THE SUX1XYY OKEGONIAX, PORTLAND, FEBRUARY 3, 1918.
and by reason of their honor score.
DAMASK DRAPERIES WITH UPHOLSTERED
FURNITURE TO MATCH TO BE IN FAVOR
Beautiful Sicilian Fabric in Both Silk and Satin Will Be Popular Among the Season's Fashions Blocked Linens
Will Be Close Second for Informal Rooms.
FASHION DECREES THAT ROUGH-AND-READY OLD
CLOTHES MAY NOT BE WORN IN-WINTER SPORTS
On Must B Smart and Snappy in Dress, No Matter What the Came Blue Wool Jersey,'. Mannishly" Tailored,
With Silk Sport Shirt, Quite hi Style. '
would still have been 60 to the good. I
Indignantly protested that be had done
right and that the fault was Z'a in not
correctly handling the situation. Thus
It went an. aa 1 regret to say la not
Infrequently the case under tike con
ditions, until one of the adversaries
(decidedly the strongest player of the
four and one whose opinion at all
times commanded respect), being ap
pealed to, made the unqualified asser
tion that the fault was entirely Z'a and
that It was a game hand. The hand
was then replayed under her direction
and went as follows:
v if""''::-
Trick. A Y B Z
1 Q 3 2 A
2 7 2 4 A
K 3 Q 10
4 io 4a S 9a
5 Ka 8 i
6 6 J 2
7 a 7a J
S 7 4 4a
ja 6 8
10 9 Ja - Kt' A
11 6 7 it A
12 Qa 2a 8a a
1 Q 10 K 10a
frifiS I I JSfi'fcMM! j p-'r mum-umm-i um:iimii;:wiu MSjf ; t
'Denotes winner of trick.
A K fesd ; J& !
If fc-' r ': (( ' )T 5feif 4
l I ' - ; f ' i a
W ' ;;v-: V' ;
, Ol GH and ready old clothes ar
sot a iinoojrm for correctness la
i'lntr playtime clothes any mora.
One mrjjt b smart and snappy In dra
a saatter bow rouirh and rrady tba
port. This yoanc woman Is ery well
tnrned oat frr midwinter plsy. tier
loow, bat wll-eut suit of blue wool
irT Is maatsnly tailored. She wesra
atlk soort shirt and natty, boylth tie
and a apart bat of flt that U sturdy,
bat alo fetrblnc. Her heavy glorea
ad stoat boots, with knitted woolea '
torkinga, match the rest of the cos
tume to perfection.
a
Dock shooting seasoa la about ever,
bat this la Just sock a costume aa tba
aVvotoa af the sport a!fctrd this Win
ter. The rordaroy leather trimmed coat,
with Its loose, easy ftnee. surststs tba
STpert and seavoned hunter, not mere
ly a pretty girl pUylne at the sport.
Tha short skirt and stoat boots were
evidently made for rouirh weather uaa
and tba velour bat may be bnt down,
to protect tba eyes from snow squalls
r glare of sunlight on snow.
see
Woe be to the adventurer oa skis If
SBosctcs of arena and shcaders sre ham
pered by retr'cMn carments. for the
art of skiing Is an art of batancinr. and
the arm are an Important factor
thereof. So she wrio adventures forth
on trtrky ekl pref'rs to wear a knit
ted eoau which Is the most unrrtrtrt
Ina garment known. Very Itkrly.'she
wears two knitted coat, one over the
other, and a rosy muffler of angori.
which, besides adding warmth to her
roetume. gtvee a picturesque loach too.
Yler strong but suppl boots have the
lowest heels rothte and worsted
gloves keep her fund warm.
,. , - '..5. -..s
f ' '
1 i
II
- uaevi
irv
to "two no trnmpa.' which held
bid. Tba band went aa follows:
the
Trick. A Y C Z
1 Q K 7a si
t 7 4 A
I K t 1 !
4 10a aa Ba A'
( 6V 54 aa J
t Qa :a , 7a 4a
7 ja 4a aa 2
g 7a 7 4 a
k Sa-
10 I" J AO
11 a Ja a Aa
U a Ka 10a
13 to K' so
lxnoea winner of trick.
ZY made three by cards, or 30, which
with luo for honors, and 125, the ac
credited Talue of game, totaled 255.
Serlaos Error Committed.
In tha hand as originally played. Z,
at tha very first trick committed his
most serious error, that of giving up
dummy's only re-entry. The three dia
monds in his band are higher than any
of dummy's, and be thus gives up all
chance of bringing In the diamonds.
The explanation he offered, that be
wanted to deceive the adversaries as
to the location of the ace, was utterly
Illogical, and even if it had been an im
portant consideration, which It was not,
would have failed of its 'purpose. It
could not deceive A since he knew that
If his partner had the ace, he would
have played It on dummy's king, and it
could not deceive B who knew that the
lead of queen denied the ace. Both
knew as positively, therefore, that the
ace was held by Z as though they had
seen his hand.
Aa correctly played, Z takes the club
trick In- his own hand and at once
leads the diamond ace, following it
with another round of diamonds which
brings down both king and queen and
establishes the suit, though leaving him
rather than dummy with command.
How to get rid of this card before
dummy'a only re-entry, club king, is
forced, is the next Important consider
ation. The opportunity comes when A
who has won the second round of dia
monds, goes on with her club suit. As
Z must follow sutt to the second round
of clubs, it Is imperative to 'hold up
dummy's king, that on the following
round If A continues the clubs, he may
discard his diamond. This he does and
dummy is left In the lead with 'his
diamonds established. It may be ar
gued that if at trick 5. after Z had re
fused to put up dummy's king, A had
shifted the suit, preferably to hearts.
Z's scheme would have been frustrated
and the diamonds could not have been
brought in.
Different Coarsea Pursued.
This In reality is true, but it Is also
true that the majority of players would
pursue an entirely different policy af
ter seeing the hands and knowing the
exact distribution of the cards, from
that they usually pursue. In the one
case they are guided by actual facts:
n the other, by inferences, in so far
as they go. A was perfectly aware
that the third round of clubs put
dummy in the lead, but she was also
aware that K held the commanding
diamond and therefore blocked the suit.
What she could not tell was that Z
held two clubs only, and that this
round would give him the chance to
discard his diamond. Had Z followed
suit to this round. As course would
have proved entirely to her advantage,
enabling her ultimately to bring In her
clubs. Had she desired to shift the
suit, it would have been difficult, in-
d. to know which of the two to lead.
With no Indication from her partner.
either of them would have been aa bad
as a lead from her own band. Besides,
she could tell from the dummy hand,
that the queen of either suit would
eventually be good in her hand, and the
essential thing, therefore, seemed to
be to lead a third round and establish
her clubs.
Interesting and susceptible of pretty
play as is this hand when played cor
rectly at no trump, it also offers Inter
esting possibilities, and. if correctly
managed, is a game hand, at diamonds.
he suit with which Y overcallen. I
will give It next Sunday at this decla
X AM Indebted to Charles Fl Coffin
I the well-known whist authority of
Indianapolis, for the follow In from
the Indianapolis Star of January 14.
relative to Mr. Work's recent visit to
that city In tha Interest of tha Red
Cross.
"Milton C. Work, tha noted lawyer
and whlat expert of Philadelphia, who
arrived here last Thursday to give les
sons In auction brldce for the benefit
of tha Ited Cross, left for Louisville
yesterday after a very successful visit
4 Btera. He gave a lecture on the game
j oa Thursday evening In the auditorium
of the new library bulldln:. which was
t attnded bv a laree number of the
local bridge piayers. On Friday and
t tUturdar be waa encaged for lessons
of one how each, from A. M. to 11 P.
t . tearhlnc classes In different plarea
Co Saturday evening a tournament for
the members of the classes was con
duct'd bv Mr Work In the Riley room
of the Clarpool Hotel, at which time
tne 24 deala arrantcrd by Mr Work, and
known aa im KJ Cross hands, were
flayed.
"All the players speak In the moat
Complimentary manner of Mr. Work's
charming personality and great ability
as a. teacher of the popular game of
tne day. and all ktr.f that they re
ceived tbelr money'a aortn in the bene
fit and pleasure of the lessons. 10 say
nothing? of the valuable contribution to
toe Ked, Cross fund.
Red lr.il to laravfH.
Mr. Work has made many friends
here who will watrh with deep Interest
t rtm result of bis novel and svlf-sacrt-fic.nc
tnur of the country t.r the bene
fit of the great war chant, and Inci
dentally to the furtherance of good
aaction. The severe weather on tat.
tnur Interfered to some extent with
the attndsnc of the tournament, but
IM Ked Cruea will receive a banaaome
addition vr Its fand as the reault or
Sir. Work s vtatt here, as the total re
ceipts from the pUvera art given to
that society. Tbe eaart amount of feee
collected cannot bo alvea now. aa all
Im dasoeo kavo sol as yet reported.,
but It Is estimated that at leaat'ISOO
will be realised.
Mr. Work's unique scheme which bad
Its Initiatory meeting in the executive
mansion in Albany. .New lork. In Oc
tober, has so far been an unqualified
success, netting about 30.0l In the
first two months. In New York. Cleve
land. Montreal and Philadelphia classes
have been full at feea Tanging from
lie to t-i for each person for lessons,
with additional feea of 81 for lectures,
and from 12 to i each for tournament
Mr. Wurk does not himself suggest the
basis of fees, but asks each local com
mittee to do thla He stipulates only
that the basis shall be such that each
and every one will consider that full
value has been received. I am still re
grettlng that our Coast wss not suf
ficiently hearty In its responsiveness
aa that we. too. might have had a part
in this wonderfully patriotic and In all
respects delightful scheme.
lerestlag llaad Noted.
One of the most Interesting bands
which has recently been brought to my
not Ire la the following. Like many
bands, it Is susceptible of a good score
or otherwise, according to the special
ability of the players, tUe responsibility
In this case resting entirely with the
declarer;
o 17
Kit
4 a(ts
J!
Q t 5 T- K J t 4
U J 1074 A . B 111
K 7 Z Q 4
UH kill
4
O
o a i :
OA
4 A J 10
o A 10 5 4
Z. tbe dealer, with all suits protected.
sr.d that desideratum of a. I players, a
hundred acta bids no trumps. A Tpaseea
Y. with no help for a no trumper but a
six-card diamond suit. said "two
diamonda" H passed. Z. with the nsual
reluctance of players to relinquish a
hundred-point honor ocore. -and In the
hope that with three good diamonds In
bis own band be can establish and
brins la iua partner s diamonds, want
I Z .went 'down, two tricks, or IPO,
which canceled his nuntirea ares, in
stead of realising his own woeful lack
of forethought and consequent egregi
ous blunders, like so many players
whom we all know, he tried to shift the
blamo to, his partner, saying that If he
had not overca;led with "two diamonds."
thus forcing hlra to "two no trump?."
they would have gone down only one.
J-oi' cJ2olseiy sre zziade to ntafcli cttr&atxis
Blame la Shifted.
Washington Star.
'Aa a youngster, every cigar I
smoked made me ill."
"And now," replied his wife, "they
make other people ill." '
What goes up must come down, as
many an aeroplane chauffeur is discovering.
MANUFACTURERS of fabrics are
Just at present bsy showing
their new products to buyers for
the retail stores, studios, etc. None of
these lovely new things has as yet been
placed on the counters, and indeed will
not be until Spring. But feminine curl
osity Is eternally piqued over the point
of prospective fashions, so it may not
be amiss to give an inkling- of ap
proaching modes in textiles.
A noticeable feature of the new lines
Is that the "best sellers" In the way of
made-up curtains, portieres, etc.. are
offered in conjunction with yard goods
to match, and this fact establishes the
rule that at least one article of furni
ture in the room shall be upholstered
to correspond with the draperies. On
the whole, it is an excellent method of
unifying effect. In these matched up
holstery and drapery stuffs damasks
take the lead. They are closely fol
lowed by blocked linens, which are
more In evidence for use In informal
rooms.
Never has there been such a variety
of damasks, both silk and satin, in high
favor. A beautiful Sicilian damask has
a fine diagonal twill which reverses
direction in the center of the design.
Coarser weaves in brocatelle are also
to be seen with repousse effect plain
ly showing satin figures on a back
ground of coarse silk twill. Copies of
French damask being made in this
country are exquisite in design and
t..t nr.i U..ti...l..I.. V.
. . hi nuioi ij ueauiiiui is a
broche damask, and some early Per
sian copies are striking, having circu
lar repeats of patterned frames inclos
ing sacred emblems.
Trade expressions sometimes need
elucidation. Damask satin be it un
derstood, are all in satin weave, the
pattern being brought out by having
me tnreacs woven in the opposite di
rection from the ground, breaking the
surface of the luster and nicely con
trasting with It. Satin damask has a
satin ground with a taffeta pattern.
Brocatelle and damask would be
identical were it not that In weaving
the pattern in brocatelle it is made to
siana -out, while In damask it lies flat
Period fabrics are strongly in evi
dence, hi nee period furnishing has be
come more than a passing fad the de
mand is now urgent for correct period
draperies and upholstery stuffs, and
several up-to-date manufacturers have
specialized on this score. Clerks are
being educated up to meet tha demand
with authentic information.
.Research into antique, textile design
has resulted in some marvelously
beautiful cloths. The finest are the
Italian types. One admirable piece is
a fine Italian embroidery in color on
linen in a small allover pattern in 16th
century design. Another early 16th
century pattern woven only in narrow
silk width shows an arabesque of grape
vines and leaves with a small border
alternating a leaf and a bunch of
grapes in regular repeat. An Italian
silk dama.sk of tbe 14th century, in dull
taupe and gold, shows a pair of pan
thers, a castle, a tree and a large flow
er in raised velvet. The figures are all
small and conventionalized. Some Ve
netian two-tone velvets are In large
patterns. Others are in funny little
raised sprigs on satin grounds of much
lighter .tint.
Among less expensive outputs is a
line of art silk curtains with . yard berry, plum, mahogany and brown.
goods to match made up in variegated
color effects, the same pattern being
reproduced in 20 or more different com
binations of color.
Velvets with "interchangeable back
grounds," though by no means inex
pensive, bid fair to be the darlings of
the year. In these the raised velvet
mqtifs are all In one color, while the
groundwork is or striped fiik ana
satin In contrasting colors. The effect
Is gorgeous. Some of the striped back
grounds are hairline and some have
dark, wide satin bands outlined by nar
row bright stripes forming groups be
tween flat light tints of plain silk.
Even more strongly contrasting in
texture are loom fabrics of artificial
silk woven in Chinese style.
An American power-loom tapestry
has a pattern of flowers and birds,
clearly inspired by the Italian antique.
Antique in spirit is a less costly cot
ton velvet in which the contrasting
textures of the stipple simulate the
sheen and luster of silk. The pattern
is adopted from an ancient Italian tex;
tile and has the effect of rich emboss
ing. . . i
Color with some of the mills is a
most important factor. Plum colors.
mulberries and wine tones in fact, all
of the purplish tints are well repre
sented. Two new mercerized damasks,
one a decided deep violet and the other
light seal brown, are executed in
patterns that are well drawn. These
mercerized damasks will be among the
'nobular priced" goods. They have
just the slightest amount of real silk
in the filling to give tne iasnionaoie
play of light. They come in blue, mul-
The most exacting are those that have
metal threads In the weave, a facsimile
of old. Italian stuffs. Extremes In scalo
seem to be sought, either minute pat
terns or massive ones are liked better
than medium sizes.
"Matching .up," which has heretofore
presented an almost insurmountabla
difficulty, has been somewhat simpli
fied by the mills that are turning out
plain silks and satins dyed in tints
identical with those used in more elab
orate goods, so that various different
textiles are offered as one unit in the
decoration of a single room. Rich pan
els of Portuguese coloring and treat
ment are offset by properly less deco
rative but harmonious "fillings." Their
usefulness is accordingly considerably
enhanced.
fnltfin nnH wnru tnnestrle refnlnlnft- .
their usual popularity, have been aug
mented by a number of new effects,
such as the Jacobean. William and
Mary and Chinese. Others have vari
ations of the floral effects. Petit point
and other needlework designs are char
acteristic and well colored. One of the
best is a new wool tapestry, a largo
early English pattern on a brown
cross-stitch ground.
Armures. casement cloths and other
weaves are to be shown among the sun
fast fabrics. A new sunfast, almost
gauzelike in appearance, has a distinct
sheen. It is introduced for boudoir
draperies. Table runners by the yard are
among the fabric novelties. They come
in different widths. from 12 to 17
inches, and in tapestry and damask '
weaves.
Separate Skirts of Striped
Silk in Vogue.
Early Season Bathing -Suits tilve
Plenty of Room for Free Move
ment of Body.
SEPARATE skirts of striped silk, for
wear with lace and chiffon blouses
at informal afternoon affairs, are dis
tinctly "sporty" and deserve their name
of dressy-sport skirts. The stripes
run around and are very gay and very
wide, so that the ground color of silk
shows only as a contrasting stripe.
Sometimes the stripe is in solid color,
as for instance, a broad stripe of black
satin on a ground of midnight blue or
mulberry taffeta; other stripes are in
narrow bands of ombre coloring on
brown or golden tan background. These
smart skirts - are cut in straight
breadths and measure about IVz yards
at the foot, the material being gath
ered in several rows of shirring at the
waistline, with a narrow heading
which rises above the shirring over
the blouse. Sometimes there are pock
ets but pockets are rather under the
ban now that everybody is trying to
conserve material.
.
Bathing suits for Palm Beach fore
tell next Summer's styjes, and It is
pretty well settled now that the ideal
swimming costume is of jersey, which
gives perfect freedom to all muscles
in the active exercise. In many of the
Southland suits silk or wool jersey is
combined very prettily with taffeta
silk or with satin panels and bands of
the silken stuff trimming the jersey .
costume. And skirts are not banished
from swimming suits by any means; '
most of the California bathing cos-'
tumes are in the one-piece, slip-over- -bead
style with a short skirt and long
waisted upper part, sometimes joined
to the skirt under a very loose belt.
Attractive suits are of white mohair
with panels and bands of blue taffeta.
Circular veils are thrown over small
turbans In graceful effect and no pin-.,
ning or adjusting of the veil is nee-'
essary. Large lace veils, worn with
big hats, are sewed to the head-size '
of the hat, the brim projecting beyond
the veil a very comfortable arrange
ment when the wind is high.
President Foresees the Need.
Boy Scout News. .
President Wilson at the outbreak .
of our war against Germany evidenced
his keen appreciation of the importance
of properly informing the American
public as to the war and its causes.
the principles at stake and the progress
in the war by creating the committee
on public information.
This committee, after seeing the suc
cessful results of the Boy Scouts of
America in other National efforts, has
called upon the Boy Scouts for help in
the furtherance of its most important
work. The world war is for liberty and
democracy. America has long been
recognized as the leader among tho
nations standing for liberty and democ
racy. America entered the war as a
sacred duty to uphold the principles
of liberty and democracy.
A PATCHWORK QUILT.
TMm Is a ray rood tlma of yr to
hunt up the perfectly rood ecrani of pi-v-terlal
that may hare found their war
durlnr the l-v?t twelre months into the
rag-bar. end to make them play ieir
part In thie economical world. Bmeade
and qullte are always necessary no mat
ter if time as well as food Is beta
Boorerized. So It will not be time wasted
to ret jour bits of blue and green to
gether and to sit down and start on this
lleur de Us aullt. near de lis are esDe
dally rood now, because patriotically they
symbolise our union with the French, and
of course France means the allies, and our
victory.
Directions for maktar the flour de Us
quilt or spread are riTen here:
Stamp on IS Inch sanare blocks of un
bleached munliri the flenr de 11 rt-t-'n.
Then cut out tne separate parts f tas)
pattern exactly aa fivea in txw actum
panyinr Illustration. From parts of pat
terns just cut make patterns of stiff card
board, and use them ss patterns In cut-ting-
out the pieces of colored chambraar
which are used, allowing- three-eta-htha
Inch all around for turninr in the edres.
Firures t and 2 are of blue chambray.
flrure 1 beinr basted down smoothly and
edres turned under and hemmed down to
unbleached muslin block flrat, then flrure
3 is basted down orer center of flrures 1
(as shown in the desim). turninr the
edres under and hemming down the same
as Urure 1.
Firures 8 to 9. Indunive. are of rreen
chambray. beinr basted and hemmed down
to unbleached muslin block in the asms
manner as flrures 1 and 2.
The design for the four corners ts placed
cornerwiae on the block of unbleached
muslin: for all other blocks, strsirht up
and down. The number of blocks depends
upon the size of the quilt desired.
These blocks wbeo finished are betnmed
down on a larre piece of unbleached mus
lin the km of the quilt desired: first in
the corner place a block with the corner
flower deeirn. then skip a space the use
of the block, then place a flower design
block, etc The number of blocks with
the deairn on must be an odd number,
both in lenrth and width of aullt. so as to
brinr a corner flower deairn in all four
Than work around each block with the
quiitinr or running stitch, either in blue
or white thread the blue is eflectiT nd
also sionr diaronai lines of the unbleached
muelin so ' .ares.
Fuiiab around the edro of uilts with
a bauC of biu chambray.