THE SUNT) AY OKEGOXIAX, PORTLAND; aiAItCII 10, 1918.
ONE-PIECE SERGE DRESSES ARE DECLARED
TO BE INVALUABLE TO BUSINESS WOMEN
The Garment Are Said to Look Well oa Street and In Office and Hare Trim Suggestion of Man' Well-Kept,
Well-Pressed Suit; in Other Words, They An Really Smart Appearing..
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Y ra-Ks JJi. V.. ; H
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0 NX-PTE CE err r tra fn
loabl to biwlocif womrn. Tb7
look well oa th ctr! and In th
mco. Kept aplc and apaa by coaatant
broahlnga. thajr kav tha trim, bunl
Baaallka (uccwtloa of a mao'a well
kept, wall-presaed ault. Tha tailored
erse drvea pictured baa the new Blen
der silhouette and ezpreaaea the re-
aera and dlenlty that a reliable and
capable buaineea ftlrl em bod lee. Smart,
"too. la tha IKtla dree, with tta awtne-
ln; aklrt panel. Its trimming, of black
braid and l:a dainty collar and chem
iaetta of wblta aalln.
e
No reason why tha pretty boMneo
g-lrl shoukl not look amart and altrao
tlre la tha street, so Ions: her eoa
rume Is trt- and tailored. When this
bratdd and alashed Jacket Is removed
with Ita very natty waistcoat of blege
allk poplin tha elraJsht. severe serge
skirt and tailored blnuaa of tub ma
tertal will offer a combination In per
fect keeping with buitness requlre
tmenta. Tha well-dressed business girl
who makes a food salary can afford
s smart and attractive hat. apotleaa
wblta cloves and dainty footwear.
e e
When warm days coma and tha da
snand la for something that will look
eat and trtra la the street and be cool
and comfortable In the office, the bust
esa woman find that a Hint skirt and
washable blousa are a better choice
than a tub frock that la apt to become
snusay and draccl'd from Ita all-day
wear In a buy office and la crowded
traffic conveyances. Ideal for all-Summer
business wear Is thta lljtht and
cool and well-tailored skirt of gray
a. Ik pop'la. which may ba accompanied
by blousea of striped tub silk or tucked
linen. The gray nulaa sailor matches
the arav skirt.
-i'"
' ' i i
o -
The folloailnc hnd has been
tilted for revision and commeal;
w
KlttlTtit
a IT
Kill Y AJft
.... A B A VI J 1
MQJllli Z
ASI I I KJHI
VI l
KIT! It
3
To begin with, Z baa no legitimate
bid aad should unhesitatingly pass.
While there are some, doubtless, who
would Centura a diamond, they would
aot ba among tha better class of play
era, but among those who are so In
tent upon one pliase of a question that
they Tll to consider the other things
necessary to Its successful conclusion
such as seem to feel It their bounden
duty to announce something, though
they have nothing to announce, and la
o doing are constantly Inviting dis
aster, unfortunately for their partners
as well aa themselves, whlci they could
easily have averted had they used tha
proper discretion.
Z. to be sore, holds seven diamonds,
including the king, but he lacks the
quick outside trick, which la now al
asoat anlversally held to ba one of the
;rat assent I a is) to a Ural-round bid.
aub-.Te fact that be holds a singleton In
I clubs and could trump tha second round
I of the suit Is rather a detriment to the
band than an asset- Such condition In
the weak trump hand la always an as
set, but not so In the strong, unless,
to bo sura, a cross ruff may ba se
cured.or the hand la ao exceptionally
strong that a ruff does not materially
weaken It. Because of the Injury to
the strong trump hand when forced to
trump In the early atagea has been
evolved that most excellent of rules
which tha adversary should not. fall to
observe: Force the strong trump band
whenever the opportunity offers, and
If it refuses the force give It again and
V?ln. unhesitatingly leading' high - or
commanding cards to bring about this
result. The strict observance of this
rule baa probably been tha cauae of
more defeata to the making hand than
any other one policy. -
As-TTwass) Bid Daageewaa.
But to go back to tha bidding: Z
undoubtedly ahould p.--a. A ehould bid
a diamond. Though the hand was
played at duplicate, which la equivalent
to saying It was played from a clean
score, and the controlling aim of each
bidding player la to go game, tha dia
mond bid Is unquestionably better than
ao trumps, because of the menace to
no-trump bid by reaaow of a blank
suit. The hand contains six diamonds
to four honors, a major tenaca ' In
spadea and a well-guarded king In
beaxta, and diamonds. It would seem.
with average help from tha partner.
should Insure game.
T holda a club ault somewhat similar
to hie partner'a diamonds, but he, as
well, lacks the outside trick, so he
passes. B lacks diamonds, his partner's
bid. but ha has a good five-card spade
suit, with three honors, and two out
side aces, one supported by lack, tha
readers to ret In the habit of doing tha
same, and not to Jump at conclustona
and make announcements which noth
ing In their hand or inferences from
Intervening- bids Justify their doing'
Decision Up to B.
However, If T comes In with "two
clubs." it will be left to B to decide
whether to play to defeat the contract,
or to go for game, either' one of which
his haiod seems to insure the ability
to do. I may here state that as the
overthrow of an undoubted two-trick
contract does not Insure a particularly
big score, if game ia at the same time
assured, as in this case would seem
to be so, it la generally better to play
for game. In the event, then, that Y
has called clubs, B's better policy
would be to go to "two spades." In
the event, however, Y having bid, that
B passes in the hope to defeat the con
tract. A. beieng ignorant of his motive,
and supposing he had bid up to the
maximum strength of his hand in the
first case, would undoubtedly, with his
good assistance.'go to "two spades." In
any case the hand Is played at spades,
one or two. according to the policy
adopted by the adversaries, and A-B
make a net score of 333, 63 for tricks.
45 for honors, 100 for a grand slam.
and 125, the accredited value og game
in-hand at duplicate. The play went
thus:
Trick.
1 t 2 ja 6
2 Qa 4 9
t A Qa 2
4 A 7 3a 2
6 64 8 loa 4
6 Aa 3
7.. J 8 A 4V
8 K 10 Jf Q
9 9W 7 2 7v
10 S 8 6 44
11 104 9 K4 74
12 J4 10 J 84
13 Q4 K Sa K4
Denotes winner of trick.
Trick 1. Z, who Is the leader, leads
his singleton club. If Y has bid a club,
this undoubtedly is his correct lead. If
Y has not bid. It Is still the lead which
promises best for his hand, as It may
enable him to save a trump on the
next round of the suit. B, who rapidly
sums up the combined strength of the
two bands and sees the chance of a
little slam, possibly, of every trick.
discards a diamond rather than a heart
from dummy, as greater chances ap
parently lie In the heart suit than In
the diamond. He wins the trick with
Jack or ace In his own hand, according
to the card which Y has played to the
trick. If Y has bid clubs he leada the
six, led by Z, aa his highest, and so
passes It up In the faint hope that B,
at a later stage, may be compelled to
lead the suit up to his king. If he has
not announced the club, he naturally
plays the king. Whichever card he
plays does not affect the result, if B
plays correctly throughout.
Trick 2. B leads a small ciuD ana
trumps In the dummy hand with a
small trump or the queen, according to
hether Z passes the trick or puts up
the nine. Unquestionably he ahould
play the nine.
Trick S. Dummy leads the ace or
diamonds, B discarding the queen of
clubs.
Trick 4. Dummy's next lead Is the
ace of trumps, wnicn ne iouows at
trick 6 with a small one, B getting in
the lead with the ten.
Trick 6. Having exhausted the
trumps. B now leada the ciud ace, ana
at trick 7 the heart ace, which he fol
lows at trick 8 with the heart Jack for
the finesse. If Z does not cover, dummy
plays a small heart, and the Jack wins.
In such case B would follow with a
small heart, to which Z would be
forced to play the queen, ar.d dummy
would win with king. Then, after mak
lng the heart nine, dummy would lead
his last heart, which B would win with
the six. Z'a better play, however, to
the lead of Jack Is queen, in the hope
that he -may thereby eventually make
good the ten, or some other card of tne
suit, in his partner's hand. If he ao
plays, dummy wins this round with
king, and the ten, falling from Y, fol
lows at trick 9 with the nine, and at
trick 10 with the small heart, B win-
nine with the six.
Tricks 11. 12 and 13 B ' makes his
three remaining trumps.
Let It be noted that B does not make
the finesse in hearts until the' second
round of the suit. This Is In accordance
with the nrinclDle never to take a
finesse on the first round of a suit that
can be deferred until the second round.
and never to take a finesse on the sea
ond round of a suit which can be de
ferred until the third round. Try this
and see how well it results.
Had Z at trick 1 led a fourth best
diamond rather than his singleton club
k would still have had it within nis
nnwer to make a grand slam. To thl
trick his correct play would have been
not dummy s ace, but tne ten, wnicn
would force the king, or hold tne iricK.
If Jt forced the,king It would estaonsn
the suit in dummy's hand, while he
till had the king of hearts as a re-
mrv card, ana at tne same unit a
would be enabled to trump the trick.
Such play is known in auction parlance
as "ruffing out" a ault, and Is ex
tremely pretty play. The lead on a
fourth best card from a single honor
suit except at no trumps nas oeeo
found so often ' to result In nothing
that it Is more and more falling Into
disuse. So, for every reason, a bui
lead Is the singleton clun.
and reduce her ill
! graceful and II I B
MIS
uncomfortable, ill a
)OFIT! til 3
an absolute E jl B
figure, pro- I
)lid comfort. B
MODELS J H
and $6.00 1 U
IB
lines. I R r : B
1
I B.vjss: . ' . ft
I I 3ri This
FM r REAL
II "Hy i Model
lUH fl I -
Pity the Stout Woman
who hasn't learned to resh
flesh, and thereby gain the i
youthful figure that ONLY a
ing Corset gives her.
Excess fat is ungainly,
and unheal tifuL GET Rl
A Nemo Self-Redndng Corset is
essential jo symmetrize the too-full
serve the health, and bring s
"TWENTY DIFFERENT
$3.50, $4.25, $5.00
AVOID OSTTATlOffSbuat
Nemo Self-Reduo
Nenrly-Patmbsd Invention is the FIRST
IMPROVEMENT IN BRASSIERES
adjusted, afler hooking; ' by pull on tapes al
nooks, flat Dust; smooth "unbroken
i for all figures, in all sizes $1.00 to $3.50
lUstoiaii FasHIni Institnta ... Rm York
Blue Mohair Frock One of
Season's Smartest.
Gsrarst Has A proa Oversklrt. Wltm
White Satla Surplice Collar.
GREATEST DEGREE ' OF CARE IS REQUIRED IN
FURNISHING GUESTS' ROOM OF MODERN HOME
Up-to-the-Minute Hostess Thinks Out Beforehand AH the Minute Commodities So Essential to Everyday Use,
Such as Toilet Articles, Stationery, Fresh Pens, Ink, Current Magazines and Books.
A
Cbntfpv aJast. JtnrttB mspac.ticm ami leuurejy
0"
E of the smartest frocks or the
Spring season Is a model origin
ated by Polret; of navy blue mohair
with an apron oversklrt edged all
around with a deep, side-pleated frllL
This apron falls below the knees at
the front, rounding up to a two-inch
depth at the center back and the deep.
pleated frill fans gracefully over a
straight, narrow skirt. The rather
close-fitting bodice is in surplice style,
coming just over the skirt belt.
A surplice collar of white satin de
fines the neck opening, crossing with
the bodice front far to the left side.
The close coat sleeves have buttons up
the outer side to tha elbow.
other by queen. Jack. "He, therefore,
calls a spade. This he should do. even
thouah his partner, had called no
trumps Instead of diamonds. In con
formance to the ruling always to over- U-lva an unusual effect to Knrinr
call your partner's no-trump bid If you Lrs. Angora Is a very fashionable trim
A new Angora wool In putty color Is
Interwoven with metallic threads which
have five spades or hearts. Including
an honor, though, you may hold good
assistance for the no trump. This is
oa the theory that as good. If not bet
ter, results are usually attained at a
good major suit than at no trumps, and
especially so when, as In B's case, he
has a blank suit. Some players In Y's
position wouia now matce a Did or two
clubs' (second-round bids being usually
on length rather than high-card
strength), but If one carefully considers
his hand It will be seen that, while, to
be sure. It contains an alluring array
of clubs, so far aa number Is con
cerned. It practically assures only sis
trlcka. Seven tricks must inevitably
be lost two at hearts, one at diamonds,
two at spades and two, possibly more.
at trumps. . Y's partner. Z. has twice
had the chance to make an announce
ment, and has not done so. Clearly,
hia hand does not give the promise of
much help. Where, then, will Y find
the materia necessary to make good
his contract, let alone game? And. be
sides, even though he makes good, he
will make a partial score only, and
statistics go to prove that It ia only in
extremely rare cases that a previous
score Is of ar.y assistance In winning
a game. I am considering this hand tn I
all its various phases, as I want my I
mlng and the best effects are achieved
with matching Angora. Tha one-tone
sweater Is more exclusive than the
model showing a bright contrast In
colors.
e e
Frocks of black chiffon and satin are
touched discreetly with white, or with
steel bead embroidery to relieve any
suggestion of somberness. These frocks
are in sympathy with tha movement
against mourning.
Most women choose to wear costumes
of subdued color in order that those
brave, bereaved women -who sacrifice
personal preferences and renounce
mourning garb because of Its discour
aging influence at this time, wearing
what all other women are wearing, may
not ba made uncomfortable and un
happy In offensively bright raiment.
Dark blue, dark brown, black light
ened with white, soft gray and other
subdued, neutral tones are therefore in
favor as wartime colors in cosutme.
A pretty Spring suit for the young
girl is of navy serge tn Eton style, with
vest and turned-down collar of blue
and white dotted foulard silk. A little
cravat Dow or tne loulard holds the
Eton Jacket together below the collar
and above the narrow vest.
CERTAIN degree of thoughtful
ness 1s required in furnishing
the guest's room, exceeding in
nice precision the care bestowed on any
other room in the home. The hostess
is the most successful who thinks out
beforehand all of the minute commod
ities bo essential to every day use
the toilet accessories, stationery, fresh
pens. Ink, current magazines, a few
good books, and a lighting arrange
ment pleasantly placed. A guest's
room should be so comfortably equipped
that the occupant may withdraw to it
without having to issue forth to plead
for some urgently necessary trifle.
It will probably be readily conceded
that the guest who is in evidence all
the time during the visit is an unmiti
gated nuisance. Let us by all means
make the seclusion of the alloted room
tempting enough to hold him or her
few hours daily while we go about the
business of our domestic routine.
Let us have nooks and corners that
Invite Inspection and leisurely use. A
narrow reading table, astride a downy
chaise longue, with a trough of books
beside It, a window and a lamp close
by, makes one of the most alluring
furniture groups ever devised by a
clever chatelaine to enthrall the
stranger within her walls long enough
to allow of her devoting some time to
her own affairs.
The Illustration here shows a cun
ningly selected lot of furniture de
signed for a small "spare room." There
are but two more pieces of furniture
in the room, unseen in the sketch. One
is a brown mahogany bed with low
head and footboard, a feather bolster
at either end. and a printed linen
cover. The other piece is well, shall
we call It a bench or stool? It is no
higher nor wider than a little footstool
but is almost as long as the bed. On
It is the most delightful pad, covered
with taffeta.
This piece Is really nothing more
than a revival of the old-fashioned
bedstep. You sit in it to take off your
shoes, you kneel on It to say your
prayers, and the soft silk pad Is ca
ressingly luxurious to the sole of the
bare foot when you step out on it in
the morning.
Another effective touch in this little
room is In the lamp shade, which Is
not, as too many lamp shades are,
made stiffly on a set form, with just
about as much supple. charm as the
plaited lining of a casket The shaped
under part, stretched well to the wire,
frame. Is of rose silk and the over part
is a tasseled square of Persian chiffon.
The color scheming of the room is
rose. French gray, and mauva. The
walls are gray, and the curtains gray
silk rep with tiny rose edging. The
linen on day bed cover and chaise
longue has a gray ground and rose
and mauve pattern. The taffeta foot
bench pad and round sofa pillow and
the tassels are mauve and rose shot
silk. Extra chair is In mauve and gray
striped velvet while the carpet Is rose
no, not pink, but that Intense tint
between deep coral and cerise, that
marvelous' shade known as Du Barry
rose. The furniture frames and pic
ture frames are brown mahogany
throughout The woodwork is painted
French gray, a tone deeper than the
wall-
Trie dresser has been dispensed with,
a mirror being hung above the desk
and a "vanity drawer" being reserved
in the desk for powder and patches, for
creams and cosmetics.
Among the important trivial things
often overlooked, to the great discom
fort of visitors, are these: A needle and
black and white thread, a pin cushion
and scissors, a calendar, a dictionary,
ink, pens and stationery (a few stamps,
even, would not be amiss), and fresh
blotters. These are minute but essen
tiaL If the home Is in a suburb, a
time table should be placed conven
lently. Would any one, I wonder, in
fitting up a guest's room, forget to
grace it with a clock? That would be
a most reprehensible oversight!
Day beds to sleep in have certainly
come to stay. They make it so possi
ble to have a bedroom that is not too
intimately private looking to use as a
sitting room as welL
A girl's bedroom in which the day
bed is the principal feature was
schemed out with an. antique lacquered
cabinet as the starting point The cab
inet the girl had found in an out of
the way shop and, pouncing on it, had
actually carried it home in her arms,
accounting for. her bulky burden to
friends en route by reminding that
these are "cash and carry days. The
truth was, she was afraid to let it out
of her sight so lovely she thought it;
and she. gloated over the inlay, the
wondrous escutecheons, quaint lock
and. the cluster of tiny drawers, con
cealed by an intricate inlaid door that
flew back at the touch of a secret
spring.
What a shrine for love letters and
jewels! What a casket of dreams! So
mysterious a nucleus made its espe
cial appeal- It filled the room with its
presence and tyrannically called for the
immediate banishment of commonplace
pieces. And so the little room was
furbished anew to suit it '
The simple straight line furniture
was given a coat of black paint edged
with a line of gold color not gilt busj
light yellow ochre. The floor covering)
was a chenille rug in bronze taupe.
The walls were paneled and painted a
light putty. The day cover selected
for the bed, found at a basement sale,
was sea weed green India linen sten.
ciled all over with a raised stencil la
dull gold, an exquisite thing, but rath-
er narrow, so that it was necessary to
widen it with a band of "changeable"
russet and seaweed green velvet,
picked up at the same bargain table.
It would have been nice to have in
side draperies to match, but the cov
ers did not come In pairs and' could
not be matched, so one in much tha
same pattern and style of work, dona
on an intense turquoise blue linen,
was chosen for the window. Aa thla
cover was finished with a narrow bor
der. It was split down the center to
make a pair of curtains, with the bor
dered edges turned toward each other.
These were supplemented with a pair
of plain cream marquisette, next tha
glass;
The design In the Persian things is
distinctly elaborate, so motifs wera
subordinated in the rest of the fur
nishings. On the dresser, under a
glass cover, was placed a fitted piece
of sand-colored brocade. Russet brown
cushions were made for the chairs,
and the under parts of the cushions
(just a glimpse showing) were a fla
mingo pink rep. The few decorative
toilet articles allowed to show wera
of Canton china. The little cabinet
held a conspicuous place, gayly assert
ing itself as the inspiration of a girl's
room exceptionally full of character.
The fact that the room is to be va.
caled and used as a guest's room on
the rare occasions when a visitor stays
over night is a vigorous Incentive for
the young occupant to keep it in apple
pie order all of the time.
History of the White Tower.
London Telegraph.
A royal palace, consisting of what la
now known aa the "white tower," ap
pears to have been the beginning of tha
Tower of London. . It was commenced
by William the Conqueror and finished
by William's son, William Rufus, who,
in 1098, surrounded it with walls and a
broad ditch. Several succeeding kings
made additions to it. and King Edward
III erected the church. In 1628 the old
white tower was rebuilt, and in tha
reign of Charles II a great number of
additions were made to it The new
buildings in the tower were completed
in 1850.