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About The Sunday Oregonian. (Portland, Ore.) 1881-current | View Entire Issue (Jan. 27, 1918)
THE SUNDAY OKEGOXIAX, IPORTLAXD, JANUARY 27, 1918, according: to whether an odd or an even number of tables be engaged in play; If an even number, the players other wise at the conclusion of one-half the circuit would strike the same hands they had already played. I will con sider fl rat when an odd number is en gaged: As a table complete its quota of trays, scores are recorded in the usual SPRING FROCKS PROMISE TO BE MADE IN SIMPLE LINES AND WITH FEW TRIMMINGS GOWNS FOR SPRING ARE CHARMING WITH APRON STRINGS OR SUGGESTION. OF BUSTLE Foulards Are Going to Be in Great Favor, Which Will Be Approred by Most Women, Since No Other Summer Silk Has the Dressy and Practical Features of the Foulard. Stunning Bridge Frocks Are Modeled on Loose Easy Lines and Made of Soft Materials No Tight Fit and No Pronounced Flare; That Is the Dictum for Spring. manner, save that there is no rubber bonus, but in lieu thereof a bonus of 125 points to the side winning game without the aid of a previous score. Each side then computes totals and the smaller total is deducted from the hiirher. The pair having- the higher score are "plus" the. difference so ob tained: the pair having: the lower score, "minus" this amount. Previous to this subtraction, however, each score must be examined by the opposing side, and. if approved, initialed. When this has boon done, even though it be later dis covered an error has been made, it may not be rectified save with the consent of both pairs at the table. 6 i 5. (mi rrif, 7; ; i'r.V. A? -i'.U.Al ! ; . - mi- i V r - 1 C I II . ISiW-' : : i 1 SZ'''' ' AVvii '"T" "Sy 5r-e iT Z-sar I ' 4 i '-v - -v? ' lli. -V X v, : ; ur . ; 1 li loe collar ailds tbo final touch of I daintiness. . .. ... ... inraprrjr ntm qune aumcient trim-1 KtrlkuiK detail of this prinic walk tr frock thut it tPiTipts oik to over ok the ijuh1I new and important iemlapttc-and-iimter.iieeve effect, hut "When this process has been com pleted at all tables, the East and West players at each table move to the next hlKher numbered table, as from 1 to 2, 2 to 3, etc, while the trays are moved in the opposite direction, or to the next lower numbered table, as from S to 2, 2 to 1, and so forth. The players at the lowest numbered table move to table No. 1, while the trays at table 1 are moved to the lowest numbered table. When the next set of trays is played, and scores recorded and checked as before, the next progression takes place, and the process is repeated until a complete round of the tables has been made, when It will be found that all the deals have been played, and that the North and South players, throughout have played the same hands; likewise the Kast and West players throughout. Averages are obtained by adding- the entire North and South and East and West scores separately, and dividing each total by the number of tables engaged. As is seen, each side has its own average. All players in excess of this average are so much plus: those who fall short, so much "minus." The North and South pair having the larg est net "plus" are the winners of the side; ditto, the East and West pair having- the largest net plus. When there is an even number of tables engaged in play the total num ber of hands is divided into two equal parts and one-half the number finished before the other half is started. When the east and west players get half way around in the progression they remain for another hand, or set of hands, as the case may be, at the table at which they find themselves, and then pas on to the next table. This makes them finish the first half with one table yet to play. When the second half of the game begins the east and west players move back to the table next following the one at which they played the double set and proceed as before. When they pet half way around the second time they find themselves at the table at which they did not play at all the first time, and as that Is where they now play a double set of hands before pass ing to the next table, when they get around the second time they have played an equal number of hands at each table. Scores are computed as above explained.' In "team auction," a very popular form at tournaments, in which teams of four, eight and at times larger num bers, usually a representation of dif ferent clubs, take part, the schedule is such that every member of a team plays with every other player rn equal number of times. As is quite general!- known, the Knickerbocker Whist Club of New Tork features duplicate garar and Is known as "the Home of Duplicate Auction. it is there .he gumj is played in all its pristine vigor, and In teresting hands kept and compared and discussed at future meetings for the benefit of all concerned. The Thurs day evening meetings of -he Knicker bocker Whist Clu' throughout the sea son, or from October to May, are the mecca of all lovers of duplicate, not only of the immediate locality, but of players from all over the country whenever in position to take advantage of them. The trays used at the beginning of the duplicate game were exce jingly primitive, but as the game grew in favor newer and better devices were constantly submitted, until finally the acme of perfection was reached , by Cassius M. I'aine in the compact, at tractive and durable trays which bear his name. There is nothing better on the market today. ... What is known as "progressive auction," the bete noir of the real auction player, but nevertheless a good form where mixed players, players of varying shades and conditions, as are usually found at social gatherings, are engaged, is played in a variety of ways, one way being as follows: A uniform number of deals, depend ng upon the number of tables taking part, is played at each table. Scores are Kept in tne usual manner, save that no value attaches to games or rubbers. At the completion of the deals the pair at each table whose score below the line totals the higher add 50 or 100 points, as has been pre viously agreed upon, to their total score and progress. At tne taDie at which they now find themselves they change partners and continue as be fore. A really better form for gather ings of this nature is to allow each table to play for the rubber before any progression takes place. ine nrsi table to complete the rubber announces the fact by some preconcerted signal. perhaps the striking of a belL When the signal is given, playing ceases at all tables, save those tables actually engaged in the play of a hand. (This does not refer to bidding.) The totals are then computed at each table, an extfa 2S points being allowed for game. Winners progress as before. HERE are the lrnple lines, the al mfwl plnin bHlic. the soft dra l)rv fit rnLirf tati.l lha v a rfe.-i thai typify the "little silk frock" t'l Spring. This d.ilntV nio'lcl I mjiie of gru) r.idiiim silk and a Kv-orfette in srlf-tone. The square Deck and rfr.-t!y plnin. f aM-n-ln-hark bfwlire. with It rather elaborate and Individual elfcte Is exrreil'ngly m-irt and up to the moment. A few silk buttons on coll.tr and sleeve and a tll of metal eFmhrol.lerv on the tunic Foulards are goiiiK to be In great favor and most women will feel delight In this, since no other Sunimrr silk has the combined drvxxy irnl practical fea tures of the excellent foulsrU. A new Ull foulard pattern, with conventional flowers Imposed on a novelty stripe de sign. Is shown In this practical and pretty frock for afternoon wear. The urpllce bodice, long sleeve and simple hut graceful skirt drapery are in ac cord wlih the present Ideals of dress. Still another variation Is for all ta bles to continue playing until every table has completed a rubber. This gives an advantage to the quicker Dlavers. as they are allowed to score The irav little shniililer cun. I. ich I us iiinnv rubbers as they are able to a strlkinir detail of this .Knrinir wm I ic. I nla v. They also score 1-a tor eacn Ing frock that it temuts one to over- came of an unfinished rubber and 1 look the equally new and important for each successful hand of an un- cnemlsctie-and-iimler.ileeve effect, hut finished game. all combine to give the costume a dig nified, quaint dlrectoire suxgestion. Tricot sera-e and satin are the materials and the chemisette, collar and under sleeves are of fine while organdy and lace. The satin cuff tied with a bow nvee h. U-rlat la u nr-,,.. . I .... i I .. i ... - . a. ricilj UriHll, ajlUl k r . v. - .. i .... permuting me undersleeve to show only in" part, is in teresting. I sir cjs , S f it 4 . - ' , ) I c)r' y V S ' . vt . i f- K , I :; - 'X V vv . III ni f t ' ' ; ftr - I , j,?fj ? h. .-3 r.. : , t-. ? i : I II f., i-Jr v. J ' . i - t- I If f aASe-,-c-.f V J Vr- , 'f,1 Hi . -SI .: A.' .''i i V, Mir ', A. TV 0 -V-C-: fy'- '' x - . .- , '';;r ' I 7j -zt . I' ' Ui?::i f'Y I rY 'i wit liy; Tiir. -r'. ' --7 IV; v. 1 .A.A; -.j -f.77 ' :;.--.SVvV "ill .r -5f. tv rONKORMAHLT to my statement of T. Mitchell, of Chicago, one of the laet Sunday. I begin my discussion bright swnd shining lights of the whist today with a description of dupll-1 Armament of a few years ago, and the rat auction when several tables are I leader of the duplicate whist movement engaged In play. A number of formalin America. The system was Intro- pply In such cases, but the simplest I "uced by him Into the Chicago Whist nd perhaps the most popular form l rht is jjnown ss "progressive .dupli cate." This l also spoken of n "com mk auction." from tne fart that the several players sit with their backs to the different points of the compart and are known as North and South and Kast and West players, respectively Club, and at once sprang Into univer sal favor. It was later adopted by the American Whist League and became a feature of Its annual congresses. According to this system the players, as already explained, range themselves ss North and South and Kast and West players, respectively, and all the North land South players play the same hands This system is the Invention of John I throughout; likewise the East and West players. The contest, therefore. Is not between a North and South and an Kast and West pair, but between the North and South players throughout and the Kast and West players through out. Any number of tables from two on may engage In the contest. In any case the number of hands which it is decided to play is divided equally among the number of tables engaged In play, and the quota st each table Is played before any progrexsion takes place. For instance, if nine tables are engaged in play, and it is decided to play Z7 deals, three trays are placed at each table: If 13 tables take part, and it is decided to play 26 deals, two trays are placed at each table, it Is usual to place the trays In regular numerical order, as trays 1, : and 3 st table 1: 4. & and 6 at table 2. etc The arrows on the boards In play must point north before a card is removed from the tray ... It should here he explained that the order of progression varies somewhat Knitted Garments Needed Here Not Abroad. Soldiers Always Xeed Socks, bnt Wristlets Are I ed to lleaa Boots. HE looped-up drapery at the back may be meant to suggest wide apron strings for the panel apron at the front of the frock; and again it may be a modified bustle effect. Either way the lines are distinctly charming and simple and demure, as most frocks insist that their lines shall be Just now. Pale gray taffeta silk is the frock material, with flowing sleeves of pale gray silk crepe. Touches of em broidery on the "apron" give the stamp of individuality. Paris Insists on loose, easy lines andi softly draped materials. Jo tight fit and no pronounced flare: that is t!ie Pari.i dictum for Spring. Both of these smart afternoon costumes are of chif fon draped over satin foundations and both are trimmed with bead embroid ery. The sleeves of the darker frock are particularly interesting: the oblique bodice opening in the lighter model. One frock is of dark blue chif fon with self-tone embroidery: the otlier of bisque chiffon over black with blue, white and black beading. ... In the cool, refined color harmony of pearl gray and dark blue Is this froci for afternoon reception wear: Chiffor and more chiffon, insists raris, and il this instance the couturier has evolve a new way to add chirfon in a raptivat ing jumper which starts out by beinii a shoulder scarf, but ends by altachinn itself to a back panel of the clufTot hodice and thence rontinulns- down ward to make a looped-up flounce or the skirt. Like, most of the Spring sleeves, these have loose and flowing "1 linc.-t. weeks ago during the acute cold spell. There were 600 sweaters at the head quarters destined for France, and be cause of official red tape these could not be released for home use. The suggestion that socks and not wristlets, helmets and mufflers be set up on busy fejninine knitting needles from now on seems a good one. A soldier can wear but one sweater and one muffler, but he needs any number of socks. Just as his sister at home can get along with a single sweater, but his belated Christmas I musl "ae ,f ui'iJ i ..- mgs. x.ei 11 De sucks vy ait means. Socks are far more fascinating to knit, as everyone who has made them acknowledges, than any other sort of knitted wear. It is a bit harder to learn how to do them, but If they are what the soldiers need and want, by all means let every woman tackle the intricate sock directions and the man agement of several needles with a will. NEW YORK. Jan. 26. (Special.) In a recent letter from the front In France a young Lieutenant of avia tion writes to his mother: "More and more sweaters, mufflers and wristlets are arriving every day. One of the boys, opening package yesterday,' exclaimed: " -Y Hods! another pair of wristlets. Now I have something to clean my gun with.' If the dear ladies persist in sending us knitted things (of which we have already a surplus supply) let them send socks. Every chap needs socks, but wristlets are a drug on the market. They are being used to clean boots and gloves with." In the face of the constant appeals for warm knitted garments from l.iost of the camps In America, this over loading of the soldiers abroad with knitted wearables does seem a la mentable waste of energy and material. A New Jersey Red Cross headquar ters was begged to sup-)ly sweaters to a New Jersey cantonment a few Hotel Chefs Make War Cake. Food conservation is having concrete results as practiced by the big- New Tork hotels and many are the surprises concocted by the ingenious chefs. "Oscar" of the Waldorf has produced "war cake a la Waldorf," which, al though economical in that it requires no ee-gs or butter, is nevertheless tasty. It made a great hit when it was served at the recent "war dinner" of the Fifth Avenue Association. The recipe is as follows: Two cups of brown sugar. Two cups of hot water. . Two tablespoonfuls of lard. One package of raisins. One teaspoonful of salt. One teaspoonfull of ground cinnamon. One teaspoonful of ground cloves. Boil all ingredients for five minutes after they begin to bubble and when cold add the following: ' Three cups of flour. One teaspoonful of baking soda dis solved in one teaspoonful of hot water. Bake in two loaves for 45' minutes in a slow oven. This cake improves if allowed to ripen for three or four days. know more than half of them?" de manded the lawyer. "Why if it comes to that. I'm wilfing to swear that I know more than all of them put toirether." For Skins Affected by Winds and Weather Some Witness. St. Ixiuis Republic. The prosecuting attorney had en countered a somewhat difficult wit ness. Finally he asked the man If he was acquainted with any of the men on the jury. "Yes, sir," announced the witness, "more than half of them." "Are you willing to swear that you This is the season when she who woulrl have a spotless, lily-white, satiny complexion should turn her thoughts to mercollzed wax. the firm friend of the winter girl. Nothing so effectually overcomes the despoiling effects of piercing winds and biting cold temper atures. The wax literally absorbs the chapped, reddened or coarsened cuticle, bringing forth a brand new skin, clear, soft and girlishly beautiful. An ounces of mercolized wax, obtainable at any drugstore, applied nighily like cold cream, and washed off mornings, will gradually improve the worst complex ion. She who coddles herself all day In an overheated house and finds her skin flushed and flabby as a consequence, I I can quickly freshen up for the evningl by just bathing her face in a lotion made by dissolving an ounce of pow dered saxolite in a half pint wiich hazef." She'll find this most ref rsiinir. lit smooths out wrinkles and draws In tin saggy lissue.-i-Adv.