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About The Sunday Oregonian. (Portland, Ore.) 1881-current | View Entire Issue (Feb. 3, 1918)
1918. 'MOW Modeled Tin: sun-d.y okegoxiax, poetlaxd, February How the War Need of Good Feet Has Reflected Itself in a Feminine Fad for Foot Beauty t v, . . ' i ' ' ' r V :-' : : ' ....... .j; -. i ..... . - . . - ' - i : ..ss. f - -. 1 1' A : ' l y - : ' X 1 J. r. - 3 I r .. . - -i r " j" "'" 'ff'; !?' : : . : : . v j. - ' ' ( : "v ' r " - - , - , . . - - ... - .J( t ; p. V - .- s- , ik 6 Z. , V f 1 f ' . 1. - -v W ' ,.- - Y4",r! . - v. . '., - y " - ' x. " " . " i :V-V " .''''"" 'V-'" ' '5 Foot 0 Mill Catherine Morris, Regarded by Sculptor$ and Shoe Men as a Perfect Type of the Unspoiled Foot. Sculptor Salvatore Bilatti Making a Foot Cast at the Famous War Relief Alley Festa in New York, Where the Fad for Foot Models !s Said to Have Had Its Start. Y . ' : : ? :: jm' V - . '.' . - . v , ?- - v .s ' - . - , 1 Sculptor Bilott?s Cast of the Foot of Miss Doris Bentley, Showing "Free Toes.' Mist Kalherine Morris, Prmised by Sculptors for Perfect Foot and Chosen by Shoe Men as Model for the "New Lest. BT ETHEL THUKSTO.V. TF you r an cptlmltl chat !. tf I yoa W1it ibal vvrythtac will o aut katitr. If sot U rht. ! pit f ryihlac that aMma lo mtac tbm atavr way you Bar tak frh un from tb fact that tha war U conic to b tlrui as well a kUnxi Jt baa Ia4 bima ouh to laia. an4 lnnt f sraaiar kami ar to rsoia. kut a ara Hlliltcliaii irw. Ie mt af clartfyinc rvaulta. kttar rraolattona, bitr actual practlca In Tot hay tMaxt It mm id that an armya t". I ara aa muca mo armjr main da Bvmlanr a tta atomatv Thtra ha. Indwa. Im am aairardaary tik ln a lha Irapvrtanca ot !. It haa ka ahockiaar 1iMar haw aaaay kava inadaau fC Well. ar aianara y t aama ffaaa avaiaat haalth aa4 afficiancy. il lh war talk akaut ft kaa aloaa Ita ran ta aaaka wo ma a tbink ana la lha siaaafaocurara af wamaB'a na taiak ai. Tk err kaa ka ralaa4 waay llaiaa hcXvtr. It haa frtaa, paialaw kut t whlla wa abu4dra4 at tha tconlM of Chlaaaa wemaa avr own clvlllsatlaa kaa kaaa comnlltlDf borrora that eaa aot bo dvBleL for yaara tba ho man baro laid tha troubla to tha woman. nd tba woanaa bavo klamad tba thoa m a. It la bow bttrh lima that thay coma torathar on a fcaaia of aood aanao. which lhay aaara to ko dome and II la tho war that kaa kronarhi about thta condition. tthort ahoaa. ahoaa too amall and ahoaa that ara not at all aullabla to tha aiyla of foot that tbay ara put on har long haa a aold. but wl6 f.xlar at Ita praa ant hick prica. and with lha Inclination that ovary rlcht-lhiaxln- individual haa to wtaka ana pair of ahoaa laat aa loa aa poaaibla. that aha may aot only aronomtaa In tho family purao. but bn abiw to do har bit In war aid. tha thlnn: kaa oomo to tka point whtrt ahoaa ara hataa aalootad far comfort Bad dura kility otylo la of couraa daalrakla. kul ahoo mn will tall you that atylaa ara growlon oonllnually aaoro aanatkla. ' rolt Aalat Saaall Ukaoa. II la aoi t bo tmasiaad that roforwi will aa accepted by aaary woman, but oartalaly tho majority ara maotins tha quaatloa of ahoea with a ataach deter uiaatiaa to ba aouaiblo. Tba fad of the small shea haa passed, and now cornea the desire for the shoe to fit the foot, no matter what the sixa. As a result It haa been shown that the average American foot la not small, and there are a eouple of firms that make a specialty of building shoes to fit the Ions; and narrow foot that haa hereto fore been cramped and distorted be cause tha shoe to fit could not ba ob tained In the markat. This baa produced a change also In the model shoe that Is made by the manufacturers. No lonicrr Is the model shoe made to the last of a IV or a 1 foot. Even If a foot of that else Is narrow the Ions; lines of the American foot ara not found In 1C Artists will tell you this, and the shoe men have oorae to realise that It la so. The feet that llke little mice crept In and out" may still be beautiful, but they are harder to dress now that the amall else Is the exception rather than the rule. New "foot models' are coming to the i fore. It la from the feet of these young women that standardised designs are I being made. Miss Katharine Morris, J happen to I know, la one of the models chosen by : virtue of a remarkably fine foot to . kelp la the standardisation. Mr shoes. Miss Morris tells me, "are , really my greatest concern. I abso lutely refute to dance or walk In new pair of slippers. When new they haa too much resistance and tire my feet. Before working In them I wear them about home for a day or so, for If my feat are not comfortable 1 can aot do my beat work. I think this Is one Iking that has kept ma in gooa health and kep, my feet, la good condition. 'If your feet ara wrong It throws you all out of kilter. Have you never keard any one aay. I had a perfectly epleadld time, but I'm glad to gat home. my feet nearly killed mar Have you ever aeea tkla fool when tha shoe was removed r It la creased apd red and twellaa. and for a long time after the ehoe haa been removed it Is filled with pain. Ton ga to a manicure for your hand to a maeaeuae to keep times marks from your face. Who do you go to for your feet? A ehiropodlat la badly aaed la this country. Women go to him wkea tkelr feet have become Ui. and they expect wonders. Aa a matter of fact, at least once a month the feet ought to receive the care of a specialist, and every day they should be as well cared for as the hands. If women would massage their feet more, bathe them In hot water and then a cold bath, rub them with cold cream and use a well-prepared- foot powder, there would ba far leas work for the beauty doctor. When your feet hurt the discomfort la expressed In your face. This makes lines. How can those lines be rubbed out unless the cauaa Is remedied?" Interest Ita Feet Thewiaelvea. Ever sines tho famous "Alley Festa" was held In New York City for the benefit of war relief, under tha aus pices of Mrs. Harry Payne Whitney, aociety women hava been learning what their feet really looked like, for out of this has grown the fad of having- a cast made of your foot. This was introduced at the festa by Salva tore F. Eilotti, tha eminent sculptor, and you cannot find this. One reason who gave bis time for the relief work. Ever since then society women have been going to Mr. Bllottl and other sculptors in many cities. West and East, to have casts made of their feet, and some of them have been so stunned at the truths revealed by this casting that they have reformed in footgear. 'There certaln-ly are some very beau tiful feet among the society women," says this sculptor, "but there are many that have been cruelly distorted. The foot of Miss Doris Bentley is one of the most perfect that I have seen in all my casting. It approaches the classic foot in many ways. The mod ern ahoea have not hurt It to any ap preciable extent. There is a plane in this foot that Is uncommon to find and Is very beautiful to an artist. . Above the toes part way up the instep, or be fore you reach the instep, there is a smooth broad plane. Look at many feet why you cannot is because the feet have been shoved forward andi the flesh rises abruptly above the toes. "Also you will notice in this foot that the toes have not been, cramped. They extend well out in froxt and the foot does' not come to the decided point that is found in many." Even if you .have not a plaster cast to help you see what your foot really looks like. It is your uVuty, according to the foot experts, to study your feet -r-in a mirror or otherwise that you may know the real truth. The fact Is that most persons' have never critically studied the actual form of their own feet. The fact is alsoihat most women think of how their feet look in shoes, rather than how they feel, forgetting that It la the feal that oounta in the balance not only of health and. strength, but In tha beauty that goes with these. PRAYERS IN ENGLISH CHURCHES FOR ENEMIES CONTRASTED WITH GERMAN APPEALS OF HATE Edith tnyon Writes Entertainingly of Everyday Life in England and of Her Hospital Work All Are Seeking Substitutes for Food. BT EDITH LANTOf. SOMEWHERK IN ENGLAND, Jan. 7. Yesterday was a day of interces sion and special prayer for victory. All the churches were packed with people. Not officially, but by a fortunate chance, we were seated with the wounded soldiers, ao were In excellent company. Ona of them dropped bis collection money, and another one groped around on the floor of tha pew looking for It, )ust as If he were back In the trenohea. Finally, be took out hia alectrie torch, found it and emerged In triumph. Aa all tha collections throughout the country were for tha benefit of the Red Cross fund I expect these soldiers were anxious to add their mite. Hanging half way up the church Is the tattered banner used by the Im perial Yeomanry during the Boer war Underneath It la tha list of honored names of those who were killed there ning from sword and cannon, send fighting for their country. The Mayor and the Council attended la state, the Mayor wearing his scarlet robes of office and his heavy gold chain, tied with a blue ribbon. He walked between two Generals,' and in front of them marched three mace- bearers carrying two silver maces and one silver-gilt one. The bishop took the service and there were 'especial prayers written for the occasion. The bishop's own Bon has fallen in action. We were generous enough to pray for our enemies, a bit grudgingly on my part I must confess. a a a As a sample of the charitable way In which those enemies of ours pray for us I will quote the following prayer. which was said in the German churches: "Thou who dwellest high above Cherubim. Seraphim and Zeppelins in thy heaven, thou who art enthroned as a god of thunder In the midst of lightning from the clouds, and light- thunder, lightning, hall and tempest hurtling open our enemy, bestow upon us his banners, hurl him down into th dark burial pits." Pleasant-natured people, those Ger mans! We shall need more umbrellas I is wounded and. in hospital somewhere la Africa. a a a "'Whilst our men are out fighting, the women are busy making the food sup ply stretch out as far . as possible. Every housekeeper does her own shop ping nowadays, and a very sporting occupation it is sometimes. One ineets a beaming friend (who Is not at all short of money) returning in triumph with a whole pound of butter. A year or two ago she would expect three or four pounds of butter to be delivered as a matter of course. Now she does her own hunting, and I am inclined to think thoroughly en joys the exeltement of the chase. It puts a new interest In the daily mo notony of the household provider's life. The fact is you can never plan out a meal until you know what luck you have on your shopping expedition. A good catch of tea and margarine in the morning brightens a housekeeper's existence for the whole day. a a a It Is the era of substitutes. The cry ing need of the age is a thoroughly good substitute for food. One of my friends was very pleased with herself because she thought of using chopped crystallized cherries in her mincemeat because she had not any raisins or currants. She said they were delicious, though not at all cheap. The fact is that scarcity of what were formerly considered necessities has developed ingenuity. Every woman gives up a lot of her time trying to find out "the next best thing." It is a return to the old primitive law of food by capture. All classes seem to Join in the quest fr margarine, with the exception of the very intelli gent, who stay at home or think out a substitute. Our grocer has now announced that all parcels under seven pounds in weight must he carried home by tha customer, Jsp very great hardship. a a a I beard an amusing story the other day of a woman who was learning to knit at the beginning of the war. Sha started on a body belt and knitted dili gently on and on, with the result that this body belt was so enormous that no one could imagine any human being big enough to wear it." Her brother rudely called it "a dado' for a dining-room." Finally and very reluctantly she consented to allow her sister to unravel this outsize garment in order to use the perfectly good wool for something useful. To avoid seeing her weeks of labor brought to naught, the author of tho body belt went out for a walk mean time. In about 20 minutes she rushed in breathless, treading on a heap of unwound wool all unheedJngly, and shouted: Don't unpick It! Don t unpick it! I've just seen a great big Sergeant Major. It will fit him exactly." Htie explained excitedly that If he had not been on horseback she would have told him about it there and then. Her family simply roared with than ever if their cheerful little prayer laughter about It. Ope pf the mtold mo is granted. " X hare written the pames pf my spe cial soldiers who have been killed in action on the flyleaf of my prayer book. They shall never ba forgotten. The Sergeant-Gunner's mother was telling me that when he was home on his last leave be was so keen on sol diering that he lined all his sisters up in a row and drilled them. Told them laughingly that they were a very prom ising lot of recruits. They had a great deal of fun about it. They joined to gether and sent out eigarettes to his men this Christmas. I have just heard of another friend of mine, a chief bombing officer, who the whole sad tale. Anyway she found her perfect man too late, because the body belt was 1! unpicked.' ' Imagine tha poor portly Sergeant Major's embarrassment had she forced this gift upon him! Sad and thorny Is the path of the beginner in most lines of business. a a It is certain that the knitted things which eoms from Portland do not look like the work of beginners. I have just sent off a package of these woolies to one of our biggest battleships. A beautifully fitted pomfort bag haa delighted the heart of one of my own (Concluded on Page 8.)