.TTTE StJXDAT OREGOXIAN, rORTXAXI?, . MARCII 10; -1918.
SEVERE AND UGLY WHITE SHIRTWAIST OF
FORMER BUSINESS WOMAN NOW IS VANISHED
Today Charming Blouses Are Worn. Th-y Are of Tailored Type, bat Softly Feminine In Fabric and General
Lines Neckwear Also Demands Attention These Days.
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powder, adding as much more of the
mixture as w;il make a dough just stiff
enough to rolL Use plenty of flour to
prevent 'sticking and work rapidly,
having everything; ready before sifting
the flour with the baking; powder into
the potatoes. For an "extra special"
crust beat on egg- yolk Into the mix
ture. Brush with milk before baking-.
These are typical "conservation crusts"
and may, I hope, suggest others.
Oats and barley pie crust A mixture
of equal parts oat f lour) and barley
with 1 teaspoon salt. 2 teaspoons bak
ing powder, 2 tablespoons corn oil or
melted shortening to each cup with
.With the addition of three table
spoons sugar for every cup for part
sugar and 'part molasses) you will find,
I think, that a useful sweet cracker can
be made using either equal parts oat
flour and barley flour or barley flour
and rice flour. This will not' be ex
actly like the crackers you mention.
out I tnink you will find them useful.
Following Is a very useful plain oat
meal cracker recipe. These unsweet
ened crackers may ta"ke the place of
Dreaa or toast or ordinary crackers at
wheatless meals. They keep well an
can be made in advance, kept In a tin
and crisped In the oven or toasted
(like a slice of bread) to serve under
creamed dishes, eggs or other "on
toast" preparations. They also make
a good "carry lunch" combined with
Die or cneese, or some sandwich filling
and they are very good eaten plain.
with a glass of milk and some fruit,
for a simple lunch, supper or breakfast.
If you like you can vary them by
adding a little sweetening. If syrup is
used for sweetening, the liquid will, of
course, do reaucea. too.
A little dry grated cheese mixed in
with the dry ingredients make anothe
variation especially good for lunch
es or picnics or to serve with.
vegetable salads or soups. Chees
oatmeal crackers with either veg
etable salad or soup and a lit
tie fruit provide a well -balanced
meal, easily prepared and very "Hoov
erish." especially if the minimum
amount of oil or 'shortening; Is used in
the salad dressing.
Oats and barley crackers To every
cup equally mixed oat and barley flou
allow 1 level teaspoon salt. 2 level tea
spoons baking powder and 1 tablespoon
melted shortening cottonseed oil or
corn oil. Mix the dry ingredients and
grease Inverted baking tins or cooky
sheets. Have the oven ready. Then
add the oil and mix to a rather stiff
paste with milk. Roll out as quickly
as possible,- about 44 inch thick, using
plenty of oat or barley flour on the
board' to avoid sticking. Cut Into
squares or rectangles four or four and
one-half by three inches, if to be used
in place of toast: or in finger strips or
smaller squares If to be used for soup.
Bake in a rather quick oven, watch
Ina carefully to avoid overbrownlng,
especially round the edges. Have them
rather pale (but cooked through) if
they are intended for reheating. Set
on edge to cool, so that they do not
steam and lose crispness. Store In a
tin box. If intended to be eaten with'
out reheating they may be very cau
tlously browned slightly under the
oven broiler, if gas is used.
For sweet crackers use two or three
tablespoons sugar or syrup (or mixed
ugar and syrup) with the dry lngre
ients and oil as above and slightly re-
uce the quantity of milk. The amount
of salt may be reduced if liked, but
most people seem to enjoy the full salty
flavor with the oatmeaL Graham crack
ers might be similarly made.
If oat flour is not available grind
rolled oats in the food chopper or coffee
grinder.
Richer sweet cookies may be made
as above, using equal parts oat flour
and rice flour or cornstarch, with the
addition of one well-beaten egg .to
three cups of the mixture and other
ingredients in the above proportions.
For variety a little chocolate or spice.
r grated orange or lemon rind or ral-
ins or nuts, may be added to make a
company cooky" for wheatless days.
nd the mixture may be "dropped" or
rolled thin and cut in smaller fancy
hapes.
I will give you other cracker recipes
later. Home-made wheatless crackers
re not difficult to make and offer a
pleasant change, on wheatless days.
rom plain corn bread or Drown mur-
and they have 'the advantage or
BROWNS ARE TO BE VERY MUCH
WORN DURING COMING SEASON
Women -Who Think of Appearance, and. Wish to Be in Style" Are Warned
to Prepare Their Complexions so That They Can Wear Brown.
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f was to creep In between warm blankets
as early as possible. Now these Win
ter ravages must be repaired and as
speedily as possible for the Spring
browns are almost upon us. The heroic
treatment will include soap and water,
soft towels,, cold cream, and perhaps a
harmless but efficient skin bleach. The
bleach may be applied during one's
afternoon siesta; there will be no time
for it at nights, when steaming, scrub
bing and massaging will be having
tl-eir time. In the morning, nothing
but cold water; dashed on briskly to
tone up the relaxed skin and' make It
firm and fine.
Potato mashed with warm water and
plastered over the face like a thick
paste Is an excellent bleach. Strips of
cucumber, bound with soft cloths make x
some skins beautifully clear. Sweet
milk is one of the best skin-whiteners;
but of course, just now, milk is a pretty
expensive complexion lotions.
On two nights give the face a
thorough steaming, with a big towel
over the head and over the bowl or
Just-boiled water, hold the face about
ten Inches above the water, manipu
latlng the 6kin lightly with the finger
tips. When a profuse perspiration re
wards your efforts, dry the face gently
with a soft towel and apply cold cream
generously, not rubbing it in or at
tempting massage at this time. Half
an hour later, wipe off the cream,
bathe the face with cool, not cold.
water, and go to bed. On the other
nights of the week give the face a
scrubbing with warm water and pure
soap. Rinse well and then massage
with pinching and stroking motions,
using a good cold cream not a van
ishing cream. The latter Is for use
when the face is to be exposed to a
strong wind. Intense cold or blistering'
Summer suns. Vanishing cream pro
tects but does not feed the skin.
During the complection treatment,
eat very little rich food, no sweets and
plenty of green salads. Take a walk
in the fresh air every day and have a
warm bath followed by a cold shower
and a brisk rub once in every 24 hours.
If you neglect the bath you may find
the stored-up impurities of the system
coming out through the pores of the
carefully tended face.
KB you getting your complexion In
shape to stand the Spring browns?
L If not. It Is high time to be about
it, for browns are to ; be very fash
ionable this season, browns from. the
creamy ecru tint of old ivory to the
darkest shade of tete du negre and
browns are particularly hard to wear.
Unless the complexion Is dear and
fresh, they seem to sap all the life out
of it and make its possessor look faded
nd wan.
Beice is an especially smart shade.
nd an especially trying one to any
but flawless skins. Cinnamon brown
is another color favored by fashion
milk r wiiar. to mV a. stiff dnnch k.i.'. nr.r.. h i iitnnra not ncfpa. i but unkind to Winter-jaded complex-
makes a useful crust. sarlly Just before the meal. ions. But when one glimpses the
fetching new foulards in combinations
of cinnamon and cream, the lustrous
silk poplins and mohairs in .golden
brown tones, the rich bronze-tinted
velvets for sport coats, the ecru laces
and nets for afternoon wear on Sum
mer days, the imperative necessity for
bringing the complexion up to tone
in order to wear these alluring shades
will present Itself to every woman.
This has been a hard Winter on
complexions. What with the intense
cold out-of-doors and the chilliness of
bathrooms that used to be balmy when
there was plenty of coal, the poor com
plexion has had a bad time of it.
Nobody, felt like fussing with hot water
scrubs, facial . steamings and nightly
massage, when the one desirable thing
PRACTICAL AND FANCY NEEDLE-WORK By Clotilde
Use of Cheese Will Help in
Conserving: Food Supply.
Resourceful Housekeeper Aiwa
Keep Some of This on Hand.
ITlHB severe and urly "white shirt
I waist." which used to be consld
r4 part of the proper business
uniform. Is a thine of the past. Now
fclousee. tailored la type but softly fern
blouses, tailored in tjrpe but softy fem
lain la fabric and general lines. This
pretty blous ts of flesh pink, crepe de
chine, simply cut. with enough full-
aesa for a-raca and smartly tailored In
spite of Its dainty color and soft ma
terial. The cufts and the new collar
estead!nr Into a knotted cravat are of
white satin. The blous will look well
with any tailored skirt of dark serge
r mohair for office wear.
e
With a frock or two of simple de
ism. the business woman manages to
look well every day In the week pro
vided etie has plenty of fresh, attrac
tive neck-flxtnca, Vh Is particular
about those accessories: they roust be
becoming and of a quality that will
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endura through frequent laundering.
With a perfectly plain dark-brown silk
frock the white organdy collar and
vestee Illustrated give Just that touch
of fresh daintiness that is so lndlspen
sable to the woman who like to look
her best even when at work.
e e
What man's gay and colorful neck'
tie ts to the monotonous neatness of
his tailored suit, built like all other
suits and worn day after day, the bust
ness airl's attractive hat Is to her cor
rectly somber and Inconspicuous busi
ness raiment. And you will not that
most business girls, these days, wear
very charmtns; hats and appear In new
ones often. This la because a busln
hat has pretty hard wear and because
the shops are always full of attractive
"tailored bata at prices especially de
Signed to pleas wage-earners. Her
Is such a bat. a novelty of straw, ana
Springlike with wheat and posy trim
ming.
ANSWERS TO CORRESPONDENTS
Wa:4urt. Or Tee. 1 Dtu Mite Tlas'.e
X re4 a coup.e of wfes mo taat a am'
taiKM kIm tu pw iwi m4 vlih bM o pi snouiu D aoseni iron
waiar aad 4.mutmH te ihot ib prorra your table, although ordinary pi crust
I and eaten with a small amount of but
ter) ther la no reason why certain
wltb sreec iikcis. Ca roe sle me tb
Trt? Aithous at prliC pie crot l
e!rbte by its abac front eur lab.e. 1
asol4 appreciate It for futuro e.
A., nr litiio ara ttiMns.lr fond of
graham cracfewrm. w h. h are aold la cartona
Tfc.y rvtiab thi aa much aa cau or caady.
bat I ftad I h-m a tlltla apnate for libera!
urn a. Md would llaa to m a k tbra at bome.
or at loaat make eomotbine aDproalmatlns
lk.ni aa aooriv aa pnoalb.e la tbo bom
bttrho. Caa ye ko;p ma any? Aa oat
booi crockor to pet bp La the sum way.
which to a.o sood.
1 am a rnmporattvolp w reader of year
eoiarrtao. bot am p.oaoad to bo able to receive
bbe benefit beetooed bp tnera. M. K.
The pastry recipe you mention Is not
very good conservation recipe, there
fore I would rather give It to you later.
when the food shortage Is past.
A careful research recently at on of
the KAStern colleges to determine
whether hot water or cold water pantry
Is the moat advantageous decided def
initely In favor of the cold water
method. The hot water method, how
ever, is always a good talking point"
for a demonstrator, becaua It excites
the curiosity of housewives brought up'
In the tradition of the cold water
method. Actually, however, there Is no
special advantage If the same degree
of care and the same kind of materials
la the same proportion are used. Gen
erally the hot water recipes call for
rather more shortening than are used
for the plainer kinds of cold water
pastry. It gives a slightly "different
texture, but not necessarily a "better"
texture, and Is easily spoiled until the
"knack" Is learned. Tor ordinary fam
ily use I think you will find the ordi
nary quick "short" pastry easier to
make and more satisfactory In th long
run.
If you car to us some of th plain
"wheatless" pi crusts with a minimum
f shortening (no more shortening
thmm would bo ueed if ordinary bis
cuit war aaad of th same materials
Is very unpatriotic W are asked to
use all to fruit we can to replace the
staples, so that a wheatless. sugarless
(or almost sugarless) pie. mad wlthij
only 1 tablespoons shortening, but
with plenty of Juicy fruit filling, would
be a perfectly good conservation dish.
Potatoes, rice flour, cornstarch and
barley In various combinations can be
used to make such a pis crust, without
any wheat at all. Potato crust la ex
cellent for meat plea A well-greased
pie plat, dredged with white corn
meal, will supply a "hold together
crust" for pumpkin, quash, sweet po
tato and carrot plea In which eggs ar
used, or In apple-custard or banana
cuatard plea Boiled rice, too, ' can
bo used as a "crust" for the two latter
plea The following rice 'and barley
flour pastry has proved quite popular
Barley and rlc pastry (plunx) Ua
equal parts barley and rlc flour with
1 teaspoon salt. 1 teaspoons baking
powder and X tablespoons shortening
(preferably corn oil) to each cup of
the mixture. Have everything ready
before you wet th mixture. Mix to
a stiff dough and roll quickly on a
board very thickly sprinkled with rice
flower. The paste breaks easily, and
requires a little skill and knack (easily
acquired, however) 'In moving, from
th board to th pi tin. ' Brush with
milk. Bake la a hot oven.
This can be used for .ordinary' fruit
pies (such a apple-, peach raisin or
berries) or for pie shells for lemon.
custard, chocolate or creun pi, for
th latter purpose bake on th outside
of the Inverted pi plate.,
rotato pie crustr to l cup smootn
mashed potatoes beat In t tablespoons
melted shortening, teaspoon salt and a
very little hot milk, enough to make
It very light and creamy. Then stir
In H cup rlc flour, or oat flour, or a
mixture of equal parts barley and rlc.
barley and oats, or barley and corn
starch sifted wlLh ' 1 teaspoon baking
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CHEESE is a standby of the good
food conservationist these days.
Plenty of cheese and plenty of fish,
served in the home will help Uncle Sam
to keep the soldier boys in nourishing
beef. The resourceful housekeeper al
ways has a pound or so of fresh chees
on hand; nothing is so useful when un
expected company drops in for lunch,
or when a light repast must be pre
pared at night, after an informal
bridge game. Given a pound of cheese
and various seasonings usually kept in
the well-equipped kitchen, a rarebit
may be tossed together in a jiffy. Or
grated cheese, milk, breadcrumbs and
beaten egg may be baked in a caserole
as a delicious and quite hearty lunch
dish. Creamed eggs with cheese is a
much more substantial and appealing
dish also than the egss without the
cheese. Hard boil the eggs and cut in
quarters. Make a thick cream sauce
and add the egg and a cup of grated
cheese. Put in a baking dish and set
in the oveu for 15 minutes and serve
piping hot.
Cheese scones were served at an
afternoon bridge party the other after
noon and proved such a success that
a second helping all around was ac
cepted with delight. To make cheese
scones, trim rather thick slices of bread
and butter on both sides. Grate cheese
thickly over each slice, season with.
salt, paprika and a dash of mustard.
Lay a strip of bacon on top and toast
under the broiler of the gas range.
Have heated plates ready and serve the
crisp, hot scones as they come from the
oven.
Equal parts of ammonia and turpen
tine will take paint out of clothing, no
matter how dry and hard it may be.
Saturate the spot two or three times,
and afterward wash out in soapsuds.
YOUR FRECKLES
Need Attention in 51 arch or Face May
Stay Covered.
Now is the time to take special cara
of the complexion if you wiah it to
look well the rest of the year. The
March winds have a strong tendency
to bring out freckles that may stay all
Summer unless removed. Now is the
time to use othine double strength.
This prescription for the removal of
freckles was written by a prominent
physician and is usually so successful
that it is sold 'by druggists under
guarantee to refund the money if it
fails. Get an ounce of othine double
strength, and even a few applications
should show a wonderful improve
ment, some of the smaller freckles
even vanishing entirely.
Fr th Refugee Children. .
For three years, mora or less. In
certain 'sections of Franc and Belgium
th people have' been living In home
underground, more like animals than
umana. Because of th impression
able quality of youth the children have
suffered th most from . the change.
Those that in .these later days o the
war are coming back to France are
timid, shy, sensitive aa young rabbits
to anything outside their own experi
ence. They ar returning in need of
almost everything. Th " Red ' Cross is
trying to care for them as best it can.
One of the most pertinent needs Is for
clothing for children from 8 to 13 years
of age.
The type of clothes worn by the
French and Belgian children and' our
children on this side of the Atlantic
differs. And, odd as It may seem, the
Red Cross finds that those little war
children are afraid of the strangeness
of our styles. So three American chil
dren Virginia .Farrar, Mary Louise
Campbell and Celestin Dostal posed
for the photograph above, doing their
bit for France, to show you what their
cousins overseas want. , ,
These' clothes do not' necessarily have
to be made from new materials. Old
clothes will cut down surprisingly
when there Is a will and strong love
driving the sciseors. The .patterns for
these garments are simple, and nearly
every, attic or clothes chest will fur
nish material enough for at least one
of them.
Directions for the garments: The
cape and the pinafore illustrated in
the picture are suitable for either a
boy or a girl. Lap right front over
left for the girl and left over right for
the boy. The pinafore is made simply
with box plaits and a narrow belt and
fastens In the. back.. .The collar is a
stiff turnover ' collar of th ' Buster ,
Brown type.' The suit for the boy is
made in two pieces, the blouse and
trousers separate. The belt Is sewed
to the lower edge of the blouse, whlcn
Is gathered Into it. There is one out
side breast pocket on the left side of
the blouse.
These garments are made according
to the official Red Cross patterns, and
anyone desiring to help in this great
work of love may get the patterns by
sending to the Red Cross, 58 East
Washington street, Chicago. The pat
terns are 10 cents each, and they num
ber as follows: No: 99, the pinafore;
No. 105,.. th .boy's suit: .No. . 106,. the
cape.
U 1
A
cuncraA
Quidclu Heals
Eczemas.Raslies.
Itchings and
Irritations
In the treatment of all skin
troubles bathe freely with Cuti
cura Soap and hot water, dry
gently, and apply Cuticura Oint
ment to the affected parts.
These fragrant super - creamy
emollients tend to prevent little
skin troubles becoming serious
if used for every-day toilet pur
poses. For sample of each free by mail ad
dress post-card: "Cuticura. Dept.
22G, Boston." Sold everywhere.
Soap 25c Ointment 25 aod 50c
To Quickly Remove
Ugly Hairs From Face
(Beauty Notes.)
Beauty-destroying hairs are soon
banished from the skin with the aid,
of a delatone, paste, made by mixing
some water with a little plain pow
dered delatone. This is spread upon
the hairy surface for two or threa
minutes, then rubbed off and the skin
washed to remove the remaining dela
tone. This simple tneatment banishes
every trace of hair and leaves the skin
without a blemish.. Caution should ba
used to be certain that it la delatone
you buy. Adv.