The Sunday Oregonian. (Portland, Ore.) 1881-current, January 27, 1918, SECTION FIVE, Page 6, Image 66

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    THE SUNDAY OKEGOXIAX, IPORTLAXD, JANUARY 27, 1918,
according: to whether an odd or an even
number of tables be engaged in play;
If an even number, the players other
wise at the conclusion of one-half the
circuit would strike the same hands
they had already played. I will con
sider fl rat when an odd number is en
gaged: As a table complete its quota of
trays, scores are recorded in the usual
SPRING FROCKS PROMISE TO BE MADE IN
SIMPLE LINES AND WITH FEW TRIMMINGS
GOWNS FOR SPRING ARE CHARMING WITH
APRON STRINGS OR SUGGESTION. OF BUSTLE
Foulards Are Going to Be in Great Favor, Which Will Be Approred by Most Women, Since No Other Summer
Silk Has the Dressy and Practical Features of the Foulard.
Stunning Bridge Frocks Are Modeled on Loose Easy Lines and Made of Soft Materials No Tight Fit and No
Pronounced Flare; That Is the Dictum for Spring.
manner, save that there is no rubber
bonus, but in lieu thereof a bonus of
125 points to the side winning game
without the aid of a previous score.
Each side then computes totals and the
smaller total is deducted from the
hiirher. The pair having- the higher
score are "plus" the. difference so ob
tained: the pair having: the lower score,
"minus" this amount. Previous to this
subtraction, however, each score must
be examined by the opposing side, and.
if approved, initialed. When this has
boon done, even though it be later dis
covered an error has been made, it may
not be rectified save with the consent
of both pairs at the table.
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1 li loe collar ailds tbo final touch of
I daintiness.
. .. ... ...
inraprrjr ntm qune aumcient trim-1
KtrlkuiK detail of this prinic walk
tr frock thut it tPiTipts oik to over
ok the ijuh1I new and important
iemlapttc-and-iimter.iieeve effect, hut
"When this process has been com
pleted at all tables, the East and West
players at each table move to the next
hlKher numbered table, as from 1 to 2,
2 to 3, etc, while the trays are moved
in the opposite direction, or to the
next lower numbered table, as from S
to 2, 2 to 1, and so forth. The players
at the lowest numbered table move to
table No. 1, while the trays at table 1
are moved to the lowest numbered
table. When the next set of trays is
played, and scores recorded and checked
as before, the next progression takes
place, and the process is repeated until
a complete round of the tables has
been made, when It will be found that
all the deals have been played, and
that the North and South players,
throughout have played the same hands;
likewise the Kast and West players
throughout.
Averages are obtained by adding- the
entire North and South and East and
West scores separately, and dividing
each total by the number of tables
engaged. As is seen, each side has its
own average. All players in excess
of this average are so much plus: those
who fall short, so much "minus." The
North and South pair having the larg
est net "plus" are the winners of the
side; ditto, the East and West pair
having- the largest net plus.
When there is an even number of
tables engaged in play the total num
ber of hands is divided into two equal
parts and one-half the number finished
before the other half is started. When
the east and west players get half
way around in the progression they
remain for another hand, or set of
hands, as the case may be, at the table
at which they find themselves, and
then pas on to the next table. This
makes them finish the first half with
one table yet to play.
When the second half of the game
begins the east and west players move
back to the table next following the
one at which they played the double
set and proceed as before. When they
pet half way around the second time
they find themselves at the table at
which they did not play at all the first
time, and as that Is where they now
play a double set of hands before pass
ing to the next table, when they get
around the second time they have
played an equal number of hands at
each table. Scores are computed as
above explained.'
In "team auction," a very popular
form at tournaments, in which teams
of four, eight and at times larger num
bers, usually a representation of dif
ferent clubs, take part, the schedule is
such that every member of a team
plays with every other player rn equal
number of times.
As is quite general!- known, the
Knickerbocker Whist Club of New
Tork features duplicate garar and Is
known as "the Home of Duplicate
Auction. it is there .he gumj is
played in all its pristine vigor, and In
teresting hands kept and compared and
discussed at future meetings for the
benefit of all concerned. The Thurs
day evening meetings of -he Knicker
bocker Whist Clu' throughout the sea
son, or from October to May, are the
mecca of all lovers of duplicate, not
only of the immediate locality, but of
players from all over the country
whenever in position to take advantage
of them.
The trays used at the beginning of
the duplicate game were exce jingly
primitive, but as the game grew in
favor newer and better devices were
constantly submitted, until finally the
acme of perfection was reached , by
Cassius M. I'aine in the compact, at
tractive and durable trays which bear
his name. There is nothing better on
the market today.
...
What is known as "progressive
auction," the bete noir of the real
auction player, but nevertheless a good
form where mixed players, players of
varying shades and conditions, as are
usually found at social gatherings, are
engaged, is played in a variety of ways,
one way being as follows:
A uniform number of deals, depend
ng upon the number of tables taking
part, is played at each table. Scores
are Kept in tne usual manner, save
that no value attaches to games or
rubbers. At the completion of the
deals the pair at each table whose
score below the line totals the higher
add 50 or 100 points, as has been pre
viously agreed upon, to their total
score and progress. At tne taDie at
which they now find themselves they
change partners and continue as be
fore. A really better form for gather
ings of this nature is to allow each
table to play for the rubber before any
progression takes place. ine nrsi
table to complete the rubber announces
the fact by some preconcerted signal.
perhaps the striking of a belL When
the signal is given, playing ceases at
all tables, save those tables actually
engaged in the play of a hand. (This
does not refer to bidding.) The totals
are then computed at each table, an
extfa 2S points being allowed for
game. Winners progress as before.
HERE are the lrnple lines, the al
mfwl plnin bHlic. the soft dra
l)rv fit rnLirf tati.l lha v a
rfe.-i thai typify the "little silk
frock" t'l Spring. This d.ilntV nio'lcl I
mjiie of gru) r.idiiim silk and a
Kv-orfette in srlf-tone. The square
Deck and rfr.-t!y plnin. f aM-n-ln-hark
bfwlire. with It rather elaborate
and Individual elfcte Is exrreil'ngly
m-irt and up to the moment. A few
silk buttons on coll.tr and sleeve and a
tll of metal eFmhrol.lerv on the tunic
Foulards are goiiiK to be In great
favor and most women will feel delight
In this, since no other Sunimrr silk has
the combined drvxxy irnl practical fea
tures of the excellent foulsrU. A new
Ull foulard pattern, with conventional
flowers Imposed on a novelty stripe de
sign. Is shown In this practical and
pretty frock for afternoon wear. The
urpllce bodice, long sleeve and simple
hut graceful skirt drapery are in ac
cord wlih the present Ideals of dress.
Still another variation Is for all ta
bles to continue playing until every
table has completed a rubber. This
gives an advantage to the quicker
Dlavers. as they are allowed to score
The irav little shniililer cun. I. ich I us iiinnv rubbers as they are able to
a strlkinir detail of this .Knrinir wm I ic. I nla v. They also score 1-a tor eacn
Ing frock that it temuts one to over- came of an unfinished rubber and 1
look the equally new and important for each successful hand of an un-
cnemlsctie-and-iimler.ileeve effect, hut finished game.
all combine to give the costume a dig
nified, quaint dlrectoire suxgestion.
Tricot sera-e and satin are the materials
and the chemisette, collar and under
sleeves are of fine while organdy and
lace. The satin cuff tied with a bow
nvee h. U-rlat la u nr-,,.. . I .... i I .. i
... - . a. ricilj UriHll, ajlUl
k r . v. - .. i ....
permuting me
undersleeve to show only in" part, is in
teresting.
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rONKORMAHLT to my statement of T. Mitchell, of Chicago, one of the
laet Sunday. I begin my discussion bright swnd shining lights of the whist
today with a description of dupll-1 Armament of a few years ago, and the
rat auction when several tables are I leader of the duplicate whist movement
engaged In play. A number of formalin America. The system was Intro-
pply In such cases, but the simplest I "uced by him Into the Chicago Whist
nd perhaps the most popular form l
rht is jjnown ss "progressive .dupli
cate." This l also spoken of n "com
mk auction." from tne fart that the
several players sit with their backs
to the different points of the compart
and are known as North and South and
Kast and West players, respectively
Club, and at once sprang Into univer
sal favor. It was later adopted by the
American Whist League and became a
feature of Its annual congresses.
According to this system the players,
as already explained, range themselves
ss North and South and Kast and West
players, respectively, and all the North
land South players play the same hands
This system is the Invention of John I throughout; likewise the East and West
players. The contest, therefore. Is not
between a North and South and an
Kast and West pair, but between the
North and South players throughout
and the Kast and West players through
out. Any number of tables from two
on may engage In the contest. In any
case the number of hands which it is
decided to play is divided equally
among the number of tables engaged
In play, and the quota st each table
Is played before any progrexsion takes
place. For instance, if nine tables are
engaged in play, and it is decided to
play Z7 deals, three trays are placed at
each table: If 13 tables take part, and
it is decided to play 26 deals, two trays
are placed at each table, it Is usual
to place the trays In regular numerical
order, as trays 1, : and 3 st table 1:
4. & and 6 at table 2. etc The arrows
on the boards In play must point north
before a card is removed from the tray
...
It should here he explained that the
order of progression varies somewhat
Knitted Garments Needed
Here Not Abroad.
Soldiers Always Xeed Socks, bnt
Wristlets Are I ed to lleaa Boots.
HE looped-up drapery at the back
may be meant to suggest wide
apron strings for the panel apron
at the front of the frock; and again it
may be a modified bustle effect. Either
way the lines are distinctly charming
and simple and demure, as most frocks
insist that their lines shall be Just
now. Pale gray taffeta silk is the
frock material, with flowing sleeves of
pale gray silk crepe. Touches of em
broidery on the "apron" give the stamp
of individuality.
Paris Insists on loose, easy lines andi
softly draped materials. Jo tight fit
and no pronounced flare: that is t!ie
Pari.i dictum for Spring. Both of these
smart afternoon costumes are of chif
fon draped over satin foundations and
both are trimmed with bead embroid
ery. The sleeves of the darker frock
are particularly interesting: the
oblique bodice opening in the lighter
model. One frock is of dark blue chif
fon with self-tone embroidery: the
otlier of bisque chiffon over black with
blue, white and black beading.
...
In the cool, refined color harmony of
pearl gray and dark blue Is this froci
for afternoon reception wear: Chiffor
and more chiffon, insists raris, and il
this instance the couturier has evolve
a new way to add chirfon in a raptivat
ing jumper which starts out by beinii
a shoulder scarf, but ends by altachinn
itself to a back panel of the clufTot
hodice and thence rontinulns- down
ward to make a looped-up flounce or
the skirt. Like, most of the Spring
sleeves, these have loose and flowing "1
linc.-t.
weeks ago during the acute cold spell.
There were 600 sweaters at the head
quarters destined for France, and be
cause of official red tape these could
not be released for home use.
The suggestion that socks and not
wristlets, helmets and mufflers be set
up on busy fejninine knitting needles
from now on seems a good one. A
soldier can wear but one sweater and
one muffler, but he needs any number
of socks. Just as his sister at home can
get along with a single sweater, but
his belated Christmas I musl "ae ,f ui'iJ i ..-
mgs. x.ei 11 De sucks vy ait means.
Socks are far more fascinating to
knit, as everyone who has made them
acknowledges, than any other sort of
knitted wear. It is a bit harder to
learn how to do them, but If they are
what the soldiers need and want, by
all means let every woman tackle the
intricate sock directions and the man
agement of several needles with a will.
NEW YORK. Jan. 26. (Special.)
In a recent letter from the front
In France a young Lieutenant of avia
tion writes to his mother: "More and
more sweaters, mufflers and wristlets
are arriving every day. One of the
boys, opening
package yesterday,' exclaimed:
" -Y Hods! another pair of wristlets.
Now I have something to clean my gun
with.' If the dear ladies persist in
sending us knitted things (of which
we have already a surplus supply) let
them send socks. Every chap needs
socks, but wristlets are a drug on the
market. They are being used to clean
boots and gloves with."
In the face of the constant appeals
for warm knitted garments from l.iost
of the camps In America, this over
loading of the soldiers abroad with
knitted wearables does seem a la
mentable waste of energy and material.
A New Jersey Red Cross headquar
ters was begged to sup-)ly sweaters
to a New Jersey cantonment a few
Hotel Chefs Make War Cake.
Food conservation is having concrete
results as practiced by the big- New
Tork hotels and many are the surprises
concocted by the ingenious chefs.
"Oscar" of the Waldorf has produced
"war cake a la Waldorf," which, al
though economical in that it requires
no ee-gs or butter, is nevertheless tasty.
It made a great hit when it was served
at the recent "war dinner" of the Fifth
Avenue Association.
The recipe is as follows:
Two cups of brown sugar.
Two cups of hot water. .
Two tablespoonfuls of lard.
One package of raisins.
One teaspoonful of salt.
One teaspoonfull of ground cinnamon.
One teaspoonful of ground cloves.
Boil all ingredients for five minutes
after they begin to bubble and when
cold add the following: '
Three cups of flour.
One teaspoonful of baking soda dis
solved in one teaspoonful of hot water.
Bake in two loaves for 45' minutes
in a slow oven. This cake improves
if allowed to ripen for three or four
days.
know more than half of them?" de
manded the lawyer.
"Why if it comes to that. I'm wilfing
to swear that I know more than all of
them put toirether."
For Skins Affected
by Winds and Weather
Some Witness.
St. Ixiuis Republic.
The prosecuting attorney had en
countered a somewhat difficult wit
ness. Finally he asked the man If he
was acquainted with any of the men
on the jury.
"Yes, sir," announced the witness,
"more than half of them."
"Are you willing to swear that you
This is the season when she who
woulrl have a spotless, lily-white, satiny
complexion should turn her thoughts to
mercollzed wax. the firm friend of the
winter girl. Nothing so effectually
overcomes the despoiling effects of
piercing winds and biting cold temper
atures. The wax literally absorbs the
chapped, reddened or coarsened cuticle,
bringing forth a brand new skin, clear,
soft and girlishly beautiful. An ounces
of mercolized wax, obtainable at any
drugstore, applied nighily like cold
cream, and washed off mornings, will
gradually improve the worst complex
ion. She who coddles herself all day In an
overheated house and finds her skin
flushed and flabby as a consequence, I I
can quickly freshen up for the evningl
by just bathing her face in a lotion
made by dissolving an ounce of pow
dered saxolite in a half pint wiich hazef."
She'll find this most ref rsiinir. lit
smooths out wrinkles and draws In tin
saggy lissue.-i-Adv.