A J y TV. - ill v t . - ! t ; ii ir II r r A r - I . 1 1 ill - . . Ik.-,-. ill III' ' ' A llv : lll i II I h COMFORTABLE and rraeerol. too, Im this paiama lounging s&ment. th4ackrl cut on Ioom lines Ilk a kimono and th trousers so looss snd stralKtit that oo ths standing- flgurs ttty look llks a skirt. Ths occIIkss Is mads of fleah-tlnted crcps ds chins bound st sll edges with self-toned satin. The buttons ar of stuffed satla tike little tomato cuahlons and odd Japanese) embroideries ar scattered er Jacket and trousers: a pagoda on the Jacket front and ttny Geisha girl SB th sleeves. s s On smsrtly tailored and strap! stilt of navy serge lbs bride of Spring will be sure to have: and It Is equally csr- tala that her tailored ault will have a waistcoat of on sort or another. for walatcuats and amart suits ar In separable Juat now. With this trim little belted coat of dark blue serg Is worn a waistcoat or whits satin with coin dots In blue. Th waistcoat fas tens with two large pearl buttons, and Its broad collar turns back over th collar of the coat. A wing-trimmed hat of nillj.li straw accompanies this practical traveling costume. see Even th bridal gown Is not allowed nor than Its fair share of material these war days, yet there Is no obvious effect ot small allowance In this grace ful gown of white satin overdraped with embroldrred chiffon. Ths sleeves are of tulle and the tulle velL arranged In a new cap fashion, falls to th very end of the satin train. Thrr Is a graduated wing drapery at either side of the skirt which adds to the grace of the costume, and the surplice bodice of chiffon Is edged with pearl beads. Minus th long satin train and the tulle sleeves the costume will make a charming dance frock for later wear. I To Save on Shortening. la substituting a pur vegetable shortening tn a recipe, leaving all oth er ingredients the same, we must re member that ths vrgetable shortening f '?a 'U'i"r ,.hn bultr or ordinary I tablespoon of bolter use a scant Si of a substitutln Vra. w hen t he recipe rails for a I tablespoon of vegetable shortening. In use one-fo g oleomargarine for butter fourth less of oleomargarine. ANSWERS TO CORRESPONDENTS ET LILIAN TINGLE. LCABt;i;Gk Or Kind:? rue a recipe for In HUD. R. S. at. I hope the following will suit you: Nut loaf On cup nut meats, one cup snashed potatoes, one cup sifted bread crumbs (corn bread crumbs may be ttsetl . one to oue and one-Ralf tea spoons salt, one-fourth teaspoon pep per. Ho to three tablespoons chopped onions, one tablespoon shortening, two tablespoons lemon Juice, one-half tea spoon eusar or corn syrup, one table spoon chopped parsley may be omit ted). Cook the onion In the shorten lr.c until light brown, add all the other Ingredients mlth sufficient stock milk or water to moisten, mix thoroughly. adding more seasoning If liked, i'lace In well-greased baking dish, or shape Into a loaf and brush with oil as pre ferred. Hake until nicely browned and serve i:h brown cream or tomato sauce s-f preterred. Nut loar with oatmeal Slake as above, but substitute one cup cooked rolled oats for either the twumba or potatoes, or ue two caps well-cooked rolled oats with one well-besten egg. omitttcg both potatoes snd crumbs. A little grated cheese may be added If liked, or the amount of nuts may be slightly increased. Another variation Is made by using ens cup cottage cheese In place of the potatoes In the f'.rst recipe. In this ease, a taelcspoonful or two of chopped pimento or canoed green pepper may be l.ked. PORTLAND. V.rrh :!. My ttoar Vise Tingle: 1 aoctced la y.sterdav's Orgoala aa inquiry front someone tn Wsldport. Or.. f.r a pie cruse eemenstrated la fort : And. feeing sot wr. 1 think the recipe referred 1. fes trie one stvea be M.ss Jofcnsoe curing ur housewives campeisa. anel It Is quite e:ronuou.y coasertswos. Tan rec-ip Is as fwl.ews; Two cepe flne?y-gTonf oatmeal, t enp bouvw a;cx. X uJi-wa law a klUe aa.k Frald the oatmeal with the water, add the ft and mis thoroughly. Holl very thin and line a small pie or tart tin with the mix ture. Bake tn a hot ovenr fill as desired. 1 give Ihte. thinking you may care to use It. as It Is really quite good; and If people must nse pie. we might as well give the the best conservation, crust that we can. alKd. L P. If. Many thanks for your recipe. It Is not the kind of "hot water pastry that my correspondent asked for (I did not quote her letter quite in full), but la an excellent "substitute pie crust1 and one that should be freely used (with plenty of fruit sweetened with syrup rather than sugar) to sav bread and to. "use perishables." The same mixture . rolled out and baked like crackers is an excellent sub stitute for bread, toast, or crackers con taining what flour. It Is, In fact, one well-known type of the popular old- fashioned oa it cake which for genera lions has been used In place, of bread by many people in Scotland. A little baking powder Improves the consls tency when It Is to be used for this purpose. Slightly sweetened snd with three teaspoons baking powder to the quan tities given above. It makes a good plain cookie for children. - THE PALLE.t, Or.. March Mi My Dear Mlae Tingle: A short time ago someone ssaed In regard to the use of crlsco cans fur canning. I have used cottolenc. syrup and crlsco cans fur years without lacquering them. I do net solder the tops en. but use tne eld-fasbloned sealing wax, as my mother used to do when 1 was a little girl. ft takes some time, as you have to work the wax occasionally, aa It cools, to keep it from running down the can. 1: If they are better when lacquered, will you please tell me how to do II and what de you u 2. 1 wonder If yos eaS help me. X had a fruit cooky recipe that 1 liked so mech. la moving. II ita mlepiaced and although I've tried several t times. 1 can't get the proportions right. Ths molasses. brown jur. asorwsoBeV raj.fJ. aad sj;c rf boiled three minutes? when partially cooled the sods was sdded. then the ckks and flour. 1 presume substitute flours could be used Inetesd of wheat. 3 I'd also Ilka to know how to kill the mother In home-made vinegar. Thanking you. . JllW. A. L. M. ' I. 'I think yon can buy the right kind of lacquer, for the inside of tins at any large hardware store in Portland, explaining carefully the purpose for which you 'want lu Directions for use would .presumably accompany 1L This lacquering is absolut'ly. necessary for fruits or for acid vegetables, like to matoes, though some of the other vege tables can be put up In unlacquered tins aa, of course, they are commer cially). The tins can be soldered or closed with wax as you describe, or paraffin 'can be used If great care Is taken to make a perfect seal. I will try to give you more details about the lacquer later. In the-meantime come reader may have a suggestion to offer. S. Possibly, though, some reader may come to the rescue with your cookie recipe, which, at the moment, I cannot place front your' description. I may think of one to fit later, however. Be sure to modify such a recipe by the use of syrup In place -if sugar, the low est possible amount of shortening and the use of "'substitute flours in place of wheat flour. Equal parts barley and rice flour, or oatmeal, and barley flour or oatmeal barley and rice, or potato flour will be found very good in making wheatless cakes or cookies, especially where one or more eggs can be used. 3. Try heating the vinegar, but keep It well below boiling point. PORTLAND. Or- March- 52. Dear Miss Tingle: Would you send me a recipe for the edible preparation of flax seed. 1 was ad vised quite recently to eat flax seed In or der to Increase my weight. I weigh at present but l-3 pounds and I am ft feet. 5 Inches tall, which Is not enough weight for person oc my stature. 1 have many enlarged pores on my fare which . I have been unaoie to remove. If you have any remedy for them, .please send that also. .4 sea, tnciojjng aa adofcucd c&vclcpg to. that If you have the Information you ma; send It to me so as to receive it more quick ly. If you do not have the above Informa tion.' then you may publish the shove In the paper. Thanking you ln advance for the many favors that you may give us and for those that you have already given ua MRS. E. C. S. I think your best plan would be to buy some Roman meal (which contains flax seed) and use it like other wheat substitutes In muffins, crackers, cookies and bread. I do not think you will obtain much satisfaction with home made flax seed preparations, and be sides, if you wish to gain weight, as you should, a genarous, varied diet is better for you than dependence upon any one particular "fad" food. Get Dr. Rose's excellent book called "Feeding the Family" from the Public Library, read carefully the opening chapters and especially the chapter on "Food for Thin Women." Follow the suggestions given there, taking a suit able amount of sleep and fresh air ex ercise, and you will surely gain weight unless there is something in your case which requires the advice of a compe tent physician. If there is any such reason for your lack of weight, you should see a doctor at once, but if you are otherwise in fairly good health a careful, well chosen, generous diet, on the lines suggested in Dr. Rose'a book, is almost sure to help you more than any amount of flax seed. You might try a lotion made with two parts rose water and one part grain alcohol, applied after careful washing with good soap in warm water and a bracing dash of cold water, but. as skins vary and enlarged pores are not easily remedied, I cannot guaran tee that it will be completely success ful. Probably, however, you will find a general Improvement In the color and texture of your skin If you follow the suggestion as to diet, fresh air. exercise and sleep given above. wear because of the lightness of the fabric. They are made with pleats or tunic draperies and the wing drapery seems especially in favor. A triangular section of material Is sewed to either side of the skirt In a sort of "wing, the point of the triangle outward. The material faHs of itself into a soft cas cade drapery at either side of the pleat ed skirt and gives a graceful silhouette. A new belt, noted on one skirt of dark blue mohair, is long enough to cross at tne front, the ends passing through oblique slashes in the belt and fastening to the skirt with three buttons. The slashes and the buttonholes in the belt are piped with bias strips of the ma terial. If the new chiffon blouse Is not pro vided with a chiffon lining one should be made at home and slipped inside the blouse. High-class blouses have usually tnis sneer lining or flesh or beige chit fon. but cheaper blouses are often with out a lining of any sort, and their ef fect over even the prettiest brassiere is a bit crude. The intervening layer of chiffon ja essential to a soft and smart effect. BUTTE. Mont.. March 22. Dear Miss Tin gle: Kindly give the recipe for making po tato yeast, or home-made yeast made with t-leisnmans yeast as a "starter." a portion of the "starter" or "seed" to be put away fur the next batch. Thanking you In ad vance. MRS. A. J. Potato Yeast Four medium-size po tatoes, one quart hot water, one-fourth cup sugar, one teaspoon salt, one cake compressed yeast. Wash, paj-e and cook the potatoes In the water. Drain, mash and return to the water, making up the liquid to one quart. , Add the sugar and salt and allow the mixture to cool to lukewarm. Then add the yeast, softened in two or three table spoons lukewarm water. Keep at room temperature (65 to 70 degreed F.) for 24 hours. Then put one pint of the mixture into a scalded Jar. seal tightly and keep in a cold place. Use the rest for Immediate bread-making. Next time you want yeast for bread-making proceed In the same way, but use the put-away can of yeast as "starter" in place of the yeast cake and save out another Jarful of. the new yeast. If you find it- running out that Is. get ting weaker, or giving sour bread, or an unpleasant smell or flavor, throw it away and get new "starter" from a fresh or dried yeast cake or from a neighbor who has good, strong yeast on band. Exercise scrupulous cleanli ness in the making ana scaia your jar nd lid thoroughly each time. lie ure the yeast cake is perfectly fresh. In using liquid yeast count one cup as about equal to one yeaeb vane thntieh the strength Is bound to vary considerably) and reduce the amount of wettina- DroDortlonately In calculating for anv sriven number of loaves mad with rnmnressed or dry yeast, uen eiiv the snonge metnoa gives oesi uccess with home-made yeast, out in off-hand" method can also oe usea. HOtrLTON. Or.. March 22. I am send In you a cake recipe of my own makeup, and have tried it tnorougniy. MRS. T. E. McT. Many thanks for your recipe, I must UKsrest. however, that It cannot be considered a good "war cake" or "con servatlon recipe." when It calls for ard and sugar, lou could easily mod fy It by using a smaller quantity of vegetable shortening (say three or four tablespoons oil or Crlsco in place one-third cup lard) and syrup in Dlace of sugar, reducing the amount o milk to give the same consistency. Most people, also, will not find the combination of chocolate and pineap le flavor very appealing. It has tendency to suggest "hair oil," like many other of the coal tar flavors for example, oanana, -pear ana strawberry") and I think you will nd one teasnoon vanilla with a few grains each of cinnamon and salt will a more popular comoination wua the chocolate. The same applies to the filling. V Cake without white flour (Mrs. X. McT.) One cupful of sugar and one- third cunful of lard, creamed together drl volks of two eggs, beat well, tnen add one cupful of milk, one cupful of flour and two-thirds ot a cupiui of potato flour eifted with three tea- poonsful of Baking powaer ana inree eaping teaspoonfuls ol grouna cnoco- late. Add two teaspoonfuls of pine- DDle flavor, add whites of two eggs, well beaten. Bake Into layers, fake filling. (Mrs. C. McT.) Take one cup of raisins, wash and drain, peel one large apple, put raisins and apple through tooa cnopper, men add one-half cup Karo syrup, boil un til thick, flavor with pineapple and spread between and on top of the cake. PORTLAND, Or., March 22. will you please give a recipe for "sugarless lemon pie" recently mentioned in your column? Thanking you. MRS. E. II. This filling contains only one egg, very little shortening and no sugar or wheat. Use in a pie shell or oatmeal, barley, potato or rice pastry, made with as little shortening as possible. Or use Instead of Jelly (with or without nuts in sweet sandwiches. It can also be utsed for a sweet fruit salad dress ing, conservation lemon filling for nies. tarts, war cakes and sweet sand wiches). One cup water, three level tablespoons cornstarch, -five tablespoons corn syrup, one taoiespoon sugar, ir rated rind of one-half lemon, two tablespoons lemon Juice, one egg yolk. one egg white, one teaspoon i-risco or other shortening (mav be omitted), a few s-rains salt. Bring three-fourths cud water and tne sugar to uouuik noint. Add the corn starch mixed with one-fourth cup cold water. Allow to boil Up and thicken, bet over not water and beat In the egg yolk and other Ingredients. Fold in the sttrr beaten egg white last to make a fluffy texture, turn lntp a pie sneu ana set In a very moderate oven to become firm enough to cut. ' New Marriage Setting Popu lar in New York. Girl Frleads of Pretty Bride Act aa Vsaers at Ceremonies. A T one of the prettiest weddings of the season, a church wedding at ar exclusive suburb near New Tork City, the ushers were all girl friends of the bride, the friends of the groom who was married In his uniform being ab sent at the front or in camp. The church was decorated with palms and lily of the valley and the eight pretty usners wore rrocks of white and green chiffon. The bridesmaids were in pale green and heliotrope, the maid of honor in heliotrope shading to mauve. It was a striking and beautiful color scheme and the ushers accomplished their duties so gracefully and successfully that it is very probable there will be many other wartime weddings with all the bridal party, save best man and groom of feminine persuasion. What Women, Do. Women In Great Britain are now making the heaviest shells being used in the present war. Drunkenness among women In Great Britain has decreased 73 per cent since the war begun. Many French girls are coming to the United States to enroll as students in American colleges. The boxing commission 'of Oregon has ruled against admitting women to boxing shows in that state. The Women's Trade Union Leasrue has placed the minimum age limit for women messengers at 25 years. female stenographers in the employ of the United States Government are now being paid as high as $1200 a year. ir tne untish Parliament agrees to - - I Tons of Excess Flesh I 3 l) I l haveylelded to the gentle persuasion of W a II I L Nemo Self -Reducing Corsets, thus making m if I ' r millions of women more shapely, more K 3 l ,' comfortable, and more healthy. B S II I I 1 11 Be correctly fitted in the Nemo mode K 9 A. f J designed for your type of figure. You'l' E a II I I xA ' ' . soon be smaller and hghter. E 3 II I K. F Bml ht an it", m GENUINE AW 9 J L If sof, ym'U kt iaapfcintU. i I k I Nearly aTT stores can supply you. Many B afe IB I I I wiMtuaccurately without euxaharBC. E ihflntej This Recant Invention is the FIRST f. fCfX I tWlJ REAL IMPROVEMENT W BRASSIERES ' t'tVil SflNtl Instantly adjusted, after hooking by pull on tapes PtV'li (III Jinl at waist. No tugging at hooks. Flat bust; smooth - !V. I . 1 1 1 1 1 i Wu unbroken lines' All figures $1.00 aad St. SO V I linypf W Hrriesk-Fsssiea Isehret., Hew TeHi !i 1 ' allow women the right of franchise over 6,000,000 women will be able to vote. i Plans to raise an army of women be tween 16 and 65 years of age to work on the farms In New York state Is now under way. Tips for the Good Dresser. Beading is out; stitchery is in. Compose frocks are made .of serge, Jersey and satin. . Bands of hemstitching form ladder- work designs. Double-faced ribbons are applied to 'pink de chine" undies. Hand-made laces used on lingerie show outlining achieved in color. Camisole and knickers form the new combination suits of satin. Feather Fancies Popular in Hat Trimmings. Taupe and Gray Shades Seen erally More Favored. FEATHER fancies in taupe and gray shades abound in all the hat trim ming departments, and are obviously, just now, smarter than black ornaments of the same type, even on hats of black straw. Most of these fancies are made of ostrich, spilt, burnt, curled or un curled, as the case may be. They come in aigrette and pompon effects, and may be set up in military fashion at the front of a turban, slanted sideways or posed high at the back, according to personal taste or the shape of the par ticular hat under consideration. The soft ostrich fancy in the soft taupe shade gives a very individual note to a black straw hat of glased milan or 11 sere, and the taupe trimming usually makes such a hat more becoming. A band and bow of the new glaxed ribbon adds the final note of smartness, and with such a hat a taupe veil looks weiL Separate skirts of silk poplin or of mohair strike the style note just now, and incidentally. )re ideal lor Sarins HAND THAT ROCKED CRADLE NOW PUSHES THE BASSINET New Device Not So Much Intended as, Diversion or Comfort to Its Occu pant, as Convenience to Tired Mother or Nurse.' Porcupine quills appear in the com position of new chapeaux. Sailors,- tricornes, tarns, cloches' and high and low turbans are all good style. Double ruchettes .of uncurled ostrich are laid on the brims of georgette sail ors. With knitting bag, purse, muff and pockets, woman ought to be able to carry "her burdens. Knitting bags made from Panama hats are being exhibited at Palm Beach. Neutral shades are first choice for Spring millinery. Grays, browns, beige and tans are safe selections. l". :.ir . V I .... ' .. . ..., I mi jp : ' A fo'-.j&-:-:- A Fish Supply la Short. Fishing Gazette. Germany, which spent so much time in protecting its river and lake fish, has given up that industry since the war began, and has gradually introduced salt water fish from the North sea and the Baltic. The high prices charged by Dutch fishermen for their North sea fish have set Germans thinking that they might benefit by that industry. France has suffered in its cod fisheries, but it is. Britain, North America and the Nor wegian cod fisheries that have suffered most by the war. England has long been the largest consumer of fresh fish from the North sea and elsewhere, but since the outbreak of the war its im port has been much reduced. Canada and Norway, owing to bad weather and want of fishing outfit, have had so small and so dear a supply that meat is some times preferred as being cheaper. But even if fish were plentiful it would be almost impossible to get a fleet equipped as before the war. Labor Is Sweet. Bos.ton Transcript. -Toil know, Sam, it's no disgrace to work for a living." "Yes, I know it, sah. Dat's what I alius tell mah wife." Dandruff Surely Destroys the Hair w XTTHEEL.S in -the nursery seem -to be a veritable obsession of the 20th century. It used to be "the hand that rocked the cradle," now it is the hand that pushes the bassinet And from his luxuriously padded, wheeled bassinet, baby moves on into a wheeled high-chair and then into a wheeled "walking machine,", and later into a wheeled velocipede and then to roller skates. By the time he has reached adolescence the modern child has be come so - accustomed to being borne about swiftly on wheels that nothing will satisfy his teens but an automobile. But 'the wheels that push the bassi net along are not so much intended as a diversion or a comfort to its occupant as a convenience to mother or nurse. They are added to the bassinet just as wheels have been added to phonograph stands and tea wagons since, people took to living in apartments all on one floor and trace pushing is so much easier than lifting. It is very. likely, however, that the modern baby, who is used to being kept on the go, enjoys his sleeping equipage quite as much,. as his! out-door perambulator and would pro test strenuously if robbed of his smoothly-riding bassinet' and tucked at naptime in an old-fashioned rock ing cradle with disconcerting, side-to- side motion. The bassinet pictured is an ultra modern affair, of cream wicker on cream enameled wheels, with up holstery in flesh pink messaline and cream tinted shadow lace. What little girl would not go into ecstasies and cherish a heart full of covetous - longings over this lifelike baby doll which is not a doll at all if you please, but a baby model espe cially designed and manufactured to exploit nursery belongings in shop de partments , which carry, infants' mer chandise. : The lovable "baby model" pink and white and adorably chubby, is exploiting in this case a walking ma chine of enameled wood, with saddle seat hung on springs and an Adjust able toy tray in front. 'In one of these first helps to walking, the baby can Jounce himself up and down without fear of too much weight coming on his as yet untried legs, and when his toes touch the floor he propels himself along-1n his walking machine to bis enormous -glee and satisfaction.- Girlti If you want plenty of thick, beautiful, glossy, eilky hair, do by all means get rid of dandruff, lor it will starve your hair and ruin it if yon don't. It doesn't do much good to try to brush or wash it out. The only sura way to get rid of dandruff Is to dissolve it, then you destroy it entirely. To do this, get about four ounces of ordinary liquid arvon; apply it at night when re tiring; use enough to moisten the scalp and rub it in gently witn the finger tin. By morning most, if not all, of your dandruff will be gone, and three or four more applications will completely dis solve and entirely destroy every single sign and trace of It. You will find, too, that all itching and digging of the scalp will stop, and your hair will look and feel a hundred times better. You can get liquid arvon at any drug store. It is inexpensive and four ounces is all you will need, no matter how much dandruff you have. This simple remedy never falls. Adv. (l" 1 Let Cuticura Care for Baby's Skin It's really wonderful how quickly a hoi bath with Cuticura Soap followed by gentle anointing with Cuticura Oint ment relieves skin irritations which keep baby wakeful and restless, per mits sleep forinfant and rest for mother, and points to healment in most cases when it seems nothing would help. Sample Each Free by Mail. Addreas past card: 'Xuticttra. Dept. 7A, Boston." Sold everywhere. Soap 25c Ointment 25 and 50c Rtttorad In 4 to 8 Days Not ded bat r-ter-d to l onainni eolort .Usvry T. Goldman'-Hlr color liitonr is pnreTOsOrlee-liquid, clean and dintrv water. Yob imply eomb I i It throne, tfe fcsUr ana too ttmj ai-1 ppearo. .mm . .. Sand Forrr inn aoroa Xipteia jmtstatMkr jswrbgUr m Wot ittorg mj bkaok. dui dimb, BsMiun imwgw H nwn, HW, MukaM ft look wltb Jir tottsC V.wUltmd jo a iril -wttto mot ipsMMk Vtthwbk. loapplT it, Wbsm yos wi ta tssjutar Im yen wppi it dlrsot fens J fnsc fUJ tre jva onsnisn. t If ur T. Aolda&a. eelduavn Bid.