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About The Sunday Oregonian. (Portland, Ore.) 1881-current | View Entire Issue (Dec. 2, 1917)
THE ' SUNDAY OltEGOXIAN, PO RTLi AXD, DECE3IBER 2, 1917. four honors in " one hand, 72,- and, it being the rubber game, the rubber bonus, 250. Still, as it developed, the fault was not entirely Y's, as if Z had not made an error regarding dummy's discards, they still could have retrieved themselves and gone game. The play involves some quite Inter esting situations, and I give it in full: MODERN FEATHER FANS WITH THREE LONG UNCURLED OSTRICH PLUMES ADD TO BEAUTY By No Means "Vain as a Peacock" Is Wielder of Peacock Fan; She Is Merely Very Modish and Up to Date Fans for Theater and Restaurant Use Are Pretty Little Affairs Which Fold Up and Fit in Bag. BEWITCHING, DAINTY FANS ENHANCE BEAUTY OF ANY WOMAN; EAGLE FEATHERS SMART Debutante's Lacey Affair, Not Made to Stir Breeze, Is Weapon for Coquette; Soft Pale Yellow Feather Fan, With Wide Spread, Adds to Charm of Brunette Type. Trick. A Y B Z 1 4 9 Q A 3 4 6 , 9 S. 24 5o 7 84' 4 64 10 A4 2 5 K 104 8 J 6... 10V J 3 2 7 "v: 6 VJ4 6 7 8 9 i 34 A4 9 K 3 " 4 84 10 J 4 . 2 A 11 6 Ko . 74 Q4 12 6 7 - Q 6 13 8 10 K 9 Denotes winner of trick. 11 75 - ' p : A - "Jri I ?vfY V 11 4 - . a - "A w " it - r p0. ) f . ' . -v w ? -' - ' THERE are two prime instruments of flirfation which femininity knows how to wield instinctively without a lesson. One is the fan, the other the parasol, and here is a fan that partakes of the nature of both. It is one of the very modern feather fans with three long uncurled ostrich plumes mounted on a handle, or "stick." of imitation ivory. ' At the end of the handle is a bracelet by means of which the fan may be carried at the wrist if desired. This fan is in shades of blue and accompanies a dance frock of blue and silver tulle. By no means "vain as a peacock" is the wielder of a peacock fan; she is merely very modish and up to date and most probably she is a young matron who adores dashing and rather daring effects that would not be permitted a debutante. The vivid, iridescent col oring of the peacock feathers make; such a fan harmonious with almost any type of evening gown. This handsome fan, with its blue and green and silver shimmer, is the only note of color in a spangled white dinner costume. Fans for theater and restaurant use are pretty little affairs of spangled net which fold up fiat and gt in the theater bag along with the opera glasses and other belongings. A very dainty fan of the sort is of dawn pink Bilk gauze spangled in silver and edged with Hon iton point. The sticks are of carved Hniil HAVING dwelt at more or less length upon the value of the overcall or take-out, and the conditions under which it should be made, I give today a few concrete ex amples in illustration of the same. A player has called no trumps, his left-hand adversary has passed and his partner holds, we will say, hearts 10. 7, 4, 3; clubs, jack, 10; diamonds, queen; spades, 9. S, 6, 5, 3, 2. Before the day of take-outs he would have' had no means of informing his partner, the no-trump bidder, as to his special hold ing, and the hand doubtless would have been played at no trumps with ex tremely bad results. As it is he makes the overcall of "two spades." Whether his hand has generaH strength or weak ness the partner cannot determine, but what he does know is that he holds a certain minimum strength in spades, the suit he has called. Guided by this inference and knowing that, as a rule, a hand scores as well or better at a major suit than at no trumps, he is in position intelligently to determine his future course; that is, whether to let the overcall stand or persist in his no trump. Another example: Third player's holding Is hearts, queen, jack, 10; clubs, king, 10; diamcid.s, ace, king; spades, 9, 8, 6, 5, 3, 2. Here there is excellent help for a no-trumper, but the rule is absolute and admits of few. if any, exceptions. It reads thus: Take your partner out of no trumps with a major suit when you hold five or more cards in the suit without regard to the size of the cards or the rest of the hand. Again, therefore, "two spades" should be called. Still another example: The holding in this case is hearts 7; clubs, jack, 4. ?: diamonds. 9, 8. 6, 2; spades, ace, king, jack, 7, 4. This hand holds de cided strength in spades, but no help otherwise for the no trump. "Two spades" should be called. Again: Third player holds " hearts ace; clubs, queen. 7, 3; diamonds, king, . . J !';"vr- I ''J J ' J? J ' wood tinted with pale pink to match tie theater fan, its possessor can make the fan. Though there is nothing im- I it express a number of fascinating fem pressive or distinguished about the lit- I inine moods. queen, 5, 4; spades, ace, king, jack, 7, 4. An ideal hand as a no-trump as sist, but, as it contains five spades, I'two spades" should be called. Concrete Example Shown. Let .us .go back to the first and -third examples, substituting spades for a minor suit, diamonds or clubs, and the minor suit for spades. The first hold ing would be as follows: Hearts. 10, 7. 4. 3; clubs, jack, 10; diamonds (we will say), 9, 8, 6, 5, S, 2; spades, queen. The other: Hearts, 7; clubs, jack, 4, 3; diamonds, ace. king, jack, 7, 4; spades. 9, 8, 6. 2. Both of these hands are without help for a no-trumper. but they contain the requisite strength in diamonds to justify the overcall, so "two diamonds" should be called. Now, let us go back to the second and fourth examples, again substitut ing spades for diamonds and diamonds for spades. One of these hands would be: Hearts, queen, jack, 10; clubs, king, 10; diantonds. 9, 8, 6, 5, 3, 2; spades, ace. king. The other: Hearts, ace; clubs, queen, 7. 3; diamonds, ace, king, jack, 7, 4; spades, king, queen, 5, 4. In both cases there is decided help for the no-trumper, therefore no over call should be made, notwithstanding that the diamond suit possesses the strength requisite to the overcall. The no-trump bid possessing a value con siderably in excess of a minor suit, such hands should be used as no-trump assists. Two conditions are necessary to the overcall in a minor suit lack of help for a no trump and a certain minimum strength in the suit named. The overcall in a major suit is made when holding five or more cards of the suit, regardless of tha rest of the hand, whether it be strong or weak. Try and get the distinction. Let us take the following: Third hand holds, we will say, hearts 10, 7, 4, 3; clubs, jack, 10; diamonds, 8. 6, 5. 3. 2; spades, queen, 9. The hand is absolutely without help for a no trumper, nevertheless the diamonds are too weak to justify the overcall and none should be made. Substitute an honor for one of the small dia 4, TJ'iirijfcrtfriWfltiniflir'r,rf'Tfti'iiT-i- monds, and "two diamonds" should be called. Another example: Hearts. 10, 7. 4, 3; clubs, queen; diamonds, jack. 10, 3, 2; spades, 9, 8, B, 5. The hand could hardly be worse as a no-trump assist, yet the holder has no redress, and, for all he can do", the no-trump bid must stand. Suit I KualJr Prevails. When the overcall is made, espe cially, when made in a major suit, it is iuite likely the no-trump bid will oe abandoned and the suit will stand. It must therefore possess sufficient strength to promise at least fairly good results in case this happens, or it should not be made. In the case Just given, as loss seems inevitable, it is better that the hand be played at a one-trick contract, which the no trump calls for. than at the , two-trick con tract which the overcall would neces sarily entail. As is seen, cases can easily arise where a band is too weak to jus tify the overcall and where calm ac ceptance of defeat rather than an ef fort . to thwart, it by running into greater danger still is decidedly the better policy. The following hand illustrates the folly of not making the overcall when one's hand not only justifies its being done, but absolutely demands it: , 9 10 7 4 3 J 10- K Q.J 10 5 4 " Q 8 5 K Q 2 7 4 3 A 7 6 K 10 H J 8 6 5 K 9 6 2 3 A J 7 2 A 9 A Q 8 5 9 8 2 Z, the dealer, having three suits pro tected, bid no trumps. A passes; like wise Y and B. Why Y, with such an exceptional holding in spades, six to four honors (this of itself insuring- an nonor score oi z and no help other wise for a no-trumper, should pass can only be attributed to complete igno rance of, or utter indifference to. the inherent principles of the game. How ever, the hand was played at no trumps, with the result that Z-Y scored two by cards, 20. and 30 for honors. In all "50. At spades they would easily have scored 358 four by cards. 36; Heart Are Ied. Trick 1 A, having three suits of four cards each, each headed by a sin gle hinor, is in some doubt as to his lead, but finally decides upon hearts. Z wins the trick and at Tricks 2. 3 and 4 leads his partner's suit, spades. Y, who sees dummy Is without visible re-entry, wisely holds up the command of the suit until third round, when all, save dummy's, are exhausted. Trick . 5 Y returns the 8 of hearts, the highest he holds of his partner's suit; taken by A with king, Z having put up jack. A. at Trick 6. leads the 10 of hearts, the best, and at Trick 7 leads his remaining heart, both with the desire to place the lead and thinking it an even chance that his partner holds the command. . Trick 8 Z. who is again in the lead, now sees that in discarding dummy's 10 of diamonds on trick 5 he made a serious mistake. Having discarded the 10, it was all right to discard the jack on the next round. The mistake was in discarding the diamonds at all. Had he not done so, but discarded rather from clubs, he could easily have made the dummy's jack of diamonds a card of re-entry, and the spades would have been brought in. He would simply have led his 8 of diamonds, on which, if left-hand adversary had not put up the king, he would have played dum my's 10. This would have held the trick, thus enabling him to make his spades of forced the king. In this event Z would have recovered the lead on the next round and led another small diamond, putting dummy In with jack. Z was actuated in his diamond discard by the desire to keep dummy's clubs intact, as he himself could offer so little protection in the suit. As it is. the better to establish the diamonds in his own hand, he leads the diamond ace and follows, at Trick 9, with the eight of diamonds. Recovering the lead at Trick 10, he makes his queen and five of diamonds, and the thirteenth trick goes to B. with king of clubs. Inch Cut From Tablecloth Lengthens Life. Small Strip Taken From Each of Two Sides Will Brine Crease Made by Laniirnw. Who Always Koldx End to End. In Mew Place. AN inch off one side of a large tablecloth matters very little when the cloth is spread on the table; and the pattern in the damask need not be pulled to one side, since the slight dis crepancy of length in the part of the cloth that hangs over the edge will never be noticed. But thatnch makes all the difference in the world in the life of the cloth. Before the threads begin to wear thin as they always do in time where a tablecloth is folded and creased in the ironing cut off an inch at one side, and at one end, and re hem the cloth. The .laundress, who al ways folds a cloth evenly. edge to edge, will now make an entirely new series of folds and creases with her iron and the tablecloth will last Just that much longer. Quilted Petticoats of Crepe de Chine Popular. Glovrskln Cloth frocks Mow the Rase In Paris Hnbbed Hair Ef fect ' I sed Extensively In Siew York After Beinnr Introduced by Molla UJnrstedt. UIDER frocks of black velvet Pequin is using quilted petticoats of white crepe de chine a charmingly quaint, old-fashioned effect to be sure. Of course.'the velvet skirt is slashed gen erously to reveal the presence of the quilted pett-oat one such skirt hang ing in loose panels over the white pet ticoat of quilted crepe. Another cou turier uses white satin as a lining for velvet draperies, looping the velvet in such manner' that the white shows in glimpses here and there. Gloveskln cloth frocks are extremely popular in Paris this Winter. They are made very simply, with almost no. New Boudoir Caps Worn to Fit High Coiffure. Hair Is Mow Ileitis Done II lit B After Krench Kaxhlon, With Soft Knot Airily and Klufflly Piled on Head. WHEN milady rests among the cush ions of her chaise longue between social engagements she wears her bou doir cap so that the beautifully waved and netted structure of her coiffure may not be disarranged. Just now the hair is being done high, after the French fashion, the soft knot so airy and fluffy that it appears to be loosely and lightly piled on the head in the most careless manner possible. But adroitly placed hairpins and an invisible net holds it firmly in place, nevertheless. This rest cap is made of white crepe de chine and lace insertions, with a frill of plisse net below the ribbon-run casing that fits around the head. Little tucks in the crepe de chine where it joins the lace insertion add a pretty touch of ornamentation. r. it J W ": $ ' V 1 I " ' " t 1. . v- , . - I i n It t IL1 j I WmwmwmsmC aaaaa g unit. I I Boudoir Capa fit High Coiffure. I II II N s ' - V.-.' 'V--'"4-, ' T'SyK I'-J ' r v f x ' t I - t J . - . I - ' r I- M - . KAN and two eyes above What more efficacious instru ment for the bewitchment of man? This particular instrument is of exquisite point lace, mounted on sticks of mother o' pearl a debutante's dainty fan. not calculated to give an extraor dinary amount of breeze, but unsur passed as a weapon of coquetry. Such a fan. of course, will accompany a love ly white frock, touched perhaps with the glint of silver lace. With her head against the soft fluffiness of a feather fan any woman looks prettier than she really is par ticularly if the color of the fan is chosen to set off her complexion; hair and eyes. This pale yellow fan makes an enchanting background for a dark haired and dark-eyed woman: and so great is the spread of the fan that one doubts not many a flirtation is carried on behind its sheltering wing. trimming at all. the richness of the fabric offering the distinctive quality. A model in doeskin colored gloveskin cloth Is trimmed -with beaver and is accompanied by a smart black' velvet hat. A pearl gray model may be ac companied by black fox furs;" a mid night blue gloveskin costume is most lovely with chinchilla. A stranger in Manhattan might con clude that all the young women had had their hair bobbed this season to give a more boyish look with military costumes. But after one has noted the same pretty maid with apparently bobbed tresses of a morning, and a beautifully waved and high-piled coif fure at dinner hour. the conviction comes that this new hair dressing is achieved in some other manner than by use of clipping shears. As a matter of fact, the hair is not cut at all. but is rolled under at the level of the ears and then covered with a net. Miss Molla Bjurstedt, the famous tennis player, wore her hair this way all last Sum mer and the bobbed effect was attrac tively neat, becoming and business like as she flitted about the court. Embroidery Hoop Helps in Removing Stains. Kitted Over Spot In Tablecloth, Wooden Rings Prevent Scalding of Hands as Hot Water Is I'onred ThrouKh Linen. COFFEE and fruit stains may often be removed entirely from an other wise clean tablecloth by pouring boil ing water through the stain; but many scalded fingers have resulted from the process. Almost always, too, the wet spot spreads in the linen; making a good deal of ironing necessary before that cloth is fit for the table again. Keep a pair of wooden embroidery hoops in the china closet and when a spot is to be scalded out of the table cloth, fit the hoops over and under the cloth around the spot as for embroider ing. Then hold the hoop at one edge and pour the hot water through. Only the section of linen inclosed by the hoops will become wet and this may be pressed out in a jiffy. What Women Know. For mixing cake and pastry an old marble slab or a piece of plate glass is better than a board. To induce the canary to take a bath, sprinkle a few seeds upon the water. This added attraction will make the bath become a habit. To stop hiccoughs give the patient a teaspoonful of granulated sugar and! vinegar. If this, does not afford in stant relief, repeat the dose. Z What more efficacious instru- I V' jnf Vj-h-. ? . I it!, t- . . 1 ") J fc.v- jrw- v.. . jx -.i - There is nothing soft or especially graceful about the fan of eagle quills, but these fans are considered very smarj Just now and come in various' dainty colors, in white and in a speckled, brownish effect. The fan Knitting Bag- Is Plain and Business Like. Sateen Carrier Is Spacious Enouich to Keep Several Pieces of Knit ting;. Sweater, sock or Helmet. SEVERELY plain and business-like In shape is this practical knitting bag for war time. Its coloring will appeal to "every patriiotic knitter. The strip of sateen which makes the left end of the bag is red. the center strip white and the strip at the right blue. Stars, cut from the blue sateen, are buttonholed to the whtte sateen strips, one at each side of the bag, and the handles are of blue cord. The bag is lined with white sateen, and in its capacious depths may be kept several pieces of work, so that one may knit busily on sweater, sock or helmet as the mood suggests.' Economy Brings Revival of Lace. Henri Bendel, the Fifth-avenue "cou turier, writing in the December issue of Harper's Bazar, makes the following fo'recast: "This is a season when the mode ac knowledges the supremacy of old lace. Of course, real lace is always more or less 'fashionable.' though 'for the last few years it has not been used so ex tensively. But now as a wartime econ omy women have gone to their treasure chests and brought out their old laces from their wrappings of blue tissue pa per. In fact, these exquisite laces are being used so recklessly that, by the time Palm Beach days are here, we will find whole frocks made of real lace. And such a frock will be absolutely priceless for it is. doubtful if these wonderful laces of the past can ever be .1 I ,-- v ! f7 : i ;f .... : l Truly Patriotic Kaittinc Bag. a....................... J for picture white and the long, sharp quills arc mounted on mother o' pearl sticks. The eagle feather fan is usual ly elongated e.t one side, which gives il a dashing line that emphasizes it smartness. produced again, as the devastation ot Relirmm lias all but destroyed the art.' Itching Burning For Twenty Years In Pimples and Blisters. Lost Months of Time and Sleep. One 50-cent Box of Cuttcura Ointment and One 25-cent Ca fce Soap Healed. "I had blood poison and afterwards it would break out somewhere, but mostly on my neck every summer when 1 was overheated. I he breaking out was in pim ples and blisters with in tense itching- and burning, and I could not help scratching. I lost months of time and sleep. "For twenty years I was never free from the itching and huminsr. I saw an advertisement for Cuticura so I bought a cake of Cuticura Soap and a box of Cuticura Ointment, and I was completely healed." (Signed) T. I. Bradley, R.3, Box 1 T.,San Diego, Calif., Feb. 21, '17. .When Cuticura has cleared yourskin of pimples and redness keep it clear by using the Soap assisted by the Ointment for every-day toilet purposes. Abso lutely nothing better. For Free Sample Each by Return Mail address post-card: "Cuticura, Dept. H, Boston." Sold everywhere. Soap 25c. Ointment 25 and 50c A Single Application Will Banish Objectionable Hairs (Aids to Beauty.) Here is a home treatment for remov ing hairs that is quick, painless and Inexpensive: With some powdered dela tone and water make enough paste to thickly cover the objectionable hairs, apply, and after two or three min utes rub off. wash the skin and it will be left soft, clear and hairless. This treatment will not mar the skin, but to avoid disappointment be careful to get real delatone.-" Adv. is ,4