THE ' SUNDAY OltEGOXIAN, PO RTLi AXD, DECE3IBER 2, 1917.
four honors in " one hand, 72,- and, it
being the rubber game, the rubber
bonus, 250. Still, as it developed, the
fault was not entirely Y's, as if Z had
not made an error regarding dummy's
discards, they still could have retrieved
themselves and gone game.
The play involves some quite Inter
esting situations, and I give it in full:
MODERN FEATHER FANS WITH THREE LONG
UNCURLED OSTRICH PLUMES ADD TO BEAUTY
By No Means "Vain as a Peacock" Is Wielder of Peacock Fan; She Is Merely Very Modish and Up to Date Fans
for Theater and Restaurant Use Are Pretty Little Affairs Which Fold Up and Fit in Bag.
BEWITCHING, DAINTY FANS ENHANCE BEAUTY
OF ANY WOMAN; EAGLE FEATHERS SMART
Debutante's Lacey Affair, Not Made to Stir Breeze, Is Weapon for Coquette; Soft Pale Yellow Feather Fan,
With Wide Spread, Adds to Charm of Brunette Type.
Trick. A Y B Z
1 4 9 Q A
3 4 6 , 9
S. 24 5o 7 84'
4 64 10 A4 2
5 K 104 8 J
6... 10V J 3 2
7 "v: 6 VJ4 6 7
8 9 i 34 A4
9 K 3 " 4 84
10 J 4 . 2 A
11 6 Ko . 74 Q4
12 6 7 - Q 6
13 8 10 K 9
Denotes winner of trick.
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THERE are two prime instruments
of flirfation which femininity
knows how to wield instinctively
without a lesson. One is the fan, the
other the parasol, and here is a fan
that partakes of the nature of both.
It is one of the very modern feather
fans with three long uncurled ostrich
plumes mounted on a handle, or "stick."
of imitation ivory. ' At the end of the
handle is a bracelet by means of which
the fan may be carried at the wrist if
desired. This fan is in shades of blue
and accompanies a dance frock of blue
and silver tulle.
By no means "vain as a peacock" is
the wielder of a peacock fan; she is
merely very modish and up to date and
most probably she is a young matron
who adores dashing and rather daring
effects that would not be permitted a
debutante. The vivid, iridescent col
oring of the peacock feathers make;
such a fan harmonious with almost any
type of evening gown. This handsome
fan, with its blue and green and silver
shimmer, is the only note of color in a
spangled white dinner costume.
Fans for theater and restaurant use
are pretty little affairs of spangled net
which fold up fiat and gt in the theater
bag along with the opera glasses and
other belongings. A very dainty fan
of the sort is of dawn pink Bilk gauze
spangled in silver and edged with Hon
iton point. The sticks are of carved
Hniil
HAVING dwelt at more or less
length upon the value of the
overcall or take-out, and the
conditions under which it should be
made, I give today a few concrete ex
amples in illustration of the same.
A player has called no trumps, his
left-hand adversary has passed and his
partner holds, we will say, hearts 10. 7,
4, 3; clubs, jack, 10; diamonds, queen;
spades, 9. S, 6, 5, 3, 2. Before the day
of take-outs he would have' had no
means of informing his partner, the
no-trump bidder, as to his special hold
ing, and the hand doubtless would have
been played at no trumps with ex
tremely bad results. As it is he makes
the overcall of "two spades." Whether
his hand has generaH strength or weak
ness the partner cannot determine, but
what he does know is that he holds a
certain minimum strength in spades,
the suit he has called. Guided by this
inference and knowing that, as a rule,
a hand scores as well or better at a
major suit than at no trumps, he is
in position intelligently to determine
his future course; that is, whether to
let the overcall stand or persist in his
no trump.
Another example: Third player's
holding Is hearts, queen, jack, 10; clubs,
king, 10; diamcid.s, ace, king; spades,
9, 8, 6, 5, 3, 2. Here there is excellent
help for a no-trumper, but the rule
is absolute and admits of few. if any,
exceptions. It reads thus: Take your
partner out of no trumps with a major
suit when you hold five or more cards
in the suit without regard to the size
of the cards or the rest of the hand.
Again, therefore, "two spades" should
be called.
Still another example: The holding
in this case is hearts 7; clubs, jack,
4. ?: diamonds. 9, 8. 6, 2; spades, ace,
king, jack, 7, 4. This hand holds de
cided strength in spades, but no help
otherwise for the no trump. "Two
spades" should be called.
Again: Third player holds " hearts
ace; clubs, queen. 7, 3; diamonds, king,
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wood tinted with pale pink to match tie theater fan, its possessor can make
the fan. Though there is nothing im- I it express a number of fascinating fem
pressive or distinguished about the lit- I inine moods.
queen, 5, 4; spades, ace, king, jack,
7, 4. An ideal hand as a no-trump as
sist, but, as it contains five spades,
I'two spades" should be called.
Concrete Example Shown.
Let .us .go back to the first and -third
examples, substituting spades for a
minor suit, diamonds or clubs, and the
minor suit for spades. The first hold
ing would be as follows: Hearts. 10, 7.
4. 3; clubs, jack, 10; diamonds (we will
say), 9, 8, 6, 5, S, 2; spades, queen.
The other: Hearts, 7; clubs, jack, 4, 3;
diamonds, ace. king, jack, 7, 4; spades.
9, 8, 6. 2. Both of these hands are
without help for a no-trumper. but
they contain the requisite strength in
diamonds to justify the overcall, so
"two diamonds" should be called.
Now, let us go back to the second
and fourth examples, again substitut
ing spades for diamonds and diamonds
for spades. One of these hands would
be: Hearts, queen, jack, 10; clubs, king,
10; diantonds. 9, 8, 6, 5, 3, 2; spades,
ace. king. The other: Hearts, ace;
clubs, queen, 7. 3; diamonds, ace, king,
jack, 7, 4; spades, king, queen, 5, 4.
In both cases there is decided help
for the no-trumper, therefore no over
call should be made, notwithstanding
that the diamond suit possesses the
strength requisite to the overcall. The
no-trump bid possessing a value con
siderably in excess of a minor suit,
such hands should be used as no-trump
assists. Two conditions are necessary
to the overcall in a minor suit lack of
help for a no trump and a certain
minimum strength in the suit named.
The overcall in a major suit is made
when holding five or more cards of
the suit, regardless of tha rest of the
hand, whether it be strong or weak.
Try and get the distinction.
Let us take the following: Third
hand holds, we will say, hearts 10, 7,
4, 3; clubs, jack, 10; diamonds, 8. 6, 5.
3. 2; spades, queen, 9. The hand is
absolutely without help for a no
trumper, nevertheless the diamonds
are too weak to justify the overcall
and none should be made. Substitute
an honor for one of the small dia
4, TJ'iirijfcrtfriWfltiniflir'r,rf'Tfti'iiT-i-
monds, and "two diamonds" should be
called.
Another example: Hearts. 10, 7. 4, 3;
clubs, queen; diamonds, jack. 10, 3, 2;
spades, 9, 8, B, 5. The hand could
hardly be worse as a no-trump assist,
yet the holder has no redress, and, for
all he can do", the no-trump bid must
stand.
Suit I KualJr Prevails.
When the overcall is made, espe
cially, when made in a major suit, it
is iuite likely the no-trump bid will
oe abandoned and the suit will stand.
It must therefore possess sufficient
strength to promise at least fairly
good results in case this happens, or
it should not be made. In the case
Just given, as loss seems inevitable, it
is better that the hand be played at a
one-trick contract, which the no trump
calls for. than at the , two-trick con
tract which the overcall would neces
sarily entail. As is seen, cases can easily
arise where a band is too weak to jus
tify the overcall and where calm ac
ceptance of defeat rather than an ef
fort . to thwart, it by running into
greater danger still is decidedly the
better policy.
The following hand illustrates the
folly of not making the overcall when
one's hand not only justifies its being
done, but absolutely demands it:
, 9
10 7 4 3
J 10-
K Q.J 10
5 4
" Q 8 5
K Q 2
7 4 3
A 7 6
K 10 H
J 8 6 5
K 9 6 2
3
A J 7 2
A 9
A Q 8 5
9 8 2
Z, the dealer, having three suits pro
tected, bid no trumps. A passes; like
wise Y and B. Why Y, with such an
exceptional holding in spades, six to
four honors (this of itself insuring- an
nonor score oi z and no help other
wise for a no-trumper, should pass can
only be attributed to complete igno
rance of, or utter indifference to. the
inherent principles of the game. How
ever, the hand was played at no
trumps, with the result that Z-Y scored
two by cards, 20. and 30 for honors.
In all "50. At spades they would easily
have scored 358 four by cards. 36;
Heart Are Ied.
Trick 1 A, having three suits of
four cards each, each headed by a sin
gle hinor, is in some doubt as to his
lead, but finally decides upon hearts.
Z wins the trick and at
Tricks 2. 3 and 4 leads his partner's
suit, spades. Y, who sees dummy Is
without visible re-entry, wisely holds
up the command of the suit until third
round, when all, save dummy's, are
exhausted.
Trick . 5 Y returns the 8 of hearts,
the highest he holds of his partner's
suit; taken by A with king, Z having
put up jack. A. at
Trick 6. leads the 10 of hearts, the
best, and at
Trick 7 leads his remaining heart,
both with the desire to place the lead
and thinking it an even chance that
his partner holds the command. .
Trick 8 Z. who is again in the lead,
now sees that in discarding dummy's
10 of diamonds on trick 5 he made a
serious mistake. Having discarded the
10, it was all right to discard the jack
on the next round. The mistake was in
discarding the diamonds at all. Had
he not done so, but discarded rather
from clubs, he could easily have made
the dummy's jack of diamonds a card
of re-entry, and the spades would have
been brought in. He would simply
have led his 8 of diamonds, on which,
if left-hand adversary had not put up
the king, he would have played dum
my's 10. This would have held the
trick, thus enabling him to make his
spades of forced the king. In this
event Z would have recovered the lead
on the next round and led another
small diamond, putting dummy In with
jack. Z was actuated in his diamond
discard by the desire to keep dummy's
clubs intact, as he himself could offer
so little protection in the suit. As it
is. the better to establish the diamonds
in his own hand, he leads the diamond
ace and follows, at
Trick 9, with the eight of diamonds.
Recovering the lead at
Trick 10, he makes his queen and
five of diamonds, and the thirteenth
trick goes to B. with king of clubs.
Inch Cut From Tablecloth
Lengthens Life.
Small Strip Taken From Each of
Two Sides Will Brine Crease
Made by Laniirnw. Who Always
Koldx End to End. In Mew Place.
AN inch off one side of a large
tablecloth matters very little when
the cloth is spread on the table; and
the pattern in the damask need not be
pulled to one side, since the slight dis
crepancy of length in the part of the
cloth that hangs over the edge will
never be noticed. But thatnch makes
all the difference in the world in the
life of the cloth. Before the threads
begin to wear thin as they always do
in time where a tablecloth is folded and
creased in the ironing cut off an inch
at one side, and at one end, and re
hem the cloth. The .laundress, who al
ways folds a cloth evenly. edge to
edge, will now make an entirely new
series of folds and creases with her
iron and the tablecloth will last Just
that much longer.
Quilted Petticoats of Crepe
de Chine Popular.
Glovrskln Cloth frocks Mow the
Rase In Paris Hnbbed Hair Ef
fect ' I sed Extensively In Siew
York After Beinnr Introduced by
Molla UJnrstedt.
UIDER frocks of black velvet Pequin
is using quilted petticoats of white
crepe de chine a charmingly quaint,
old-fashioned effect to be sure. Of
course.'the velvet skirt is slashed gen
erously to reveal the presence of the
quilted pett-oat one such skirt hang
ing in loose panels over the white pet
ticoat of quilted crepe. Another cou
turier uses white satin as a lining for
velvet draperies, looping the velvet in
such manner' that the white shows in
glimpses here and there.
Gloveskln cloth frocks are extremely
popular in Paris this Winter. They are
made very simply, with almost no.
New Boudoir Caps Worn to
Fit High Coiffure.
Hair Is Mow Ileitis Done II lit B After
Krench Kaxhlon, With Soft Knot
Airily and Klufflly Piled on Head.
WHEN milady rests among the cush
ions of her chaise longue between
social engagements she wears her bou
doir cap so that the beautifully waved
and netted structure of her coiffure may
not be disarranged. Just now the hair
is being done high, after the French
fashion, the soft knot so airy and fluffy
that it appears to be loosely and lightly
piled on the head in the most careless
manner possible. But adroitly placed
hairpins and an invisible net holds it
firmly in place, nevertheless. This rest
cap is made of white crepe de chine and
lace insertions, with a frill of plisse net
below the ribbon-run casing that fits
around the head. Little tucks in the
crepe de chine where it joins the lace
insertion add a pretty touch of ornamentation.
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I Boudoir Capa fit High Coiffure. I
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KAN and two eyes above
What more efficacious instru
ment for the bewitchment of
man? This particular instrument is of
exquisite point lace, mounted on sticks
of mother o' pearl a debutante's dainty
fan. not calculated to give an extraor
dinary amount of breeze, but unsur
passed as a weapon of coquetry. Such
a fan. of course, will accompany a love
ly white frock, touched perhaps with
the glint of silver lace.
With her head against the soft
fluffiness of a feather fan any woman
looks prettier than she really is par
ticularly if the color of the fan is
chosen to set off her complexion; hair
and eyes. This pale yellow fan makes
an enchanting background for a dark
haired and dark-eyed woman: and so
great is the spread of the fan that
one doubts not many a flirtation is
carried on behind its sheltering wing.
trimming at all. the richness of the
fabric offering the distinctive quality.
A model in doeskin colored gloveskin
cloth Is trimmed -with beaver and is
accompanied by a smart black' velvet
hat. A pearl gray model may be ac
companied by black fox furs;" a mid
night blue gloveskin costume is most
lovely with chinchilla.
A stranger in Manhattan might con
clude that all the young women had
had their hair bobbed this season to
give a more boyish look with military
costumes. But after one has noted the
same pretty maid with apparently
bobbed tresses of a morning, and a
beautifully waved and high-piled coif
fure at dinner hour. the conviction
comes that this new hair dressing is
achieved in some other manner than
by use of clipping shears. As a matter
of fact, the hair is not cut at all. but
is rolled under at the level of the ears
and then covered with a net. Miss Molla
Bjurstedt, the famous tennis player,
wore her hair this way all last Sum
mer and the bobbed effect was attrac
tively neat, becoming and business
like as she flitted about the court.
Embroidery Hoop Helps in
Removing Stains.
Kitted Over Spot In Tablecloth,
Wooden Rings Prevent Scalding
of Hands as Hot Water Is I'onred
ThrouKh Linen.
COFFEE and fruit stains may often
be removed entirely from an other
wise clean tablecloth by pouring boil
ing water through the stain; but many
scalded fingers have resulted from the
process. Almost always, too, the wet
spot spreads in the linen; making a
good deal of ironing necessary before
that cloth is fit for the table again.
Keep a pair of wooden embroidery
hoops in the china closet and when a
spot is to be scalded out of the table
cloth, fit the hoops over and under the
cloth around the spot as for embroider
ing. Then hold the hoop at one edge
and pour the hot water through. Only
the section of linen inclosed by the
hoops will become wet and this may be
pressed out in a jiffy.
What Women Know.
For mixing cake and pastry an old
marble slab or a piece of plate glass is
better than a board.
To induce the canary to take a bath,
sprinkle a few seeds upon the water.
This added attraction will make the
bath become a habit.
To stop hiccoughs give the patient a
teaspoonful of granulated sugar and!
vinegar. If this, does not afford in
stant relief, repeat the dose.
Z What more efficacious instru- I V' jnf Vj-h-. ? . I
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There is nothing soft or especially
graceful about the fan of eagle quills,
but these fans are considered very
smarj Just now and come in various'
dainty colors, in white and in a
speckled, brownish effect. The fan
Knitting Bag- Is Plain and
Business Like.
Sateen Carrier Is Spacious Enouich
to Keep Several Pieces of Knit
ting;. Sweater, sock or Helmet.
SEVERELY plain and business-like
In shape is this practical knitting
bag for war time. Its coloring will
appeal to "every patriiotic knitter. The
strip of sateen which makes the left
end of the bag is red. the center strip
white and the strip at the right blue.
Stars, cut from the blue sateen, are
buttonholed to the whtte sateen strips,
one at each side of the bag, and the
handles are of blue cord.
The bag is lined with white sateen,
and in its capacious depths may be
kept several pieces of work, so that
one may knit busily on sweater, sock
or helmet as the mood suggests.'
Economy Brings Revival of Lace.
Henri Bendel, the Fifth-avenue "cou
turier, writing in the December issue
of Harper's Bazar, makes the following
fo'recast:
"This is a season when the mode ac
knowledges the supremacy of old lace.
Of course, real lace is always more or
less 'fashionable.' though 'for the last
few years it has not been used so ex
tensively. But now as a wartime econ
omy women have gone to their treasure
chests and brought out their old laces
from their wrappings of blue tissue pa
per. In fact, these exquisite laces are
being used so recklessly that, by the
time Palm Beach days are here, we will
find whole frocks made of real lace.
And such a frock will be absolutely
priceless for it is. doubtful if these
wonderful laces of the past can ever be
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l Truly Patriotic Kaittinc Bag.
a.......................
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picture
white and the long, sharp
quills arc mounted on mother o' pearl
sticks. The eagle feather fan is usual
ly elongated e.t one side, which gives il
a dashing line that emphasizes it
smartness.
produced again, as the devastation ot
Relirmm lias all but destroyed the art.'
Itching Burning
For Twenty Years
In Pimples and Blisters. Lost
Months of Time and Sleep. One
50-cent Box of Cuttcura Ointment
and One 25-cent Ca fce Soap Healed.
"I had blood poison and afterwards
it would break out somewhere, but
mostly on my neck every summer when
1 was overheated. I he
breaking out was in pim
ples and blisters with in
tense itching- and burning,
and I could not help
scratching. I lost months
of time and sleep.
"For twenty years I was
never free from the itching
and huminsr. I saw an
advertisement for Cuticura so I bought
a cake of Cuticura Soap and a box of
Cuticura Ointment, and I was completely
healed." (Signed) T. I. Bradley, R.3,
Box 1 T.,San Diego, Calif., Feb. 21, '17.
.When Cuticura has cleared yourskin
of pimples and redness keep it clear by
using the Soap assisted by the Ointment
for every-day toilet purposes. Abso
lutely nothing better.
For Free Sample Each by Return
Mail address post-card: "Cuticura,
Dept. H, Boston." Sold everywhere.
Soap 25c. Ointment 25 and 50c
A Single Application Will
Banish Objectionable Hairs
(Aids to Beauty.)
Here is a home treatment for remov
ing hairs that is quick, painless and
Inexpensive: With some powdered dela
tone and water make enough paste to
thickly cover the objectionable hairs,
apply, and after two or three min
utes rub off. wash the skin and it will
be left soft, clear and hairless. This
treatment will not mar the skin, but
to avoid disappointment be careful to
get real delatone.-" Adv.
is
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