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kxtern UotherAflg ttTakm wnusec 3av A
iiflfz Praise for the "Liberty
Clothes 99 Now the Fashion
r --
Promising Finer Figures
for Women But James
Montgomery Flagg Says
1L vvim
BY NINA CARTER.
WOMEO clothes have been de
bated since the beginning of
time. Beyond a doubt Adam
found fault with Eve's. Or he may
have' admired her taste. The certain
thing is that he made remarks.
Men do not agree about women's
clothes. But, then, neither do women.
Women's clothes will continue to the
end of time to be noticed, talked about,
wrangled about.
Every change of style brings fresh
phases of dispute.
Once the corset distressed the souls
of the solicitous. Nobody talks of
them any more; Once the length of
skirts was a matter of grave import.
Teople have forgotten such matters
or content themselves with saying, as
a man did the other day, "Length of
kirts? They have no length."
The truth is that the clothes of
women never ranged so freely and so
iwidely the whole gamut of beauty and
of comfort. Yes, women have begun
to insist on being comfortable. Their
clothes, inside and out, hang from the
shoulders in most Instances. Their
waist Is free. Short lengths give them
a free walk. Greek, dancing fashions
have taught them to admire the ele
mental garb that once would have
shocked. The beauty and health of the
figure rather than the flummeries of
the clothes themselves now begin to
seem like a genuine ideal.
Fashion's Liberty of Choice.
When disputes or silences happen we1
go to the artists to find out-where we
are "at." They growl or they exclaim
with pleasure, according to the testi
mony. I believe they try to be hon
est as honest as men can be when
they are discussing anything of in
terest to women. So I have discussed
the question with various prominent
artists.
Mr. Salvatore F. Bilotti. whose
beautiful sculpture is well known to
lovers of art, took occasion to give
ihlgb praise to the American girl's fig
ure. This is what Mr. Bilotti says:
"In speaking of the American woman
as having the best figure in the world
at the present time, I mean the young
women, who, with a few exceptions,
liave grown up during the past four
years. The young girl who went into
the fashionable clothes of a grown
up or a semi-grownup woman four
years ago has had the wonderful ad
vantage to develop that her sisters of
years before that, owing to the then
(prevailing fashions, missed.
"If you remember, 15 years ago, and
even 10, the style demanded high bust,
long-pointed waist, large hips and long
skirts. Add to this the high collar
then prevalent, and you have the
human form so- imprisoned that there
Is no chance for nature to do her
work. The flesh was shoved here and
there by the corsets, the limbs had no
freedom of movement, the throat was
compressed by a tight collar. Really,
such clothes were instruments of tor
ture, and the result was an abnormal
figure and usually a weak woman.
"Then came a step that led to the
shorter skirt, but the same long and
high corsets were in vogue, the shoes
that were introduced had straight,
rather slender heels, set at the wrong
point of the foot, and threw even the
woman with a most graceful carriage
off her balance. The waist had in
creased slightly in width, from the
narrow, wasplike affair that had
shoved the flesh upward and down to
the hips, but still the diaphram was
compressed. Where the women in
those styles breathed from I don't
know, for all natural expansion in
natural places seemed cut off.
Coming of the Shorter Skirt.
"Up to four years ago fashion was
wavering. It didn't know Just what
next to do. It had pinched and
twisted and contorted until it seemed
Impossible to think of more torturing
Then suddenly there burst forth an
era of fashion that parried its follow
ers to just the reverse extreme.
Women no longer ruined the hair by
use of curling irons and curling pa
pers. The fashion of straight hair
came In, and with it very short skirts,
low corsets, low necks, and then, thank
goodness, French-heeled shoes.
"As a result of this change you have
in the young girls who had not been
following the fashions before that time
wonderful specimens of womanhood,
and even in those who had pandered to
the fads,, both inartistic and unwhole
some, you find a vast improvement.
Let us hope that the present fashions
remain in vogue in their important
fundamentals forever."
Praise for American Grace,
Alexander Zeitlin came to America
nhortlv after the beginning of the war
Mr. Zeitlin is a sculptor of wide reputa
tion in Paris and during the short time
lie has been in this country his work
has received much attention. This
sculptor's work rjns in very happy
lines. In his portraits he interprets
the smile of the person he is portray
ine more than the heavier and more se
rious moods. In his figure work he has
a touch of daintiness not made weak
by lack of technique, and his fountain
figure recently made from an American
model Is a good example of this style
of Mr. Zeitlin's.
"So you want me to tell you what
I think of the women of this country,
do you?" replied Mr. Zeitlin to a ques
ART CIRCLES STILL STIRRED
OVER 'STAR-SPANGLED BANNER'
(Continued From First Pane.)
of this present crisis in art and history
could never have been Imagined In a
reasonable thinking country. It may
be that "The Star - Spangled Banner"
does not lie easily within the compass
of the voice for singing by the masses,
but it is a glorious and noble outburst,
a true tonal and word picture of just
what it symbolizes and what Is a Na
tional hymn if not a symbol?
It seems rather a pity that the Gov
ernment should have been influenced
to the extent of calling together a body
of musicians to make any sort of "ver
sion." It may be, however, that this
decision comes as a mere desire to
standardize it, so that it will never
again be arranged according to the
fancy of the player, as in the case of
Dr. Muck's performance on Thursday
night, when the violins were embroid
ered into it in the same manner as the
toacchanale figure is worked Into the
Pilgrims' chorus In "Tannhausen" Those
v lusi
tion. "Well, I cannot tell you in three
words.
"One thing that has greatly im
pressed me is the women's grace, and it
has undoubtedly been highly brought
out by the new style of dancing that
I see" has been in vogue here for some
time past. Take the interpretative
dance, for Instance. This no longer
belongs to the professional world alone.
It has been taken up and made a fad of
by society, which has proved society
very wise, indeed. This free dancing
has done much to develop not only the
form, but grace and a keen sense of
rhythm.
"No one can do one of these dances
in a corset, hence the corset has been
abandoned in many instances, or when
worn at all Is the merest excuse for
such a thing, and supplies only the
necessary support for clothes.
"These Corsets leave the diaphragm
free and the women are breathing as
their maker meant them to breathe.
This means chest and throat develop
ment, and, though the American woman
has always been noted for her beautiful
neck, It is more beautiful than ever
now.
"I have never seen such freedom In
walking. The short skirts have much
to do with this. The step can be
springy and wide, not mincing, as
though one were not able to walk well.
"All In all, the fashions of the pres
ent day are working a very great good,
and I know all who have artistic sense
hope they will not be soon overthrown
by some finicky, foolish twist that Is
going to undo all tne good that has
been accomplished."
But now comes the skeptic If you
think for a minute that you are going
to get Montgomery Flagg to agree that
all is rose-colored, you are mistaken.
Mr. Flagg has been drawing girls for
a good many years and knows the girl
proposition from A to Z. Being a mod
est man Mr. Flagg does not boast of
knowing much of women as women,
any more than thousands of other men
would dare say that they know "wom
an," not at all.
"Don't tell me," said Mr. Flagg, and
It sounded almost threatening; "don't
tell me that women are going to remain
sensibly dressed for any length of time.
Don't tell me that they are going to
give their digestive organs a real
chance to make them strong, for the
first thing you know they will succumb
to the fad of banting if it Is the style
to be thin. They will get themselves
111 by rich foods if it Is the style to
be large, they will pinch In their waists
or let them out or do anything that
the time wants them to do. Anything
they think will make them attractive
to men. Half of the time they don't
know how ridiculous they are making
themselves look.
Mr. Flagg Is Skeptical.
"But," Mr. Flagg was asked, "are
there not some women who are sane
and sensible? Have not our clothes of
today done something toward making
women better formed?"
"Perhaps, perhaps," said Mr. Flagg
half grudgingly; then he added em
phatically, "But it will not last, so
what's the use talking about it?"
Now what are you going to do with
a man who won't give you a concrete
expression? Just keep on asking ques
tions until he qoes; so Air. Flagg was
asked:
"Do you think that modern dancing
has done anything for the women?"
Mr. Flagg looked disgusted, and then
said wearily: i
"I'm so tired of seeing pictures of
women floating around 'twixt heaven
and earth arrayed In a piece of bath
towel that I can't express what I feel,
but" was he going to say something
favorable at last? He was. "But the
dancing has given the women more
grace, and I dare say has developed
them along rather good lines. But It
won't last they'll Just up and do some
thing to upset all the good they have
been doing.
The Eternal Dlacnaalon.
"There has never 'been an age In
which women's clotnes have not been
discussed. I dare say that back in the
old Greek times there was fault found.
Besides, I don't believe flowing gar
ments were any more becoming to all
the women then than they would be
now. Of course, it is far preferable
that women should wear corsets that
let them breathe as they do today than
that they should wear affairs that they
useq to affect. I don t like the over
athletic woman, the mannish woman.
I don't like the Lydia Languish
type. I like the sensible, well
balanced woman who dresses always in
moderation, who does not run to ex
tremes in styles, and I think you will
find that all men save the jaded old or
young fellows like the healthy, sane
woman.
"Yes. I must admit that if mind
you, I say 'if the styles last and the
women become sensible they will give
us a strong generation of older women
and they will be better formed but,
as I have said before it won't last."
And Mr. Flagg shook his head and
sighed in resignation -before turning
to add some of his bold, free strokes
to the figure of a young girl in a short
Greek dancing dress that he was draw
ing. But all artists-are not skeptics and
I may report that most of them are
convinced that the Venus figure has a
better chance of coming since "Liberty
Clothes" came in than It ever had be
fore. commissioned into this service, are Wal
ter Damrosch, John Philip Sousa, O. G.
Sonneck, formerly musical librarian of
Washington, D. C; Messrs. Smith and
Earhart, who will establish an orches
tration and band arrangement which
will be accepted as the standard and
which must always be used, instead of
leaving it to the Judgment of the public
at large. It Is at least to be hoped that
no violence will be done the simple
"Star-Spangled Banner," which has for
over 100 years thrilled those who love
it for what it is and for whom it stands
as patriotism stands above art, culture,
education and even home.
More serious is the condition of grand
opera, now that It has seemed neces
sary to eliminate all German works
from the repertory, but tnere is no
little talk and a growing demand for
Wagner in English. This does not
mean all German opera In English, al
though what more delightful Christmas
THE SUNDAY OREGOXIAX, . PORTLAND,
James Montgomery Flagg Likes
i' V t i Kt f V S 37;Si A ! i f " J i I
yx ' ' t . H :
:.,.y - J 1 1 : - j j .
A Typical Evening Gown of the Present
Fashion, Draped From the Shoulders
in Graceful Freedom.
offering has there ever been than
"Hansel and . Gretel," which has al
ready been given in English many
times by the Aborn forces with signal
success. That the Richard Strauss
works should be done In a language
which would make them understood by
the audience is unthinkable. This
country has not yet arrived t the cul
tural plane where "The Rose Cavalier"
ceases to offend the sensibilities, for
which reason we must deny ourselves
the musical joy which was dispensed
in the musical side. It is understood
that the direction of the Metropolitan
will be offered a petition from Ameri
can music lovers to give some of the
Wagner works in English. If there
be any of our own English-speaking
singers who object to a restudy many
could be found who will be willing
and able to sing the roles.
The engagement at the Metropolitan
of Louise Homer, announced this week,
will restore an artist whose presence
will go far toward making English
Wagner productions possible. Mme.
Fremstad, Mme. Matzenauer, Florence
to Draw Pictures Like This When Romantic Illustration Gives
Sensible Clothes (Such as They Are
vN J - 1 i ! yi 1
The Free Flow of Modern Drapery Is The Lithe
Well Illustrated in This Evening Gown
Picture of Norma Talmadge.
Easton, Lila Robeson. Julia Claussen
are all figures in the operatic world
who could deliver Wagner as well in
English as in any other language.
With much German. music out of the
way one might expect that the artists
who supply the musical pabulum to this
country would turn to French works as
never before, instead of which there is
a strong tendency In musical circles
to do away with French music alto
gether. This attitude is brought about
"by the really exorbitant price asked by
the agents or those claiming authority
in behalf of the Association of French
Composers and Authors. In- a day like
this where the burdens of concert giv
ing have grown so great that one mar
vels at the courage of any one to enter
the field, it is much easier to leave
out such works as can be performed
only "by arrangement with the associa
tion, etc.," said arrangements to be the
payment of anything from J10 to J25
and more. America has done herself
proud In the dissemination of French
music There are few cities in the
NOVEMBER 25, 1917.
Now Wearing Very Long
country where the music, as well as
the names of Debussy. Ravel, D'Indy,
Duparc. Dubois. Saint Saens, Chausson,
Chabrier, are unknown, and the pro
gramme is considered as Incomplete
when French masters do not figure
strongly. But the old and homely
idiom of killing the goose that lays the
golden egg is very near the surface at
the present time, and the powers
eager to establish a lasting relation
between this country and the art of
France were never In a stronger posi
tion to do so than now when of neces
sity, German music will be reduced to
a minimum on all programmes. In all
studios, on every stage in the country
that offered the greatest outlet that
country ever knew.
m
The return of Alice Nielsen to the
light opera stage brought out an au
dience at the first performance that for
brilliancy and size seemed more like
the opening of the opera season. "Kitty
Darlin'." based upon the David Belasco
play, "Sweet Kitty Bellalre." brought
tie noted stage manager into the musi
Him the Excuse But He Is
Without Being in Danger of a Kelapse.
Modern Figure as Sculptured
by Salvatore Bilotti.
cal production made by Otto Harbach
and Rudolf Frimi. both men having
done hotter work. But as a medium for
Miss Nielsen and for the sort of staging
always to be expected from Belasco
"Kitty Dnrlin'" at the Casino is attrac
tive. Miss Nielsen's singing and acting
are always of the highest and most re
fined types and she retains all of the
personal charm which has made her
dear to the music lovers of every coun
try in which she has appeared. Sidonic
Espero In a part much smaller than
her talents deserve, made an emphatic
"hit" both in her singing and by her
very marked beauty. Edwin Stevens is
one of the rare old school comedians
and lends most of the humor to the
play. Another favorite. Glen Hall, is
noted in the capable list of singing
actors' cast for this production.
The Metropolitan Opera Company an
nounced a brilliant week beginning
last Monday night: following the ne
cessity to change arrangements things
have been resumed as usual at. the
Metropolitan where they are planning
many revivals not anticipated prior to
TOOT
Sure That Women Won't Wear
the decision to eliminate German opera.
The opening night, as has been already
announced, had its brilliancy height
ened by Verdi"s ever favorite "Aida"
with Caruso. Muzio, Matzenauer, and
Amato in thir well-known roles. Ma
rie Sundelius. as the Priestess. Basil
Ruysdael as the King, and Jose Mar
dones as "Kamfis." Robert Moranzoni
was the conductor, this being his initial
performance with the Metropolitan. In
place of "Tristan and Isolde, which
was to have ben performed the fol
lowing Wednesday night. "Boris Godou-
noff will be sung by Matzenauer. re
placing Ober, Sophie Braslau, Lenora
Sparkes, Kathleen Howard. Marie Matt-
feld and Mme. nidur, Althouse. Rothier.
De Segurola, Bada and others, under
direction of G. I'api. Thursday evening
will mark the preser.ee or Frieda
Hempel in her great role of "Adina"
with Caruso. Scotti. Lenora Sparkes,
Dldur, and others who have made no
table Donizetti's delightful "L'EUsir d'
Amore." Friday night will be note
worthy for the first appearance of John
McOormack as a member of the Metro
politan Opera Company, who will sing
the part of "Rudolfo" in "La Boheme"
to the "Mimi" of Mme. Alda. Another
feature of interest upon this occasion
will be the first appearance of Ruth
Miller, an American soprano, in the
part of "Musetta." Another American
artist also appearing for the first time
with the Metropolitan Opera Company
Is Thomas Chalmers, who will Jo,n De
Lucca and De Segurola in the famous
Boheme quartet. Others In this cast
are Mire. Leonhardt, Malatesta and
Reschiglian. with Papi conducting.
Saturday afternoon' there will be a
newly staged presentation of Gounod's
"Faust." in which Geraldine Farrar will
sing "Marguerite," Martinelli will ap
pear in the title role and Rothier will
sing "Mephistopheles." Others named
in this performance are Raymonde.
Delaunois, Kathleen Howard. Amato as
"Valentine." and the performance will
be conducted by Pierre Monteaux. The
new stage setting for this opera has
been made by Ordynski. The Walpurgis
Night Ballet will be restored and will
serve to present Rosina Galli and Bon
figlio. Saturday evening the first
popular offering will be made with
Mme. Hempel In her great role of "Vio
letta." Others to appear in "La Tra
viata" on Saturday night will be Car
pies' "Alfredo"; De Luca as "Giorgio
Germont." .and others, with Moranzoni
conducting.
m
Caruso arrived In New York Sunday
after a six months' tour through Ar
gentina and Brazil, where he received
the fabulous price of $6666 for each ap
pearance. He was to have sung 30 per
formances instead of which he sang 40.
He did not. however, devote his trip to
complete rest after the strenuous sea
son, but on this trip he studied the
operas of "Le Prophete" and "Love of
the Three Kings," in both of which he
will appear this season. He did not
know until Mr. Gatti-Casazza met him
at the pier, that he would sing "Aida"
on the opening night. In addition to
his own performances he sang at 13
concerts for the benefit of Italian war
sufferers, realizing $100,000. He was
deeply touched to learn the news from
Italy, which was received by wireless.
His eldest son, Rodolfo, aged 19, Is with
the Alpini at the front and Enrico, Jr.,
aged 15. is with the Boy Scouts.
m m m
Andreas de Segurola, the eminent
Spanish basso, of the Metropolitan
Opera Company, returned. Friday after
a brilliantly successful season in Mex
ico. De Segurola will resume his en
viable position at the Metropolitan,
where for a number of years he has
been a favorite.
-
Paul Althouse returned from a bril
liant concert tour to welcome little
Mary Elizabeth Althouse, who was not
in his home when he left. The Metro
politan Opera tenor and his charming
wife. Zabetta Brenska, the mezzo-soprano,
are receiving congratulations on
the birth of their little daughter, born
Saturday, October 20. Mr. Althouse
will fill a number of roles this season
which he has had in preparation for
some time. His first appearance at the
Metropolitan will be on Wednesday
evening when he will sing "Dimitri" i
"Boris Godounoff."