TIIE " SUNDAY OREGOXIAN, PORTLAND, JANUARY 13, 1918.
CHARMING HAT OF GOLDEN-HUED STRAW
CONSPICUOUS AMONG STYLES FOR SPRING
Decorations of ricaaing Creation Carry Out Color Scheme; Four Pin Thrust Through Flaming Ribbon Provide
Entirely New Effect; Velvet of Parma Violet Shade Forma Unusual Trimming- for Leghorn of New Model. ,
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a. v - . x h
. - . I . J lift X J I H
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them In ruffing, thus insuring- tricks
which otherwise your side - would be
unable to make? Unless you have this
ability your trumps will simply be "a
drug on the market" and fall to your
partner's lead. To be sure, the more
trumps you hold, the fewer, of neces
sity, the adversaries will hold, and
while this Is a consideration not to be
ignored. It in no sense Justifies a raise
not warranted by the considerations
above mentioned.
In spite of these plainly stated and
common-sense rules, as above stated,
some players are so obsessed with their
own egotism and the soundness of
their Individual Judgment that they are
constantly ignoring them. Especially
is this so if the suit happens to Insure
a high honor score. A certain cl&ss of
players invariably bid under such con
ditlons, tflough the rest of the hand be
an absolute blank. They apparently
overlook the Important fact that, one
under-trick will appreciably minimize
the value of their honors, and that two
such tricks will more than offset the
highest honor .score which a declared
trump can possibly insure, or 90.
Chance Upsets Rnlea.
If by some happy chance such play
ers find their partners with good side
suit strength they at times come off
with flying colors. This is one of the
most regrettable features of the entire
proceeding, as they become impressed
more than ever with the superiority
of their Judgment over book rules and
conventions and continue to employ
their happy-go-lucky methods at" any
and all times, regardless of the fact
that absolute failure is more often than
not the direct result, and that such
bidding militates against the high
character of the game.
The following hand serves as a good
Illustration of this point:
J9
J 10 4
, 10 8 I
Q87B4
VA74S2 T f KtU
A A B KQT63
KQSI2 Z AS
J ii
V Q 10
. SSi
.J 7 4
A K J 10
Z, the dealer, was fully inn that
he should not bid a suit on trumps
alone, yet an 81-point honor score was
too alluring to withstand, so he bid
one spade." A would have been glad
to bid no trumps, but, being without
protection in spades, was unable to do
so, and so cflled "two diamonds."
T's hand is hopelessly weak. She
holds nothing but her five spades. She
lacks even the ability to ruff -a suit
until the third round. Absolute silence
Is unquestionably her policy, but the
fact that she holds five of the suit her
partner has bid, spades, is apparently
too much for her and she calls "two
spades."
Honor Score Is Trged
B, as well as A, would like to have
bid no trumps, but is deterred by the
fact that she has no protection in the
adverse suit, spades. She would have
no object In' shifting to 'clubs, -a suit
of no higher value than 'diamonds
(which her partner has bid), and, be
sides, there . is no assurance that her
partner ,could help her, at clubs, while
she has ace and one small of her part
ner's suit. She, therefore, goes to "three
diamonds. - -
Z. encouraged by his partner's raise.
and still obsessed by the fact that he
will score 81 points for honors, goes to
'.'three spades." If he counts all his
spades as tricks (and there is no as
surance that one of them may not fall
to the queen) he has only five winning
tricks in his band; therefore, eight los
lng ones. In the face of this he wildly
contracts to take nine tricks, evidently
depending upon his partner for nearly
half, or four of them. Unquestionably
he should have left the case for his
partner to decide, who, knowing her
own strength, or lack of strength, as
the case may be, and at least the mini
mum strength the original " bid was
supposed to indicate, was decidedly In
much better position to do so. Had
Z done this Y would have passed, as
she should have done in the first in
stance, and the hand would have been
played at "three diamonds." A. and B
would have scored a little slam, 'this,
with 14 for honors, and 125, the rec
ognized value of a game, giving them
a total of 231.
While this, to be sure, would have
been somewhat disconcerting to Z and
T, it would have been far better for
them than what in reality did happen.
When Z said "three spades" A doubled.
He counted that each of his two aces
would take a trick; also that he would
take at least one trick In . diamonds.
His partner had given him a raise, and
if she could win .two tricks, which was
not unreasonable to suppose, the suc
cess of the double was assured.
The three players pass and the hand
la played at "three , spades," doubled.
Z 'and T make the only tricks their
hands assured, their five trumps, and
A and B score 400 points, - less the
fatuous and unduly valued honor .score,
81; in all, 319. Had Z been discreet in
the first place and "passed . A would
have called "no trumps," at which bid
the hand would have been played. Y
would have led her fourth best spade
and . she and her partner would have
made five spade tricks before A. could
have gotten in. ' A and B. therefore,
would have scored simply 20 for trlclrs
and 30 for honors, or SO. This, in com
parison with 319, what they in reality
did make, all because of their adver
saries' woeful lack of Judgment, would
have been a mere bagatelle.
Decorative . Possibilities : of
Linoleum Great.
IilTinf-Roomi and Halls May .Be.
Hade Wonderfully Attractive by
le of Material Now Beginning
to Win Deserved Recognition.
iTX wish the dining-room had a
J, ardwood floor and paneling, and a
dome chandelier like those smart din
ing-rooms in city apartments," sighed
PRICES ADVANCE
ON AND AFTER
MONDAY; FEBRUARY 4
ON THESE MODELS t -
WAHillrlift Noi.S53.554.5S5.55S,'B7iMlSB8 C00
Self-Redacmg
I 405
prioa now S4-50 iriil
; BUY NOW AND SA VEl
tf rfvl
II ! Wf n I n 1 eJ
-sTvir I tTI LK "fit as you fasten- WxljJgS
- Tii!Oll' Gtmum "UN BROKEN LINE" at Fuifaa VV lfx
if ilT l.f 0 All Gd SMr-Virl.o Ma4th- 1 1
into 'the suburbs' and had selected a
cosy old-fashioned house because of its
pleasant garden and grounds.
Her husband . regarded .the square.
spaoious dining-room, papered from
floor to ceiling in nondescript light tan
and with bare board floor evidently
intended to be hidden under carpet.
What, with war taxes and war prices
and other perplexities of wartime, it
was impossible, he admitted, to put
paneling and hardwood flooring in that
dining-room to say nothing of a more
or.- less expensive glass dome, chan
delier.
But we at least can repaper." he de
cided, "and I'll paint the floor so our
blue dining-room rug will have a prop
er background.
But the little woman still was dream
ing of hardwood and paneling. She set
her wits to work, and this is what she
achieved: 1
Over the bare floor was put -one of
the new linoleums in hardwood pattern
place and painted to match the wood
work of the room, a dark mission oak
Above the plate rail the wall was pa
pered with soft blue cartridge paper to
match the blue rug.
Unless you could see that dining
room with your own eyes, v you could
scarcely imagine how very good and
entirely satisfactory was the finished
effect.
Most people think of linoleum as
something in green and tan or bluo
squares, for kitchen or bathroom. The
possibilities of .the. hardwood patterns
for living-rooms and halls are only be
ginning to be appreciated.
As for what the little woman did to
that- old-fashioned chandelier well
that Is another story which you will
hear some other, time. .
Assuming that the great war- will
come to an, end this Winter, its total
cost is figured at 3145,000,000,000, of
which - Germany and Britain ' each.
and . the linoleum was carefully fitted j would bear 330,000,000.000, France $25,-
and matched on the wall as far up as I 000,000,000, Austria $13,000,000,000 and
the' little woman' who had moved, out the plate rail, , the latter being set in the United States $20,000,000,000.
PRACTICAL INSTRUCTIONS FOR FANCY NEEDLEWORK
tX. Is not gold that glitter, though
this now Spring hat comes Dear
to being ao. It Is made of gold-
colored lacquer straw and gold-colored
arroegraln ribbon with four prns of dull
gold and flam enamel poised at dar
ing angles.
The extremely wide ribbon la set trp
rlght arouad the crown, rising an inch
above It, and la held to the brim by a
strand or two of the lacquer straw.
The four pins are thrust through the
ribbon, two at each side of the bat. In
aa entirely new effect.
o
Nowadays on wears a straw hat or
wot as on chooses to Indicate that
Epring Is sJich. The style of the hat is
the thing, not Its material.
Obvloujly new and Spring-like In
ajty: Is this slant-brimmed round hat.
which would be a perfect Imitation of
a uniform cap If the brim slanted In
front only and not all the way around.
The . crown is made of overlapping
strips of gray moire ribbon, the brim
and trimming band of navy blue satin.
A Chinese bead or two swing from gray
chenille cords across the crown.
see
Velvet Is an unusual trimming for a
Leghorn, that la. velvet used alone.
But the effect Is decidedly smart when
the Leghorn Is ofthe flexible, natural
colored type, and the velvet In Parma
violet shade like this hat for south'
land wear.
A 'blndiag of the violet velvet fin.
Uned the wide, slightly drooping brim
and an upright fold of velvet weights
down the brim from Its upper edge. An
other fold of velvet, with a flat bow
at one side locate- (he exact height of
the crown.
Kf(lPIBiPiB
8. owing to a typographical error.
the letter I published last week
from Mr. Work relative to his ef
forts regarding auction, in the Interest
f the Red Cross, was transposed, and
soy readers thereby may have failed to
a-rasp Its full significance. I give It
again today. I particularly wish, not
only the auction players of the com
munity, bat the public generally, to
know of the remarkable success which
Is attending Mr. Work's efforts, that
they may be brought to rtallse that
auction, as all things else, can well
aubeerve the Interests wb.ch at the
present time are each and every In
dividual's chief consideration.
Mr. Work, be It understood. Is de
voting his time and talents and ener
gies to this work without the slightest
remuneration, be even paying the ex
penses of his trip, and all expenses In
cident thereto, out of bis own pocket:
PHILADELPHIA. Dm. s. I1T Dr
Miae Sbeibr: 1 have d(inlt:y decided set
te 1lt the Cout. Mr rm l
eocceefui aerv taat It would be a crime
Sere, hre m&l.rla 1 fund u uaurvd. end
te take cbeacee fains nnywbwr :e. 1
will. terrore. after three months la th
aiid41e Wet sad one la the houch. rvtura
bore for April, ae I mm aoourod approll
!! 14 cmii daring April, la late city
ad "w Tore, st pr clue.
So Cat 1 Save beoo moot euccaefut. Last
SrtCht wee the b-t I hmr hod rt. tho
Morraatlle C'nk of this clir ralolne a fond
ef S.'ouw voile ploylns the Hod Crooo Hoada.
My total, to Soto. exceeds lll.Ooo.
Toe Kande bove proved vory intorootlng
nd popuiax. If yo think Too could ct a
tournament ef ear sue toother to pla
thorn. I can arras ce to ooad yxa a copy
ef the Hands. I nnmi yon will hr ao
eVfficeltr la getting duplicate boards from
mo et the oh let cluoo. Voure v-ry na
arely. MILTON C WORK.
Walla t I difficult to say -alwaya"
and "never" regarding any rule or line
f play In auction, "always." meaning
"nearly always." and "never." -meaning
"hardly ever." there are. nevertheless,
one or two rules which. It may be
safely said, admit of no exceptions and
axe lire re fore absolute.
ems Rnlea Imperative.
Among these are the rules never to
bid ao trumps or to Increase your own
r your partner's bid of no trumps If
the adversary has shown a suit In which
yon have no protection. By protection
is meant the ability to take one or
more tricks In the suit. The soundness
f these rules Is so apparent that they
would seem to require no elab
oration, Xet thsre are so cue players
whose respect for their own opinion
is so far In excess of their respect for
the authorities that even these rules
are at times broken, generally. I ara
happy to say, with results disastrous
to themselves, the players so bidding.
This, however. Is not the particular
point ltls my Intention today to con
sider, but that other and well-known
rule, never to make a first-round bid
on trump strength alona. and Its col
lateral, never to raise your partner's
bid on trump strength alone. These
rules are given variously by different
authors, but In each case the sum and
substance Is Identically the same.
Work gives It as follows: "A first
round bid calls for five or more cards
In the suit, with ace or king and one
other honor in the suit, plus another
suit, long or short, headed by ace. or
king, queen.
Alias Irwin state It thus: ."A first
round bid requires five or more cards
in the suit, with ace or king at tbe top,
and at least ons other quick trick In
bees .ei'Ofl band."
The only time perhaps wnen ontside
strength Is not an absolute require
ment to a first-round bid (and even this
la not sanctioned by all authorities) la
when .the suit contains eight or more
cards, with. of course, tbe required
high card at -the top. and there la
shortness la some other suit. This lat
ter stipulation seems almost super
fluous, as with a holding, of eight or
more In one suit, one or more of the
remaining suits are necessarily short.
Still, strictly speaking. It refers to a
blank suit or a singleton, and means
the ability, therefore, to trump on the
first or second round of a suit.
Tram pa Alone) Dnngeroaa.
The rule with regard to the partner's
raise Is equally direct and absolute. If
anything .more so. It may be atated
as follows:
"Never raise your partner's suit bid
on trump strength alone." While a cer
tain trump holding Is essential to the
raise, say. at leaat two thla Insuring
the majority to the aide you must
have one or more tricks In one or mora
side suits, or you must have the abil
ity to ruff a suit In order to Justify
the raise. Ruffing, aa In the case pre
viously explained, applies to the first
or second round of the suit. Lacking
these qualifications you should never
raise, no matter how many trumps
your hand may Include. If you give
the subject a moment's thought, of
what possible use would four or more
trumps be to yea IX you couid not us
ti if ife tit ir s
111 'f'-l 1 W0iMB$m0M$$ I
tr-Hrsx Mv MmmMt I
I NjaaS,;, tf pmyiiZuJ"''--4 :Vi era rJ - jftmssAaiia:.
.l"l!".l'-.J;Vl'"yl5.rf .. . .. l.lMMf,n r-ri-'-i
ppHERB Is - a training -camp - near
I Chicago where 250 mechanics and
engineers are quartered. Among
these men there are only four sweaters.
There Is anotber training camp, not
far away, where the men were ordered
on a hike one cold day recently. Out of
the company of 2S0 men a Lieutenant
and 60 men came back to barracks with
their ears frozen. Both these stories
are true.
What are you doing to prevent such
Incredible negligence being shown our
men? Aro you knitting? The Red
Cross gives tbe clearest explanations
of how best to make the things that
should be supplied. Below are tbe
Red Cross Instructions for the new
sweater and the trench cap:
Use khaki-colored or dark gray yarn
for soldiers and marines; dark gray for
sailor Use No. 6 needles for sweater;
INo. 1 needles for trench cap.
' DlrecUona for aleevpleaa' jackeXs; ' ,
One-half pound ' of yarn.
Cast on 80 stitches; knit two, purl
two for four Inches, and then add one
stitch after every fifth stitch until
there are 96 stitches. From this point
knit every stitch on right side. On
wrong side slip one, purl one, slip one.
purl one, all tbe way across..
line- front, casting on four stitches on round. Knit four rows plain. Continue
each side at end of armhole. in this way, narrowing on every fifth
When back is 19 inches long, bind round and reducing number of stitches
off every sixth stitch, reducing num- rbetween narrowing stitches by two (as
ber of stitches to. original eighty. Knit
two, purl two for four inches. Sew up
sides '-to point where notch for arm
hole begins. Finish neck with single
When sweater Is 14 inches long bind crochet and buttonhole arm hole for two
on last four stitches on each side to
reduce width at armhole. Then knit
plain first and last six atitches on each
row for border around armhole.
When sweater Is 21 inches long knit
plain for two inches. Knit 32 stitches,
bind off 24 for neck very loosely. Knit
32. Knit back and forth on last 32
stitches, allowing aix ribs for shoulder.
(Be sure to stop on inside edge.) Break
off thread and knit six ribs on other
shoulder. Cast on 24 stitches on same
needle and fasten the thread to thread
of first shoulder. Continue plain knit-v
tin tw two tnebfes. Xbea aiaka bag It .
inches from each side of seam, or fin
ish entire arm hole with One .row of
single crochet. -
Directions for trench cap.
Cast on loosely on three needles 112
stitches. 40-36-36.
Knit two, purl two for six. Inches,
knit one round plain. . . , -
Knit two stitches together, knit
eleven, knit two stitches together; knit
one. Repeat to end of round. , Knit
four rows plain. Then knit two
stitches together, knit nine,.. knit, two
tp.te.Ui4i, luut ao.9. .iiepeat -to- end -of,
seven, five, three, etc.) until you have
twenty-eight, stitches left on needles.
Divide on two needles, having fourteen
on . one needle and fourteen on the
other. . .
Break off wool thread length and
use darning needle.
Holding the knitting needles together
with "front" needle next to you, wool
at right end of "back" needle, you Are
now ready to finish the cap.
With wool always under knitting
needle and at right of darning needle,
slip darning needle through the first
front stitch in the position' of knitting
and slip stitch off the knitting needle.
Slip darning needle through second
front stitch in the .position of. purling
and leave. eUtUi on tuo JuuUwg needle,
making a prepared stitch. Draw woo)
close as in knitting.
Slip darning needle through first
back stitch as in purling and slip stitch
off knitting needle. Slip darning needle
through second back stitch, as in knit
ting, and leave stitch on knitting needle
as a prepared stitch.
Now slip darning needle through sec
ond front stitch in position of knitting
and slip stitch off knitting needle. Slip
darning needle through third front
stitch in position of purling to prepare.
Purl second back stitch, slip It off
knitting needle and knit third back
stitch to prepare.
Continue until all stitches are slipped
off and then weave thread lengthwise
through the cap for four inches. Also
thread the length of wool at beginning
of cap and weave it lengthwise. This
cap -may -he -drawn over the ears or
roil bafik, covering. only too, of Hue. bead,